Easy LED Panel light repair and LED driver current optimization trick
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- 3D Printing and CNC machining at PCBWay - www.pcbway.com...
In this video, I'm looking at three failed Lambario 18W LED panels that all failed within a week. They are about 9 months old and they were not used a lot but since they all failed in a week, I decided to open them up and investigate the issue and the circuit.
The panels are driven by a driver marked as 1FYL9T2CC and I was unable to find any info on it. However, the circuit was similar to other LED drivers that I've found so I was able to figure out how it works.
The LED panels had blown LED and since their construction is done with a strip of LEDs in series, having a blown LED will cause a break in the continuity and will cause the panel to malfunction. An easy fix is to remove those LEDs and replace them with just a wire, so we can re-establish the current path and the driver will take care of the rest since it only regulates the current that goes through the circuit.
To make sure that they last longer now that I repaired them, I also did some experiments to try and reduce the current that goes through them by replacing the current sense resistor on the driver board. I tried several combinations and I finally settled at a variant that uses around 30% less power than originally and the light output is not visibly affected.
Tools and materials used in the project:
Soldering Rework Station - s.click.aliexp...
Multimeter - s.click.aliexp...
Soldering Iron with tools - s.click.aliexp...
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Fumes extractor - s.click.aliexp...
Screwdriver Set - s.click.aliexp...
Tweezers - s.click.aliexp...
SMD LEDs - s.click.aliexp...
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Easy LED Panel light repair and LED driver current optimization trick
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Learned something new with the diode setting on my meter doing a quick test on a spare 12v led. That is going to come in handy someday. Thanks for the tip.
I'm glad you liked it!
Good video and nice that you explained why it is necessary to do more than just bridging the defunct LEDs and that the driver needs to be modified.
I suspect that a lot of the cheap LED lights are overdriving the LEDs to get the advertised amount of lumens, which is why so many of them fail after about a year. I have several LED strip lights that have failed in a similar way - I desoldered the LEDs from one light to repair the others. I also increased the sense current resistors to reduce the drive current by about 30% which will (hopefully) avoid the lights from failing again.
Chasing lumens is probably the reason. It makes sense. Thanks for sharing and watching!
Thanks for the video. I also have a led panel with a dimming problem at start up. I dissembled it and had no idea how to control the current of these drivers. Searched days to find a video on this type of driver. finally found. I had done this in regular LED lamps which worked great... Hope these companies stop frying these LEDs and ripping us off... So much life wasted in LEDs due to overheating.
Thanks! Yes, the driver is not documented and the IC is literally non-existent. I modified the resistors by pure guesswork. Usually there should be a formula in the datasheet.
Instead of replacing the burned led, I just replaced the current sensing resistor to a higher value so the current will be lower (~%30 lower) and could theoretically last longer, did this on led bulbs (9w/12w) this is my first test on "ceiling" models, will report how much it last 🎉
This is a viable thing to do but mine was already gone so I had to fix it first. The resistor modification is best done when the light is new and unused so that there is no stress on the LEDs at all.
Very clearing demonstration and explanation. Good job👍
Thank you!
Two irons.
I used two irons to remove LED's from my light. Then replaced them with LED's I got from China. SMD LED's are determined by the dimensions of the LED. Soldering on was easy, first clean the pads with wic and liquid flux. Clean with denatured alcohol. Use one iron, sharp tip, liquid flux and flow one side of the LED at a time.
Added to say, once you get the device to light, measuring the voltage drop across the LED tells you what voltage it is.
After that, choose the right light temperature, 3000k 6000k etc.
Great info! Thanks!
hello. thanx to this video i've got an idea what happened to our office panel lights. My question is, since two l.e.d.s are connected, should i put jumpers on the positive side ONLY in one of the led? thank you
Yes, when the LEDs are in parallel bridging only one is sufficient.
@@TasteTheCode THANK YOU
Thank you from New Hampshire, USA
You are very welcome! Thanks for watching!
Seems strange that you ignored the PIR. If the wattage is exceeded, the same problem arises. It goes dim, or stays off, or stays on. Adjusting for wattage fixed everything.
The PIR is external, not built in the lights. It is rated for 1200W so quite far from the combined 54W of the LED panels. I don't see how it could have affect the issue.
@@TasteTheCode I was looking at combined panels being run from the PIR. I eval from start to finish. my start point would have been the PIR.
Currently dealing with an evil mosfet that has the LEDs dimmed. I think I may have paralleled or serialed where I should have done the other.
Being dimmed, sounds as if you have them wired in series, sharing the current. Mine are wired in parallel.
Excellent piece of work.
Keep it please!
Thank you! ♥♥♥