This is old video but easy way to set your initial timing is this - put balancer at a convenient degree mark, say 10 with dist at #1 plug - rig out your spark tester or a plug and ground it, using #1 plug wire - turn key switch on - watch plug/tester while you rotate dist shell back and forth a little bit, you will see or hear the spark every time the trigger wheel or points operate - work it so soon as you see/hear spark, stop moving, snug dist down some. At that point it is within a degree or two of where you wanted it and will light off if gas is in carb. Beats letting a fresh cam idle while you fiddle with timing.
That’s an awesome tip!!!! Thank you!!! I am about to do a FTH cam swap, and in light of ALL the disasters- I know I need to make it fire instant, and keep her up above 2K for 20-40 minutes, but with EVERYTHING ELSE HAPPENING ALL AT ONCE, the last thing I wanted to do was screw with timing- especially since a timing light is almost useless at over 2K, unless you’re looking for full advance!your method WILL be getting used!!!! I want every possible advantage to make this cam live on the first try!! What do you think about adding an extra quart (or two?) in for break in for oil splash? Again, thank you for this tip!!’ Dave
I would have filled the carb bowels through the vents so it would not have to have multiple starts prior to breaking in the cam. You got lucky because the last thing you should ever do is let a engine idle or stop and restart during cam break in. You should also vary the rpm between 2000 -2500 during break in
Just broke my cam in, what a nerve racking process. Getting the timing right for the first fire was the toughest part of the hole deal. I used a coolant funnel and open thermostat so I wouldn't have any over heating issue.
Hey man good post. I know that one dude was getting down on u for letting it idle for sec or what ever it was. I've had a couple motors that never through the initial 20 30 min right from start up and they were just fine. I hear a lot of people saying "this or that" will easily cause a cam to go flat during break in. There's a lot of fear surrounding these flat tappet cams. And a lot of talk about removing inner dampeners or springs for break-in. Do u think they're making crappier cams now-a-days or what? Most of my stuff now-a-days is pretty tame. Less than 500 lift, but Iv'e done a couple of cams well over 600 lift with all the springs in place during break-in and never a problem. But that was back in the 80's and early 90's (and only a couple of times) I wonder if cams are getting crappier now. As I'm sure you deduced by now...I'm an old man now and all this talk has got me a little worked up about wrecking this motor I'm getting ready to fire now. I guess I'll find out soon enough. liked and subbed...BTW this vid is almost 4 years old now how did your car turn out? have u posted any more videos of it? I would like to see what it is.
One of the cool things I saw was spraying the cam with graphite spray during assembly. Then coating in assembly lube. Then the zinc add in when ready to start.
To anyone watching this video about to break in a sft cam in their bbc, DO NOT USE THE LUCAS ZDDP ADDITIVE! It will not work in modern oils of today (2024). Modern oils will not allow it to adhere to your cam or lifters as needed. You need to go with a oil specifically for older engines such as "driven BR30 5w30 break in oil" or another hot rod motor oil with high zddp specifically for break in on fresh builds. There's been a wave of people out there wiping lobes after using the Lucas, or another, zddp additive, pulling inner springs, doing everything they've done for years with success every time. It's all in the oil! Modern oils of 8 and 10 years ago took the additive fine but today's just wont. I've had a front row seat watching all these folks having their engines rebuilt by a friend of mine while I have been using 2 bays in his shop to do a frame off rotisserie resto on my 71 chevelle. He builds / rebuilds about 60 motors a year for folks and 2 3rds of em are sft for the same guys he's been doing this for over and over for 40 years and he specifically tells them all to use driven br30 and then do all the other stuff they've always done and the ones who don't do that wipe every single time! Well actually one didn't but never the less, it's woth the few extra bucks just do it!
Ironhorse127 already said this. Never stop to set your time to be right on at your first start up. In the amount of time it took you to set your timing. You could have wiped out atleast one lobe. Anyone who is watching this video. Please don't do it this way....
I could of edited that out of the video.. but I didn’t.. how many cams have you broken in without letting the engine idle? that’s what I want to know..
Without letting the engine idle? Well over 100. As soon as she fired I’d crank the idle up. Never had an issue. However one other thing I would do, I’m sure other people do it as well but maybe not is when I set the valve lash I would add a couple thousandths to whatever the specs were are on the cam card.
Good video . I love big block Chevys , owned a bunch of them over the years . I run them and buy and sell a lot of them . Unfortunately you can do everything right on a big block and the cams will still fail sometimes . I own an engine machine shop here in Alabama and have seen it all . If I build a performance big block I always highly recommend a roller cam . They are lot less trouble but a lot more $$$$$ .
OH MY GOD THANK YOU..... yes, i know what you are talking about... it really comes down to the cam and springs... and yes, just go with a roller... this is actually the first cam i broke in.. i have never had a cam fail... ive built 11 engines and drove them all without problems for years... but they were all stock ish.. this cam is the closest to the factory ls6 solid as i could get.. so i broke it in... if it does fail... i already have the roller cam picked out... i almost want it to fail... so it probably wont.. thanks for the comment
This old forum but for future info comp cams say rotella T4 15w40 is good enough for break in oil and she'll rotella just put out saying they have not changed their oil , I run it my semi and my ford f350 diesel that has 450,000 miles and still in great shape
if the cam goes flat i will make an update video... i knew about not letting the engine idle.. but this is a 100% FRESH NEW EVERYTHING engine and starting it for the first time... i wasnt going to rev it up to 2000 NO MATTER WHAT.. i needed to hear it spin first.. if the cam goes bad, in which it has not so far... JAN 25 2020.. i will make an update video...id rather a cam go bad than have something not break in correctly on the engine.. i know it is supposed to (i plasti gauged everything ) be able to start and rev instantly..it literally idles for 20 seconds.. when you do finally break your cam in your gonna find out real fast... i could of edited that out.. i left it in.... dont leave a stupid comment if you have never broke a cam in.. karma will get your ass, i promise.. there are other videos that edit out what i leave in... dont be fooled by the real dumb ass.. hear the engine run in my chevelle update video.. if you are an idiot and think it didnt break in right
Heyy I changed the camshaft in my 305... I didnt breake the cam in because i was an idiot.. BUT it stil works perfectly after 15000 miles! It was a summit k1102, also flat taped. Greatings from switzerland!
Why not i did a hard break in before the engine ever started all i did was prime the lifters the person who built the engine owns a machine shop everything was balanced from connecting rods to the crank on up cuts down on vibration i have a 2000 jeep inline 6 putting out 400 horses with a supercharger putting out 5 to 10 lbs of boost they broke in the flat tappets cam at about 2500 rpms 20 mins drained the break in oil and put in 10w30 Amsoil full synthetic google it i will not put anything else in any of my cars except Amsoil did 3 pulls on the dynamometer wide open if the engine is built right after you break in the cam your good to go. just saying
$15 or more for the Lucas is a tad dear. I use Howards Max ZPM at about 1/2 the price. And when I can get Valvoline VR-1 on sale, I go that route and skip the additive alltogether. And for that matter, if Lucas give you wamr fuzzies, they make a Hot Rod & Classic Car oil that needs no additive. The trick to not sweating the timing with the first startup on a new engine is either a damper with timing tape, or a timing light with an advance function (dialback). Get the engine started, and get it immediately up to 2000 rpm. Then use the dialback function (if you don't have damper tape) or just read the advance off the timing tape (if you do have it). At 2000 rpm, ought to be around 25° BTDC. The only things you need to be worrying about are: 1. Engine temp, 2. Oil pressure, 3. Any massive leaks?, and 4. Coolant level after thermostat opening. Once the 25 minute break in is done, shut off, change oil & filter, and NOW go and properly set the timing. Nice sounding motor. I assume 2+ years later, all is still well? Love the BB Chevy's. Built my first 427 back in '76 for a '66 Chevelle SS. Wish we had the cool parts back then that are around now ('course, back then we saved for weeks just for a new carb, so lotsa cool parts don't mean we could have afforded 'em). :)
A couple weeks back I bought a 327 block and heads. It will be a while before I'm at this point, but thank you for posting this! It helps me not be so nervous about it. It will be my first engine build
@@chriscraft77022 yeah I heard that some oils have detergents in them and they're really bad for the zinc. It like literally washes off the zinc instead of it absorbing into the cam. But I definitely will look into it more. Nevertheless I really appreciate your videos
I’ve never had a cam go flat.. the truth is that if the cam profiles are close to stock you are not likely to damage one.. when you run high lift hydraulic flat tappet cams with heavy springs then you are way more likely to screw a cam break in up.. I’ve built 11 small blocks and 2 big blocks
@@chriscraft77022 I totally believe you! because if you did you would change what you were doing. That's just human nature. And what you said about the cams makes sense. Luckily the cam I'm going to go with is considered a mild/ street cam. So I hopefully won't have any issues
@@DrShankenstein when i did my cam break in video there were NO videos on youtube.. not a single one.. i got the oil off a racing website.. the truth is that if it washes the zinc off.... all the lobes would fail and it would even run.. big blocks are known to have a lobe go flat in a year if you run it hard.. the cam instructions said to avoid letting the engine idle.. not DONT LET THE ENGINE IDLE.. !!!!! you will find out.. dont be fooled by the other videos that edit out all the stuff i chose not to..
I'm wanting to put a new Comp Cam in my Ford F150 96 model 5.0 and I didn't know if it was worth it for the horsepower how much horsepower will I get and will the sound be good but I want it to sound good and have a lot more power taking off is their any tricks or things that will save me time installing the Cam and lifters they said I don't need to change lifters or springs is this true ? thank you Tim Smith
Anyone know what to do when breaking in the engine with a fresh rebuild th400 trans attached, I want to fill the trans to proper level, but how do you do that with the engine spinning around 2k rpm?
Well. Leave it in either park neutral or neutral. Before starting, fill the trans with dexron rated oil for GM trans. It's best to change the pan gasket and oil prior. Start fresh. Fill to the cold line, warm up the engine, then shut it down when it's at operating temp. Check the trans fluid level. With the engine running, input shaft and converter all connected and bolted, check the fluid level. A trans dipstick labels cold and hot fluid levels. Since the trans isn't going to fully operate, and just stay in neutral during the break in, wait until the engine is finished. Let it idle, and check the level. As long as you have fluid, even a little bit, and cooling lines, it will be ok. You don't want the trans to overheat.
I have a Ford 69 390 rebuilt I'm working my way up to the cam break in put a dual energy 265 comp cam this be my fist cam break in ....thanks for posting
@@chriscraft77022 the general craftsmanship in the lifters is very sub par today. i have replaced 3 cams in a bbc doing everything correctly, oils, additives, removing 1 spring even did a cam dance. you can actually hear the tone when the cam starts to go flat. i swallowed the pill and went with a hydraulic roller. i have been putting cams in engines since the 70's. the cost of going to a roller is small compared to the cost of a total rebuild. think about it. good luck chris
oh, I know.. about rollers.. big block flat tappet cams usually have a lobe fail anyway if you run them hard after a year with strong springs.. I didn’t get lucky... I could care less if the damn thing went flat ... the car is getting a roller anyway... that cam was just to get the engine running for the first time...I’m going to do videos running it hard to see how long the cam lasts
Ok so I’ve got a question. I just replaced lifters but not the cam on a flat tappet engine. Do I need to do the 2k rpm for 20 mins, or will it not matter since I still have the original cam?
steve coleman yeah agreed but to each their own the nice thing about a roller cam tho is you don’t need to use break in oil but I don’t believe this is roller
Hey Chris I have a 350 sbc and I have a hydraulic cam and lifters. My question is what is the difference between hydraulic cams and any of the other cams? I googled it and didn't quite get much other than the way the cams touch the lifters or something. Would you be willing to do a video on it?
thats the difference... more friction and more wear on a flat tappet... the roller cam will free up a little power and also allow for better cam profiles that cant be offered in a flat tappet.. by opening the valve faster and keeping it open longer ... in other words roller cams are what you want but they are expensive.. just look up flat tappet versus roller videos.. i personally dont know enough about cams to make a video
When starting a Big Block for the first time , check for oil pressure and temperature. After that looks good , put it on the mat and rev it 4-5000 RPM for ten minutes hoping for the best. If it can take that , it will last forever.
I think you would have better off keeping the break in oil in it for 1500 miles. Then it's fully broke in. Drain it and if you seated the rings in both directions then go with Mobil 1. You don't have to use the zink additive( that's what the molly is) at every oil change. It was actually made to use in break in only for the newer designed engines and over head cams. In a normal push rod motor the cam tunnel gets oil 2nd it goes through the mains then rod journals then to the cam tunnel. In a over head cam it doesn't get oil to the top until last. And with the needle bearing rocker arm shafts it needs not oil sooner but thinner to lubricate the needles. So to correct that tolerances got tighter and engines now all use a 5 w oil for starts ups.
With zink additive you have to use a detergent free oil. I believe Rotella is a high detergent oil.
This is old video but easy way to set your initial timing is this - put balancer at a convenient degree mark, say 10 with dist at #1 plug - rig out your spark tester or a plug and ground it, using #1 plug wire - turn key switch on - watch plug/tester while you rotate dist shell back and forth a little bit, you will see or hear the spark every time the trigger wheel or points operate - work it so soon as you see/hear spark, stop moving, snug dist down some. At that point it is within a degree or two of where you wanted it and will light off if gas is in carb. Beats letting a fresh cam idle while you fiddle with timing.
That’s an awesome tip!!!! Thank you!!! I am about to do a FTH cam swap, and in light of ALL the disasters- I know I need to make it fire instant, and keep her up above 2K for 20-40 minutes, but with EVERYTHING ELSE HAPPENING ALL AT ONCE, the last thing I wanted to do was screw with timing- especially since a timing light is almost useless at over 2K, unless you’re looking for full advance!your method WILL be getting used!!!! I want every possible advantage to make this cam live on the first try!!
What do you think about adding an extra quart (or two?) in for break in for oil splash? Again, thank you for this tip!!’ Dave
@@davenkaren2572 use the proper amount of oil. Too much can cause problems with bubbles and stuff.
I would have filled the carb bowels through the vents so it would not have to have multiple starts prior to breaking in the cam. You got lucky because the last thing you should ever do is let a engine idle or stop and restart during cam break in. You should also vary the rpm between 2000 -2500 during break in
have you ever broke a cam in? 🤔
He has tbi no carb
Just broke my cam in, what a nerve racking process. Getting the timing right for the first fire was the toughest part of the hole deal. I used a coolant funnel and open thermostat so I wouldn't have any over heating issue.
Joe Gibbs break in oil
Here I am again, I always run across your videos... must be an A-body thing.
Hey man good post. I know that one dude was getting down on u for letting it idle for sec or what ever it was. I've had a couple motors that never through the initial 20 30 min right from start up and they were just fine. I hear a lot of people saying "this or that" will easily cause a cam to go flat during break in. There's a lot of fear surrounding these flat tappet cams. And a lot of talk about removing inner dampeners or springs for break-in. Do u think they're making crappier cams now-a-days or what? Most of my stuff now-a-days is pretty tame. Less than 500 lift, but Iv'e done a couple of cams well over 600 lift with all the springs in place during break-in and never a problem. But that was back in the 80's and early 90's (and only a couple of times) I wonder if cams are getting crappier now. As I'm sure you deduced by now...I'm an old man now and all this talk has got me a little worked up about wrecking this motor I'm getting ready to fire now. I guess I'll find out soon enough. liked and subbed...BTW this vid is almost 4 years old now how did your car turn out? have u posted any more videos of it? I would like to see what it is.
One of the cool things I saw was spraying the cam with graphite spray during assembly. Then coating in assembly lube. Then the zinc add in when ready to start.
To anyone watching this video about to break in a sft cam in their bbc, DO NOT USE THE LUCAS ZDDP ADDITIVE! It will not work in modern oils of today (2024). Modern oils will not allow it to adhere to your cam or lifters as needed. You need to go with a oil specifically for older engines such as "driven BR30 5w30 break in oil" or another hot rod motor oil with high zddp specifically for break in on fresh builds. There's been a wave of people out there wiping lobes after using the Lucas, or another, zddp additive, pulling inner springs, doing everything they've done for years with success every time. It's all in the oil! Modern oils of 8 and 10 years ago took the additive fine but today's just wont. I've had a front row seat watching all these folks having their engines rebuilt by a friend of mine while I have been using 2 bays in his shop to do a frame off rotisserie resto on my 71 chevelle. He builds / rebuilds about 60 motors a year for folks and 2 3rds of em are sft for the same guys he's been doing this for over and over for 40 years and he specifically tells them all to use driven br30 and then do all the other stuff they've always done and the ones who don't do that wipe every single time! Well actually one didn't but never the less, it's woth the few extra bucks just do it!
Ironhorse127 already said this. Never stop to set your time to be right on at your first start up. In the amount of time it took you to set your timing. You could have wiped out atleast one lobe.
Anyone who is watching this video. Please don't do it this way....
I could of edited that out of the video.. but I didn’t.. how many cams have you broken in without letting the engine idle? that’s what I want to know..
Without letting the engine idle? Well over 100. As soon as she fired I’d crank the idle up. Never had an issue. However one other thing I would do, I’m sure other people do it as well but maybe not is when I set the valve lash I would add a couple thousandths to whatever the specs were are on the cam card.
Grind Cams Much? It doesn't need timing! It NEEDS OIL!!! Time it LATER!! Never, never, never idle a flat tappet cam on initial start up
I doubt you have ever broke a cam in on your own
It dose take some time to get oil to come up .
valvoline conventional racing oil has zinc ,or amsoil is good for break in .
Amsoils good for anything, i wouldn't use anything from my lawn mower to my big rig except Amsoil
Good video . I love big block Chevys , owned a bunch of them over the years . I run them and buy and sell a lot of them . Unfortunately you can do everything right on a big block and the cams will still fail sometimes . I own an engine machine shop here in Alabama and have seen it all . If I build a performance big block I always highly recommend a roller cam . They are lot less trouble but a lot more $$$$$ .
OH MY GOD THANK YOU..... yes, i know what you are talking about... it really comes down to the cam and springs... and yes, just go with a roller... this is actually the first cam i broke in.. i have never had a cam fail... ive built 11 engines and drove them all without problems for years... but they were all stock ish.. this cam is the closest to the factory ls6 solid as i could get.. so i broke it in... if it does fail... i already have the roller cam picked out... i almost want it to fail... so it probably wont.. thanks for the comment
This old forum but for future info comp cams say rotella T4 15w40 is good enough for break in oil and she'll rotella just put out saying they have not changed their oil , I run it my semi and my ford f350 diesel that has 450,000 miles and still in great shape
Shim the starter before you wipe out the bendix or worse the flex plate
the timing was too advanced
if the cam goes flat i will make an update video... i knew about not letting the engine idle.. but this is a 100% FRESH NEW EVERYTHING engine and starting it for the first time... i wasnt going to rev it up to 2000 NO MATTER WHAT.. i needed to hear it spin first.. if the cam goes bad, in which it has not so far... JAN 25 2020.. i will make an update video...id rather a cam go bad than have something not break in correctly on the engine.. i know it is supposed to (i plasti gauged everything ) be able to start and rev instantly..it literally idles for 20 seconds.. when you do finally break your cam in your gonna find out real fast... i could of edited that out.. i left it in.... dont leave a stupid comment if you have never broke a cam in.. karma will get your ass, i promise.. there are other videos that edit out what i leave in... dont be fooled by the real dumb ass.. hear the engine run in my chevelle update video.. if you are an idiot and think it didnt break in right
Heyy
I changed the camshaft in my 305...
I didnt breake the cam in because i was an idiot.. BUT it stil works perfectly after 15000 miles! It was a summit k1102, also flat taped.
Greatings from switzerland!
Why not i did a hard break in before the engine ever started all i did was prime the lifters the person who built the engine owns a machine shop everything was balanced from connecting rods to the crank on up cuts down on vibration i have a 2000 jeep inline 6 putting out 400 horses with a supercharger putting out 5 to 10 lbs of boost they broke in the flat tappets cam at about 2500 rpms 20 mins drained the break in oil and put in 10w30 Amsoil full synthetic google it i will not put anything else in any of my cars except Amsoil did 3 pulls on the dynamometer wide open if the engine is built right after you break in the cam your good to go. just saying
What intake is that your running, what's brand an name. Model?
@@BayouBreeze1 because this is a built 454 in a 70 chevelle.. thats why.. a cam costs $150 dollars.. the engine is nearly priceless to me
oh what a lucky he was. i hope.
sounds good and good video on breaking in a cam will need to know this when i do the 327 thanks
$15 or more for the Lucas is a tad dear. I use Howards Max ZPM at about 1/2 the price. And when I can get Valvoline VR-1 on sale, I go that route and skip the additive alltogether. And for that matter, if Lucas give you wamr fuzzies, they make a Hot Rod & Classic Car oil that needs no additive.
The trick to not sweating the timing with the first startup on a new engine is either a damper with timing tape, or a timing light with an advance function (dialback). Get the engine started, and get it immediately up to 2000 rpm. Then use the dialback function (if you don't have damper tape) or just read the advance off the timing tape (if you do have it). At 2000 rpm, ought to be around 25° BTDC. The only things you need to be worrying about are: 1. Engine temp, 2. Oil pressure, 3. Any massive leaks?, and 4. Coolant level after thermostat opening. Once the 25 minute break in is done, shut off, change oil & filter, and NOW go and properly set the timing.
Nice sounding motor. I assume 2+ years later, all is still well? Love the BB Chevy's. Built my first 427 back in '76 for a '66 Chevelle SS. Wish we had the cool parts back then that are around now ('course, back then we saved for weeks just for a new carb, so lotsa cool parts don't mean we could have afforded 'em). :)
Good vid, calm methodical, set the timing correctly and most importantly immediately shut it down to check out a problem,
👍
I think for the priming you need somebody to slowly turn the crank while you prime
Did u have to take out dinner valve springs??? Can u use synthetic oil on breakin???
A couple weeks back I bought a 327 block and heads. It will be a while before I'm at this point, but thank you for posting this! It helps me not be so nervous about it. It will be my first engine build
research the break in oils I may not have used the right oil .. some website recommended it
@@chriscraft77022 yeah I heard that some oils have detergents in them and they're really bad for the zinc. It like literally washes off the zinc instead of it absorbing into the cam. But I definitely will look into it more. Nevertheless I really appreciate your videos
I’ve never had a cam go flat.. the truth is that if the cam profiles are close to stock you are not likely to damage one.. when you run high lift hydraulic flat tappet cams with heavy springs then you are way more likely to screw a cam break in up.. I’ve built 11 small blocks and 2 big blocks
@@chriscraft77022 I totally believe you! because if you did you would change what you were doing. That's just human nature. And what you said about the cams makes sense. Luckily the cam I'm going to go with is considered a mild/ street cam. So I hopefully won't have any issues
@@DrShankenstein when i did my cam break in video there were NO videos on youtube.. not a single one.. i got the oil off a racing website.. the truth is that if it washes the zinc off.... all the lobes would fail and it would even run.. big blocks are known to have a lobe go flat in a year if you run it hard.. the cam instructions said to avoid letting the engine idle.. not DONT LET THE ENGINE IDLE.. !!!!! you will find out.. dont be fooled by the other videos that edit out all the stuff i chose not to..
Shell aviation 20/50 has a tone of zinc for old flat tapper cams I run it in my Cessna and my hot rod my car quits oh well but the Cessna not cool
Hey Chris did you use oval port heads or the Rectangle port ????
oval port ... 10:1 compression with 18cc dome pistons
Nice Deal about to do the Same thing 👍
A lot of fucking mosquitos
I'm wanting to put a new Comp Cam in my Ford F150 96 model 5.0 and I didn't know if it was worth it for the horsepower how much horsepower will I get and will the sound be good but I want it to sound good and have a lot more power taking off is their any tricks or things that will save me time installing the Cam and lifters they said I don't need to change lifters or springs is this true ? thank you Tim Smith
you are going to waste your time and money.... not worth it..
Nice got the 781 heads I see
Anyone know what to do when breaking in the engine with a fresh rebuild th400 trans attached, I want to fill the trans to proper level, but how do you do that with the engine spinning around 2k rpm?
Well. Leave it in either park neutral or neutral. Before starting, fill the trans with dexron rated oil for GM trans. It's best to change the pan gasket and oil prior. Start fresh. Fill to the cold line, warm up the engine, then shut it down when it's at operating temp. Check the trans fluid level. With the engine running, input shaft and converter all connected and bolted, check the fluid level. A trans dipstick labels cold and hot fluid levels. Since the trans isn't going to fully operate, and just stay in neutral during the break in, wait until the engine is finished. Let it idle, and check the level. As long as you have fluid, even a little bit, and cooling lines, it will be ok. You don't want the trans to overheat.
I have a Ford 69 390 rebuilt I'm working my way up to the cam break in put a dual energy 265 comp cam this be my fist cam break in ....thanks for posting
thanks for watching and try to no let the engine idle... good luck
70 chevelle car..good stuff.r
you got lucky
how? have you ever broke a cam in?
@@chriscraft77022 the general craftsmanship in the lifters is very sub par today. i have replaced 3 cams in a bbc doing everything correctly, oils, additives, removing 1 spring even did a cam dance. you can actually hear the tone when the cam starts to go flat. i swallowed the pill and went with a hydraulic roller.
i have been putting cams in engines since the 70's. the cost of going to a roller is small compared to the cost of a total rebuild. think about it. good luck chris
oh, I know.. about rollers.. big block flat tappet cams usually have a lobe fail anyway if you run them hard after a year with strong springs.. I didn’t get lucky... I could care less if the damn thing went flat ... the car is getting a roller anyway... that cam was just to get the engine running for the first time...I’m going to do videos running it hard to see how long the cam lasts
Ok so I’ve got a question. I just replaced lifters but not the cam on a flat tappet engine. Do I need to do the 2k rpm for 20 mins, or will it not matter since I still have the original cam?
that’s not something people do.. you change new cam with new lifters.. it’s probably going to fail if you run it like that...
Chris Craft I have no reason to replace my cam though. I had a couple of collapsed lifters so I simply replaced them.
Good no nonsense video. Thank you.
I would have used break in oil.
steve coleman yeah agreed but to each their own the nice thing about a roller cam tho is you don’t need to use break in oil but I don’t believe this is roller
Hey Chris I have a 350 sbc and I have a hydraulic cam and lifters. My question is what is the difference between hydraulic cams and any of the other cams? I googled it and didn't quite get much other than the way the cams touch the lifters or something. Would you be willing to do a video on it?
thats the difference... more friction and more wear on a flat tappet...
the roller cam will free up a little power and also allow for better cam profiles that cant be offered in a flat tappet.. by opening the valve faster and keeping it open longer ... in other words roller cams are what you want but they are expensive.. just look up flat tappet versus roller videos.. i personally dont know enough about cams to make a video
Chris Craft Oh ok thank you for putting that into a little bit better understand for me man. Love you videos and your chevelles!
still playing that radio.........................
sorry, those are older videos before i monitized..
Is it running today?If so,are you happy with the results?
yes, it still runs perfect... cam is fine
Chris Craft ...thanks,I believe this is one of the best no nonsense videos I've seen!
Pentagram playing in the background at 8:39 really gave this video that authentic home brew hot rod feeling
cant fight that music. had to stop video.
DISGUSTING MUSIC , WHEN SOMEONE TRYING TO EXPLAIN ..LUMP IT
Oh come on. Pussies
For how long you leave the second oil change in the engine??
500 miles
close the door on the barn , the horses have ecaped
When starting a Big Block for the first time , check for oil pressure and temperature. After that looks good , put it on the mat and rev it 4-5000 RPM for ten minutes hoping for the best. If it can take that , it will last forever.
You did a fine job young man...I like your method better ..it worked lol
If I use a roller cam, can I skip this break in?
yes
You need to shim the starter
I think you would have better off keeping the break in oil in it for 1500 miles. Then it's fully broke in. Drain it and if you seated the rings in both directions then go with Mobil 1.
You don't have to use the zink additive( that's what the molly is) at every oil change. It was actually made to use in break in only for the newer designed engines and over head cams. In a normal push rod motor the cam tunnel gets oil 2nd it goes through the mains then rod journals then to the cam tunnel. In a over head cam it doesn't get oil to the top until last. And with the needle bearing rocker arm shafts it needs not oil sooner but thinner to lubricate the needles. So to correct that tolerances got tighter and engines now all use a 5 w oil for starts ups.
What?
Great vid!