I like the way how calm and precise you are when talking... Keep it up and i believe you deserve more than 6K followers for such information that you got. Keep it up man.
The driver chip will try to push a set amount of current through all LEDs so, it is better to just add a wire link. The downside is that there will be a dim spot in the panel, but it will work.
Good explanation. I installed about 100 of these and believed they would be maintenance-free. So I don't replace bulbs as I did many years ago. But now I need to fix the electronics. I would have discarded and replaced a bunch of lights if not for your instruction.
In theory yes, they should be maintenance free but questionable manufacturing leaves many broken just for some extremely cheap parts. It's good that you managed to fix yours.
Thanks for the video, I'm definitely going to try and fix the drivers as I seem to be buying a few as they keep on blowing up. I am not an electronic expert, so next time for people like me, please show us the blown and new capacitor side by side so that we know what to look out for.
Thanks for the tip. I'll do. Also make sure that you know what you are doing and have everything unplugged when working as mains electricity can kill you!
Appreciate this video discussion. Maybe you can bypass the bad segment of LEDs by connecting + and - wires to connect the segment before to the segment after the bad one. Then all will burn except just few LEDs with minimal loss of illumination.
can you tell me how to increase its current ? I have these dfferent led drivers but all have max current of 120mah but I have 12v 12w led which requires more current, so currently it glows but very dim. Thanks
The output current is controlled via some resistors on the board but you will need to find a datasheet for the specific IC on your driver. However, I will strongly advice against this. These drivers are already set on their maximum limits from the factory and pushing them even further is just a recipe for disaster! Find the right driver for the light you have!
Thanks for the great video.A nice and clear narration of different steps to repair . I have a driver 18 watt, 50-100v dc ,input 230 volts AC has a transformer towards the output side.Is it stepping down the output of bridge rectifier? In one of other videos you had a choke on the output side.
Thanks! Best option is to check the number on the driver IC and check its datasheet. Almost always, there is an example circuit inside and most of the manufacturers, just follow that when making the lamps. If it is a transformer (as you mentioned usually it is just a choke) then it might be separated from mains as a switch mode power supply.
Well I really can't tell... Maybe consult the chip datasheet? If the transformer is gone, I think you'll be better off replacing the entire driver boatd.
Nice, but capacitors dont appear bad. Is it possible i am putting too many lights off one controller? Is there a way to test the lights or the components themselves with a volt meter to see if they are bad?
Yes, each driver is rated for a set amount of power. Trying to draw more than that will damage it. You can test individual LEDs with a multimeter, but only if they are one LED per package. If they are more than you can't.
Oh thanks for this tutorial. I have a 2 color led lamp with multi separate led panels the white color started to flicker randomly. Then after a while the warm color do the same. What do you think is the wrong with the driver ? Output is 180-200 v and 230mA
Just remove one bad led. By string it by force and bridge the remaining pad w6a blob of solder and you are done. The panel will be running at a diferent voltage (3volt less) but the driver will take care of that.
Yes, I'm aware of that and I've done this in the past with regular light bulbs. The problem here is that there are 5 LEDs in the string that don't light up and that will make a visible dark area on the panel that I don't think will look good.
I appreciate your videos but there is just one thing that is driving me crazy and by researching the topic for a minute, I ended up learning even more. The subject is the pronunciation of the word "Solder". Myself being born in the USA the word is pronounced "SODDER" whereas in the UK they pronounce it "SOL-DA" (or something to that effect). I also learned that up until the late 1800's the UK pronounced it the same as the USA, until the derogatory term "Sod off" gained popularity. Then someone over there decided that maybe pronouncing the "L" would help separate it from the derogatory term. I get it. Luckily the USA didn't adopt the derogatory phrase into common vernacular, so we kept the original version. Honestly, we have more than enough derogatory terms thank you.
Hey, thanks for pointing it out. English is not my native language and I live in a country where English is not used officially. I guess I might have learned it wrong and used it wrong all the time. But now that I know, I'll try to improve. Thanks again and thanks for watching!
I would leave the legs of the first capacitor as long as possible. And not bent it over the board... Keep it as far as you can. To avoid the heat from the chip affecting it on the future
It is not the chip only as there is a lot of heat from the panel itself and the driver sits on top of it at all times. Having rhe capacitor away will definitely help but I don't think it will be too much of a difference.
Hello, I have a led light that is controlled by a remote control. I ordered this from a distance and it seems to have been damaged in transit. After turning on the light, when I press with my hand where the drivers are located, the light changes color. (for example, if the white LEDs are on, they turn purple) Sometimes it recognizes the remote control and sometimes it doesn't. Which element do you think is damaged?
The control IC, usually uses a current sense resistor that you can change based on the datasheet to lower the current and you will need to find the datasheet for finding the right value.
That is usually explained in the datasheet for the chip where there will be a formula to calculate the resistor required for the target current. But that is only if you are able to read the chip number and find a datasheet for it as often the numbers will be erased or datasheets are not available.
It is not uncommon to have chips with markings removed from the top so it is difficult to know what the exact chip is. If you can see a number, you can usually find the datasheet that will have its typical circuit in it. Most drivers are just a replica of the typical circuit diagram from the datasheet.
I have a driver for a four foot shop light led , this light just goes on and off constantly. I looked at capacitors and none looked bulging, can they still be bad ? Can they be tested?
Yes, and flashing is a common sign that at least one of them is bad. It might be one of the LEDs as well but it is not that likely. They can be tested with a capacitance meter or a multimeter that has capacitance measurement. However, the cost of the capacitors is so low that it is worth changing them all just in case and trying it out. Make sure that the voltage rating is the same or more than what's already installed.
Great video! In my case the capacitors looks right, and the values are the expected (measured on the PCB), but the light blink regularly (light half a second off, half a second on; not flickering, as almost all YT videos show). Is this case the same symptom?
That sounds as if the driver chip can't "boot" properly. Are there any resistors on the board? If yes, then try checking if any of them measures higher than expected.
Dear Taste The Code, can I connect an 12 watt driver to a 18 watt LED ceiling panel, hoping to dim the 18 watt LED panel to have the same brightness as the 12 watt panel? It is hard to find a 6-inch diameter 12 watt LED panel in Malaysia. Most sellers here sell only 6 inch 18 watt panels.
Hmmm it will probably work bit you will be pushing that driver to the max all the time and it might burn out. They are usually designed to pish certain current through the LEDs and they work in a certain range rather than a very specific wattage.
@@TasteTheCode well often the datasheet is not available, or specially for constant current buck non isolated ICs, the output voltage isn't mentioned either..what to do then? Examples DP8621 DP9501D DX 2866BJ
Output voltage usually depends on the number of LEDs attached. For constant current drivers, it is the current that they regulate so you can have more (up to chip power limit) or less LEDs and it will still work. If everything else is OK on the board, you can either replace the chip if you find a replacement, or ditch the repair entirely as the price of these drivers in not really worth that much hustle.
In my country, Poland, similar lighting fixtures (lamps) are used, and most often the LED diodes burn out. The power supply is of poor quality, the lack of filters causes interference with FM radio reception.
I think you forgot to mention that whenever working with capacitors (regardless of whether good or bad ones) in AC circuits is to always discharge them for the safety reason as not to get an electric shock.. Capacitors do retain some energy even when removed from an AC line..
Once dead, these capacitors barely hold any charge in them but, yes, it is true that they might hold a significant charge and I should have stated that more clearly. Thanks for pointing it out.
Guys, if you end up fixing these try installing lager caps and not smaller like in the video. and higher voltage if you can squeeze those in place. Lager size and voltage will give you a longer run. Say you had 25V 1000uF install 35V 1000uf. Cap body size is direct reference to how many hours it's designed to run for
I suggest replacing the caps with Rubycon or Nikkon Chemicon caps, of the highest termperature rating you can find. It'll be worth it in the long run. No-name chinese capacitors are the reason the lights failed in the first place.
I don't have a great source that I can purchase locally and not a lot of sellers will actually deliver to Macedonia. My best option is Aliexpress but you can never be sure when sourcing from it.
Just so everyone is aware... these drivers are NOT approved for use or sale in North America as they do not bear any safety certificates (cUL, CSA, or cETL, etc.). If they cause a house fire, your insurance will likely not cover you.
I think not only the capacitor failure is the only fault for driver not functioning . You need to explain how all other component working & other fault s ,
Well that was the case here so I showed that. Once I encounter another fault, I'll make a follow-up. In fact, I have several other videos where I show other faults.
Thanks for watching! I'm always looking to improve so, If you have any specific suggestions for improvement or alternative methods, I'd love to hear them!
Please no one buy an iron like that. Get a temperature controlled one with the heating element in the tip that wets solder properly without excessive heat. I like TS100 but any cheap T12 will be better than this
@@TasteTheCodeYou are right, I have been using a cheap $20 iron for years and it is fine. It won’t do SMD with 100 contacts, but I don’t try that. Nice soldering job with your “cheap” iron!
@@amoore2719 I use a Weller that resembles the one in video. I plug it in to the voltage/temp control that I built. Easy control. I had bought such panels and the drivers always eventually fail. Sometimes a failed driver unfortunately burn out some of the LEDs. I had bought some cheap driver panels from China to swap out with the bad. I may look at those bad drivers again and see if I can fix the component. I want to ask, can I use capacitors from old broken devices or do they go bad with age?
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I like the way how calm and precise you are when talking... Keep it up and i believe you deserve more than 6K followers for such information that you got. Keep it up man.
Thank you! 👍👍👍
14:11
Can I just put a resistor connecting across that particular group of LEDs and make it work?
The driver chip will try to push a set amount of current through all LEDs so, it is better to just add a wire link. The downside is that there will be a dim spot in the panel, but it will work.
Good explanation. I installed about 100 of these and believed they would be maintenance-free. So I don't replace bulbs as I did many years ago. But now I need to fix the electronics. I would have discarded and replaced a bunch of lights if not for your instruction.
In theory yes, they should be maintenance free but questionable manufacturing leaves many broken just for some extremely cheap parts. It's good that you managed to fix yours.
Thanks for the video, I'm definitely going to try and fix the drivers as I seem to be buying a few as they keep on blowing up. I am not an electronic expert, so next time for people like me, please show us the blown and new capacitor side by side so that we know what to look out for.
Thanks for the tip. I'll do. Also make sure that you know what you are doing and have everything unplugged when working as mains electricity can kill you!
Thank you for teach how to solve this problem.
You are welcome!
Keep up the good work man!
Thanks 👍👍👍
how can we make testing lamp? will you show it?
I have a video on my channel, search for dim light tester.
Appreciate this video discussion. Maybe you can bypass the bad segment of LEDs by connecting + and - wires to connect the segment before to the segment after the bad one. Then all will burn except just few LEDs with minimal loss of illumination.
Yes, this is doable if you don't mind rhe gap in the light.
Thank you for the detailed tutorial, I have a ceiling light (LED) that stopped working. I will take it down and try this repair. Hello from Canada!
I'm sorry that it failed but also, I'm glad that you'll have a learning opportunity. Let me know how it goes!
can you tell me how to increase its current ? I have these dfferent led drivers but all have max current of 120mah but I have 12v 12w led which requires more current, so currently it glows but very dim. Thanks
The output current is controlled via some resistors on the board but you will need to find a datasheet for the specific IC on your driver. However, I will strongly advice against this. These drivers are already set on their maximum limits from the factory and pushing them even further is just a recipe for disaster! Find the right driver for the light you have!
@@TasteTheCode Thanks for responding
Awesome vid bro keepum comin!!
Thanks! Will do!
Thanks for the great video.A nice and clear narration of different steps to repair . I have a driver 18 watt, 50-100v dc ,input 230 volts AC has a transformer towards the output side.Is it stepping down the output of bridge rectifier? In one of other videos you had a choke on the output side.
Thanks! Best option is to check the number on the driver IC and check its datasheet. Almost always, there is an example circuit inside and most of the manufacturers, just follow that when making the lamps. If it is a transformer (as you mentioned usually it is just a choke) then it might be separated from mains as a switch mode power supply.
Really good video!
Thanks! 👍
Nice video!
Thansk!
If I have to replace the transformer, what specifications should I go with !
Well I really can't tell... Maybe consult the chip datasheet? If the transformer is gone, I think you'll be better off replacing the entire driver boatd.
Nice, but capacitors dont appear bad. Is it possible i am putting too many lights off one controller? Is there a way to test the lights or the components themselves with a volt meter to see if they are bad?
Yes, each driver is rated for a set amount of power. Trying to draw more than that will damage it. You can test individual LEDs with a multimeter, but only if they are one LED per package. If they are more than you can't.
Oh thanks for this tutorial. I have a 2 color led lamp with multi separate led panels the white color started to flicker randomly. Then after a while the warm color do the same.
What do you think is the wrong with the driver ?
Output is 180-200 v and 230mA
Flicker is usually caused by the capacitors or by a bad LED.
Just remove one bad led. By string it by force and bridge the remaining pad w6a blob of solder and you are done. The panel will be running at a diferent voltage (3volt less) but the driver will take care of that.
Yes, I'm aware of that and I've done this in the past with regular light bulbs. The problem here is that there are 5 LEDs in the string that don't light up and that will make a visible dark area on the panel that I don't think will look good.
@@TasteTheCode just a quick fix. but its true.
I appreciate your videos but there is just one thing that is driving me crazy and by researching the topic for a minute, I ended up learning even more. The subject is the pronunciation of the word "Solder". Myself being born in the USA the word is pronounced "SODDER" whereas in the UK they pronounce it "SOL-DA" (or something to that effect). I also learned that up until the late 1800's the UK pronounced it the same as the USA, until the derogatory term "Sod off" gained popularity. Then someone over there decided that maybe pronouncing the "L" would help separate it from the derogatory term. I get it. Luckily the USA didn't adopt the derogatory phrase into common vernacular, so we kept the original version. Honestly, we have more than enough derogatory terms thank you.
Hey, thanks for pointing it out. English is not my native language and I live in a country where English is not used officially. I guess I might have learned it wrong and used it wrong all the time. But now that I know, I'll try to improve. Thanks again and thanks for watching!
I would leave the legs of the first capacitor as long as possible. And not bent it over the board... Keep it as far as you can. To avoid the heat from the chip affecting it on the future
It is not the chip only as there is a lot of heat from the panel itself and the driver sits on top of it at all times. Having rhe capacitor away will definitely help but I don't think it will be too much of a difference.
Hello, I have a led light that is controlled by a remote control. I ordered this from a distance and it seems to have been damaged in transit.
After turning on the light, when I press with my hand where the drivers are located, the light changes color. (for example, if the white LEDs are on, they turn purple) Sometimes it recognizes the remote control and sometimes it doesn't.
Which element do you think is damaged?
Sounds like a bad connection or cracked PCB. You can try to inspect the PCB for damage or try to reflow some of the ICs.
i like resourceful thinking, good video sir.
Thanks! 👍
can you adjust the constant current. i have a 350 ma one but only need 180 ma
The control IC, usually uses a current sense resistor that you can change based on the datasheet to lower the current and you will need to find the datasheet for finding the right value.
Sir, can i control to adjust current output from IC driver pin Cs resistor.if i change resistor what happen to? thank you sir!
That is usually explained in the datasheet for the chip where there will be a formula to calculate the resistor required for the target current. But that is only if you are able to read the chip number and find a datasheet for it as often the numbers will be erased or datasheets are not available.
Can you drop the current on this driver?
Yes you can. This one uses the two parallel resistors where you can take one of the to usually half the current.
@@TasteTheCode You take one off?
Yes, I usually take out the smaler one.
Is there a circuit diagram for this driver?
It is not uncommon to have chips with markings removed from the top so it is difficult to know what the exact chip is. If you can see a number, you can usually find the datasheet that will have its typical circuit in it. Most drivers are just a replica of the typical circuit diagram from the datasheet.
I have a driver for a four foot shop light led , this light just goes on and off constantly. I looked at capacitors and none looked bulging, can they still be bad ? Can they be tested?
Yes, and flashing is a common sign that at least one of them is bad. It might be one of the LEDs as well but it is not that likely. They can be tested with a capacitance meter or a multimeter that has capacitance measurement. However, the cost of the capacitors is so low that it is worth changing them all just in case and trying it out. Make sure that the voltage rating is the same or more than what's already installed.
@@TasteTheCode Thanks for insight
Great video! In my case the capacitors looks right, and the values are the expected (measured on the PCB), but the light blink regularly (light half a second off, half a second on; not flickering, as almost all YT videos show). Is this case the same symptom?
That sounds as if the driver chip can't "boot" properly. Are there any resistors on the board? If yes, then try checking if any of them measures higher than expected.
Dear Taste The Code, can I connect an 12 watt driver to a 18 watt LED ceiling panel, hoping to dim the 18 watt LED panel to have the same brightness as the 12 watt panel?
It is hard to find a 6-inch diameter 12 watt LED panel in Malaysia. Most sellers here sell only 6 inch 18 watt panels.
Hmmm it will probably work bit you will be pushing that driver to the max all the time and it might burn out. They are usually designed to pish certain current through the LEDs and they work in a certain range rather than a very specific wattage.
Good job. I got the same opportunity with sonme drivers... Maybe no anymore, thanks 👍
Give it a go, see how it goes.
Well done... Thank you.
Thank you too!
How to check the driver IC?
That is not an easy task. I guess you would check the datasheet and compare pin outputs based on that.
@@TasteTheCode well often the datasheet is not available, or specially for constant current buck non isolated ICs, the output voltage isn't mentioned either..what to do then?
Examples
DP8621
DP9501D
DX 2866BJ
Output voltage usually depends on the number of LEDs attached. For constant current drivers, it is the current that they regulate so you can have more (up to chip power limit) or less LEDs and it will still work. If everything else is OK on the board, you can either replace the chip if you find a replacement, or ditch the repair entirely as the price of these drivers in not really worth that much hustle.
very informative !
Thanks, glad you liked it!
I found low voltage problem. Solution please
Please be more specific. Low voltage where?
In my country, Poland, similar lighting fixtures (lamps) are used, and most often the LED diodes burn out. The power supply is of poor quality, the lack of filters causes interference with FM radio reception.
Yeah, it happens here as well. Manufacturers usually overdrive the LEDs just so they burn out quickly to be replaced with new lights 😭
Each led watag circuit voltag is difrent so parts velu is different.
Yes, true. Depending on the wattage of the light, a different set of components might be needed.
I think you forgot to mention that whenever working with capacitors (regardless of whether good or bad ones) in AC circuits is to always discharge them for the safety reason as not to get an electric shock.. Capacitors do retain some energy even when removed from an AC line..
Once dead, these capacitors barely hold any charge in them but, yes, it is true that they might hold a significant charge and I should have stated that more clearly. Thanks for pointing it out.
Guys, if you end up fixing these try installing lager caps and not smaller like in the video. and higher voltage if you can squeeze those in place. Lager size and voltage will give you a longer run. Say you had 25V 1000uF install 35V 1000uf. Cap body size is direct reference to how many hours it's designed to run for
Higher voltage rated capacitors are always a better choice when available.
I disagree with the body size comment. Some tiny Japanese metal encapsulated caps have high values and run almost indefinitely, even in hot PC cases.
I suggest replacing the caps with Rubycon or Nikkon Chemicon caps, of the highest termperature rating you can find. It'll be worth it in the long run. No-name chinese capacitors are the reason the lights failed in the first place.
I don't have a great source that I can purchase locally and not a lot of sellers will actually deliver to Macedonia. My best option is Aliexpress but you can never be sure when sourcing from it.
Good job
Thanks
Circuit Diagram Plzz ?
Search for a datasheet for the chip and there should be an example circuit there.
Just so everyone is aware... these drivers are NOT approved for use or sale in North America as they do not bear any safety certificates (cUL, CSA, or cETL, etc.). If they cause a house fire, your insurance will likely not cover you.
These came from lights sold in Europe. I'm not sure what certificates they have.
Five minutes? I think the next thing you need to fix is your clock
😱😱😱⏰⏰⏰
repairing 5 minutes
teaching how to fix 10 minutes
at least say thanks for this video
peace world 😁
Thank you! ♥️♥️♥️
Right!! 🤚🏻
write down polarity or you can forget😊
Hahhahaha true that! It won't be the first time 😅
I think not only the capacitor failure is the only fault for driver not functioning . You need to explain how all other component working & other fault s ,
Well that was the case here so I showed that. Once I encounter another fault, I'll make a follow-up. In fact, I have several other videos where I show other faults.
dude 10 seconds is all what you need ...
To throw it away?
1300 likes 15 dislikes is a crazy rating
👍
...says a video that is 15 minutes long...
Well if I skip all of the explanations, it will be down to 30 seconds....
In just 15 minutes.😂
Bodge on bodge
Thanks for watching! I'm always looking to improve so, If you have any specific suggestions for improvement or alternative methods, I'd love to hear them!
5min? fifteen min video
You have to account for the explanations as well.
Please no one buy an iron like that. Get a temperature controlled one with the heating element in the tip that wets solder properly without excessive heat. I like TS100 but any cheap T12 will be better than this
This is a temperature-controlled iron. It might not be the best one out there but not everyone can afford to pay hundreds for a soldering iron...
@@TasteTheCodeYou are right, I have been using a cheap $20 iron for years and it is fine. It won’t do SMD with 100 contacts, but I don’t try that. Nice soldering job with your “cheap” iron!
380 is hot, but RoHS solder tin indeed requires a higher temperature before it starts to flow.
Yes true. The biggest issue is till you have it mixed a bit with some fresh solder. Then it is usable.
@@amoore2719 I use a Weller that resembles the one in video. I plug it in to the voltage/temp control that I built. Easy control. I had bought such panels and the drivers always eventually fail. Sometimes a failed driver unfortunately burn out some of the LEDs. I had bought some cheap driver panels from China to swap out with the bad. I may look at those bad drivers again and see if I can fix the component.
I want to ask, can I use capacitors from old broken devices or do they go bad with age?
What's the issue of replacing capacitor without testing whether it got its capitance?
No need to test it when you can see that it is bulged. If it looks ok, then you can test it as a second step. A good capacitor should never be bulged!