Love your channel sir. Your videos were invaluable in replacing the entire front suspension (cv axles, control arm, sway bar links and bushings, struts, brake pads and tie rods, excluding the hub bearings, brake rotors, and the knuckle itself) on my 2000 Avalon XLS. Now I'm about to attack the rear, which looks a lot easier. Thanks so much.
3:30. What is the length and width of those 2 bolts. Please. Cause im trying to replace my 2001 Lexus es300 rear struts and i have to cut them because they not coming out. They are rust welded and i don’t want to heat them up because the gas line is in the back so that’s why im scare and plus they so rusted ill rather buy new ones and the oems one for 4 is 46 dollars in my local Hoffman Lexus and i think i could get em cheaper in home depot. So thats why i would like to know the information about those bolts and nuts. Please 🙏
Can't say the length and width off the top of my head. I'd recommend you get replacement nuts and bolts from either a Camry, Avalon or ES300 at the salvage yard. They're all the same size. They'd probably let you have them for free. I lieu of cutting the bolts, consider pushing them out with a electric powered hammer tool (commonly used by floor tile guys to break up concrete and tile real fast).
Are left and right sides different? I changed rear and front struts a couple of years ago and my car sits lower on the driver´s side. Now I wonder if the springs have a different compression ratio because the passenger´s side is one inch higher even without anyone inside the car. My car is a 2001 Camry 4 cylinder, LE by the way.
The struts are the same except for the mounting points for the stabilizer bar link, abs line and the brake hose. It would be strange for the strut manufacturers to produce struts with different compression rates. The left, right and rear struts do not wear equally ... just like brake pads, there will be different wear rates. But with brakes, when one side wears out, you replace the other side to maintain balance.
They should be the same length, but they are different for left and right in as far as which side they should be installed on. I would think you'd notice right away if you were installing in reverse though.
Solara: Why did you include the Solara in your description? Replacing the strut on a Solara(99-03) is quite different than the other cars you have listed.
The only big difference between the Solara rear strut versus the Camry (or Avalon or ES300) is the interior paneling that must be removed to get to the upper strut tower mount nuts. Removing the panels to get to the tower itself should be another video. Outside the car, the strut replacement is the same. From my recollection, the upper seat belt mounting points, the rear glass deck and plastic side covers must be removed. Thanks for your question.
They were aftermarket. The brand was either FCS, OSC or Ultra-Power. Can't remember which one I bought but they're within $10 of each other in price. They're sold by Rockauto.com. If you want higher quality, you can get MOOG, Monroe or Gabriel...but they're more expensive. The OEM provider for Toyota is KYB. So if you want something close or better to Toyota OEM, go with KYB ... also the European brand Sachs, an OEM provider, is excellent but expensive. Hope this helps!
Yes. The links are a normal wear item and they're not very expensive. Worn links will make an annoying noise every time you hit a minor bump in the road.
@@hardlymovingpro the sound your talking about is a knocking type sound right? When behind my friend i see her wheel be bouncing up and down off the ground over bumps so its just the struts and sway links need repairing? Doing these for 98 camry v6 and 98 avalon v6
In the rear end, the bushings wear out before the links and a major source of knocking noise. I'd replace both so you don't have to revisit the rear suspension when the links wear out. The bouncing up and down are worn out struts which may or may not make noise depending on what's worn out in the strut.
Can someone suggest a good replacement, don't want to pay $200 + each for OEM with strut mounts but also don't want those shite eBay ones that are $40 each that are complete units.
Don't forget jacking up the car, setting up the jack stands and removing the wheels. Overall, I'd say 1.5 to 2.0 hours. What can trip you up are rusty stabilizer/sway bar links bolted to the strut. A lot of penetrating oil and working the sway bar link nut back and forth may be required. Worst case is that the nut freezes up and they need to be sawed off thereby destroying the sway bar link. Then you have the detach the link from the sway bar in order to install the new link.
Love your channel sir. Your videos were invaluable in replacing the entire front suspension (cv axles, control arm, sway bar links and bushings, struts, brake pads and tie rods, excluding the hub bearings, brake rotors, and the knuckle itself) on my 2000 Avalon XLS. Now I'm about to attack the rear, which looks a lot easier. Thanks so much.
Glad the videos helped you out and thanks for sharing!
Great Video. Gonna have this video with while I do it.
Glad you like it and good luck with the job!
Very helpful and informative. Thank you 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Well done, thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Great vid ! 👍🏾
Thanks!
3:30. What is the length and width of those 2 bolts. Please. Cause im trying to replace my 2001 Lexus es300 rear struts and i have to cut them because they not coming out. They are rust welded and i don’t want to heat them up because the gas line is in the back so that’s why im scare and plus they so rusted ill rather buy new ones and the oems one for 4 is 46 dollars in my local Hoffman Lexus and i think i could get em cheaper in home depot. So thats why i would like to know the information about those bolts and nuts. Please 🙏
Can't say the length and width off the top of my head. I'd recommend you get replacement nuts and bolts from either a Camry, Avalon or ES300 at the salvage yard. They're all the same size. They'd probably let you have them for free. I lieu of cutting the bolts, consider pushing them out with a electric powered hammer tool (commonly used by floor tile guys to break up concrete and tile real fast).
Was wanting to know if I need a compressor tool for this or in this replacement I wouldn't need one?
It a complete (quick strut) with new springs. So a compressor tool is not needed.
@@hardlymovingpro Awesome. Thank you so much for the quick reply
You bet!
una pregunta los amortiguadores de un carmy le quedan a un toyota abalon
Por lo general, sí. Tendrás que cruzar la referencia del número de pieza.
Thank you.
Thanks.
You bet!
You are not supposed to tighten the top strut bolts until the car is lowered and the weight is on the struts.
Don't think they build it that way in the factory.
@@hardlymovingpro They sure did. Read a repair manual.
Are left and right sides different? I changed rear and front struts a couple of years ago and my car sits lower on the driver´s side. Now I wonder if the springs have a different compression ratio because the passenger´s side is one inch higher even without anyone inside the car. My car is a 2001 Camry 4 cylinder, LE by the way.
The struts are the same except for the mounting points for the stabilizer bar link, abs line and the brake hose. It would be strange for the strut manufacturers to produce struts with different compression rates. The left, right and rear struts do not wear equally ... just like brake pads, there will be different wear rates. But with brakes, when one side wears out, you replace the other side to maintain balance.
They should be the same length, but they are different for left and right in as far as which side they should be installed on. I would think you'd notice right away if you were installing in reverse though.
so are you saying the these three style of vehicles use the same strut ? the carmy avalon and lexus ?
Yes ... Double check with your parts vendor to be sure
Solara: Why did you include the Solara in your description? Replacing the strut on a Solara(99-03) is quite different than the other cars you have listed.
The only big difference between the Solara rear strut versus the Camry (or Avalon or ES300) is the interior paneling that must be removed to get to the upper strut tower mount nuts. Removing the panels to get to the tower itself should be another video. Outside the car, the strut replacement is the same. From my recollection, the upper seat belt mounting points, the rear glass deck and plastic side covers must be removed. Thanks for your question.
What brand struts u use, where they OEM or aftermarket?
They were aftermarket. The brand was either FCS, OSC or Ultra-Power. Can't remember which one I bought but they're within $10 of each other in price. They're sold by Rockauto.com. If you want higher quality, you can get MOOG, Monroe or Gabriel...but they're more expensive. The OEM provider for Toyota is KYB. So if you want something close or better to Toyota OEM, go with KYB ... also the European brand Sachs, an OEM provider, is excellent but expensive. Hope this helps!
You can't buy OEM Toyota struts assembled. You must buy all the parts separately and assemble them.
Is that all you have to do
Yes.
👍👍
Thanks!
Should the stabilizer link be replaced? Are there bushings in the stabilizer link? Thank you.
Yes. The links are a normal wear item and they're not very expensive. Worn links will make an annoying noise every time you hit a minor bump in the road.
@@hardlymovingpro the sound your talking about is a knocking type sound right? When behind my friend i see her wheel be bouncing up and down off the ground over bumps so its just the struts and sway links need repairing? Doing these for 98 camry v6 and 98 avalon v6
In the rear end, the bushings wear out before the links and a major source of knocking noise. I'd replace both so you don't have to revisit the rear suspension when the links wear out. The bouncing up and down are worn out struts which may or may not make noise depending on what's worn out in the strut.
@@hardlymovingpro sweet thanks man
Can someone suggest a good replacement, don't want to pay $200 + each for OEM with strut mounts but also don't want those shite eBay ones that are $40 each that are complete units.
Kyb or Sachs
OEM struts for an Avalon are about $500 for each rear, but will outlast any aftermarket strut about 10 times.
How long did it actually take to remove the seats, remove and install the new struts?
Don't forget jacking up the car, setting up the jack stands and removing the wheels. Overall, I'd say 1.5 to 2.0 hours. What can trip you up are rusty stabilizer/sway bar links bolted to the strut. A lot of penetrating oil and working the sway bar link nut back and forth may be required. Worst case is that the nut freezes up and they need to be sawed off thereby destroying the sway bar link. Then you have the detach the link from the sway bar in order to install the new link.
Your title makes me believe that the camry and es300 have same struts. Is this correct
Yes ... for certain model years they are the same.