One thing I noticed is that it's not what you say, but how you say it. Your sound is very clean with no distortion, your video is bright, you speak slowly and deliberately. You explain things in a step by step manner, something an educator would do. There's no need to rush on your part which calms the learner. There's no distracting background music, which has its uses, but not here . You make good use out of well developed slides. A job well done.
Dear DrVax, you are a remarkable teacher: a clear voice, no superfluous words, no tautology to pass over to your followers your impressive knowledge of 3D technology. Last but bot least, you are a very amiable person with a very sympathetic personality. The type of teacher we would love also for our children. Thank you, with my best wishes.
So useful for a newb 3d printer user. I got an Ender 3 Pro and have had some issues figuring it out, but your comment about the amount of tension on the post it note under the nozzle was perfect. I also used your trick from another video about placing a post it note under the print surface where there was a slight dip, and now it seems to be better. Slowly but surely I am getting there, but several of your videos have been some of the most help, so good at explaining.
I switched to a delta with a fixed bed and it's been a nightmare. I finally ended up doing a battery of tests to prove to the tech support people that the bed was warped so bad in one sector that the abl sensor wasn't detecting it, hence I had no adhesion back there to the point that my filament wouldn't even touch the plate, then balled up everywhere else. One thing I found while wondering prior to doing all those tests was if it was in fact me or the machine, as I watched a half dozen bed leveling videos that were mostly the same, but no one really defined how much friction you should feel with the paper. Everyone just says 'until the nozzle starts to catch'. After over a hundred bed leveling attempts with many variations of nozzle catching adjustments, that can be a massively wide range of feel! This video illustrated not only what the bead should look like, but some helpful visual guides to what the paper ought to do when in the optimal range. Bravo and thank you!
the basic bed leveling.. i still do it manually and always wait 10-15min of bed/nozzle warmup (pla prepare for pla in ma case).. the temperature play on the result just because the materials dilate (springs,bed,hotend) and the difference between cool/warmed up is big for the first layer of 200um (nozzle 400um).. but with the scratchy sound, i know if i’m ok to print.. i dream of an automatic touch for my 30x30cm bed (my carborondium glass have a wave) but my budget have a limit.. always happy to listen your way to explain all details needed for a success result!!
I love printing on a glass plate. A little bit of hair spray improves a lot the adhesion. When the glass plate cools off, the print removes by itself. If the object is difficult to remove, put it along with the glass in a freezer (outside in Canada). It will pop up by itself. Most important, the surface of the print that touch the glass is very smooth. I design my objects to have the most apparent surface on the glass. Thanks for the videos. Cheers.
There is high potential for the glass to shatter using your method. The quality of the glass will matter in whether it shatters, some will be ok. Just make sure the glass is cool to room temperature or so before tossing in the freezer. Some filaments pop off better by reheating the bed after it cooled.
Thank you for this interesting video. There's one point I haven't found: It makes sense to heat the bed before levelling it. The temperature can change the height a little.
Mister Shapiro; I can't thank you enough for some advice I got from your channel. I am ashamed to tell you that I dismissed it as mere hype, but I was VERY wrong! You told of the ability to easily remove a print from the build pate by the use of MAGIGOO. You said it is expensive, but worth it. If anything, you were underselling it. If you let the build plate cool the part simply comes off without any force being applied. As an added advantage, it doesn't build up to any extent, unlike the other glue I have used. Thank you again.
Thank you so much for helping us get started with 3D printing. Just what I needed. Have a great Labor Day weekend if you are in the US. I look forward to your next video.
Just an FYI, on the TronXY Pro (and perhaps others) you must set Z0 BEFORE you run auto bed levelling because there's a feature in the software that clears the ABL map when Z0 is set. This bug cost me a build plate and a lot of hair. This is no reflection on Irv, it's a bug!
I have found that adjusting the Left Front changes the Right Rear and changing the Right Front changes the Left Rear, SO you should do your tests/measurements in an "X" pattern, (LF to RR to RF to LR). I do this at least two times. The problem with using the post-it notes is they vary in thickness, so I use a set of feeler gauges. Now if you want to get 'really' techie, Once you have everything dialed in and running/printing perfectly; I made a mount to hold a dial indicator on the hotend, so now I know exactly what height the hotend has to be above the bed to within .000X. (Yes I know not everyone can or will do this last part.) The dial indicator was only 10 or 12 bucks on eBay.
I enjoy making them and I try to inform. But I will not always get it right so feel free to continue to comment and share with the channel's viewers. Let's continue to learn together.
Great video with good explanations. making things easy to understand. A question - does the pattern one performs the adjustment(s) in (side to side, up & down, or diagonally) make any difference?
Thanks for a clear and informative video. To add to some other comments about why the thickness of a post it note is good. The ideal thickness would seem to vary with the nozzle diameter. Since this is about getting a particular shop's what is the ideal thickness with respect to the nozzle diameter? The use of the post it note imply that that first layer should be about twice the nozzle diameter. Is that right?
WRT warped beds and using a glass plate, maybe I am being silly here, but if there is a slight upwards bulge in the bed, surely a glass plate will not help? Because, it will potentially rock - if one side is down the other will be up and vice versa. What would you do then? I can only assume one would need to pack the edges of the bed under the glass with something? I am watching all these videos avidly - I have just ordered my first printer (Sovol SV01) - so I find them really useful.
Hello, I am new to 3D printing and I ran to a problem that I cannot solve yet: I have a CR-6SE and before I changed the “fixed” bed leveling bolts, the Auto Leveling worked but the margins where off so I used extended springs with adjusting wheels instead and since then the Auto Leveling does not work anymore…. (software used is Community one)…. HELP!! Thanks for any answer!!
leveling corners creates a issue in the middle, atleast on my beds... both are warped either inside or outwards. it's weird im planning on modifying the bed movement stability entirely and remove the springs and just use hard spacers that don't compress atleast that way i calibrate it once and never touch the calibration ever again on the bed.
nice Video.. greetings from Germany. Many People here in our Printer Community are printing on a Mirror..its very flat and good for the first Layer. The same on a FR4 Epoxy Plate. I prefer the manualy Leveling on my Ender 3 Pro.
I personal find a mirror quite annoying. It may be nice for looking at the print while printing, but it is a nightmare when it comes to setting the height of the nozzle as the depth perception is irritating. I simply use a Glas plate. Same surface no issues to see the nozzle height. No need for painters tape. Glas and PLA stick like hell on Glas. ABS only with ABS glue.
@@guidomersmann9744 thats right, but the best Advantage of A mirrow ist the surface... IT is absolutly plan.., leveling manualy in the corners with a paper..( 0,2 mm) . No glue Or others.. Printing PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU only on a clean Mirrow Surface... IT works great... This is the Opinion from a lot of 3D Printers here in Germany... But. Everyone hast his own method for Good Printing and thats fine...great Joy when A print is ready and it is well
so if you have an ABL with no springs and adjusting the bed level with the square like you do. does it stop at each square to adjust the Z offset at each corner ? thank you for any help
No, the Z offset is set once for the whole printer. The ABL readings will be used my Marlin to calculate the correct offsets by adding them to the Z offset which is system-wide. Here is a video about setting Z offset: ua-cam.com/video/tOxUrP2wOjA/v-deo.html
EZTouch ABL runs before every print. It has not corrected a single 1st layer. I have to do manual bed leveling if I want acceptable 1st layer. I suspect I have a warped bed. It still does not explain why that expensive BLTouch does not do anything except touching.
I’m so confused. How do I manually level my bed if I have auto bed leveling. I know the corners are not level, but if I were to adjust z offset it will scrape in some areas and won’t in others. I need to know how do I level my platform then use auto bed leveling for a more fine tune print. Ender 3 v2 I added bl touch.
The abl builds on top of your bed leveling. If the bed is perfect the abl will register the same offset for every point it measures. If there are minor defects in the bed the abl will store offsets that will allow the printer to adjust the nozzle height for these defects.
11:01 It's not the same type of sensor. The ABL on your Ender is a capacitive sensor. But the PINDA probe on the Prusa is an inductive sensor. It's not the same thing. A capacitive sensor can detect every material. An inductive sensor can only detect metal. Thanks for sharing these tips. And let's continue learn things together :) Edit: You can also watch this video from Thomas ua-cam.com/video/il9bNWn66BY/v-deo.html
Thank you for the clarification. I checked and you are absolutely correct. This in fact clarifies why the Prusa makes requires a metal surface and the EZABL does not.
I have a ender 5 plus: I calibrated my e-steps and then the X and Y steps, Then i try to calibrate the z steps but i cannot get the first layers to stick, I've done the paper test while setting the printer up, I setup the z-offset and leveled the 4 cournes (also done a measuring after that). All OK there but now i set my fist layer at 100%, 125% thickness, Nozzle at 0.4 and extruder multiplier at 100% and try to print a calibration block the Brim is printing awfully (almost does not stick) but when the printer is beginning to print the object my bowden extruder (the metal one) is clicking and skipping a lot, it seems he is trying to extrude to fast and to much. When i measure the extruded filament i get a thickness of 1.16mm strange. i tried everything (i build and i'm using several other printers and have never had thet problem) Could i have a bad motherboard somehow. I reflashed the firmware also and have the same problem. X and Y perfect but no sticking and the extruded filament to thick. O yes i'm printing on the back side of the original build platform because it is of glass. I put hairspray glass 5 on the glass for the object to stick. On my other printers there is no peoblem. Any idea here would be helpfull because now i cannot print because of the extruding speed/flow problem.
Filaments behave differently and also require different print speed and temp.You have to be able to read the print on the fly and adjust. I also do not use any thing like tape or glue. If you get it set up correctly, you don't need any of that junk!
how do have show time remaining in Cura 4.4.1 on the screen, I had it working, now its now showing up I cant figure it out , can you plz help for a Ender # pro
I just downloaded 4.4.1 to try it and did not seem a problem. Please note you need to load and slice a model before this is displayed. It is displayed in the bottom right corner on the prepare and preview pages. If you have your "print settings" section pulled ALL the way down, fully expanded it will cover up these values. So just grab the three dots "..." and drag it back up. Hope this helps. Irv
Yes the 8" x 8" Matter Hackers spring steel will fit perfectly : www.matterhackers.com/store/l/layerlock-powder-coated-pei-build-plate-8-x-8/sk/M5W8A4RK The stock magnetic bed on the Ender 5 should grab the spring steel without problem. But if the money is not a problem, you can replace with the LayerLock MagBase.
I just tried it. In fact, I used the 9x10 version that I had for my Prusa. This also fits just fine since the Ender 5 has plenty of space around the print bed. The stock magnetic bed worked well. It is a different thickness than the standard magnetic flex surface so you will have to adjust your nozzle height. I have an EZABL on my Ender 5 and I needed to change the Z Offset from -2.175 to -2.50. The test print looked outstanding.
At 10:50, you refer to the EZABL as a CAPACITIVE sensor, yet you say that it "creates" a MAGNETIC FIELD that when a metal surface, or even a glass surface breaks that magnetic field, …….. Sorry, but am I wrong in my knowledge that capacitive and magnetic phenomena are two different things, and glass is "invisible" to magnetism? Here is Tom Sanladerer's Sensor shootout video (at 5:32 he says that capacitive sensors sense anything), but that does NOT mean they have any magnetic field. I do like your videos, keep up the good work, and thank you for sharing.
You are absolutely correct. I misspoke a capacitive sensor is different from a magnetic sensor. While they both use forms of electrical fields they function very differently and have different characteristics.
No ezabl is capacitive. From the ezabl faq “From a technical standpoint TH3D’s V3 kits are using a custom capacitive sensor type for the 12mm (EZABL Mini) and 18mm (EZABL) sensors.”
Great video. But one thing that i don't see many people discussing about is that the z offset might be affected by the layer height you are going to print with. Because the nozzle first will go up the distance your layer height is and then also add the thickness of the paper. So in reality lets say you want to print at 0.2 layer height. If your paper is 0.10 then the nozzle will raise 0.3 instead of 0.2 so probably the filament will not stick. Am I missing something here? I am pretty new to 3d printing. 3-4 months and I am having big trouble with adhesion. This guy explains it great. ua-cam.com/video/2zkrhA8itU0/v-deo.html Maybe the new slicers compensate for that difference?
Thanks for the insight. The Monoprice Ultimate 2 which shipped from factory with glass recommended always using masking tape. Based on your comment I will give “clean” glass a try.
23 mins of my life I'll never get back! Why are you showing how to level an ender 5 on a monoprice printer?? How about demonstrating how to make sure there are no wobbles and that the bed surface is perfectly leveled on an ender 5??? Less useless explanation and more step by step demonstration on how to level an ender 5!!
Appreciate your videos, you have a very good narrative. Here's a perspective method of simple fully auto leveling. TMC drivers support stallguard which might be helpful in leveling using 2+ Z axis w no sensors, the accuracy is ~0.1mm, but this + BLTouch can make perfect level effortless. AFAIK Marlin does not support that combo yet, but Duet boards do. Here's an example of auto bed level on corexy ( ua-cam.com/video/GDGWcwDOVtA/v-deo.html ) , looks like it uses dual Z sensors, cause the stock machine uses drivers that does not support stallguard.
Not sure there is a good or bad time. My viewers are world wide. If it is in the middle of the night for some viewers they will see any notifications the next day.
One thing I noticed is that it's not what you say, but how you say it. Your sound is very clean with no distortion, your video is bright, you speak slowly and deliberately. You explain things in a step by step manner, something an educator would do. There's no need to rush on your part which calms the learner. There's no distracting background music, which has its uses, but not here . You make good use out of well developed slides. A job well done.
Dear DrVax, you are a remarkable teacher: a clear voice, no superfluous words, no tautology to pass over to your followers your impressive knowledge of 3D technology. Last but bot least, you are a very amiable person with a very sympathetic personality.
The type of teacher we would love also for our children.
Thank you, with my best wishes.
Thanks. I do this because I love learning and teaching.
So useful for a newb 3d printer user. I got an Ender 3 Pro and have had some issues figuring it out, but your comment about the amount of tension on the post it note under the nozzle was perfect. I also used your trick from another video about placing a post it note under the print surface where there was a slight dip, and now it seems to be better. Slowly but surely I am getting there, but several of your videos have been some of the most help, so good at explaining.
Excellent. It will be worth your time.
thats a great tip!
Think I FINALLY GOT IT RIGHT after about 2 weeks and several failed prints. 💯💯
I switched to a delta with a fixed bed and it's been a nightmare. I finally ended up doing a battery of tests to prove to the tech support people that the bed was warped so bad in one sector that the abl sensor wasn't detecting it, hence I had no adhesion back there to the point that my filament wouldn't even touch the plate, then balled up everywhere else. One thing I found while wondering prior to doing all those tests was if it was in fact me or the machine, as I watched a half dozen bed leveling videos that were mostly the same, but no one really defined how much friction you should feel with the paper. Everyone just says 'until the nozzle starts to catch'. After over a hundred bed leveling attempts with many variations of nozzle catching adjustments, that can be a massively wide range of feel! This video illustrated not only what the bead should look like, but some helpful visual guides to what the paper ought to do when in the optimal range. Bravo and thank you!
the basic bed leveling.. i still do it manually and always wait 10-15min of bed/nozzle warmup (pla prepare for pla in ma case).. the temperature play on the result just because the materials dilate (springs,bed,hotend) and the difference between cool/warmed up is big for the first layer of 200um (nozzle 400um).. but with the scratchy sound, i know if i’m ok to print.. i dream of an automatic touch for my 30x30cm bed (my carborondium glass have a wave) but my budget have a limit.. always happy to listen your way to explain all details needed for a success result!!
I love printing on a glass plate. A little bit of hair spray improves a lot the adhesion. When the glass plate cools off, the print removes by itself. If the object is difficult to remove, put it along with the glass in a freezer (outside in Canada). It will pop up by itself. Most important, the surface of the print that touch the glass is very smooth. I design my objects to have the most apparent surface on the glass. Thanks for the videos. Cheers.
There is high potential for the glass to shatter using your method. The quality of the glass will matter in whether it shatters, some will be ok. Just make sure the glass is cool to room temperature or so before tossing in the freezer. Some filaments pop off better by reheating the bed after it cooled.
@@CJICantLie you have to use borosilicate glass. Never shattered a borosilicate glass in 8 years.
Thank you for this interesting video. There's one point I haven't found: It makes sense to heat the bed before levelling it. The temperature can change the height a little.
Excellent point. Thanks for adding it.
No doubt I will be watching this many times. Thanks for the information.
There are so many details in this hobby that I even go back and rewatch my own videos. :-)
Mister Shapiro; I can't thank you enough for some advice I got from your channel. I am ashamed to tell you that I dismissed it as mere hype, but I was VERY wrong! You told of the ability to easily remove a print from the build pate by the use of MAGIGOO. You said it is expensive, but worth it. If anything, you were underselling it. If you let the build plate cool the part simply comes off without any force being applied. As an added advantage, it doesn't build up to any extent, unlike the other glue I have used. Thank you again.
Thank you so much for helping us get started with 3D printing. Just what I needed. Have a great Labor Day weekend if you are in the US. I look forward to your next video.
Thanks
Just an FYI, on the TronXY Pro (and perhaps others) you must set Z0 BEFORE you run auto bed levelling because there's a feature in the software that clears the ABL map when Z0 is set. This bug cost me a build plate and a lot of hair. This is no reflection on Irv, it's a bug!
Thanks for your time and effort on your videos. I have learned a lot on them.
Wow Dr.Vax you're knowledge of the topics your covering is impressive thank you for break this information down for new user very grateful
What do you think about the newer design of beds using 3 points instead of 4
I have found that adjusting the Left Front changes the Right Rear and changing the Right Front changes the Left Rear, SO you should do your tests/measurements in an "X" pattern, (LF to RR to RF to LR). I do this at least two times. The problem with using the post-it notes is they vary in thickness, so I use a set of feeler gauges. Now if you want to get 'really' techie, Once you have everything dialed in and running/printing perfectly; I made a mount to hold a dial indicator on the hotend, so now I know exactly what height the hotend has to be above the bed to within .000X. (Yes I know not everyone can or will do this last part.) The dial indicator was only 10 or 12 bucks on eBay.
Thanks for your suggestions.
Thank you for your efforts & videos! I enjoy listening to them and they've been informative =]
I enjoy making them and I try to inform. But I will not always get it right so feel free to continue to comment and share with the channel's viewers. Let's continue to learn together.
This is funny. I have been using post it notes for bed leveling too, and I have the exact same post it dispenser.
best ever maker 3d, i understand all
That's the plan.
Great video with good explanations. making things easy to understand. A question - does the pattern one performs the adjustment(s) in (side to side, up & down, or diagonally) make any difference?
Thank you 😊 for as always very helping informations ....
Thanks for a clear and informative video. To add to some other comments about why the thickness of a post it note is good. The ideal thickness would seem to vary with the nozzle diameter. Since this is about getting a particular shop's what is the ideal thickness with respect to the nozzle diameter? The use of the post it note imply that that first layer should be about twice the nozzle diameter. Is that right?
Interesting comment. I need to think about this. I have a Monoprice MP10 with a 1mm nozzle and I level it the same way.
WRT warped beds and using a glass plate, maybe I am being silly here, but if there is a slight upwards bulge in the bed, surely a glass plate will not help? Because, it will potentially rock - if one side is down the other will be up and vice versa. What would you do then? I can only assume one would need to pack the edges of the bed under the glass with something?
I am watching all these videos avidly - I have just ordered my first printer (Sovol SV01) - so I find them really useful.
I level my nozzle on the fly every time that I print, and clean with alcohol. Prints always stick and it only takes a second before printing.
Hello, I am new to 3D printing and I ran to a problem that I cannot solve yet: I have a CR-6SE and before I changed the “fixed” bed leveling bolts, the Auto Leveling worked but the margins where off so I used extended springs with adjusting wheels instead and since then the Auto Leveling does not work anymore…. (software used is Community one)…. HELP!! Thanks for any answer!!
Thank you. Great video
Good reminder illustrations Thx
Thanks
leveling corners creates a issue in the middle, atleast on my beds... both are warped either inside or outwards. it's weird im planning on modifying the bed movement stability entirely and remove the springs and just use hard spacers that don't compress atleast that way i calibrate it once and never touch the calibration ever again on the bed.
nice Video.. greetings from Germany. Many People here in our Printer Community are printing on a Mirror..its very flat and good for the first Layer. The same on a FR4 Epoxy Plate. I prefer the manualy Leveling on my Ender 3 Pro.
I personal find a mirror quite annoying. It may be nice for looking at the print while printing, but it is a nightmare when it comes to setting the height of the nozzle as the depth perception is irritating. I simply use a Glas plate. Same surface no issues to see the nozzle height. No need for painters tape. Glas and PLA stick like hell on Glas. ABS only with ABS glue.
@@guidomersmann9744 thats right, but the best Advantage of A mirrow ist the surface... IT is absolutly plan.., leveling manualy in the corners with a paper..( 0,2 mm) . No glue Or others.. Printing PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU only on a clean Mirrow Surface... IT works great... This is the Opinion from a lot of 3D Printers here in Germany... But. Everyone hast his own method for Good Printing and thats fine...great Joy when A print is ready and it is well
Thanks for participating in the discussion.
You saved my prints Irv, know the 'Why' goes a long way. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Big fan sir...
From india
so if you have an ABL with no springs and adjusting the bed level with the square like you do. does it stop at each square to adjust the Z offset at each corner ? thank you for any help
No, the Z offset is set once for the whole printer. The ABL readings will be used my Marlin to calculate the correct offsets by adding them to the Z offset which is system-wide.
Here is a video about setting Z offset:
ua-cam.com/video/tOxUrP2wOjA/v-deo.html
EZTouch ABL runs before every print. It has not corrected a single 1st layer. I have to do manual bed leveling if I want acceptable 1st layer. I suspect I have a warped bed. It still does not explain why that expensive BLTouch does not do anything except touching.
Another awesome video thanks
Mind you, the 0.1mm of post it note equals the thermal expansions of Hotend. That is why the technique is used in general
Thanks for sharing.
do you have a leaky faucet or something?
I have such a hard time getting all the corners to feel the same pressure!
Tanks for the video!
Your welcome.
I’m so confused. How do I manually level my bed if I have auto bed leveling. I know the corners are not level, but if I were to adjust z offset it will scrape in some areas and won’t in others. I need to know how do I level my platform then use auto bed leveling for a more fine tune print. Ender 3 v2 I added bl touch.
Good explanation. What is the thickness of the post-it by mm? Does the abl keeps . 1 mm distance?
Not sure my caliper is accurate enough to measure it reliably, but it averages about .1 mm. I am not sure I understand your second question?
@@MakeWithTech I mean, does the abl measure or keep your manual calibration
The abl builds on top of your bed leveling. If the bed is perfect the abl will register the same offset for every point it measures. If there are minor defects in the bed the abl will store offsets that will allow the printer to adjust the nozzle height for these defects.
11:01 It's not the same type of sensor.
The ABL on your Ender is a capacitive sensor.
But the PINDA probe on the Prusa is an inductive sensor.
It's not the same thing.
A capacitive sensor can detect every material.
An inductive sensor can only detect metal.
Thanks for sharing these tips.
And let's continue learn things together :)
Edit: You can also watch this video from Thomas ua-cam.com/video/il9bNWn66BY/v-deo.html
Thank you for the clarification. I checked and you are absolutely correct. This in fact clarifies why the Prusa makes requires a metal surface and the EZABL does not.
I have a ender 5 plus: I calibrated my e-steps and then the X and Y steps, Then i try to calibrate the z steps but i cannot get the first layers to stick, I've done the paper test while setting the printer up, I setup the z-offset and leveled the 4 cournes (also done a measuring after that). All OK there but now i set my fist layer at 100%, 125% thickness, Nozzle at 0.4 and extruder multiplier at 100% and try to print a calibration block the Brim is printing awfully (almost does not stick) but when the printer is beginning to print the object my bowden extruder (the metal one) is clicking and skipping a lot, it seems he is trying to extrude to fast and to much. When i measure the extruded filament i get a thickness of 1.16mm strange. i tried everything (i build and i'm using several other printers and have never had thet problem) Could i have a bad motherboard somehow. I reflashed the firmware also and have the same problem. X and Y perfect but no sticking and the extruded filament to thick. O yes i'm printing on the back side of the original build platform because it is of glass. I put hairspray glass 5 on the glass for the object to stick. On my other printers there is no peoblem. Any idea here would be helpfull because now i cannot print because of the extruding speed/flow problem.
Filaments behave differently and also require different print speed and temp.You have to be able to read the print on the fly and adjust. I also do not use any thing like tape or glue. If you get it set up correctly, you don't need any of that junk!
how do have show time remaining in Cura 4.4.1 on the screen, I had it working, now its now showing up I cant figure it out , can you plz help for a Ender # pro
I just downloaded 4.4.1 to try it and did not seem a problem. Please note you need to load and slice a model before this is displayed. It is displayed in the bottom right corner on the prepare and preview pages.
If you have your "print settings" section pulled ALL the way down, fully expanded it will cover up these values. So just grab the three dots "..." and drag it back up.
Hope this helps. Irv
@@MakeWithTech thx you
I would have thought they would use principles from the theramin. When it hits the right frequency it's done.
Fun idea
For an ender 5 will the matter hackers steel spring bed surface work and do I also need to buy the LayerLock MagBase with the bed as well?
Yes the 8" x 8" Matter Hackers spring steel will fit perfectly : www.matterhackers.com/store/l/layerlock-powder-coated-pei-build-plate-8-x-8/sk/M5W8A4RK
The stock magnetic bed on the Ender 5 should grab the spring steel without problem.
But if the money is not a problem, you can replace with the LayerLock MagBase.
I just tried it. In fact, I used the 9x10 version that I had for my Prusa. This also fits just fine since the Ender 5 has plenty of space around the print bed. The stock magnetic bed worked well. It is a different thickness than the standard magnetic flex surface so you will have to adjust your nozzle height. I have an EZABL on my Ender 5 and I needed to change the Z Offset from -2.175 to -2.50.
The test print looked outstanding.
Thank you! I ordered one. Can’t wait to try it
How to leveling bed for Tronxy xy2 pro
The concepts are the same for all FDM style printers.
See if this video helps. ua-cam.com/video/zfTm0SqIFm4/v-deo.html
At 10:50, you refer to the EZABL as a CAPACITIVE sensor, yet you say that it "creates" a MAGNETIC FIELD that when a metal surface, or even a glass surface breaks that magnetic field, …….. Sorry, but am I wrong in my knowledge that capacitive and magnetic phenomena are two different things, and glass is "invisible" to magnetism? Here is Tom Sanladerer's Sensor shootout video (at 5:32 he says that capacitive sensors sense anything), but that does NOT mean they have any magnetic field. I do like your videos, keep up the good work, and thank you for sharing.
You are absolutely correct. I misspoke a capacitive sensor is different from a magnetic sensor. While they both use forms of electrical fields they function very differently and have different characteristics.
Thanks, God bless.
Isn’t ezabl inductive?
No ezabl is capacitive. From the ezabl faq “From a technical standpoint TH3D’s V3 kits are using a custom capacitive sensor type for the 12mm (EZABL Mini) and 18mm (EZABL) sensors.”
Great video. But one thing that i don't see many people discussing about is that the z offset might be affected by the layer height you are going to print with. Because the nozzle first will go up the distance your layer height is and then also add the thickness of the paper. So in reality lets say you want to print at 0.2 layer height. If your paper is 0.10 then the nozzle will raise 0.3 instead of 0.2 so probably the filament will not stick. Am I missing something here? I am pretty new to 3d printing. 3-4 months and I am having big trouble with adhesion. This guy explains it great. ua-cam.com/video/2zkrhA8itU0/v-deo.html Maybe the new slicers compensate for that difference?
Pla sticks on clean class very well, see video from Ivan Miranda, I mean really clean glass! Look the prints he has done, wow
Thanks for the insight. The Monoprice Ultimate 2 which shipped from factory with glass recommended always using masking tape. Based on your comment I will give “clean” glass a try.
DrVax : heated bed is must
My auto home Goes off the plate..
Please help..
Check your cables and your sensors.
23 mins of my life I'll never get back! Why are you showing how to level an ender 5 on a monoprice printer?? How about demonstrating how to make sure there are no wobbles and that the bed surface is perfectly leveled on an ender 5??? Less useless explanation and more step by step demonstration on how to level an ender 5!!
Appreciate your videos, you have a very good narrative.
Here's a perspective method of simple fully auto leveling. TMC drivers support stallguard which might be helpful in leveling using 2+ Z axis w no sensors, the accuracy is ~0.1mm, but this + BLTouch can make perfect level effortless. AFAIK Marlin does not support that combo yet, but Duet boards do. Here's an example of auto bed level on corexy ( ua-cam.com/video/GDGWcwDOVtA/v-deo.html ) , looks like it uses dual Z sensors, cause the stock machine uses drivers that does not support stallguard.
You chose a bad time to upload.
Not sure there is a good or bad time. My viewers are world wide. If it is in the middle of the night for some viewers they will see any notifications the next day.
@@MakeWithTech greetings from Poland :)
Thanks for watching.
Very nice video thanks