Better Engine Building: Best Tips for Breaking in a New Camshaft
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2012
- The first few minutes of operation will determine the long-term survival of your flat-tappet camshaft. More agressive lobe designs, stronger valvesprings and changes to the additives in modern motor oils makes a "wiped" cam lobe much more likely than in the days of classic muscle cars. These are a few very important tips for properly breaking in your high performance flat tappet camshaft.
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This is excellent info! I'd like to add, pre time your ignition. Rotate the engine to roughly 12 degrees btdc by the harmonic balancer and timing mark. With the ignition on and a timing light hooked up, rotate the distributor until the timing light fires. snug the distributor hold down, make sure you have fuel, and the engine should fire immediately.
Is this with the est wire connected or disconnected?
@@freemanfornow264 Ignition completely hooked up and key on.
I agree with the "Moly-lube" bunch . I have built small block Chevys of all sizes, 6.5 Chevy diesels, 366 Chevy big blocks, 2.3 and 2.5 liter Fords, FE series Fords, Detroit Diesel 3-53 &4-53 engines, all were assembled with black molybdenum grease as assembly lube. First fire I ran them to 1800 rpm and held them there for 20-30 mins. Never had any valvetrain problems.
This video was done a while ago, but it was clear and easy to understand. I am building very mild street stuff, and following this camshaft issue, almost has me convinced I can't break in a flat tappet cam....(the only type of cam I have ever used)....no matter what I do. Materials have changed over the decades, but I am going to follow the correct procedure AGAIN...and try it again.
I love videos like this that deal with protecting and nurturing an engine.
omg im about to do this and im glad i watched this video THANKS
WOW... Learnt something new... Good cam lobes spin the push rod.... Just WOW!!!
Thanks for the video. I almost feel comfortable doing this myself.
Well I agree with most of this video. The failure rate of modern flat tappet cams is very very real. The 2000-2500 rpm is about the crank slinging oil up and onto the bottom of the lobes as they have no other source of lubrication. The laser cut lifter face holes do help with lubrication. I have built many motors and had up until very recently 100% success with cam break ins. I had a Comp cams 294s mechanical flat tappet eat two lobes. I used comp cams lube, break in additive and ran it as recommended. I was using comps lifters with lube holes. I noticed the lash opened up on two lobes and bingo cam is destroyed. Motor has to be removed completely dissembled and cleaned. I have a background in metallurgy and heat treating and question the quality of the modern cams casting materials and lifter material. I realize having parts manufactured in china is far more profitable but it comes at a price to the end user. The materials used, quality control and machining is simply inferior. I really have my doubts that the increase in cam failures is solely caused by a lack of zinc in modern oil. Incorrect pushrod length and valve geometry, worn and tight lifter bores or other problems that prevent the lifter from ROTATING are all cam killers. How many cams were failing in the 70s and 80s? The steps taken in this video are a little extreme but all good advice and will drastically reduce the chance of wiping out a lobe or 16. My question is what else is contributing to the failures. I would love to see a series of micro hardness tests, metal alloy comparisons, casting quality and machining comparisons with components made in the past when cam failures were far less common. Thanks for the video.
D H well you are on to something because metal was cast and mixed far better in the sixties and early 70's. Now metal mixing is on the cheap. Nitrite our cams. Wonder if that will help?
I'm glad you explained this. Now I don't have too.
They do have another source of lubrication. The connecting rod boss has a hole that squirts oil at the cam lobes. The reason pistons are marked to locate the front is so the holes point to the cam, not away from it. If the engine builder is aware of this, that is.
@@victorrobison5069 That applies to some engines, not on the standard SBC. There is no 'spit hole' on mid '60s'-forward rods.
So what camshaft manufacturer uses good materials in their cams?
This is good information, really well and clearly presented thank you.
good video and he was spot on about ZDDP removed from oils. Speed skiff community lost motors from flat tappet cam failures when additive removal occurred and is one reason OEMs use rollers now. Some dirt racers still use Rotella C4 as they said that is what builders recommend. C4 semi synthetic which may be the difference.
Thank you for all your efforts to teach
Great information my friend I've been in this a long time and never knew the Paint pen trick but it makes perfect sense. Thank you.
Great advice and great video from a professional
County boy is a beast. thanks for sharing.
Very informative clip nuce to learn some tricks from you good job great lecture
GREAT Video.
Small block chevys prior to '67 mid-year had a 2.0" rod journal. They had an oil "spit hole" on the part line between the rod body and the cap. These provided camshaft and cylinder wall lubrication. Later small blocks had a 2.1" rod journal and no spit holes. They oiled the camshaft and lower cylinder wall with oil edjected from between the big end of the rods from side clearance. We used to open the side clearance on engines the either idled excessively or operated at very low RPM. It worked well, but at high RPM, this could lead to oil flooding the cylinder walls and possibly higher oil consumption. Just an old school FYI.
I see the assembly lube doubles as hand cream.. good stuff.
Thank goodness someone actually explains it the right way
I just run certain diesel oils, on break in i still use an additive though. Been using delo in my engines, aswell as new holland tractor oil. New holland oil has a very high zinc content
Great video clear and easy to understand thank you
Thanks!
Thanks for the info
Nicely done.
Wow great explaining stuff.
Thanks!
well made and very helpful.
OMG ! some one with a clue . great job !
Thanks very much!
Good video I learned something
Great video
Excellent video....well done.
Thank you very much!
Great video thank you
Flat tapped, solid lifter, with an oiling hole.
These are the finer things in life!
The cams only come in chop-chop grinds on solids.
Good stuff, thanks
Thanks for the compliment and subscribing. Working to make lots more available very soon.
He. I have 540 with 8 71 in it how got wick dune to it. Can till my they
very good production , good information .
Thank you!
your welcome ,been a mechanic over 40 years ,
Finally, some actually explains the proper way to fire up a new engine! If you don’t believe horsepower monster, you best believe Keith Dorton from Automotive Specialty’s! He’s been in business forever, & has built more flat tappet small blocks than most anyone in the USA 🇺🇸! He’s built engines for the best of the best in circle track racing for decades! Also just because you have a roller cam doesn’t mean you should just start it & idle it either, it’s the same oiling system! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
You are clueless too.
This is good stuff. Makes me want to have a professional engine shop first-start and break-in my engine, considering I'd be too impatient or incompetent to do it myself.
-i had a machine shop build and prerun my amc 401,i picked it up,installed it in my truck and it lasted 5 minutes,had to remove the motor,they supposedly went thru it and rebuilt it,i installed my motor again and cam lobe went flat due to them not removing the outer springs for the cam breakin,they tried to tell me i did it,so dont assume the professional is gonna do it right,after that cam issue i parted ways with them and had them ship the replacement parts,that was 2014,im getting ready to pull the outer springs to do this cam breakin,with the added zinc + ,,also found they grinded on my intake and stripped a manifold hole in my head,and couldlnt supply the parts they said they removed ,over 4 grand i paid
odd h ... Sorry to hear about your expensive story . Talk to as many people as you can about a shops’ reputation before you decide to have them work on your stuff. Don’t decide by price either. You’ve got to find out the quality of their workmanship, how many specialized tools they have, and the extent of their knowledge. $4,000. is a costly lesson , especially when you get to thinking what that money would have added to your project !!
That last tip is probably the best idea ever
Great to see my old friends Keith and son Jeff really nice people. I wish them the best always.
I was pleased to see the cam being coated with spray graphite... I've used that for years. I did notice the lifters with the oil hole on the face... seems like a brilliant idea... too bad they're not available in a hydraulic version.
Yes, those lifters came from Comp Cams, and they are the trick. They provide pressurized oil from the lifter gallery directly to the face of the lifter so that there is always oil between the lifter and cam lobe. What's cool is that the hole is actually offset so that it isn't on the main contact point of the lobe. You can get them in solid flat tappet lifters only (Comp's Race Series and a version of their Performance Series). I guess they don't have them for hydraulics because it would bleed off too much oil pressure to keep the lifters properly pumped up. Not really sure on that one, though.
Makes sense... only so much oil to go around...
Remember Rhoads Lifters?
silicon212 o
silicon212
Some stock car racing classes require them. Some people restoring muscle cars like to stick to all-original parts. Plus, flat tappet lifters are cheaper than roller.
awesome video
+Alexander Merlos Thanks!
+Alexander Merlos
When you buy a new cam, it has a "manual", and say Atention: with the proper advices...
Great Video!
Although @ 2:00 you're right they reformulated but it was actually for the better:
15W40 “NEW” SHELL ROTELLA T Diesel Oil conventional, zinc = 1454 ppm
15W40 “OLD” SHELL ROTELLA T Diesel Oil conventional, zinc = 1171 ppm
Although why cheap out on oil, when you're spending $1,000s on a new engine.
Parkerizing a flat tappet cam will help as will a zinc based lube. Pressurizing the oiling system before initial startup is critical too.
If you do decide to go with a roller cam, make sure it's ground on a billet core. 👍
You are clueless.
very informative video. when a lobe is wiped, all that cam material rains down through the engine and gets in the bearings pretty bad. im rebuilding a 350 for a guy who just did this on his newly rebuilt engine. cam and bearings were wasted.
ThunderHead289 I always put a magnet in the pan. Everything wears. You would be surprised how much metal is collected on a good engine.
Just a small story , i use to have Polar Automotive in Alaska one of my customers bought a 78 L82 Corvette the car sat for 3-4 years so he put a new batter in and dumped gas down the carb it quit after a sort time ,when i took it apart there was not one lobe left , remember if you buy something that sat crank it over plugs out and oil it up ,
That is definitely great advice!
that spray on graphite was a interesting tip thanks.I just had a cam ruined by a lifter that wouldn't spin on initial start up.upon disassembly i noticed the cam lobe had a casting mark on the side of the lobe instead of on the non lift area of the cam.I think this extra casting line may have nicked the lifter enough to prevent it from spinning.Oh well your right things have changed.I remember starting the engines and letting them run at an Idle for 20 minutes with no problems.That was in the 1980's using the black/ moly assembly lube on vw engines.
good info
When I was working with Yamaha Marine the workshop manual recommend us to apply drive shaft grease ( Molybdenum) on the all the lobes when performing new installation.
bfg7084ful yeah it works great!
It's been almost 5 years since you uploaded this video, but I just found it, and was hoping you'd remember, or know, the part number for those lifters with the oil hole in the contact
face?
I have found all kinds of premium lifters with grooves for better oiling, but the Comp Cams lifter shown here eludes me.
Thanks!
Howard’s direct lube lifters
i like the paint on the push rod trick , awsome tip.
Hi there. Amazing video you have put together.
I am wanting to know, Is the break in period critical on a roller cam like the Chev LS?
Nope. If you have roller lifters, then break in is limited to getting the piston rings to seat. Maybe 10 minutes at 2,000 rpm and then good to go.
Excellent informative video.
I'm a car freak and I learned something. I was never that considerate of my cam or lifters. Good tips.
Iron American Dream on UA-cam.
One thing that can help keep things cooler and not ruin headers is to advance the timing up to about 10 degrees. The reason being when the engine is not under load it turns faster than the flame front travels and will finish burning in the exhaust. By advancing the timing your are giving the fuel more time to burn before the exhaust valve opens.
What about all of the new overhead cam DOHC that use flat tappet with shims. Why do they not require more (Zn3(PO4)2 as they would seem to have an even larger contact patch than the older bump sticks with push rods.
Thanks
Only one way to break a flat tappet in for sure.
Run it first with weak valve springs. Change them out for the ones you want to run.
Pull each lifter out and check them to see if they are spinning and the wear pattern.
Button your motor back up. Also torque the head gaskets again.
Yeah but most overlook the most important part...You use the moly lube only on the cam lobes and only on the bottoms of the lifters....Lots of people think they need the thick stuff on the sides of the lifters and thats bad because getting the lifters to rotate is the most important step in getting lifters to break into the camshaft correctly...
The longer you let the sticky stuff sit in the engine nd get stiffer is the faster the camshaft will fail.....
Great video. One thing caught my attention, Where do these high quality tappets come from ? I notice that even though the other parts and supplies that are mentioned have the supplier identified the lifters on the other hand you give very little information about. Please elaborate. I understand proprietary constraints but without this info the rest of the video is mostly useless.
*pauses video* I just want to give a shot out to that guy for having a steady enough hand to poor oil like that. I would have made a mess with my shaky ass hands LOL
thanks for the info you have gicen im still unsure because it came with a flatt tappet but has the mounts for a spider so im sort of in a state of confusion as to whether i can install a roller cam with oem roller lifters
Remove inner valve springs if you are braking in any real lift cam (340#+ of open spring pressure) run an oil hole face lifter. Rotela oil.
I blend stp, marvel, and stalube engine assembly lube with oil for break in and oil changes. Probably overkill. But, I've never had a c failure.
Using that wimpy thin red 'taco sauce' for initial lubrication on a flat tappet is a sure way to increase a camshafts inevitable demise. Use grey molly paste on the lobes and on the foot of the lifters.
Viking Mike that's what I use too never had trouble. I never had a cam go flat. Wonder why so many people had trouble.
Where can I buy gray molly lube
@@pabloorta3515 Joe Gibbs Driven Assembly Lube is the real deal.
Soak them in some -EXTREME GREEN - no lobe. Failure here ! Jest think dude !
great video. What are your thoughts on degreeing the camshaft? is it necessary? seems a bit complicated to me
+nick olivares I've got a video on my channel where I try to explain it as simply as possible, but degreeing a cam can be confusing the first time. An yes, if you are doing a straight-up rebuild, you can probably get by without degreeing in the cam. It becomes a lot more important when you are building a performance engine with a big cam. Then the piston-to-valve clearances get a lot tighter in the running engine and knowing your cam is opening and closing the valves exactly when you want it to becomes a lot more important. Hope that helps.
hi there, first i want to thank you for this great video, it really opens the mind..
second, i have a question.. I'm planning to install a custom grind cam on my GTO (ls1 engine) I'm going to change the timing set and the springs and the push rods. do i need to do every step in this video? or just do it normally? because i getting a bit worried after seeing all this infromation and tips in the video! it considers a medium cam by the way (the one I'm about to install) .
so please give me your advise, it could really help me out. thanks
+Muh Har Everything you can do will help. Since that video was made new lifters have gotten better (just make sure they are quality from a known manufacturer and not some no-name stuff off ebay). You don't have to break in a new cam on an engine dyno. Just make sure to use a good cam assembly lube on the lobes. Your cam manufacturer will likely provide a packet of the stuff, if not I use Driven Assembly Grease and it works well, you can find a small tube of the stuff on SummitRacing.com for four bucks. When you first fire your engine, make sure you are running a break-in oil, run the engine between 1,800 and 2,400 rpm for 20 to 30 minutes and then drain your oil and replace it with the regular stuff and you should be good to go. Good luck!
Very imformative. Still for me...there's gonna be some cranking before initial start-up. 20 seconds maybe. I think it's unavoidable. Well, unless you've got a nice big shop (dyno) and unlimited resources. I've been using flat tappet cams (of varying lift....some well over 500 lift) for years and only had one go flat on me... It was the very first one I ever did. "Elgin" brand. Don't know If it was my fault or not. But now I only go with more popular brands like Comp, Iskenderian, Edelbrock, ect. The zinc oil additive is the most important thing I can think of for longevity.
Advanced timing helps
This is nice video. I learned a lot. I've got a question.. I have a GMC Sierra with K&N intake long tube headers size 1 7/8. Y-pipes no cats. and Borla catbak side dual tips.
So, what type of cam should I take if I want to use it daily and 100 MPH long trip. What if I want to add a supercharger later?
+ALOOSH M. That engine is already set up with a hydraulic roller from the factory, which is the best design for what you are wanting to do. You can work with companies like Comp Cams or Crane Cams to find the right cam lobe design to make the power you want. The cam will install without any modifications to the engine, but you will likely also need to upgrade your valvesprings. Hope this helps.
+The Horsepower Monster Thank you. I appreciate your reply.
Great video. I believe that a lot of diy people are having issues with cam because of not following the proper steps.....since they put it on video you can witness it first hand
I'll be doing cam and lifter on my 66 Pontiac 326 here soon!
In recent years I have had 3 cams fail but always its the fuel pump drive lobe, any idea why? That lobe is not agressive at all, its just an eccentric circle, should have far less wear, but that is always the one that fails
After doing everything right and still wiping a cam I learned of a company called Cam Research. They have a machine called the camking 2000. It pre breaks in a cam outside the engine..using plenty of oil and gradually increasing spring pressure. The service costs $50 not including shipping and handling. They mostly deal with Fords..but the gentleman on the phone said they can do chevys...sorry Mopar guys they can't help you. It may have been the best $50 piece of mind I ever bought.. just install and fire up and adjust idle..no wearing headphones and 2500 rpms not to mention that new engine having to "fire right up".. which sometimes happens..but more than most likely won't.
How much for a 302 cam and lifters
I am worried one of my cam lobes are bad in my flat tappet hydraulic camshaft in my drag car so I marked the push rod like u do in this video.. one turns full around and the other is only 1/4 way around.. so I take it that lobe is gone? Runs good been racing it for a month
What do you recommend doing for a new cam that's been sitting in the engine for awhile (over a month) before the break-in?
I let mine sit for several years. I never coated the cam with lube or installed the lifters. Finally when I got serious I dribbled breakin lube down the lifter bores onto the lobes as well as the base of the lifters.
Being a 300 inline six this was quite simple. No need to have intake manifold off.
Valvoline Racing oil has a higher zinc content too.
Wish I saw this before I wiped out my cam in the 347 I just built. 5 miles on the motor, exhaust lobe on cyl four got flattened out
@Peter the break in part lol
Nice job. Might want to clarify that you should NOT put cam lube on the sides of the lifters. It was done correctly in video, but not mentioned. Other than that, it is very nicely done.
What this mean? No put on sides?
Proper break-in oil VERY important accompanied with assembly lube and revs for flat lifters.
Great video I do think however I would have used a drill on that distributor to get the pressure up and circulating the oil, don’t think a speed handle will do it. You can also remove the plugs for this part of the process to keep pressure off the connecting rods etc. I didn’t know about grafite spray lubricant! Thanks!
What are good quality brand flat tappet lifters you would recommend?
I agree with most of the video. I just won't use a Comp Cams camshaft. Two if them have gone bad for me during proper break in. My neighbor has also had one fail on his break in. Rollers for me from now on.
I steer clear from comp products. They are the mass produced Mcdonalds of motor parts. Just slightly better than proform.
UTG Had some issues with Comp Cams, consensus?...Chineseium
If you wipe out a cam on break-in do you have to replace all the bearings and rings and start over???
Yes i know but my 350 block has the holes for a spider and when i look up the cast number 14093638 it say roller or flatt tappet would i need to buy the retro fit lifters or the standard roller lifters tht work with telhe spider?
whats the best way to insure proper break in if you are building the motor from scratch? IE Ignition timing may not be dialed in or the carburetor might need tune. Im building a 383 stroker right now and I need to swap cams to something more mild. The ignition system is brand new and not dialed in. How can I not damage the cam while setting timing to where the motor will run properly for the break in period?
You don't necessarily need the engine running at its best tune, it only needs to run at no-load for 20 min. Obviously you don't want a super-rich mixture to be dumping excess fuel into the oil, but you don't need the level of tuning that would be required for good smooth street-driving. You'd need to make sure things are simply good enough for the engine to start very quickly. Making sure you have enough fuel is perhaps the easiest thing to overlook, esp if you're running off a gascan underhood. 20min will eat more fuel than you'd expect, even at no load.
thanks for the input. I had a buddy tell me to set the Distributor at 0 and give it a slight turn to advance and it should run for that break in period. so Im gonna go along with that. As long as it starts and run I guess is all im looking for.
Good advice - that was something I was worried about, too. Another thing for me was I already had 87-octane gas in the tank, but my computer is tuned to run on 91. Not only that, the fuel had been sitting in there longer than a year, and when I fired up the motor it ran just fine. Might need to drive out that old gas before I get full power potential, but it was good enough for the break-in.
Yes, this. I just set timing by ear, making sure it's in the right place to start the engine to begin with. I run for 20 minutes also, varying RPM between 1800 and 2300 during this time. A Chevy 350 with a mild build consumed 1.5 gallons of gasoline in this time, when I ran it in on an engine stand.
It is a myth that 91 octane in itself gives more power. Actually, the opposite might be true. Octane is a rating of a gasoline's ability to resist detonating - the higher the number, the more energy required to ignite it. If an engine has a high enough compression ratio (9.5:1 on iron heads, 10.5:1 on aluminum), a higher octane is needed to prevent preignition / detonation. This prevents broken spark plugs and pistons, and bent valves, and blown head gaskets and other things that can happen when the fuel does not properly deflagrate.
Adding boost to an engine will artificially boost the compression ratio, so if this is the case you need to take that into consideration. Ditto for nitrous oxide.
Always run the lowest octane fuel you can run without detonation.
I have a question. Does the test to see if the push rods spin work with hydraulic lifters too?
Yes. It works for any flat tappet. Thanks for watching
Good advice and nice presentation, guys. My advice is to spend a few more dollars on roller cam and lifters. Say goodbye to premature lobe failure. 😉
Yes, the only place flat tappets are really used any more are restorations and some racing classes. Thanks for watching!
I watch often and subscribed because The Monster is wise and shares that wisdom with the pushrod Ford crowd for a refreshing change. Some tech articles about the superior flow and power levels the alloy Cleveland heads are achieving nowadays would be an interesting change of pace. It’s all good but some are just naturally better than flogging the General’s tired mule to death 😉.
Here's your best tip: get a roller cam.
Actually the zinc provided a certain friction that is required per how a flat tappet cam is supposed to work. New oils are too slippery without zinc and will prevent the lifter from spinning, as it is designed to do according to the slight angle that a flat tappet cam surface is ground at. Once this angle is worn flat on the peak of the lobe it is finished and the damage will continue grinding the lobe flatter.
***** Didn't think of another way to say it, but yeah, without zinc the lifter doesn't spin over the lobe like it's designed to.
If you don't get it you probably never will.
There's no reason for zinc in oil with todays engines cause they all use roller cams.
Oil breaks down due to heat cycling; don't be silly.
Have not been using zinc in my 65 mustang gor he last 10 years. Looks like you're wrong.
@@TOMVUTHEPIMP Your mustang was never any good in the first place.
@@causeimbatmaaan Your mom liked the back seat, son.
Update: This is controversial, but the newer additive packages seem to have caught up in the last 5-10 years since the Zinc/ZDDP phase-out. Most of my cars run flat tappets, and modern synthetic (after break in!). While I used to use rotella, their formula also changed! With over 280,000miles on one (never rebuilt) engine in particular, and cams still looking great, I have to conclude that with proper assembly and break-in, cams of quality manufacture will last the life of the engine. A good break-in oil (with Zinc and Moly) is still best practice, followed by a change to your expected operating oil immediately thereafter. I might add that if your cams are already 'broken in', engine break-in is best done at higher load and rpm, the lower RPM's in this video apply to the way the cams are oiled in this particular engine family. If you are running in an ohc engine, break-in can and should be done HARD to bed the rings, and provide additional oil pressure. This is not gospel, but is the approach of most manufacturers.
A question: Who has had experince with graphite in engines, positive or negative? I was always told that was a no-no, for perhaps the same reasons PTFE solids can have issues. I imagine it's mostly caught by the filter, and would protect a momentarily 'dry' part, but I don't have any data to back any of my assumptions. I know Project Farm did a video on graphite oil additive (it found no benefit as an additive if I recall), but it did not address the types of application, or concerns I have. Thanks in advance for any constructive input.
can someone give me an answer on springs,is the "damper" considered a spring that should be removed for break in?or is it ok to leave it in?
Damper does not have to be removed
I put in a new cam in an engine a time or two and I always coated the cam with high temperature wheel bearing grease..That stuff is high in zinc additive I think also..
Robert Diehl Bearing grease definitely won't wipe off too easily. If you have had success with it then great. One caution about that is it isn't designed for an engine. Wheel bearing grease can use additives that make it very good for that purpose but poor for an engine. For example, PTFE is a good option for lots of different high pressure greases because it is very good at cutting friction for long periods. The problem is it is a solid (think wax) and coats the metal surfaces it comes up against. PTFE does good for the moving parts in an engine but coats the inside of the oil galleries and clogs it up just like too much pizza will your arteries. It cuts oil supply to lifters and journals but you won't know it because the oil pressure still reads high because of the restricted galleries. Anyhow, I'm not saying you are wrong, and if it works for you then more power to you. Just that it is always a good idea to make sure anything you use for a lube is compatible with all the demands required by an engine.
The Horsepower Monster Oh yea ,you a right to use what you are using ..That was along time ago in the 1980s ,I was working on a 300 cid six cylinder Ford,I do not think PTFE was used back then in wheel bearing grease.,I assumed the warm motor oil thinned it out and mixed it in with the motor oil since I was just using it to prevent metal contact of dry cam shaft lobes and lifters at the start..Kendall Blue does not use PTFE ,so I would not be afraid to use a thin coat that but then again I would go with the lube you are using .PTFE ruined many engines by filling in the cross hatch marks in the cylinder walls..
Robert Diehl Great point.
Hello friend, I have a question related to this, if I remove all the lifters and activate the oil pump, should the same amount come out of all the ducts that feed the lifters? I am telling you this because in my engine, with the engine running and the rocker arm covers removed, not all of them release the same amount of oil on the rocker arms and if there is one that shoots jets that make the pressure clockwise The oil oscillates, is it possible that this lifter is causing so much noise in the engine, knock-knock type, and that the oil does not reach the other lifters properly, why does the pressure go away from that one? Greetings I hope you can help me
if i have a flat tappet cam in my 350 chevy can i swap to a hydraulic roller?
does this apply to all engines? japanese alike? new cams and lifters on a mazda bp engine....fresh rebuild.
great
Informative video.
Boop boop thump "music" is annoying.
how do you knock down spring pressure for cam break in ? I have edelbrock performer rpm heads sbc , it says open pressure at .580 is 338 lbs . I think my lift is only going to be .508 , im seeing a .490 lift can be 285 lbs open spring pressure . So basicly anything other than a stock cam is going to need to have the spring pressure lowered for break in . seems like such a hassle . what do you do , put on break in springs ?
oops , should have kept watching instead of pausing
If you have double springs just use the outer spring to run it for awhile. It's a pain but so is changing a new cam gone junk.
Here it is 2022 October and my research has not found one article that is an update showing how well or badly this method has worked over the years since 2017.... Anyone found anything?
I think the author has it backwards, id est, the zinc was going to be removed due to complications with the catalytic converter so the auto manufacturers started employing the more expensive roller lifters which do not need the high level of zinc. High zinc oil is available from Amsoil. Check out their website - Amsoil.com. Just saying, I do like the other tips.
Hi, i was wondering if the ZDDP requirements for flat tappet
lifters applied to
Solid flat tappet
or
hydraulic flat tappet lifters?
Both.
Knowing what I know now at this level of technology. I wouldn’t waste time on on anything less than a Vortex or LS + motor. Too easy to make long living high output motors now. Exception: matching number for a classic.
Also lots of stock car racing classes require a flat tappet. I'm in the southeastern United States, and it is still a pretty big deal in stock car country. Thanks for watching.
The Horsepower Monster
Kinda like a cost limiting factor and output limiting, akin to restrictor plates. I get it.
So what happens if something goes wrong, say the engine overheats during the break in and you have to shut it down? What happens then?
I feel like roller cam is better for the brain. flat tappets are stressful lol
I like to put it this way... Yes the roller cam costs more. However, what are you going to spend when your flat tappet cam break-in fails? Going roller cam seems like money well spent.
Yeah but if you like rpms like me, then a solid lifter flat tappet is the way to go becuause all hydraulics are limited to 6000rpm and solid rollers don't work on the street.
A solid lifter camshaft is a great thing if you don't mind adjusting the lash from time to time. A solid lifter camshaft is great for short stroke engines - best bang for buck for the rev head.
Roller cams have had high failure rate as well due to how quickly they ramp upwards on the lobe. LS engines have experienced both lifter & cam failure from this . No amount of Zinc will cure it either.
No argument here, but with some engines there's no alternative to flat tappets. I'm working on an old Buick, and there's no such thing as a roller cam for this particular engine.
One question ... how do i break in a new flat tapped camshaft on a car with catalytic converter .. i know that they doesnt like zinc additives :( ... so there has to be an alternative...
want to use a 204 / 214 @0,05" s camshaft in my 2.8 pontiac
Maybe just disconnect catalytic converter for break-in period?