I did exactly this with a 2nd Gen Dodge 2500 V10. The clutch had been replaced after a major transmission failure. Somehow air had gotten in the system. Granted the truck has 240k miles, but the clutch did function prior to the clutch replacement. I raised the front of the truck and also loosened the master cylinder to raise the hose end up. The oil has lots of metal in it so I know failure is eminent and the whole system must be replaced. This video was spot on and got us out of a jam needing the truck the next day.
My 2nd gen is why I am here. I replaced my slave and when the shop gave it back the pedal is soft and he said it's supposed to be and my slave was bent is why my pedal was nice and high before. One day later my clutch failed. Brought the truck back and replaced the clutch. Got the truck back and pedal is soft. I have at least 5 inches of free pedal at the top and my clutch doesn't full operate until about an inch from the floor. Help. Lol.
Thank you very Very VERY MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO! !!! I couldn't figure out what I was doing wrong! I've been working on bleeding my clutch for about 3 hours today and about 2-3 hours last night. I've looked at my Haynes manual, and watched videos, I even went as far as reading the idiot sheet that came with my new slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder! None of them said anything about having to remove the slave cylinder to bleed it or about the "reverse bleeding" technique by pushing the air out by pushing the slave rod in! 5 minutes watching your video, 5 minutes under my truck and it's done! I have 2 days to finish packing and moving and my clutch was acting up, you saved the day! I owe you a beer my friend!
You are the man! I just replaced my slave cylinder yesterday and I couldn't get any tension back on my pedal while bleeding it on the slave cylinder. Saw this video, went out and did it and 10 minutes later, it's all working great! Thank you for your time to share this !
So, this video is from a bit ago but DUDE you helped me out so much! 1998 dodge dakota with a 2.5l manual, closed clutch system and I couldnt figure out for the LIFE of me how to get it bleed correctly! THANK YOU SO MUCH!
Just wanted to say thanks for this video, I bled mine in about 10 minutes not even using the steering wheel puller. 13mm socket and a 5 inch bolt to press in the piston. I can shift 100x easier now
I tried to bleed my hyd clutch and completely lost pressure. I watched this video took off slave cylinder pumped it up like this shows fixed my problem. Great tip thanks for help
on my application for a 99 Dakota with a manual, and 3.9 liter, i tried this, now i did replace the slave cylinder (was bad). A few bubbles came out, but it didn't bleed the giant air bubble that I had. I tried pushing fast, slow, waiting in between strokes, pushed it a total of about 200 or more times. In the end i put vacuum over the reservoir, and that got the air out quick. (1 hour job took, 7 hours, and about 64 ounces of brake fluid)
A Hernandez I bought a rubber hole stopper from Lowe's that fit the round hole in the master cylinder reservoir. I then drilled a hole in it and adapted my AC vacuum pump to it. You can use a handheld vacuum pump too.
Thank you! I just picked up a 94 with nv4500 behind the 6.5, and clutch has to be to floor to get into gear. Noticed it has a new reservoir. Feels spongy so I'm hoping it's just air!
I've been going nuts trying to bleed my clutch after replacing clutch, slave and master in my 89 GMC S-15. I'm about to go try this, makes so much sense. Thanks for the advice about if it's spongy then it's air. That is my problem but I've been bleeding so much I thought I had it all out.
Sorry for the length but want to give as much detail as possible. My set up: 1999 (early) F250 Super Duty 7.3 with the ZF6 6 Speed in it. Clutch was replaced in March of 2017 with the NU31344 Clutch Kit at a shop that I trust and since I got it back I've had no problems until recent. Recent Problem: Clutch quickly got stiff, then stiffer and stiffer making it hard to get into gear or take out of gear once in, to shift. Work I've done on my own: I disconnected my slave and with a flashlight and long magnet, was able to move where the piston hits the bottom of the fork in the bell housing. There was no spring back once pushed in so I don't know if it should free play like that, but no resistance after pushing it in. I replaced the cheap stuff first, my slave/master clutch cyl's. I mounted the master but left the slave hanging. I got under the truck and slowly compressed the piston on the slave and from underneath I could see air bubbles coming up. Every 10 pushes I would refill reservoir as needed. I never let the piston fully extend while doing this and my clutch was getting stiffer as i went through this process. It was a slow process that I read shouldn't be that slow so on my next few rounds of compressing the slave cylinder piston I did let it all the way out upon release. Clutch pumped tight. Used a mityvac to get the remaining air bubbles out of the lines until no more bubbles appeared, even tiny ones, re-installed it into the bell housing with it compressed just with the plastic straps connecting to the tip. Then i pumped on the clutch to remove remaining air bubbles. I hopped in and i did have to really stomp on the clutch to get it to even start b/c of the clutch/start switch but it did with just a little effort. Then I took it out for test drive 1. Clutched was good but if i stepped on the gas hard, the engine would just roar, like in neutral, but no additional power, driving like my grandmother it drove great. Finally on my way back from the test drive, I felt the plastic straps on the slave snap, which is expected but then clutch went a little spongy and I was having to pump it to build up pressure to shift. I parked it, removed the slave and pumped it again until it was just fluid coming out of the reservoir, then hooked up the mityvac and pumped it to 25 and just a few tiny air bubbles came out. I kept the reservoir full and got it back in the truck and the clutch was stiff again and I had to really push on it to start the truck. Test drive 2, it actually drove good.... for 15 minutes. As i drove, the clutch went from stiff but smooth to harder to push in then almost impossible to push in, getting me to the point where I would have to use way more than normal force to press the clutch in so I just drove it back home. Clutch is always engaged and will not disengage now, I can shift freely when engine is off. Question: Any ideas on what this may be? -- Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
+DEBOSS GARAGE @DEBOSS GARAGE The reason i chose to ask for suggestions here was because in your video when you had the slave piston compressed all the way with the steering wheel puller and the clutch was hard, that's the stiffness I'm feeling with brand new master and slave, bled w/ no air left. Everyone's asking about spongy clutches, mine is the opposite.
#Attila Hun @Attila Hun I never thought to put an arthroscopic cam in the slave cyl mounting hole to see inside the bell housing, that's absolutely genius! Everything inside my bell housing is under warranty. Right after I bought the truck in March of '17, I could smell the clutch but I got such a great deal on the truck I scooped it up and had a shop take the tranny apart and rebuild whatever was needed. It’s back at that shop right now b/c of warranty. Hydraulics are brand new and sealed, the problem(s) are internal in the bellhousing, either throwout bearing or pressure plate or both. I sent this vid to the shop that did my clutch work ua-cam.com/video/6O3E00bgliA/v-deo.html . If this wasn't under warranty I'd be inserting the optics in the bellhousing. Will let you know the outcome. Thanks for the response.
I got a call from the shop today. Their diagnosis was the pressure plate and since it's under warranty, they ordered another NU31344 clutch kit and are replacing it all, again. Well, everything that comes with the kit anyway which doesn't include the flywheel but he said flywheel is in great shape. The kit doesn't come with hydraulics either but I just replaced the full hydraulic system while trying to diagnose this myself. Once I get it back, I'm going to convert the master piston to Heim. Thanks for the advice.
Great idea with the wheel puller! I was wondering how I was going to bleed my master without popping the piston out! Doing an AX15 swap in a 71 Demon using Dakota clutch parts
Great Vid, Another super easy way to bleed that system is to put a vacuum on the master i did it with a cheap air brake bleeder from HF, there is a small hole on the master cap just make sure you take the rubber seal first
You seem like a wise person who I could learn from, but the reason to put the puller on the slave initially is to isolate the problem. If the pedal goes down with the puller on it, you have air in the system or a faulty master/slave. If it stays hard, the problem is you clutch. While the slave is off, this is an easy way to bleed it.
Now that's a mechanic. He showed you how to repair it after checking it he's also showed you how to bleed it after you've installed it unlike bleeding it on the bench and then trying to install it!
I think I had this right, although I might have over tightened the steering wheel puller in the slave cylinder -- not sure. What I am sure of is I didn't seat the push rod correctly inside the bell housing, so when I started up the truck it got pulled out of the slave cylinder. It didn't sound terrible, so I don't think there's too much damage inside, but I'm going to need to get it out of there and I'm going to need a new slave cylinder now too. Oh well. I'm learning!
I just put a splitter into reservoir, one connected to line, the other with bleeder. I learned it works on either end. I put mine near the reservoir, then just pump and open to bleed it, like a brake line, you can even use the hose, and fluid in container to bleed yourself. 😎
Great video deboss! I have a question I have a 2005 mustang GT my clutch pedal feel and engagement is inconsistent. I noticed that the clutch engages like crap but when I pump it a number of times it helps it out a bit. Usually in the first drive of the day and if it's nice a sunny the clutch pedal and engagement feels very good but after a good drive it doesn't feel linear or consistent. I've tried to bleed it a few times by just pumping it and it helps but eventually it goes back to being good here and there. Any thoughts please help??
This should work on my obs powerstroke zf6 swap because I am using the 2001 zf6 slave cylinder and the obs master cylinder so know I don't have any bleeder screw I can't wait until this is done the truck is going to be so much more reliable with a zf6 instead of a E4OD
I’m having a problem with my clutch. When I bought the truck, the previous owner said it had a new clutch but needed to be bled, and that that was the reason that it was hard to press, had zero play, and grabbed very high. I have tried bleeding it twice. The first time I bled it, it was good for about 2 days. Grabbing low and had play. Then about 2 days later. It was back to grabbing high and very stiff from the very top. So I tried bleeding it a second time and it was good for all of 30 minutes then went back to normal. I’m not a very experienced mechanic and have no idea what the problem is, if anyone knows
Does does the truck have to be flat or in a certain position to be able to bleed it properly if I don't have this tool available at the moment. I feel like my dementia having landlord is unable to think right now. But I really would like someone to weigh in on this because I'm starting to feel like there is no other way to go about it.
Hey, I got a 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 with that exact same clutch system. I have just two questions. 1. How many foot pounds of pressure is the slave cylinder suppose to have (push power) when you press the peddle? 2. Is it possible for the pressure plate teeth to not pivot and the clutch break not release even if the master/slave are working properly?
I neeed help! 2018 Cruze diesel 29k clutch went spongy then to the floor , they changed slave and actuator and elbow . Less than 20 miles it occurred again , now they claim it’s my pressure plate and drive disc and want 3000 to fix it . Sounds steep to me
the problem is pushing down the clutch slave pushrod pushes fluid out the top, and retracting it sucks air since it pushes so much fluid out the top....
replaced the slave cylinder and the line from master to slave went to bleed the system and had no pedal of any sort when pumping up to release air through slave bleeder went straight to the floor eventually got pedal you could say but its hard as a rock and cant push to disengage/engage any ideas?? 89 chevy z71 with 305 v8 motor thankyou sir for any insights.
I have a 1st gen and been pumping it for almost a hour it just hisses and no fluid coming out of the line to the slave cylinder but ik it was the slave that was bad cause it sprayed fluid
Ok , I got a 92 dodge Dakota 3.9 motor , with a manual transmission, everything was working fine except main bearings i parked it, to rebuild it, now we pulled the motor ,& put it all back together, but my clutch is like trying to push 10,000 pounds with your feet, it won't push in at all but I in no way was trying to force it , just gave it normal pressure to push in clutch, & it won't budge what's your thoughts on this,
I’ve read the replies, but I’m not seeing exactly how he is bleeding the hydraulic clutch fluid with the steering wheel pulley. I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 5 speed manual transmission. Can someone give me some pointers?
my clutch pedal works fine but after driving all day in the heat the pedal starts to get squeaky and sticky. by sticky I simply mean it isn't a smooth travel. it still travels back and forth and functions its just rough and sticky feeling and makes shifting very unpleasant. if I let the car cool down it goes away. and it only does it in the summer... its not the pedal bolts and nuts I tried that theory already. please help
2000 dodge dakota... I replaced the clutch, throw out bearing & pilot..The pilot was my problem to say the least.. I ordered a 11in. from Rock Auto.. To my surprise my truck can use either 11 or 12 in.. But a 12 in. is what I pulled out.. Wished I would have knew before I ordered, my bad.. Get her put back together. Everything seems fine till.... I hear a sound, when the clutch is pushed IN the sound goes away.. Please help... Idk how my pilot or throw out could be bad (if that's it), since I JUST put knew in.. Thank you sweetie... Really not wanting to pull that s**t again. Lol
efilnikcufecin Wished I could tell you! I have been driving it like it is & seems to be quicker when first started! I probably should pull it all again & check it out before it ends up being something nasty, but I haven't... Hoping it's just from being a smaller clutch & me putting way to much grease when I installed in.. Probably not it, but wishful thinking lol
Does anyone know what the problem is it’s been 6months.... I have the same issue (2009 challenger srt8) have the same noise and it gets louder when I accelerate and goes away when I press on the clutch. It even makes the sound when in neutral. I replaced the clutch, pilot bearing, input bearing, and did a transmission fix (fork and synchro fix) spent 4K and the noise still persists and some gears are sloppy to shift into like 2nd and fourth. Driving me insane car only has 28k miles and it wasn’t even driven hard 😫
I'm with you guys: everything is brand new! I've bled and bled, replaced and replaced, bled some more, replaced more... I don't get it, I'm desperate, can't find the answer.
I wish they were all this easy, but my slave valve is not external. Why didn't Chevy go this route, instead of an internal slave valve, I guess so the average guy would have to take it to the shop. Problem is most in my area are so backed up they can't get to fixing one for weeks or months, and most that work on standards are about 40 miles from me.
Air got in the System in the first place because either a Slave Cylinder Component is Leaking or the Fluid is Old and has Absorbed more than it's Capacity and needs to be purged with New Clutch Fluid.
My 87 s10 I tried to push the rod in the slave and it's not doing anything no fluid is going anywhere out of the reservoir no bubbles nothing I've pumped it by hand at least for an hour straight and nothing still
It would barely disengage so the opposite problem. Its the springs from the pressure plate that put pressure on the clutch and the clutch pedal releases that pressure. I get the feeling you are looking at a clutch job soon
Pollack roe what?.....Dodge share what is called a clutch, brake reservoir. On a Chevy or Ford it is known as a brake master cylinder. When my clutch in my Dodge was going out the brake pedal would move due to the shared fluid in both the brake and clutch pedal.
This is a good question and am happy you asked. If you are sitting down in the passenger side seat you look at your feet. now look to the right. Remove the plastic panel and all that insulation you really don't need that. Once the insulation is removed the clutch is right next to the headlight fluid reservoir. don't get that cheat head light fluid, buy the royal purple HIGH PERFORMANCE fluid you can also use this fluid with your clutch.
Sometimes they have a bleeder valve on them like a brake caliper more than a one man job but wouldn't hurt to check also can bleed using a hand vacuum pump right at the clutch master cylinder too
My bleeder is a two inch long hex shaped bleeder, hex all the way to end.I used vacuum pump bleeder on it and still not working all the way. It's like my clutch won't disengage 100%, it's 96%, so shifting takes know-how. To get into gear from neutral, must put into 4th, bump clutch, then into third/bump clutch then first or second. Can't do neutral to 1
I did exactly this with a 2nd Gen Dodge 2500 V10. The clutch had been replaced after a major transmission failure. Somehow air had gotten in the system. Granted the truck has 240k miles, but the clutch did function prior to the clutch replacement. I raised the front of the truck and also loosened the master cylinder to raise the hose end up. The oil has lots of metal in it so I know failure is eminent and the whole system must be replaced.
This video was spot on and got us out of a jam needing the truck the next day.
My 2nd gen is why I am here. I replaced my slave and when the shop gave it back the pedal is soft and he said it's supposed to be and my slave was bent is why my pedal was nice and high before. One day later my clutch failed. Brought the truck back and replaced the clutch. Got the truck back and pedal is soft. I have at least 5 inches of free pedal at the top and my clutch doesn't full operate until about an inch from the floor. Help. Lol.
Thank you very Very VERY MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO! !!! I couldn't figure out what I was doing wrong! I've been working on bleeding my clutch for about 3 hours today and about 2-3 hours last night. I've looked at my Haynes manual, and watched videos, I even went as far as reading the idiot sheet that came with my new slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder! None of them said anything about having to remove the slave cylinder to bleed it or about the "reverse bleeding" technique by pushing the air out by pushing the slave rod in! 5 minutes watching your video, 5 minutes under my truck and it's done! I have 2 days to finish packing and moving and my clutch was acting up, you saved the day! I owe you a beer my friend!
You are the man! I just replaced my slave cylinder yesterday and I couldn't get any tension back on my pedal while bleeding it on the slave cylinder. Saw this video, went out and did it and 10 minutes later, it's all working great! Thank you for your time to share this !
So, this video is from a bit ago but DUDE you helped me out so much! 1998 dodge dakota with a 2.5l manual, closed clutch system and I couldnt figure out for the LIFE of me how to get it bleed correctly! THANK YOU SO MUCH!
Just when I thought all hope was lost while trying to bleed my clutch, this video saved me. I couldn't get it to work any other way in my '87 gmc.
Just wanted to say thanks for this video, I bled mine in about 10 minutes not even using the steering wheel puller. 13mm socket and a 5 inch bolt to press in the piston. I can shift 100x easier now
How did you avoid letting the slave cylinder push itself all the way out? I am going to try it without the steering wheel puller as well soon. Thanks!
Man dude you need more views, this is some real high quality stuff and honestly more people need to hear about it! Awesome stuff Rich :o
1989 dodge ram clutch bleed
I tried to bleed my hyd clutch and completely lost pressure. I watched this video took off slave cylinder pumped it up like this shows fixed my problem. Great tip thanks for help
on my application for a 99 Dakota with a manual, and 3.9 liter, i tried this, now i did replace the slave cylinder (was bad). A few bubbles came out, but it didn't bleed the giant air bubble that I had. I tried pushing fast, slow, waiting in between strokes, pushed it a total of about 200 or more times. In the end i put vacuum over the reservoir, and that got the air out quick. (1 hour job took, 7 hours, and about 64 ounces of brake fluid)
Adam Flowers
Can I ask how you put vacuum on the resevoir
A Hernandez I bought a rubber hole stopper from Lowe's that fit the round hole in the master cylinder reservoir. I then drilled a hole in it and adapted my AC vacuum pump to it. You can use a handheld vacuum pump too.
Thank you! I just picked up a 94 with nv4500 behind the 6.5, and clutch has to be to floor to get into gear. Noticed it has a new reservoir. Feels spongy so I'm hoping it's just air!
You're supposed to have the clutch fully to the floor whenever you put it in gear. Unless I misunderstood you I'm not sure what the problem is
You just helped out my husband tremendously he says you're a genius! Keep the videos coming man!
I've been going nuts trying to bleed my clutch after replacing clutch, slave and master in my 89 GMC S-15. I'm about to go try this, makes so much sense. Thanks for the advice about if it's spongy then it's air. That is my problem but I've been bleeding so much I thought I had it all out.
I need to try this! I just put a new clutch master cylinder & slave cylinder on in june of this year. It quit working! Thank you! I will try this!
Sorry for the length but want to give as much detail as possible. My set up: 1999 (early) F250 Super Duty 7.3 with the ZF6 6 Speed in it. Clutch was replaced in March of 2017 with the NU31344 Clutch Kit at a shop that I trust and since I got it back I've had no problems until recent. Recent Problem: Clutch quickly got stiff, then stiffer and stiffer making it hard to get into gear or take out of gear once in, to shift. Work I've done on my own: I disconnected my slave and with a flashlight and long magnet, was able to move where the piston hits the bottom of the fork in the bell housing. There was no spring back once pushed in so I don't know if it should free play like that, but no resistance after pushing it in. I replaced the cheap stuff first, my slave/master clutch cyl's. I mounted the master but left the slave hanging. I got under the truck and slowly compressed the piston on the slave and from underneath I could see air bubbles coming up. Every 10 pushes I would refill reservoir as needed. I never let the piston fully extend while doing this and my clutch was getting stiffer as i went through this process. It was a slow process that I read shouldn't be that slow so on my next few rounds of compressing the slave cylinder piston I did let it all the way out upon release. Clutch pumped tight. Used a mityvac to get the remaining air bubbles out of the lines until no more bubbles appeared, even tiny ones, re-installed it into the bell housing with it compressed just with the plastic straps connecting to the tip. Then i pumped on the clutch to remove remaining air bubbles. I hopped in and i did have to really stomp on the clutch to get it to even start b/c of the clutch/start switch but it did with just a little effort. Then I took it out for test drive 1. Clutched was good but if i stepped on the gas hard, the engine would just roar, like in neutral, but no additional power, driving like my grandmother it drove great. Finally on my way back from the test drive, I felt the plastic straps on the slave snap, which is expected but then clutch went a little spongy and I was having to pump it to build up pressure to shift. I parked it, removed the slave and pumped it again until it was just fluid coming out of the reservoir, then hooked up the mityvac and pumped it to 25 and just a few tiny air bubbles came out. I kept the reservoir full and got it back in the truck and the clutch was stiff again and I had to really push on it to start the truck. Test drive 2, it actually drove good.... for 15 minutes. As i drove, the clutch went from stiff but smooth to harder to push in then almost impossible to push in, getting me to the point where I would have to use way more than normal force to press the clutch in so I just drove it back home. Clutch is always engaged and will not disengage now, I can shift freely when engine is off. Question: Any ideas on what this may be? -- Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
+DEBOSS GARAGE @DEBOSS GARAGE The reason i chose to ask for suggestions here was because in your video when you had the slave piston compressed all the way with the steering wheel puller and the clutch was hard, that's the stiffness I'm feeling with brand new master and slave, bled w/ no air left. Everyone's asking about spongy clutches, mine is the opposite.
#Attila Hun
@Attila Hun
I never thought to put an arthroscopic cam in the slave cyl mounting hole to see inside the bell housing, that's absolutely genius! Everything inside my bell housing is under warranty. Right after I bought the truck in March of '17, I could smell the clutch but I got such a great deal on the truck I scooped it up and had a shop take the tranny apart and rebuild whatever was needed. It’s back at that shop right now b/c of warranty. Hydraulics are brand new and sealed, the problem(s) are internal in the bellhousing, either throwout bearing or pressure plate or both. I sent this vid to the shop that did my clutch work ua-cam.com/video/6O3E00bgliA/v-deo.html . If this wasn't under warranty I'd be inserting the optics in the bellhousing. Will let you know the outcome. Thanks for the response.
I got a call from the shop today. Their diagnosis was the pressure plate and since it's under warranty, they ordered another NU31344 clutch kit and are replacing it all, again. Well, everything that comes with the kit anyway which doesn't include the flywheel but he said flywheel is in great shape. The kit doesn't come with hydraulics either but I just replaced the full hydraulic system while trying to diagnose this myself. Once I get it back, I'm going to convert the master piston to Heim. Thanks for the advice.
I have been meaning to update this. It was misdiagnosed as a pressure plate but the problem was a broken clutch fork.
Go figure I have this problem with my truck and you have a video for it! Thanks for the tip Rich!
Great idea with the wheel puller! I was wondering how I was going to bleed my master without popping the piston out! Doing an AX15 swap in a 71 Demon using Dakota clutch parts
Great Vid, Another super easy way to bleed that system is to put a vacuum on the master
i did it with a cheap air brake bleeder from HF, there is a small hole on the master cap just make sure you take the rubber seal first
You seem like a wise person who I could learn from, but the reason to put the puller on the slave initially is to isolate the problem. If the pedal goes down with the puller on it, you have air in the system or a faulty master/slave. If it stays hard, the problem is you clutch. While the slave is off, this is an easy way to bleed it.
How do you determine if it's your master or slave?
Great video, I had to bleed an 86 k20 clutch system and that’s how I did it. The bleeder on the slave was useless.
Badass vid man. Short and straight to the point.
Now that's a mechanic. He showed you how to repair it after checking it he's also showed you how to bleed it after you've installed it unlike bleeding it on the bench and then trying to install it!
I think I had this right, although I might have over tightened the steering wheel puller in the slave cylinder -- not sure. What I am sure of is I didn't seat the push rod correctly inside the bell housing, so when I started up the truck it got pulled out of the slave cylinder. It didn't sound terrible, so I don't think there's too much damage inside, but I'm going to need to get it out of there and I'm going to need a new slave cylinder now too. Oh well. I'm learning!
Spongy clutch, gonna try my next days off! Thanks!!
Nice video. Subscribed. Unfortunately, my slave has a hard-line going to it so I can't do your brilliant pump the slave bleeding method. cheers
You actually save me 160+plus tax and days of waiting for part awesome video 10 thumbs up
Oldie but a goodie!
I just put a splitter into reservoir, one connected to line, the other with bleeder. I learned it works on either end. I put mine near the reservoir, then just pump and open to bleed it, like a brake line, you can even use the hose, and fluid in container to bleed yourself. 😎
Great video deboss! I have a question I have a 2005 mustang GT my clutch pedal feel and engagement is inconsistent. I noticed that the clutch engages like crap but when I pump it a number of times it helps it out a bit. Usually in the first drive of the day and if it's nice a sunny the clutch pedal and engagement feels very good but after a good drive it doesn't feel linear or consistent. I've tried to bleed it a few times by just pumping it and it helps but eventually it goes back to being good here and there. Any thoughts please help??
Thank you this worked perfect for my chevy
Another awesome video Rich. Now I just need a truck with a clutch to apply this to...
Could be a lifesaver with this video 🖤
Sweet!! Just did this on my cummins/zf6 swapped 56 Chevy bel air😂
This should work on my obs powerstroke zf6 swap because I am using the 2001 zf6 slave cylinder and the obs master cylinder so know I don't have any bleeder screw I can't wait until this is done the truck is going to be so much more reliable with a zf6 instead of a E4OD
I’m having a problem with my clutch. When I bought the truck, the previous owner said it had a new clutch but needed to be bled, and that that was the reason that it was hard to press, had zero play, and grabbed very high. I have tried bleeding it twice. The first time I bled it, it was good for about 2 days. Grabbing low and had play. Then about 2 days later. It was back to grabbing high and very stiff from the very top. So I tried bleeding it a second time and it was good for all of 30 minutes then went back to normal. I’m not a very experienced mechanic and have no idea what the problem is, if anyone knows
Does does the truck have to be flat or in a certain position to be able to bleed it properly if I don't have this tool available at the moment. I feel like my dementia having landlord is unable to think right now. But I really would like someone to weigh in on this because I'm starting to feel like there is no other way to go about it.
This helps heaps my old cummins clutch won't disengage and finally found out how to doni
You look like the guy who is always bugging Peter Parker about paying his rent 😂
Hey, I got a 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 with that exact same clutch system. I have just two questions.
1. How many foot pounds of pressure is the slave cylinder suppose to have (push power) when you press the peddle?
2. Is it possible for the pressure plate teeth to not pivot and the clutch break not release even if the master/slave are working properly?
Your video helped a lot
Thank you
Good information very useful
Do I really need a steering wheel puller or will something else do the trick.
great job. I've never seen that done like that before. I work on cars.. I'm going to try that. Thanks
Best vids on UA-cam Rich. Cheers
how do you drain the fluid out and put new fluid in?
Am I missing something here what's the difference in doing it as shown vs just using the pedal to bleed? 🤔
When I saw the thumbnail I thought it was a cup of coffee
on one Chevy I had to pull the piston out further than release fork allowed to solve sponge low pedal.
I neeed help! 2018 Cruze diesel
29k clutch went spongy then to the floor , they changed slave and actuator and elbow . Less than 20 miles it occurred again , now they claim it’s my pressure plate and drive disc and want 3000 to fix it . Sounds steep to me
Thank you! This video saved the day!
the problem is pushing down the clutch slave pushrod pushes fluid out the top, and retracting it sucks air since it pushes so much fluid out the top....
Great tip thanks!
replaced the slave cylinder and the line from master to slave went to bleed the system and had no pedal of any sort when pumping up to release air through slave bleeder went straight to the floor eventually got pedal you could say but its hard as a rock and cant push to disengage/engage any ideas?? 89 chevy z71 with 305 v8 motor thankyou sir for any insights.
Same problem did u figure it out
I have a 1st gen and been pumping it for almost a hour it just hisses and no fluid coming out of the line to the slave cylinder but ik it was the slave that was bad cause it sprayed fluid
Ok , I got a 92 dodge Dakota 3.9 motor , with a manual transmission, everything was working fine except main bearings i parked it, to rebuild it, now we pulled the motor ,& put it all back together, but my clutch is like trying to push 10,000 pounds with your feet, it won't push in at all but I in no way was trying to force it , just gave it normal pressure to push in clutch, & it won't budge what's your thoughts on this,
Im sure you figured this out by now but sounds like the slave rod wasn't lined up when you put the slave back on
I have a 99 Audi A4 b5. Think this technique would still work?
This saved my ass, thanks!!
00:46 when he says bottom that push rod out is he meaning to screw it in or press it in?
love it!!!! thank you
I’ve read the replies, but I’m not seeing exactly how he is bleeding the hydraulic clutch fluid with the steering wheel pulley. I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 5 speed manual transmission. Can someone give me some pointers?
This doesnt work on all that many fords, most of the smaller stuff has a slave in the trans itself
my clutch pedal works fine but after driving all day in the heat the pedal starts to get squeaky and sticky. by sticky I simply mean it isn't a smooth travel. it still travels back and forth and functions its just rough and sticky feeling and makes shifting very unpleasant. if I let the car cool down it goes away. and it only does it in the summer... its not the pedal bolts and nuts I tried that theory already. please help
2000 dodge dakota... I replaced the clutch, throw out bearing & pilot..The pilot was my problem to say the least.. I ordered a 11in. from Rock Auto.. To my surprise my truck can use either 11 or 12 in.. But a 12 in. is what I pulled out.. Wished I would have knew before I ordered, my bad.. Get her put back together. Everything seems fine till.... I hear a sound, when the clutch is pushed IN the sound goes away.. Please help... Idk how my pilot or throw out could be bad (if that's it), since I JUST put knew in.. Thank you sweetie... Really not wanting to pull that s**t again. Lol
So, what did it turn out to be? My clutch has been making a tapping sound but stops when the clutch pedal is pressed. Thanks KGG.
efilnikcufecin Wished I could tell you! I have been driving it like it is & seems to be quicker when first started! I probably should pull it all again & check it out before it ends up being something nasty, but I haven't... Hoping it's just from being a smaller clutch & me putting way to much grease when I installed in.. Probably not it, but wishful thinking lol
Does anyone know what the problem is it’s been 6months.... I have the same issue (2009 challenger srt8) have the same noise and it gets louder when I accelerate and goes away when I press on the clutch. It even makes the sound when in neutral. I replaced the clutch, pilot bearing, input bearing, and did a transmission fix (fork and synchro fix) spent 4K and the noise still persists and some gears are sloppy to shift into like 2nd and fourth. Driving me insane car only has 28k miles and it wasn’t even driven hard 😫
Wondering if it’s the master and slave cylinder
I'm with you guys: everything is brand new! I've bled and bled, replaced and replaced, bled some more, replaced more... I don't get it, I'm desperate, can't find the answer.
I wish they were all this easy, but my slave valve is not external. Why didn't Chevy go this route, instead of an internal slave valve, I guess so the average guy would have to take it to the shop. Problem is most in my area are so backed up they can't get to fixing one for weeks or months, and most that work on standards are about 40 miles from me.
Awesome vids
will the air work it's self out as you drive?
Very helpfull video men thanks keep posting good vds..
What kind of fluid do you use in a clutch just break fluid?
Air got in the System in the first place because either a Slave Cylinder Component is Leaking or the Fluid is Old and has Absorbed more than it's Capacity and needs to be purged with New Clutch Fluid.
Great explanation
So if I just want to change the dirty fluid what do I do
Thank You.
What happens when you bleed the slave cylinder because it was soft and then the clutch pedal won't move
I done this step my step as shown in the vid all it does is spit the fluid out 96 f350
Where can I buy that tool
My 87 s10 I tried to push the rod in the slave and it's not doing anything no fluid is going anywhere out of the reservoir no bubbles nothing I've pumped it by hand at least for an hour straight and nothing still
Was your clutch slipping when there was air in it?
It would barely disengage so the opposite problem. Its the springs from the pressure plate that put pressure on the clutch and the clutch pedal releases that pressure. I get the feeling you are looking at a clutch job soon
Thank you man !!!
This won't work on any transmission with a slave cylinder in the bell housing
94 S10 new slave cylinder and new master cylinder still will not go into gear
why does the brake pedal move when you press the clutch lol?
The brake and clutch fluid is shared.
@@saltybaallzz huh?..... more likely the pedals are on the same shaft...two different hydraulic systems I believe…..
Pollack roe what?.....Dodge share what is called a clutch, brake reservoir. On a Chevy or Ford it is known as a brake master cylinder. When my clutch in my Dodge was going out the brake pedal would move due to the shared fluid in both the brake and clutch pedal.
@@saltybaallzz ,what year and model is your truck?
one thing
were is the clutch at in a Chevy?
This is a good question and am happy you asked. If you are sitting down in the passenger side seat you look at your feet. now look to the right. Remove the plastic panel and all that insulation you really don't need that. Once the insulation is removed the clutch is right next to the headlight fluid reservoir. don't get that cheat head light fluid, buy the royal purple HIGH PERFORMANCE fluid you can also use this fluid with your clutch.
Between the engine and transmission!
This is great until you have a slave that goes inside the bellhousing and over the spline thanks Ford.
Must be nice to have an external slave...My 97 Chevy one ton is internal....and not working.
Sometimes they have a bleeder valve on them like a brake caliper more than a one man job but wouldn't hurt to check also can bleed using a hand vacuum pump right at the clutch master cylinder too
My bleeder is a two inch long hex shaped bleeder, hex all the way to end.I used vacuum pump bleeder on it and still not working all the way. It's like my clutch won't disengage 100%, it's 96%, so shifting takes know-how. To get into gear from neutral, must put into 4th, bump clutch, then into third/bump clutch then first or second. Can't do neutral to 1
Yep gm started that bullshit with the internal slaves in 95
Auto zone made buy the a whole new part
Anyone think this dude sounds like Quint from jaws?
nice facial hair!
R trees
🤟🏾😁🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Hydraulic clutch is about the dumbest thing car manufacturers have come up with.