This is the best/most descriptive video I've been able to find on this launch technique. Will be on radials for the first time at an upcoming event and look forward to trying to learn launching!
No wonder they call you the G.O.A.T. on the 5th gen pages. Thank you for sharing you're knowledge and experience. For saving so many of us the headache, time, and money. 🤘👌👍
Great Video! Just purchased a stock ‘15 SS manual and found this video looking for ways to work on launch. Very valuable info and well thought out. Thanks!
All the detail is in the video. I have released a little bit shorter newer version about 6 months ago. Basically you're going to stop in the pre-staged beam, hold the emergency brake on with the release depressed so it does not stay on by itself, start lightly dragging the clutch, we use the emergency brake off until you light the full stage beam, pull the brake tight again, go to Iaunch rpm, and then when it's green release the brake as you make a quick but smooth and deliberate clutch release.
Mr Andrew, I need your help crushing a 5.0 from a dig. Mine is a 12' SS with 3.45 gears, headers, CAI and the SS3 cam from GPI with all the supporting mods like LS2 tensioner, CHE truns, hardened push rods, btr springs, melling oil pump and a couple other things. Stock clutch. Nothing too crazy. Making 450rwhp. When you let the clutch out to where it is barely engaging, do you hold the e brake and let the rpms go up to around 2 or 3k before easing off the clutch into the launch? My car destroys the 5.0 from any roll but I just can't launch from a hole quick enough. I'm on OEM 1LE wheels with 315s out back. I'll be honest, ever since doing the SS3, it feels like maybe my 0 to 60 has suffered. Is it because the SS3 isn't a good combo with 3.45s? I do a lot of interstate driving so I kept the long gears for that reason alone. I'm tempted to find someone to install the 3.91 GM gears but damn it, it's expensive as hell and I don't know if it'll help much with my launching predicament.
There is a lot to unpack here. I would think your difficulties are likely a combination of several things, including gearing, tire choice, and clutch release. You did not mention what tire you have on the car, but guessing at the wheel type and size I suspect it's some form of a moderately hard street tire. No matter what you do those are going to be a challenge to make work exceptionally well from a standing start on an unprepped street. If you're very serious about improving your performance from a dig then you'll need to think seriously about a wheel and tire change to compliment that sort of racing. In terms of gearing it is very hard to find a convincing argument against the 4.10 for naturally aspirated manual transmission fifth gen Camaro's. Rather than try to overwhelm you with information in this reply I have a article I've written on the subject that I would suggest you take a long look at. Here is the link: gwatneyperformance.com/gearing-and-converter-options-for-camaro-and-corvette-part-1-manual-cars/ Finally, the launch technique itself is absolutely important. I will start at the line with the car at idle, in gear, and pull on the emergency brake firmly with my thumb depressed on the release so that only remains on while I am holding it. Then I will start to release the clutch just enough to barely get the Driveline pre-loaded with a little bit of drag. Then I will set my launch rpm, and that's a huge variable dependent on the surface you're on, the tire, the gearing, the engine combination, etc. I can't tell you what you need because of the high number of variables involved, you'll just need to experiment and practice, which is probably the biggest key in this entire equation. Once I have my preload and launch rpm established I make a smooth release of the clutch and brake with a smooth application of throttle. With sub optimal traction you may need a fairly long slip with less than full throttle. Your long gear ratio is amplifying the length of the slip needed as well.
@@andrewcammer2535 Thank you, Mr Cammer. You are the man. I will check out your link. I really didn't expect such a thorough response to me. The Camaro community is lucky to have you and GPI. I definitely feel like the gearing and tire are my downfalls here now that Insee this response. I wish I had found this video and link BEFORE I did the mods. I have the hendrix diff bushings and the LPW cover. BMR subframe bush, toe rods trailing arms etc... I damn sure should have went with better gears or trutrac at the time but I was ignorant to that. I'm indeed running michelin pilot sport street tires as well. Time to search for a drag pack and bookmark some 4.11s
Hey I used to bracket race a street bike about 20 years ago. Just got my stock ‘15 SS manual and would like to start bracket racing again. I recently moved to VA so don’t know anyone here. Anyway, I don’t care much about speed just consistency and need to drive it home so that I can go to work haha. Anyway, what RPM should I practice launching at? I think you can mess with the traction control and put it in launch mode but I’ve watched videos of guys doing that and getting massive wheel hop. Like I said this is my DD and need to drive it home from track. In your opinion what approach do you recommend?
It depends some on what sort of time you want to target, what tire you're going to run, and what power the car makes. You've got the right idea on avoiding wheel-hop at all costs, that's the fastest way to kill one of these rear-ends! I'll assume this is a fairly stock car on street tires. I would target 2500rpm as a starting place - most street tires will take a moderate launch from there. For bracket racing, something like a 2-step would be very beneficial for consistency. Consistency in your throttle application and clutch release is going to be key in making consistent passes - eliminating the throttle as a variable input (using a 2-step) would help with that.
I believe the 26" drag radials are too small with my 3.91s. I tried them and couldn't slip the clutch enough best I could do was a 1.99 60' 7.9 @93 12.0 @120-121. It would bog or wheel hop so I switched to 28s. 1.82 60' 7.55 @95. My car just seems to like the 28s alot better. I know I need more seat time.
Without a doubt the 28" tire is substantially more forgiving and easier to launch on. You trade off a lot of traction and forgiveness for a little gear ratio with the 26" setup - it's an acquired taste for sure.
It's run from the clutch. This car is nice, it's a sensor rather than a switch, so you can be very precise about where in the clutch pedal travel you have it release. I have mine unlatch fairly early so I get just a little bit of a flash into my clutch release.
@@crowsgarage6669 you need an extra controller, the ctap, plus the lnc2000 to do it with the Lingenfelter stuff, but you can accomplish the same thing.
It's been 11.67. With the back seats out, and have the cutouts right below the truck well, it sounds pretty wicked inside the car. Short tires and short gears make it really get through the shifts quick too - so it sounds faster than it is. It's only a ~480whp trying to move a 4100lbs car - but it is a good time. There are some full pass videos on my channel you can check out.
@@andrewcammer2535 still that is awesome.. yeah it seems gears are help these cars.. I cant wait to get my 3.91s is my ls3 car.. I'm running a 28inch tire instead of 28.7 factory size
That is a Speed Hut OBDII shift lift, which I am pretty sure it just a Holley OBDII shift light rebranded. It's really nice, because you can set your shift points by gear, which gives you better anticipation for the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts, without making your 3-4 shift early.
The stock shifter is just fine with me. The mgw would be the only aftermarket option I would consider. This had an after-market Hurst in it when I bought it, and it was awful.
Hey Rob - all that info is in the video. On drag radials my full weight car works good leaving from around 4800rpm (on a 2-step, will be more just off the acclerator pedal holding an RPM). I like around 18psi on drag radials. Regular street tires don't need to air down that much, maybe to 22-25psi.
This is the best/most descriptive video I've been able to find on this launch technique. Will be on radials for the first time at an upcoming event and look forward to trying to learn launching!
Thank you. Best of luck, start out easy and work up the aggression as you get more comfortable.
No wonder they call you the G.O.A.T. on the 5th gen pages.
Thank you for sharing you're knowledge and experience. For saving so many of us the headache, time, and money. 🤘👌👍
This is your best video I would continue doing these kind of videos.
You are a legend! Super valuable information and such a humble dude in providing your experiences! I appreciate you man!!!
Great Video! Just purchased a stock ‘15 SS manual and found this video looking for ways to work on launch. Very valuable info and well thought out. Thanks!
Amazing tips and great knowledge! I'm sending to all my buddies.
Priceless information. Appreciate it.
I belive you sold this car I purchased it in newyork. I am happy I bought it my wife love it and drives It daily
Nope, must be a different one, this is still in my garage.
Great job man. Going to give this a try for sure. Much appreciated, keep it up.
YES Great video*** you are a Camaro launch Guru Your Camaro is Very cool. I have a rally Yellow*****Thanks a lot
Similar method for the 6l80. Looking forward to using the preload at the track next time
Awesome - glad it was helpful.
Awesome info, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the video, very helpful. keep posting!
Andrew Cammer your a god! Keep it up buddy!
Wow! That was a good video.
so can you do a quick list step by step how to preload please?
All the detail is in the video. I have released a little bit shorter newer version about 6 months ago. Basically you're going to stop in the pre-staged beam, hold the emergency brake on with the release depressed so it does not stay on by itself, start lightly dragging the clutch, we use the emergency brake off until you light the full stage beam, pull the brake tight again, go to Iaunch rpm, and then when it's green release the brake as you make a quick but smooth and deliberate clutch release.
Would love to see you start a pod cast later on once people realize acammer made a UA-cam.. we gonna get faster now fellas! 😂🔥🔥🔥
That would be fun - just need more time in the schedule. I post when I can, which isn't too often.
A lot of great info.
Thanks for sharing.
I'm glad it was helpful - you're welcome!
Mr Andrew, I need your help crushing a 5.0 from a dig. Mine is a 12' SS with 3.45 gears, headers, CAI and the SS3 cam from GPI with all the supporting mods like LS2 tensioner, CHE truns, hardened push rods, btr springs, melling oil pump and a couple other things. Stock clutch. Nothing too crazy. Making 450rwhp.
When you let the clutch out to where it is barely engaging, do you hold the e brake and let the rpms go up to around 2 or 3k before easing off the clutch into the launch? My car destroys the 5.0 from any roll but I just can't launch from a hole quick enough. I'm on OEM 1LE wheels with 315s out back. I'll be honest, ever since doing the SS3, it feels like maybe my 0 to 60 has suffered. Is it because the SS3 isn't a good combo with 3.45s? I do a lot of interstate driving so I kept the long gears for that reason alone. I'm tempted to find someone to install the 3.91 GM gears but damn it, it's expensive as hell and I don't know if it'll help much with my launching predicament.
There is a lot to unpack here. I would think your difficulties are likely a combination of several things, including gearing, tire choice, and clutch release. You did not mention what tire you have on the car, but guessing at the wheel type and size I suspect it's some form of a moderately hard street tire. No matter what you do those are going to be a challenge to make work exceptionally well from a standing start on an unprepped street. If you're very serious about improving your performance from a dig then you'll need to think seriously about a wheel and tire change to compliment that sort of racing.
In terms of gearing it is very hard to find a convincing argument against the 4.10 for naturally aspirated manual transmission fifth gen Camaro's. Rather than try to overwhelm you with information in this reply I have a article I've written on the subject that I would suggest you take a long look at. Here is the link: gwatneyperformance.com/gearing-and-converter-options-for-camaro-and-corvette-part-1-manual-cars/
Finally, the launch technique itself is absolutely important. I will start at the line with the car at idle, in gear, and pull on the emergency brake firmly with my thumb depressed on the release so that only remains on while I am holding it. Then I will start to release the clutch just enough to barely get the Driveline pre-loaded with a little bit of drag. Then I will set my launch rpm, and that's a huge variable dependent on the surface you're on, the tire, the gearing, the engine combination, etc. I can't tell you what you need because of the high number of variables involved, you'll just need to experiment and practice, which is probably the biggest key in this entire equation. Once I have my preload and launch rpm established I make a smooth release of the clutch and brake with a smooth application of throttle. With sub optimal traction you may need a fairly long slip with less than full throttle. Your long gear ratio is amplifying the length of the slip needed as well.
@@andrewcammer2535 Thank you, Mr Cammer. You are the man. I will check out your link. I really didn't expect such a thorough response to me. The Camaro community is lucky to have you and GPI.
I definitely feel like the gearing and tire are my downfalls here now that Insee this response. I wish I had found this video and link BEFORE I did the mods. I have the hendrix diff bushings and the LPW cover. BMR subframe bush, toe rods trailing arms etc... I damn sure should have went with better gears or trutrac at the time but I was ignorant to that.
I'm indeed running michelin pilot sport street tires as well. Time to search for a drag pack and bookmark some 4.11s
How are u activating your 2 step if its on the clutch switch will it disengage the 2 step when u preload it? Thanks
I use an N2MB, which uses the clutch sensor, so I can dial it in to exactly where in the pedal travel I want it.
Thanks for sharing!
Awesome video. Thanks for posting!
Hello friend how could you advise me to increase the power of my V6 LT camera
@@mqvkradc9660 I unfortunately don't know much about that platform.
Well done.
Very informative , thanks 💯
Hey I used to bracket race a street bike about 20 years ago. Just got my stock ‘15 SS manual and would like to start bracket racing again. I recently moved to VA so don’t know anyone here. Anyway, I don’t care much about speed just consistency and need to drive it home so that I can go to work haha. Anyway, what RPM should I practice launching at? I think you can mess with the traction control and put it in launch mode but I’ve watched videos of guys doing that and getting massive wheel hop. Like I said this is my DD and need to drive it home from track. In your opinion what approach do you recommend?
It depends some on what sort of time you want to target, what tire you're going to run, and what power the car makes. You've got the right idea on avoiding wheel-hop at all costs, that's the fastest way to kill one of these rear-ends!
I'll assume this is a fairly stock car on street tires. I would target 2500rpm as a starting place - most street tires will take a moderate launch from there. For bracket racing, something like a 2-step would be very beneficial for consistency. Consistency in your throttle application and clutch release is going to be key in making consistent passes - eliminating the throttle as a variable input (using a 2-step) would help with that.
Thank you 🙏
Great advice
I believe the 26" drag radials are too small with my 3.91s. I tried them and couldn't slip the clutch enough best I could do was a 1.99 60' 7.9 @93 12.0 @120-121. It would bog or wheel hop so I switched to 28s. 1.82 60' 7.55 @95. My car just seems to like the 28s alot better. I know I need more seat time.
Without a doubt the 28" tire is substantially more forgiving and easier to launch on. You trade off a lot of traction and forgiveness for a little gear ratio with the 26" setup - it's an acquired taste for sure.
Good video
1 and 2 gears are useless in my 2010 2.9 whippled with cam. Any tips? About 650whp
What's the rest of the setup (tires, rear gear ratio, manual or auto)?
do you have your two step wired to the clutch or ebrake?
It's run from the clutch. This car is nice, it's a sensor rather than a switch, so you can be very precise about where in the clutch pedal travel you have it release. I have mine unlatch fairly early so I get just a little bit of a flash into my clutch release.
@@andrewcammer2535 will that work for the lingenfelter box as well
@@crowsgarage6669 you need an extra controller, the ctap, plus the lnc2000 to do it with the Lingenfelter stuff, but you can accomplish the same thing.
@@andrewcammer2535 i have i believe the lnc-002? its just the two step no ignition timing control. would it still work?
@@crowsgarage6669 Yea same idea. I think it's LNC-003 though.
Jeezus that sounds healthy.. what do you run in the 1/4 ?
It's been 11.67. With the back seats out, and have the cutouts right below the truck well, it sounds pretty wicked inside the car. Short tires and short gears make it really get through the shifts quick too - so it sounds faster than it is. It's only a ~480whp trying to move a 4100lbs car - but it is a good time. There are some full pass videos on my channel you can check out.
@@andrewcammer2535 still that is awesome.. yeah it seems gears are help these cars.. I cant wait to get my 3.91s is my ls3 car.. I'm running a 28inch tire instead of 28.7 factory size
That is a nasty Camaro
where did you get your shift light?
That is a Speed Hut OBDII shift lift, which I am pretty sure it just a Holley OBDII shift light rebranded. It's really nice, because you can set your shift points by gear, which gives you better anticipation for the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts, without making your 3-4 shift early.
Great video thanks!
Thanks for the help
What shifter do you like to use?
The stock shifter is just fine with me. The mgw would be the only aftermarket option I would consider. This had an after-market Hurst in it when I bought it, and it was awful.
@@andrewcammer2535 i put a hurst in mine. Its ok at best. The throw is differently shorter but its pretty notchy on 1-2 shifts.
I have a 2015 2ss/rs 1le. I was told it has the gm short throw in it already. I might put it back in.
@@jamessiege2727 going back to the stock shifter was one of the best things I did for this car.
Do you happen to have an Instagram account i could follow?
subscribed
cool
What rpm do you launch at and I’m running street tires. What psi do you recommend using?
Hey Rob - all that info is in the video. On drag radials my full weight car works good leaving from around 4800rpm (on a 2-step, will be more just off the acclerator pedal holding an RPM). I like around 18psi on drag radials. Regular street tires don't need to air down that much, maybe to 22-25psi.
@@andrewcammer2535 thanks for the fast reply. I am running tonight at Cecil County Dragway. First time running this car 😬
4.10 and up 4.10 and down