PCBWay 3D Printing and Fabrication: www.pcbway.com/rapid-prototyping/ FNIRSI HS-02A on Banggood: uk.banggood.com/custlink/vvGSGpQDjC FNIRSI HS-02A on Aliexpress: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DdIUrrD FNIRSI FNB48P on Banggood: uk.banggood.com/custlink/KmK9DCbvaV FNIRSI FNB48P on Aliexpress: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DDT96Yr Support the Channel with Patreon: www.patreon.com/sdgelectronics
For those who don't like the rolling temp number animation on the HS-02 if you update the firmware to 1.7 you can disable it. Look for "Rolling" in the system section. By default it is ON, just set it to OFF.
@@OutOfNameIdeas2 hold down the OK button, plug cable into your PC, then plug other end into your soldering iron. you should see a message pop up on your soldering iron display. you need to drag that bin file to the BOOTLOADER that shows up on your PC. once installed, the soldering iron will reboot. you can now unplug it from your PC.
Looks like a really nice iron. Using JBC T245 compatible cartridges is great. But that horrible scrolling digit temperature display is close to being a deal-breaker. Some Chinese software engineer must have had too much time on his hands and thought it was a good idea to animate the temperature display making it impossible to read until it has reached the setpoint.
I'm confused by the 150W power reading during the coin test - is that for the Aixun? I would have expected the Aixun to be the inset window, but the "150W" is overlaid on the main window.
One thing that breaks on Fnirsi, is USB C jack, after some months of usage, usb C jack will start to bend left and right... to prevent total damage i literally epoxy glued that 15cm cable to the soldering iron, now its fixated and cannot move... one plastic part 5-6mm wide in that area would prevent USB C connector being destroyed over time... so plastic part is supporting usb c cable, from all 4 sides... 3:37 - Here you can see that metal connector is not supported by black plastic.
Thanks for the heads up. Is there a less permanent method that might work? Is there a glue that could be removed easily with heat, for example? If not a glue, some kind of wax?
@@gregsullivan7408 You can use hot melt glue. For glue gun. Transparent tube that you put in heating gun and it melts glue. Second solution is to use a lot of isolation tape to prevent moving and bending of connector in jack.
@@gregsullivan7408 No risk of damaging as it cools down in 2 seconds. Can be removed by fingers only when its cold. Try on some other material before you glue cable to soldering iron.
Hi Steven, you really had me sold on the soldering iron (or is it a staton at this point?). Ordered one this morning off of Ali! One thing that I would have loved in this review would be a teardown of the products and perhaps a guide on how and how much to “overclock” it. It comes with a barrel jack to USB cable, so I assume 20V isn’t a hard limit :)
I also got just a few days ago the FNB58 the one without Bluetooth but connectors only pass trough the USB 2 signal not the USB 3 so I need to make a modified cable in order to be able to measure the power consumption of some USB 3 devices. I was interested in testing some USB 3 flash memory and for example on USB 2 it will use 0.19W idle 0.38W max while reed or write on but when connected to USB 3 it will use significantly more around 0.6W idle and 1.8W under load (reed/write). Most new USB 3 flash memories get way to hot so I was trying to find one of the better ones for a project. The ADC resolution is also only 16bit for the current measurement on this and on my older USB power meter it was 18bit. But they show a lot of decimals to look like they are using a higher resolution ADC than they actually do. The interesting thing is that they use antialiasing for the text on the FNB58 so text looks much better on the small screen than on the FNB48. Other than that and menu being a bit different I do not think there is much of a difference.
@@sdgelectronics The AVHzY C3 and likely other models they have have USB 3.2 pass-trough at 10GB/s but they are more expensive. I just assumed the Fnirsi had also pass-trough but I was wrong.
@@sdgelectronics I have a couple of more basic usb meters which do pass through usb 3.0 (though maybe only 5 gbps): Ruideng UM34 / UM34C (only USB-A connectors pass usb-3) and Ruideng TC66 / TC66C (USB-C only)
@@sdgelectronics I need to apologize for the incorrect info. I just opened the FNB58 today and it looks like maybe the two USB-C connectors have the USB 3 connections on the PCB. I do not think I have a proper USB C cable to test that it actually works but it should and also not sure if the FNB48P is the same PCB or different. The USB A connectors are clearly just USB 2
Just received the HS-02A (but unfortunately it's a gift for a friend, so I can't try it yet! 🤣) I'm surprised at how small it & the tips are! (I haven't opened it yet, but I got the one with the extra tips, and they are clearly visible, in a separate clear bag) I was concerned that I may have accidentally bought the -B version, but all indications are that it is indeed the -A. Btw I got it from Bangood - the shipping to Sydney was very rapid. Why didn't I get one for myself too? Out of respect for mum, who bought me a conventional soldering station. 😉🤣
EDIT: whoops, the S60 was already reviewed in SDG video #297 Pinecil V2 with short gross tips Sequre S20 with genuine JBC C115 Sequre S60 with genuine JBC C210 …if you’re looking for some review suggestions. To find the best portable iron. Or is the best TS80P?
How does it perform with that barrel jack adapter connected to a regular PSU? Can it be used with a 24V adapter? Any chance of using it on the field with a 13.8V car battery?
Performance is no different. That adapter just connects barrel jack to the USB power pins. 24v is likely too high for genuine JBC tips (230W if 2.5R load). 15-16v at the cartridge gives 100W with JBC C245. FNIRSI spec says 100W max. 13:23 - It looks like this iron limits the power so maybe 24v will work.
Can you advice about your power supply unit? I have 100W GaN USB-C (WEKOME WP-U155) with 100W USB-C cable, but I can set maximum 65% of power and I wonder if it's the charger fault or I do something wrong.
My solder not working. Used about 5 times and not heating up but it shows 650 degree celsius on screen, not work on every 6 tips. Why its not heating up? Any solution?
As the device is rated 100W, have you ever reached peak power near 100W output on your reading, if your power supply is cable of 100W or more? Recently I bought a similar product rated 100W, but my reading was never more than 4.2A on 20V (from both of my PD 100W power supplies), even though I could set the max current on my solder as 5A.
Questions from a novice: 1.) How do you know what power supply to buy? I've been to FNIRSI's web site and no info is provided. And no mention of it here in this video either. 2.) I think I'll need the JBC 245442 chisel tip as I plan to use this for through-hole PCB work. Can I order this unit with just that tip?
Hi there! Absolutely love watching your videos mate! Which make & model of soldering station would you please recommend for an absolute beginner! Starter kits! Keep up the good work mate! I’ve been looking at the T320 station?
I was gonna ask about it in some recent video of yours. Glad you reviewed it! Also, there's a new mini spot welder from them something like SW 10. Would please review that too? Tia.
You say it works fine with genuine C245 cartridges. Does that mean you've actually tried it? Genuine cartridges, having a resistance of about 2.5ohms, would need to draw greater than 5A to reach 100W - can this iron run at > 5A? (perhaps using a suitable power supply & the supplied barrel to USB-C adaptor)
I just asked Fnirsi what the resistance of their tips are, and it is in fact 2.5 ohms! So the iron actually has a DC-DC converter??? I thought it would be very simple, and simply switch the input power on & off. How on earth can it dissipate the conversion losses? I must be missing something.
@@sdgelectronics excellent - thanks. I'd be interested in an explanation of how it can do the voltage conversion so efficiently - have you discussed this already perhaps, in another video? Btw it's an absolute pleasure watching your presentations - you're an excellent speaker. Thankyou.
Are you sure that the screen on the soldering iron is an IPS LCD? It seems to me to be one of those recent color mini OLED displays by the way that it shows the black color, without any backlight bleeding.
@@sdgelectronics thank you so much I thought I ordered the wrong one lol Should be here tomorrow fingers crossed And again thank you so much for the reviews. They really do help myself and others out so much.
@sdgelectronics It was my impression that the B model uses T210 tips. The FNIRSI store also says that the A model uses tips with a heating core resistance of 2.5 ohms, while the B model tips' heating core resistance is 2.1 ohms. Apart from that, both irons and tips are different lengths, 13 vs 13.5 cm and 9 vs 6.6 cm, respectively, for the A and B.
@@eggmangoogle3146hello yeah my iron just turned up. Cam definitely confirm tips are very short and also end of iron silver mounting part looks different.. Now I don't know if the a or b version is better 😂😂
@@sdgelectronicsit sounds good. Your voice sounds very deep, but I guess that’s what your voice really sounds like. I have decent audio setup with a $1000 DAC. The only thing you need to change is adjust the music by at least -6dB. I’d prefer no music though. Maybe you could do ASMR soldering videos for the subs lol.
I was going to buy this after watching the video but the iron is 263Rs in Brazil which is about £45 but the Tax to get it here is 254Rs the joys of living in Brazil ffs
@@MrFrambooise If you use it, 5v is not gonna go up to 20v. The whole point of using ampmeters with macbooks is to analise the voltage negociation and amperage. This thing is useless for me if it doesnt let me see that. It stays at 5v.
@@DciMalukoyou likely need to flip one of the usb C connections. Most usb testers only work in 1 orientation. So if it’s not negotiating properly, just flip a single usb C connection. It’s also possible you need to update the firmware on yours.
PCBWay 3D Printing and Fabrication: www.pcbway.com/rapid-prototyping/
FNIRSI HS-02A on Banggood: uk.banggood.com/custlink/vvGSGpQDjC
FNIRSI HS-02A on Aliexpress: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DdIUrrD
FNIRSI FNB48P on Banggood: uk.banggood.com/custlink/KmK9DCbvaV
FNIRSI FNB48P on Aliexpress: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DDT96Yr
Support the Channel with Patreon: www.patreon.com/sdgelectronics
For those who don't like the rolling temp number animation on the HS-02 if you update the firmware to 1.7 you can disable it. Look for "Rolling" in the system section. By default it is ON, just set it to OFF.
How do you update it
@@OutOfNameIdeas2 hold down the OK button, plug cable into your PC, then plug other end into your soldering iron. you should see a message pop up on your soldering iron display. you need to drag that bin file to the BOOTLOADER that shows up on your PC. once installed, the soldering iron will reboot. you can now unplug it from your PC.
This iron looks genuinely good portable option to use with my current JBC tips.
Looks like a really nice iron. Using JBC T245 compatible cartridges is great.
But that horrible scrolling digit temperature display is close to being a deal-breaker. Some Chinese software engineer must have had too much time on his hands and thought it was a good idea to animate the temperature display making it impossible to read until it has reached the setpoint.
i was confused what scrolling you could possibly refer but after i watched i almost laughed when i seen scrolling!
This animation only looks bad on video, but if you watch it with your own eyes, it's nice.
I'm confused by the 150W power reading during the coin test - is that for the Aixun? I would have expected the Aixun to be the inset window, but the "150W" is overlaid on the main window.
Just got the HS-02A really quite a impressive bit of kit i think Fnirsi are coming on leaps and bounds
One thing that breaks on Fnirsi, is USB C jack, after some months of usage, usb C jack will start to bend left and right... to prevent total damage i literally epoxy glued that 15cm cable to the soldering iron, now its fixated and cannot move... one plastic part 5-6mm wide in that area would prevent USB C connector being destroyed over time... so plastic part is supporting usb c cable, from all 4 sides... 3:37 - Here you can see that metal connector is not supported by black plastic.
I see it, thanks!
Thanks for the heads up. Is there a less permanent method that might work? Is there a glue that could be removed easily with heat, for example? If not a glue, some kind of wax?
@@gregsullivan7408 You can use hot melt glue. For glue gun. Transparent tube that you put in heating gun and it melts glue.
Second solution is to use a lot of isolation tape to prevent moving and bending of connector in jack.
@@orion310591RS thanks. So is that clear hot melt glue easy to re-melt? Would there be any risk of damaging the body of the iron or connector?
@@gregsullivan7408 No risk of damaging as it cools down in 2 seconds. Can be removed by fingers only when its cold. Try on some other material before you glue cable to soldering iron.
These have a lot of voltage leak at the tip, but if you use a power bank it’ll be fixed
Hi Steven, you really had me sold on the soldering iron (or is it a staton at this point?). Ordered one this morning off of Ali!
One thing that I would have loved in this review would be a teardown of the products and perhaps a guide on how and how much to “overclock” it. It comes with a barrel jack to USB cable, so I assume 20V isn’t a hard limit :)
I also got just a few days ago the FNB58 the one without Bluetooth but connectors only pass trough the USB 2 signal not the USB 3 so I need to make a modified cable in order to be able to measure the power consumption of some USB 3 devices. I was interested in testing some USB 3 flash memory and for example on USB 2 it will use 0.19W idle 0.38W max while reed or write on but when connected to USB 3 it will use significantly more around 0.6W idle and 1.8W under load (reed/write).
Most new USB 3 flash memories get way to hot so I was trying to find one of the better ones for a project.
The ADC resolution is also only 16bit for the current measurement on this and on my older USB power meter it was 18bit. But they show a lot of decimals to look like they are using a higher resolution ADC than they actually do.
The interesting thing is that they use antialiasing for the text on the FNB58 so text looks much better on the small screen than on the FNB48. Other than that and menu being a bit different I do not think there is much of a difference.
Ah thanks for the information, I didn't realise the limitation on USB 3.0. Any devices you're aware of that pass through properly?
@@sdgelectronics The AVHzY C3 and likely other models they have have USB 3.2 pass-trough at 10GB/s but they are more expensive. I just assumed the Fnirsi had also pass-trough but I was wrong.
@@sdgelectronics I have a couple of more basic usb meters which do pass through usb 3.0 (though maybe only 5 gbps): Ruideng UM34 / UM34C (only USB-A connectors pass usb-3) and Ruideng TC66 / TC66C (USB-C only)
@@sdgelectronics I need to apologize for the incorrect info. I just opened the FNB58 today and it looks like maybe the two USB-C connectors have the USB 3 connections on the PCB. I do not think I have a proper USB C cable to test that it actually works but it should and also not sure if the FNB48P is the same PCB or different. The USB A connectors are clearly just USB 2
Good review. I agree the way the numbers in the display changed was not good. It would take me a LOT to get used to that.
We'd love to see the performance of the tips it came with vs jbc's
You’re better off using lesser tips that are genuine (like Hakko T12) than Chinese JBC.
Just received the HS-02A (but unfortunately it's a gift for a friend, so I can't try it yet! 🤣) I'm surprised at how small it & the tips are! (I haven't opened it yet, but I got the one with the extra tips, and they are clearly visible, in a separate clear bag) I was concerned that I may have accidentally bought the -B version, but all indications are that it is indeed the -A.
Btw I got it from Bangood - the shipping to Sydney was very rapid.
Why didn't I get one for myself too? Out of respect for mum, who bought me a conventional soldering station. 😉🤣
EDIT: whoops, the S60 was already reviewed in SDG video #297
Pinecil V2 with short gross tips
Sequre S20 with genuine JBC C115
Sequre S60 with genuine JBC C210
…if you’re looking for some review suggestions. To find the best portable iron. Or is the best TS80P?
picked one up. You can't go wrong for $31 USD shipped. I meant, the case alone is almost worth that price.
Is this suitable for a beginner, just need one to solder led strips?
How does it perform with that barrel jack adapter connected to a regular PSU? Can it be used with a 24V adapter? Any chance of using it on the field with a 13.8V car battery?
Performance is no different. That adapter just connects barrel jack to the USB power pins.
24v is likely too high for genuine JBC tips (230W if 2.5R load).
15-16v at the cartridge gives 100W with JBC C245. FNIRSI spec says 100W max.
13:23 - It looks like this iron limits the power so maybe 24v will work.
Can you advice about your power supply unit? I have 100W GaN USB-C (WEKOME WP-U155) with 100W USB-C cable, but I can set maximum 65% of power and I wonder if it's the charger fault or I do something wrong.
My solder not working. Used about 5 times and not heating up but it shows 650 degree celsius on screen, not work on every 6 tips. Why its not heating up? Any solution?
Can you share a link to the one you say it's not a powerful as at approximately 16:40 in the video?? I can't make out the name. Thank you in advance.
I believe it is Aixun
As the device is rated 100W, have you ever reached peak power near 100W output on your reading, if your power supply is cable of 100W or more? Recently I bought a similar product rated 100W, but my reading was never more than 4.2A on 20V (from both of my PD 100W power supplies), even though I could set the max current on my solder as 5A.
pretty weird that I stumbled on this video right after buying these almost exact items, except I got the FNB58
Comparing this to the UNBRANDED T210 from SDG #344 and the KSGER C210 Portable, which one is the best? Hoping for your reply!
@@vanxgamer9843 this one I think
Questions from a novice:
1.) How do you know what power supply to buy? I've been to FNIRSI's web site and no info is provided. And no mention of it here in this video either.
2.) I think I'll need the JBC 245442 chisel tip as I plan to use this for through-hole PCB work. Can I order this unit with just that tip?
On fnrisi website theres a option that includes the charging cable with the charging plug for aditional 30€
If you already have a Pinecil then this is not really a major upgrade right?
There is also a HS01 version that takes T12 tips. Would be nice with a comparison.
I believe the HS01 tips are a shortened version of T12, so using standard T12 tips is not really an option
Good video. Can you purchase the power brick buy itself?
Hi there! Absolutely love watching your videos mate! Which make & model of soldering station would you please recommend for an absolute beginner! Starter kits! Keep up the good work mate! I’ve been looking at the T320 station?
Thanks! The T320 is good, I haven't had any issues with mine. You could consider the Jabe/Best JBC style station too
Thanks for the reply mate! Where do I find the jabe/best stations please!
Hello, what tin do you use in video?
I was gonna ask about it in some recent video of yours. Glad you reviewed it! Also, there's a new mini spot welder from them something like SW 10. Would please review that too? Tia.
hi, does the FNIRSI hs02A soldering bit support AIXUN soldering bit?
I think it would so long as you use the T245 compatible cartridges, since they are both designed to be compatible with JBC style 245s.
You say it works fine with genuine C245 cartridges. Does that mean you've actually tried it? Genuine cartridges, having a resistance of about 2.5ohms, would need to draw greater than 5A to reach 100W - can this iron run at > 5A? (perhaps using a suitable power supply & the supplied barrel to USB-C adaptor)
I just asked Fnirsi what the resistance of their tips are, and it is in fact 2.5 ohms! So the iron actually has a DC-DC converter??? I thought it would be very simple, and simply switch the input power on & off. How on earth can it dissipate the conversion losses? I must be missing something.
@@gregsullivan7408 everything 15:00 onwards is using genuine JBC cartridges
@@sdgelectronics excellent - thanks. I'd be interested in an explanation of how it can do the voltage conversion so efficiently - have you discussed this already perhaps, in another video?
Btw it's an absolute pleasure watching your presentations - you're an excellent speaker. Thankyou.
I want to use this as my primary soldering iron, does anyone know a good stand for this iron?
Interesting product and a good review.
Will it work with 65 W power bank?
Yes, you will need to set maximum power to 65% though.
Why do they still use Times New Roman for these devices? It's such a bad font for such displays.
To support Chinese characters. Latin letters are more of an afterthought.
Are you sure that the screen on the soldering iron is an IPS LCD? It seems to me to be one of those recent color mini OLED displays by the way that it shows the black color, without any backlight bleeding.
Yes definitely LCD. You can see the backlight bleed on it in a dark room.
Can it hold c115 tips
Thank you for great review love the channel.
Please whats the difference between the A version you havr and the hs02B version please .??
Just the colour. The HS-02B is all black
@@sdgelectronics thank you so much I thought I ordered the wrong one lol
Should be here tomorrow fingers crossed
And again thank you so much for the reviews.
They really do help myself and others out so much.
@sdgelectronics It was my impression that the B model uses T210 tips. The FNIRSI store also says that the A model uses tips with a heating core resistance of 2.5 ohms, while the B model tips' heating core resistance is 2.1 ohms.
Apart from that, both irons and tips are different lengths, 13 vs 13.5 cm and 9 vs 6.6 cm, respectively, for the A and B.
@@eggmangoogle3146hello yeah my iron just turned up.
Cam definitely confirm tips are very short and also end of iron silver mounting part looks different..
Now I don't know if the a or b version is better 😂😂
Hs02a for 245, hs02b for 210 tip
Can anyone recommend a suitable cable, heat resistant, about 1.5m long?
Great review on the HS-02. Thanks Steve.
So, do I retire my HS-01? Decisions decisions....
the handle looks chunkier than hs01
make sure you upgraded to 1.6 version
Fnrsi USB tester hardware is great. UI is terrible, hate the scroll wheel.
Good review
No Kelvin or Rankine ! The Horror, The Horror 😝
we need a mic change from u sir, current mic's audio is a little harsh n sharp for some reason
Nope, sounds fine to me.
Might just be my voice. Had a chest infection a few weeks back, but still not 100%. I'll tone down the HF in the EQ settings
Sounds perfect to me also
sounds fine to me
@@sdgelectronicsit sounds good. Your voice sounds very deep, but I guess that’s what your voice really sounds like. I have decent audio setup with a $1000 DAC.
The only thing you need to change is adjust the music by at least -6dB.
I’d prefer no music though. Maybe you could do ASMR soldering videos for the subs lol.
I was going to buy this after watching the video but the iron is 263Rs in Brazil which is about £45 but the Tax to get it here is 254Rs the joys of living in Brazil ffs
If you work fixing MacBooks, don't buy it. This ampmeter messes up the 5 to 20v negotiations.
what do you mean, it's delivering wrong voltage? or it's just not working?
@@MrFrambooise If you use it, 5v is not gonna go up to 20v. The whole point of using ampmeters with macbooks is to analise the voltage negociation and amperage. This thing is useless for me if it doesnt let me see that. It stays at 5v.
@@DciMalukoyou likely need to flip one of the usb C connections. Most usb testers only work in 1 orientation. So if it’s not negotiating properly, just flip a single usb C connection.
It’s also possible you need to update the firmware on yours.
@@bjt3833 The 2 bucks one I have works both ways. There is no excuse for it.
Fnirsi тупая компания, мой паяльник сгорел и-за брака ихнего переходника и мне отказали возмещать его стоимость.