Here I'm replacing Struts on a 1998 Toyota Avalon. These are fully assembled units that come with the springs, mounts, new bump stops, and spring silencing material.
Good video overall but I really would have liked to see in detail how the rear seat was removed as that is the hardest part of this job and why I watched your video.
The seat or the seat back? For the seat(bottom) usually you just give the seat a good yank up.. location is about the center but edge of where your legs would if seated on the seat. But.. on occasion I've had to use a pry bar to pry the seat cushion up. Some are a pain to get up. I will say this.... I personally havnt had to undo a fastener to remove a rear sear cushion (the bottom I mean) Hope that helps
Just curious, did the "scoring" you did on the front struts to the shape of the spindle end up being a necessary to prevent misalignment on this car when you were finished or did it turn out to be not necessary after all? (You mentioned it can be an issue "on some cars"). I've got to do this on a '97 Avalon. The reason I'm doing ot is because a mechanic told me he was going to have to charge extra to do alignment in addition to the struts because that's generally what has to be done on cars. Incidentally, I haven't looked at it yet but I don't understand how the spindle is adjustable if there are two bolts on the strut that only fit one way to connect it back to the spindle. Thanks!
On that one no... but on most cars it does.. and the adjust is done by one of the two bolts is eccentric or oval shaped. When it's turn the oval will move the spindle/knuckle inward or outward a few degrees. This would be a camber adjustment. On cars without that eccentric bolt... a tech will replace one of the normal bolts with an eccentric to make a camber adjustment.
@@Steve4x4 Ok, thanks very much. I am glad to hear that I won't need to adjust the camber when I replace the struts n this car. I am wondering however, on cars without that eccentric bolt, have they never needed to be adjusted before and that's why they still have a regular bolt installed? Is that how they come from the factory untill an alignment is needed later on? Thanks again and sorry for all the questions. You've been a BIG help!
@@Steve4x4 Ok, never mind my last question. I did some checking around and found some forums that said, "Depending on the car, Camber and Caster may not be adjustable from the factory without different parts."..."Camber on most cars is usually not able to be adjusted on most cars but I've never had an issue when it was a tad off...." Another forum I went to said, "Bought 4 new tires and took my car to an alignment shop here in Houston (The car pulls to the right pretty good and had uneven tread wear). The tech said that my car (2011 Hyundai sonata) did not have adjustable camber bolts, so they could not do that part of the alignment. He said that this is _common with a good number of new cars today._ So. I suppose cars with normal bolts are what the factory puts in many new cars and supposedly they weren't meant to have the camber adjusted (without an aftermarket kit or camber bolts needing to be added.) Seems strange that they would do that but whatever. Thanks again for your help on my initial question about the Avalon!!
I have a 2002 Avalon and I knew you were going to have to remove the back seat. I think you are a good knowledgeable mechanic. My car however still takes road bumps rough after having all 4 struts replaced. going to try bushings next. Any ideas??
I honestly cannot come up with an idea as to why the car would drive rough over bumps. And the main reason is because I don't know the car I cannot see the car so it's too generalized for me to make an actual comment with any honesty. If your tires are aired up to the proper inflation then it shouldn't be that rough if you are describing a really rough ride.
Hey friend, I have a 99 Avalon. You mentioned those stabilizer arms should probably be replaced but the customer only wanted so much. Should I order those parts too and swap them out? Is it dangerous to not do that?
Hi, I cannot give you any honest answer. I dont know your car. Condition, rust milage ect... Also I don't know tour skill set or what tools u have at ur disposal. So I can only answer about that car in the video. Also that was done a few years ago. Probley 250 cars/jobs ago. So my answers on that car will be limited too.
I can't tell you what the specific sockets I used. Too long ago. What I can say there was no special sockets. A basic socket set with shallow and deep should cover your needs. Since it a Toyota... in millimeters (mm) 8,10,12,14,27,19,21,24... you have you should be able to 99% on the nuts and bolts off.
Good video overall but I really would have liked to see in detail how the rear seat was removed as that is the hardest part of this job and why I watched your video.
The seat or the seat back? For the seat(bottom) usually you just give the seat a good yank up.. location is about the center but edge of where your legs would if seated on the seat. But.. on occasion I've had to use a pry bar to pry the seat cushion up. Some are a pain to get up. I will say this.... I personally havnt had to undo a fastener to remove a rear sear cushion (the bottom I mean)
Hope that helps
where can i find the bolt in between the rear strut rod and the knuckle
You can Google that. I just did and looks like there are plenty of options available. Just make sure you get the bolts and the nuts. 2 per strut.
Just curious, did the "scoring" you did on the front struts to the shape of the spindle end up being a necessary to prevent misalignment on this car when you were finished or did it turn out to be not necessary after all? (You mentioned it can be an issue "on some cars"). I've got to do this on a '97 Avalon. The reason I'm doing ot is because a mechanic told me he was going to have to charge extra to do alignment in addition to the struts because that's generally what has to be done on cars. Incidentally, I haven't looked at it yet but I don't understand how the spindle is adjustable if there are two bolts on the strut that only fit one way to connect it back to the spindle. Thanks!
On that one no... but on most cars it does.. and the adjust is done by one of the two bolts is eccentric or oval shaped. When it's turn the oval will move the spindle/knuckle inward or outward a few degrees. This would be a camber adjustment. On cars without that eccentric bolt... a tech will replace one of the normal bolts with an eccentric to make a camber adjustment.
@@Steve4x4 Ok, thanks very much. I am glad to hear that I won't need to adjust the camber when I replace the struts n this car. I am wondering however, on cars without that eccentric bolt, have they never needed to be adjusted before and that's why they still have a regular bolt installed? Is that how they come from the factory untill an alignment is needed later on? Thanks again and sorry for all the questions. You've been a BIG help!
@@Steve4x4 Ok, never mind my last question. I did some checking around and found some forums that said, "Depending on the car, Camber and Caster may not be adjustable from the factory without different parts."..."Camber on most cars is usually not able to be adjusted on most cars but I've never had an issue when it was a tad off...." Another forum I went to said, "Bought 4 new tires and took my car to an alignment shop here in Houston (The car pulls to the right pretty good and had uneven tread wear). The tech said that my car (2011 Hyundai sonata) did not have adjustable camber bolts, so they could not do that part of the alignment. He said that this is _common with a good number of new cars today._
So. I suppose cars with normal bolts are what the factory puts in many new cars and supposedly they weren't meant to have the camber adjusted (without an aftermarket kit or camber bolts needing to be added.) Seems strange that they would do that but whatever. Thanks again for your help on my initial question about the Avalon!!
Where were the quick struts purchased?
From O'Reilly auto parts.
Use parts geek or rock auto if you want decent prices without auto parts stores outrageous pricing
I have a 2002 Avalon and I knew you were going to have to remove the back seat. I think you are a good knowledgeable mechanic. My car however still takes road bumps rough after having all 4 struts replaced. going to try bushings next. Any ideas??
I honestly cannot come up with an idea as to why the car would drive rough over bumps. And the main reason is because I don't know the car I cannot see the car so it's too generalized for me to make an actual comment with any honesty. If your tires are aired up to the proper inflation then it shouldn't be that rough if you are describing a really rough ride.
Thank u :Thank u :Thank u, Great video please make more I have a 96 toyota avalon .....
Hey friend, I have a 99 Avalon.
You mentioned those stabilizer arms should probably be replaced but the customer only wanted so much.
Should I order those parts too and swap them out? Is it dangerous to not do that?
Hi, I cannot give you any honest answer.
I dont know your car. Condition, rust milage ect...
Also I don't know tour skill set or what tools u have at ur disposal. So I can only answer about that car in the video. Also that was done a few years ago. Probley 250 cars/jobs ago. So my answers on that car will be limited too.
I need all the socket sizes? I think that the smaller bolts are 10 and 12mm.
I can't tell you what the specific sockets I used. Too long ago. What I can say there was no special sockets.
A basic socket set with shallow and deep should cover your needs. Since it a Toyota... in millimeters (mm) 8,10,12,14,27,19,21,24... you have you should be able to 99% on the nuts and bolts off.