Відео

Bring them both down and lets put them on the Rottler F69A and see how close they are to factory Ford.

I'm a certified you tube engine builder😂

RPM PERFORMANCE makes a really good racing ford block , i think they made a couple hundred blocks of the 351w and a alluminum one also then the guys sold the castings to speedmaster and well you can guess where it went from there but i bought one from them and my racing machine shop said it was a very outstanding piece good for 1500hp all billet 4 bolt splayed mains , simese bores.

Back when I first started working with 460s in my 4x4 I bought a stock 79 460 but good shape. So low compression but not wore out. I bought headers & a air gap intake & new carb & a cam kit from erson. I remember it was plenty big for being a stock, low compression 460. And they said it is ground on 0 advance the cam timing 4° for what you are doing. And I did? Kinda? I assembled everything & put the timing chain on & lined it up to the 4° advanced mark. But I never used a degree wheel. Don't even think I knew what one was back then? It ran fine! It was actually pretty powerful & could run on Mexican dirt gas! I was pretty happy with it. Over time eventually a lifter ate a cam lobe & I didn't have anything else so I threw the stock cam back in. But I did not keep the lifters in order for the stock cam. But they were the lifters that was run with it. So I put the stock springs back on the valves & put the stock cam back in & I knew it was wrong but thought, what the hell? Let's see what this dus! And I put the stock lifters back in, not in order??!! But with the lighter weaker stock springs. I figured if anybody could ever get away with this, this would be it? Light springs, mild non aggressive stock cam,. And it ran & used it for many more miles. The cam & lifters lived!! Idk how many miles? The minute I had money to put a different 460 in I did it!! Becouse it did live, but going from a performance cam to a stock cam on a low compression 79 460 was like visiting a all night dentist!! It was so slow!! I never knew a big ol honkin 460 could be so underwhelming!! It was so exaggerated becouse of how it did run. It was impressive for a time but going backwards like that!!?? I could never do it again!! Oh ya, I advanced 4° again when I put the stock can back in but not with a degree wheel. And I did that to another engine once that later I found out made it a total of 8 advanced!! Thats when I started learning correctly from my mistakes & yes now I use a wheel & also understand a cam card. But stock 460s still just make my head hang in exhaustion.

This person is probably trying to use Davis Vizards formula. You should be familiar with it right?

I have a question I have 2 v Aussie heads on the exhaust port for the heat riser there is a whole would you fill that an if so with what thanks

Good comparison between these blocks…I would be happy with both however, I prefer the Dart for its design. Currently my 347 Clevor is a Factory Mexican block.Next build will be the Dart. Thanks Brent, very informative video as per usual. Jon

Brilliant explanation Brent, thank you once again for covering both ways of checking cam specs,shows just how accurate the best method is.!👍🏼

Excellent Brent.

Has anyone tried straightening out the FE exhaust ports for better flow? It would require some cutting and welding to get the better upward angle. But it would be worth it I believe.

World products sold me a block with a giant inclusion in the number 1 bore and refused to replace it. I had to eat the cost.

Good information thanks for the video

Good info Brent!! Thanks!!

Thanks for this great video! I know you have covered cam degreeing before, but the previous video will be hard to find since it was in one of the previous engine builds. Now I can just search for this video when I want to review it in the future.

If someone is buying new tickets why would they even consider 1.6? It’s been proven that bolting on the 1.7’s increases power. It’s free lift.

Well done 👍

Sounds glorious.

Hey Brent, Tim here, I cudnt agree with you MORE!!, CHILL OUT !!.....as I follow many of the cam challenge competitors already, most awful comments were by the sofa gurus.....most ALL competitors wanna win, yes, but are more after DATA!!....so, how each individual comes up with their grind, is them......may not be same as the Joe next to them.....who cares!!??....LETS GET SOME DATA!!......btw, by the computer (Eric's vid from Sat) you're like RITE there, with limited LS experience......I think its gonna be awesome, and let each builder do his thing, and again, LETS GET THE DATA!!...........REALLY enjoyed this vid from you.....GREAT Sun morn, sipping coffee enjoyment......ur gonna do well.....between Vizard, Powell, Salter, and you, I cudnt be happier to be able to watch and see....ALL you guys are TOP NOTCH engine dudes.....PEACE to you sir, and GOOD LUCK!!!....TY for makin my Sun mornin super cool!!.....

LOVE YOUR VIDEOS - USA 🇺🇸

Great information as always Brent.... with a timing chain, if it need half or 1 degree, i use to put it at 2 degrees advanced, with the chain stretch it loses a degree or so... back close to the Cam card number... Whats your thoughts ??/

A little over 2 years ago I received what I would call a defective crank from SCAT. I returned it and bought an Eagle ESP to replace it. The Eagle ESP crank was near perfect and everything was chamfered very nicely. It has given me no problems, so far :)

Thank you for your knowledge and videos USA 🇺🇸 TRUMP MAGA

Thank you for your knowledge and videos . TRUMP USA 🇺🇸 MAGA

Nice for the billet steel flat tappet camshaft do you still have to break it in like a regular flat tappet or what's the deal running billet and why instead of roller

Thanks Brent! You are a great teacher.

Thanks for the good info Brent👍🏻💯

Thanks Brent. Another great tutorial.

Best explanation I’ve seen yet on how to degree a camshaft. Thanks Brent

Hi brent, When you go back in counter clockwise (in the ICL, ECL method), should you come back 100 thousandths and then go forward to 50 thousandths to solve the timing chain slack, or is not critical? ecxellent video like always!! regards from Argentina.

I did not like the cam installed with metal specs in cylinder bores and bottom of the camshafts on both blocks. I would never buy a Lykins built engine after seeing the metal being ignored as though it is OK

Thank you for the in-depth video. Great info and demo. Will your piston stop work on Pontiac?

Brent, Thank you for a great video. I’m curious do you do much work on the old Clevelands, in particular, a stroker build of either a 393 or 408? Is one preferable over the other in regard to sidewall piston thrust and overall engine longevity. I’m interested in a weekend drag car and the occasional trip on the street. I’ve bought some CHI 3v heads 225cc and a CHI single plane intake topped with a Holley 830 cfm carb. With those heads I’m thinking more displacement is better. Any thought or suggestions would be much appreciated.

Always good info,usually overlooked with new builders/assemblers .. Each builder has their niche/approach,

there isn't a big gap between Passion and ignorance!!!

Brent, whats the status of the Coyote you were building a few months back?

Thanks Brent. Appreciate your time to make these videos and share your knowledge. Thinking about building a 400m with 4.25 stroke for my 79 f350 4wd. What are your thoughts. Thanks in advance for your response.

Great Video, Brent! Something that’s confusing to a lot of people it that while ICL and durations are given in crankshaft degrees but the lobe separation is in Camshaft degrees, so ( for example) a 110 lobe spread cam is really 2x (220) crank degrees apart in the engine. And also many people don’t even realize the event is from the exhaust closing to the intake opening. Also a tighter lobe spread means that the time both valves are totally closed is longer. Which equates to more compression duration. Something else you can elaborate on is that many people also don’t understand the ram effect of the intake ( when you can achieve it) is how you can pack the cylinder with more air and fuel even after the piston is coming back up after BDC.

It is great stuff!!!..... You enjoy your weekend also....😉👍

Thanks Brent. Great information!

Thanks!

On the World Block, I misspoke. I had to grind to clear the counterweight, not the rod bolt.

As a young engine builder way back, I thought straight up meant "out of the box." with the dots lined up. It was only after I got a degree wheel and measuring tools that I understood what was going on. Brent, thanks again for this very useful information.

It's odd that world didn't put a plug in the front drivers oil gallery, we always drill the plug with a .032" hole to oil the distributor gear.

Brent, not mentioned, the world block bores to 4.200.

Excellent! I’ve been building engines for decades and get tired of the “know it alls” who mislead folk that they need .100 clearance on both valves and they don’t (or can’t) understand the criticalness of the exhaust vs the intake. If I’m using an indexing timing set, I’ll check the timing extremes I’m planning to use.

Dang Brent! That thing is badass! You work on all the cool stuff....

Thanks for making this 📹 video. What oil pans do you use to clear 4 bolt main caps 1&5? We ran an Aviaid dry sump 4" flat pan on my 430 Windsor Iron Eagle block. We had to do some massaging on the pan for sure!

When i measured p2v on my 3 bar gt40 heads with stock HG, 1.6s, stock TRWs, 1.94/1.60 valves, and a TFS1, i ended up at .065/.140". It was torquey for its day.

Love your channel. Happy you are a Ford guy cause all I see is Chevy Chevy Chevy. Do you give any schooling or teaching in person. You might make extra money and I know there s a lot of guys love to be in your school. Thank you for all your videos and love to see some 302 based engines with fuel injection and old school gt 40 tubular manifolds or cobra intakes.

Wow. Very nice jump in exhaust flow. That was a 1.45 Stock? and what got put in?