You need to insulate the pipes under the van with the gray foam pipe insulation. You need a sink p-trap. Next time you build the plumbing system, make sure you run your main lines first from front to back then splice into the main lines left and right as needed . This way you get maximum pressure and less restrictive flow with all the turns like that. I’d also install that water filter in an upward position under the sink. Props to you for using the uponor wirsbo pipe and fittings. Pex A expands 3 times its size in case of freezing so perfect application for the van. All this coming from a plumber that works with this stuff every day👍🏻
You do not need a sink p-trap for mobile applications like boats or vans where gravity takes care of the drainage. There is no chance of sewer smells if you're not connected to a sewer. Am I considering one? Yup, for insect purposes, but definitely not needed.
I do not follow. Gravity takes care of the drainage in a house just as well. The problem is what grows on the pipe past the p-trap , bacteria will eventually start to smell even if you only put clean water through the drain. We are licensed plumbers in Texas. On new construction, at the rough in stage when pipes have been under concrete for 2-3 weeks at this point, we uncover pipes to continue venting the fixtures and the water definitely smells. Now imagine that in a van after a year or so on a well used gray tank. No thank you. P trap is cheap insurance and takes 2 minutes to install.
@@andrealaphilippe5926 I have seen someone adding a vent on the drain (air admitance valve) to avoid gulping in the sink. What do you think of this technique?
AAV’s are perfectly fine . They do go bad sometimes so you just need to keep an eye on them. We use them all the time where traditional venting is not possible. They have to be accessible so you can’t put them behind walls.
Excellent video! For those doing a similar setup, make sure if you use clear vinyl as part of your drinking water system, that you use NSF food grade vinyl. If you don't, you'll get a really funky taste and smell in your water system.
My parents owned an ocean-voyage worthy sailboat. The plumbing didn’t have anything pressurized. Their was a marine grade foot-operated pedal below the sink. Worked fantastic. Marine solutions are designed to optimize reliability. I think van builders should look at these types of solutions, rather than just motorhome solutions. Also, reducing potential failure points is just good engineering. Things to consider.
There are some vans that implement the foot pump to simplify their water system, but that's not really possible if you want an indoor shower like this build. The builds that use the foot pump tend to be budget builds that leave out an indoor shower in favor of outdoor units or using public showers. If you're going to include an indoor shower that needs electric components, it makes sense to use that for your sink as well for the convenience of having a faucet that functions like a normal house faucet.
@@sarabeth3016 My parents’ sailboat had two indoor showers. They had pumps for each shower. But nothing was pressurized. The shower flow rate was controlled by the pump and not a pressurized line and a valve.
The main difference between marine and land vehicles is the fact that you might be at sea when a part breaks, and then what are you going to do? (hence the priority on longevity for certain parts in boats) Vans and RV’s are on land and 99% of the time, are near civilization. O’Savage is building vans to sell to the 1%. Having a foot-pump isn’t going to get you the $150-$200k he’s looking for. 🤙🏽
@@CrimpKeeper Perhaps you are correct. I wasn’t aware O’Savage is in business so much, and not a DIY’er. Either way, I’m sure his followers are DIY’ers and are not so interested in $150k motorhomes. For me, building a van is to make it how I want it and to know how everything works so I can fix everything. Also to make it robust and rattle free. The last thing I want is a pre-made “motorhome” van. I certainly don’t want leaking plumbing fittings. In my house, I have copper pipes that are soldered together. Having many plastic fittings that are pressurized in my van just seems like a failure waiting to happen. What a mess that would be. So I bought a pump you use when you need water. My Westphalia and my Eurovan Camper both had non-pressurized systems and electric pumps for on-demand use. I didn’t like the flow-rate (splatter) and noise of those. So I’ve opted for a high quality marine foot pump. It is an under-suggested solution on UA-cam DIY videos, but I think people might be interested and made aware of this option’s benefits.
@@swagonman o’savage is definitely building these to sell. I entirely understand where you’re coming from, but the 1% have more money than brains and people like myself and Savage know this, and want to take their money. Again, from a utility standpoint, a foot pump is the way to go for certain situations. I’ve used one for 9 months in my first van I built. It’s ok but it’s nothing to write home about. I just bought pro-pex fittings with the Milwaukee pro pex tool to install all my plumbing, and I’ll report back to you after dozens of hours of testing as to how they hold up. I’m convinced with the research I’ve done, that pex will hold up fine in these rv/camper van builds.
Every time I watch a Savage video I get pumped to start building mah van!! Can't wait and really appreciate all the videos and instructions.. and also user comments to help even further. Going down my van build rabbit hole is most definitely my happy place! Thank you!
That water heater timer is a great idea. I'm stealing that. Don't get me wrong, I'm stealing most of your ideas for my build, I just like that one the best.
Another great video. Only thing I recommend is adding a water pressure regulator. When filling water from city or a camp site, water pressure can some time be higher than that of your campervan. This can cause leak issues when water pressure is at or above 40 PSI
1. Those filters should be mounted vertically. 2. Use some hangers and route differently , you have pipes wrapping your filters etc 3. You went with a indoor tank to avoid freezing, then proceeded to run water lines through the floor and outside. Those will freeze. 4. Can that hot water tank and water pump be mounted in whatever position. Usually they have a specific orientation. 5. All those checks are totally unnecessary especially on the tank vent line. Should have a gravity water fill on the side of the van which has a vent connection built in. That vent should be uninhabited. Road debris would never make its way up that line, and you have a sediment filter and multi stage filter system of it somehow did 6. Should have a separate line t’d in for when you are hooked to city that bypasses the tank. City pressure will almost always be more pressure than that pump produces and that saves you from using your pump and battery power. Gravity feed fills tank when your off grid and you use pump. When you hook up your city fill it runs through the filters and directly to your faucet shower etc bypassing the pump. This saves your pump from needing to run, saves power, and offers redundancy in case your pump ever fails you can still hook up to city water and use your components
You could remove that little bit of vinyl tube between the pump and the accumulator (and all those right angle bends) and just run a line direct from the pump to filters. Then put a tee piece in that line and run a single pine to one side of the accumulator and simply blank off the other side of the accumulator. Water doesn't have to flow through the accumulator for it to do its job it just needs to be connected to the system! That would make your install much easier with a lot less joints for potential leaks down track.
For lack of a tri of 45 degree fittings, a 90 x 5 with a Big S curve creates a great amount of back pressure/flow resistance, water hammer when the pump turns on, vibration as unsupported and bouncing, etc. Too much "Get 'Er Done" time pressure and not enough experience/IQ.
Sweet van savage, I’m a plumber in San Francisco not far from you btw…..anyway Just a heads up that those filters being mounted sideways is going to put a lot of pressure on those threads since I believe they’re meant to be mounted vertically so I would definitely design a support to support the filters so they’re not just hanging on those threads while they’re full of water and the van is bumping around. 👊 Cheers
Hey Seven - I am using the same filters and water heater as you are and thinking through this setup. My question for you is, why would you want FILTERED water (hot or cold) for your shower? Or for your sink's cold tap for that matter (Will you do dishes with filtered water?). For my system, I am planning on piping filtered water directly to a separate faucet at the sink, while separate lines split off before the filters to feed the sink and shower's cold lines, and then of course to feed the water heater which will in turn feed hot water to both shower and faucet. By the way, I reference your videos all the time and have picked up a lot of ideas, so thanks for documenting all your work!
The reason why people opt for whole-home water filtration systems I suppose. For me, it's because your skin is one of your largest organs, and when you're showering with warm water your pours are open and will absorb whatever contaminants are coming out of that shower head. Just something to consider.
Just now watching this, July '22. The filters should have been hung vertically on the left where the accumulator is. Pump should feed the filters, that way changing the filters means very little spilled water. The accumulator should be after the filters, this helps prevent trash and junk from collecting in the accumulator, but most of all, you don't have it pushing pressure back toward the filters. I have some concern about the spare tire carrier wearing on the gray water tank. Not sure it that is an issue or not in the long run. You left out the link for the Aquor water inlet, I did find it with a search. Very neat idea and much better than trying to screw a hose onto an RV. Underneath you have pipes and wires coming out of a seal. One of the tubes passes thru the bundle of wires, which will make jacketing them with loom material or other covering difficult and not as elegant. I do want to say however, your van build is a thousand precent better than most including professional ones, and you video production is quite good, as you have it well scripted and no duhs, uhs, and such. You spit it out and move on, which is how it should be, someone can always go back and listen again if need be. Thanks very much for all your video efforts so others can learn from you.
You need to move your water tank drain ball valve into at the condition space !! If you leave it (ball valve) outside of the van it could freeze and try to freeze water line back to the fresh water because it is holding water back to the tank.By moving the ball valve inside the van 1st will keep it from freezing and 2nd it let all the water drain out of the line just like in a house up north. I hope this help you
Why? I just leave mine open in the winter. Am I missing something? The tank is under the van and the drain valve has to be on the bottom of the tank. How could you move it inside above the tank?
I am wary of mobile, pressurized water systems but looks like you have it figured out! Certainly having it contained inside the van has some benefites. But for reliability and economy I'm gonna stick with gravity everything and my trusty Rainshower which provides solar heated water. It's pressurized with the same compressor I use to top off bike and truck tires.
A HEPVO valve under sink and shower will reduce odors from gray tank burping back up through the drains. Works better than a ptrap in off road applications. Its basically a check valve.
@@OldExodus a youtuber that goes by "bussymcbusface" installed a 9v fan to help eliminate odors. It's been over a year since i watched it but if you are interested in it it's found in their bus to rv conversion videos.
Dude you crack me up, i love your energy and your videos !! They are so helpful - like seriously helpful (one of the few legit resources online) but also so entertaining
My brother always uses the pex a fittings for his plumbing jobs! They are much more popular now and sold in every home depot and lowes stores! I plan on using pexA on my own van build
Don't forget the vent for the drain, under the sink is a good place for it. They make a vent that does not let grey tank smells up and it dosn't need to vent up to the roof, just have it cap off under the counter top. CHEERS Steve h.
I'm one of the two girls watching and converted my van on my own, thanks for the shoutout 😄 I used the same flexible PVC pipe to my grey water tank, works great! I noticed you didn't put a trap in underneath the sink, aren't you worried about smells? I have the Reginox Panama space saving syphon which I'm very pleased with. Easy to install, drains still fast, no smells at all and if needed easy to clean. Looking forward to your next video!
You seem to have a fair amount of joints and 90 degree angles that are all potential leak points. There must be a way to bend Pex tubing and eliminate several 90 degree joints...just saying. Yes I know there are space restraints! Your videos are fantastic and I am amazed at the amount of detail! Thanks for sharing!
damn brah. i have been watching RV, schoolie conversion since covid 19. and by far, your channel is the top. i don' come up any comparable channel for real.
Vanlife and sleeping outdoors is the only thing I know and truly love with all my heart ❤. Be a minimalistic Nomad and help change the world and your life!!!
Although the pump is "Self-priming to six vertical feet", it's better to have it as low as possible. This will allow more discharge pressure. For pumps that are not self-priming, they definitely should be low to allow use of the whole tank volume.
I'd add a UV filter after the sediment ones and also this connection between the pump and the accumulator tank will always be your weakest link. Offroading will make it loose and you'll get leaks there. Ask me how I know :) Best option is to look for pump and tank that have threaded connections.
For everyone using this as a guideline for their own built: Make sure to get a p-trap, which is the little elbow shaped pipe right between the sink and the rest of the grey water system. So what is the purpose of a P-Trap? ... Plumbing codes require a P-trap be installed anywhere there is an open drain line that expels wastewater into a drain waste-vent system. The P-trap traps solids that can clog the drain or sewer line and most importantly for Vanlife!!! the P-trap stops sewer gases from backing into your home/van through the drain line. And trust me grey water can get extremely smelly! Other than that same thoughts on the pipes @jeremyward already said it and please do not ever install water filters horizontally! You will regret it later, itll be such a mess, hope you see these comments mate :) Cheers
Thank you for sharing your journey with me. I'm on mine and haven't begin to start the water system, but I'm learning lots, especially using a box cutter. Ouch! I personally think that there will serious drain issues because of the distance from entry to exit, and the drain is not gradual whereas the water has a long horizontal travel and dips.
HepVo: Thinking same thing. Grey tanks can get stinky and there is no p-trap to keep the stink from coming up the sink drain. Since this is his second van he may have a solution for that or sink stopper. Also needs to prevent water sloshing from full grey tank into the shower pan. Doubt the grey tank will ever get that full or stinky though given the electric ball valve setup.
I’d consider insulating the water pipes under the van to reduce freeze risk? Also I think accumulator tanks should be installed vertically. But it’s a great build!
1) I do not envy you when you go to change those filters 😅 2) Your sink drain doesn't have a trap to prevent smells. Which will probably be fine, just pointing it out.
@The Osborns Indeed. I don't have my filters mounted at all. I only use filtered water and drinking water to fill my tank, therefore my tank is always clean. Saves space in my van as well.
Finally firing up for plumbing in about two weeks (yeah, December is a great time to do water. . . NOT. ) this is SO much easier than your old plumbing vid - the Umpanor tool is going to choke me cost-wise this late in the build, but I think I'm going for it. . . . looks easier. . . . also excellent advice on gray water, although I'm keeping mine to a five gallon water carrier under the sink since the only shower will be out the back door. . . . also - very cool filling hardware. . . .
Such an informative video breaking down the whole system. You made it look manageable. Wondering if a trap is necessary for sink and shower? I noticed you did not use one, so there must be a reason😁
Really great video. I see one issue though. You have the water tank inside the van to prevent freezing. But you have both water pipes to the sink on the outside. These pipes will freeze in cold areas. You should have kept them inside, or you need to insulate them heavily. This would also help that they are not damaged while driving over debris.
The Isotemp water heater. Great idea with the timer btw, but are you not considering connecting it up to the engine coolant system? Making hot water whilst driving makes a lot of sense to me. Ben 🇬🇧
I second this idea. This will save quite a bit of battery power when you can simply heat the water when driving vs. heat with the isotherm heating rod.
Great job, but if this is going to be a running from Zombies Apocalyptic Vehicle, you're going to need a gravity fill inlet. When you're out in the middle of nowhere with your garden hose and no spigot....just a thought.
How about putting your drain valve inside the van... as it is now you will collect water in the tube before and in the valve that can still freeze. So you wont be able to drain in frozen weather. As for the filters I have the same question... don't these have to be installed vertical for a good functioning system? Other thing is as mentioned already... when you need to service them you may spill water all over the place. I love these video series you make and the way you try to cover and discuss all parts of the conversion. As you are learning, I am too. Thanks :) 👍
Wish my local Ace Hardware sold the expansion system. I used crimp, and it works fine, but tough getting into tight areas. Your work is so nice and clean.
Perfection as always!!! Super detail 🤙. Question? The way the filters are mounted are you concerned when they’re full of water that they’re at risk of cracking especially when driving... Thanks for sharing 🤙
Enjoying your build! Just a bump on several requests for suppliers of check valves, and wire/hose boots - would be great if you can add those to your supply list. Many thanks!
Each to their own. In every van build video I've watched, that includes a manual pump, I come away with an impression of simple, functional, cost-effective, and yet tedious. When I'm ready to build mine, I'll use an electric pump and accept the risks with the benefits.
With the leak off the top of the accumulator - why not just move the vertical mounting bar that the pump and accumulator are mounted to over about a half inch or whatever? You could have taken that lateral stress off the Pex line/collars and gotten a more straight run to the filter inlet.
young man, i'm sorry, but this might and probably is the very Best video on a van build. i'm sure had you been at Walter Reed medical facility for a year or more as i was, you would be moved to mediocrity, but instead you excelled well.
Good stuff, but I am really surprised that you did not use a HepVo drain valve at the sink and even the shower to eliminate sewage gases and to get a much better set of fittings (I don't like all the black hub couplings screwed down over the barbed fittings)
From a total newbie... I plan to retire with the next 7 years and I'm preparing for vanlife soon after. I'm also new to your channel but need more comprehensive (I'll just say it, a slower version) and step by step instructions. Do you offer such instruction? Thanks for what you have done those far! LV
Wow well done, I saw too things , I would as something like a stainless steel bock under the filters , then the water can drain in there and a cut of bevor and after the filter. And I’m not sure if there is smell coming out of the drain in your basin . Uppener wow cool
OK Seven O. Savage, I have watched your Plumbing video a couple times and I am not seeing either a gravity feed or some sort of pressure relief for your tank (Your water fill goes directly to the tank). Many tanks require a diverted city water to avoid causing leaks in the tank by over pressurizing them. It appears with your system you are pressurizing your tank when you stay connected to a spigot water supply such as a house or a campground. Did I miss something in your video where you have a tank pressure relief or something creative? Why not gravity fill your tank and divert your city water directly to your fixtures when connected to city? We look forward to your response! Thanks, Team Off-Road Vanning
Hey les, I do have a tank vent/overfill port which ends up being connected to the two-way check valves outside of the van. As for city water, I never plan on using it
Hiyas, I’ve got the clear source filter in the UK I want to put it in line with the plumbing system even though they recommend using it externally before the water goes into the tank. How is it working out being part of the plumbing system? Also finding it hard to find attachments here in the UK as it’s American GHT fittings. I need it to go to 12mm or 15mm… what fittings do you use and do you have a link for it! Thanks loving the videos so helpful
You need to insulate the pipes under the van with the gray foam pipe insulation.
You need a sink p-trap.
Next time you build the plumbing system, make sure you run your main lines first from front to back then splice into the main lines left and right as needed . This way you get maximum pressure and less restrictive flow with all the turns like that.
I’d also install that water filter in an upward position under the sink.
Props to you for using the uponor wirsbo pipe and fittings. Pex A expands 3 times its size in case of freezing so perfect application for the van.
All this coming from a plumber that works with this stuff every day👍🏻
You do not need a sink p-trap for mobile applications like boats or vans where gravity takes care of the drainage. There is no chance of sewer smells if you're not connected to a sewer.
Am I considering one? Yup, for insect purposes, but definitely not needed.
I do not follow. Gravity takes care of the drainage in a house just as well. The problem is what grows on the pipe past the p-trap , bacteria will eventually start to smell even if you only put clean water through the drain.
We are licensed plumbers in Texas. On new construction, at the rough in stage when pipes have been under concrete for 2-3 weeks at this point, we uncover pipes to continue venting the fixtures and the water definitely smells.
Now imagine that in a van after a year or so on a well used gray tank.
No thank you. P trap is cheap insurance and takes 2 minutes to install.
@@andrealaphilippe5926 do you recommend your customers put some hydrogen peroxide down the drains. it seems to work well for me.
@@andrealaphilippe5926 I have seen someone adding a vent on the drain (air admitance valve) to avoid gulping in the sink. What do you think of this technique?
AAV’s are perfectly fine . They do go bad sometimes so you just need to keep an eye on them.
We use them all the time where traditional venting is not possible.
They have to be accessible so you can’t put them behind walls.
Excellent video! For those doing a similar setup, make sure if you use clear vinyl as part of your drinking water system, that you use NSF food grade vinyl. If you don't, you'll get a really funky taste and smell in your water system.
Yours is the easiest to understand video on how the loop works. Great job, I appreciate it.
My parents owned an ocean-voyage worthy sailboat. The plumbing didn’t have anything pressurized. Their was a marine grade foot-operated pedal below the sink. Worked fantastic. Marine solutions are designed to optimize reliability. I think van builders should look at these types of solutions, rather than just motorhome solutions. Also, reducing potential failure points is just good engineering. Things to consider.
There are some vans that implement the foot pump to simplify their water system, but that's not really possible if you want an indoor shower like this build. The builds that use the foot pump tend to be budget builds that leave out an indoor shower in favor of outdoor units or using public showers. If you're going to include an indoor shower that needs electric components, it makes sense to use that for your sink as well for the convenience of having a faucet that functions like a normal house faucet.
@@sarabeth3016 My parents’ sailboat had two indoor showers. They had pumps for each shower. But nothing was pressurized. The shower flow rate was controlled by the pump and not a pressurized line and a valve.
The main difference between marine and land vehicles is the fact that you might be at sea when a part breaks, and then what are you going to do? (hence the priority on longevity for certain parts in boats) Vans and RV’s are on land and 99% of the time, are near civilization. O’Savage is building vans to sell to the 1%. Having a foot-pump isn’t going to get you the $150-$200k he’s looking for. 🤙🏽
@@CrimpKeeper Perhaps you are correct. I wasn’t aware O’Savage is in business so much, and not a DIY’er. Either way, I’m sure his followers are DIY’ers and are not so interested in $150k motorhomes. For me, building a van is to make it how I want it and to know how everything works so I can fix everything. Also to make it robust and rattle free. The last thing I want is a pre-made “motorhome” van. I certainly don’t want leaking plumbing fittings. In my house, I have copper pipes that are soldered together. Having many plastic fittings that are pressurized in my van just seems like a failure waiting to happen. What a mess that would be. So I bought a pump you use when you need water. My Westphalia and my Eurovan Camper both had non-pressurized systems and electric pumps for on-demand use. I didn’t like the flow-rate (splatter) and noise of those. So I’ve opted for a high quality marine foot pump. It is an under-suggested solution on UA-cam DIY videos, but I think people might be interested and made aware of this option’s benefits.
@@swagonman o’savage is definitely building these to sell. I entirely understand where you’re coming from, but the 1% have more money than brains and people like myself and Savage know this, and want to take their money. Again, from a utility standpoint, a foot pump is the way to go for certain situations. I’ve used one for 9 months in my first van I built. It’s ok but it’s nothing to write home about. I just bought pro-pex fittings with the Milwaukee pro pex tool to install all my plumbing, and I’ll report back to you after dozens of hours of testing as to how they hold up. I’m convinced with the research I’ve done, that pex will hold up fine in these rv/camper van builds.
Thanks for the shout out to the two women who watch your channel - yay!
Make that 3 women!!! 67 yr old women that's building a lovely sprinter. See you on the road.
Jan
me 4!
Holla
@@beachbum200009 You go lady! And, please, tell my spouse that I'm NOT too old at 76 to build a van.
@@jeffreywalker-f1o Never to old!! I'll be 71 in Sept. Good luck to you.
Such a joy learning and watching SOS content. Team Savage.
Every time I watch a Savage video I get pumped to start building mah van!! Can't wait and really appreciate all the videos and instructions.. and also user comments to help even further. Going down my van build rabbit hole is most definitely my happy place! Thank you!
That water heater timer is a great idea. I'm stealing that. Don't get me wrong, I'm stealing most of your ideas for my build, I just like that one the best.
Just don't steal the horizontal filters idea. Water/gunk is gonna go everywhere when those need changing.
@@pau1phi11ips You're a hero to me for doing this build so I can learn these things the easy way.
The timer is a great idea
Any issue with mounting the isotherm heater horizontally?
just started a complete overhaul of a 1970's old caravan.......i love this video...you are a champion...thank you for this
Bad ass!
Another great video. Only thing I recommend is adding a water pressure regulator. When filling water from city or a camp site, water pressure can some time be higher than that of your campervan. This can cause leak issues when water pressure is at or above 40 PSI
True. One should be in the drawer next to the proprietary water filling tube. (Don't loose that. Ever.)
1. Those filters should be mounted vertically.
2. Use some hangers and route differently , you have pipes wrapping your filters etc
3. You went with a indoor tank to avoid freezing, then proceeded to run water lines through the floor and outside. Those will freeze.
4. Can that hot water tank and water pump be mounted in whatever position. Usually they have a specific orientation.
5. All those checks are totally unnecessary especially on the tank vent line. Should have a gravity water fill on the side of the van which has a vent connection built in. That vent should be uninhabited. Road debris would never make its way up that line, and you have a sediment filter and multi stage filter system of it somehow did
6. Should have a separate line t’d in for when you are hooked to city that bypasses the tank. City pressure will almost always be more pressure than that pump produces and that saves you from using your pump and battery power. Gravity feed fills tank when your off grid and you use pump. When you hook up your city fill it runs through the filters and directly to your faucet shower etc bypassing the pump. This saves your pump from needing to run, saves power, and offers redundancy in case your pump ever fails you can still hook up to city water and use your components
Thank you !
City pressure here is 80 PSI. Protect your tank from that with a pressure reducer fitting.
Smart observations.
thank you. was going absolutely insane watching this; as you noted. good constructive critcism
Don't forget about no p-trap on the sink. Even if it is just gray water, it's eventually going to allow some foul smells.coming up the sink
You could remove that little bit of vinyl tube between the pump and the accumulator (and all those right angle bends) and just run a line direct from the pump to filters. Then put a tee piece in that line and run a single pine to one side of the accumulator and simply blank off the other side of the accumulator. Water doesn't have to flow through the accumulator for it to do its job it just needs to be connected to the system! That would make your install much easier with a lot less joints for potential leaks down track.
For lack of a tri of 45 degree fittings, a 90 x 5 with a Big S curve creates a great amount of back pressure/flow resistance, water hammer when the pump turns on, vibration as unsupported and bouncing, etc. Too much "Get 'Er Done" time pressure and not enough experience/IQ.
I wanted to upgrade the plumbing in my caravan, this video cameout exactly as I needed it
Thanks! 🤙
Thank you for making it ^_^
Sweet van savage,
I’m a plumber in San Francisco not far from you btw…..anyway Just a heads up that those filters being mounted sideways is going to put a lot of pressure on those threads since I believe they’re meant to be mounted vertically so I would definitely design a support to support the filters so they’re not just hanging on those threads while they’re full of water and the van is bumping around. 👊
Cheers
Kudos to you. Detailed info on your build out process. I’m gonna enjoy watching your whole series.
Hey Seven - I am using the same filters and water heater as you are and thinking through this setup. My question for you is, why would you want FILTERED water (hot or cold) for your shower? Or for your sink's cold tap for that matter (Will you do dishes with filtered water?). For my system, I am planning on piping filtered water directly to a separate faucet at the sink, while separate lines split off before the filters to feed the sink and shower's cold lines, and then of course to feed the water heater which will in turn feed hot water to both shower and faucet. By the way, I reference your videos all the time and have picked up a lot of ideas, so thanks for documenting all your work!
Or filter only the sink's drinking faucet.
The reason why people opt for whole-home water filtration systems I suppose. For me, it's because your skin is one of your largest organs, and when you're showering with warm water your pours are open and will absorb whatever contaminants are coming out of that shower head. Just something to consider.
Just now watching this, July '22. The filters should have been hung vertically on the left where the accumulator is. Pump should feed the filters, that way changing the filters means very little spilled water. The accumulator should be after the filters, this helps prevent trash and junk from collecting in the accumulator, but most of all, you don't have it pushing pressure back toward the filters. I have some concern about the spare tire carrier wearing on the gray water tank. Not sure it that is an issue or not in the long run. You left out the link for the Aquor water inlet, I did find it with a search. Very neat idea and much better than trying to screw a hose onto an RV. Underneath you have pipes and wires coming out of a seal. One of the tubes passes thru the bundle of wires, which will make jacketing them with loom material or other covering difficult and not as elegant. I do want to say however, your van build is a thousand precent better than most including professional ones, and you video production is quite good, as you have it well scripted and no duhs, uhs, and such. You spit it out and move on, which is how it should be, someone can always go back and listen again if need be. Thanks very much for all your video efforts so others can learn from you.
You need to move your water tank drain ball valve into at the condition space !! If you leave it (ball valve) outside of the van it could freeze and try to freeze water line back to the fresh water because it is holding water back to the tank.By moving the ball valve inside the van 1st will keep it from freezing and 2nd it let all the water drain out of the line just like in a house up north. I hope this help you
Why? I just leave mine open in the winter. Am I missing something? The tank is under the van and the drain valve has to be on the bottom of the tank. How could you move it inside above the tank?
I am wary of mobile, pressurized water systems but looks like you have it figured out! Certainly having it contained inside the van has some benefites. But for reliability and economy I'm gonna stick with gravity everything and my trusty Rainshower which provides solar heated water. It's pressurized with the same compressor I use to top off bike and truck tires.
A HEPVO valve under sink and shower will reduce odors from gray tank burping back up through the drains. Works better than a ptrap in off road applications. Its basically a check valve.
What about an exhaust vent to prevent odor from the grey tank?
@@OldExodus a youtuber that goes by "bussymcbusface" installed a 9v fan to help eliminate odors. It's been over a year since i watched it but if you are interested in it it's found in their bus to rv conversion videos.
Dude you crack me up, i love your energy and your videos !! They are so helpful - like seriously helpful (one of the few legit resources online) but also so entertaining
You were so funny for your system test! 😆. Good humor!
My brother always uses the pex a fittings for his plumbing jobs! They are much more popular now and sold in every home depot and lowes stores! I plan on using pexA on my own van build
Don't forget the vent for the drain, under the sink is a good place for it. They make a vent that does not let grey tank smells up and it dosn't need to vent up to the roof, just have it cap off under the counter top. CHEERS Steve h.
Great job! I can’t wait for some winter van camping videos in sub-freezing temperatures.
That will reveal the downsides of outdoor plumbing.
I'm one of the two girls watching and converted my van on my own, thanks for the shoutout 😄 I used the same flexible PVC pipe to my grey water tank, works great! I noticed you didn't put a trap in underneath the sink, aren't you worried about smells? I have the Reginox Panama space saving syphon which I'm very pleased with. Easy to install, drains still fast, no smells at all and if needed easy to clean. Looking forward to your next video!
I noticed this too, but I think there may be a trap under the van
not a "trap' trap, but the way the hose is run makes a trap
Me three!!!!!! Thanks for all the guidance!
I am a girl too. There must be more girls watching than just us two.
@@4149natalie 🤣
You seem to have a fair amount of joints and 90 degree angles that are all potential leak points. There must be a way to bend Pex tubing and eliminate several 90 degree joints...just saying. Yes I know there are space restraints! Your videos are fantastic and I am amazed at the amount of detail! Thanks for sharing!
Superb video man! Well done 👍🏼
This has been a very detailed video, truly appreciated this. Thanks
damn brah. i have been watching RV, schoolie conversion since covid 19. and by far, your channel is the top. i don' come up any comparable channel for real.
Thank you!
Vanlife and sleeping outdoors is the only thing I know and truly love with all my heart ❤.
Be a minimalistic Nomad and help change the world and your life!!!
That plumbing system is clean AF.
You make the best videos and easiest to follow
Although the pump is "Self-priming to six vertical feet", it's better to have it as low as possible. This will allow more discharge pressure. For pumps that are not self-priming, they definitely should be low to allow use of the whole tank volume.
Excellent how to guide. Very much appreciated.
Another great and informative video! 🏆
Thank you 🤙
This channel is so underrated, thanks for all the advices bro
Thank you!
I’m going to build a 26 ft box truck and your video are like builder manual in smaller scale “Thank you”!
I am so grateful to you! I was not aware of these products, it helps a ton.
By far the best van build that I've seen. Huge props to you my friend.
Blue monster tape is freaking amazing. Great choice!
Have you thought about adding a gravity fill option for the fresh water tank? This would be useful if you carried some extra jugs of water.
@The Osborns not very “stealthy” when everyone in the world knows what you got going on in vans and Sprinters
I'd add a UV filter after the sediment ones and also this connection between the pump and the accumulator tank will always be your weakest link. Offroading will make it loose and you'll get leaks there. Ask me how I know :) Best option is to look for pump and tank that have threaded connections.
For everyone using this as a guideline for their own built:
Make sure to get a p-trap, which is the little elbow shaped pipe right between the sink and the rest of the grey water system. So what is the purpose of a P-Trap? ... Plumbing codes require a P-trap be installed anywhere there is an open drain line that expels wastewater into a drain waste-vent system. The P-trap traps solids that can clog the drain or sewer line and most importantly for Vanlife!!! the P-trap stops sewer gases from backing into your home/van through the drain line. And trust me grey water can get extremely smelly!
Other than that same thoughts on the pipes @jeremyward already said it and please do not ever install water filters horizontally! You will regret it later, itll be such a mess, hope you see these comments mate :)
Cheers
Go Methane!
Thank you for sharing your journey with me. I'm on mine and haven't begin to start the water system, but I'm learning lots, especially using a box cutter. Ouch! I personally think that there will serious drain issues because of the distance from entry to exit, and the drain is not gradual whereas the water has a long horizontal travel and dips.
HepVo valves/drains for the sink and shower.
HepVo: Thinking same thing. Grey tanks can get stinky and there is no p-trap to keep the stink from coming up the sink drain.
Since this is his second van he may have a solution for that or sink stopper.
Also needs to prevent water sloshing from full grey tank into the shower pan.
Doubt the grey tank will ever get that full or stinky though given the electric ball valve setup.
HepVo is a must. Looked like there was room for this in his build.
The waste lines for the sink and shower drain will drain freely if you use a vent. Studer vents work great.
love your videos you do a very great job on videos and van work transformation videos. awesome!!
I’d consider insulating the water pipes under the van to reduce freeze risk? Also I think accumulator tanks should be installed vertically. But it’s a great build!
Great video. Can you post the link to the water inlet fill valve? I have been looking for something like this.
1) I do not envy you when you go to change those filters 😅
2) Your sink drain doesn't have a trap to prevent smells. Which will probably be fine, just pointing it out.
@The Osborns Indeed. I don't have my filters mounted at all. I only use filtered water and drinking water to fill my tank, therefore my tank is always clean. Saves space in my van as well.
Lack of p trap means bad bad smells
.
Finally firing up for plumbing in about two weeks (yeah, December is a great time to do water. . . NOT. ) this is SO much easier than your old plumbing vid - the Umpanor tool is going to choke me cost-wise this late in the build, but I think I'm going for it. . . . looks easier. . . . also excellent advice on gray water, although I'm keeping mine to a five gallon water carrier under the sink since the only shower will be out the back door. . . . also - very cool filling hardware. . . .
Try replacing a broken Umanor fitting after a day of offroading in the middle of nowhere. Try to find a $300 pipe fiting pump in Baja Ca.
Such an informative video breaking down the whole system. You made it look manageable. Wondering if a trap is necessary for sink and shower? I noticed you did not use one, so there must be a reason😁
The grey water tank is vented.
great video! tons of useful information! thanks for sharing
Really great video. I see one issue though. You have the water tank inside the van to prevent freezing. But you have both water pipes to the sink on the outside. These pipes will freeze in cold areas. You should have kept them inside, or you need to insulate them heavily. This would also help that they are not damaged while driving over debris.
I don't think he wanna go to cold regions like you gotta do in europe, where every place is cold
The Isotemp water heater. Great idea with the timer btw, but are you not considering connecting it up to the engine coolant system? Making hot water whilst driving makes a lot of sense to me. Ben 🇬🇧
I second this idea. This will save quite a bit of battery power when you can simply heat the water when driving vs. heat with the isotherm heating rod.
Under your sink why didn’t you use a p trap? Do you have issues with your grey water smelling?
Great job, but if this is going to be a running from Zombies Apocalyptic Vehicle, you're going to need a gravity fill inlet. When you're out in the middle of nowhere with your garden hose and no spigot....just a thought.
I am a Plumber
Great job.Love the video.
I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS! LEARNING A LOT! THANK YOU THANK YOU AGAIN!!!!
How about putting your drain valve inside the van... as it is now you will collect water in the tube before and in the valve that can still freeze. So you wont be able to drain in frozen weather. As for the filters I have the same question... don't these have to be installed vertical for a good functioning system? Other thing is as mentioned already... when you need to service them you may spill water all over the place. I love these video series you make and the way you try to cover and discuss all parts of the conversion. As you are learning, I am too. Thanks :) 👍
I see you whippen out that pliny
Wish my local Ace Hardware sold the expansion system. I used crimp, and it works fine, but tough getting into tight areas. Your work is so nice and clean.
I agree, that’s the worst part about propex is that it hasn’t caught on yet. My bet is that this is the most popular plumbing system in 5-10 years!
@@seven_o_savage I could have saved hours, maybe days. Thank you for this vid.
Nice system. How do you catch the water when changing the 3-stage filter elements?
Another great video! Thank you
checkvalues for the win🙌
Right on! Thanks so much man, this is so helpful!
Perfection as always!!! Super detail 🤙. Question? The way the filters are mounted are you concerned when they’re full of water that they’re at risk of cracking especially when driving... Thanks for sharing 🤙
Why didn't you add any type of p-trap to your grey water drain?
HepVo is the way to go
I'm guessing that he didn't know that it was a good idea to do so.
Perfect timing, gearing up to do my plumbing soon...
🤙
Enjoying your build!
Just a bump on several requests for suppliers of check valves, and wire/hose boots - would be great if you can add those to your supply list. Many thanks!
Nice... I wish you would have talked more about the water heater though, why you selected that model and what the electrical is related to it
Each to their own. In every van build video I've watched, that includes a manual pump, I come away with an impression of simple, functional, cost-effective, and yet tedious. When I'm ready to build mine, I'll use an electric pump and accept the risks with the benefits.
Pliney the Elder makes it all good!
NWConversions sells this for $50 less by the way. About to start my water system install soon! Thanks for the video
You should add an air admittance valve (Studor vent) on inlet side of the drain trap.
With the leak off the top of the accumulator - why not just move the vertical mounting bar that the pump and accumulator are mounted to over about a half inch or whatever? You could have taken that lateral stress off the Pex line/collars and gotten a more straight run to the filter inlet.
Clear tubing tends to continue to bend & harden and may pinch off your vent line over time
Lol! Am I one of the two? Probably not but you pulled me out of lurking and into commenting.
you might want to support those water filters on the and especially offloading?
Awesome knowledge
If you are going to survive the "Zombie Apocalypse", you need some kind of Zombie shredder on the front. Like a wood chipper attachment.😆 🧟♀
young man, i'm sorry, but this might and probably is the very Best video on a van build.
i'm sure had you been at Walter Reed medical facility for a year or more as i was, you would be moved to mediocrity, but instead you excelled well.
You need to move that gray water ball valve switch to the dashboard and use it to discourage tailgaters.
LOL! Love it!
Excellent video!! quelle est la grandeur de la vanne électrique US Solid pour l'eau grise?
Merci!
Good stuff, but I am really surprised that you did not use a HepVo drain valve at the sink and even the shower to eliminate sewage gases and to get a much better set of fittings (I don't like all the black hub couplings screwed down over the barbed fittings)
Looks like an obvious correction for the remodel list. Plumbing is not Steve's forte.
running the plumbing lines under the van are subject to freezing even though you have the tank inside the van
Great part about propex is that it’s virtually freeze proof. If I do winter camping I’ll probably add some heat tape.
@@seven_o_savage it isn't freeze proof. It is expandable up to 1.5 times it's original size so frozen temps won't damage it as easily.
From a total newbie...
I plan to retire with the next 7 years and I'm preparing for vanlife soon after. I'm also new to your channel but need more comprehensive (I'll just say it, a slower version) and step by step instructions. Do you offer such instruction? Thanks for what you have done those far! LV
Thanks for all the video's and how to. We are going to start building our van soon. Cant wait to start. Do you plan on building more vans?
Wow well done, I saw too things , I would as something like a stainless steel bock under the filters , then the water can drain in there and a cut of bevor and after the filter. And I’m not sure if there is smell coming out of the drain in your basin . Uppener wow cool
OK Seven O. Savage, I have watched your Plumbing video a couple times and I am not seeing either a gravity feed or some sort of pressure relief for your tank (Your water fill goes directly to the tank). Many tanks require a diverted city water to avoid causing leaks in the tank by over pressurizing them. It appears with your system you are pressurizing your tank when you stay connected to a spigot water supply such as a house or a campground. Did I miss something in your video where you have a tank pressure relief or something creative? Why not gravity fill your tank and divert your city water directly to your fixtures when connected to city? We look forward to your response! Thanks, Team Off-Road Vanning
Hey les, I do have a tank vent/overfill port which ends up being connected to the two-way check valves outside of the van. As for city water, I never plan on using it
I think I’d elect to put the fresh water drain valve inside to prevent freezing.
Thank You so MUCH!😁
Heck yeah! Female builder here! :)
No P-trap? Gonna STINK!!
Very good video i will do the same in myvtrailer but with guide tracks on the wall -What was the solenoid you used for the 12v motor
Dump ball valve should be interior. As it is you may have freezing issues ahead of the ball valve as it will be full of water and exterior to the van
Hey great video! Love how you break everything down. Great stuff bro. Question Where is the link for the fresh water fill inlet?
Hiyas, I’ve got the clear source filter in the UK I want to put it in line with the plumbing system even though they recommend using it externally before the water goes into the tank. How is it working out being part of the plumbing system? Also finding it hard to find attachments here in the UK as it’s American GHT fittings. I need it to go to 12mm or 15mm… what fittings do you use and do you have a link for it! Thanks loving the videos so helpful
Mounting water filters horizontally may be troublesome. Nice job on the Van.