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MGB GT - In Detail : Engine and Drivetrain
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- Опубліковано 22 лип 2019
- A detailed look at the MGB GT’s (B series) engine and drivetrain looking at differences over the years and what that means in terms of ownership! Let me know in the comments anything I've missed out or got wrong?! There will be a heap of stuff for non-UK markets that I'm just not familiar with so let me know :-)
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For someone who only sees bits of metal and a jumble of wires this is most helpful and informative. Many thanks.
DavidUKesb no probs! Thanks for watching!
Great really like these videos you've put up about MGB's, I'm away to become an owner of my own one soon!
Very good video. Informative and interesting
Outstanding video and presentation.
Thanks!! Seems really awkward watching that back now, I feel I’ve improved my presenting since then but glad you enjoyed it! Cheers for the comment!
Putting a 3-synchro gearbox into 1st is very easy at rest if you simply pull slightly back towards 2nd, just enough to engage the 2nd gear syncro. This stills the laygear and allows near instantaneous noiseless engagement of 1st.
Nice tip! Will have to give that a go, thanks!!
...also good to touch the 2nd gear synchros before going to reverse. Just discovered your videos yesterday in the fifth week "sheltering at home." I've been driving 3-synchro MGBs since 1971 and we've had my wife's Old English White 1966 GT with red interior since 1984. It is possible that the 3-synchro gearbox was in production for home market cars much later into 1967, or even early 1968. My 1967 BRG narrow tunnel MGB roadster NLR 23F was produced on my birthday (December 28th) in 1967, according to the original thermofax documentation passed along to me by the original owner when I acquired it in 1977. The documentation also listed the Abingdon installed extra cost options: Wire wheels, heater/defroster, tonneau cover, and Moto-Lita steering wheel.
Nice! Seems like you’re a veteran MGB owner then! Thanks for the info, it makes sense that they would use up older parts before fully switching to the full synchro ‘box I suppose! Thanks very much for watching and for the comments 😁👍
Really informative! recently bought a 1970 MGB GT and still figuring out its kinks. Does yours still have small leaks or is it just a part of owning a 50 year old car?
Alex Churcher hi thanks for watching! Yes I have a couple of small leaks but not from the roof or anything, one is where the pedals are and this is due to water draining off the bonnet down the channel it rests on the wing and running through rivet holes which should actually be nuts and bolts! The other leak is a pinhole in the rain gutter where it meets the rear wing, needs a proper body shop visit to sort! 🤦🏻♂️ always something to fix on these!
Hi, great videos! I've watched most of them now. We messaged a few months ago about buying advice for MGB GT which really helped when looking for one, I finally got one this week, a 1969 car.
I noticed a red switch next to the overdrive, what's is for? I have one too but it's next to the speaker and it's doesn't seem to do anything.
Thanks again for your advice.
Ah great stuff! Congrats on the purchase, what colour did you get? The red switch next to the overdrive on my car used to operate some driving lamps which I’ve removed during my ownership but retained the switch rather than have a hole in the dash 🤣 I’ll have to think of another use for it or remove I think!
@@granblogismo I see. I'll have to have a good look around and see where the wiring leads to.
I went for a, excuse the spelling, Damask red. Drove it back from Nottingham to Orpington. Loved it. Needs a tune up but apart from that it's good to go.
Btw, I'm not sure if you remember me saying but I've got a year 2000 XKR so another thing we have in common.
I'm coming across as a weird fan now lol, but I bought my Jag 2 years ago 😁
Haha, sounds like the MGB is a good one, I do like that dark red colour! XKR sounds ace too, I must say that the MG and the Jag are quite good stablemates as they are so different, the only thing I think I’m missing is something a bit more driver focussed like maybe a sports car rather than a GT or classic but that’s for the future!
@@granblogismo yeah I know what you mean about wanting a sports car. I had a mark 1 Porsche Boxster a few year ago, the 2.5. Best handling car I've driven. I drove my friend's Boxster S which is the the 3.2, 250 hp and its amazing. Still cheap to buy, early ones anyway.
Yeah I’ve considered one of those actually! Bit concerned about servicing and maintenance being costly but will consider getting something like that or a cheaper alternative as the next project!
Hi, thanks for the videos, they're really informative for people thinking about buying an MG. Coincidentally, I have an XKR year 2000!
I'm looking to buy an MGB GT this weekend, weekend of the 19th Oct. It would be great to pick your brains about the car, if you're not too busy and don't mind of course. I'm from Orpington, Kent area. What would be the best way to contact you?
6612473 hi, quick caveat, I’m by no means an expert on buying MGs, I bought mine sight unseen from eBay which is totally not the way to do it! Happy to answer any questions, I’m on instagram so DM on there is prob easiest. Some things to look out for:
Bodywork: definitely the biggest concern, expensive to fix compared to mechanicals, rot in the sills can cost 1k a side to sort properly, avoid cars with chrome sill covers below the wings/doors as normally used to cover up horrors! Behind front wheels in the wheel arch is another rust trap, there’s a seal to the inner wing which can leak and rot from inside out, check drain holes are clear along the bottom of the sills, check for wet carpets or boot area, a leak will mean floors won’t last long!
Mechanicals: simple and robust, cheap to sort for the most part, check the usual knocks from engine, excessive smoke, white sludge in oil filler etc, oil pressure should be over 60ish cold start, when warm idle should be 25ish then over 50 when revved. Any constant loud whine from gearbox or diff could indicate wear. MGBs aren’t fast but they should be fun to drive, if it feels totally gutless or handles terribly then might be signs of poor maintenance. Engines should feel ‘torquey’ rather than lively unless they’ve been tuned.
Interior: mostly cheap to fix and parts are mostly available so worn/broken items can be replaced.
Hope that helps??
@@granblogismo Brilliant, thanks for that! I'll make a list so I can refer to it, great help. 👍
Let me know how you got on! Went for a drive in my MG today and had a blast, not quick compared to the XK8 but definitely fun!
Can you use Un-Leaded gas?
It's about Making not Buying hi, not with the original cylinder head but most rebuilt cylinder heads come with hardened valve seats so you can use unleaded, I use unleaded for mine 👍
@@granblogismo Thank you. Can I buy a complete rebuild head or do I have to put it together myself? And cost please. Thank you for your help. Later
It's about Making not Buying here in the UK there are quite a few places doing completely rebuilt heads (all valves/springs already fitted) cost ranges from about £500 for a standard unleaded head then goes up for ‘performance’ heads. Not sure about other places in the world 🤷🏻♂️
@@granblogismo Thank you. Have fun with the GT. Later