Cheers bro, my mk 7 transit is exactly the same, the fluid is black and the clutch pedal don't bounce back, I can't change gear unless I pull the pedal up with my toe, can't see no leaking under the Bell housing either, or in the foot well by the clutch pedal, thanks for this upload its not the first time I've found solutions on your channel Good day bro
You should always remove the neg first and re-connect it last. And if you remove the negative first and it touches the body how is it still earthing as you said in the vid???
@@MeltingRubberZ28 I really don't think you have done it before because if you did you'd find that nothing happens because you're not completing a circuit back to the battery. If the negative is disconnected from the battery then that's it, the circuit is broken.
@ bodgit and leggit garage. I have just had my clutch replaced. Sachs DMF clutch plate csc and pressure plate I think. It has only done 10 miles since and been parked up for 6 weeks without moving. The clutch pedal is half way down and bites within an inch. I pulled the clutch up with my foot and it sat aligned with the other pedals. It goes into gear fine, it does bite early, about an inch, inch and a half but not a grabby bite point. It is nice and smooth. Do I just need to put mileage on the clutch or would you say bleed the system? My fluid is not 100% either but it was fine before hand apart from the DMF rattle which is why I changed the full clutch. Car is a Vectra C 1.9 CDTI 150. Thanks in advance mate. Brake fluid is still full to the brim.
@@bodgitandleggitgarage I will do mate. Thank You. Should I invest in the bleeder tool for better results? Worth the money versus 2 people and time etc? Cheers bud.
@@boxingbreakdowns1016 it will certainly make it easier if you have the right tool mate it's not that expensive and you can use it for brakes and everything you will be using it a lot more than once believe me
@@bodgitandleggitgarage Cheers mate, that is the route I will go down then. After all it is a tool with many uses. I will keep you up to date once I have had a chance to bleed it again using that tool and see how everything goes. Thanks for your time and advice bud. Much appreciated.
Today i tried to bleeding the clutch with same pump, but the clutch pedal is very soft now and does not work. I don't know what i did wrong. Before opening the bleeding screw, do I have to press and hold the clutch?
Hi, I have a 2010 focus zetec. I had the clutch replaced a few months ago but my clutch pedal has started to feel loose. Should I be worried or is it a matter of bleeding it and would one of those vacuum pumps work on it. Thank you in adavance
if it’s a mixture of fluid and air what can i do for it to not make a mess everywhere with fluid? Do u pump is to 2.0 bar then undo the nipple and then wait for it constant strong fluid?
Topman, you've just made the process look less daunting, my clutch pedal fell to the floor on my astra j with fluid leaking on top of the gearbox from the plastic elbow that goes into the slave cylinder so hoping that the o rings and elbow have failed only, fingers crossed 👍👍
robert alcanter hi mate I've done them before and they are a nightmare the transfer box is a nightmare in them when I get another one in I will film it no problem thanks for watching
Is here a separate clutch master cylinder, or does that pipe you 'pointed out' coming from the fluid reservoir go directly to the clutch slave cylinder? Many thanks for all your videos over the years, I have found them to be a great help. Jim
Hi mate, I’m still getting air every couple of days the pedal bitting point getting closer to floor. No leaks, 6 month old CSC off fiesta 1.25 07. I think it’s sucking air in through bleed nipple so I’m going to put new clutch and CSC and reverse bleed it as I read on Ford website. Sorry my question was when reverse bleeding does the pedal have to be on the floor and can I use a syringe or do I need a special pressure tool to reverse bleed it. Thanks mate and sorry for being a pain. PS I did get the spare tyre pressure bleeder like you suggested but it didn’t work. I think what’s happened is when I bled it before I noticed it was hard to turn the plastic bleed nipple when bleeding because it was under pressure and I think when I turned the nipple it turned the seal and it’s sucking air but sealing when under pressure. I’m just one of the unlucky people 😊 love your videos.
Hi again!Nice vid!Once I decide to bleed my clutch cause there was no signs of fresh fluid in clutch bleeder after break fluid replacement.I tend to think that Peugeot center hasn't done anything cause once they spotted me watching them they closed the shutter to work area.So,why the break fluid was kind of dark grey and jelly?It is normal condition of b fluid in clutch line?Regards
Nemo Cap hi mate I will be doing a video on brake bleeding and brake fluid very soon how to test it what it should look like and how to do a full brake flush
Hi again mate I have just had an head gasket replaced on my agila 1.2 2003 and have noticed that there is still a little mayonnaise collecting on the filler cap. No loss off water from the tank No overheating and the car seems running great, is this normal or assuming the mechanic who did it didn't flush the engine. Will it cause yet more problems. What would your expert advice be?
Hi mate yeah that's pretty normal it is very hard to completely get rid of all of it the thing i always tell the customer to do is to replace the oil after 2000 miles then check and you might have to do one more time and that should be it but it's always a good idea just to keep an eye on all the levels just in case hope this helps thanks
I hope you answer your viewers. I have a 2000 dodge dakota sport, manual transmission. replaced clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. I have air in the lines. It is a sealed system which means no bleeder valve. I know some will work out as I drive. do you have any ideas how I can get the air out more efficiently?
Evelyn Mitchell hi mate unfortunately I don't work on that type of vehicles we don't get them over here so I don't know exactly how the system is done there is ways you can bleeding by disconnecting the pipes and allow the fluid to run through and reconnect them again but I don't know how that system works so I do not want to tell you to do something and you caused damage if it was a vehicle we get over here I would be able to tell you a lot more I hope you understand
Hi Leon, I'm changing my brake fluid and may as well bleed the new fluid through the clutch. People are telling me to avoid pressure bleeding as it can blow seals. What's your thoughts on this mate?
Hello. The lid for the brake & clutch reservoirs are they the SAME ? i have a Ford Focus estate/saloon petrol 2005. Also would the bleed nipple be ' where ' on my vehicle ? Thank you.
Great video mate. I recently bought Fiesta and after 2 weeks driving I'm sure clutch gets harder to push down when I'm driving. Clutch seems good when I get in but gets harder when I'm driving. It's only done about 20K about 5 years old. Could it be air in the clutch system. I just don't know. Thanks for any help
Dave James hi mate normally when the clutch goes hard it's the release bearing when you got air in the system the clutch normally just go straight to the floor and does not pop up but these are just normal always weird things can happen in between
Cheers mate. But would you expect release bearing on a 20K mile car. Or is it the way the previous owner drove it. If it is realease bearing, is that basically a clutch replacement full on. Thanks
Dave James hi mate it all depends on how it's driven and it all depends on the part that was put in I've seen them feel brand new I've seen them to do over 150000 miles it's just one of them things that can fail at any stage I'm not saying it is that but from what you're explaining it's certainly sounds that way it could even be pressure plate
Hiya I've been doing the brakes on my Passat b6 I bled the brakes and when I came to bleed the clutch the pedal stays down can you help me out with why it's happened? Do I still need take more air out as it's took quite some time and there's still signs of air, also what's the bottle pump called?
hi mate yes they must be there still in the system it is a lot easier to bleed the clutch with two people unless you have the one man bleed a system which is what I use in this video which makes life a lot easier but you must still have some air in your system if you get someone else to help you it'll be a lot easier
Going to try this i have a astra h and the clutch gose to the floor no pressure in it at all comes back up tho and i cant get in to gear when car is running any ida what it maybe. getting a newclutch kit in case any way
Hi mate it's very difficult to say as I'm not beside the car but if the car doesn't go into gear it sounds like you've got a clutch problem the car should go into gear when the engine is switched off if not you've got a gearbox problem and possibly a clutch problem
Hi mate I’ve replaced a clutch on an Astra sri 08 and after two months the gear wouldn’t go into place unless forcefully pushed and it made a loud screeching noise, I tried again 6 months later and now it’s going in to gear but sometimes with a strain and I have to be delicate with the reverse, makes a large clinking sound. Any help on this would be great been proper stressing about this shit for ages
Video i made:ua-cam.com/video/vcJP3tW3ces/v-deo.html Can a clutch master fail in this way that it does instantly move out the slave but not far enough when the clutch pedal is fully depressed? The slave does move out instantly when I depress the clutchpedal. Also can this problem be cause by to much play on the shift mechanism? The flywheel, frictionplate, slave + bearring and pressureplate are new and I have driven 2000miles with it without any problem until someone launched my car from a standstill, wanted to shift to 2nd during the launch which blocked like seen in the video. The clutch does not slip, engages and disengages fine. When i floor it to like 3500rpm i still can shift but if i floor it to high RPMS it blocks. Im thinking, somehow the gearbox still gets input i guess when flooring and depressing the clutch.
Got same tool from Sealey. Life-saver when u work alone on brakes and clutch.
Use dot five because That's moisture protection.It's a little bit more expensive
Does the brake fluid that's in the bleed kit container refill the system as you pump it through?
Cheers bro, my mk 7 transit is exactly the same, the fluid is black and the clutch pedal don't bounce back, I can't change gear unless I pull the pedal up with my toe, can't see no leaking under the Bell housing either, or in the foot well by the clutch pedal, thanks for this upload its not the first time I've found solutions on your channel
Good day bro
Thanks a lot mate much appreciated I'm glad it helped you
You should always remove the neg first and re-connect it last. And if you remove the negative first and it touches the body how is it still earthing as you said in the vid???
Remove the negative off your car outside and put it to the fender and let me know what happens
@@MeltingRubberZ28 So tell me what YOU think will happen if I do that?
@@SteveCardiff I've done it before on a car so I don't even need to state what I "think" will happen haha.
@@MeltingRubberZ28 I really don't think you have done it before because if you did you'd find that nothing happens because you're not completing a circuit back to the battery. If the negative is disconnected from the battery then that's it, the circuit is broken.
I couldn't believe what I was seeing/hearing. He is doing the exact opposite of what you're supposed to do.
Thank you for this, I shall be doing a similar job on my Sharan very soon, but now with a whole lot more confidence!
@ bodgit and leggit garage. I have just had my clutch replaced. Sachs DMF clutch plate csc and pressure plate I think. It has only done 10 miles since and been parked up for 6 weeks without moving. The clutch pedal is half way down and bites within an inch. I pulled the clutch up with my foot and it sat aligned with the other pedals. It goes into gear fine, it does bite early, about an inch, inch and a half but not a grabby bite point. It is nice and smooth. Do I just need to put mileage on the clutch or would you say bleed the system? My fluid is not 100% either but it was fine before hand apart from the DMF rattle which is why I changed the full clutch. Car is a Vectra C 1.9 CDTI 150. Thanks in advance mate. Brake fluid is still full to the brim.
try bleeding it again
@@bodgitandleggitgarage I will do mate. Thank You. Should I invest in the bleeder tool for better results? Worth the money versus 2 people and time etc? Cheers bud.
@@boxingbreakdowns1016 it will certainly make it easier if you have the right tool mate it's not that expensive and you can use it for brakes and everything you will be using it a lot more than once believe me
@@bodgitandleggitgarage Cheers mate, that is the route I will go down then. After all it is a tool with many uses. I will keep you up to date once I have had a chance to bleed it again using that tool and see how everything goes. Thanks for your time and advice bud. Much appreciated.
that tool you using on here mate is that the one your on about@@bodgitandleggitgarage
Today i tried to bleeding the clutch with same pump, but the clutch pedal is very soft now and does not work. I don't know what i did wrong. Before opening the bleeding screw, do I have to press and hold the clutch?
Hi, I have a 2010 focus zetec. I had the clutch replaced a few months ago but my clutch pedal has started to feel loose. Should I be worried or is it a matter of bleeding it and would one of those vacuum pumps work on it. Thank you in adavance
ya surely have the sealey brake and clutch bleeder that ya hook up to the valve on the tyre do ya..or ya ever try reverse bleeding
if it’s a mixture of fluid and air what can i do for it to not make a mess everywhere with fluid? Do u pump is to 2.0 bar then undo the nipple and then wait for it constant strong fluid?
Thank you.i changed the fluid dot4 for my vauxall 2007,now is going into Gear,
Boom sorted I'm glad it helped you
Topman, you've just made the process look less daunting, my clutch pedal fell to the floor on my astra j with fluid leaking on top of the gearbox from the plastic elbow that goes into the slave cylinder so hoping that the o rings and elbow have failed only, fingers crossed 👍👍
Best of luck mate hope you get it sorted glad my video is helped
Hey pal what was the actual issue with your astra j in the end
Hii ya buddy I did that vivaro engine and it all went well just letting you know and how much is the bleeder tool you used in this video mate
you're videos are great mate. shame you don't have a clutch replacement on a td4 freelander. could you do one ? i know its a long shot
robert alcanter hi mate I've done them before and they are a nightmare the transfer box is a nightmare in them when I get another one in I will film it no problem thanks for watching
thanks again pal
Good mechanic
Is here a separate clutch master cylinder, or does that pipe you 'pointed out' coming from the fluid reservoir go directly to the clutch slave cylinder?
Many thanks for all your videos over the years, I have found them to be a great help. Jim
lascar48 hi mate on this model yes it has a master cylinder and a slave cylinder but it does differ from model to model
Many thanks bro.
Phew!! Thanks, a load of my mind and will take advice.
Any time mate
Hhhh the@@bodgitandleggitgarage
Hi mate, I’m still getting air every couple of days the pedal bitting point getting closer to floor. No leaks, 6 month old CSC off fiesta 1.25 07. I think it’s sucking air in through bleed nipple so I’m going to put new clutch and CSC and reverse bleed it as I read on Ford website. Sorry my question was when reverse bleeding does the pedal have to be on the floor and can I use a syringe or do I need a special pressure tool to reverse bleed it. Thanks mate and sorry for being a pain. PS I did get the spare tyre pressure bleeder like you suggested but it didn’t work. I think what’s happened is when I bled it before I noticed it was hard to turn the plastic bleed nipple when bleeding because it was under pressure and I think when I turned the nipple it turned the seal and it’s sucking air but sealing when under pressure. I’m just one of the unlucky people 😊 love your videos.
Hi again!Nice vid!Once I decide to bleed my clutch cause there was no signs of fresh fluid in clutch bleeder after break fluid replacement.I tend to think that Peugeot center hasn't done anything cause once they spotted me watching them they closed the shutter to work area.So,why the break fluid was kind of dark grey and jelly?It is normal condition of b fluid in clutch line?Regards
Nemo Cap hi mate I will be doing a video on brake bleeding and brake fluid very soon how to test it what it should look like and how to do a full brake flush
Hi again mate
I have just had an head gasket replaced on my agila 1.2 2003 and have noticed that there is still a little mayonnaise collecting on the filler cap. No loss off water from the tank No overheating and the car seems running great, is this normal or assuming the mechanic who did it didn't flush the engine. Will it cause yet more problems. What would your expert advice be?
Hi mate yeah that's pretty normal it is very hard to completely get rid of all of it the thing i always tell the customer to do is to replace the oil after 2000 miles then check and you might have to do one more time and that should be it but it's always a good idea just to keep an eye on all the levels just in case hope this helps thanks
I hope you answer your viewers. I have a 2000 dodge dakota sport, manual transmission. replaced clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. I have air in the lines. It is a sealed system which means no bleeder valve. I know some will work out as I drive. do you have any ideas how I can get the air out more efficiently?
Evelyn Mitchell hi mate unfortunately I don't work on that type of vehicles we don't get them over here so I don't know exactly how the system is done there is ways you can bleeding by disconnecting the pipes and allow the fluid to run through and reconnect them again but I don't know how that system works so I do not want to tell you to do something and you caused damage if it was a vehicle we get over here I would be able to tell you a lot more I hope you understand
Great vids
Paul Wilkinson thanks mate
Hi Leon, I'm changing my brake fluid and may as well bleed the new fluid through the clutch. People are telling me to avoid pressure bleeding as it can blow seals. What's your thoughts on this mate?
it's like everything you don't go go too much pressure get the manufacturers specification and you will be fine
ua-cam.com/video/1d8sKGaHUHU/v-deo.html
It worked for me on a Saab 95 aero just had to spend €74 on a bleed pump and hey presto
boom sorted
Hello. The lid for the brake & clutch reservoirs are they the SAME ? i have a Ford Focus estate/saloon petrol 2005. Also would the bleed nipple be ' where ' on my vehicle ?
Thank you.
yes and yes
Great video mate. I recently bought Fiesta and after 2 weeks driving I'm sure clutch gets harder to push down when I'm driving. Clutch seems good when I get in but gets harder when I'm driving. It's only done about 20K about 5 years old. Could it be air in the clutch system. I just don't know. Thanks for any help
Dave James hi mate normally when the clutch goes hard it's the release bearing when you got air in the system the clutch normally just go straight to the floor and does not pop up but these are just normal always weird things can happen in between
Cheers mate. But would you expect release bearing on a 20K mile car. Or is it the way the previous owner drove it. If it is realease bearing, is that basically a clutch replacement full on. Thanks
Dave James hi mate it all depends on how it's driven and it all depends on the part that was put in I've seen them feel brand new I've seen them to do over 150000 miles it's just one of them things that can fail at any stage I'm not saying it is that but from what you're explaining it's certainly sounds that way it could even be pressure plate
Product to by?
Where’s the bleed screw on a volvo v70 2002?
Hiya I've been doing the brakes on my Passat b6 I bled the brakes and when I came to bleed the clutch the pedal stays down can you help me out with why it's happened? Do I still need take more air out as it's took quite some time and there's still signs of air, also what's the bottle pump called?
hi mate yes they must be there still in the system it is a lot easier to bleed the clutch with two people unless you have the one man bleed a system which is what I use in this video which makes life a lot easier but you must still have some air in your system if you get someone else to help you it'll be a lot easier
Going to try this
i have a astra h and the clutch gose to the floor no pressure in it at all comes back up tho and i cant get in to gear when car is running any ida what it maybe.
getting a newclutch kit in case any way
Hi mate it's very difficult to say as I'm not beside the car but if the car doesn't go into gear it sounds like you've got a clutch problem the car should go into gear when the engine is switched off if not you've got a gearbox problem and possibly a clutch problem
Hi mate I’ve replaced a clutch on an Astra sri 08 and after two months the gear wouldn’t go into place unless forcefully pushed and it made a loud screeching noise, I tried again 6 months later and now it’s going in to gear but sometimes with a strain and I have to be delicate with the reverse, makes a large clinking sound. Any help on this would be great been proper stressing about this shit for ages
Video i made:ua-cam.com/video/vcJP3tW3ces/v-deo.html Can a clutch master fail in this way that it does instantly move out the slave but not far enough when the clutch pedal is fully depressed? The slave does move out instantly when I depress the clutchpedal. Also can this problem be cause by to much play on the shift mechanism? The flywheel, frictionplate, slave + bearring and pressureplate are new and I have driven 2000miles with it without any problem until someone launched my car from a standstill, wanted to shift to 2nd during the launch which blocked like seen in the video. The clutch does not slip, engages and disengages fine. When i floor it to like 3500rpm i still can shift but if i floor it to high RPMS it blocks. Im thinking, somehow the gearbox still gets input i guess when flooring and depressing the clutch.
top man good
thanks you luis
Good video. Your right those dual mass flywheels are rubbish. Worst invention along with dpf's and adblue.
Load of tosh yet again. No pedal and no loss of fluid means rubber piston seals in master cylinder are shot. New master cyl needed.
Bullshit, they'd be fluid pissing out all over the place if the MC seals had gone
Hmmm not showing much
U ramble
@preacher031163 thank you 😘