@artist639 Unfortunately mixed resin can not be stored in any capacity. The curing process starts as soon as part A and part B are combined and there is no way to halt that process and allow you to store the resin for a later pour. What I like to do is have several projects which need resin and pour them all at once (sometimes this means waiting a bit until I have enough projects ready), that way I do not waste resin.
The heat of the torch causes the bubbles to rise to the surface and pop. You can try to use a toothpick but sometimes it can displace the resin or just move the bubble around vs. popping it.
@justtubingby Yes, we always have proper ventilation when we use resin. For us here at Beadaholique, we always do our resin pours right before everyone leaves for the day so the rooms can air out before the next morning when everyone arrives again.
To remove the bubbles, you can also use a bbq lighter - I find this works really well. If the bubbles are really up towards the surface, you can sometimes remove them with your hot breath. A heat gun also works, although this is my least favorite method compared to the others since i feel it does blow the resin slightly (although some people swear by it).
I have not tried this exact application before so I am not sure that the result would be "gem" like. I would suggest giving it a try and seeing what happens. It could have a very interesting look. I don't think you would need a semi clear paint on top.
Yes, I too have noticed a heating of the resin once mixed. I believe it is because part A and part B when combined create a chemical reaction and this is part of it.
Some artists who like instant results prefer a UV resin. I know other artists who prefer Easy Cast or Envirotex - it all really depends upon what you are doing and what brand you are most comfortable with.
@gatafierrra When working with resin, I prefer a painted on sealer vs. a spray sealer. The coverage is heavier which is what you want. You will also need to repeat the sealant several times over. Mod Podge itself will work as the sealant - just make sure to paint on 3 coats ontop of your image.
Yes, I have tried other brands of resin. Resin is one of those products where each individual artist will find a brand that they like best for their particular art. Speaking personally, I prefer Ice Resin because of its low instances of bubbles, crystal clear appearance, and easy doming. I find that I also have fewer instanced of fogging with it and fewer "bad" batches due to whatever reason.
A hair dryer will blow the resin, causing it to leave the confines of the bezel/mold and get on your work surface. I would not advise. You can use a bbq lighter in stead of a torch. Here are some resin tips: beadersblog . com/2012/06/mastering-2-part-resin-tips-and-advice.html The link is also in the video description underneath the video.
Yes, you should use thicker paper and coat the paper with 3 layers of sealant (letting each dry before the next coat - Mod Podge is fine). Use paper that is at least 60# weight
Brand new to resin~watched a few other videos but loved this one the best~I got so many ideas for Great Grandkids and my other business! Is there a way to watch more of your videos?
@foreveraninja88 To remove the bubbles, you can also use a bbq lighter - I find this works really well. If the bubbles are really up towards the surface, you can sometimes remove them with your hot breath. A heat gun also works, although this is my least favorite method compared to the others since i feel it does blow the resin slightly (although some people swear by it). Good luck!
A heat gun works, although this is my least favorite method compared to the others since I feel it does blow the resin slightly (although some people swear by it).
@PuReL1GhT If you turn on annotations for the video there's a link for our video on How to Remove Bottle Liners at 24 seconds. You can also go to Beadaholique's channel page and find the video there.
You can get E6000 on Beadaholique . com's website. The links for the supplies in this video are located in the video description underneath this video.
I recommend a heavier weight matte white card stock, regular printer paper is very thin and can easily become over saturated and dark/wrinkly - even when you seal it. Also, don't use papers that have a coating on them, such as photo paper printed on an inkjet printer.
I printed images off of the internet onto printer paper and made one to try (also I only had one bottle cap). This morning it looks like it got wet. So would I use thicker paper? I am using Mod Podge.
Sorry if I missed the instruction, but you said to put glue over the jump ring hole before adding resin...is that with the jump ring in or out? What type of glue? And what do you do with the glue covered hole after you add the resin? Thanks!
Here are some resin tips: beadersblog . com/2012/06/mastering-2-part-resin-tips-and-advice.html The link is also in the video description underneath the video.
You can get the supplies featured in our videos on Beadaholique . com's website. The links for the supplies in this video are located in the video description underneath this video.
Unfortunately a heat gun (at least the ones I have used) blow some amount of air in the process of emitting heat. This blowing of air will cause your resin to move and perhaps even spill out of the bottle cap.
Question...I was once wkn on a project but it actually took longer than expected and the resin I had mixed ended up hardening b4 I could use it all, I ended up getting frustrated lol an throwing it away, in the future is there anything I can do if it happens again
2 part resin is tempermental stuff. It's not possible to reverse the hardening process, so there's always a bit of stress when working with resin. You have to work to a clock, and at the same time it's always handy to have a few projects to work on at once so you don't end up wasting any of the extra resin. What we've discovered over the years is that having just the right working environment is the most important thing for resin work. You want a room that's well ventilated, with low humidity, and not too hot or too cold. The ideal temperature is 78° F / 26° C. If it's too hot the resin may cure faster, if it's cold the finished result may be cloudy.
I made one and thought I removed all the bubbles but it has been drying for a couple of hours also dome not as high as I would like, can it be reapplied with resin at this point?
Julie I was on Amazon looking for a 1.25 metal punch like you suggested and saw Beadaholique is offering a 1.5 punch on there but you said 1.25 is better for bottle caps. Do you have a 1.25 one through Amazon?
i wanna ask before i'm try it, after we make anything from resin, is it ok if i wash the cup and use it again? sorry if it is a silly question, since this is my first time using resin
I would be careful of a regular lighter because you are having to get real close to the resin and might accidentally bump it. I have used a BBQ lighter before and that works fine.
hi, what type of paper do you use? or what material you use that won't make the print get yellowish or stain or wet? this would help me a lot because so far the ones I have made have a yellow stain or have wet edges!! please and thanks!! :)
My personal preference is a matte white heavier printer paper, almost card stock (that can still go through the printer) which I seal with 3 coats of Nunn Design sealant. I let each coat thoroughly dry before applying the next and I make sure to go around the edges with each coat. www.beadaholique.com/nunn-design-sealant-protectant-2-oz-for-patera-findings-1.html
+colorpaper princess (colorpaperprincess) We have not used layout markers much before, but it's always fun to incorporate new tools and supplies in jewelry making.
Using thicker paper is best because you'll be moistening the paper several times when you glue it, and then seal it. The thicker the paper the more resistant it will be to warping or changing color while damp. You can certainly try it with regular paper but for the best looking results evert time you'll want the thickest paper you can fit in a printer.
Hi Julie, I love all the arts and craft ideas and materials you have to offer, and I do buy a whole lot of those :) I would like to create a photo pendant charm using (shop.hobbylobby.com/products/antique-silver-oval-locket-charm-366294/). My question is, can I use Diamond Glaze to act as a resin-like material instead of resin itself, since I would be getting a bottle of the Diamond Glaze for another project (bezel cabochon photo keepsake pendant)? Also, is Crafter's Pick glue an option instead of the Nunn Design glue used, to glue the photo onto the inside of the locket? If I use Diamond Glaze as a resin substitute, should I use a sealant? And do I require the torch to eliminate bubbles? Thanks, Ace
Hi! Diamond Glaze is very different then resin and will give you a different look. That said, I would not use resin on that pendant because of where the clasp "notch" hole is in relation to the interior bezel, I think your resin will spill into that hole and create a mess. You could use Diamond Glaze but I find it has a greater instance of bubbles (which you can not remove with a torch) and also sometimes has a less uniform appearance. Honestly, what I would do, is just paint 3 layers of Nunn Sealant over your image inside the bezel and then not worry about resin or Diamond Glaze for this project. It will be a different look, but I don't think you will be able to successfully achieve a resin look with that locket. Yes, you can use Crafter's Pick to glue the image into the locket. Best of luck!
I really appreciate how you took your time explaining each detail.
@artist639 Unfortunately mixed resin can not be stored in any capacity. The curing process starts as soon as part A and part B are combined and there is no way to halt that process and allow you to store the resin for a later pour. What I like to do is have several projects which need resin and pour them all at once (sometimes this means waiting a bit until I have enough projects ready), that way I do not waste resin.
The heat of the torch causes the bubbles to rise to the surface and pop. You can try to use a toothpick but sometimes it can displace the resin or just move the bubble around vs. popping it.
@justtubingby Yes, we always have proper ventilation when we use resin. For us here at Beadaholique, we always do our resin pours right before everyone leaves for the day so the rooms can air out before the next morning when everyone arrives again.
To remove the bubbles, you can also use a bbq lighter - I find this works really well. If the bubbles are really up towards the surface, you can sometimes remove them with your hot breath. A heat gun also works, although this is my least favorite method compared to the others since i feel it does blow the resin slightly (although some people swear by it).
I have not tried this exact application before so I am not sure that the result would be "gem" like. I would suggest giving it a try and seeing what happens. It could have a very interesting look. I don't think you would need a semi clear paint on top.
Yes, I too have noticed a heating of the resin once mixed. I believe it is because part A and part B when combined create a chemical reaction and this is part of it.
Some artists who like instant results prefer a UV resin. I know other artists who prefer Easy Cast or Envirotex - it all really depends upon what you are doing and what brand you are most comfortable with.
@gatafierrra When working with resin, I prefer a painted on sealer vs. a spray sealer. The coverage is heavier which is what you want. You will also need to repeat the sealant several times over. Mod Podge itself will work as the sealant - just make sure to paint on 3 coats ontop of your image.
@Beadaholique Then I mix up a fresh batch for the second layer and again have enough projects ready so as to not waste resin.
Yes, I have tried other brands of resin. Resin is one of those products where each individual artist will find a brand that they like best for their particular art. Speaking personally, I prefer Ice Resin because of its low instances of bubbles, crystal clear appearance, and easy doming. I find that I also have fewer instanced of fogging with it and fewer "bad" batches due to whatever reason.
What a cool idea! Creative wheels are a churning.
@ViEtChYnIzGuH You do not need the top glue if you are using epoxy stickers.
A hair dryer will blow the resin, causing it to leave the confines of the bezel/mold and get on your work surface. I would not advise. You can use a bbq lighter in stead of a torch. Here are some resin tips: beadersblog . com/2012/06/mastering-2-part-resin-tips-and-advice.html The link is also in the video description underneath the video.
I do not clean my measurement jar but dispose of it after every use.
Yes, you should use thicker paper and coat the paper with 3 layers of sealant (letting each dry before the next coat - Mod Podge is fine). Use paper that is at least 60# weight
@nico27004 You can absolutely use a bail.
Brand new to resin~watched a few other videos but loved this one the best~I got so many ideas for Great Grandkids and my other business! Is there a way to watch more of your videos?
You can view all our videos here: ua-cam.com/users/beadaholiquevideos
@foreveraninja88 To remove the bubbles, you can also use a bbq lighter - I find this works really well. If the bubbles are really up towards the surface, you can sometimes remove them with your hot breath. A heat gun also works, although this is my least favorite method compared to the others since i feel it does blow the resin slightly (although some people swear by it). Good luck!
A heat gun works, although this is my least favorite method compared to the others since I feel it does blow the resin slightly (although some people swear by it).
@PuReL1GhT If you turn on annotations for the video there's a link for our video on How to Remove Bottle Liners at 24 seconds. You can also go to Beadaholique's channel page and find the video there.
You can get E6000 on Beadaholique . com's website. The links for the supplies in this video are located in the video description underneath this video.
I recommend a heavier weight matte white card stock, regular printer paper is very thin and can easily become over saturated and dark/wrinkly - even when you seal it. Also, don't use papers that have a coating on them, such as photo paper printed on an inkjet printer.
I printed images off of the internet onto printer paper and made one to try (also I only had one bottle cap). This morning it looks like it got wet. So would I use thicker paper? I am using Mod Podge.
In the Amazon search box type in "beadaholique 1.25" and the 1.25mm should come up.
Do you have proper ventilation there while using the resin ?
I just bougt it sooo excited was looking for bails But didnt see any
Sorry if I missed the instruction, but you said to put glue over the jump ring hole before adding resin...is that with the jump ring in or out? What type of glue? And what do you do with the glue covered hole after you add the resin? Thanks!
Here are some resin tips: beadersblog . com/2012/06/mastering-2-part-resin-tips-and-advice.html The link is also in the video description underneath the video.
You can get the supplies featured in our videos on Beadaholique . com's website. The links for the supplies in this video are located in the video description underneath this video.
How do you clean your little mesurement jar up ? Thank's
Thank you for uploading!:) Can you buy bottle caps at Michaels?
Hi! The image was supplied by Sarah, Beadaholique's President. I personally love hunting antique stores and flea markets to find images like this.
Can you use other types of chain besides ball chain
You certainly can! We recommend using your favorite style of chain.
How can you get rid of the bubbles without a flame gun?
Will a heat gun work instead of the torch that you demonstrated?
Unfortunately a heat gun (at least the ones I have used) blow some amount of air in the process of emitting heat. This blowing of air will cause your resin to move and perhaps even spill out of the bottle cap.
Question...I was once wkn on a project but it actually took longer than expected and the resin I had mixed ended up hardening b4 I could use it all, I ended up getting frustrated lol an throwing it away, in the future is there anything I can do if it happens again
2 part resin is tempermental stuff. It's not possible to reverse the hardening process, so there's always a bit of stress when working with resin. You have to work to a clock, and at the same time it's always handy to have a few projects to work on at once so you don't end up wasting any of the extra resin. What we've discovered over the years is that having just the right working environment is the most important thing for resin work. You want a room that's well ventilated, with low humidity, and not too hot or too cold. The ideal temperature is 78° F / 26° C. If it's too hot the resin may cure faster, if it's cold the finished result may be cloudy.
I made one and thought I removed all the bubbles but it has been drying for a couple of hours also dome not as high as I would like, can it be reapplied with resin at this point?
Once it fully cures, you can apply another layer of resin. Thanks for watching!
Julie I was on Amazon looking for a 1.25 metal punch like you suggested and saw Beadaholique is offering a 1.5 punch on there but you said 1.25 is better for bottle caps. Do you have a 1.25 one through Amazon?
Does it matter what kind of paper is used for the picture? Can I just use regular printer paper?
do you have to punch a hole in it? could you use a bail?
i wanna ask before i'm try it, after we make anything from resin, is it ok if i wash the cup and use it again?
sorry if it is a silly question, since this is my first time using resin
Hi, do you think it would work with a tiny watercolor painting, if I seal it with mod podge?
That is a good idea. We have never tried. Sounds like it should work. Unless maybe the ModPodge reconstitutes the watercolor before it cures.
Can one use like super glue? Or something that's non toxic?
Unfortunately, these adhesive will not have the same effect or durability as the epoxy resin.
How or where do you get you bottle caps without the liner?? Thanks.
George
You can find our selection of no-liner bottle caps here: www.beadaholique.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=no+liner+bottle+caps&stock=1&type=all
Thank you.
George
Hi im from Pakistan and i cant find Clear Casting Epoxy Resin anymore.. Help me please
Once I mixed resin together, it became Normal temp to hot temp, can u tell me why? Urgent!!
How do you know when the bubbles are removed
You can find more information on the bubbles in the following link: beadaholique.com/products/how-to-use-ice-resin
I would be careful of a regular lighter because you are having to get real close to the resin and might accidentally bump it. I have used a BBQ lighter before and that works fine.
A way to avoid airbubbles is that you can stir it REALLY slow for a long amount of time.
hi, what type of paper do you use? or what material you use that won't make the print get yellowish or stain or wet? this would help me a lot because so far the ones I have made have a yellow stain or have wet edges!! please and thanks!! :)
My personal preference is a matte white heavier printer paper, almost card stock (that can still go through the printer) which I seal with 3 coats of Nunn Design sealant. I let each coat thoroughly dry before applying the next and I make sure to go around the edges with each coat. www.beadaholique.com/nunn-design-sealant-protectant-2-oz-for-patera-findings-1.html
Where can I buy these supply's
@EverythingDuctTape33 yeah but I usually do that. As long as you pour slowly into the measuring cup you should be fine :)
Will this technique work with a photograph?
We suggest following the steps in the following link for photographs.
ua-cam.com/video/wMIJyA8WlzI/v-deo.html
So cute!!!
@EverythingDuctTapep33 yeah but i usually do that. As long as you use
I like this video thank you
Hello Beadaholique Do you use layout markers too?
+colorpaper princess (colorpaperprincess) We have not used layout markers much before, but it's always fun to incorporate new tools and supplies in jewelry making.
On 6:10 the bottle cap looks 3d 👏 wow
That's one of the things that's great about resin, it acts as a lens that can magnify and give a lot of dimension to what it's covering
Is it okay if I use regular paper?
Using thicker paper is best because you'll be moistening the paper several times when you glue it, and then seal it. The thicker the paper the more resistant it will be to warping or changing color while damp. You can certainly try it with regular paper but for the best looking results evert time you'll want the thickest paper you can fit in a printer.
i love your videos :(tysmm
Thank you!
Thank you!
Also could I use a lighter instead of a torch? those torches are expensive!!!
Thank you
Thank you so much! :)
A heat gun is not recommended :) Just let it cure naturally - that will always give the best result. Love your vid!
Hi Julie,
I love all the arts and craft ideas and materials you have to offer, and I do buy a whole lot of those :)
I would like to create a photo pendant charm using (shop.hobbylobby.com/products/antique-silver-oval-locket-charm-366294/).
My question is, can I use Diamond Glaze to act as a resin-like material instead of resin itself, since I would be getting a bottle of the Diamond Glaze for another project (bezel cabochon photo keepsake pendant)?
Also, is Crafter's Pick glue an option instead of the Nunn Design glue used, to glue the photo onto the inside of the locket?
If I use Diamond Glaze as a resin substitute, should I use a sealant? And do I require the torch to eliminate bubbles?
Thanks,
Ace
Hi! Diamond Glaze is very different then resin and will give you a different look. That said, I would not use resin on that pendant because of where the clasp "notch" hole is in relation to the interior bezel, I think your resin will spill into that hole and create a mess. You could use Diamond Glaze but I find it has a greater instance of bubbles (which you can not remove with a torch) and also sometimes has a less uniform appearance. Honestly, what I would do, is just paint 3 layers of Nunn Sealant over your image inside the bezel and then not worry about resin or Diamond Glaze for this project. It will be a different look, but I don't think you will be able to successfully achieve a resin look with that locket. Yes, you can use Crafter's Pick to glue the image into the locket. Best of luck!
Beadaholique Thanks! Will try that.
gostei muito interessante.
We sell Easy Cast Clear Casting Epoxy Resin on our website, Beadaholique . com and we can confirm that we gladly ship to Pakistan!
sweet voice: you're gonna need bottle caps, resin, glue, and A BLOW TORCH.
D: