Free and Easy Miata Lifter Tick Fix!
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- Опубліковано 29 чер 2024
- It's time to stop using Rotella and take care of your Miata the right way. If you're doing your timing belt, this adds 30-60 minutes and your Miata will run like new when you're done.
Interested in some cool aftermarket parts:
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If you're interested in having me build your engine, feel free to reach out to me on Instagram or via email.
Email: nappmotorsports@gmail.com
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Chapters:
0:00 - Intro
3:17 - Disassembly
5:55 - Reassembly - Авто та транспорт
thanks so much for this video, i just cleaned them out by swishing them around in acetone and chunks of stuff came out. i might have other problems that i didnt know about but thanks to you i found it
Nice! Hopefully it helps.
Looking forward for the next video! Currently rebuilding my 1.6 for the first time. Thank you for hard work 🤟
Awesome!
I'm also a huge fan of fixing and maintaining things instead of throwing them away. And so I found and still find this clip here about the maintenance of the hydraulic lifters very interesting. However, I would like to make one addition, which I consider not insignificant since it has a major impact on the function of the plunger. We are talking about the checkvalve in the plunger. This is hidden under the tiny sheet metal cap at one end. You can now lever off this cap relatively easily with a screwdriver and a tiny spiral spring and a small ball appear. The conical seat of the ball becomes dirty over time due to oil varnish and thus impairs correct function! From hundreds of my own experiences I know that this service can extend the life of the hydros to the full extent, but the wear and tear is evident here too and sooner or later new tappets are simply due! Also and very important to note: the play of the bucket tappets in their bore in the cylinder head! A few hundredths of a millimeter more of a good thing is too much here and the oil pressure on the tappet drops and the supply to the hydros is too low -> rattle or tick!
I just didn’t want to lose that tiny spring.
@@NappMotorsports, .... sure, I can understand that! That's why I've gotten into the habit of disassembling the cap right next to a magnet. The magnet comes from an old wideboard and is perfectly adequate for this purpose... doesn't have to be a neodymium magnet!
Good video, very straightforward.
Thanks!
Great video and tip for hydraulic lifters - I never realised it was so simple! I run 5w-40 in my turbo 1.6 and haven't suffered any cold start lifter 'tick', but I also did any engine oil flush each year until I put on an oil cooler (Yes, it's a pain emptying the cooler and pipes - so no more flushing!!).
Looking forward to the engine build. Keep up the great YT content (not a fan of Instagram 😒, much prefer YT 😁).
Thanks! If only editing YT didn’t take so much longer than posting on IG haha
Thanks Steph, will be doing this probabaly tomorrow prior to putting my sons engine together. Been putting it off for a while but it needs to be done. Looking forward to the full engine rebuild videos.
Great! It’s a super simple thing with great results.
I did a seafoam treatment on mine, (following the Project Farm guy's method). That was over 3yrs ago and my Miata hasn't had any 'tic' issues since.
If that didn't work, I would definitely recommend the procedure you're doing here. Saving vid for future reference.
I’ve always debated seafoam, but I live too close to my neighbors and don’t want to smoke them out.
My 1996 Subaru 2.5L DOHC uses these exact same lifters and they're all stuck. Glad I found this video since I'm doing head gaskets and I'll clean the lifters, had already priced new ones and now know spending that $$$$ isn't not necessary. Thanks!!! Just a note that paint thinner is a better/safer cleaner than gas or brake clean.
Hopefully it works for you and saves you some cash!
Much easier way and save yourself time.
If your engine hasn't grenaded and is running, add 1/4qt of generic ATF to the engine. The detergents clean the HLAs as well as any buildup in squirter feed passages.
This is an immediately noticeable change in sound and performance of the NA engine.
ONLY DO BEFORE YOUR OIL CHANGE!!!!
OK TO RUN AT LOWER RPM ONLY!!!
FYI, not just some random dude on the internet. Have been working on Miata/MX5 specifically since 2003.
Enjoy your vids man!!! Lots of great information.
Interesting, I’ll have to try that out!
This is an interesting idea. Do you add the 1/4 quart to the engine oil? How long should one drive around with it before changing the oil?
Great video.
Thanks!
Great video! I use Castrol Magnatec and I dont have any ticks anymore
Nice!
Did this a couple thousand miles ago… definitely helped but if your car sits for more then 7 days you’ll eventually get it on startup. A way I did find that works for me is just cranking my car over until I get oil pressure, them fire the it up and I almost never get lifted tick any more.
Also why don’t you like rotella!? Its killer use it in all my high rev jet skis and bikes they have had the best results coming back from blackstone.
I don’t have a good reason not to like it lol. I would just love to see people fixing it the right way.
thanks napp this is a game changer! i look foward to trying this when i change my belt and pump. But i thought mazda specd out 5w30 for na miatas?
No problem 👍
Thank you 🤙🏾
Happy to help!
Thanks for this very useful tip. My tick was very intermittent and hasn't come back since my last oil change.
Nice!
How's it holding up?
What did you clean it in?
I'm really curious.
@@gogobnr3291 I didn´t use this technique. I just changed my oil and it hasn´t returned. Still going fine. I just plan to fix it properly if it ever does become an issue.
I like to run rotella t6 with 16 oz of marvel mystery oil in the winter. No noisy lifters for me
I mean I guess if it works.
Do you think there's any advantage to putting each lifter (disassembled) into your parts cleaner? Or is that overkill/the gas gets every bit of grit anyway. Awesome video!
It’s likely overkill. They’re just big open cavities so everything gets cleaned out pretty easy.
Nice, given you've seem to have done many, have you experienced any failure rate: ie tick continues after treatment, and also just wondering if you would ever bother renewing the whole HLA assembly given you have them off ... appreciate you thoughts.
cheers
I've done this maybe 3 times total. The tick can still be there, that's obviously a risk, but in my experience it either goes away, or will go away after a few cycles.
Does the hole in the lifter have to line up with the little hole in the case? Or does this not make a difference? Great video!
Nope! The lifters rotate during operation so it doesn’t matter
had the same question. thanks for the great video Napp Motorsports!
I tried this and could NOT get the lifter apart. I noticed that the inner plunger bit didn't have a lip to grab with a pliers, so maybe they are aftermarket ones that aren't meant to be disassembled? Couldn't find much about this online, was wondering if you had heard of this or ever had trouble getting them apart. Ended up calling it quits after 4 hours of prying/soaking/heating and ordered a new set of ITM lifters. Love this channel, you guys are on your way to 100k+ subscribers no doubt!
Interesting. I know it’s a little tight to get them apart but these were OEM. If yours is a 99-05, they are solid lifters and not meant to come apart.
@@NappMotorsports I have a 95. The plunger does push in and out (and rotates) so I know its not totally frozen in there. My guess is the OEM ones have an O-ring or something that compresses when you pull them apart and these aftermarket ones have some kind of an interference fit and were put together with a big ol' press. I might cut one open and find out...will report back.
This was easy to do
Yup!
It’s so much easier to just put the wrong oil in.
😂
😂95% of Miata owners
Hi, inside the inner plunger on the "nubby end" there is another spring and a little ball, that prevents oil is leaking while engine stands still and no oil pressure comes through the little hole. Is it not necessary to clean this too, to get rid of lifter tick? However, great video and good description 👍
This is the same question I have - I was wondering if the checkball cage and checkball should be disassembled, or if they get cleaned "good enough" without full breakdown. I suppose one could clean as shown, then take one apart to see if there is any residual shmoo inside, then decide. Thanks @NappMotorsports, and thanks for thinking on the same question, @WernerTiffy.
@@MichaelShuler if you disasemble the cage, just be aware tiny spring inside is very delicate and likely to be distorted. But it is possible to do 😉
Not worth the risk IMO. I’ve had super good results just doing this, and that spring is so small that you could easily lose it or damage it.
Rotella T6 after the tick starts didn't solve the problem on mine. A Clhorinated additive did!
Nice
Thanks for VDO, Kindly please show me engine sound before do this then sound after do this.
Next time
Humm that’s pretty easy. Besides putting everything back in correctly there’s nothing else? Can’t find the post I read about doing this but they had said something about letting them sit a little. Necessary or miss informed? I figure by time you get them back in and finish the job they’d have lost some oil anyways.
شكرا للك thank you
You're welcome
I have a lifter tick after warm up....when cold everything is quite....only when hot....
Does cleaning them like that solve that problem !!
Thank you mate ..
Yes
Yup
@Napp Motorsports what kind of oil did you soak them in at the end?
10W-30
When installing the lifter, does the lifter's hole has to point in a certain direction and if so, which direction? please help.
No, the lifters will spin in the head so it doesn’t matter.
Is this the same instructions for a 1995 Nissan Sentra 1.6L ?
Honestly I have no idea. I doubt it though.
Hi, do You know, wich the exhaust/intake side lifter? - they differ in the inside - thanks!
They’re the same
thx!@@NappMotorsports
👏
🫡
Awesomeness brother thank you !!!!
You bet!
Any news on the 2 liter ITB motor?
Hoping that video goes up soon.
Dumb question: what is it that holds the assembled lifter together? Friction, O-ring, etc.?
I believe it’s the little o-ring. Also the cam is right on top so it can’t come apart while the engine is assembled.
@@NappMotorsports Do the O=rings fatigue?
Lol....a brotella guy. When I first hear that, I was like....uh no. 😂 This what we had to do to earlier Hyundais that used mistu motors.
Lol I can’t deny it works, but it’s just not right.
@@NappMotorsports well that could be said about just about anything! Lol
The reason many just switch to rotella is because they’ve been told the ticking just comes back. What’s your experience with that?
I VVT swap every miata I own so I don’t have to worry about it coming back because solid lifters. If you change your oil at a good interval it shouldn’t come back.
I have a 2001. Do I need to adjust the valves?
You should check it
Doesn’t swapping a 99 head also fix the issue?
It does, but getting your valve lash right is even harder.
This really fixes the tick? I've got the timing belt off, might as well try it
Yup!
@@NappMotorsports it did fix the tick! I was impressed how stuck mine were. 5/16 stuck solid, 6/16 partly stuck. I had to soak them in gas in my ultrasonic cleaner for 15-30 mins each, to get them unstuck. What a pain since I could only fit 3 containers in my cleaner at a time. Took way longer than I wanted, but certainly extended the life of that engine.
When I first started the engine back up, it was way quieter, but still had a little tick. Did a little 1500-2000 rpm for a few mins, and it gradually went away. I assume the cam had to rebed to the lifters that were stuck for so long? not exactly sure, but it's quiet now.
Thanks for making this vid, as it gave me the confidence to tear into it
Honestly, at $250 for a set of new lifters, this is getting a bit hard to justify. I didn't even bother trying to rebuild mine, just slapped some new ones in and called it a day.
I think lifter tick is less about gunk building up as it is the hydraulic bores wearing out and allowing oil to leak past through the HLA. I've ran all kinds of oil after I replaced mine, none of them resulted in any tick even when cold. I can let the car sit for a couple days and it still wont tick now.
Worth the investment, plus you end up with new scuff free tops.
I mean it takes maybe 30 minutes once you’re in there. I value my time but not at $500/hr
do you use a specific oil?
Whatever oil goes in your miata. Should be 10W-30
Or just substitute 1qt of oil for 1qt of atf when doing oil changes. It'll clean out the engine and keep it healthy.
Haven’t heard of this. Still doesn’t sound like the right fix.
@@NappMotorsports ATF has lots of detergents in it. On this basis, it MIGHT help to clean some gunk from the crankcase and other internals. Just be aware that most people do this as kind of a last resort so you MIGHT not have to actually open the engine and fix what's wrong. Kind of like Seafoam treatment.
Not saying on haven't tried it in a very limited scenario in the past (Chevy 5.3 lifter tick - 350k miles on the new to me vehicle), but I knew what my risks were and definitely didn't drive anywhere with ATF in the engine oil. Didn't fix my issue and I ended up dropping the oil pan to replace the pickup tube o-ring (AKA the real problem). All the ATF trick cost me was a couple dollars of fluid when I was changing the oil anyway. Still wouldn't recommend it for the Miata lifter tick though.
ok
Ok
Why not just buy all new ones
Because you can fix them for free?
@@NappMotorsports but wouldn't the tick just come back quicker on used ones that new ones?
I didnt know Mac Miller built miatas
Hahahaha
Definitely gonna try this when I rebuild my head, until then I remain a brotella guy🫡 Great vid man lol
Down with Brotella!