Old school trick to remove pilot bushing or sealed bearing- pump grease into the cavity behind the bushing then find a punch that fits close in the center of the bearing. A good rap with a hammer will pop the bearing out by the hydraulic pressure of the grease. It works. Really like the school type videos. Big fan of your channel.
I liked the video I was interested about the oil leak and the seals I lot of stupid people would have missed the oil leak or ignored it and just fitted the new clutch which would have been a rubbish job nice job top man 👍🤔💯
This is the best video I have ever seen on how to installed a manual transmission.. I didnt know the clutch fingers had to be adjust on the pressure plate. i did not do that and now my truck will not engage the engine .will not go over 20 mph. (ls swap to sm465 k5 blazer on 40 swampers).. motivated to tear it apart and make the adjustment..,,great video .Trade school level for sure...
GREAT job explaining the process. I am teaching myself to do all the work on my car. I have read sooo much and practically read the entire Book on my car. However because I’m not a machanic, diagnosing things is tricky… this was a perfect video explaining exactly what my car is doing and how to fix it. Along with some extra tips. So thanks I will definitely be watching this as I tear into my car this week. With me luck!!
VERY FASCINATING AND INFORMATIVE...HAVE MAZDA2 2010 1.3....CLUTCH SLIPS 2/ 3 GEAR. IF U GIVE EXTRA GAS...I KEEP GAS PEDAL LIGHT. ..STILL DRIVEABLE..SEEMS OK WHEN ENGINE IS COLD...DONE 106 000 MILES...COST SEEMS TO BE OVER £400. ..I ENJOYED WATCHING THE VIDEO...from Glasgow..
Great video and format Brian. I feel these are helpful even for the customer so that they can see what is being replaced as well as why. In the IT industry we refer to it as setting expectations. Keep up the good work.
Hi Brian. I have done a lot of work on cars. It is so nice to have videos. I really like your format and the way you explain everything about how to do things and why. On my clutch job the clutch fork pivot busted out of the bell housing, or I had the wrong fork.
great video 👍 quick question! i have a problem with my clutch, its makes a tinny mild rattle when car is idle with engine on, but the sound dissapears when clutch pedal is pressed, i was thinking it to be the throwout bearing?... what do you think??
Thank you, it was a brilliant tuition going through the workings of a clutch step by step. It explains the noise I'm getting from the release bearing of my LDV sherpa camper. Cheers Mike 😎👍
Welcome- If you can get it to Utah I'd be happy too. I've had plenty of practice on those concentric slave cylinder unions and bleeding the air that gets trapped above the frame rail.
Easy pilot bushing or bearing removal...fill the cavity with grease, place a spline or dowel just into the center hole, hit it with a hammer once or twice. Hydraulic pressure pushes the bearing/bushing out. Great vid, as always :-) Ben the knife sharpener guy.
Thanks Brian I learned a lot from this video. Been watching a few years and your methodical approach makes it a pleasure for an amateur like to learn from. Thanks again, really enjoy the BFATE.
Interesting find. On my old Hyundai accent i would lose clutch function at high revs.it wouldn't go into gear unless i idled the engine (sucked big time getting on the freeway)the pressure plate fingers were damaged. I have 160k miles on the replacement clutch and its still going strong at 290k.
My wife always drives in the city and she uses her clutch a lot. In spite of that when I changed her clutch the mechanism was still good and only the clutch was worn out. Her clutch has a hydraulic activation on a Mercedes w203.
Wow, what an great lesson on clutches and seal installation. I don't know if you ever did a video on crankshaft pulleys/harmonic balances. I recently learned that they're not just for driving alternators, power steering and what not, but also act an a balancing part for the crankshaft itself.
I like your video on clutches. Good stuff!! Please consider doing one on the practice of "double clutching" in either down shifting or upshifting" . I tend to double clutch whenever shifting my 5 speed Toyota Tundra. Am I shortening the lift of the clutch by doing this? Thanks
Yes basically... also revmatching down shifting should be avoided... 07 Dakota original clutch still and I'm just hitting 191k miles this is with alot of city driving county driving... I tend to skip gears in the open zone but in city I really cant... also pick a good low gear for slow driving dont lug the motor it builds oil pressure isnt good to be in a higher gear and try to accelerate... no point in double clutching unless you're driving an 18wheelher that's beat to hell and kinda have to.
2005 Honda Accord. Lot of noise from clutch which disappears when clutch is depressed. I assume throw out bearing, which was dry, but spinning freely. Replaced engine seal, flywheel, clutch assembly and thrown out bearing. 157K miles and clutch disc was almost worn to the rivets.
Hi Brian I've got a Isuzu kB 350 LX and have a problem with clutch, it doesn't take gears when engine is running. I've managed to take out the pressure plate, clutch and flywheel for recon and skimming. I want to assemble it back. Called about 3 mechanics and they failed. Now I've decided to DIY following your video. It's a pulling clutch towards the transmission when engaged
I had the clutch pedal assembly go out on me and disintegrate, luckily just as I got to pull into the door of my mechanic's shop. Took 3 days to repair, because there were no spare parts available, so the collection of pieces were taken to a welder and they put the kit back together with weld and extra metal plate. when changing them very important to get that pilot bearing lubricated inside the housing, with just a little very tacky grease, and also lubricate the splines with some molyslip compound, straight out of the tube, bit on a clean rag and wipe the whole spline section to leave a thin film, and then use the rag to wipe the tips of the fingers as well, along with the pivot on the release bearing. Finish with a bit more on the pivot point, mixed with the super tacky grease to keep it smooth. As well on the outside of the pivot itself on the cable or slave cylinder bearing point. You just want a thin film to lubricate better than dry metal on dry metal, but not so much that it will get flung out into the clutch friction lining and ruin the clutch. When assembling clean pressure plate surface and flywheel surface with a clean cloth and brake cleaner, and any spots of oil on the friction surfaces ( try not to do this, it reduces grip considerably) hit liberally with brake cleaner and let dry before assembly. Only clutches that are designed to work in oil work in oil, the others all slip badly. Conversely wet clutches work really badly dry, they tend to burn up as they overheat. Wet clutches use only the OEM lubricant, not just whatever you have, it will end badly. Yes I have degreased clutch packs by going out back, making a fire in a steel drum, soaking the friction liner in petrol and burning the oil out, but that was near unobtanium to get, discontinued by the German OEM (Lenze) around 1975. eventually found something that was usable there as friction material, just had to be cut to diameter and have a brass sleeve for the inner diameter.
06:30 -- "Not that that's possible unless you had a hole in your foot!" Haha!! Great video, always fun to watch and I learn so much from your explanations.
I always love your videos. Have you thought about re-doing some of your older videos. I'm sure even you have learned some new tricks since 2008. Just an idea to keep the content coming. Keep up the good work!
Roll head pry bars are the best for seals. Sometimes it's easiest to use a roll head against a regular pry bar when the seal or opening is that much bigger than the roll head pry bar.
So I just took the transmission out of my truck and it’s my first time working on a manual. The throughout bearing is definitely bad and has a lot of we are on it from the fork, like gouging into the throw out bearing itself. What I was experiencing is if I needed to go into reverse the whole drive line would violently, and I mean extremely violently Bang into gear. The transmission transfer case and driveshaft would all violently jolt. Same thing in the first gear. It was better to start the vehicle in one of the two if you needed to start it in backup or go into forward. I really hope replacing the pivot ball, the fork and the throw out bearing is what is going to solve my problem because I simply don’t have the money for a new transmission also, it would smell like burning breaks altogether when I took it all apart I expected something as severe as what is on this video, but everything was in good condition except the forte, and the throughout bearing itself the pressure plate looked brand new all this stuff is about a year old the mechanic that put everything in for me, put it in wrong. He had it to where the fork was riding on the bearing itself and within a year it destroyed it
Good video. I learned a lot. Going to do my 01 Toyota Celina gts as soon as it comes in the mail. What were you riding g at the end. It looked as if you were flying. 8i just hit a mid life crisis and for whatever reason I’ve become obsessed with wanting to fly. I looked up hang gliding which looks like a huge learning curve. I want T O fly with the least time and effort possible.
Always informative and useful Brian. Thanks much! I recently bought a 2001 911 Carrera. I had the IMS bearing replaced and the mechanic showed me that the clutch was at about 50% left. I opted to saving $1000 and keeping the clutch. The car had 21k miles. I'm fairly easy on clutches. Did I make the right decision to keep the existing clutch?
Love this video man. Seriously film more. I have a question though , I have 2005 Chevy Colorado 2.8 4 cylinder with 5 speed manual transmission. It won't go into any gear while it is running. But when the engine is off it will g o in every gear and you don't even have to push the clutch in. I figure uts most defiantly a clutch issue so I have already ordered the parts. I seen this video after I ordered them but am I correct in it being the clutch or is the transmission in jeopardy of being bad as well?
Great video! Excellent description of the entire clutch assembly. I've done a few over the years but now only have automatic transmissions... Thanks for sharing. How would I show you a video of an issue I'm having?
even though I am a civil engineer but really I enjoyed your demonstration about the clutch because I have Nissan patrol 83 models running well. how about 4 wheel gearbox and its connection to the clutch? Thanks. Greetings from Riyadh.
Bad ass video man really helped me out now I'll never have a problem puting in clutches ps yeezyee James ....you did awesome explaining every detail for clutch diagnosis 🙂
If you skimmed the flywheel, would you reuse the flywheel bolts to mount or new bolts? If using old bolts, could the old bolts with blue threadlocker be used safely?
I often use Permatex right stuff as a sealant and lube-it-in. Some more soft and slippery silicones I've seen cause seals to pop out. The O.D. of the seal needs good purchase to stay in.
So i did a clutch just finished it as of Sun 25 June 2023 it was good for the first i would say 30/60 minutes took off great now its seeming to be sluggish and i feel vibration in the pedal ( when i oush the clutch pedal down it goes away ) and also theres a slight noise ( rotational ) at the clutch/plate area would you by chance have any suggestions ( vehicle is a 94 isuzu rodeo )
Tq converter, a fluid coupling. Locking is a hydraulically or electronically actuated clutch within the converter, to stop parasitic loss during cruising speed. ^^^^^^^^ Incase anyone was curious.
Old school trick to remove pilot bushing or sealed bearing- pump grease into the cavity behind the bushing then find a punch that fits close in the center of the bearing. A good rap with a hammer will pop the bearing out by the hydraulic pressure of the grease. It works. Really like the school type videos. Big fan of your channel.
I use Irish spring bar soap, easier clean up AND it smells great😂
I liked the video I was interested about the oil leak and the seals I lot of stupid people would have missed the oil leak or ignored it and just fitted the new clutch which would have been a rubbish job nice job top man 👍🤔💯
This is the best video I have ever seen on how to installed a manual transmission.. I didnt know the clutch fingers had to be adjust on the pressure plate. i did not do that and now my truck will not engage the engine .will not go over 20 mph. (ls swap to sm465 k5 blazer on 40 swampers).. motivated to tear it apart and make the adjustment..,,great video .Trade school level for sure...
Very good and clearly explained information for those of us that didn’t quite understand how the clutch works. Thank you
when I sold my 71 blazer the original clutch had 173k miles on it and was still working great. proper driving makes a big difference to clutch life.
Good Job the way you explained how a clutch functions, even a rookie would understand.
GREAT job explaining the process. I am teaching myself to do all the work on my car. I have read sooo much and practically read the entire Book on my car. However because I’m not a machanic, diagnosing things is tricky… this was a perfect video explaining exactly what my car is doing and how to fix it. Along with some extra tips. So thanks I will definitely be watching this as I tear into my car this week. With me luck!!
Best video I’ve seen on clutch install, helped me diagnose where I went wrong fitting my last one
The way you explained everything and allowed us to try figure out what was wrong made perfect sense. Great job man love your videos.
Finaly a video that has good explanation in everyday language, thanks, great work.
Awesome job Brian! I love watching your videos. One of my favorite channels. We have learned so much from these.
thanks very much
Didn't learn anything about clutches while getting my degree, you did a great job of filling that gap. Great work man.
VERY FASCINATING AND INFORMATIVE...HAVE MAZDA2 2010 1.3....CLUTCH SLIPS 2/ 3 GEAR. IF U GIVE EXTRA GAS...I KEEP GAS PEDAL LIGHT. ..STILL DRIVEABLE..SEEMS OK WHEN ENGINE IS COLD...DONE 106 000 MILES...COST SEEMS TO BE OVER £400. ..I ENJOYED WATCHING THE VIDEO...from Glasgow..
The best video I have ever seen...it explains all the issues about clutch problems with real examples...thank you very much...👍👍
THIS IS A BRILLIANT VIDEO - great camera work, great explanations. It was superb how you identified problems and showed their physical causes.
Trafic goes in all 6 gears with no engine running but can't get any gears when it is running ???why
234,000 miles wpw. Excellent video. Good to know. Much appreciated.
Great video and format Brian. I feel these are helpful even for the customer so that they can see what is being replaced as well as why. In the IT industry we refer to it as setting expectations.
Keep up the good work.
Hi Brian. I have done a lot of work on cars. It is so nice to have videos. I really like your format and the way you explain everything about how to do things and why. On my clutch job the clutch fork pivot busted out of the bell housing, or I had the wrong fork.
Good job, Brian. I have a 91 Celica. I've had to replace the twice. Mostly because some people don't know how to shift. It can be a simple job.
Love these kind of videos...excellent insight to us wanna be mechanics!
Great job and thanks for sharing 👍!
great video 👍 quick question! i have a problem with my clutch, its makes a tinny mild rattle when car is idle with engine on, but the sound dissapears when clutch pedal is pressed, i was thinking it to be the throwout bearing?... what do you think??
Thank you, it was a brilliant tuition going through the workings of a clutch step by step. It explains the noise I'm getting from the release bearing of my LDV sherpa camper.
Cheers Mike 😎👍
Got another ranger.1997.Needs a clutch if you want the job.Viewing in Westcoast Canada! CHEERS from HERE!
Welcome- If you can get it to Utah I'd be happy too. I've had plenty of practice on those concentric slave cylinder unions and bleeding the air that gets trapped above the frame rail.
Thank you. Great lesson. Helps to understand what's happening and moving.
Easy pilot bushing or bearing removal...fill the cavity with grease, place a spline or dowel just into the center hole, hit it with a hammer once or twice. Hydraulic pressure pushes the bearing/bushing out. Great vid, as always :-) Ben the knife sharpener guy.
Outstanding video!! Thank you for your expertise, and a MAJOR shoutout for also taking the time to film it!
Thank you very much!
Amazing video type! More like this would be appreciated. Keep up the great work Brian.
Wow, 200,000 miles on a clutch. I got 100,000 and thought I was doing good. Thanks for showing us how those parts actually move. Great video.
Thanks Brian I learned a lot from this video. Been watching a few years and your methodical approach makes it a pleasure for an amateur like to learn from. Thanks again, really enjoy the BFATE.
i found this very informative. probably most thorough clutch related video I've seen
Brilliant. Straight to the point. Great "case study". Lots of Tech info. And the Pink trainers actually suit ya. :)
Interesting find. On my old Hyundai accent i would lose clutch function at high revs.it wouldn't go into gear unless i idled the engine (sucked big time getting on the freeway)the pressure plate fingers were damaged. I have 160k miles on the replacement clutch and its still going strong at 290k.
This was great. Helped me a lot today. Installed a new clutch on my NP435.
My wife always drives in the city and she uses her clutch a lot. In spite of that when I changed her clutch the mechanism was still good and only the clutch was worn out. Her clutch has a hydraulic activation on a Mercedes w203.
Wow, what an great lesson on clutches and seal installation. I don't know if you ever did a video on crankshaft pulleys/harmonic balances. I recently learned that they're not just for driving alternators, power steering and what not, but also act an a balancing part for the crankshaft itself.
Good format Brian.
Thanks!
Best sum up of a clutch I've heard.
Nice explanation of how everything works.
Thanks David!
Awesome video! Great for learning and understanding the whole operations of the clutch
Awesome !!! It's not that hard I guess I'll can do that too , thank you for inspiring me and for tips
Love these kind of videos...excellent insight to us wanna be mechanics!. Love these kind of videos...excellent insight to us wanna be mechanics!.
One of the best how too videos I've seen on UA-cam... very Informative 👌
Glad you enjoyed it!
Brilliant video, really enjoyed the style of it and got a more in depth understanding. Subscribed
good refresher not to comen fork failure but 234 on clutch impressive thanks congrats on 301k!!
Thanks Will!
Bro you are the man. Thank you for your video. By far you and scotty Gilmore are the best. Truly appreciate you and your time to teach me. Thank you
I like your video on clutches. Good stuff!! Please consider doing one on the practice of "double clutching" in either down shifting or upshifting" . I tend to double clutch whenever shifting my 5 speed Toyota Tundra. Am I shortening the lift of the clutch by doing this? Thanks
Yes basically... also revmatching down shifting should be avoided... 07 Dakota original clutch still and I'm just hitting 191k miles this is with alot of city driving county driving... I tend to skip gears in the open zone but in city I really cant... also pick a good low gear for slow driving dont lug the motor it builds oil pressure isnt good to be in a higher gear and try to accelerate... no point in double clutching unless you're driving an 18wheelher that's beat to hell and kinda have to.
@@SmudgyContent Well what is wrong with rev matching, professor?
Milk revmatching causes strain on a transmission I'd add the research but it wont let me paste it.
@@SmudgyContent It probably won't let you paste because there is such an overwhelming amount of it, I'm sure.
Thank you Brian- that was amazing well explained clear enough and easy to follow a long you're too good,cheers for sharing.
2005 Honda Accord. Lot of noise from clutch which disappears when clutch is depressed. I assume throw out bearing, which was dry, but spinning freely. Replaced engine seal, flywheel, clutch assembly and thrown out bearing. 157K miles and clutch disc was almost worn to the rivets.
Great video, what is the pros and cons if installing a light weight flywheel?
Pros, less weight of the car and faster engine rev up. Cons, easier to stall the engine.
briansmobile1 thanks for the input
Great vid. 1 clutch in 240,000 miles is damn good.
Thanks!
Hi Brian I've got a Isuzu kB 350 LX and have a problem with clutch, it doesn't take gears when engine is running. I've managed to take out the pressure plate, clutch and flywheel for recon and skimming. I want to assemble it back. Called about 3 mechanics and they failed. Now I've decided to DIY following your video. It's a pulling clutch towards the transmission when engaged
love all your videos.
I had the clutch pedal assembly go out on me and disintegrate, luckily just as I got to pull into the door of my mechanic's shop. Took 3 days to repair, because there were no spare parts available, so the collection of pieces were taken to a welder and they put the kit back together with weld and extra metal plate.
when changing them very important to get that pilot bearing lubricated inside the housing, with just a little very tacky grease, and also lubricate the splines with some molyslip compound, straight out of the tube, bit on a clean rag and wipe the whole spline section to leave a thin film, and then use the rag to wipe the tips of the fingers as well, along with the pivot on the release bearing. Finish with a bit more on the pivot point, mixed with the super tacky grease to keep it smooth. As well on the outside of the pivot itself on the cable or slave cylinder bearing point. You just want a thin film to lubricate better than dry metal on dry metal, but not so much that it will get flung out into the clutch friction lining and ruin the clutch.
When assembling clean pressure plate surface and flywheel surface with a clean cloth and brake cleaner, and any spots of oil on the friction surfaces ( try not to do this, it reduces grip considerably) hit liberally with brake cleaner and let dry before assembly.
Only clutches that are designed to work in oil work in oil, the others all slip badly. Conversely wet clutches work really badly dry, they tend to burn up as they overheat. Wet clutches use only the OEM lubricant, not just whatever you have, it will end badly.
Yes I have degreased clutch packs by going out back, making a fire in a steel drum, soaking the friction liner in petrol and burning the oil out, but that was near unobtanium to get, discontinued by the German OEM (Lenze) around 1975. eventually found something that was usable there as friction material, just had to be cut to diameter and have a brass sleeve for the inner diameter.
06:30 -- "Not that that's possible unless you had a hole in your foot!" Haha!! Great video, always fun to watch and I learn so much from your explanations.
You're a funny guy. Thanks for the nice video. It shows a lot of hard work and lots of knowledge.
Great explanation on friction clutches.
Great video. It really shows me what I couldn't magine happening in my mind.
Excellent video. I learned so much. Thank you ..
I always love your videos. Have you thought about re-doing some of your older videos. I'm sure even you have learned some new tricks since 2008. Just an idea to keep the content coming.
Keep up the good work!
Roll head pry bars are the best for seals. Sometimes it's easiest to use a roll head against a regular pry bar when the seal or opening is that much bigger than the roll head pry bar.
Thank you for the information. Keep up the good work.
So I just took the transmission out of my truck and it’s my first time working on a manual. The throughout bearing is definitely bad and has a lot of we are on it from the fork, like gouging into the throw out bearing itself. What I was experiencing is if I needed to go into reverse the whole drive line would violently, and I mean extremely violently Bang into gear. The transmission transfer case and driveshaft would all violently jolt. Same thing in the first gear. It was better to start the vehicle in one of the two if you needed to start it in backup or go into forward. I really hope replacing the pivot ball, the fork and the throw out bearing is what is going to solve my problem because I simply don’t have the money for a new transmission also, it would smell like burning breaks altogether when I took it all apart I expected something as severe as what is on this video, but everything was in good condition except the forte, and the throughout bearing itself the pressure plate looked brand new all this stuff is about a year old the mechanic that put everything in for me, put it in wrong. He had it to where the fork was riding on the bearing itself and within a year it destroyed it
Good video. I learned a lot. Going to do my 01 Toyota Celina gts as soon as it comes in the mail. What were you riding g at the end. It looked as if you were flying. 8i just hit a mid life crisis and for whatever reason I’ve become obsessed with wanting to fly. I looked up hang gliding which looks like a huge learning curve. I want
T
O fly with the least time and effort possible.
Cute shoes, Brian ;)
Always informative and useful Brian. Thanks much! I recently bought a 2001 911 Carrera. I had the IMS bearing replaced and the mechanic showed me that the clutch was at about 50% left. I opted to saving $1000 and keeping the clutch. The car had 21k miles. I'm fairly easy on clutches. Did I make the right decision to keep the existing clutch?
Thanks Rob. Only time will tell, but I would be tempted to keep if it was my car and I was driving it too.
@@briansmobile1 Thanks Brian!
Great video, very informative but best part was the last few seconds. Damn that is beautiful.
Thanks!
Great video. I've learned a lot from watching just this one video! Thank you! great job!
Love this video man. Seriously film more. I have a question though , I have 2005 Chevy Colorado 2.8 4 cylinder with 5 speed manual transmission. It won't go into any gear while it is running. But when the engine is off it will g o in every gear and you don't even have to push the clutch in. I figure uts most defiantly a clutch issue so I have already ordered the parts. I seen this video after I ordered them but am I correct in it being the clutch or is the transmission in jeopardy of being bad as well?
Very informative. Thanks for the great videos!
Great video! Excellent description of the entire clutch assembly. I've done a few over the years but now only have automatic transmissions... Thanks for sharing. How would I show you a video of an issue I'm having?
You continue to be awesome. That is all.
very informative and clearly demonstrated
Fantastic video thanks for taking the time
Really cool video and great explanation.
Love the video. I sub at the end tho, That bird's eye view is relaxing. Thank you
awesome job! great format
I'm kinda sad to see manual transmissions disappear. It sounds like all wheel drive will be harder to diagnose and repair.
This was nice Thanks
Very cool video ! Thank you and God bless you.
Well done! Very informative!
Just found this. Great format. 2006 sti . Never done a complete clutch job. Fork failure likely. Slave cylinder ok
Great bonus footage
good job Brian now you can come and fix my jeep broken exhaust manifold bolt 07 jeep cherokee !!! XD
even though I am a civil engineer but really I enjoyed your demonstration about the clutch because I have Nissan patrol 83 models running well. how about 4 wheel gearbox and its connection to the clutch? Thanks. Greetings from Riyadh.
Bad ass video man really helped me out now I'll never have a problem puting in clutches ps yeezyee James ....you did awesome explaining every detail for clutch diagnosis 🙂
Excellent video - thanks
As good a video as i have seen. Excellent.
Excellent lesson.
If you skimmed the flywheel, would you reuse the flywheel bolts to mount or new bolts? If using old bolts, could the old bolts with blue threadlocker be used safely?
love your explanation broo
Out of curiosity, would using silicone to put that seal in hurt anything? Wondering why some seals go in dry while others you should use little grease
I often use Permatex right stuff as a sealant and lube-it-in. Some more soft and slippery silicones I've seen cause seals to pop out. The O.D. of the seal needs good purchase to stay in.
Thanks again!
So i did a clutch just finished it as of Sun 25 June 2023 it was good for the first i would say 30/60 minutes took off great now its seeming to be sluggish and i feel vibration in the pedal ( when i oush the clutch pedal down it goes away ) and also theres a slight noise ( rotational ) at the clutch/plate area would you by chance have any suggestions ( vehicle is a 94 isuzu rodeo )
Goosh now even better
Love peace an axle grease.
Much love keep the grease going brother.
Gearwrench indexable prybars love them
Frumos si bine explicat👍👍🙋
Awesome video ! Thank you !
Tq converter, a fluid coupling. Locking is a hydraulically or electronically actuated clutch within the converter, to stop parasitic loss during cruising speed.
^^^^^^^^ Incase anyone was curious.
Nice pink shoes brian
Excellent video.