Do you mean that I need to put a 24mm socket on the crank bolt and wiggle it back and forth a little until the chain gets lined up to let the gear/actuator to slide into place?
I completed same procedure, truck runs but somthings not right not sure how to explain it but it feels slugish and its shifts too soon. at cruising speeds it is up and down
Prob a vacuum leak, or air cleaner not sealed to MAF sensor. It plays a major role in shifting, and controls every aspect of the symptoms you're describing. Unmetered air entering intake can cause a lean condition, while other sensors are trying to correct the MAF miscalculation of the total air volume. May clean it with some spray only. If check engine light is on, a code scan will possibly narrow the parameters causing the problem. Check that all ground eyelets are attached. If possible check for around 19" of vacuum at idle hot, on intake vacuum port for brake booster. Good way to check timing chain alignment/sticking of valve seating and blocked catylist, head gasket sealing between cyls. 17" hg lower, or pulsing needle indicate possible internal problem described. I used an OEM replacement camshaft, and not an aftermarket mod grind. Always use oem O2 sensors for replacements, as aftermarket calibration are sketchy and undesirable results may arise.
Thanks for the reply, btw its a 2011 Vortec 6.2L V-8 VVT (L9H) . No codes are showing but i can check live data i have a Autel AutoLink AL319 OBD2 Scanner still learning how to read it. I have went back over and inspected intake and Air cleaner for loose ducts and clamps . i had an antique mile-o-meter gauge (it was my fathers has a date of 1950) i put in on the brake booster hose and it read 22 inHg steady at idle. The original problem was lifter tick and it was one roller and cam lobe. I replaced the cam with the General Motors 12623065 cam i believe this to be same cam that i had, 3065 was written on the end of the bad cam but i went with Elgin Industries HL2148S lifters and i only replaced the left (driver side bank of lifters) so the right side still has the original lifters. I mention this just in case its a factor. I assumed i wouldnt need to degree the cam since i was keeping same stock cam. I just lined the cam and crank marks up with piston one at TDC. I went back and read what I originally posted and i think i mis-described it a bit what I should have said was with mild acceleration it goes to the higher gears rapidly sounds like 3-4 gear by 25 mph. and at cruising speed i feel a slight surge and drop off sensation not full gear changes. I dont remember this from before i tore it down but usually im blasting the radio and not paying the attention that I am now lol Confession time, I had it all back together or so i thought, and it would not start, sounded like all the valves were stuck open when attempting to crank it. i didnt rotate the engine 180 while i installed the rockers the first time. so i tore it back down and went through every step a second time. it started within a few turns the second time around I guess its possible i bent a valve? or timing is off not sure about that.
Irving ferginspud. If valve was bent or timing issue, vac gauge would fluctuate on a prob cyl. Typical excellent vac reading around sea level is 21". You could try and unplug MAF, and see If substitute settings improve condition, it won't like it initially, but have weeded out bad MAF that way. If worse no change, plug back in, switch off always. And if engine is quiet and smooth at part throttle, and no codes, grounds attached, could be a logic problem with pcm. See probs when battery goes dead sitting, or trying to start with dead bat. ECM can get confused, but usually sets multi, codes. And requires unhook, and touch power cables together for a few mins to clear system errors. Hooking bat up after repair, with ignition on can, (70% prob, imo) damage PCM. As well, hooking power to low bat with ignition on, is same likely outcome. If trans is acting up, and none of these events occurred, I would elect to drive it and watch torque convertor duty cycle on scan tool, around (excellent) 70%, not to exceed 95%clutches on the outs. Also check plugs on trans for corrosion/damage. I may even pull trans pan to check for debris from malfunction. The PCM on this stuff is very (to) sensitive to systems it can monitor. Either it can't see a prob, because it has the prob, or it is a mechanical prob, like filters, water, contaminated fluids. Calling a dealership, asking for service dept. And give VIN, to see if an update to PCM for trans issues are an option.
Auto Dr diy You my friend are an expert mechanic! EXTREMELY rare! 99% are 1/2 ass and " think they know " or " act like they know " what they're doing. You're the type of mechanic I would literally drive 300 miles to take my vehicle to. Do you have a shop? I have a GMC 2500HD with 510,000 miles. 6.0 Vortec. With many ( Original ) OEM parts, as in Waterpump, Alternator, A/C compressor, Front brake pads, Ignition Coils, Fan Clutch etc etc etc. Meticulously mechanically maintained to the extreme, most wouldn't believe. Truck runs fine but I would like to hook up a professional scanner tool and check everything. Injector flow rate, stored codes etc.. I'd also like to know if the timing chain is good for another 500,000 miles.
Did you happen to check mains or rod bearings? Metal went somewhere.... great vids. I appreciate you taking the time to show us your talents. I'm planning a 6.2 build.
No, It would be of no value to do so. A few pinches of glitter loose in the system would be partially filtered, partially impacted in the bearings, (the bearings are soft to absorb impurities by design, it is when they absorb to much and become hard, that they start working on what they are protecting), some micro glitter will be stuck in sludge deposits. I could go on, but since it had good oil pressure, and it was only one minor failure, the costs of redoing the rest of the engine wasn`t justifiable. If the engine had any other significant problems, then a new crate engine from the factory, would have been an option, provided a low milage used engine wasn`t available. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video
What is the torck on the cam sheft bolt
Very thorough thank you.
Thanks for watching
Do you need to pull the motor to change the timing chain?
Anyway you choose to get the oil pan off, for pick-up tube bolt, on back of oil pump. Up to the person doing it
The cam is single bolt?
I’m at the step where I need to get the cam gear seated correctly. What did you mean by “working the crank back and forth” to get it to seat properly?
Do you mean that I need to put a 24mm socket on the crank bolt and wiggle it back and forth a little until the chain gets lined up to let the gear/actuator to slide into place?
I was bumping the crank back and fourth 1/2 tooth to get dowel to settle in gear. Prob.
@@AutoDrdiy ok, thanks. Is that actuator bolt a stretch bolt that needs to be replaced. Thanks! Your video has been a HUGE help!
@@kylelawdawg yes it is, I think it was mentioned in the video. Thanks for watching.
First of all great video 👍🏽 how much does a job like this cost $$$?
Costs are relative to the area you live in. Thanks for watching
$3800
Hi.. can you tell me the cam bolt torque? an angle?
It's already in the comments
The valve actuator what’s its torque at?
55 lb ft + 50 degrees, thanks for watching
Is that center cam bolt fot thr VVT REALLY 55lb plus 50° more sir?
I completed same procedure, truck runs but somthings not right not sure how to explain it but it feels slugish and its shifts too soon. at cruising speeds it is up and down
Prob a vacuum leak, or air cleaner not sealed to MAF sensor. It plays a major role in shifting, and controls every aspect of the symptoms you're describing. Unmetered air entering intake can cause a lean condition, while other sensors are trying to correct the MAF miscalculation of the total air volume. May clean it with some spray only. If check engine light is on, a code scan will possibly narrow the parameters causing the problem. Check that all ground eyelets are attached. If possible check for around 19" of vacuum at idle hot, on intake vacuum port for brake booster. Good way to check timing chain alignment/sticking of valve seating and blocked catylist, head gasket sealing between cyls. 17" hg lower, or pulsing needle indicate possible internal problem described. I used an OEM replacement camshaft, and not an aftermarket mod grind. Always use oem O2 sensors for replacements, as aftermarket calibration are sketchy and undesirable results may arise.
Thanks for the reply, btw its a 2011 Vortec 6.2L V-8 VVT (L9H) . No codes are showing but i can check live data i have a Autel AutoLink AL319 OBD2 Scanner still learning how to read it. I have went back over and inspected intake and Air cleaner for loose ducts and clamps . i had an antique mile-o-meter gauge (it was my fathers has a date of 1950) i put in on the brake booster hose and it read 22 inHg steady at idle.
The original problem was lifter tick and it was one roller and cam lobe. I replaced the cam with the General Motors 12623065 cam i believe this to be same cam that i had, 3065 was written on the end of the bad cam but i went with Elgin Industries HL2148S lifters and i only replaced the left (driver side bank of lifters) so the right side still has the original lifters. I mention this just in case its a factor.
I assumed i wouldnt need to degree the cam since i was keeping same stock cam. I just lined the cam and crank marks up with piston one at TDC. I went back and read what I originally posted and i think i mis-described it a bit what I should have said was with mild acceleration it goes to the higher gears rapidly sounds like 3-4 gear by 25 mph. and at cruising speed i feel a slight surge and drop off sensation not full gear changes. I dont remember this from before i tore it down but usually im blasting the radio and not paying the attention that I am now lol
Confession time, I had it all back together or so i thought, and it would not start, sounded like all the valves were stuck open when attempting to crank it. i didnt rotate the engine 180 while i installed the rockers the first time. so i tore it back down and went through every step a second time. it started within a few turns the second time around I guess its possible i bent a valve? or timing is off not sure about that.
Irving ferginspud. If valve was bent or timing issue, vac gauge would fluctuate on a prob cyl. Typical excellent vac reading around sea level is 21". You could try and unplug MAF, and see If substitute settings improve condition, it won't like it initially, but have weeded out bad MAF that way. If worse no change, plug back in, switch off always. And if engine is quiet and smooth at part throttle, and no codes, grounds attached, could be a logic problem with pcm. See probs when battery goes dead sitting, or trying to start with dead bat. ECM can get confused, but usually sets multi, codes. And requires unhook, and touch power cables together for a few mins to clear system errors. Hooking bat up after repair, with ignition on can, (70% prob, imo) damage PCM. As well, hooking power to low bat with ignition on, is same likely outcome. If trans is acting up, and none of these events occurred, I would elect to drive it and watch torque convertor duty cycle on scan tool, around (excellent) 70%, not to exceed 95%clutches on the outs. Also check plugs on trans for corrosion/damage. I may even pull trans pan to check for debris from malfunction. The PCM on this stuff is very (to) sensitive to systems it can monitor. Either it can't see a prob, because it has the prob, or it is a mechanical prob, like filters, water, contaminated fluids. Calling a dealership, asking for service dept. And give VIN, to see if an update to PCM for trans issues are an option.
Auto Dr diy You my friend are an expert mechanic! EXTREMELY rare! 99% are 1/2 ass and " think they know " or " act like they know " what they're doing. You're the type of mechanic I would literally drive 300 miles to take my vehicle to. Do you have a shop?
I have a GMC 2500HD with 510,000 miles. 6.0 Vortec. With many ( Original ) OEM parts, as in Waterpump, Alternator, A/C compressor, Front brake pads, Ignition Coils, Fan Clutch etc etc etc. Meticulously mechanically maintained to the extreme, most wouldn't believe.
Truck runs fine but I would like to hook up a professional scanner tool and check everything. Injector flow rate, stored codes etc.. I'd also like to know if the timing chain is good for another 500,000 miles.
How much was all the replacement parts including the cam?
Around $1600-1800
@@AutoDrdiy thanks
@@k.lamareyev4418 Thanks for watching
Also, with the edition of machine work on heads and the addition of new fluids, the total cost of parts was closer to $2000.
Did you happen to check mains or rod bearings? Metal went somewhere.... great vids. I appreciate you taking the time to show us your talents. I'm planning a 6.2 build.
No, It would be of no value to do so. A few pinches of glitter loose in the system would be partially filtered, partially impacted in the bearings, (the bearings are soft to absorb impurities by design, it is when they absorb to much and become hard, that they start working on what they are protecting), some micro glitter will be stuck in sludge deposits. I could go on, but since it had good oil pressure, and it was only one minor failure, the costs of redoing the rest of the engine wasn`t justifiable. If the engine had any other significant problems, then a new crate engine from the factory, would have been an option, provided a low milage used engine wasn`t available. Thanks for watching.
Auto Dr diy ... interesting. What is desired oil pressure on a 6.2 at temp at idle in gear? Mine seems low...16-18psi.
F. Yilmaz 20's is about right on one with over 100k and well maintained, 12 psi is like a rock bottom min. Hot, idle, in gear.
Auto Dr diy yup. I’m at 9 so the vvt is freaking out. Swapping soon and can’t wait to tear into old to see where and what went wrong.
Does the plate hold it in place?
MESO HANO the cam? It keeps the cam inline so it isn't working on the chain and freeze plug cap.