Yeah from my experience a smooth surface on the intake is a no go. Exhaust and combustion chamber dont matter. Air travel performs better when rough. But saw sounded good and keep it up 👍
*From my previous experience doing small engine rebuilds the best sealant to use when doing gasket deletes is Dirko HT. It's made in germany and very high dense. It's what stihl and porsche use so it's pretty high quality sealant. I haven't been able to find anywhere here in the US that sells it and buy mine online. Tube on the dirko is also made well and never leaks air making the sealant get hard and impossible to use like the felpro, etc does as long as you screw the top on good.*
Hey I have been told about it a few times, I do appreciate it, I'll double check on amazon and see if it's there, I remember it being expensive but I guess you pay for quality. 👊
@@PoplarMechanic *You bet, I got mine on ebay from some guy in miami,fl for $15.69 for the big tube with shipping and tax included. I wouldn't pay $30 for it like I've seen some sellers online sell it for. It's well worth the price though. I've done 6 gasket deletes and a few ts420 crankcases and the tube barely has a dent in it, lasts a long time.* Here's the eBay item number for the one I got if that'll help you out *202692347703*
@@bigtexas7580 hey thanks alot man, I really want some for my 385. It's been a learning curve but I'm figuring it out. Took me a bit to understand the degree wheel, but I just picked up the cylinder from the machine shop, I had to get the base cut to hit my numbers. But I'll do a video on it for sure. 😁
Looks great. like you have experience in porting. but for exhaust its better to make your gasket from gasket material and coverit wirh copper grease or ceramic one. otherwise the muffler will get loose in time.
Well I'm no expert. But I have played with a few cylinders. And i know the gasket delete isn't the best but it sure works, Thanks for watching Merry Christmas
Gasket delete works good wit treebond or some othere strong sealant. But i was talking about exhaust gasket. that little aluminum gasket gets too small small and get squized with vibrations. muffler gets all loose. that could damage the cylinder. I have done what you did (well it looked way uglier) and after 2 months muffler was clanging all over the place. Te muffler screws didnt loosen since i used loctite 272 but gasket was too small and was causing it. I just love ms200 so i don't wanna yours getting damaged. :) Merry Christmas
also you haven't touched the top of the exhaust port, witch should now be lower because of the gasket suppression... what is the result in would? more torque ? less rpm ? thanks.
So it would be more torque, honestly I think it works well on the 200, I use it for real work every day and personally I like a bit more torque in my builds, im not an expert though, but if its one of your first jobs I would try it and you can raise it later, I recently got a lathe so I'm getting more into it, im learning as well, but you won't learn if you don't try it, 200 is a beast with a gasket delete and muffler mod i know that for sure 👍
Do you think opening the intake side is useful if the rubber conduit is still the same size? and also is opening the exhaust side useful if the muffler entry is still the same size? thanks
You definitely don't want ridges between the exhuast side and the muffler, I just dremeled the little metal gasket and the muffler so the exhuast flows smoothly, intake isn't as important to open it up but I have noticed different results on certain saws, so basically make sure the exhuast flows smooth and get the exhuast side fairly good with sandpaper(some people go to 300 grit or more), intake 80 grit is good, you want it to be a bit rougher on the intake, hope that helps
Hey Darren, I have several large saws, I have 390xp and 661, also 500i and 462 are good for most trees around here. Kinda depends on what your cutting. I'll tell you right now the 462 is hard to beat when your climbing and cutting wood, 661 is good for bigger falling jobs and bucking large wood, so 462 and 500i are good saws for everyday use i would say, I sure love my 390xp as well but it is heavier. Hope that helps!
Thanks for watching , I plan on getting more into porting and stuff when I have extra time, which isn't looking good right now, Got my eye on a lathe now to play with deck height and squish band, we will see where it goes, be safe👊
I think I got a new one after this video but here is a link to a very similar one I have, you can also check Amazon and read the reviews, the prices vary. www.amazon.ca/JIFETOR-Compression-Automotive-Motorcycle-Snowmobile/dp/B08L96889Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_50?crid=2CLMR9G7ADF6E&keywords=compression+tester&pscroll=1&qid=1652962905&sprefix=compression+tester%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-50&wIndexMainSlot=80
No, I didn't time it, just removed base gasket and cleaned up the ports, I have a degree wheel now but I'm still learning, don't judge me too hard, thanks for watching 🤙
@@PoplarMechanic I do a lot of base gasket deletes , but its a good practice to check your timing #s before and after no judging just giving some free advice bud 😎
Hey thanks for the information, I'm actually looking into a mini lathe so I can take off more material more accurately and run with a gasket. I just have to wait until it goes on sale lol. Thanks for the sub 👊
Yeah from my experience a smooth surface on the intake is a no go. Exhaust and combustion chamber dont matter. Air travel performs better when rough. But saw sounded good and keep it up 👍
*From my previous experience doing small engine rebuilds the best sealant to use when doing gasket deletes is Dirko HT. It's made in germany and very high dense. It's what stihl and porsche use so it's pretty high quality sealant. I haven't been able to find anywhere here in the US that sells it and buy mine online. Tube on the dirko is also made well and never leaks air making the sealant get hard and impossible to use like the felpro, etc does as long as you screw the top on good.*
Hey I have been told about it a few times, I do appreciate it, I'll double check on amazon and see if it's there, I remember it being expensive but I guess you pay for quality. 👊
@@PoplarMechanic *You bet, I got mine on ebay from some guy in miami,fl for $15.69 for the big tube with shipping and tax included. I wouldn't pay $30 for it like I've seen some sellers online sell it for. It's well worth the price though. I've done 6 gasket deletes and a few ts420 crankcases and the tube barely has a dent in it, lasts a long time.* Here's the eBay item number for the one I got if that'll help you out *202692347703*
@@bigtexas7580 hey thanks alot man, I really want some for my 385. It's been a learning curve but I'm figuring it out. Took me a bit to understand the degree wheel, but I just picked up the cylinder from the machine shop, I had to get the base cut to hit my numbers. But I'll do a video on it for sure. 😁
Gotta love a ported 200T...hope to see it in a piece of wood soon..
Ya I've had er in some wood already she cuts good, Next weekend I'll do a video with it in action. Thanks for watching.
Looks great. like you have experience in porting.
but for exhaust its better to make your gasket from gasket material and coverit wirh copper grease or ceramic one. otherwise the muffler will get loose in time.
Well I'm no expert. But I have played with a few cylinders. And i know the gasket delete isn't the best but it sure works, Thanks for watching Merry Christmas
Gasket delete works good wit treebond or some othere strong sealant.
But i was talking about exhaust gasket. that little aluminum gasket gets too small small and get squized with vibrations. muffler gets all loose. that could damage the cylinder.
I have done what you did (well it looked way uglier) and after 2 months muffler was clanging all over the place. Te muffler screws didnt loosen since i used loctite 272 but gasket was too small and was causing it.
I just love ms200 so i don't wanna yours getting damaged. :)
Merry Christmas
also you haven't touched the top of the exhaust port, witch should now be lower because of the gasket suppression... what is the result in would? more torque ? less rpm ? thanks.
So it would be more torque, honestly I think it works well on the 200, I use it for real work every day and personally I like a bit more torque in my builds, im not an expert though, but if its one of your first jobs I would try it and you can raise it later, I recently got a lathe so I'm getting more into it, im learning as well, but you won't learn if you don't try it, 200 is a beast with a gasket delete and muffler mod i know that for sure 👍
Do you think opening the intake side is useful if the rubber conduit is still the same size? and also is opening the exhaust side useful if the muffler entry is still the same size? thanks
You definitely don't want ridges between the exhuast side and the muffler, I just dremeled the little metal gasket and the muffler so the exhuast flows smoothly, intake isn't as important to open it up but I have noticed different results on certain saws, so basically make sure the exhuast flows smooth and get the exhuast side fairly good with sandpaper(some people go to 300 grit or more), intake 80 grit is good, you want it to be a bit rougher on the intake, hope that helps
Hi there older treeguy from Ohio. I was wondering what's the big saw you use? I'm getting ready to purchase some new saws.
Hey Darren, I have several large saws, I have 390xp and 661, also 500i and 462 are good for most trees around here. Kinda depends on what your cutting. I'll tell you right now the 462 is hard to beat when your climbing and cutting wood, 661 is good for bigger falling jobs and bucking large wood, so 462 and 500i are good saws for everyday use i would say, I sure love my 390xp as well but it is heavier. Hope that helps!
Thanks for taking us long on that. I have been wanting to try my own port job but haven't yet. Be Well
Thanks for watching , I plan on getting more into porting and stuff when I have extra time, which isn't looking good right now, Got my eye on a lathe now to play with deck height and squish band, we will see where it goes, be safe👊
Sounds nice
Whats the make and model of your compression gauge?
I think I got a new one after this video but here is a link to a very similar one I have, you can also check Amazon and read the reviews, the prices vary. www.amazon.ca/JIFETOR-Compression-Automotive-Motorcycle-Snowmobile/dp/B08L96889Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_50?crid=2CLMR9G7ADF6E&keywords=compression+tester&pscroll=1&qid=1652962905&sprefix=compression+tester%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-50&wIndexMainSlot=80
Thank you.
Thanks for the reply.
I don't see a degree wheel anywhere on your bench ?
No, I didn't time it, just removed base gasket and cleaned up the ports, I have a degree wheel now but I'm still learning, don't judge me too hard, thanks for watching 🤙
@@PoplarMechanic I do a lot of base gasket deletes , but its a good practice to check your timing #s before and after no judging just giving some free advice bud 😎
👍👍👊
Good job ! Nice saw
You should do it again and cut a piece of wood before and after port job see the difference in the saw would be great
Yes your right i should have
When you sand the cylinder head base it may be better to use a sheet of glass for a flat surface with more strokes on finer sand paper.
Hey thanks for the information, I'm actually looking into a mini lathe so I can take off more material more accurately and run with a gasket. I just have to wait until it goes on sale lol. Thanks for the sub 👊
I use this method
Bro I’m probably gonna pick one up tomorrow 😳
Nice man, I wish I could find another one.
Mis favoritas lastima que ya no las fabriquen
Hey mates, I miss tye fellas
Dude you just ruined that intake side of that cylinder
subcrised 210 and like , amazing
Awesome thank you 👊