2003-2007 Accord 2.4L Idler Pulley Removal and Bearing Replacement
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- Опубліковано 17 лип 2024
- This video walks you through the process of removing the idler pulley and swapping out the bearing. If you have squeaking coming from your belt/rotary components, this might be a quick fix. Most places try and sell you the entire pulley but that costs around $20. You can get a replacement bearing for $5-$8 and its super easy to replace. Although this didn't fix my squeaking issues this go around, this has been the source of squeaking in the past and a new bearing did just the trick.
Bearing link: amzn.to/29qUHZe (affiliate)
Tools:
-14mm Wrench (the longer the better, or some sort of extender)
-11/16 Socket (to remove old bearing)
-1 1/8 Socket (to press in new bearing)
-Hammer
-Vise
2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 honda accord 2.4L 4 cylinder squeaking chirping fix idler pulley bearing - Авто та транспорт
I wish I would have watched this video before I dropped the bolt from behind the pulley! Great video, cheers!
Thanks for commenting!!
You are very smart ! Thanks for the idea to "leave the water pump for last"
I wish i would have seen this video before doing this job i lost the nut and had to go buy another one its at home depot its a m10-1.5 if lost i found a 3 pack of the for $2.03 this is good information for anyone like me that couldnt find the nut and who also wasted an hour taking off all the accessories on the motor in the process keep what i said in mind i didnt do this exact job i bought a new pulley that came with the bearing so if you loose the nut just ho buy another one for $2.03 its worth the drive if you have another vehicle or ride upside looking for it and mabey not finding it
omg thank you i lose my nut 😔
Autozone has grade 8.8 m10-1.5 which is more applicable in automotive applications
@@glennhansel9411 they didn’t have anything that fit it I went to Home Depot for a reason also Home Depot has grade 8.8 nuts and bolts aswell so you don’t necessarily have to go to autozone and pay their premium for a bolt or nut that you can go to home depot and buy for a 1/16th of the price
Bearing link: amzn.to/29qUHZe (affiliate)
Easy to follow along, thanks for making video and thanks for the link super helpful.
Sure thing! Thanks for the comment!!
After watching lots of videos...this ones convince me on how to fix my squeaking tensioner.
Thanks a lot!
You're welcome! Good luck and glad it was helpful to you!
@@clintathusaz...Thank you very much...your video is a big help to me. Done my bearing repair and it works.
Again, Thank you so much!
That's great! Good to hear you were successful!!
Nice video,this pully could be a reason idol engine vibration ?
Good video. I notice that at @6.37 auto-tensioner pointer is bit off to right. Do you think this is an indication of a bad pulley?
pls info to replace tensioner bearing number for crv 2.4 2007 .. tx
Ok, I am confused now. With a 14mm wrench, turning toward the car windshield would loosen the belt, and tighten the bold/nut by turning the other way. So how can I loosen the bolt if the pulley keeps moving along ?
Will a shaking tensioner cause overheating
I lost the nut on the back and can’t find it. Where did you find it when you took off accessory components?
thanks bud done in 20 minutes
Nice work!
very helpful THX
Great video.
+Law Marion Thanks!
my 06 accord makes squealing noise when i'm stopped at redlight, stop sign, parked, and even when i'm reversing. could it be pulley and/or belt? i replaced the belt like 2 years ago.
TISINLI it definitely could be a bad bearing in the pulley. That's exactly how mine sounded too. And if it's not the problem you're not out a ton because you can get bearings for $5-8
clintathusaz thanks for the response. I had a battery charger malfunction too when O'Reilly did engine diagnostic and my friend told me to check the alternator pulley. can bad pulley cause this as well (battery not getting enough charge)?
hey man where did you put that nut at the beginning of the re.installing??? the one you said be carefull because its hard to find.
There's a hex slot for it on the back of the tensioner arm.
helo can you tell the bearing nunber
Thanks for the video. You cannot jus take out the pulley from the belt tensioner assembly in Acura TL. You would have to remove the entire assembly because there is NO ROOM to remove the bolt that holds in the pulley since the engine is sitting side way and hitting the frame.
Undo engine mount and Jack engine up a little makes life easier
@@marleytuatara4080 Thanks
some say new belt letters should face out ?
How much time the idler pulley will last with the new bearing? I did the same operation on my Accord and would like to know when will be the time to put a new idler, signs of wear to look for? Thank you!
It will mostly depend on what bearing you got and what it was rated for. There are lots of bearings of the same size, but rated for different RPMs. I would not worry about it until you hear it squeaking again, which i would not suspect would happen for 50k miles or so.
My 08 accord rattles inside the tensioner area. Dealership said I needed a serpentine tensioner. You think it just needs a bearing?
Hard to say. If they replaced the whole tensioner unit, it would have a new idler/bearing. Does it squeak? The bearing is the most likely candidate to be bad. The tensioner itself is basically just a spring holding that idler tight against the belt, so a failure there seems less likely. I would probably change the bearing first and see if that fixes it. If not, you're only out $8 or so. Changing the bearing worked for the first squeaking I was having, but the second time, it was something else entirely. My compressor clutch pulley was slightly bent, sending vibrations through the belt into the water pump, and destroyed my brand new water pump. I doubt that's your case, but it's not always easy to tell what the problem is exactly.
Hope you get it figured out!
You should've added more high temperature grease into that bearing. You can open those side plastic seals
Great suggestion! Thanks for the comment!
+Paul OregonUSA - Sit all day for a $1.75 Bearing? 😅 😅 😅 😅
Which way do you need to turn the pulley nut to undo it and get the pulley off? Do you push the wrench towards the firewall so that the bolt turns left?
Cheers
Johnny Rocket I didn't remember, but looking back at the video when I tighten it back on, it looks like it's a standard right hand thread, so righty tighty. Good luck!
I think you're right! Thats why you pull towards the front of the car to loosen tension, while not loosening the bolt at the same time...
Also where did you buy the bearing from? what was the price?
+John Henderson I got it from McMaster-Carr for like $6. There's a link in the description.
Why skip the actual removal of the pulley?
This is the tensioner pulley not the idle ..in order to take out the idle pulley u have to take the whole assembly off
So glad you said that I’ve been looking for information on the idler pulley and all that comes up is the tensioner pulley. Even shopping for one has the same results. Do you have a part # or more info.
dont you need to torque the pulley bolt?
+John Henderson Yeah you're probably right. Here is what I got from NutzAboutBoltz video but I'm not sure where he got the specs.
41 ft. lbs - Auto tensioner pulley bolt
that pulley needs to be tightened to 41 ft-lbs. not sure if you can get it that tight with that little wrench.
Isn't that the tensioner pulley? The idler is the one under it.
Wish I saw your video first.
Drop the finging nut dude.
Thankyou
Well, for my case save is huge ! Cheepest tensioner is around 80 euros (92$) and there is two tensioners + 6 pulley's + WP (water pump is "cheepest" ! price is same like one pulley... logic ? there is no logic - they know we have to change that parts and point is to take as much they can) Or put it simpler: if I buy timing belt set and other one for alternator - again Im talking about cheepest I can find, online etc I have to pay 330 + 140 e (540$) with lowest quality parts etc - I would NOT have a guts to put that on my car... So this is giant save for me :) Thanks for tip's
Woah! So glad to help!!
i should 've seen this before i did it..
There's No one have mentioned it
The damn nut..
Vital" as you do this" (mine was a 4 cyl), find on the web a diagram of the serpentine belt- sketch out a diagram -I HAD to use a pipe- cheater-bar on a 14mm box end wrench AND manage to do the "water pump - no ribs" pulley for last, Critical to see / know the pathway, and to have bulletproof ability to pull back the tension pulley, I HAD to use a pipe cheater bar on a 14mm box end wrench, "sloppy attempts" with an additional box end wrench for leverage was too sloppy, didn't allow enough control for a "one guy job". It's a bitch of a job with the belt aspect, doable, but humbling and difficult, cheater pipe on the tension pulley being Vital...
That’s the tensioner not the idler!!!
Honda is not as lasting as Toyota, or not as lasting as old Honda used to be.
My Accord just developed this issue at 226k miles. First non-maintenance item mechanical failure.
My Honda Accord A/C tensioner gave me trouble at 105K mileage.
My acura is going to get this replaced tomorrow, tensioner and idle pulley assembly at 120k miles, which is not bad since it hasn't given me any problems at all, only reg maintenance.
May16Joe, not sure how much it costs for Acura but a belt tensioner for Honda Accord I4 would cost around $160 for an OEM one (Danco).
+trankt54155 - My Dad's 1990 CRX got 450K miles. He's trying to flip 1,000,000.... It's how you take care of it! Did you *EVER* look at those parts? Most *Parts* are made by other Company! Dude, get *EDUCATED* 😅 😅 😅 😅😅 😅 😅 😅