So, the easiest way to get a system installed in the CX-5 is to buy 2 things: 1st a LOC (wavetech linkdq). This will allow you to tap the subwoofer wires and spit them into two channels for the high level input on the wavetech. This will give you a perfect signal. #2: If you buy the Audio control/wavetech amplifier to avoid the loc, it will still clip at 0 gain without the linkdq (tried it). In my case, I have the mono amp to do roll-off correction and the linkdq to add any lost frequencies back into the signal and correct the over processing. Those overpriced shallow mount down firing kicker subs are not reliable and should be avoided (tried em). Option for a cheaper Skar subwoofer in a shallow, semi shallow or a full subwoofer if the space is available. These subs have absolutely great sound and have been battle tested for build quality and sound quality (be wise and avoid the hype from influencers). This is a budget sq/sql build. If you're going for an sq/sql build, you can accomplish this by adding two apps that will increase your highs and music quality as if you installed an aftermarket amp and new speakers. Poweramp and wavelet are trial based apps that allow for extreme processing (pretty much a free DSP and epicenter for 30 days). With the factory Bose setup, the apps, LOC, amp and Skar subwoofer you will have a great sq/sql quality sound build that didn't cost thousands of dollars. Thank me by making sure this information gets out there. I can personally attest to how beautiful this system sounds. I'm amazed every time I listen to my music and catch myself wanting to go anywhere just to play my setup. I love it so much that I upgraded to a VXF 12 and a 1500 watts amp, as well as built a 2400 watt complete skar surround system for my home in two rooms. Rule is: always buy too much power. (you can always turn it down but if you don't have enough you can't turn it up). You don't need either expensive amp and would be wise to buy a Skar or MD/Smart Taramps brand amplifier for less money (battle tested for quality and sound quality by me and all over UA-cam).
I really appreciate you making this video. I have a 2021 CX-5 and want to do exactly what you have done. You answered a lot of my questions with your own experiences. I even bought the kicker passive. I’m going to build my own box though. But the wiring is the thing I’ve been wondering about. Thanks
FOR THOSE WHO STILL CANT UNDERSTAND HOW TO GET THE RCA SIGNAL. I had the exact same issue as u and here is the FIX. Tap into the bose rear tire speaker and just unplug the rear speaker. (White-positive /brown-negative.) tie it to the line out converter. No need to take out the seat to access the stock amp . REMOTE WIRE - tap into the driver door lock fuse from fuse box under the steering wheel.pls like if this comment helped u.
you gotta gain match the remote knob at max and set gain on the amp then you can also make it that u use like 50% under 35 volume and increase it over so you can play louder and still get bass aswel
thx for the video. wife wanted more boom^2 in her Touring and she didn't want to sacrifice cargo space; so I went w/the JBL BassPro Nano. it should provide enough "boom" w/o interfering w/hauling stuff. Just looking for the best place to run the power wire into the cabin.
Dude, let the sub replace the stock sub....dont have the stock sub AND your sub connected. Thats all you want to do, is like remove stock and install new. When this happens the stock amplifier is no longer powering the lows right? Your amp is. So the stock amp is still pushing the same amount of watts but only to highs and mids....stereo will be louder! And sound much better too. Having the stock sub and your sub....its not optimal. YOull hear instruments better , more separation less flab.
The one mistake I see, the ScarAudio RP amp only has low voltage RCA inputs rated for 6V max. The Bose speaker output is probably over this voltage. This probably why all the gains/volume knob is turned all the way down, input signal is already maxing out the input allowed maximum of 6V. Need to get amplifier with "speaker level inputs", many amps have this feature. Speaker level input can handle the higher voltage driven to the sub vs. a head-unit RCA that max's out at say 4V. Also many have remote turn-on just based on speaker signal input, no need for remote wire. Although nothing wrong with a remote wire either. Otherwise I like the budget friendly factory install. Easy to remove as needed.
Nah, just get an LOC. Audio Controls LC2i with the rp1200. Thats what I did.... and a Skar SVR 8" sub. Sub is 400 watts....wired it at 4ohm so the amp was putting out 500 watts at 4ohms. Had the headroom...the low resistance...ran cool as sht in the summer....and i can just add another 8" and swwitch toi 2ohms..
@mrgrizz0672 Need to read the speciation sheet. It would state something like remote sense turn on, or say will turn on once it senses the audio signal present. Not all have, but it's getting more common LOCs have it too, like the Kicker 46KISLOC2 K-Series Stereo Line-Output Converter w/Remote Turn-On Output
@@mrgrizz0672 use Crutchfield as example, they have filters to sort power, mono, input. Alpine S2-A60M is one example, has everything you want....there are others. Edit. Remote sense only is on speaker inputs, which is normal.
Mines dpesnt have the paddle shifts like yours does. I also have the bose system but im going to put a 15 in mines with a skar 1kmono maybe the 800.1 and the skar ddx 15
i am hung up on the power wire. you said in the video that you used a knife to poke a hole in the inner grommet. did you poke through both the inner and outer grommet (the one visible from inside the engine compartment) with the knife and then use a wire snake to push/pull through the firewall? i cannot get my hand to the grommet inside the engine compartment to poke a hole there without removing the battery.
I know this is a late response, but I recently installed a JB4 tuner in my 21 cx5 and ran the obd wire through that same grommet. You can take a long screw driver, push out the side of the grommet, from the inside of the car, run your wire, then from the engine side use the same screw driver and push the grommet back in. No holes.
Do you know if those models without bose can be installed with original bose centerpoint and woofer, and what will be different in the system processing? (Just realized that you mentioned at the end, but need some details on it. ) Also, for the 35hz cut, is it realized by the speaker hardware (electrics, something you can tune), or by computer processor/DAC?
I am still having issues connecting line output converter. Where exactly did you connect inside the sub? I connect directly on terminals that plug into sub, but I am still not getting signal. Help please or might b a bad/old loc....?
Question the original subwoofer 🔊 bose it still working? With the new subwoofer? Both together? Or just the new one? Because yo say you just took signal from the subwoofer Thanks for the video that help a lot but the most important is your comments or experience adding a subwoofer 🔊 and im agree with your comment about bose system after volumen 35 and it sound terrible
The stereo is dissapointing to say the least. It has no low end. Do you think this was worth the money? Are you happy with it? I wonder if it's worth the money if it can get below 45Hz anyway.
Deformed ring terminal on battery connection? Fuse holder not secured, flopping around? Power wire not in a proper grommet. Ground wire not secured with a permanent, dedicated fastener. All of these are things you should NOT do.
A true audiophile knows bose is trash & sounds bad! Lol a true audiophile will just go aftermarket speakers but then again a true audiophile do know that audiophile equipment in a car is really not ideal because of road noise & other factors
So, the easiest way to get a system installed in the CX-5 is to buy 2 things: 1st a LOC (wavetech linkdq). This will allow you to tap the subwoofer wires and spit them into two channels for the high level input on the wavetech. This will give you a perfect signal. #2: If you buy the Audio control/wavetech amplifier to avoid the loc, it will still clip at 0 gain without the linkdq (tried it). In my case, I have the mono amp to do roll-off correction and the linkdq to add any lost frequencies back into the signal and correct the over processing. Those overpriced shallow mount down firing kicker subs are not reliable and should be avoided (tried em). Option for a cheaper Skar subwoofer in a shallow, semi shallow or a full subwoofer if the space is available. These subs have absolutely great sound and have been battle tested for build quality and sound quality (be wise and avoid the hype from influencers). This is a budget sq/sql build. If you're going for an sq/sql build, you can accomplish this by adding two apps that will increase your highs and music quality as if you installed an aftermarket amp and new speakers. Poweramp and wavelet are trial based apps that allow for extreme processing (pretty much a free DSP and epicenter for 30 days). With the factory Bose setup, the apps, LOC, amp and Skar subwoofer you will have a great sq/sql quality sound build that didn't cost thousands of dollars. Thank me by making sure this information gets out there. I can personally attest to how beautiful this system sounds. I'm amazed every time I listen to my music and catch myself wanting to go anywhere just to play my setup. I love it so much that I upgraded to a VXF 12 and a 1500 watts amp, as well as built a 2400 watt complete skar surround system for my home in two rooms. Rule is: always buy too much power. (you can always turn it down but if you don't have enough you can't turn it up). You don't need either expensive amp and would be wise to buy a Skar or MD/Smart Taramps brand amplifier for less money (battle tested for quality and sound quality by me and all over UA-cam).
Thanks for taking the time to share. Not much info out yet about newer Mazdas with bose systems.
Same , tap into the Bose subwoofer and wire power
I really appreciate you making this video. I have a 2021 CX-5 and want to do exactly what you have done. You answered a lot of my questions with your own experiences. I even bought the kicker passive. I’m going to build my own box though. But the wiring is the thing I’ve been wondering about. Thanks
FOR THOSE WHO STILL CANT UNDERSTAND HOW TO GET THE RCA SIGNAL. I had the exact same issue as u and here is the FIX. Tap into the bose rear tire speaker and just unplug the rear speaker. (White-positive /brown-negative.) tie it to the line out converter. No need to take out the seat to access the stock amp . REMOTE WIRE - tap into the driver door lock fuse from fuse box under the steering wheel.pls like if this comment helped u.
You are tapping into the high level. It would be best to tap into the low level lines
@@trailerhaul8200where is the low level?
Has adding the amp affected your car's electrical system in any way?
you gotta gain match the remote knob at max and set gain on the amp then you can also make it that u use like 50% under 35 volume and increase it over so you can play louder and still get bass aswel
thx for the video. wife wanted more boom^2 in her Touring and she didn't want to sacrifice cargo space; so I went w/the JBL BassPro Nano. it should provide enough "boom" w/o interfering w/hauling stuff. Just looking for the best place to run the power wire into the cabin.
Dude, let the sub replace the stock sub....dont have the stock sub AND your sub connected.
Thats all you want to do, is like remove stock and install new.
When this happens the stock amplifier is no longer powering the lows right? Your amp is.
So the stock amp is still pushing the same amount of watts but only to highs and mids....stereo will be louder! And sound much better too. Having the stock sub and your sub....its not optimal.
YOull hear instruments better , more separation less flab.
The one mistake I see, the ScarAudio RP amp only has low voltage RCA inputs rated for 6V max. The Bose speaker output is probably over this voltage. This probably why all the gains/volume knob is turned all the way down, input signal is already maxing out the input allowed maximum of 6V.
Need to get amplifier with "speaker level inputs", many amps have this feature. Speaker level input can handle the higher voltage driven to the sub vs. a head-unit RCA that max's out at say 4V.
Also many have remote turn-on just based on speaker signal input, no need for remote wire. Although nothing wrong with a remote wire either.
Otherwise I like the budget friendly factory install. Easy to remove as needed.
Nah, just get an LOC. Audio Controls LC2i with the rp1200.
Thats what I did.... and a Skar SVR 8" sub.
Sub is 400 watts....wired it at 4ohm so the amp was putting out 500 watts at 4ohms. Had the headroom...the low resistance...ran cool as sht in the summer....and i can just add another 8" and swwitch toi 2ohms..
@dsmith5822 how do I know if my amp has signal sensing?
@mrgrizz0672 Need to read the speciation sheet. It would state something like remote sense turn on, or say will turn on once it senses the audio signal present. Not all have, but it's getting more common
LOCs have it too, like the Kicker 46KISLOC2 K-Series Stereo Line-Output Converter w/Remote Turn-On Output
@@dsmith5822 can you recommend me some amps for 600w, 2 ohm ,mono with high level and low level inputs, and remote sense
@@mrgrizz0672 use Crutchfield as example, they have filters to sort power, mono, input.
Alpine S2-A60M is one example, has everything you want....there are others.
Edit. Remote sense only is on speaker inputs, which is normal.
Mines dpesnt have the paddle shifts like yours does. I also have the bose system but im going to put a 15 in mines with a skar 1kmono maybe the 800.1 and the skar ddx 15
i am hung up on the power wire. you said in the video that you used a knife to poke a hole in the inner grommet. did you poke through both the inner and outer grommet (the one visible from inside the engine compartment) with the knife and then use a wire snake to push/pull through the firewall? i cannot get my hand to the grommet inside the engine compartment to poke a hole there without removing the battery.
Yes i removed battery, yes 2 years
I know this is a late response, but I recently installed a JB4 tuner in my 21 cx5 and ran the obd wire through that same grommet. You can take a long screw driver, push out the side of the grommet, from the inside of the car, run your wire, then from the engine side use the same screw driver and push the grommet back in. No holes.
@@meetshield2461 what is jb4 tuner
@@awstech6217 Added a significant amount of power to our CX-5. It pulls hard... especially towards the higher RPM ranges.. unlike it did stock.
@@meetshield2461 is it tune to stock parts ? No need to buy parts ? Void warranty?
How is the amplifier setup different from increasing the bass slider in the settings?
What's the exact rca input you have 5:35
Do you know if those models without bose can be installed with original bose centerpoint and woofer, and what will be different in the system processing? (Just realized that you mentioned at the end, but need some details on it. ) Also, for the 35hz cut, is it realized by the speaker hardware (electrics, something you can tune), or by computer processor/DAC?
You will need to do a display update with Bose module. China is able to do it but it’s very hard for us
Hello Bro , Thanks for your video , do you have change your Head Unit ? it's so big
What year is your Mazda?
Super helpful. Thanks for making this vid!
I am still having issues connecting line output converter. Where exactly did you connect inside the sub? I connect directly on terminals that plug into sub, but I am still not getting signal. Help please or might b a bad/old loc....?
Just tap in the sub wire , I did and works !
@@eddiemarc7355how? Do you know any videos that show how to do it?
Question the original subwoofer 🔊 bose it still working? With the new subwoofer? Both together? Or just the new one? Because yo say you just took signal from the subwoofer
Thanks for the video that help a lot but the most important is your comments or experience adding a subwoofer 🔊 and im agree with your comment about bose system after volumen 35 and it sound terrible
The stereo is dissapointing to say the least. It has no low end. Do you think this was worth the money? Are you happy with it? I wonder if it's worth the money if it can get below 45Hz anyway.
its worth it, we recently bought a alfa romeo costed $50k with standard audio and it cant come close to the mazda in terms of audio
Well, that packed 30 seconds of content into only 362 seconds-kudos.
You forgot the sound test
Deformed ring terminal on battery connection? Fuse holder not secured, flopping around? Power wire not in a proper grommet. Ground wire not secured with a permanent, dedicated fastener. All of these are things you should NOT do.
i think its your power wire. youre starving the amp
Hope u don't have a flat lol
A true audiophile knows bose is trash & sounds bad! Lol a true audiophile will just go aftermarket speakers but then again a true audiophile do know that audiophile equipment in a car is really not ideal because of road noise & other factors