Fix your problems! (Affiliate links for which I may be compensated) Radiators: amzn.to/3ih9AfU (Check NA vs NB fit) Soft Tops / Rain Rails: amzn.to/2U5g0XL Oil Leaks: amzn.to/3yZBfZz (Confirm fit) Floppy Vents: ebay.us/ZtnKQK Rust: amzn.to/2Te76qr ►Full Build Spreadsheet: bit.ly/3z0SCg4 (My Turbo NA) ►Falken 615K+ Tires: bit.ly/3MTZFuU
"You should expect some oil leaks from these cars" BMW owners: That's cute. "The valve cover is easy to replace" BMW owners: *Screams in pure suffering*
actually, I have a miata and recently I sold an e46 which had no oil leaks anywhere, but it was overheating as hell which is the reason I sold it. Before that, I had an shitbox e36 sedan and it wasn't leaking oil but again... overheating.. I think it's my curse cause my miata is overheating too :(
We bought our 1990 MX-5 in 1994 and owned her for 20 years. The only problem we had was an oil leak that amounted to a quart per year. That being the rear seal, our mechanic advised us to just add oil when necessary. Otherwise, the Miata was just bulletproof. Admittedly, we kept her garaged.
Nice but if its a manual that will cause clutch slip and Hotspot on the flywheel .. but considering sounds like u got a killer deal bro ... peace and love
2003 NB. Radiator- replaced with an aluminium one. Soft Top - replaced. Oil Leaks - No. (manifold seal was replaced as per 100,000 km service) Floppy Vents - yes. On the ‘to-do’ list. Rust - No. Australia does not salt its roads.
2004 NB. Radiator- replace with an aluminum one. On the ‘to-do’ list Soft Top - replaced. but has small tear thats fixed Oil Leaks - yes :) but not dripping on the ground Floppy Vents - No. fixed with tape. Rust - yes. rear wheel arch. In Finland salt allover the place on winter
@@Jusu.siltsu Do your thermostat at the same time. I sprung for a radiator replacement, mine was going green and running kinda hot when the AC was on (220F), went to aluminum rad, but it was actually just the thermostat. You can get more cooling performance boost by just goibng with new thermostat and coolant re-route than an alu rad, for less cash. mind you, the alu rad looks awesome and it was cheap enough anyway :)
Keep your car clean, keep it out of the sun, these two things prevent all the problems mentioned in the video. My car is 20 years old and I haven’t had ANY of these problems. This car is amazing.
I have a 90’ miata with 328k miles and have done all things you mentioned. BUT, I consider them problems applied to ANY CAR. Nothing unusual if you Truly care about your car and maintain it out of love. Just my 2cents!!!! Thank you!
Those go bad on the NB, too. I tore the plastic lever assembly out and used the switches on the circuit board directly for a while before putting new levers in. The top latches perform a similar trick with wear. They won’t stay in the latched position because the retaining nub wears off. I got “remanufactured” latches. Still overpriced, but cheaper than new factory items. Think I’ll mention that the leather seats go to blazes in a hurry, too. Darn stuff.
I did have to replace the whole regulator in my driver's side once in 200K miles, but I had to clean and rebuild that switch at least 20 times in the same span.
i fixed mine by sanding the contact patches and removing a bit of the plastik on the switch it self, whrere the metal is. On my Miata it seemed like it got pushed into the plastik somehow.
Was fully prepared to roll my eyes when I started watching your video. I apologize for that. I have a 95 Montego Blue with 215,000 mi on it. I've got about 10 grand into her, engine and transmission are fully stock. I consider myself a religious zealot in the Church of Miata, and your info was spot on. The only other known failure point on miatas I would bring up, are the clutch slave cylinders. It's a very easy fix, and a cheap part, but for some reason the seals tend to go out prematurely.
2003 NB owner. The only unscheduled maintenance that I've had to do with my car is to replace one of the header latches, as the locking mechanism can wear with use. If possible, I would recommend to keep the car garaged, as this keeps the weather off the car, as well as the debris.
I have a 93 NA and all the issues you addressed are spot on. I have had to replace the soft top. Clean out the rain rail drains unclog the pinch weld drains under the car. I have 290,000 miles and the engine doesn't leak oil so I have been lucky there. I really enjoy your videos and have been a subscriber for quite a while. Always good content. Keep them coming
The Miata is a great car. I had a ‘93 that I kept almost 10 years. The only failure was a plastic gear in the window lift mechanism. Some design problems that were easily fixed such as a frame brace that was included from the factory I think in ‘94. When I sold it I bought a 2000 Corvette convertible. Now that was a car with lots of MAJOR design and manufacturing issues. More than I can remember. It looked good, had 29 mpg, quick acceleration and stopping. Altogether a different car. But from an engineering and quality perspective, Miata wins my vote!
I think the water pump is worth a mention. If you have a coolant drip in the front, get ready to take the front of the motor off and do the timing belt. It is 100% going to happen.
Audio is EXCELLENT. The whole video is Good. Many UA-cam videos will "show" but you can't hear and the producers are oblivious to it or don't care even with the volume up. This was excellent concise to the point and very informative.
MX-5 NB1 2000 Radiator crack? Check Soft top rips? Check Clogged rain rails? Check Engine oil leaks? Check (front crankshaft and valve cover) I would also add coil pack failure and power windows only rolling down half of the way! From my experience and what I read in other forums those two are also very common. At least, it's a cheap car to fix! Great video man!
I've had my 2001 for 3 years. Had to blow out drains behind doors. One window would only go down 5 inches - tie holding wiring disintegrated. Fixed with a cable tie. To avoid rust and soft-top problems keep garaged if possible. Thanks for excellent video!
My 1995 Gen 1, Series 2 (1.8L) in Classic Red acquired in 2001. Always garaged and not driven in winter. Now with 132,247 miles. Head gasket replaced in 2017. Radiator replaced with an aluminum Mishimoto in 2018. Just replaced the soft top and rain rail this June. Maintenance costs over 21 years of my ownership is $7,451.13 or $354.82/year. Pristine appearance and shown frequently at auto shows. Lovin' every minute of it.
2000 Miata Thrust Bearing Failure at 20xxx . Bought used engine that had the same problem Remove and replace engine 2x . Set thrust bearing properly at minimum. No problem since. I have had multiple slave cylinders fail. Clutch master fail x 2 Fuel pump failure in 2023. Rear calipers leaking x 2 Water Pump failure, replaced, switch for electric mirrors failure, replaced. Replaced green radiator. Replaced top with Robbins Top. Keep up the good work.
1993 NA Miata here. Yes to all. Completely accurate and yet still a very amazingly resilient car. I’m not a mechanic and did replace my own radiator. Get puppy pads to prevent spills on the driveway. I also replaced the gasket seal but even taking great care and adding the extra sealant to problem areas the gasket still leaks. This may be something in need a professional to do since I already had my hand at it. Lastly SPARK PLUGS. The Miata eats spark plugs. I bought premium ones after replacing them a few times and they lasted just as long, not worth the up charge. It’s just a yearly thing I do now.
3:13 - Not just the rear main seal. There is a carrier for the rear main on the NA and NB's, that can make it look like the rear main is leaking, you'll have to replace part of the oil pan gasket for this as well. I recommend you replace both if you are doing a rear main seal job to avoid removing your transmission more than once. The carrier for the rear main seal will look like the rear main is leaking when you get there, heads up.....Hopefully this will help one person.
Thanks! Can you link to this part? I've fixed all of my leaks (including cam and crank pulleys) and so now fixing to pull the trans and only want to do this once!
I have a 2001 NB2 with 60,000 miles. Replaced the radiator when purchased, cleaned out the drains and fender panel. Sprayed anti corrosion on inside of panels. Swapped AC vents with 2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse (slightly modified). One problem that WILL happen and one I consider more important than floppy vents is the soft top latches wear and won't stay shut. You'll be driving, the wind will catch your top and rip it open.
Just bought my second nb sold my first one a couple years ago. Just got a 2001. Classic red. No body kit bs. All stock. 43,870 miles. 5 speed. Zero rust. Though i live in New England. Bought it off an older guy who kept it in his garage. It's so nice i can't even do any of the mods i had planned... feels like a crime to charge to much on it. 👍 subscribed.
Just to add to the oil leak problem don’t forget that oil and coolant hoses don’t go well with each other since the cam seal on the back of the head is such an issue it will always cause the heater core hose directly under it to wear much faster don’t forget to check for a squishy or ballooning hose!
Very helpful, easy to understand tips on what to watch out for. - many thanks. My '97 NA Speedster is garaged year round. When putting away for the winter I put the top up to keep the material straight and in its natural position. However, to avoid strain over 6 months of storage, I DON'T latch the top to the windshield - just let it sit up in its natural position. A top boot/tonneau cover is a must to keep out the sun, dust and moisture. When folding down the top, make sure your vinyl window isn't creased or folded crookedly. I also tuck a rolled up towel in the outside of the rear window when the top is down, to minimize any creasing and to keep out dust. Regular cleaning and treating a vinyl top will ensure a long life. I believe there are about 13 (!) drain tubes on NA Miatas. Carefully cleaning them out will help fend off lower body rust and prevent water in the interior.
'96 black and tan, bought new. Driven year round up until fall of 2013, ~352k on the clock and currently sitting in my garage waiting to be restored thanks to the liquid car dissolver CT uses on the roads in winter. Other than routine scheduled maintenance & brake pads/rotors (and go-fast goodies like shocks, springs and sway bars), it was a very reliable car. Replaced a weeping differential axle shaft seal at 66k, and welded a rusted through exhaust flange somewhere in the mid 100s. Had to replace a rear wheel bearing somewhere in the low 200s. Finally did the water pump and hoses with the 240k timing belt replacement, replaced a dead fuel injector some time in the mid 200s, alternator brushes around 280k and replaced the rear calipers in the low 300s when one of the parking brake adjusters finally seized. Incredibly trouble free car! Oh yeah, did the radiator somewhere in there, too, probably in the 200s.
The Japanese - made radiators are having less problems but it is a simple fix with a Koyo / Flying Miata or similar. Never had an oil leak on rocker cover. The sealing had been replaced during timing belt service every 100000 kms so no problems there. Soft top- come on, it is logical that that is not lasting more than 10 years. But had to replace ignition wires to NGK on both my NA and NB 10.Anni. Some have NGK from factory, mine ( Germany ) doesn`t. Brakes, Brake disks- replaced the front calipers on my NB for 4 pots and Zimmermann brake rotors + Stahlflex PTFE ss braidet lines. Great upgrade. And Bilstein shocks if not already in ...
I've owned my N/A for eleven years. The UK climate isn't kind to bodywork, but because my MX-5 had always been reliable and my wonderful local garage had maintained it mechanically over the years, I decided on two new wings (fenders, I think you folks in the USA call them) plus having the rot cut out and new metal welded in at the rear wheel arches. That was four years ago, and it was cheaper than buying another car - plus I know the car's history whilst in my care. All of the issues you mention are spot-on, all part of normal wear and tear. My car's had a new convertible roof, clutch servo cylinders, new suspension springs (I blame the ridiculous speed humps in our area, even though I'm careful when driving over them), new brake discs, new clutch, camshaft cover gasket, battery, driver's door handle spring and four tyres. To help preserve the bodywork, the underside's been sprayed with Waxoyl. It seems to be very effective. Importantly, all of this has been affordable!
Lettings everybody pass on the track straights and catching them up in corners... Balance comes with a reliable turbo setup, grip- and brake upgrades as well
the one problem ive had recently is a beltsquealing on cold starts. Not just sometimes, but EVERY cold start. The belt tension and pulleys are fine. I also have the rear main seal leak issue. But that's it. I've had most of my issues fixed on my 223K mile miata.
I've owned a 2000 for 12 years. Bought it from the original owner...an older guy who bought it new, and sold it when he and his wife couldn't get out of it anymore...lol It was at 100k when i bought it, now it's at 148k. It's always been garaged, and the condition it's in backs that up. All I've done, are timely oil changes, and coolant changes every few years, new tires a couple times, new brake pads once, new fuel filter, replaced the rear end and manual trans fluids, rebuild kit for the 5 speed shifter, new engine belts recently, new timing belt and water pump, new camshaft position sensor, new fuel pump and new radiator. As was mentioned in this video, the radiator hadn't yet failed, but it was definitely turning a greeny/brown color. I know I need to replace all the struts...just haven't taken the time, or worked up the energy to do that yet. Reading my list makes it sound like a lot...but keep in mind that's over 12 years, and the enjoyment we've had in that car is priceless!
I have a mint condition 2001 Miata LS and be 1.8 L. Since buying new off the lot, the only thing that is gone wrong on the vehicle was a slight misfire on multiple cylinders. After it been sitting for five years in the driveway we change the coil pack, and she’s been running great.
Had a 97 myself. Drove it for five years and the only things I ever had to do were change the oil and put gas in it. Was a great car, no oil leaks, no rust. Had a glass back window and a few up grade parts in it. Aluminum radiator, stainless headers and exhaust system, after market sway bars, lightened flywheel. Have a 2003 BMW Z4 I bought new and it has also been a great car. Changed the valve cover gasket at 112,000 because I wanted to see what it looked like inside with those miles, wasn't difficult.
i have a '89 Eunos at 190K miles in the UK which is very wet. It has the original roof with no cracks, rain-rail fine although needed new foam installed inside rubbers around windows. Water inside the car often due to blocked drain pipes behind the seats. Rear wheel arches rust as do windscreen surround. Electric windows on NA can be a problem but are fixed with a deep clean and new bushes. Gear change can become loose between 2nd and 3rd, replace the nylon bush on the bottom of the gear selector rod, simple 60 min job.
I have a softtop company for over 30 years , and I can tell you it is one of the best hoods/ ragtop/ softtop ..the water coming out of the bottom is blocked drainage..overflowing. I have personally had more than 10 of these cars ..a cheap fantastic convertible...
2002 Miata. Original owner. 75K. Sat outside and driven year round (great sled!) for first 5 or so years. Yes, rust, especially rocker panels and lower fenders but also muffler heat shields (just removed). Replaced the rear O2 sensor ~50K. New top and rain rail about same time. Valve cover gasket is leaking but not enough to worry about. Air conditioner compressor failed at ~60K but who needs it anyway.
Slave cylinder from the clutch, Pcv valve, Temperatuur sensor at the back of the engine, Airvalve, Jammed power windows, Poor rust repair In the first year/9000miles of my ownership of a 96 NA But all diy jobs and loads of Fun fixing it!
1996 200k miles RMS Oil Leak Leaking Top Seals Valve Cover Leak Water Pump Seal Leak IAC Corrosion leading to bad idle Torn Rear Diff Axel Boot Throwout Bearing Speed Cable in Dash needing Lubrication Leaky Brake Booster Cracked PCV These are all the issues I’ve had, Allot are the result of general maintenance and have since been mended. Excellent car
I own an nb1 1.8 with 99K miles.The major issue I had/have is some idle drop getting to a stop sign (breaking or not). Other than that is perfect, no rust, no leaks. I do trackdays 1 or 2 per year.
I have a 96 with 275k miles. It's been very well maintained so no oil leaks or anything of the sort. I have an aluminum radiator. The only issue is floppy vents and rust on the rear quarters since the old owner never cleaned the rain drain
In Scotland, only one main problem: Rust! So common that all chassis rail replacement, sill parts etc can be purhased and welded in! Honda seal on the cam cover solves that oil leak!
I have owned an NA the only thing I did was replace the clutch at 140.000 k; and now NC; I bought used I have been driving for 4 years , putting a lot of kms, not one issue so far , no rust at all an any of them. Take care of funnest car to drive
In 2000, I picked up a '97 NA, leather, auto, A/C w/ 4,600 miles. Still runs like a top w/ 270k miles. Radiator began its greenish brown inevitable leak & weep in 2007 (102k miles). Replaced w/ a Koyo OE spec & it's still holding strong. P/S pump needed a seal kit in 2017 (227K miles). Rad fan motor in 2011. Nothing other than good maintenance including the front fender debris cleanout & top drain tubes check & clean. The oil leaks at the valve cover & CAS o-ring shouldn't be a problem if you change them w/ every timing belt job. The earlier NB tops had service bulletin upgrades to the springs & rain rail side plates done to prevent a pinch & wear issue on the tops. If you have an NA w/ a bad plastic window, just find a good NB top w/ a glass window. It bolts right in. It might be hard to find good ones anymore tho' this far down the road. One thing for certain is u-joints more than likely going sometime. On my NA, that means replacing the driveshaft as they're not replaceable. Mine went at 160K miles, junk yard drive shaft for $100 in 2012 is starting to clang so I have a new Dorman I'll give a shot that's ready to go in soon as I get it on jacks for some other maint work. Oh, the other "oddity" is the speedo cable. It'll start chirping when it's cold out & bounce the speed needle a bit. A new one is also sitting on the shelf (for 3 years) waiting for my lazy 70 year old ass... A good thorough maintenance schedule & keeping up w all the little minor things that can pop up over the years & these things are damn near bullet proof, IMHO.
I've got a '95 NA: radiator, front wings, rear wheel arches and sills (front and rear) - twice. Two sets of springs and dampers. Clutch slave cylinder. Ignition coil and rain rail (fixed with wide insulating tape). It's a stock 1.8 (with 16° advance) and it goes like stink - using 97 octane. It's going to rust again, but I don't care, because I love the way it goes and handles 😀
I’ve had the misfortune of having an unscheduled valve cover gasket replacement due to the factory PCV breaking into a thousand pieces while replacing the PCV to intake hose. Wasn’t too bad, but wasn’t fun either.
If you have a decent roof and you use a good quality protectant then the roof will last the life of the car. as for the frame rails. If you keep them clean of leaves and debris they will last without cracking or breaking down. Also, if you keep the car in a garage you will extend its life indefinitely. For sure, the sagging vents. But, they are as mentioned really easy to replace.
My 92 has over 200,000 miles and I have no oil leaks, and my radiator looks like new, so there’s something to be said for regular maintenance (though if you’re not the original owner, you can’t really help if previous owners neglected the car).
I have a 2003 with 138,000 miles. It has always been garaged. Many coats of quality wax. No rust. Original convertible top; no leaks. Normal brakes checks. Many people say it looks like it came off the dealers lot. Time for a once over by my mechanic.
I have a 1996 with 196000 miles, I had to replace the clutch slave twice. Yes, mine has drooping vents, original top but the back window turned yellow and cracked. Mine does not leak oil, I had to replace the radiator after a accident with a aftermarket,. Listen, I’ve owned cars with half the mileage and had a lot more problems (talking Vega, Chevette, Sprint) I love my Miata
Great video. I have a 2002 mx5 with 123k miles on her and sadly the bottom ends started knocking. Time for a new engine and maybe that supercharger I want.
(2) 1995 MX5-NA & (2) 1999 MX5-NB cars. When I bought the cars, 3 had sloppy shifters from the little plastic cylinder at the bottom end of the shift lever being destroyed by previous owners shifting like they were trying to break something. (4th car came with a Tremec WC-T5 trans, so that shifter hasn't broken.) In the three Mazda transmissions I replaced the plastic part with aluminum while installing short-throw shifters. (You think MX5-NA/NBs already shift perfect? Try a short-throw shifter!) Where fuel filler hose attaches to gas tank, rust inside the hose on the tank fitting (nipple? barb?) results in leaking maybe a drop a day when tank is at least 3/4 full. May not seem like a lot, but closed up on a hot day, I'm surprised how much the interior reeks of gas. Hydraulic clutch master and slave cylinders leaking. They seemed to fail completely without warning. Do you know how to drive a manual transmission home without using the clutch? Leather drivers' seats eventually wore out at the left hip bolster, like any other high mileage vehicle. Button on clutch pedal which disengages cruise control. Not as much rust as I expected, considering three of my cars were left exposed to tropical sun and seawater mist. He's right about soft tops not lasting in sunlight. Replaced all the obsolete OEM sound system head units. Isolated failures: OEM radiator, power window switch, headlight connector, hydraulic lifter, throttle cable, alternator, water pump, power steering rack leak, horn wiring in steering wheel, backup light switch. Overall, my four MX5 NA & NB cars have been extremely reliable in the past 10 years. If you would rather drive your sports car than work on it, get a Miata!🙂
@@win5947 It’s been flawless. The only thing I’ve needed to do is general maintenance. Oil and oil filter change etc. It’s been my daily this whole time, even through the Utah winter, and it’s been perfectly dependable. I’d recommend always driving with at least the running lights on, and maybe even getting a train horn lol. I live next to a high school, and so I’ve had a few close calls with high school kids not paying any attention at all. The train horn scares the bajebus out of them and they always stop immediately.
I have an NB. The left driving light fell in as the mounting rusted away. There is a signature spot for rust just above the front edge of the rear bumper skin on the rear left wheel arch. Also, the plastic rocker moldings and anti-scuff tape can hide a ton of rust. Look for lumps in the tape between the bottom of the door frame and the plastic molding. 😳 I will go so far as to say the tan vinyl tops are rubbish from the word go. Thanks for the video!
My NB1 has the tan vinyl top. It has some mold staining, but no rips or tears present or developing. Was a Michigan car for many years before coming to Florida.
2 - 1992's For thirty-year-old cars, they are quite remarkable. A little rust on the rear quarters from plugged drains on the black one, and a rattle in the speedo cable on the red one, but other than that still a lot of fun. Small issues over the years are as follows. New tops for both, but not too bad a job. Alternator chirp when cold. Black one Power window guides and lubricant. Both cars, but the red ones where MIA. Small oil leak from main seal on the black one. Radios are problematic at best. Red one's dead and the black one has ground issues. Easy cars to work on and parts are reasonable, some odd parts are getting hard to find. Needed a passenger side mirror for the red one and couldn't find a direct replacement, only glue on ones that covered the original and looked horrible. Not the cars fault I broke it doing something in the garage, replaced it with a used one.
Our mark 2. Now 25 years old. Vinyl roof replaced with canvas about 5years ago. Sills welding, of course. Otherwise bomb proof. And with a hydrophobic coating and polish, still the smartest car on the street.
Clutch slave and master are weak. Front hub broke in two pieces with lite track duty. Mine didn’t cause damage since I caught it immediately, but has caused extensive damage to many Miatas.
The people leaving negative comments are passing judgement on abused high mileage, 25+ year old cars. This video shows me how long lived and reliable these cars are. No, I don't own one and have never driven one. But, I intend to after watching this. Thanks.
Thanks so much for the review. I had a Miata years ago. Now that I’m retired my wife and I are looking into buying a nice newer Miata for our fun summer vehicle.
My NB is a 2004 LS, 225+ k miles, owned since 2006 and 22 k miles. Radiator no issue so far. Roof, I live in the desert, I replace it every 4 to 6 years. No oil leaks, but I do tend to replace seals / gaskets when I do things like timing belt changes. Floppy eyeballs / vents since the day I got it, so I have had felts in there since day one. Rust? Got to have rain for rust...I live in the desert and none of my 3 Miatas have had any rust. Same thing with the rain rail, I clean or replace every time I replace the roof, and it stays good to go for the duration.
If you want the valve cover to stay dry, get the valve cover gasket from the Mazda dealer. The genuine Mazda gasket has a sealing groove on the top and the bottom of the gasket. Not one of the aftermarket gaskets I have seen have a sealing groove on the top. I've had 100% success rate with the Mazda gaskets, every single time I've tried an aftermarket gasket it leaks sometimes immediately, sometimes a few months in. Just buy the Mazda part, it works.
I wish those were all the oil leaks. I've also had the cam shaft seals leak, the front crankshaft seals leak. And the worst of all I'm fixing now on an NA is the oil pump leaking at that gasket that runs along the top of it. Requires the engine to come out, since it's bolted into the oil pan at the bottom.
2003 Mx-5 Miata, have had to replace the fuel pump twice, seems to be a big problem if your Miata sits to long. Thanks for the info and will have to check your recommendations on my wife Miata. Thanks for the if info! Smooth riding!
I have a '90 and '99. Oil leaks from the crankshaft seal, and both cam seals. The worst was an oil leak where the oil pump butts up against the engine block along the top of the pump. 30+ year old gasket that looked like glass when I pulled it off. The worst is the fact the engine has to come out to fix that. Since to remove the oil pump the oil pan has to come off, and you can't do that with the engine in the car. Unless you pull the subframe out, which is probably even more work. My 90s transmission started getting stuck in reverse, even after freeing it with the screwdriver fix, it would do it again. So it had to come out for tear down and fix at a transmission shop. That only cost $500. The shop owner knew Miatas and he was so grateful I pulled the tranny out and put it back in, he gave me a big break on the price. Also they need new seals around the rear tail lights. Those only cost ike $12 each, but lots of water gets in the trunk around those and they are easy to replace. Don't park a Miata on a hill facing up it. Once you exceed the slight angle of the slope of the rain rail, the water can't flow uphill, so it builds up and spills over the side into the car. I have a hard top on my '99, but the 90 is soft top only. It has most of the problems.
radiator used to be like $50 to replace when I had a NA. I paid ~$470 for a glass window top. put in a NB Top frame. Outside of that, my shocks needed replacing (I got NB shocks where some NB owner swapped for Bilsteins) also every other month I replaced a relay or solenoid for between $15-60.
Every car, no matter how well designed and built will need basic care and maintenance. Most of the "problem" items discussed here are rather small. I've owned my 2003 NB since it was new and it has been a damn good car. I also own an E30 BMW and while the BMW is a blast to drive, it's more of a pain to service than the Miata and isn't as trouble free. I would recommend an NA or NB Miata to anyone, but they require maintenance and things wear out over time. I have had only two problems over almost 20 years. When I disconnect my battery, the intermittent monitors can take thousands of miles to set, which causes inspection problems in my state. I also had to rebuild my oil control valve and the solenoid for my variable valve timing system. Otherwise, I trust me NB to take me anywhere and get me home again.
Clutch slave cylinder and Cam Angle Sensor are also common failures which keep you from driving the car. Stabbing the cam angle sensor with the shaft slot aligned (in that narrow space) is a pain. I have replaced the roof once. The radiator has been replaced as well. Like any car, the battery has been replaced. The Miata is a 91 NA. Owned since 2012.
I'm not sure if you compared any 25-30 year old car of about the same price when new, that you'd have a car with so few faults, that provided so many smiles per mile. I had a '94 1.8 imported from Japan into the UK in 2009. I had the roof replaced by the specialist seller as part of the purchase price. The only problem I had in 5 years of ownership was rusty rear arches. Everything worked perfectly, even the AC, which isn't really a must have for the UK. Interestingly, after moving to S.E. Asia, I see a very few NAs for sale, no rust, great condition and generally very low mileage, but they're advertised for £20-25,000, that's $25-30,000!!!
I got a 2001 MX-5 hard suspension which is lower in ground and a skirt around 6-speed I love it I have 103,000 miles on it. The only problem I replace the rad, also cam shaft sensor now will have to replace cam shaft seal it start to leak also I beleive the rear main seal also will need to be replace I love my Miata rust free. I leave in Canada so I drive my Miata from May 1st to November 1st, also trying to not drive in the rain. The car is restore for 6 month in my garage not heated and a battery maintained charger 2 amp.
We have owned our '92 NA for 19 years. Annual oil chang and I had to put a new battery in it a few years ago. Most dependable fun car ever built. Leave it stock and drive it forever. Modify it and work on it forever. Buy a Corvette and throw money at it.
1996 145k miles 1.8l, cooling fan decides to stop working, water leaks, valve cover gasket leak, tail shaft seal, front u joint, and exhaust leaks. Other than those, great cars!
I have a 2000 NB. At one point the clip that holds the window puller cable in my passenger window came off and got in the way of the glass going down. That was an easy fix, just a zip tie in the door panel to hold the cable in place. It has an alright top and rain rail (I think) and I don't know if it has the rust. But it definitely leaks oil, the vents are floppy, and my radiator cracked at one point, I had to get a new radiator for it.
I had the original Miata (not turbo) , the one with the pop up headlights for 17 years! Never has any of those problems! Never has a brown radiator, the top stayed perfect, the eyeball vents never sagged. The rain wells did get clogged so I simply cleared them. I took great care of my Miata, including the top. I did put on aftermarket glass rear window because I got tired of the cars it took to keep the plastic clear. I sold her for practical reasons…a sad day for me. 1990 white Miata. I have a ton of photos but on UA-cam, no way to post them.
@@CashedOutCars any chance you have one about cheap functional upgrades? 90% of my friends are screaming for me to Autocross it but I don't want it any stiffer than it is now 😂
Another good helpful video. Maybe add the window switches failing, and windows needing cleaning/regreasing, and the center console lid latch and/or hinge breaking. (On my NB1 I glued in a flexible hinge and used a magnet from a hard drive so the lid just lifts open.) (Lots of posts on forums with somewhat complicated ways to remove the vents, but I saw one that showed a really simple way that doesn't risk scratching or damaging anything by just using a small hole in the vent.) *Sorry, didn't see window switches already mentioned.
Thanks! I've cleaned the windows and tracks and done the Shin Etsu grease and that's worked well, but I still have the nagging feeling I could have cleaned better because it's tough to get in there.
2002 NB LS model w/5 speed owner here. Have owned since 2008. The car resides in New England, and is never driven in the winter/early spring months. It gets stored in a heated garage. You can eat off the underside of this vehicle. Currently @ 130K miles. This has to be the most trouble free care I've ever owned. Sure there are some mechanical issues that arise (failed clutch slave cyl - easy fix; cam position sensor failed - again easy fix) and some that fall into the cosmetic category (deterioration of the soft top, cracked left bolster on driver's seat). Not sure about the other items you've highlighted here. As to the soft top, that's common for ANY drop-top vehicle. The trick is to replace the vinyl OEM unit with a quality canvas-type. Vinyl is no match for the elements, especially the UV rays. Do the rain rail & drains when replacing the top and you'll be set for years. I also take a holistic approach when doing any maintenance. For instance, when it was time to do the timing belt, I had my mechanic replace EVERY wear item within that assembly (water pump, hoses, fan belt etc.) It just makes sense to do these as a preventative measure while these parts are being removed. One thing that was NOT mentioned is the wheels. I have the OEM LS wheels, which are susceptible to damage and being knocked out of round. for their size, they are very light - not sure but they feel like they're made out of some sort of aluminum alloy. I've already had one wheel straightened and know of another one that also needs to be straightened as well. I purchased a salvage wheel so I can swap these out, one at a time while getting the damaged unit repaired. Luv, luv, luv this vehicle and hope to get MANY more miles from her!
Yep, had the radiator blow out. Top back window been gone for awhile. Probably have all the oil leaks mentioned. Vent droop, check. light on the rust though, live in desert/dry area. 1996 Miata.
![10 Tips For Buying YOUR Perfect Miata | Mazda MX5 Miata Buying Advice [NA and NB]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/DVCPFd3XxmU/mqdefault.jpg)
![10 Tips For Buying YOUR Perfect Miata | Mazda MX5 Miata Buying Advice [NA and NB]](/img/tr.png)
Fix your problems! (Affiliate links for which I may be compensated)
Radiators: amzn.to/3ih9AfU (Check NA vs NB fit)
Soft Tops / Rain Rails: amzn.to/2U5g0XL
Oil Leaks: amzn.to/3yZBfZz (Confirm fit)
Floppy Vents: ebay.us/ZtnKQK
Rust: amzn.to/2Te76qr
►Full Build Spreadsheet: bit.ly/3z0SCg4 (My Turbo NA)
►Falken 615K+ Tires: bit.ly/3MTZFuU
Awesome!
"You should expect some oil leaks from these cars"
BMW owners: That's cute.
"The valve cover is easy to replace"
BMW owners: *Screams in pure suffering*
There's a reason I bought a 2nd Miata and sold my german car...
actually, I have a miata and recently I sold an e46 which had no oil leaks anywhere, but it was overheating as hell which is the reason I sold it. Before that, I had an shitbox e36 sedan and it wasn't leaking oil but again... overheating.. I think it's my curse cause my miata is overheating too :(
Haha
@@richardbenko5196 IDK man, it might be something with your driving style :D
@The Career Neophyte You are stuck in Hotel Beemer Hell....you can decide to check out at any time but actually departing? That is the hell part....
1. Sill rust
2. Fender rust
3. Chassis rail rust
4. A-pillar rust
5. Subframe rust
Honourable mention to bootlid rust if the previous owner didn't connect the vent tubes to a wet lead acid battery.
so true :(
Where's the vent tubes?
1 rocker panel rust 2 chasis rail rust 3 oil leak 4 passenger power window motor dont Work
crying in my 1999 nb with rear fender rust
Still no rust on my '97. Kept inside every winter since new. Only driven through 1 winter.
We bought our 1990 MX-5 in 1994 and owned her for 20 years. The only problem we had was an oil leak that amounted to a quart per year. That being the rear seal, our mechanic advised us to just add oil when necessary. Otherwise, the Miata was just bulletproof. Admittedly, we kept her garaged.
nice
bro that sucks i was only imagining that i did all the work to get there just to do a rear main seal lol
Nice but if its a manual that will cause clutch slip and Hotspot on the flywheel .. but considering sounds like u got a killer deal bro ... peace and love
Same bro, had one for 40 thousand miles from 100,000 and have had none of these problems even with I'll admit light maintenance
2003 NB.
Radiator- replaced with an aluminium one.
Soft Top - replaced.
Oil Leaks - No. (manifold seal was replaced as per 100,000 km service)
Floppy Vents - yes. On the ‘to-do’ list.
Rust - No. Australia does not salt its roads.
2004 NB.
Radiator- replace with an aluminum one. On the ‘to-do’ list
Soft Top - replaced. but has small tear thats fixed
Oil Leaks - yes :) but not dripping on the ground
Floppy Vents - No. fixed with tape.
Rust - yes. rear wheel arch. In Finland salt allover the place on winter
@@Jusu.siltsu Do your thermostat at the same time. I sprung for a radiator replacement, mine was going green and running kinda hot when the AC was on (220F), went to aluminum rad, but it was actually just the thermostat. You can get more cooling performance boost by just goibng with new thermostat and coolant re-route than an alu rad, for less cash. mind you, the alu rad looks awesome and it was cheap enough anyway :)
Yea thank god I live where they don’t salt the roads otherwise it would be hell to maintain cars like these
@@mr.lostmyaccount4721 yea thats why everyone keep their project cars as summer cars
Do you have AC? Did your new aluminum radiator affect your AC radiator at all?
Keep your car clean, keep it out of the sun, these two things prevent all the problems mentioned in the video. My car is 20 years old and I haven’t had ANY of these problems.
This car is amazing.
They are the best cars. I agree, those things help a lot
Excellent presentation. I appreciate your "just-get-to-the-points" style.
4:07 “with age sometimes its hard to keep it up”
I have a 90’ miata with 328k miles and have done all things you mentioned.
BUT, I consider them problems applied to ANY CAR. Nothing unusual if you Truly care about your car and maintain it out of love. Just my 2cents!!!!
Thank you!
The power window switches in the NA. I became an expert at rebuilding these when I had my '97.
Those go bad on the NB, too. I tore the plastic lever assembly out and used the switches on the circuit board directly for a while before putting new levers in.
The top latches perform a similar trick with wear. They won’t stay in the latched position because the retaining nub wears off. I got “remanufactured” latches. Still overpriced, but cheaper than new factory items.
Think I’ll mention that the leather seats go to blazes in a hurry, too. Darn stuff.
everything about power windows in NA is constantly breaking down... I know what I'm talking about
I did have to replace the whole regulator in my driver's side once in 200K miles, but I had to clean and rebuild that switch at least 20 times in the same span.
i fixed mine by sanding the contact patches and removing a bit of the plastik on the switch it self, whrere the metal is. On my Miata it seemed like it got pushed into the plastik somehow.
Early Miatas? One of the best cars on earth, pure and simple. I’ve owned two of them, and I’d buy another in a heartbeat.
Absolutely. The one in this video is my 4th
what about new miatas in 2024
@@fernandogallegos9405 I personally love them
Was fully prepared to roll my eyes when I started watching your video. I apologize for that. I have a 95 Montego Blue with 215,000 mi on it. I've got about 10 grand into her, engine and transmission are fully stock. I consider myself a religious zealot in the Church of Miata, and your info was spot on. The only other known failure point on miatas I would bring up, are the clutch slave cylinders. It's a very easy fix, and a cheap part, but for some reason the seals tend to go out prematurely.
2003 NB owner. The only unscheduled maintenance that I've had to do with my car is to replace one of the header latches, as the locking mechanism can wear with use. If possible, I would recommend to keep the car garaged, as this keeps the weather off the car, as well as the debris.
I have a 93 NA and all the issues you addressed are spot on. I have had to replace the soft top. Clean out the rain rail drains unclog the pinch weld drains under the car. I have 290,000 miles and the engine doesn't leak oil so I have been lucky there. I really enjoy your videos and have been a subscriber for quite a while. Always good content. Keep them coming
Just bought my first Miata, so far every video uploaded has helped me so much
What year?
The Miata is a great car. I had a ‘93 that I kept almost 10 years. The only failure was a plastic gear in the window lift mechanism. Some design problems that were easily fixed such as a frame brace that was included from the factory I think in ‘94. When I sold it I bought a 2000 Corvette convertible. Now that was a car with lots of MAJOR design and manufacturing issues. More than I can remember. It looked good, had 29 mpg, quick acceleration and stopping. Altogether a different car. But from an engineering and quality perspective, Miata wins my vote!
BULL CRAP ITS A PIECE OF JUNK
I think the water pump is worth a mention. If you have a coolant drip in the front, get ready to take the front of the motor off and do the timing belt. It is 100% going to happen.
Happening to me rn
Audio is EXCELLENT. The whole video is Good. Many UA-cam videos will "show" but you can't hear and the producers are oblivious to it or don't care even with the volume up. This was excellent concise to the point and very informative.
Thank you for your comment! I always try to make my audio as clear as possible. I appreciate it!
MX-5 NB1 2000
Radiator crack? Check
Soft top rips? Check
Clogged rain rails? Check
Engine oil leaks? Check (front crankshaft and valve cover)
I would also add coil pack failure and power windows only rolling down half of the way! From my experience and what I read in other forums those two are also very common.
At least, it's a cheap car to fix! Great video man!
Thanks! Luckily nothing catastrophic tends to go wrong with these!
I've had my 2001 for 3 years. Had to blow out drains behind doors.
One window would only go down 5 inches - tie holding wiring disintegrated. Fixed with a cable tie.
To avoid rust and soft-top problems keep garaged if possible.
Thanks for excellent video!
My 1995 Gen 1, Series 2 (1.8L) in Classic Red acquired in 2001. Always garaged and not driven in winter. Now with 132,247 miles. Head gasket replaced in 2017. Radiator replaced with an aluminum Mishimoto in 2018. Just replaced the soft top and rain rail this June. Maintenance costs over 21 years of my ownership is $7,451.13 or $354.82/year. Pristine appearance and shown frequently at auto shows. Lovin' every minute of it.
2000 Miata Thrust Bearing Failure at 20xxx . Bought used engine that had the same problem Remove and replace engine 2x . Set thrust bearing properly at minimum. No problem since. I have had multiple slave cylinders fail. Clutch master fail x 2 Fuel pump failure in 2023. Rear calipers leaking x 2 Water Pump failure, replaced, switch for electric mirrors failure, replaced. Replaced green radiator. Replaced top with Robbins Top. Keep up the good work.
1993 NA Miata here. Yes to all. Completely accurate and yet still a very amazingly resilient car. I’m not a mechanic and did replace my own radiator. Get puppy pads to prevent spills on the driveway. I also replaced the gasket seal but even taking great care and adding the extra sealant to problem areas the gasket still leaks. This may be something in need a professional to do since I already had my hand at it. Lastly SPARK PLUGS. The Miata eats spark plugs. I bought premium ones after replacing them a few times and they lasted just as long, not worth the up charge. It’s just a yearly thing I do now.
was your oil leaking on the belt? i’m trying to buy a 96 and it’s leaking oil on the belt near the alternator.
Picking up mine in about 2 hours. A 1996 1.8 NA and genuine rocket bunny kit.... can't wait.
I have a 1990 Miata and have had no problems at all. The AC needs work after 34 years. It is the best car I have ever owned
3:13 - Not just the rear main seal. There is a carrier for the rear main on the NA and NB's, that can make it look like the rear main is leaking, you'll have to replace part of the oil pan gasket for this as well. I recommend you replace both if you are doing a rear main seal job to avoid removing your transmission more than once. The carrier for the rear main seal will look like the rear main is leaking when you get there, heads up.....Hopefully this will help one person.
Thanks! Can you link to this part? I've fixed all of my leaks (including cam and crank pulleys) and so now fixing to pull the trans and only want to do this once!
I have a 2001 NB2 with 60,000 miles. Replaced the radiator when purchased, cleaned out the drains and fender panel. Sprayed anti corrosion on inside of panels. Swapped AC vents with 2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse (slightly modified). One problem that WILL happen and one I consider more important than floppy vents is the soft top latches wear and won't stay shut. You'll be driving, the wind will catch your top and rip it open.
Just bought my second nb sold my first one a couple years ago. Just got a 2001. Classic red. No body kit bs. All stock. 43,870 miles. 5 speed. Zero rust. Though i live in New England. Bought it off an older guy who kept it in his garage. It's so nice i can't even do any of the mods i had planned... feels like a crime to charge to much on it. 👍 subscribed.
Welcome to the channel, that car sounds like a beauty! Enjoy it!
Just to add to the oil leak problem don’t forget that oil and coolant hoses don’t go well with each other since the cam seal on the back of the head is such an issue it will always cause the heater core hose directly under it to wear much faster don’t forget to check for a squishy or ballooning hose!
Very helpful, easy to understand tips on what to watch out for. - many thanks. My '97 NA Speedster is garaged year round. When putting away for the winter I put the top up to keep the material straight and in its natural position. However, to avoid strain over 6 months of storage, I DON'T latch the top to the windshield - just let it sit up in its natural position. A top boot/tonneau cover is a must to keep out the sun, dust and moisture. When folding down the top, make sure your vinyl window isn't creased or folded crookedly. I also tuck a rolled up towel in the outside of the rear window when the top is down, to minimize any creasing and to keep out dust. Regular cleaning and treating a vinyl top will ensure a long life. I believe there are about 13 (!) drain tubes on NA Miatas. Carefully cleaning them out will help fend off lower body rust and prevent water in the interior.
'96 black and tan, bought new. Driven year round up until fall of 2013, ~352k on the clock and currently sitting in my garage waiting to be restored thanks to the liquid car dissolver CT uses on the roads in winter. Other than routine scheduled maintenance & brake pads/rotors (and go-fast goodies like shocks, springs and sway bars), it was a very reliable car. Replaced a weeping differential axle shaft seal at 66k, and welded a rusted through exhaust flange somewhere in the mid 100s. Had to replace a rear wheel bearing somewhere in the low 200s. Finally did the water pump and hoses with the 240k timing belt replacement, replaced a dead fuel injector some time in the mid 200s, alternator brushes around 280k and replaced the rear calipers in the low 300s when one of the parking brake adjusters finally seized. Incredibly trouble free car! Oh yeah, did the radiator somewhere in there, too, probably in the 200s.
The Japanese - made radiators are having less problems but it is a simple fix with a Koyo / Flying Miata or similar. Never had an oil leak on rocker cover. The sealing had been replaced during timing belt service every 100000 kms so no problems there. Soft top- come on, it is logical that that is not lasting more than 10 years. But had to replace ignition wires to NGK on both my NA and NB 10.Anni. Some have NGK from factory, mine ( Germany ) doesn`t. Brakes, Brake disks- replaced the front calipers on my NB for 4 pots and Zimmermann brake rotors + Stahlflex PTFE ss braidet lines. Great upgrade. And Bilstein shocks if not already in ...
I've owned my N/A for eleven years. The UK climate isn't kind to bodywork, but because my MX-5 had always been reliable and my wonderful local garage had maintained it mechanically over the years, I decided on two new wings (fenders, I think you folks in the USA call them) plus having the rot cut out and new metal welded in at the rear wheel arches. That was four years ago, and it was cheaper than buying another car - plus I know the car's history whilst in my care.
All of the issues you mention are spot-on, all part of normal wear and tear. My car's had a new convertible roof, clutch servo cylinders, new suspension springs (I blame the ridiculous speed humps in our area, even though I'm careful when driving over them), new brake discs, new clutch, camshaft cover gasket, battery, driver's door handle spring and four tyres. To help preserve the bodywork, the underside's been sprayed with Waxoyl. It seems to be very effective.
Importantly, all of this has been affordable!
Lettings everybody pass on the track straights and catching them up in corners... Balance comes with a reliable turbo setup, grip- and brake upgrades as well
I have a 1990 thats rust free and has zero leaks or issues hopefully it stays this way as it has 175k
same here, mines like at 230k and has a bunch of suspension work done on it but i need to replace the front end of the thing
keep on top of the scheduled maintenance and it should keep on going. A guy in my miata club has a NA with 300K miles on it, never had the head off
the one problem ive had recently is a beltsquealing on cold starts. Not just sometimes, but EVERY cold start. The belt tension and pulleys are fine. I also have the rear main seal leak issue. But that's it. I've had most of my issues fixed on my 223K mile miata.
I've owned a 2000 for 12 years. Bought it from the original owner...an older guy who bought it new, and sold it when he and his wife couldn't get out of it anymore...lol It was at 100k when i bought it, now it's at 148k. It's always been garaged, and the condition it's in backs that up. All I've done, are timely oil changes, and coolant changes every few years, new tires a couple times, new brake pads once, new fuel filter, replaced the rear end and manual trans fluids, rebuild kit for the 5 speed shifter, new engine belts recently, new timing belt and water pump, new camshaft position sensor, new fuel pump and new radiator. As was mentioned in this video, the radiator hadn't yet failed, but it was definitely turning a greeny/brown color. I know I need to replace all the struts...just haven't taken the time, or worked up the energy to do that yet. Reading my list makes it sound like a lot...but keep in mind that's over 12 years, and the enjoyment we've had in that car is priceless!
I have a mint condition 2001 Miata LS and be 1.8 L. Since buying new off the lot, the only thing that is gone wrong on the vehicle was a slight misfire on multiple cylinders. After it been sitting for five years in the driveway we change the coil pack, and she’s been running great.
Had a 97 myself. Drove it for five years and the only things I ever had to do were change the oil and put gas in it. Was a great car, no oil leaks, no rust. Had a glass back window and a few up grade parts in it. Aluminum radiator, stainless headers and exhaust system, after market sway bars, lightened flywheel. Have a 2003 BMW Z4 I bought new and it has also been a great car. Changed the valve cover gasket at 112,000 because I wanted to see what it looked like inside with those miles, wasn't difficult.
They’re amazing! Enjoy the new Z too
i have a '89 Eunos at 190K miles in the UK which is very wet. It has the original roof with no cracks, rain-rail fine although needed new foam installed inside rubbers around windows. Water inside the car often due to blocked drain pipes behind the seats.
Rear wheel arches rust as do windscreen surround. Electric windows on NA can be a problem but are fixed with a deep clean and new bushes. Gear change can become loose between 2nd and 3rd, replace the nylon bush on the bottom of the gear selector rod, simple 60 min job.
I have a softtop company for over 30 years , and I can tell you it is one of the best hoods/ ragtop/ softtop ..the water coming out of the bottom is blocked drainage..overflowing. I have personally had more than 10 of these cars ..a cheap fantastic convertible...
99 MX-5 NB 1.8
Thanks! I’m looking for a first car and been thinking about miatas, we call them mx-5 here
2002 Miata. Original owner. 75K. Sat outside and driven year round (great sled!) for first 5 or so years. Yes, rust, especially rocker panels and lower fenders but also muffler heat shields (just removed). Replaced the rear O2 sensor ~50K. New top and rain rail about same time. Valve cover gasket is leaking but not enough to worry about. Air conditioner compressor failed at ~60K but who needs it anyway.
Slave cylinder from the clutch,
Pcv valve,
Temperatuur sensor at the back of the engine,
Airvalve,
Jammed power windows,
Poor rust repair
In the first year/9000miles of my ownership of a 96 NA
But all diy jobs and loads of Fun fixing it!
1996 200k miles
RMS Oil Leak
Leaking Top Seals
Valve Cover Leak
Water Pump Seal Leak
IAC Corrosion leading to bad idle
Torn Rear Diff Axel Boot
Throwout Bearing
Speed Cable in Dash needing Lubrication
Leaky Brake Booster
Cracked PCV
These are all the issues I’ve had, Allot are the result of general maintenance and have since been mended. Excellent car
I own an nb1 1.8 with 99K miles.The major issue I had/have is some idle drop getting to a stop sign (breaking or not). Other than that is perfect, no rust, no leaks. I do trackdays 1 or 2 per year.
Nice! Where do you track it?
@@CashedOutCars overseas! Canary islands 🌅
Same how did u fix it?
mk2's also rust on the front chassis rails. since its structural its really worth checking and fixing immediately if they are swollen!
I loved my 90 Miata.
It was Red with Tan interior. It was a perfect car for a 25 year old man
My Miata had 1 previous owner and it just so happened to be in a coastal region, I’ve never seen so much rust before!
I have a 96 with 275k miles. It's been very well maintained so no oil leaks or anything of the sort. I have an aluminum radiator. The only issue is floppy vents and rust on the rear quarters since the old owner never cleaned the rain drain
Get it up to 1,000,000 miles :) Enjoy it!
What a great time to live on the west coast, ive never seen a rusty miata, maybe a few rusty mufflers but thats it
Iv just bought a 2005 mx5 vvt with 31.000 gen miles and just seeing this will help me keep my miata rust free
Enjoy it! They’re great cars that last a very long time with just basic maintenance
@@CashedOutCars thanks I can't wait till its on the road very soon I work in a garage so it will get the best of every thing 👍
In Scotland, only one main problem: Rust! So common that all chassis rail replacement, sill parts etc can be purhased and welded in! Honda seal on the cam cover solves that oil leak!
Yeah, that’s common anywhere with harsher environments unfortunately. They’re amazing other than that
I have owned an NA the only thing I did was replace the clutch at 140.000 k; and now NC; I bought used I have been driving for 4 years , putting a lot of kms, not one issue so far , no rust at all an any of them.
Take care of funnest car to drive
These cars are so reliable that you need to find unreliable things about it 😂
Never had any of those problems on my NA, but I have had master/slave clutch issues. Cheap and easy to fix.
That's a very common one too. Enjoy it!
Hi Susan , my clutch is messing up . Seems to engage at different locations of peddle how did yo7 know it was a salve ?..
In 2000, I picked up a '97 NA, leather, auto, A/C w/ 4,600 miles. Still runs like a top w/ 270k miles. Radiator began its greenish brown inevitable leak & weep in 2007 (102k miles). Replaced w/ a Koyo OE spec & it's still holding strong. P/S pump needed a seal kit in 2017 (227K miles). Rad fan motor in 2011. Nothing other than good maintenance including the front fender debris cleanout & top drain tubes check & clean. The oil leaks at the valve cover & CAS o-ring shouldn't be a problem if you change them w/ every timing belt job.
The earlier NB tops had service bulletin upgrades to the springs & rain rail side plates done to prevent a pinch & wear issue on the tops. If you have an NA w/ a bad plastic window, just find a good NB top w/ a glass window. It bolts right in. It might be hard to find good ones anymore tho' this far down the road.
One thing for certain is u-joints more than likely going sometime. On my NA, that means replacing the driveshaft as they're not replaceable. Mine went at 160K miles, junk yard drive shaft for $100 in 2012 is starting to clang so I have a new Dorman I'll give a shot that's ready to go in soon as I get it on jacks for some other maint work. Oh, the other "oddity" is the speedo cable. It'll start chirping when it's cold out & bounce the speed needle a bit. A new one is also sitting on the shelf (for 3 years) waiting for my lazy 70 year old ass...
A good thorough maintenance schedule & keeping up w all the little minor things that can pop up over the years & these things are damn near bullet proof, IMHO.
I've got a '95 NA: radiator, front wings, rear wheel arches and sills (front and rear) - twice. Two sets of springs and dampers. Clutch slave cylinder. Ignition coil and rain rail (fixed with wide insulating tape).
It's a stock 1.8 (with 16° advance) and it goes like stink - using 97 octane.
It's going to rust again, but I don't care, because I love the way it goes and handles 😀
97 octane? We only get 93 here in the states. Must be a right old banger.
I believe the octane rating is a different scale over seas
I’ve had the misfortune of having an unscheduled valve cover gasket replacement due to the factory PCV breaking into a thousand pieces while replacing the PCV to intake hose. Wasn’t too bad, but wasn’t fun either.
25 years on, still waiting for any of these to happen.
Lucky model I guess
If you have a decent roof and you use a good quality protectant then the roof will last the life of the car.
as for the frame rails. If you keep them clean of leaves and debris they will last without cracking or breaking down. Also, if you keep the car in a garage you will extend its life indefinitely.
For sure, the sagging vents. But, they are as mentioned really easy to replace.
My 92 has over 200,000 miles and I have no oil leaks, and my radiator looks like new, so there’s something to be said for regular maintenance (though if you’re not the original owner, you can’t really help if previous owners neglected the car).
Absolutely, my 93 has 216k and is turbocharged.. still going strong!
I have a 2003 with 138,000 miles. It has always been garaged. Many coats of quality wax. No rust. Original convertible top; no leaks. Normal brakes checks. Many people say it looks like it came off the dealers lot. Time for a once over by my mechanic.
Enjoy it!
Glad I replaced my vinyl top with cloth top. More durable
And looks great too!
Did you put it on yourself? To take a long time?
I have a 1996 with 196000 miles, I had to replace the clutch slave twice. Yes, mine has drooping vents, original top but the back window turned yellow and cracked. Mine does not leak oil, I had to replace the radiator after a accident with a aftermarket,. Listen, I’ve owned cars with half the mileage and had a lot more problems (talking Vega, Chevette, Sprint) I love my Miata
Just brought my 2000 Miata LS home yesterday. Thanks for the content!!
Enjoy it!
Great video. I have a 2002 mx5 with 123k miles on her and sadly the bottom ends started knocking. Time for a new engine and maybe that supercharger I want.
(2) 1995 MX5-NA & (2) 1999 MX5-NB cars.
When I bought the cars, 3 had sloppy shifters from the little plastic cylinder at the bottom end of the shift lever being destroyed by previous owners shifting like they were trying to break something. (4th car came with a Tremec WC-T5 trans, so that shifter hasn't broken.) In the three Mazda transmissions I replaced the plastic part with aluminum while installing short-throw shifters. (You think MX5-NA/NBs already shift perfect? Try a short-throw shifter!)
Where fuel filler hose attaches to gas tank, rust inside the hose on the tank fitting (nipple? barb?) results in leaking maybe a drop a day when tank is at least 3/4 full. May not seem like a lot, but closed up on a hot day, I'm surprised how much the interior reeks of gas.
Hydraulic clutch master and slave cylinders leaking. They seemed to fail completely without warning. Do you know how to drive a manual transmission home without using the clutch?
Leather drivers' seats eventually wore out at the left hip bolster, like any other high mileage vehicle.
Button on clutch pedal which disengages cruise control.
Not as much rust as I expected, considering three of my cars were left exposed to tropical sun and seawater mist.
He's right about soft tops not lasting in sunlight.
Replaced all the obsolete OEM sound system head units.
Isolated failures: OEM radiator, power window switch, headlight connector, hydraulic lifter, throttle cable, alternator, water pump, power steering rack leak, horn wiring in steering wheel, backup light switch.
Overall, my four MX5 NA & NB cars have been extremely reliable in the past 10 years. If you would rather drive your sports car than work on it, get a Miata!🙂
I just bought a 2003 NB, and I’m so excited! I remember wanting one the first time I saw one.
How is it going for you? I'm about to buy a 2002. I'm not much of a car guy 😅
@@win5947 It’s been flawless. The only thing I’ve needed to do is general maintenance. Oil and oil filter change etc. It’s been my daily this whole time, even through the Utah winter, and it’s been perfectly dependable. I’d recommend always driving with at least the running lights on, and maybe even getting a train horn lol. I live next to a high school, and so I’ve had a few close calls with high school kids not paying any attention at all. The train horn scares the bajebus out of them and they always stop immediately.
I have an NB. The left driving light fell in as the mounting rusted away. There is a signature spot for rust just above the front edge of the rear bumper skin on the rear left wheel arch. Also, the plastic rocker moldings and anti-scuff tape can hide a ton of rust. Look for lumps in the tape between the bottom of the door frame and the plastic molding. 😳
I will go so far as to say the tan vinyl tops are rubbish from the word go.
Thanks for the video!
My NB1 has the tan vinyl top. It has some mold staining, but no rips or tears present or developing. Was a Michigan car for many years before coming to Florida.
@@mr.butterworth my poor car has lived outdoors ever since I got it. First thing I ever said to it was, “Your easy life is over…”
2 - 1992's For thirty-year-old cars, they are quite remarkable. A little rust on the rear quarters from plugged drains on the black one, and a rattle in the speedo cable on the red one, but other than that still a lot of fun. Small issues over the years are as follows.
New tops for both, but not too bad a job.
Alternator chirp when cold. Black one
Power window guides and lubricant. Both cars, but the red ones where MIA.
Small oil leak from main seal on the black one.
Radios are problematic at best. Red one's dead and the black one has ground issues.
Easy cars to work on and parts are reasonable, some odd parts are getting hard to find. Needed a passenger side mirror for the red one and couldn't find a direct replacement, only glue on ones that covered the original and looked horrible. Not the cars fault I broke it doing something in the garage, replaced it with a used one.
Our mark 2. Now 25 years old. Vinyl roof replaced with canvas about 5years ago. Sills welding, of course. Otherwise bomb proof. And with a hydrophobic coating and polish, still the smartest car on the street.
Clutch slave and master are weak.
Front hub broke in two pieces with lite track duty. Mine didn’t cause damage since I caught it immediately, but has caused extensive damage to many Miatas.
The people leaving negative comments are passing judgement on abused high mileage, 25+ year old cars. This video shows me how long lived and reliable these cars are. No, I don't own one and have never driven one. But, I intend to after watching this. Thanks.
That’s what I was trying to convey with this video, they’re truly great, and highly reliable cars!
Hi, and thanks for your reply. I am going to buy one. Have put my motorcycle up for sale.
Thanks so much for the review.
I had a Miata years ago.
Now that I’m retired my wife and I are looking into buying a nice newer Miata for our fun summer vehicle.
All generations are great! Enjoy it when you get one
pro-tip for the vents; just press the inwards a bit and then they'll stay at their position.
My NB is a 2004 LS, 225+ k miles, owned since 2006 and 22 k miles. Radiator no issue so far. Roof, I live in the desert, I replace it every 4 to 6 years. No oil leaks, but I do tend to replace seals / gaskets when I do things like timing belt changes. Floppy eyeballs / vents since the day I got it, so I have had felts in there since day one. Rust? Got to have rain for rust...I live in the desert and none of my 3 Miatas have had any rust. Same thing with the rain rail, I clean or replace every time I replace the roof, and it stays good to go for the duration.
Lost me with your "green" radiators. Still, I'll pay attention on my ND. Thanks for the tips.
Great video..I have a 2006 touring that has 115k miles and so far I've only had to replace the electric thermostat.
If you want the valve cover to stay dry, get the valve cover gasket from the Mazda dealer. The genuine Mazda gasket has a sealing groove on the top and the bottom of the gasket. Not one of the aftermarket gaskets I have seen have a sealing groove on the top. I've had 100% success rate with the Mazda gaskets, every single time I've tried an aftermarket gasket it leaks sometimes immediately, sometimes a few months in. Just buy the Mazda part, it works.
I agree, I had to replace mine twice on my NA
I wish those were all the oil leaks. I've also had the cam shaft seals leak, the front crankshaft seals leak. And the worst of all I'm fixing now on an NA is the oil pump leaking at that gasket that runs along the top of it. Requires the engine to come out, since it's bolted into the oil pan at the bottom.
2003 Mx-5 Miata, have had to replace the fuel pump twice, seems to be a big problem if your Miata sits to long. Thanks for the info and will have to check your recommendations on my wife Miata. Thanks for the if info! Smooth riding!
I have a '90 and '99. Oil leaks from the crankshaft seal, and both cam seals. The worst was an oil leak where the oil pump butts up against the engine block along the top of the pump. 30+ year old gasket that looked like glass when I pulled it off. The worst is the fact the engine has to come out to fix that. Since to remove the oil pump the oil pan has to come off, and you can't do that with the engine in the car. Unless you pull the subframe out, which is probably even more work. My 90s transmission started getting stuck in reverse, even after freeing it with the screwdriver fix, it would do it again. So it had to come out for tear down and fix at a transmission shop. That only cost $500. The shop owner knew Miatas and he was so grateful I pulled the tranny out and put it back in, he gave me a big break on the price. Also they need new seals around the rear tail lights. Those only cost ike $12 each, but lots of water gets in the trunk around those and they are easy to replace. Don't park a Miata on a hill facing up it. Once you exceed the slight angle of the slope of the rain rail, the water can't flow uphill, so it builds up and spills over the side into the car. I have a hard top on my '99, but the 90 is soft top only. It has most of the problems.
radiator used to be like $50 to replace when I had a NA. I paid ~$470 for a glass window top. put in a NB Top frame. Outside of that, my shocks needed replacing (I got NB shocks where some NB owner swapped for Bilsteins) also every other month I replaced a relay or solenoid for between $15-60.
Every car, no matter how well designed and built will need basic care and maintenance. Most of the "problem" items discussed here are rather small. I've owned my 2003 NB since it was new and it has been a damn good car. I also own an E30 BMW and while the BMW is a blast to drive, it's more of a pain to service than the Miata and isn't as trouble free. I would recommend an NA or NB Miata to anyone, but they require maintenance and things wear out over time. I have had only two problems over almost 20 years. When I disconnect my battery, the intermittent monitors can take thousands of miles to set, which causes inspection problems in my state. I also had to rebuild my oil control valve and the solenoid for my variable valve timing system. Otherwise, I trust me NB to take me anywhere and get me home again.
Clutch slave cylinder and Cam Angle Sensor are also common failures which keep you from driving the car. Stabbing the cam angle sensor with the shaft slot aligned (in that narrow space) is a pain.
I have replaced the roof once. The radiator has been replaced as well. Like any car, the battery has been replaced.
The Miata is a 91 NA. Owned since 2012.
I'm not sure if you compared any 25-30 year old car of about the same price when new, that you'd have a car with so few faults, that provided so many smiles per mile.
I had a '94 1.8 imported from Japan into the UK in 2009. I had the roof replaced by the specialist seller as part of the purchase price. The only problem I had in 5 years of ownership was rusty rear arches. Everything worked perfectly, even the AC, which isn't really a must have for the UK.
Interestingly, after moving to S.E. Asia, I see a very few NAs for sale, no rust, great condition and generally very low mileage, but they're advertised for £20-25,000, that's $25-30,000!!!
Forgot one thing, especially when buying - timing belt…
Straight to the point. I REALLY like that.
I appreciate that!
I got a 2001 MX-5 hard suspension which is lower in ground and a skirt around 6-speed I love it I have 103,000 miles on it. The only problem I replace the rad, also cam shaft sensor now will have to replace cam shaft seal it start to leak also I beleive the rear main seal also will need to be replace I love my Miata rust free. I leave in Canada so I drive my Miata from May 1st to November 1st, also trying to not drive in the rain. The car is restore for 6 month in my garage not heated and a battery maintained charger 2 amp.
We have owned our '92 NA for 19 years. Annual oil chang and I had to put a new battery in it a few years ago. Most dependable fun car ever built. Leave it stock and drive it forever. Modify it and work on it forever. Buy a Corvette and throw money at it.
I owned a 1999 MX5 1.8SE from new for nearly 20 years. I didn't experience any of these.
1996 145k miles 1.8l, cooling fan decides to stop working, water leaks, valve cover gasket leak, tail shaft seal, front u joint, and exhaust leaks. Other than those, great cars!
I have a 2000 NB.
At one point the clip that holds the window puller cable in my passenger window came off and got in the way of the glass going down. That was an easy fix, just a zip tie in the door panel to hold the cable in place.
It has an alright top and rain rail (I think) and I don't know if it has the rust. But it definitely leaks oil, the vents are floppy, and my radiator cracked at one point, I had to get a new radiator for it.
I had the original Miata (not turbo) , the one with the pop up headlights for 17 years! Never has any of those problems! Never has a brown radiator, the top stayed perfect, the eyeball vents never sagged. The rain wells did get clogged so I simply cleared them. I took great care of my Miata, including the top. I did put on aftermarket glass rear window because I got tired of the cars it took to keep the plastic clear.
I sold her for practical reasons…a sad day for me. 1990 white Miata. I have a ton of photos but on UA-cam, no way to post them.
Just bought a 99 nb today, thanks for the insight into what to look out for!
Enjoy your car! I have a more in depth video on Miata common problems on my channel :)
@@CashedOutCars any chance you have one about cheap functional upgrades? 90% of my friends are screaming for me to Autocross it but I don't want it any stiffer than it is now 😂
All 5 problems are resolved on mine soo iam quite happy right now😋😁 nice video 👍
Nice😁have fun with it!
Another good helpful video.
Maybe add the window switches failing, and windows needing cleaning/regreasing, and the center console lid latch and/or hinge breaking. (On my NB1 I glued in a flexible hinge and used a magnet from a hard drive so the lid just lifts open.)
(Lots of posts on forums with somewhat complicated ways to remove the vents, but I saw one that showed a really simple way that doesn't risk scratching or damaging anything by just using a small hole in the vent.)
*Sorry, didn't see window switches already mentioned.
Good point with the windows, mine are very slow on this NB and I also just replaced my center console
Thanks!
I've cleaned the windows and tracks and done the Shin Etsu grease and that's worked well, but I still have the nagging feeling I could have cleaned better because it's tough to get in there.
2002 NB LS model w/5 speed owner here. Have owned since 2008. The car resides in New England, and is never driven in the winter/early spring months. It gets stored in a heated garage. You can eat off the underside of this vehicle. Currently @ 130K miles. This has to be the most trouble free care I've ever owned. Sure there are some mechanical issues that arise (failed clutch slave cyl - easy fix; cam position sensor failed - again easy fix) and some that fall into the cosmetic category (deterioration of the soft top, cracked left bolster on driver's seat). Not sure about the other items you've highlighted here. As to the soft top, that's common for ANY drop-top vehicle. The trick is to replace the vinyl OEM unit with a quality canvas-type. Vinyl is no match for the elements, especially the UV rays. Do the rain rail & drains when replacing the top and you'll be set for years. I also take a holistic approach when doing any maintenance. For instance, when it was time to do the timing belt, I had my mechanic replace EVERY wear item within that assembly (water pump, hoses, fan belt etc.) It just makes sense to do these as a preventative measure while these parts are being removed. One thing that was NOT mentioned is the wheels. I have the OEM LS wheels, which are susceptible to damage and being knocked out of round. for their size, they are very light - not sure but they feel like they're made out of some sort of aluminum alloy. I've already had one wheel straightened and know of another one that also needs to be straightened as well. I purchased a salvage wheel so I can swap these out, one at a time while getting the damaged unit repaired. Luv, luv, luv this vehicle and hope to get MANY more miles from her!
Yep, had the radiator blow out. Top back window been gone for awhile. Probably have all the oil leaks mentioned. Vent droop, check. light on the rust though, live in desert/dry area. 1996 Miata.