Got to change out my clutch assy. The coil has no continuity, hence the AC comp clutch does not engage. Brilliant down to earth video. Keep up the good work. From an aged 71 year old petrolhead. No one is so clever that they can’t learn from someone else. TTFN from Ontario Canada.
You saved my bacon with the "pull with even pressure line"! It felt super stuck on but when I snaked my hand around to the right side, it came right off...easy peasy!
Guess you are not aware of the air gap .005"/ .007" set with the cute little washer, friction disk to drive pulley. This minor clearance allows the magnet behind the pulley to pull the disk against the pulley to cause the compressor to rotate.
Hey man thus us exactly what I am looking for... maybe you can tell me.. i am replacing my clutch and pulley. It came with 2 of those little black spacers... do I use both? I am not sure what to do
@@OzarkMountain I just measured the washer. Just use one as mine measure .47...if you use both, you'd be at .97. If the Greg above is correct on the spec of .4--.7, then one washer should be sufficient. My old washer measures 1.49mm which is way larger than the spec Greg quotes, so I'm hoping things go ok.
No it's not cheating using a impact wrench. In fact, if you have one and don't use it, then why have it? You know how many other tools you don't need just by owning a impact wrench? Those things are money and time savers, I wouldn't get rid of mine for anything.
Today i replaced my power steering since that's what 4 mechanics told me it was and randoms on the street hearing the loud whining noise. I had a feeling it was the ac clutch since the noise got louder when you got closer to it. As i was changing the pump. I spun the ac pully and it felt dry. Should have gone with my instinct. Money wasted on a part i didn't need, but now i know i don't have to worry bout the power steering. Now to figure out if i should change the whole unit or just the bearing and clutch
The Achilles heel is the compressor. In the 7th generation Honda, it is worth getting a V-belt. BANDO 7PK1390 or Continental Contitech Length 7 PK 1400 [mm]: 1400 Replacing it takes a few minutes for a layman after deflecting the automatic tensioner (such a small circle) with a 13 or 14 wrench if I remember.
In the middle of this now. Today I got the clutch screw off, the clutch out, the pulley off, and the stator ( magnet) off. Checking the new stator with a multimeter I get a reading of 2.8-3. Checking the old one I get an Open Circuit, so hopefully that was the issue. Reassembly to come
good helpful video...anyone have any idea how to remove the clutch on V6 models? on V6 models the chassis frame, won't let you enough space to work with, the pulley is too close. any suggestion will be welcomed.
I’m not sure if you got sorted out but I just did this job on a 2007 Honda Accord v6. To get the pulley off I removed the plastic piece from beneath the engine just below the radiator and compressor and used a 8 - 10 inch piece of 2x4 and positioned it at the back of the pulley and tapped with a hammer rotating the pulley in between taps. In fact the pulley rotated on its own after every tap. Came off no problems. I also had to gently tap on the new pulley and again no issues. I did not drop the compressor and everything was done in place.
@@MrIslandbowler hey man Im in same situation. So u just bought new pulley and clutch kit? I just need to replace the bearing in the pulley. Think thats possible with just sockets and a hammer?
Thanks for posting this! I need to do this type of operation in order to replace the AC clutch coil on my 03 Accord. I made one attempt at it, and even after smacking on the back of the pulley with a mini sledge hammer, I could not even come close to driving it off. And, if I was able to do that, I have doubts about whether I could press it back on. There is a thread on a Honda message board where someone posted that they were unable to get the pulley back on, which concerns me. Was shocked to see how easily yours went back on. I hoped that maybe you found a puller that would fit in the tight space, but as you said, the ones easily available don't seem to fit. I was then hoping you'd show the process of how you got the pulley off (this was the main thing I was looking to see in your video), but as you said, you didn't record it. I have read that others removed the compressor bolts so that they could tilt the compressor pulley down in order to get a puller on it to take it off. Oh, and from the Honda service manual, the 10mm torque spec that you were looking for is 13 lbs.
I didn't even get that far. My plan was to unbolt the AC compressor so that I could tilt the pulley to where I could get a puller on to pull it off. But, on my 2003 I4, the last AC compressor mounting bolt is in an insane location, and it cannot be loosened in place. I have read that others have loosened the subframe (which is the part that is in the way) and moved it to get to the bolt. That is not something that I was ready to tackle. So the short answer is, I haven't tried yet because there were other issues before that. I do know that the pulley will not come off on mine with just pulling on it like it did for this videol
Went to Honda to have them see why my sisters ac isn’t working they wanted around $1,800 for the whole A/C compressor kit when I can buy one online for $225 it’s full of fluid also and the only thing not working is the clutch. Also did you find the torque spec for the pulley?
I followed your procedure and all went well until putting the screw to the clutch ground wire on the top of my roll away tool box in front of the tool chest sitting on it; I opened the bottom drawer and knocked the screw off with my hand onto the floor and......After close to two hours on my hands and knees it's still MIA. Anyone know the size of the screw? (Thread and length)
So I just finished this installation, and my A/C is working properly again (it ended up being a faulty coil) with one problem, the cluth is now spinning constantly with the compressor instead of stationary until engaged. any idea what the problem could be?
What it looks like what happened is the old ac belt overheated, broke off and flew around and ran into the water pump belt, causing the water pump pulley to break off due to the increased pressure on it. It was a domino effect if you will.
@@clintathusaz thanks that helped a lot, so I did everything correctly and still no working AC so I have to do some test to see if it may just be the compressor or the temperature controller gone bad, it’s dual control
I replaced my ac compressor 2 years ago and this year when I went to run the ac for the first time it wasn't working. Bought a recharge kit and jumped the relay to find that I had 0 psi on the low pressure side. Now i filled it to correct pressure, (took almost the whole 16 oz. can), and it works again but there is a loud knocking sound when the clutch engages. I'm really hoping it's just some loose bolts, but is it possible the clutch, pulley, or bearing is already shot after only 2 summers of use? It was a brand new compressor not even a re-manufactured one! Wish me luck I'm going to look around right now...
You need to reduce the gap between the clutch plate and pulley. You can do this by replacing the washer with a thinner washer. Ideally, there should be a millimetre of gap. When the gap becomes too wide the clutch engagement becomes loud just like how you described and worst is sometimes it may not engage at all or have erratic engagement. Cheers.
You're lucky... On GM cars (or at least Saturn) you need to press the pulley on. I had to fabricate a tool for it.. Anyway, thanks for the video! Gonna try to help my friend And also you can use a strap wrench on the pulley, might help
man... those wimpy snap ring pliers was a complete bust, go to Amazon / Ebay & buy a 4 pc. 7-9" set of heavy duty snap ring pliers, 2 internal and 2 external for about $15 to $20 bucks for the set, these snap ring pliers r definitely stronger thicker alloy / steel metal, and will be a time-saver for future endeavors with snap rings.
lol you did the same thing i did bought a new compressor to scavenge the pulley/clutch/stator becuase the only pulley i could find was a universal with 8 ribs
have a 2004 Acura TSX I replaced the Compressor and after connecting everything, Electrical connections and all, the lights won't turn on, the interior lights won't function, the power windows won't function, the only thing that works are the hazard lights, can you tell me what the problem could be?
That's really weird. Not sure what the cause might be. I would look at each of the fuses and relays for everything not working and see if any are bad. I just had a similar issue where I attempted to fix a faulty speedometer and then the blinkers didn't work and the car wouldn't shut off unless I pushed the hazard button ... I was stumped, but it ended up being just a bad blinker relay.
The windows need to be re programmed which is very easy just from the driver controls just roll up and down until it's normal again the lights are also plugged into the same multiplex a lil research and good to go
My bearing in my 2003 honda accord 2.4L is shot :( I bought a clutch assembly to fix it. Do I have to take the entire pulley off to replace the clutch assembly ?
Hi Andrew, if the bearing is the problem then you'll need to remove the pulley to swap that out. If the clutch is your only problem then that can be removed without removing the pulley. Good luck!
I'm gonna tell you this now, to save you from money and time wasted. I took the same route of trying to just replace the bearing, and couldn't do it. These pulleys have a metal flange from the factory that isn't meant to be undone. You cannot press it out without either bending them out of place, or snapping the pulley under load. I would recommend buying a pulley kit. Just got mine off eBay from a reputable seller. Only $45. Just wanted to help you from doing what I did wrong.
@@laiklam96 good info because I was in the process of swapping the bearing. Just gonna throw it back together and order the pulley off eBay. Thanks for posting this comment!
I have an old 1988 Honda Accord and I've heard almost a grinding noise when the AC was on. I just recharged the AC and took a closer look at the compressor. I could see the clutch would stop spinning for a split second causing the belt to smoke a little bit. Any advice on what I need to replace? I'm assuming clutch or bearing or both. AC blows cold when it works. Thank you!!
I appreciate the response! Yeah it's really weird! When the clutch engages the pulley is stopped for a split second and then turns normally with a rattle. I might have to just replace the whole compressor assembly and clutch and all that. It still blows cold-ish when the compressor is working.
Hi Abel, Unfortunately it could be a number of different issues... I would check fuses and relays first (had a relay go bad on my AC before). If those are all good, maybe the AC clutch is bad? Maybe it just needs a recharge? Good luck!
Yes, spent 2 hours today before I was going to ask someone to take me to Home Depot to buy an impact wrench. I actually took a stubby flat head screwdriver, wedged it between the adjacent frame and the raised portion of the clutch (like a 32nd of an inch lip) while I turned that nut left. Can't believe it worked.
Got to change out my clutch assy. The coil has no continuity, hence the AC comp clutch does not engage. Brilliant down to earth video. Keep up the good work. From an aged 71 year old petrolhead. No one is so clever that they can’t learn from someone else. TTFN from Ontario Canada.
You saved my bacon with the "pull with even pressure line"! It felt super stuck on but when I snaked my hand around to the right side, it came right off...easy peasy!
Great! Nice work!
just needed to see the clutch assembly installed, thanks for the vid :)
thank God I'm not the only schmuck with this problem
Guess you are not aware of the air gap .005"/ .007" set with the cute little washer, friction disk to drive pulley. This minor clearance allows the magnet behind the pulley to pull the disk against the pulley to cause the compressor to rotate.
Thank you. This was the only reason I watched this video is to find out what the gap is supposed to be
Note it is .4-.7mm NOT thousandths of inch! That is .016-.025".
Hey man thus us exactly what I am looking for... maybe you can tell me.. i am replacing my clutch and pulley. It came with 2 of those little black spacers... do I use both? I am not sure what to do
@@OzarkMountain I just measured the washer. Just use one as mine measure .47...if you use both, you'd be at .97. If the Greg above is correct on the spec of .4--.7, then one washer should be sufficient. My old washer measures 1.49mm which is way larger than the spec Greg quotes, so I'm hoping things go ok.
No it's not cheating using a impact wrench. In fact, if you have one and don't use it, then why have it? You know how many other tools you don't need just by owning a impact wrench? Those things are money and time savers, I wouldn't get rid of mine for anything.
Today i replaced my power steering since that's what 4 mechanics told me it was and randoms on the street hearing the loud whining noise. I had a feeling it was the ac clutch since the noise got louder when you got closer to it. As i was changing the pump. I spun the ac pully and it felt dry. Should have gone with my instinct. Money wasted on a part i didn't need, but now i know i don't have to worry bout the power steering. Now to figure out if i should change the whole unit or just the bearing and clutch
What's the pully next to the ac pully I need that one fixed but don't know the name of it?
The bigger pulley that's visible is the harmonic balancer, or crankshaft pulley.
The Achilles heel is the compressor. In the 7th generation Honda, it is worth getting a V-belt. BANDO 7PK1390 or Continental Contitech Length 7 PK 1400 [mm]: 1400 Replacing it takes a few minutes for a layman after deflecting the automatic tensioner (such a small circle) with a 13 or 14 wrench if I remember.
In the middle of this now. Today I got the clutch screw off, the clutch out, the pulley off, and the stator ( magnet) off. Checking the new stator with a multimeter I get a reading of 2.8-3. Checking the old one I get an Open Circuit, so hopefully that was the issue. Reassembly to come
good helpful video...anyone have any idea how to remove the clutch on V6 models? on V6 models the chassis frame, won't let you enough space to work with, the pulley is too close. any suggestion will be welcomed.
I’m not sure if you got sorted out but I just did this job on a 2007 Honda Accord v6. To get the pulley off I removed the plastic piece from beneath the engine just below the radiator and compressor and used a 8 - 10 inch piece of 2x4 and positioned it at the back of the pulley and tapped with a hammer rotating the pulley in between taps. In fact the pulley rotated on its own after every tap. Came off no problems. I also had to gently tap on the new pulley and again no issues. I did not drop the compressor and everything was done in place.
@@MrIslandbowler hey man Im in same situation. So u just bought new pulley and clutch kit? I just need to replace the bearing in the pulley. Think thats possible with just sockets and a hammer?
Thanks for posting this! I need to do this type of operation in order to replace the AC clutch coil on my 03 Accord. I made one attempt at it, and even after smacking on the back of the pulley with a mini sledge hammer, I could not even come close to driving it off. And, if I was able to do that, I have doubts about whether I could press it back on. There is a thread on a Honda message board where someone posted that they were unable to get the pulley back on, which concerns me. Was shocked to see how easily yours went back on. I hoped that maybe you found a puller that would fit in the tight space, but as you said, the ones easily available don't seem to fit. I was then hoping you'd show the process of how you got the pulley off (this was the main thing I was looking to see in your video), but as you said, you didn't record it. I have read that others removed the compressor bolts so that they could tilt the compressor pulley down in order to get a puller on it to take it off. Oh, and from the Honda service manual, the 10mm torque spec that you were looking for is 13 lbs.
zigner, my coil also needs replacing for my 2012 honda accord. Any luck getting the pully off and back on? If so how did you do it? thanks!
I didn't even get that far. My plan was to unbolt the AC compressor so that I could tilt the pulley to where I could get a puller on to pull it off. But, on my 2003 I4, the last AC compressor mounting bolt is in an insane location, and it cannot be loosened in place. I have read that others have loosened the subframe (which is the part that is in the way) and moved it to get to the bolt. That is not something that I was ready to tackle. So the short answer is, I haven't tried yet because there were other issues before that. I do know that the pulley will not come off on mine with just pulling on it like it did for this videol
@@zigner well...how'd it go?
Went to Honda to have them see why my sisters ac isn’t working they wanted around $1,800 for the whole A/C compressor kit when I can buy one online for $225 it’s full of fluid also and the only thing not working is the clutch. Also did you find the torque spec for the pulley?
I followed your procedure and all went well until putting the screw to the clutch ground wire on the top of my roll away tool box in front of the tool chest sitting on it; I opened the bottom drawer and knocked the screw off with my hand onto the floor and......After close to two hours on my hands and knees it's still MIA. Anyone know the size of the screw? (Thread and length)
What is the name of the yellow tool you use for the rings?
Snap ring pliers
So I just finished this installation, and my A/C is working properly again (it ended up being a faulty coil) with one problem, the cluth is now spinning constantly with the compressor instead of stationary until engaged. any idea what the problem could be?
Not gapped to spec. Plate too close to coil.
Not coil. Pulley plate. And clutch plate too close
Kyle Shernicoff you lost the spacer washer when you removed the clutch
What it looks like what happened is the old ac belt overheated, broke off and flew around and ran into the water pump belt, causing the water pump pulley to break off due to the increased pressure on it. It was a domino effect if you will.
Is the clutch suppose to move freely when replaced?
Before you put the belt on it should spin freely.
@@clintathusaz thanks that helped a lot, so I did everything correctly and still no working AC so I have to do some test to see if it may just be the compressor or the temperature controller gone bad, it’s dual control
Bummer!
I don’t know shit about cars , but I was wondering if I can put a stage 3 ac clutch kit on my automatic 03 honda accord ex is that possible??
I replaced my ac compressor 2 years ago and this year when I went to run the ac for the first time it wasn't working. Bought a recharge kit and jumped the relay to find that I had 0 psi on the low pressure side. Now i filled it to correct pressure, (took almost the whole 16 oz. can), and it works again but there is a loud knocking sound when the clutch engages. I'm really hoping it's just some loose bolts, but is it possible the clutch, pulley, or bearing is already shot after only 2 summers of use? It was a brand new compressor not even a re-manufactured one! Wish me luck I'm going to look around right now...
You need to reduce the gap between the clutch plate and pulley. You can do this by replacing the washer with a thinner washer. Ideally, there should be a millimetre of gap. When the gap becomes too wide the clutch engagement becomes loud just like how you described and worst is sometimes it may not engage at all or have erratic engagement. Cheers.
You're lucky... On GM cars (or at least Saturn) you need to press the pulley on. I had to fabricate a tool for it..
Anyway, thanks for the video! Gonna try to help my friend
And also you can use a strap wrench on the pulley, might help
10 mm bolt info was very helpful, call parts store and they didnt have a part listing for it
man... those wimpy snap ring pliers was a complete bust, go to Amazon / Ebay & buy a 4 pc. 7-9" set of heavy duty snap ring pliers, 2 internal and 2 external for about $15 to $20 bucks for the set, these snap ring pliers r definitely stronger thicker alloy / steel metal, and will be a time-saver for future endeavors with snap rings.
Haha very true! They are pretty pitiful. Thanks for the suggestion! Will be on my list of tools to buy.
How many spacers did you use?
lol you did the same thing i did bought a new compressor to scavenge the pulley/clutch/stator becuase the only pulley i could find was a universal with 8 ribs
Mines makes this weird tappierish noise when I turn it on
have a 2004 Acura TSX I replaced the Compressor and after connecting everything, Electrical connections and all, the lights won't turn on, the interior lights won't function, the power windows won't function, the only thing that works are the hazard lights, can you tell me what the problem could be?
That's really weird. Not sure what the cause might be. I would look at each of the fuses and relays for everything not working and see if any are bad. I just had a similar issue where I attempted to fix a faulty speedometer and then the blinkers didn't work and the car wouldn't shut off unless I pushed the hazard button ... I was stumped, but it ended up being just a bad blinker relay.
@@clintathusaz Thank you
battery fuse
The windows need to be re programmed which is very easy just from the driver controls just roll up and down until it's normal again the lights are also plugged into the same multiplex a lil research and good to go
75 BUCKS that is CHEAP the kit it self cost 100 buck's...where can I get a compressor for 2005 Honda oddyssey 6 cylinder...PLEASE
what size that bearing bro..tell me please
suffiah hj awang dullah lol, 4 months later and you are still waiting? Smh
Trying to pull ac clutch off will not come off any suggestions took to flat heads and still wont come off
Probably a lock pin holding it back
My bearing in my 2003 honda accord 2.4L is shot :( I bought a clutch assembly to fix it. Do I have to take the entire pulley off to replace the clutch assembly ?
Hi Andrew, if the bearing is the problem then you'll need to remove the pulley to swap that out. If the clutch is your only problem then that can be removed without removing the pulley. Good luck!
Clint's Garage i figured it out ! ....but..... just the fact you took your time to reply i have liked and subscribed ! Thanks !
Thank you and sorry the response wasn't more timely! Glad you figured it out though.
@@TheyCallMeGlizzi hey man Im in same issue. I just want to replace the bearing. Is that what you did? Looking for some guidance.
COULD YOU TELL ME THE SIZE OF THE BEARING? MINE IS ACCORD 2007 SEDAN 2.4. THANKS A LOT IN ADVANCE.
I'm gonna tell you this now, to save you from money and time wasted. I took the same route of trying to just replace the bearing, and couldn't do it. These pulleys have a metal flange from the factory that isn't meant to be undone. You cannot press it out without either bending them out of place, or snapping the pulley under load. I would recommend buying a pulley kit. Just got mine off eBay from a reputable seller. Only $45. Just wanted to help you from doing what I did wrong.
@@laiklam96 good info because I was in the process of swapping the bearing. Just gonna throw it back together and order the pulley off eBay. Thanks for posting this comment!
Why u want to change the bearing when the whole kit is 50 buck
Must be nice your ac clutch is not seized on
I have an old 1988 Honda Accord and I've heard almost a grinding noise when the AC was on. I just recharged the AC and took a closer look at the compressor. I could see the clutch would stop spinning for a split second causing the belt to smoke a little bit. Any advice on what I need to replace? I'm assuming clutch or bearing or both. AC blows cold when it works. Thank you!!
That's weird! It sounds like maybe the compressor is seized? When the clutch engages, the pulley is stopped and burns the belt? Good luck!
I appreciate the response! Yeah it's really weird! When the clutch engages the pulley is stopped for a split second and then turns normally with a rattle. I might have to just replace the whole compressor assembly and clutch and all that. It still blows cold-ish when the compressor is working.
the ac compressor wobble it could make the harmonic balancer wobble replace the ac compressor then you good
It's the shaft on the compressor
I got a honda accord 2006 and my AC is not working...it only blows regular and hot air....wat can i do to make it work..?/
Hi Abel, Unfortunately it could be a number of different issues... I would check fuses and relays first (had a relay go bad on my AC before). If those are all good, maybe the AC clutch is bad? Maybe it just needs a recharge? Good luck!
Just an FYI .. The A/C never "just needs a recharge" without finding the leak first..
Yeah, using a ratchet for the clutch bolt. The clutch just rotates. I'm getting nowhere
because u need the holding tool that holds the hub in place so u can get the bolt off the clutch off the ac compressor. go and tell autozone that.
Try loosening the bolt before taking off the serpentine belt.
Yes, spent 2 hours today before I was going to ask someone to take me to Home Depot to buy an impact wrench. I actually took a stubby flat head screwdriver, wedged it between the adjacent frame and the raised portion of the clutch (like a 32nd of an inch lip) while I turned that nut left. Can't believe it worked.
Descent vid looks hard tho lol
*New to me!* yessir
ty
Go devils
Yeah buddy!
ua-cam.com/video/5Q3iyXhRLg0/v-deo.html Toyota ac compressor repir