Great build! You may want to buy some lower 50 or 75 amp fuses for your terminal fuse blocks instead of those 300 amp ones. Since you have 6 batteries in parallel the amp draw is evenly distributed between each battery, that means your 300 amp fuses won't blow until your entire bank is pulling 1800+ amps from a dead short, that's still plenty of power to melt a wrench accidentally laid across your battery terminals.
Wow! You just blew me away with your practical and easy-to-follow instructions. I’m a mechanical engineer and I understand all of this on paper but don’t have the practical knowledge to tackle this daunting job…until now!! Thank you so much for sharing!!
Maybe you can answer my question 🙋🏻♀️. I purchased the same lithium batteries from Renogy 170ah 12V and they come with size 1/2” M13 stud terminals. The blue sea fuse block terminal size are 5/16” M8. How did he get them to fit? Can the terminal stud on the battery be changed? Blue sea does not make fuse blocks with terminal size M13
Thank you for making these electrical videos. I keep finding videos that say they explain how to build an electrical system that turn out to only be time lapses of the work with very little explanation of what is being done or why certain decisions were made. Thank you so much for taking the time and energy to put out videos about the 'less fun' parts of building a camper van (electrical, plumbing, insulation, etc.) that might not have as much value as far as bringing in viewers like a flashy van tour might but can make these aspects of a build so much easier for newbies who are just trying to find easy to consume information about tougher aspects of a build.
Although the rules for 240VAC installation are different here in Oz, this was probably the clearest vlog on the whole electrical approach I have seen. Nice work.
SOS, Your videos have me so hyped to start my build. You may also want to test the microwave at the same time as the Weboost to ensure you don't need a little shielding to prevent the microwave from interfering with the cell signal through the antenna cables.
16:06 Put the fuse in after the cable ;). I guess your main switch may have been isolated but best practise not to install the fuse till cable is in. Great video man! Blue sea is great stuff. I tried the amazon Chinese fuses before. They tripped 50amps lower than their rated load and got very warm.
I watched many videos regarding the electric/solar system and yours sir is by far the best explained video ever. Right down to the crimping and connections needed. Thank you. I’ll be plugging your video in all my van groups.
It's worth considering going 24v with this system. You get more reasonable wire gauge and fuse capacities, higher efficiency/wattage from inverters and solar charge controllers, etc. 24v to 12v buck converters are cheap and many 12v devices don't like to see voltages on the high or low side of 12v, so adding a regulated buck converter can save you some headaches from fans and fridges that do better with a regulated 12v supply, though many will accept 24v. You seem to not mind redoing things so maybe give it a shot if you want to see if it's an improvement :)
I'm going 900ah. I was going to go 24v except the fact no one makes a 3000w inverter/charger for less then $4000 the money saved on wiring and charge controller was heavily outweighed by that one piece. Hence I will be going 12v since the renogy 3000w inverter charger is only $800
Love your channel! Another good use for a relay would be to act as an automatic switch. You can have your dc to dc charger turn on without having to flip a switch if You find a wire that only turns on when your ignition is in the run position.
So kick-ass!!! I really appreciate your putting up the detailed version!! Hell with the right softstart you can probably even power AC with this puppy!! I'm so impressed!!!👍
The directions for that inverter says not to mount it with the vent holes on top. I'm sure you have that figured out but I thought I'd mention it anyway at the risk of sounding like an annoying DIY troll
So your inverter is your automatic transfer switch? Your build is killer man. I'm a few steps behind you on my build. Thanks so much for making such great content. Your channel and OurKaravan are my two favorites by far.
The first fuse you connected directly off the main 'live' cable from the batteries goes as close to the batteries as possible. It is protecting the cable - stop it melting/burning and setting your van on fire. think about how you wire a house - the fuses go before the cable runs - they are not fitted inside the sockets and switches (exceptions do occur but that's another story)
Fantastic video mate! Really de-mystifies how this stuff works. Not going to lie though, running cables (or anything) under the van absolutely terrifies me!
This was so clear and helpful! The level of detail you included is next level!! I'm really intrigued by the cables running under the van, I don't think I've ever seen that before but it makes a lot of sense This was a great second part, thank you!
Yeah, me too. I’d be afraid (a) to drill holes in the bottom of the van and (b) that the wires would get damaged under the van. Is there any reason not to run all the wires inside the van, perhaps in an accessible channel in the floor or ceiling?
Great stuff, found tons of useful information on this video, just want to point that you giving tons of misinformation as well. The 60A of charge will be distributed between all 6 batteries (10A per battery), each battery is rated for 85A charge. Next, the relays from your lights as an example of how it works are rated for 40A max, so you can not use examples as 300A. Next, all your small connectors have plastic around them, this plastic is the same as a shrink tube, you have to use your heat gun to secure the connectors, so you will not be able to pull it out. Next, just a simple piece of advice on your manual switch to charge your batteries from the alternator, this is not the best solution, because at least ones you will forget to switch it off and because the alternator is directly connected to your battery will kill your sprinter"s AGM battery. The simple solution to use power from your ignition circuit to energize a solenoid-switch via a 12v relay . In this case the power from your alternator will automatically kick in as the engine is started and it will cut the power when the engine is off. Keep up the good work. This project is very inspiring!
Maybe I missed a video, but i'd love to see a detailed video and diagram for the 80/20 part of the battery area setup... You have a well thought out and sized physical space over that wheel well and a diagram with links and dimensions for all the 80/20 things would be awesome!! Just like the electrical I'm pretty sure I could think it all through from scratch if I clubbed myself in the face long enough, but what you created with the electrical diagram and parts links was mint, and i'd love to see it for that 80/20 battery\electrical area!!! Feed me parts and dimensions and i'll click on and order all of the affiliate inks, lol! Nice job, as always!
Great video, I hope you got around to adding a grommet on the 240v out cable where it runs through the sheet metal on the top of the inverter. It will gradually wear due to vibrations
Thank you so much for these detailed videos. Really appreciate your time and efforts to find the time to document the whole process in such detail. All the best from The Netherlands! 😊👍🏻
Dude I agree - taking something from concept, to planning, to implementation and iteration is friggin fulfilling. Would love to know more about your background and training. Seen most of your videos and I appreciate how motivated you remains to create and construct. Cheers from Portland, Oregon.
They say that so the fan doesn’t get blocked. I was told on a phone call a few weeks ago to Renogy to just place a shelf above to prevent blockage and it’s OK.
@Seven O Savage - I'm a specialist in Solar Technics for houses and vans in all forms. I have to say very well done. There are alwyas some things which will come up but all little things are spotted and named. Respect for it !!! At 19:41 - don't forget to insulate it around the aluminum plate with some water resistanr stuff
No way man the sub panel was an obvious but brilliant idea I never thought of! I installed all my panels in the back of my van and had to upsize a lot of wires since the runs were so long. This would have saved a ton of money in wiring and a whole lot of headache.
Hi, thanks for the content. A couple of questions. Why did you decide to stay with 12v? If you were to use 24v/48v and a cheap step down for the 12v stuff that would have saved you a ton of money in cabling, Charge controller, losses, etc. And with regards to the cabling, why not just use conduit in the inside of the van and if you need to run more cables you just run them throught the conduit, no need to take anything down. Even better, just run extra cables on each destination in case you need to add more appliances. I think drilling 2 holes in the bottom of your van is not really necessary.
Exactly! No tape, needs to add the thickest rubber strip that will fit. Maybe cut a 1.5 inch pvc pipe lengthwise. But insulate that Aluminum or your gonna have a fire.
Excellent vid as usual! I live 20 minutes from Baja Designs and have been a very happy customer over 15 years. YES, their lights are simply the best. Step one to installing them: Throw their harness right in the trash, and make your own! :)
Amazing videos. they help so much. Even though I am an electronic technician, your video's are really helpful... My favorite van builder. I can't wait to build mine in a couple years.... thanks Seven!
Great build, my is just a few steps behind and also a 4x4 sprinter. I am using all redarc systems and running two dc to dc chargers side by side that will provide 80 amps charge to the battery bank. So I was a little worried when you said 50amps is max 😳 I specifically got largest alternator option (250 amps) to run both dc to dc chargers. Can you please advise where you heard this limit from 🙏 oh and let me offer something back. I would highly recommend that you run a starter battery isolator connected to the ignition that will only allow dc to dc charger to operate whilst the ignition is on. This will prevent your starter battery being drawn down if you forget to press the switch.
How did you attach the components (MPPT, Inverter, kill switch) to the 8020? Specifically which types of connections would be great...it's a big world of fasteners!
First - thank you for this video. With 1000Ah of battery, did you consider a second alternator (like Nation's Alternator sells) with a Wakespeed WS500 regulator to put out 280A of charging? Would really cut down the charge cycle times if you're planning on using that A/C often. I'm looking at using that setup and wondering if there was a reason you didn't do it (other than maybe cost, but that seems to be relative).
I’m planning to get that same alternator. From what I read you don’t even have to run it through a dc to dc charger. I’m not exactly sure the advantage in the 3 belt version. I guess reliability.
J'adore tes videos constructif 👏👏👏!, Merci pour le partage, l'enseignement, l'inspiration. grâce à tes vidéos tu me lance une motivation - j'ai mes lancent à mon tour!. I love your constructive videos 👏👏👏 !, Thank you for sharing, teaching, inspiration. Thanks to your videos you give me a motivation - I have my throws in my turn
That 8020 framing sure does make for a clean install! One small comment I would make is that you may not want such long cables from the battery bank to the 3000W inverter because that thing will draw a LOT of current! Shorter is better!
OMG thank you so much young man...your clear instructions for this wisdom is very much appreciated... at least now I know what's being used and why, what my shopping list will realistically look like and cost...I don't think I'll need 6 batteries...I had ki d of planned on 3 in case I have to use an electric toaster tupe oven and elec kettle vs a preferred propane set up...(if I need to keep oxygen in the van) from a 'what if' thought processesing... good to know it's OK to just go bigger just in case. Thanks again for sharing the wisdom this video is not too long considering a the important info you've packed into it. 😁 luv your window selections and layouts...perfect
this is great and really helpful, one thing I would recommend would be to add plastic conduit around all the wires under the van, this will help prevent dust and rocks from abrasion.
You should wrap all the parts of the wire that touch the sharper edges of the van in some sort of protective phone. The edges will cause tiny tears over time in the wire and you’ll start getting random shorts
Cool. I had heard that some fridges complain if it’s too much out of the range ... esp if you are going to do DC to DC charging and you’re pushing say 14V into the system. That’s one thing which the new Goal Zero batterybanks are doing is regulated outputs.
Another great informative video. Thanks for taking the time to go into detail and explaining all of the how's and why's. Definitely going to the top of my build playlist 👍
Thought? Run wire conduit within walls before adding insulation. You can then snake wire via the conduit vs drilling though van floor or roof when adding new wires? Thanks for the video.. Very well explained.
Great content! I've been following you since your first Sprinter. Very grateful for your time making these videos! Just be careful with the 8020 grounded on the chassis of the van :)
Hi can you explain what you mean? Ian planning on using 80/20 in a similar way. Do you mean you need to ground the 80/20 to the chassis of the van? Thanks!
I thought the same thing as Edson when I was watching the video. If you see at 9:24, the positive terminals are only a couple of inches away from the 8020, maybe even closer. The 8020 is conductive and it is presumably bolted into the frame in multiple locations, which would effectively make the 8020 frame a ground with reference to those batteries. Unless you have a fuse or DC Breaker installed on the negative side of your system, you run the risk of creating a direct short to ground and the current won't stop flowing until the BMS cuts out on short circuit detection or the wire melts. If it's only a small wire that is shorting, the BMS won't detect that as a short circuit, and your wire(s) will start glowing red hot until they melt!
@@2sherrymoore Even worse...if one of the batteries becomes loose in the mounting frame and the positive lug actually hits the 8020, the lug could get fused to the 8020 before the BMS cuts out on short circuit detection. For that reason, it is best to use wood or something non-conductive to house your battery bank.
When you talk about battery wiring, it is associative like in an algebraic expression. Meaning that it will flow to and from all the batteries in the bank as if it were one. There will be no loop just because it is connected at the same end. Infact, an equalization will occur simotainiousely between all the batteries in the bank.
Haha I'm soo hoked up in my 8020 design planing that I was trying to interact with your video just like I do in Blender ! So funny. Thanks a lot for your build series. Lots of ideas in there. You obviously have less concerns than others with the cost of those slip in nuts (they're genius al right).
Awesome video. I’d move your cell booster away from the microwave though. They can produce some of the same MHz bands and cause your booster to repeat some funky signal anytime the microwave is on.
Wow this was an incredible video! I'm planning to build a tiny home, but the thought of doing the electrical has been pretty intimidating. This makes me feel like I might be able to do it!
I want to say well done on the marine grade shore power receptical, most people use that plastic crap. But just an FYI on your solar breakers, code states that the positive and negative need to be disconnected simultaneously, which means your going to need a dual pole 250v dc breaker at the recommended max amperage of your solar array.
Great video! Only Complaint I have as an Electrician is your saying ( AWG ) as a word.. Just say Gauge, ( AWG ) means American Wire Gauge anyway.. and can me misunderstood as the word AUGHT as in your 2 Aught Cable 2/0 or 00. Very Clean and well thought out. Thanks for sharing... Also didn't really need to sacrifice an extention cord for the microwave cord as you could have purchased a replacement end at a hardware store.
No!! Nobody listen to this guy. Its a lie. AWG is a code electricians use that means Always With Girls. They are secretly pimps!! They think I dont know but I know. They know I know. I know they know I know that they know I know they know I know. One day I will expose you
Just installed 6 of the same batteries in my fifth wheel. I didn’t have a chance to test it out yet with the new Magnum MSH3012RV inverter charger. I hope they will be good and last a long time.
Nice presentation, just one thought. The 2/0 wires connecting engine batt to house batt think you said is fused at 300 amps. This I believe is to large a fuse since 2/0 wire max capacity is less than 200amps. Fuses cannot be sized greater than the wire capacity.
Great post and build! Those are Lithium IRON, not ION batteries I noticed. So confusing for us folks not familiar with the differences. So I researched it and here are my findings: Lithium Batteries - Not rechargeable. These are your watch batteries and similar. Not for RVs. Lithium ION batteries - Rechargeable. Li-Ion is the shorthand for these batteries. Stronger energy output, but shorter lifespan over Lithium Iron type. Lithium IRON - Rechargeable. LiFePO4 is the shorthand for these batteries. Li means Lithium. Fe is the symbol for Iron. PO4 is the chemistry symbol for Phosphate. In terms of energy levels, lithium-ion is the preferred battery for power-hungry electronic devices that drain batteries at a high rate since it has a higher energy density compared to lithium-iron phosphate. However, when it comes to discharge rate, lithium iron phosphate surpasses lithium ion. In most ways, LiFePO4 batteries are better than comparable lithium-ion batteries. Lithium iron phosphate batteries are less prone to combustion and thermal runaway, making them safer for home use. Plus, a longer cycle life means the LiFePO4 batteries will outlast lithium-ion for up to five times longer. Is LiFePO4 better than lithium ion? The LiFePO4 battery has the edge over lithium ion, both in terms of cycle life (it lasts 4-5x longer), and safety. This is a key advantage because lithium ion batteries can overheat and even catch fire, while LiFePO4 does not.
Great work, great details.., only thing is the “bathroom” thing slurping all the 3d volume… I would choose for the open area.. soo motivated to build another van 😎
Glad to see you are separating the battery bank from the car staring battery and alternator. However, once you go down this path it makes a lot of sense to operate at 24V or better still 48v - those wires and busbars you fitted would not then need to be so chunky or expensive. These days you can buy buck converters for so little you can still use 12v lights etc if you wish or even 120v if you have an inverter fitted.
Fantastic video with heaps of information to unpack. Just one small criticism. The last positive battery terminal that has the cable connected is frightening close to the aluminium frame. In even a small accident it could easily touch that frame. Suggestion. Cut a thick piece of plastic and glue it to the frame to surround the terminal on two sides. Otherwise brilliant work! 👍😀
Your shore power location is the best I’ve seen!!! Can you link the aluminum box and waterproof nipple part? Also how did you attach it to your van? Is it some kind of bracket? Thank you!!
I'm afraid I might leave the switch on and drain my car battery. I'd like a switch that would automatically disengage when I turn off the car engine. Great comprehensive video.
What a great build! Enjoy watching your video's :) I can 't seem to find part one of the electric build though... And i realy watched every video on this playlist (along with an other woman i hear .. 😉 ) .
Definitely test the cell booster before you find a final place to install it. I have the WeBoost version and my hotspot needs to be within a foot to get better signal. It's not the kind of thing where the interior antenna gets mounted inside and you get better bars anywhere inside the van.
@Steven O Savage, did you do power draw and amperage calculations to determine wiring gauges? The cable you were showing while talking about your lighting circuit almost looked like 12 gauge wire which would be overkill if you're using LED lights. The cable shown for the fan also seemed like the same thickness as for the lighting. I was astonished when you showed the bundle of wires in the ceiling for the exterior lights...That looked like a group of wires used to provide power to a small city... 🤣
I love your videos. thanks. these are called "wire strippers" they are legal in all 50 states. not to be confused with the other strippers :-). also, I'm guessing, since the fan is actually pulling air out, they needed to reverse the direction of the motor. that is why the black is the +. just a guess.
Quit toying with 12v inverters and go 24 or 48v. Then it'll be loads more efficient and you can run smaller wires. I have yet to figure our why rv and van people keep sticking with 12v inverters. There are more efficient systems out there.
Great build! You may want to buy some lower 50 or 75 amp fuses for your terminal fuse blocks instead of those 300 amp ones. Since you have 6 batteries in parallel the amp draw is evenly distributed between each battery, that means your 300 amp fuses won't blow until your entire bank is pulling 1800+ amps from a dead short, that's still plenty of power to melt a wrench accidentally laid across your battery terminals.
I can’t thank you enough for your detailed video it surely helps, it will help sell thousands of people with their van build for their campulance
Wow! You just blew me away with your practical and easy-to-follow instructions. I’m a mechanical engineer and I understand all of this on paper but don’t have the practical knowledge to tackle this daunting job…until now!! Thank you so much for sharing!!
Maybe you can answer my question 🙋🏻♀️. I purchased the same lithium batteries from Renogy 170ah 12V and they come with size 1/2” M13 stud terminals. The blue sea fuse block terminal size are 5/16” M8. How did he get them to fit? Can the terminal stud on the battery be changed? Blue sea does not make fuse blocks with terminal size M13
Thank you for making these electrical videos. I keep finding videos that say they explain how to build an electrical system that turn out to only be time lapses of the work with very little explanation of what is being done or why certain decisions were made. Thank you so much for taking the time and energy to put out videos about the 'less fun' parts of building a camper van (electrical, plumbing, insulation, etc.) that might not have as much value as far as bringing in viewers like a flashy van tour might but can make these aspects of a build so much easier for newbies who are just trying to find easy to consume information about tougher aspects of a build.
Although the rules for 240VAC installation are different here in Oz, this was probably the clearest vlog on the whole electrical approach I have seen. Nice work.
SOS, Your videos have me so hyped to start my build. You may also want to test the microwave at the same time as the Weboost to ensure you don't need a little shielding to prevent the microwave from interfering with the cell signal through the antenna cables.
16:06 Put the fuse in after the cable ;). I guess your main switch may have been isolated but best practise not to install the fuse till cable is in. Great video man! Blue sea is great stuff. I tried the amazon Chinese fuses before. They tripped 50amps lower than their rated load and got very warm.
You made me convinced I can do our van build all by myself. (With a check from a pro later just to be sure). Thank you for giving me the confidence!
I watched many videos regarding the electric/solar system and yours sir is by far the best explained video ever. Right down to the crimping and connections needed. Thank you. I’ll be plugging your video in all my van groups.
Thank you Maggie 🤙
It's worth considering going 24v with this system. You get more reasonable wire gauge and fuse capacities, higher efficiency/wattage from inverters and solar charge controllers, etc. 24v to 12v buck converters are cheap and many 12v devices don't like to see voltages on the high or low side of 12v, so adding a regulated buck converter can save you some headaches from fans and fridges that do better with a regulated 12v supply, though many will accept 24v. You seem to not mind redoing things so maybe give it a shot if you want to see if it's an improvement :)
Your right, when you have mor than 400amp/hr it makes sense to go 24 v or even 48v
I'm going 900ah. I was going to go 24v except the fact no one makes a 3000w inverter/charger for less then $4000 the money saved on wiring and charge controller was heavily outweighed by that one piece. Hence I will be going 12v since the renogy 3000w inverter charger is only $800
@@build-things there are plenty of 24v inverters and charges for much less than that. They don't need to be a 2 in 1 device...
@@gustersongusterson4120 like these? www.amazon.com/48-volt-inverter/s?k=48+volt+inverter
do the buck converters defeat the purpose du e to heat loss?
Love your channel! Another good use for a relay would be to act as an automatic switch. You can have your dc to dc charger turn on without having to flip a switch if You find a wire that only turns on when your ignition is in the run position.
So kick-ass!!! I really appreciate your putting up the detailed version!! Hell with the right softstart you can probably even power AC with this puppy!! I'm so impressed!!!👍
The directions for that inverter says not to mount it with the vent holes on top. I'm sure you have that figured out but I thought I'd mention it anyway at the risk of sounding like an annoying DIY troll
Thank you for pointers for the wiring process. Showing the real world alternative on running the wiring was great.
So your inverter is your automatic transfer switch? Your build is killer man. I'm a few steps behind you on my build. Thanks so much for making such great content. Your channel and OurKaravan are my two favorites by far.
The first fuse you connected directly off the main 'live' cable from the batteries goes as close to the batteries as possible. It is protecting the cable - stop it melting/burning and setting your van on fire. think about how you wire a house - the fuses go before the cable runs - they are not fitted inside the sockets and switches (exceptions do occur but that's another story)
Fantastic video mate! Really de-mystifies how this stuff works. Not going to lie though, running cables (or anything) under the van absolutely terrifies me!
This was so clear and helpful! The level of detail you included is next level!!
I'm really intrigued by the cables running under the van, I don't think I've ever seen that before but it makes a lot of sense
This was a great second part, thank you!
Yeah, me too. I’d be afraid (a) to drill holes in the bottom of the van and (b) that the wires would get damaged under the van. Is there any reason not to run all the wires inside the van, perhaps in an accessible channel in the floor or ceiling?
Great stuff, found tons of useful information on this video, just want to point that you giving tons of misinformation as well. The 60A of charge will be distributed between all 6 batteries (10A per battery), each battery is rated for 85A charge. Next, the relays from your lights as an example of how it works are rated for 40A max, so you can not use examples as 300A. Next, all your small connectors have plastic around them, this plastic is the same as a shrink tube, you have to use your heat gun to secure the connectors, so you will not be able to pull it out. Next, just a simple piece of advice on your manual switch to charge your batteries from the alternator, this is not the best solution, because at least ones you will forget to switch it off and because the alternator is directly connected to your battery will kill your sprinter"s AGM battery. The simple solution to use power from your ignition circuit to energize a solenoid-switch via a 12v relay . In this case the power from your alternator will automatically kick in as the engine is started and it will cut the power when the engine is off. Keep up the good work. This project is very inspiring!
Well done on connecting the batteries in parallel correctly and noting this key connection. Really like your explanation.
Maybe I missed a video, but i'd love to see a detailed video and diagram for the 80/20 part of the battery area setup... You have a well thought out and sized physical space over that wheel well and a diagram with links and dimensions for all the 80/20 things would be awesome!! Just like the electrical I'm pretty sure I could think it all through from scratch if I clubbed myself in the face long enough, but what you created with the electrical diagram and parts links was mint, and i'd love to see it for that 80/20 battery\electrical area!!! Feed me parts and dimensions and i'll click on and order all of the affiliate inks, lol! Nice job, as always!
Great video, I hope you got around to adding a grommet on the 240v out cable where it runs through the sheet metal on the top of the inverter. It will gradually wear due to vibrations
The long video is very nice. Didn't feel like 40min at all. And damn, just realized I sit my toilet for too long.
😂
Careful! Water and electricity don't mix!
I do that all the time. At least I can blame it on my Crohn's at work 😂
Literally my most fav vanbuild inspo and channel. Well done, Savage. 💀🤙🏼
Thank you so much for these detailed videos. Really appreciate your time and efforts to find the time to document the whole process in such detail. All the best from The Netherlands! 😊👍🏻
Seven you are my favorite perfectionist . Great job .
Great Job dude, The areas you pass thru the van are very helpful to show.
Dude I agree - taking something from concept, to planning, to implementation and iteration is friggin fulfilling. Would love to know more about your background and training. Seen most of your videos and I appreciate how motivated you remains to create and construct. Cheers from Portland, Oregon.
They say that so the fan doesn’t get blocked. I was told on a phone call a few weeks ago to Renogy to just place a shelf above to prevent blockage and it’s OK.
I ABSOLUTELY LOVE YOU AND THIS VIDEO!Thank you so much.You saved me ,no fear of doing this myself. Keep up the good work and keep on posting😁
That electrical module made out of 8020 looks great. Good job.
Ex pat based in England. First year van lifing where are you based does not look like California. Nice North Face top👍your van is spec sick 👍
@Seven O Savage - I'm a specialist in Solar Technics for houses and vans in all forms. I have to say very well done. There are alwyas some things which will come up but all little things are spotted and named. Respect for it !!!
At 19:41 - don't forget to insulate it around the aluminum plate with some water resistanr stuff
Thanks Mike! Good call 🤙
No way man the sub panel was an obvious but brilliant idea I never thought of! I installed all my panels in the back of my van and had to upsize a lot of wires since the runs were so long. This would have saved a ton of money in wiring and a whole lot of headache.
Hi, thanks for the content. A couple of questions. Why did you decide to stay with 12v? If you were to use 24v/48v and a cheap step down for the 12v stuff that would have saved you a ton of money in cabling, Charge controller, losses, etc. And with regards to the cabling, why not just use conduit in the inside of the van and if you need to run more cables you just run them throught the conduit, no need to take anything down. Even better, just run extra cables on each destination in case you need to add more appliances. I think drilling 2 holes in the bottom of your van is not really necessary.
Very high quality build. Great job showing the right way of doing something like this.
Love the channel! However, it does scare me with how close the positive terminals are to the metal frame. Possible short circuit.
Noticing the same
Agreed. But easily fixed with a single strip of electrical tape or duct tape along that metal edge.
Looks like they are strapped down so they "shouldnt" move much, but it only takes one pot hole.
🙀😿
Exactly! No tape, needs to add the thickest rubber strip that will fit. Maybe cut a 1.5 inch pvc pipe lengthwise. But insulate that Aluminum or your gonna have a fire.
This is the best video I've seen on how to build an electrical system. Thanks.
Excellent vid as usual! I live 20 minutes from Baja Designs and have been a very happy customer over 15 years. YES, their lights are simply the best. Step one to installing them: Throw their harness right in the trash, and make your own! :)
Amazing videos. they help so much. Even though I am an electronic technician, your video's are really helpful... My favorite van builder. I can't wait to build mine in a couple years.... thanks Seven!
Thank you for your build sharing and listing all the items! 👏
Great build, my is just a few steps behind and also a 4x4 sprinter. I am using all redarc systems and running two dc to dc chargers side by side that will provide 80 amps charge to the battery bank. So I was a little worried when you said 50amps is max 😳 I specifically got largest alternator option (250 amps) to run both dc to dc chargers. Can you please advise where you heard this limit from 🙏 oh and let me offer something back. I would highly recommend that you run a starter battery isolator connected to the ignition that will only allow dc to dc charger to operate whilst the ignition is on. This will prevent your starter battery being drawn down if you forget to press the switch.
Great video you covered a wide range in a short time. Best I've seen yet.
I was feeling pretty pumped with 400Ah of LiFePO4, this is going to be rad when it's done!
How did you attach the components (MPPT, Inverter, kill switch) to the 8020? Specifically which types of connections would be great...it's a big world of fasteners!
THANK YOU. You are appreciated in the world. Peace!
First - thank you for this video. With 1000Ah of battery, did you consider a second alternator (like Nation's Alternator sells) with a Wakespeed WS500 regulator to put out 280A of charging? Would really cut down the charge cycle times if you're planning on using that A/C often. I'm looking at using that setup and wondering if there was a reason you didn't do it (other than maybe cost, but that seems to be relative).
I’m planning to get that same alternator. From what I read you don’t even have to run it through a dc to dc charger. I’m not exactly sure the advantage in the 3 belt version. I guess reliability.
J'adore tes videos constructif 👏👏👏!, Merci pour le partage, l'enseignement, l'inspiration.
grâce à tes vidéos tu me lance une motivation - j'ai mes lancent à mon tour!.
I love your constructive videos 👏👏👏 !, Thank you for sharing, teaching, inspiration.
Thanks to your videos you give me a motivation - I have my throws in my turn
That 8020 framing sure does make for a clean install! One small comment I would make is that you may not want such long cables from the battery bank to the 3000W inverter because that thing will draw a LOT of current! Shorter is better!
OMG thank you so much young man...your clear instructions for this wisdom is very much appreciated... at least now I know what's being used and why, what my shopping list will realistically look like and cost...I don't think I'll need 6 batteries...I had ki d of planned on 3 in case I have to use an electric toaster tupe oven and elec kettle vs a preferred propane set up...(if I need to keep oxygen in the van) from a 'what if' thought processesing... good to know it's OK to just go bigger just in case. Thanks again for sharing the wisdom this video is not too long considering a the important info you've packed into it. 😁 luv your window selections and layouts...perfect
This is super effort. I really appreciate the information you have shared. thank you.
Awesome video, I really do appreciate your attention to detail, very informative!
How is running a bunch of wires under the van working out? Is it working out ok? Thanks!
Yep 👍
Thank you so much for the video. It gave me the confidence to complete the project. Great video!
this is great and really helpful, one thing I would recommend would be to add plastic conduit around all the wires under the van, this will help prevent dust and rocks from abrasion.
Thank you thank you thank you! I'll be watching this again.
Awesome video. Loved this. That 1042ah battery bank is droll worthy!!!!
You should wrap all the parts of the wire that touch the sharper edges of the van in some sort of protective phone. The edges will cause tiny tears over time in the wire and you’ll start getting random shorts
You should have alot more subscribers. Youre content is solid
Cool. I had heard that some fridges complain if it’s too much out of the range ... esp if you are going to do DC to DC charging and you’re pushing say 14V into the system. That’s one thing which the new Goal Zero batterybanks are doing is regulated outputs.
Another great informative video. Thanks for taking the time to go into detail and explaining all of the how's and why's. Definitely going to the top of my build playlist 👍
Thought? Run wire conduit within walls before adding insulation. You can then snake wire via the conduit vs drilling though van floor or roof when adding new wires? Thanks for the video.. Very well explained.
oh great suggestion! thanks for contributing
Very well done!! Wish I had this when I was planning my electrical system.
Great content! I've been following you since your first Sprinter. Very grateful for your time making these videos!
Just be careful with the 8020 grounded on the chassis of the van :)
Hi can you explain what you mean? Ian planning on using 80/20 in a similar way. Do you mean you need to ground the 80/20 to the chassis of the van? Thanks!
I thought the same thing as Edson when I was watching the video. If you see at 9:24, the positive terminals are only a couple of inches away from the 8020, maybe even closer. The 8020 is conductive and it is presumably bolted into the frame in multiple locations, which would effectively make the 8020 frame a ground with reference to those batteries. Unless you have a fuse or DC Breaker installed on the negative side of your system, you run the risk of creating a direct short to ground and the current won't stop flowing until the BMS cuts out on short circuit detection or the wire melts. If it's only a small wire that is shorting, the BMS won't detect that as a short circuit, and your wire(s) will start glowing red hot until they melt!
@@2sherrymoore Even worse...if one of the batteries becomes loose in the mounting frame and the positive lug actually hits the 8020, the lug could get fused to the 8020 before the BMS cuts out on short circuit detection. For that reason, it is best to use wood or something non-conductive to house your battery bank.
Absolutely blown away by you and this video. Your content (in all of your videos) is instructional as well as entertaining. Keep up the good work!
I love that metal frame but the set up,it’s ok.
When you talk about battery wiring, it is associative like in an algebraic expression. Meaning that it will flow to and from all the batteries in the bank as if it were one. There will be no loop just because it is connected at the same end. Infact, an equalization will occur simotainiousely between all the batteries in the bank.
Haha I'm soo hoked up in my 8020 design planing that I was trying to interact with your video just like I do in Blender ! So funny. Thanks a lot for your build series. Lots of ideas in there. You obviously have less concerns than others with the cost of those slip in nuts (they're genius al right).
Awesome video. I’d move your cell booster away from the microwave though. They can produce some of the same MHz bands and cause your booster to repeat some funky signal anytime the microwave is on.
Your content is so amazing!!!!!!
Looking forward to more DIY goodness. Thx.
Wow this was an incredible video! I'm planning to build a tiny home, but the thought of doing the electrical has been pretty intimidating. This makes me feel like I might be able to do it!
I love all your videos! Learning a lot! Thank you!
Great video! Super neat wiring! Some serious juice in that van!
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I want to say well done on the marine grade shore power receptical, most people use that plastic crap.
But just an FYI on your solar breakers, code states that the positive and negative need to be disconnected simultaneously, which means your going to need a dual pole 250v dc breaker at the recommended max amperage of your solar array.
Great video! Only Complaint I have as an Electrician is your saying ( AWG ) as a word.. Just say Gauge, ( AWG ) means American Wire Gauge anyway.. and can me misunderstood as the word AUGHT as in your 2 Aught Cable 2/0 or 00. Very Clean and well thought out. Thanks for sharing... Also didn't really need to sacrifice an extention cord for the microwave cord as you could have purchased a replacement end at a hardware store.
No!! Nobody listen to this guy. Its a lie. AWG is a code electricians use that means Always With Girls. They are secretly pimps!! They think I dont know but I know. They know I know. I know they know I know that they know I know they know I know. One day I will expose you
Excellent video. Very edifying
Just installed 6 of the same batteries in my fifth wheel. I didn’t have a chance to test it out yet with the new Magnum MSH3012RV inverter charger. I hope they will be good and last a long time.
Very cool Alain Lacroix. I think they will!
Nice presentation, just one thought. The 2/0 wires connecting engine batt to house batt think you said is fused at 300 amps. This I believe is to large a fuse since 2/0 wire max capacity is less than 200amps. Fuses cannot be sized greater than the wire capacity.
Great post and build! Those are Lithium IRON, not ION batteries I noticed. So confusing for us folks not familiar with the differences. So I researched it and here are my findings:
Lithium Batteries - Not rechargeable. These are your watch batteries and similar. Not for RVs.
Lithium ION batteries - Rechargeable. Li-Ion is the shorthand for these batteries. Stronger energy output, but shorter lifespan over Lithium Iron type.
Lithium IRON - Rechargeable. LiFePO4 is the shorthand for these batteries. Li means Lithium. Fe is the symbol for Iron. PO4 is the chemistry symbol for Phosphate.
In terms of energy levels, lithium-ion is the preferred battery for power-hungry electronic devices that drain batteries at a high rate since it has a higher energy density compared to lithium-iron phosphate. However, when it comes to discharge rate, lithium iron phosphate surpasses lithium ion.
In most ways, LiFePO4 batteries are better than comparable lithium-ion batteries. Lithium iron phosphate batteries are less prone to combustion and thermal runaway, making them safer for home use. Plus, a longer cycle life means the LiFePO4 batteries will outlast lithium-ion for up to five times longer.
Is LiFePO4 better than lithium ion? The LiFePO4 battery has the edge over lithium ion, both in terms of cycle life (it lasts 4-5x longer), and safety. This is a key advantage because lithium ion batteries can overheat and even catch fire, while LiFePO4 does not.
Brilliant Man! What more can be said? Peace.
Great work, great details.., only thing is the “bathroom” thing slurping all the 3d volume… I would choose for the open area.. soo motivated to build another van 😎
Best video so far.
Good video on electrical system for RV.
Glad to see you are separating the battery bank from the car staring battery and alternator. However, once you go down this path it makes a lot of sense to operate at 24V or better still 48v - those wires and busbars you fitted would not then need to be so chunky or expensive. These days you can buy buck converters for so little you can still use 12v lights etc if you wish or even 120v if you have an inverter fitted.
Fantastic inspiring work. Can't wait to to similar in my van.
Fantastic video with heaps of information to unpack.
Just one small criticism. The last positive battery terminal that has the cable connected is frightening close to the aluminium frame. In even a small accident it could easily touch that frame. Suggestion. Cut a thick piece of plastic and glue it to the frame to surround the terminal on two sides. Otherwise brilliant work! 👍😀
Your shore power location is the best I’ve seen!!! Can you link the aluminum box and waterproof nipple part? Also how did you attach it to your van? Is it some kind of bracket? Thank you!!
Love when channels post their electrical systems. ^•_•^
Great video! Very informative! Thank you!!
I'm afraid I might leave the switch on and drain my car battery. I'd like a switch that would automatically disengage when I turn off the car engine. Great comprehensive video.
What a great build! Enjoy watching your video's :) I can 't seem to find part one of the electric build though... And i realy watched every video on this playlist (along with an other woman i hear .. 😉 ) .
Thank you! Good call I just added the link to the description of the part 2 video here. Appreciate the support 🤙
@@seven_o_savage thanks!
Well done! Enjoyed the video.
Nice...not too long at all that's good Information
Definitely test the cell booster before you find a final place to install it. I have the WeBoost version and my hotspot needs to be within a foot to get better signal. It's not the kind of thing where the interior antenna gets mounted inside and you get better bars anywhere inside the van.
Good stuff!! thanks for the video.
@Steven O Savage, did you do power draw and amperage calculations to determine wiring gauges? The cable you were showing while talking about your lighting circuit almost looked like 12 gauge wire which would be overkill if you're using LED lights. The cable shown for the fan also seemed like the same thickness as for the lighting. I was astonished when you showed the bundle of wires in the ceiling for the exterior lights...That looked like a group of wires used to provide power to a small city... 🤣
Really nice video!
I love your videos. thanks. these are called "wire strippers" they are legal in all 50 states. not to be confused with the other strippers :-). also, I'm guessing, since the fan is actually pulling air out, they needed to reverse the direction of the motor. that is why the black is the +. just a guess.
What made you decide to go with 2/0 wire to connect the batteries? The manual that I got with my Renogy 3000W Inverter/charger recommends 4/0 wire.
Quit toying with 12v inverters and go 24 or 48v. Then it'll be loads more efficient and you can run smaller wires. I have yet to figure our why rv and van people keep sticking with 12v inverters. There are more efficient systems out there.
What are those alu rails? They look great.. and super useful..
way out my price range but its dope thanks for the video I understand a lot more part 1 and 2