super great job - especially showing the complications with some of the harder bolts that alot of videos skim over - thanks so much, hoping to try this out this weekend
So glad I saw this. I been racking my brain to figure out why my engine vibrates when in drive. I thought the dealer messed up the harmonic balancer when they did the timing belt. I took it back to show them the vibration and three mechanics had no idea what would cause it.
Thanks Will. Tom. My daughter has a '69 GTX. My son has a '70 cutlass and a Camry. Great looking charger. The blend of the rear window "sail" into the rear quarter is the most gorgeous part. IMHO. A vynyl top ruins it.
This is what I did. There are 4 bolts on each bracket. On the bracket that mounts to frame I used a grinder to cut off those 4 bolts that stick out way too long. It makes it much easier to remount it. Besides they are smooth for an inch and then the threads start. Better shorter. More room too maneuver. Next big heavy bracket has too little studs that stick out for fitment alignment. Take the rear one out. Much easier moving it around. I left front one on but ground it down rounded end so it easily fits into alignment hole to help align the four bolts that connect it to engine block. Look at that motor mount if it looks OK don't change it. It took me 4 hours to take out 4 bolts and the brackets. I had to buy an 3/8 bending articulated ratchet to get top inner bolt that connected to engine. And a small cheater pipe for more leverage. What a batch. Hope this helps.
Thanks so much for the great video Will. Found out today that my son's 2001 Camry V6 has some engine mount issues!! Great to see exactly what and where they are and understand what's involved in replacing them.
I read a few comments saying that the motor mounts are worth more than the car and such and whether the car is worth $3,000. On a house, generally, you usually don't get your money back for sewer work or foundation work because neither of these items show. However, on a car, if you're rebuild the whole front end except for the power steering unit and the CV joints, that adds value. If my car looked nice and had operable air conditioning and an operable radio that would also add value. If the tires are in good shape and plenty of trend that adds value $3,000 may not even be enough for 10 months worth of payment on a new 2022 Camry and probably doesn't even cover the sales tax here in Northeast Illinois which is 10% in Cook County. Plus, if you watch the Car Care Nut Channel on UA-cam, you'll see that recent Toyotas are exactly built to last as these older ones are. The key to owning an older car is you have to do most of the work yourself or else it doesn't make as much sense financially.
@6:51 After intermittently searching all evening for how to solve a clunking issue when I put my 99 Solara V6 automatic transmission into gear, a guy, do not another posted a link to come here. You are by far the best at diagnostics with the water bottle test and by moving that front-mount stud like a worn out ball-joint back and forth. You have really helped me because I think another video I watched is misdiagnosing the rear motor mount noise with a metallic clunk. I think you have shown me that I have something going wrong in my transaxle or my CV joints. I doubt I get as much vibration of a water bottle on tbe dash that you get. The sound I'm getting is like a muffled version of 2x2-in Square tube pipes hitting each other. Not good.
@@wills69charger1 yeah, when you get into your late 40's, you wonder if any load bearing automotive work underneath the car is worth risking injury or death.
@@wills69charger1 you still have this car? I'm in San Antone. I've owned TWO first generation Avalons going on 16 years now. 1st one got rear ended. Liked it so much I got another.
Appreciated the video very helpful only thing is I could appreciate the the torque setting on the CV joint what the what was the torque setting on that
Nicely done, great detailed explanation of things, I do have a question though can I replace just one of the mounts, I need to replace the transmission Mount, but I wasn’t sure if I just do the one, if it would damage anything, because the other mounts wouldn’t be loose and I’d be jacking the transmission up
If the other mounts are fine you shouldn’t damage anything depending on how high you lift I would say. You can always go back later and do the others if need be.
Hi Will, I attempted to do that damn rear motor mount today. I bought the complete mount with the casing. Don’t have a press. I couldn’t get the cv axle to break free from the bearing. Was banging for a while. A shame because I bought the entire kit for 165. Anything you did that you didn’t mention in your video to get that cv out of the bearing? I gave up and put the car back together. Also wasn’t able to get that locking ring back on because I whacked it with the hammer and it bent. Won’t go back in the slot. Is it mandatory to have it in?
From what I remember I used a short handle stubby sledge hammer. Yes, you’ll need the ring. You might need to order a new one. The rear one is definitely the hardest.
@@wills69charger1 Thanks Will. But I gave up on it. Seems like the bearing is seized in the damn thing. Anyway I need to order a new CV axle because the inner boot has cracked open from being old and tried out. Going to take the whole thing out hopefully all together with the mount carrier. Was able to reinstall the locking ring and changed the other 3 mounts.
@@wills69charger1 True that. I’m pretty good with doing my own repairs but sometimes you need a shop to get involved because lack of what’s needed to complete the job. Good thing I have friends with shops. I would have gone there in the first place but I like doing my own work. Thanks for the replies.
Oh, for a minute I thought I clicked on a “How to pass a pee test” video. But I’m just trying to replace a motor mount and I wouldn’t know anything about that others stuff.
@7:51 I took the cooling fans out when I did the front mount. It's not that hard to do and it's a lot less aggravating for me to perform this operation as one who hates to work in tight places
@17:52 It appears to me that bolt has to do with where indication. If you look at the old mount you took out it looks like that bolt gets pushed through as the bushing wears out.
@ Classic Stang brn I never heard the hammer and destroyed before. I have heard that the chrome sockets can explode like a grenade due to them being more brittle relative to impact sockets...I'm just recalling....
Does the rear engine mount bracket have an orientation mark to install the new mount? I don't want to install the new mount in the wrong position causing excessive stress and premature failure. Just curious...
Unfortunately it does not. I just eyeballed it and got it pretty close. The new mount bolt hole faces the middle of the mount bracket CV axle hole. Google images link below.
@@wills69charger1 Thanks for the fast reply! So, the new front mount was supporting the weight of the engine while you replaced the transmission mount?
I bought a new rear mount off ebay, with the whole bracket, since the one I had already put in last year crapped out. Upon trying to install it I realized that the hole the axle is supposed to go through is too small for the axle. I had to grind the bracket until I could get the axle to fit through it. I test fitted a new axle I got and it finally went in, just axle and mount by themselves. I went ahead and installed the engine mount, thinking that the axle will fit just fine, but instead it got stuck. Now I have a massive dilemma. I'm having to borrow my mom's car to go to work. Be careful with ebay products, people!
@@wills69charger1 yeah, it was a nightmare trying to get that axle out of the bracket! I way overworked myself! I'll make sure to grind that hole wider this time!
Little update: I gave up on installing the new mount. The axle just WILL NOT go in. I have re-installed the old mount and I'll just order a mount to press in instead, like I've done before.
Hi , putting the Jack directly under the Engine’s oil pan would not cause damages to the Engine pan and even break it ? I guess you should put it in the corner of the Pan ?
Congrats on money saved doing it yourself. Is the last mount you did - is same design and is in same place in the 98 Siennas? After being quoted $600 for service on all 4 mounts doesn't seem completely wack but still think few hundred too much?
@@wills69charger1 fantastic to know! I used this video to install motor mounts onto my 03 sienna, I tackled them all except the rear one. Thanks for the great video and I hope I have the same experience!
im looking at a 1996 toyota avalon xl with 80k miles and it is very clean in and out. they are asking $3000, is that a good deal? For whatever reason the KBB is less than 2K.
Possibly, but might have to do some research and see. My take is if you are already in there, might as well install the same that came out so you don’t run into any other issues down the road. Have a blessed day and thanks for watching.
I have 98 . Brake light is on . I checked B fluid . unplug B fluid . light went away . put it back on n B light back on again . what should i look for ? Please advice . Thank you .
You can first try disconnecting the battery and waiting for a couple minutes and then plug it back in. If the code comes back you might have to replace The brake fluid reservoir. There might be a short at the plug.
@@wills69charger1 oh okay, I might not need them then. I ordered these 4 parts hopefully all goes well after I get them installed. How much would someone normally charge just to install these 4 parts? I'm from California $80-120?
Seeum209 I’m not sure of the charge in California but here in Texas I would probably charge $200-400 because that inside mount is not fun to get to. It all depends on experience I would say.
3:41 I can't remove the top bolt on the center mount at all put my universal socket on it and broke it as put tension on it even my impact can't get it to loosen what am I doing wrong ?
That’s the toughest one to get. I used a pry bar on a wrench I believe. It takes some patience. I think that one made me walk away and think about life decisions lol.
Nice vid i have the same problem with the rear mount. Is it possible to replace without taking out the drive shaft by removing the central bolt and rear frame bracket it looks tight but you having done it , could it be possible if not, i will have to do the same as you. any advice would be most appreciated.
I believe it could. Best way to check is remove your driver side tire and just visually check your mounts condition. But in my opinion I would make sure the basics are ok first like your wheel and tire balanced correctly and car alignment correct.
Will’s 69 Charger I also have new lower control arms sway bar linkages strut assemblies brakes and rotors ball joints Pretty much other than the engine mounts I have a rebuilt front end And yet I still vibrate on the highway I'm going to go pick up a transmission mount today and try it
You know that bulge on top of the front engine mount? I got the same kind of engine mount in the mail from Amazon, and I had to have a friend saw that off so it would fit. Did you not have the same problem? Thanks for this informative video by the way.
No I didn’t. It’s an alignment pin I believe. It goes in a hole on the bracket it mounts to. Don’t think it’s a big deal cutting it off but I left mine on. Thanks for watching!
Hmm I didn't think that it would fit inside of anything, since the hole is farther back inside the bracket, and when I compared the old mount vs new, I noticed that they wouldn't match up. That's why I had a friend saw it off for me. But I was curious how you made it fit in yours? Could the bracket possibly have had one more hole in it? Hmmm
Hey sorry man, I just realized that your old mount actually had the same design as the new one. Mine was slightly different. Maybe they're just different on avalons with a column shifter ( mine)... Can I send you the pic of it? Edit...Mine is a 97
I bet you had a pain in the ass putting back the new one that’s wat you cut the video ,,, that’s the hard part y friend but I will give you some credit and a thumbs up 👍🏼 ;,, good video
@@ricky-sanchez we're literally talking about a 10-year difference between the two cars: the Avalon was 1998, and the Camry's 2008. Mechanically speaking the cars are pretty much the same but I get a lot more working room with the 4cyl vs the V6. The ride of the Avalon was smoother one with a much quieter engine. I think overall the difference in the driving experiences comes down to the Camry is a better street car while the Avalon was a better highway cruiser. I think it's mostly going to depend on where you do your driving. If you're going to be doing a lot of long-distance highway driving, get the Avalon or a V6 Camry, if you're mostly going to be on the streets with gridlocked traffic, get the 4cyl Camry. Keep in mind that Avalon, Camry, and ES330 are essentially the same car with the Camry being base, the Avalon being a fancier and much bigger Camry, and the ES330 being an even more luxurious Avalon. Mechanically speaking all 3 of these cars are equally reliable but I have to give a slight edge to a 4cyl Camry simply because of the working room.
@@Eyeofnelms Interesting. I was looking for a Camry just like yours last year, and instead found a 1998 es300 that needed some work. Before this I had a 1996 Toyota Camry 4 cyl, and a 2005 Buick lesabre. I heard the LeSabre was suppose to be a big econo lux car, with the same ride Dynamics as an Avalon. I always wondered if the Avalon was better than the Camry. The Buick rode nice, but had some really silly transmission problems, so I sold it.
@Rysn C Outside of the "Rust Belt", removing the CV axle is not a major chore as he demonstrated in this video. Speedcar UA-cam channel lives in the Rust Belt in Canada reportedly as I do in Chicago and he says that the axle gets corroded to the carrier bearing and needs to be cut out to perform this job. Evidently, Japan is not in a rust belt.
Fun fact instead of buying a impact drill & or dropping the car back down to take lugs off just lock up rim with a breaker bar or have friend hold break down or E breaks if they apply to u or grenade it haha ya get the big picture say ur money for the pregnant strippers and leftover beer foams mixed in a barrel
super great job - especially showing the complications with some of the harder bolts that alot of videos skim over - thanks so much, hoping to try this out this weekend
Thank you! Good luck on that project. Thanks for watching.
So glad I saw this. I been racking my brain to figure out why my engine vibrates when in drive. I thought the dealer messed up the harmonic balancer when they did the timing belt. I took it back to show them the vibration and three mechanics had no idea what would cause it.
Haha! Thanks for sharing! I’m glad this video helped so many people.
It’s the same procedure on my 2000 Avalon. I saw this video a while ago and it was very helpful. Thanks
Very well done. Extremely informative saving the installer time with knowledge of tool type and sizes.
Thank you! Thanks for watching
Great job. These type of videos are priceless.
Thank you Tony. Thanks for watching!
Thanks Will. Tom. My daughter has a '69 GTX. My son has a '70 cutlass and a Camry. Great looking charger. The blend of the rear window "sail" into the rear quarter is the most gorgeous part. IMHO. A vynyl top ruins it.
Beautiful cars! And thank you! Agreed, the rear quarter is my favorite as well.
WOW SO DETAILED, WONDERFUL TECHNIQUES. 👍👍👍
Thank you. Thanks for watching
Cowboys lanyard!
Also, your smoke alarms battery is low...
Good job, this is the first v6 motor mound video I have found, thank you!
Yes Cowboys fan here! Yes sir that has been addressed lol. Thanks for watching!
This is what I did. There are 4 bolts on each bracket. On the bracket that mounts to frame I used a grinder to cut off those 4 bolts that stick out way too long. It makes it much easier to remount it. Besides they are smooth for an inch and then the threads start. Better shorter. More room too maneuver. Next big heavy bracket has too little studs that stick out for fitment alignment. Take the rear one out. Much easier moving it around. I left front one on but ground it down rounded end so it easily fits into alignment hole to help align the four bolts that connect it to engine block. Look at that motor mount if it looks OK don't change it. It took me 4 hours to take out 4 bolts and the brackets. I had to buy an 3/8 bending articulated ratchet to get top inner bolt that connected to engine. And a small cheater pipe for more leverage. What a batch. Hope this helps.
Thanks for sharing
Good video on a proper rear mount replacement. The hacks attempting not to remove the CV axle are real struggles.
Thanks for watching
Thanks so much for the great video Will. Found out today that my son's 2001 Camry V6 has some engine mount issues!! Great to see exactly what and where they are and understand what's involved in replacing them.
Appreciate it. Glad I’m able to help. Thanks for watching!
That was a great video brother. Thank you for your time. Appreciate it. Look forward to more videos, especially about Avalon’s
Thank you very much and thanks for watching!
I read a few comments saying that the motor mounts are worth more than the car and such and whether the car is worth $3,000.
On a house, generally, you usually don't get your money back for sewer work or foundation work because neither of these items show.
However, on a car, if you're rebuild the whole front end except for the power steering unit and the CV joints, that adds value. If my car looked nice and had operable air conditioning and an operable radio that would also add value. If the tires are in good shape and plenty of trend that adds value
$3,000 may not even be enough for 10 months worth of payment on a new 2022 Camry and probably doesn't even cover the sales tax here in Northeast Illinois which is 10% in Cook County.
Plus, if you watch the Car Care Nut Channel on UA-cam, you'll see that recent Toyotas are exactly built to last as these older ones are. The key to owning an older car is you have to do most of the work yourself or else it doesn't make as much sense financially.
@6:51
After intermittently searching all evening for how to solve a clunking issue when I put my 99 Solara V6 automatic transmission into gear, a guy, do not another posted a link to come here.
You are by far the best at diagnostics with the water bottle test and by moving that front-mount stud like a worn out ball-joint back and forth.
You have really helped me because I think another video I watched is misdiagnosing the rear motor mount noise with a metallic clunk. I think you have shown me that I have something going wrong in my transaxle or my CV joints. I doubt I get as much vibration of a water bottle on tbe dash that you get.
The sound I'm getting is like a muffled version of 2x2-in Square tube pipes hitting each other. Not good.
What a great idea thank you for sharing this important information listening from Brownwood Texas
Thanks for watching! I have a good friend that’s from Brownwood lives in Zephyr now.
That was great detail thanks for taking the time to learn me something be safe
Thanks for watching
That top transmission mount bolt keeps the mount from falling apart and the trans shifting.
Outstanding video. You were spot on Man. Good DIY
Thanks for watching!
Great video !! Took you time explained very well
Thank you for watching
Have to tackle a 1997 Lexus , same drill, thanks for the video.
Awesome! Thanks for watching
Nice work man. I'd have done this myself but I was too exhausted after replacing the timing belt on my '99, so I just gave it to the mech.
Don’t blame you. It’s not easy to do. Thanks for watching!
@@wills69charger1 yeah, when you get into your late 40's, you wonder if any load bearing automotive work underneath the car is worth risking injury or death.
Agreed! I’m getting there myself.
@@wills69charger1 you still have this car? I'm in San Antone. I've owned TWO first generation Avalons going on 16 years now. 1st one got rear ended. Liked it so much I got another.
Yes sir still have it. Still going strong.
not my car but thank you for the steps you took was very helpful
Glad it helped
Appreciated the video very helpful only thing is I could appreciate the the torque setting on the CV joint what the what was the torque setting on that
The 30mm nut torque is 217ft lb
Thank you Richard
Great 👍 video! I’ll be performing this job soon on my 94 Lexus which is similar to the V6 Camry motor mounts...By the way, I’m loving the Charger...
Thank you. Nice! Didn’t know they were similar. Thanks for watching my videos.
Nicely done, great detailed explanation of things, I do have a question though can I replace just one of the mounts, I need to replace the transmission Mount, but I wasn’t sure if I just do the one, if it would damage anything, because the other mounts wouldn’t be loose and I’d be jacking the transmission up
If the other mounts are fine you shouldn’t damage anything depending on how high you lift I would say. You can always go back later and do the others if need be.
@@wills69charger1 ok thank you for your help
I can't find the kit with all the mounts on amazon.
great video.
Type in “Toyota Avalon motor mounts” on the search bar. It should be the first one that pops up. A picture of all four will show. Thanks for watching!
Hi Will, I attempted to do that damn rear motor mount today. I bought the complete mount with the casing. Don’t have a press. I couldn’t get the cv axle to break free from the bearing. Was banging for a while. A shame because I bought the entire kit for 165. Anything you did that you didn’t mention in your video to get that cv out of the bearing? I gave up and put the car back together. Also wasn’t able to get that locking ring back on because I whacked it with the hammer and it bent. Won’t go back in the slot. Is it mandatory to have it in?
From what I remember I used a short handle stubby sledge hammer. Yes, you’ll need the ring. You might need to order a new one. The rear one is definitely the hardest.
@@wills69charger1
Thanks Will. But I gave up on it. Seems like the bearing is seized in the damn thing. Anyway I need to order a new CV axle because the inner boot has cracked open from being old and tried out. Going to take the whole thing out hopefully all together with the mount carrier. Was able to reinstall the locking ring and changed the other 3 mounts.
Kudos to you, at least you gave it a shot. Many people don’t. I learned many lesson by breaking stuff. It’s part of the learning process
@@wills69charger1 True that. I’m pretty good with doing my own repairs but sometimes you need a shop to get involved because lack of what’s needed to complete the job. Good thing I have friends with shops. I would have gone there in the first place but I like doing my own work. Thanks for the replies.
Good Video man very detailed and simple appreciate the money saving tips
Thank you 🙏🏼 glad it helped. Thanks for watching.
Indeed!
Oh, for a minute I thought I clicked on a “How to pass a pee test” video.
But I’m just trying to replace a motor mount and I wouldn’t know anything about that others stuff.
@7:51
I took the cooling fans out when I did the front mount. It's not that hard to do and it's a lot less aggravating for me to perform this operation as one who hates to work in tight places
never never jack under the transmission pan ! it destroys the transmission internals
I need to get this kit since I’m just putting in a new/used engine now!!!!
Yes sir, no better time.
@17:52
It appears to me that bolt has to do with where indication. If you look at the old mount you took out it looks like that bolt gets pushed through as the bushing wears out.
Awesome video. Very helpful. Thanks.
Thank you. Thanks for watching
Note to self, don't use chrome sockets on impact tools it slowly destroys the hammer and anvil inside.
True, sometimes you gotta get it done with what you have
@ Classic Stang brn
I never heard the hammer and destroyed before. I have heard that the chrome sockets can explode like a grenade due to them being more brittle relative to impact sockets...I'm just recalling....
Awesome video! Extremely helpful! Thanks!
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching!
Agreed
Thank you!
Thanks 4 the video - very helpful.
Thanks for watching!
Just bought a 96 white on tan that has under 80k on it, found some decent OEM replacement on eBay, wish me luck.
Great find! Good luck!
@@wills69charger1 I might have to make it two weekends. One for the first 3, the 2nd weekend for the pressed center bearing.
Good plan. That one is the most time consuming.
super great Job my friend 👍🏻👍🏻 , muy buen trabajo, exelente...
¡Muchas Gracias! Thanks for watching
Déjate de mamadas Carlos😂😂
Does the rear engine mount bracket have an orientation mark to install the new mount? I don't want to install the new mount in the wrong position causing excessive stress and premature failure. Just curious...
Unfortunately it does not. I just eyeballed it and got it pretty close. The new mount bolt hole faces the middle of the mount bracket CV axle hole. Google images link below.
www.ebay.com/itm/REAR-ENGINE-MOUNT-FOR-1997-2001-LEXUS-TOYOTA-CAMRY-V6-FAST-FREE-SHIPPING-/222554368036
@@wills69charger1 Thanks Will for your speedy reply and your video. It'll make my job easier.
My pleasure. Thanks for watching!
I'm hoping that the 92 Camry 2.2 is easier
would the mount where the axle goes thru be the one causing the vibration? This seems like the harder one to install
The wear on all of them collectively can cause the vibration but yes that one was the most damaged on my car.
Dude ive watched this video so many times. I just finished replacing the 3rd mount on my 96 camry.....i really dont wanna do the last one lol
Lol that last one is the ass kicker for sure.
@@wills69charger1 Gotta separate the boys from the men somehow
Lol damn right
how do you position the new bushing into bracket. I noticed the hole is off-centered.
I marked where the old one sat before I pressed it out and pressed it in the same way. You can reference pictures if you already pressed it out.
Hey man, How was the engine being supported while you moved the jack from the oil pan to the transmission?
I installed the new mounts before I moved the jack.
@@wills69charger1 Thanks for the fast reply! So, the new front mount was supporting the weight of the engine while you replaced the transmission mount?
I bought a new rear mount off ebay, with the whole bracket, since the one I had already put in last year crapped out. Upon trying to install it I realized that the hole the axle is supposed to go through is too small for the axle. I had to grind the bracket until I could get the axle to fit through it. I test fitted a new axle I got and it finally went in, just axle and mount by themselves. I went ahead and installed the engine mount, thinking that the axle will fit just fine, but instead it got stuck. Now I have a massive dilemma. I'm having to borrow my mom's car to go to work. Be careful with ebay products, people!
Wow good to know
@@wills69charger1 yeah, it was a nightmare trying to get that axle out of the bracket! I way overworked myself! I'll make sure to grind that hole wider this time!
Little update: I gave up on installing the new mount. The axle just WILL NOT go in. I have re-installed the old mount and I'll just order a mount to press in instead, like I've done before.
@@authenticalmir2134 how did it turn out?
Great job. What company do you recomend for motor mounts
Bought them off Amazon. Can’t remember the exact brand.
@@wills69charger1 OK, no problem
Hi , putting the Jack directly under the Engine’s oil pan would not cause damages to the
Engine pan and even break it ? I guess you should put it in the corner of the Pan ?
I used a wooden block in between. You are not putting the whole weight since you are just lifting it a bit. Just enough for mounts.
Excellent video man !!
Thank you
How much do they normally charge to press the last one ? I’m getting mines done tomorrow
Not sure brotha. I did mine on my own. I would think no more than $100.
Thank you sir! Saved me alot of pain
Thanks for watching!
Congrats on money saved doing it yourself. Is the last mount you did - is same design and is in same place in the 98 Siennas? After being quoted $600 for service on all 4 mounts doesn't seem completely wack but still think few hundred too much?
Yes it’s the last one. I’m not sure if it’s the same sorry
Well I'm out of luck. Tired to take the cv out with and press it. Can't because the cv has to be out first before the mount can.
Hey man, it’s three years and I’m wondering how are the motor mounts holding?? Lots of people on Amazon said they went out after a year
Good question, I drove the car for two years with no issues. Unfortunately, I no longer own it and sold it after that.
@@wills69charger1 fantastic to know! I used this video to install motor mounts onto my 03 sienna, I tackled them all except the rear one. Thanks for the great video and I hope I have the same experience!
Glad I could help. Thanks for watching!
How do I find the full motor mount kit on Amazon I could only find 3 all together the rear was separate I have a 2002 Toyota Avalon
You might have to buy separate. Also try rockauto.com
im looking at a 1996 toyota avalon xl with 80k miles and it is very clean in and out. they are asking $3000, is that a good deal? For whatever reason the KBB is less than 2K.
Seems a bit high 🤔 but they are good cars mine has over 225,000 miles still going strong.
@@wills69charger1 cool thanks, hope you join the 300,000 mile club with your car
Thank you
Ima just replace the first 3 😁 will the vibration stop?
Worth a shot
Would you happen to know if an 03 Avalon has the same rear mount?
I believe it’s different for that year
What are the specs of the 17 mm bolts on the front engine mount I lost the bolts and need to replace it
Anthony p Not sure. I would go to a junk yard and pull them off a similar car. Or go to the dealership and ask them.
Great video and details
Thank you very much and thanks for watching!
My 03 Avalon has an active mount on the front lower with vac lines Can i plug those lines and just install a regular mount ?
I’m not sure. I would go back with the same that I took out but that’s just me.
@@wills69charger1 ok,those are about 100 bucks i was thinking i could get out the cheap way
Possibly, but might have to do some research and see. My take is if you are already in there, might as well install the same that came out so you don’t run into any other issues down the road. Have a blessed day and thanks for watching.
@@wills69charger1 ok thanks for the video great job!!
I have 98 . Brake light is on . I checked B fluid . unplug B fluid . light went away . put it back on n B light back on again . what should i look for ? Please advice . Thank you .
You might need to replace it
@@wills69charger1 can you say what to replace .
You can first try disconnecting the battery and waiting for a couple minutes and then plug it back in. If the code comes back you might have to replace The brake fluid reservoir. There might be a short at the plug.
@@wills69charger1 thank you
Besides the mounts what type of bolts do I need to buy and how many?
Seeum209 I reused all the mount bolts. No need to purchase new ones if they are in good condition.
@@wills69charger1 alright thanks, do you think shock absorber mounts might be necessary ?
Seeum209 not unless your car bottoms out real bad and has a bad ride bounces a lot.
@@wills69charger1 oh okay, I might not need them then. I ordered these 4 parts hopefully all goes well after I get them installed. How much would someone normally charge just to install these 4 parts? I'm from California $80-120?
Seeum209 I’m not sure of the charge in California but here in Texas I would probably charge $200-400 because that inside mount is not fun to get to. It all depends on experience I would say.
Good ol Easter Sunday's 😂
Adrian Duarte 😅 never forget
I have a vib on the highway around 60 ish it get worse when on the gas
Zachary Leonard have you checked if your tires need to be balanced?
got it please send me picture of the piece from the electrical box you took |" The breaker"
3:41 I can't remove the top bolt on the center mount at all put my universal socket on it and broke it as put tension on it even my impact can't get it to loosen what am I doing wrong ?
That’s the toughest one to get. I used a pry bar on a wrench I believe. It takes some patience. I think that one made me walk away and think about life decisions lol.
@@wills69charger1 Thanks for the speedy reply guess I'll go outside and try her again 😂
Just got it off thanks Mr. Charger 👌
Thank you for watching. Have a blessed day
Nice vid i have the same problem with the rear mount. Is it possible to replace without taking out the drive shaft by removing the central bolt and rear frame bracket it looks tight but you having done it , could it be possible if not, i will have to do the same as you. any advice would be most appreciated.
Not sure. The way I did it seemed to be the quickest and easiest
Mine does the opposite it vibrates when idle & stops while driving. Anybody know what this means??
Motor mounts and sounds like a bad serpentine belt or tensioner also.
How much did the shop charge you to get that rear mount pressed out and press the new one in?
I pressed it in and out myself sir. I can’t imagine it being that much to do. Maybe $50 at the most but not sure.
Those parts, are they holding up? Usually aftermarket suspension parts are risky
Yes sir. So far so good. Daily driven everyday no problem. Time will tell I guess. Thanks for watching!
Great video !
Thank you! Thanks for watching.
Will the trans mount cause highway vibrations?
I believe it could. Best way to check is remove your driver side tire and just visually check your mounts condition. But in my opinion I would make sure the basics are ok first like your wheel and tire balanced correctly and car alignment correct.
Will’s 69 Charger yes ive got new tires and getting them balanced does not help the vib i can move the trans around with a pry bar at this mount
Oh ok yeah shouldn’t be able to move it that easily. Good news is that mount is one of the easy ones to replace and cheap.
Will’s 69 Charger I done the one under the exhaust manifold on the front that 1 was not much fun
Will’s 69 Charger I also have new lower control arms sway bar linkages strut assemblies brakes and rotors ball joints Pretty much other than the engine mounts I have a rebuilt front end And yet I still vibrate on the highway I'm going to go pick up a transmission mount today and try it
Great job
Thanks for watching
Great video, thank you. That rear mount is an awful design!
Bobman84 you’re welcome. Yes bad bad design 😬 thanks for watching
Will’s 69 Charger No problem. I have to do this on my Australian 2003 Avalon (1999 USA shape) :(
Wow that’s interesting. If you have any questions let me know. I’ll help as much as I can.
Thank you!
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching!
Motor mounts worth more than the car
Lol that’s funny
@@wills69charger1 Truth
Thank you
My pleasure
Thanks
Thanks for watching
Is this a v6?
Yes it is
You know that bulge on top of the front engine mount? I got the same kind of engine mount in the mail from Amazon, and I had to have a friend saw that off so it would fit. Did you not have the same problem? Thanks for this informative video by the way.
No I didn’t. It’s an alignment pin I believe. It goes in a hole on the bracket it mounts to. Don’t think it’s a big deal cutting it off but I left mine on. Thanks for watching!
Hmm I didn't think that it would fit inside of anything, since the hole is farther back inside the bracket, and when I compared the old mount vs new, I noticed that they wouldn't match up. That's why I had a friend saw it off for me. But I was curious how you made it fit in yours? Could the bracket possibly have had one more hole in it? Hmmm
Hey sorry man, I just realized that your old mount actually had the same design as the new one. Mine was slightly different. Maybe they're just different on avalons with a column shifter ( mine)... Can I send you the pic of it? Edit...Mine is a 97
Damn good job!!!
Thank you! Thanks for watching.
Your somke detector needs batteries.
I bet you had a pain in the ass putting back the new one that’s wat you cut the video ,,, that’s the hard part y friend but I will give you some credit and a thumbs up 👍🏼 ;,, good video
Oh for sure. It definitely wasn’t easy. If I wouldn’t have edited the video it would have been hours long. Thanks for watching
Will’s 69 Charger it take me 35 minutes and wat I did was making one en like a funnel and it wen in then one time in I Bend it back
💪
rly cramped in there... I guess 4 cylinder engines have 1 benefit.
Avalon is six cylinders.
@@ricky-sanchez I know. I had an Avalon just like this. It was destroyed in an accident. I Bought a later model Camry as a replacement with a 4 Cyl.
@@Eyeofnelms How was the Camry compared to the Avalon?
@@ricky-sanchez we're literally talking about a 10-year difference between the two cars: the Avalon was 1998, and the Camry's 2008. Mechanically speaking the cars are pretty much the same but I get a lot more working room with the 4cyl vs the V6. The ride of the Avalon was smoother one with a much quieter engine. I think overall the difference in the driving experiences comes down to the Camry is a better street car while the Avalon was a better highway cruiser. I think it's mostly going to depend on where you do your driving. If you're going to be doing a lot of long-distance highway driving, get the Avalon or a V6 Camry, if you're mostly going to be on the streets with gridlocked traffic, get the 4cyl Camry.
Keep in mind that Avalon, Camry, and ES330 are essentially the same car with the Camry being base, the Avalon being a fancier and much bigger Camry, and the ES330 being an even more luxurious Avalon. Mechanically speaking all 3 of these cars are equally reliable but I have to give a slight edge to a 4cyl Camry simply because of the working room.
@@Eyeofnelms Interesting. I was looking for a Camry just like yours last year, and instead found a 1998 es300 that needed some work. Before this I had a 1996 Toyota Camry 4 cyl, and a 2005 Buick lesabre. I heard the LeSabre was suppose to be a big econo lux car, with the same ride Dynamics as an Avalon. I always wondered if the Avalon was better than the Camry. The Buick rode nice, but had some really silly transmission problems, so I sold it.
Having a motor mount with an axle running inside of it could possibly be one of the stupidest things Toyota ever did, what a pain.
Agreed
How about another bad design by hiding PCV deep behind the engine and the firewall on Camry 2010.
@Rysn C
Outside of the "Rust Belt", removing the CV axle is not a major chore as he demonstrated in this video.
Speedcar UA-cam channel lives in the Rust Belt in Canada reportedly as I do in Chicago and he says that the axle gets corroded to the carrier bearing and needs to be cut out to perform this job. Evidently, Japan is not in a rust belt.
😢 looks like you pressed the new one in about 180 differences
Good job I made. A mistake
Fun fact instead of buying a impact drill & or dropping the car back down to take lugs off just lock up rim with a breaker bar or have friend hold break down or E breaks if they apply to u or grenade it haha ya get the big picture say ur money for the pregnant strippers and leftover beer foams mixed in a barrel
Want to sell the 69 in the garage?
low voice increase volume
That rear mount is fkn ridiculous having to take apart practically half the car.
Yes that rear mount is the hardest to get to.
Is this guy sleeping? He mumbles so much
Not asleep. That’s just how I speak. Will work on that 👍
Thanks