@05:10 Whenever a "cheater stick" is employed, it is very risky to add a 12-point socket or wrench to the combination. In fact, only 6-point sockets for high-impact wrench use should be employed. (Or appropriate high-impact bits, if other than hex-head bolts are encountered.)
I realize you go to war with the army you have, not the army you wish to have. However, drive around the corner to the Ace hardware store in Tracys Landing and buy the correct socket! Sean's input is solid advice. @@RiggingDoctor
Yes you are correct... It is a risk. But if you pay attention to where you will go, or what the wrench will hit when the socket breaks, it is an easily acceptable- and manageable risk. And once the 12pt socket is broken, you can always get a 6 pointer to replace it. OSHA can F off... This is not a commercial enterprise.
The transfer of the load from the chain plates to the hull should not just be by the bolts (in shear) but by friction. The bolts clamp together and then load is transmitted by friction. That's why the bolts need to be nice and tight.
I prefer to use a breaker bar (not a ratchet) when using a cheater extension pipe. I agree that a 6 point socket or a 6 point impact socket is the way to go. I have split open regular 6 point sockets and broken ratchets when using a cheater extension pipe. I prefer using a breaker bar with an impact socket when using a cheater pipe extension instead of an impact driver because you can feel what you are doing. I have had to use a 36mm 1” socket, 1” breaker bar and a 12 ft pipe to get a 36mm nut off. No impact driver will give you that much torque.
Always tighten the fasteners by tightening the nuts, not the bolts. Ootherwise torque specifications are incorrect and the bolts can defect. Loosening the nuts first on removal is easier and saves broken bolts.
Harbor Freight 1/2 impact or at least small torque multiplier would save lot of sweat and tension. But this power tools vibrates a lot so keep that in mind to not cause cracks
@@RiggingDoctor Omnes viae Romam ducunt. Whichever is fiberglass friendly should work ( so no heat and beat this time) Stubborn bolts are places where expextations meets reality.
I think an impact wrench (air or electric) might have helped to break the bolts free from the holes through the bracing, unless impact is a no-no on these boats. Also, a little blaster or acetone-ATF mixture might help as well a little time before applying force.
I ended up needing to use an impact wrench on a few of them and it was not successful. In the end, one of the iron bars had to be cut off by a grinder! The issue with oil is contamination in the future.
At 10:00 you say the the highest one carries the most load. No with s/s cp’s on ply the lowest. Bolt carries the most, because of the relative stiffness (modulus) of the materials.
Probably wouldn't have guessed that you were a DDS. But since I do now, I couldn't help noticing that your approach and tool handling extracting the chainplate hardware reminded me of tooth extractions I have had and seen. Keep up the great wirk. Mark, from SFO bay area (Santa Clara).
I very much enjoy your videos and a lot of very practical working methods and items shown on a regular basis. A lot of good comments and hints below, Sean Flanagan, has made some good points. If I can add something of use it would be, don't use a torque increaser extention bar, with a ratchet, the ratched will be damaged and may fail suddenly under excessive (for its designed function) load.
That is a very good point and I have since ordered a beaker bar for when I tackle the other side. The tools I carry on the boat are limited, but I don’t want to abuse older “Made in USA” Craftman because it is irreplaceable. The “Made in China” Craftman doesn’t hold up to the abuse as well.
Wow, nice Rolex !! Sometimes a heatgun on the nuts can make it expand enough to loosen. Another idea when hammering the bolts out is to leave the nuts on half way so not to expand the end that way when eventually it goes through the hole it slides through, or also if re using it doesn't damage the threads. I find your videos highly interesting, a lot of knowledge. I have learned lots from you. Exelente work
@01:25 Wish I had been there: I would highly recommend on assemblies that old and corroded or encapsulated, backing nuts off until flush with the bolt end then whacking it with a heavy hammer to free the bolt head. Guess you will find a way to get the bolts out from the other side.
😂 we crossed the Atlantic twice with them like that. The difference is these are iron so they rust like crazy where stainless looks fine…and then snaps
You should keep the old bolts, for tough residential jobs like hanging pictures or attaching plant brackets. If you have a lathe you can also turn them into pretty piles of blue / brown useless chips. 8^) Cheers!
“Give to me a fulcrum on which to plant my lever, and I will move the world.” Archimedes. The beefiness of your rigging is making me feel inadequate lol. My boats rigging seems chintzy by comparison
I had this amazing experience once when I was assisting the engineers to remove huge three inch nuts from the four axles of an oversized overweight extremely hot and deadly chemical trailer. I needed a six foot long cheater stick to jump up and down using all of my 325 pound six six oversized headed self to overcome the break over torque. Anyway, the engineers handed me their six foot cheater stick and it was surprisingly lightweight. They said it is super dooper High modulus composite pipe designed for chemical plant high temperature extreme pressure non corrosive piping. They likely saw the amazed look on my face then handed me a featherweight little ratcheting wrench that felt like a feather. Seriously, my chrome Vanadium wrench weighs like a bowling ball. I literally jumped down as hard as I could on the featherlight tools trying to break them as I retorqued the semi trailer axles spindle nuts. Im telling you these tools were stronger than steel but light as a feather plus they don't rust.
That’s amazing! The best water pump I have is a “little giant” like this one: amzn.to/3VADjWz It has been submerged three times when my bilge filled with water, and it still runs without missing a beat! It’s expensive and runs on AC, but when you need a really dependable pump, it’s the one for the job. The previous owner put it in to run his refrigeration and when I looked it up to get a second one, I was shocked that the thing can run submerged in hot acid! The equipment for the chemical industry is on an entirely different level!
@@RiggingDoctor Nobody makes a better mag drive pump than Little Giant. I've owned three in my life pumping 24-7 for 20-15-10+ years. Started building live miniature reefs back in the early 90's. My living room to dining room wall grew like a natural reef. The propagation was so abundant I ran adds in the Denver Post and Rocky Mountain News classifieds every month.
Won’t they bend? I got a steel pipe with some pretty thick walls to resist bending. I will need lead pipe when I’m finishing the bulwarks on Windpuff, it makes great hawse pipe fairings, molded to fit the hole perfectly. Lead really is an incredible metal!
I'm pleased you are using your tools not mine. I would use what we call a breaker bar with the proper sockets on a job like this, ratchets are not made to do what you are doing and could break with devastating results, don't teach bad habits that could injure someone else.
Why not g10 backing plates and oversized dyneema soft shackles for chain plates? No metal, corrosion…. CHEAP, Easy to inspect and replace. Only downside would be no turnbuckles which I know you’d prefer. But no bolts seems like the best way with salt!!!
I am not sure what size G10 you have in mind but I have seen many instances where G10's strength was over estimated. Failure here would be catastrophic. I know dyneema chain plates are used on racing vessels but I would think long term sealing against water intrusion would be an issue. Racers are less concerned with long term problems than cruisers.
The biggest problem with Dyneema soft shackles for chainplates is the point loading. Chainplates are a very complicated structure that needs to accomplish many things or the whole system fails. In smaller setups, the loads are lighter so the points of failure might never show up. In my case, the loads are about 64,000 pounds and that is more load than the deck or one hole in the topsides can support. I love Dyneema but this is not a good application for the material. You would be much better off with carbon fiber or even fiberglass for the chainplate and then Dyneema for the rest of the rigging.
Any sealant can be soaked into the dyneema to seal the hull. Seems it’d be easy to build up glass tapered out from the load to a thickness that can hold multiple times the weight of the boat. Surely stronger than the stay the load could possibly create???hmmm. Or easily stronger than that tetanus trap!!!! I saw another UA-camr test and do just this. The math seemed simple and a huge safety factor naked in. Forget the name Huge fan btw and love the new build. I’m adding a bowsprit to the bowsprit of my Downeaster 45 ketch soon. Yep sketchy home built chaos for me also!!
Bonding works beautifully IF everything is working as it should. If there is a break in the chain, the spot next to the broken link will act as the anode and get eaten away instead of the actual anode. When it was explained to me (by a marine electrician who is in favor of bonding) it seemed obvious to me that it’s not a great idea if you are of the mindset that something will go wrong, and the greater the complexity, the greater the chance that something will fail. If the boat is bonded, and working properly, only the anode will get destroyed and everything is protected. If the boat is not bonded, everything below the water will get attacked slowly and the anode faster than the rest. I removed the bonding system from all my through hull and have been removing it from the above the waterline components gradually over the years. When I build out Windpuff, there will be no bonding (but there will also only be 1 through hull and one prop shaft, so not much to interact anyways.
Wait... What happened to the carbon fiber chainplates? Also, forgive me for criticizing your use of tools. I hope you take this as constructive criticism... I don't mean to be rude. First... Buy a few boxes of disposable gloves. They will keep your hands clean and protect them from chemicals that can get into your blood- think cancer. Also get some slightly thicker gloves- like for gardening and such- the kind you get from Costco in a 12 pack. They help protect your hands from slivers and bruises while manipulating the not-so-delicate parts- like the rusty chainplates. You can wear the latex gloves inside of them even for added protection. I only use latex gloves at work (mechanic), for the tactile feedback/dexterity, but at home (carpentry/plumbing/electrical) I generally use the thicker gloves. I use both together at home when the temperature drops below ~30F, because the latex gloves help retain heat in my fingers, but I can still generally manipulate relatively small items. Second... Pay more attention to how you position your hands while applying heavy force to your tools... When your tool slips, you want your fingers clear, so you don't smash them in the byte. Third... Get a bigger hammer (with a short handle), and keep the nuts on the bolts- almost flush with the end of the bolts- when you smack them. The nut will protect the threads on the bolts. I know you are replacing the bolts, but still... In my opinion, those expensive bolts are reusable. Yes, replace the nuts with nylocks, but the bolts have not been work hardened, and the threads have not been stretched beyond their yield. Those very expensive bolts apply a clamping force to the chainplates, and the connection does not rely on a shear force. I believe the bolts are perfectly fine to reuse. Fourth... when you apply force to your ratchet- especially on an extension- support the ratchet opposite the force you apply, so you get more turning, and less sideways force on your socket. Normally you can use your other hand for this, but you could also use blocking in a tight space where you can't effectively reach. You could even push with your foot, while you pull the handle toward yourself if you need the strength of both hands. Just pay attention to where you will fall if the tool/fastener slips suddenly, while one foot is occupied in your work. Unless you are too obese to do a pull-up, you have more power pulling with your muscles, than you have pushing with your weight. But also be mindful of where the tool will hit you if it slips while pulling it toward yourself. Don't let your mouth- and teeth- be in the way... Ask me how I know. Fifth... Get an impact gun. You'll still need to loosen stubborn fasteners by hand, but the gun will spin the nuts off/on quickly once you get them loose. Source: My own lifetime of mistakes. Looking forward to your fiberglass work... I still need to learn that.
Thank you for the pointers! If I slip, my fingers are getting a smacking!! I will change how I push to protect them. I wear nitrile gloves and multiple layers of them pretty much all the time. I meet my match tonight with three bolts that would not come out. I’m getting an impact tool tomorrow so I can break them free. The foot trick came in handy tonight with the other bolts! Thanks for the advice!
Since I’m going to be glassing in this area, I don’t want to introduce any oils that I would later need to remove. I am trying to use good ol’ fashioned elbow grease to get the job done that way the next steps will flow normally.
Better safe than sorry. I would have emptied a couple of cans of WD-40 onto all that rust and went to lunch while I let it soak. But I get your point. You will probably sand and soap the area before you start but why add more oil. And lastly, if you were pulling my tooth, I would hate if you sprayed my mouth with WD-40 first.@@RiggingDoctor
If you do need to use release oil just buy a can of brake and clutch cleaner it should lift and destroy any grease. Break the seal then get a battery torque driver on to a socket ... If you can get in... Leave the old nut on the head of the bolt but proud of the bolt head so if you have to drive the bolt out you don't damage bolt thread. Incase you need to put it back in and don't have a set of taps and dies. Learn not only the grades of metals but also the marking codes for the types and grades of bolts ..and sett screw/ bolts or those that are threaded all the way up to the head ...they are weaker than true bolts with a plain shoulder or shank...but you have to make sure the latter can actually tighten enough before they run out of thread...to reach the required compressive torque. At a push you can add heavy duty spacers or washers to take up slack and prevent compression of the glass ..wood or composite.
But the budget for the project isn’t that expensive either. The biggest cost in having this done is the labor and since I do all the labor myself, it’s just the cost of the raw materials.
Good video! From watching other sailing channels, if you want to increase your Patreon numbers it would be helpful to get your wife in a bikini ..................or maybe you in a bikini, whatever floats your boat I guess. (grin)
Wise decision. So many women are willing to trade their souls and dignity for the views and likes. To be honest, being a complete misogynist, I'm glad those kinds of women are around (grin)@@RiggingDoctor
![What Will Support the Chain Plates? | Sailing Wisdom [S6 Ep5]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NeiFpO44fx8/mqdefault.jpg)
![What Will Support the Chain Plates? | Sailing Wisdom [S6 Ep5]](/img/tr.png)
![Connecting External Chainplates to Synthetic Standing Rigging | Sailing Wisdom [S6 Ep11]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/taVvcZjfHOw/mqdefault.jpg)
@05:10 Whenever a "cheater stick" is employed, it is very risky to add a 12-point socket or wrench to the combination. In fact, only 6-point sockets for high-impact wrench use should be employed. (Or appropriate high-impact bits, if other than hex-head bolts are encountered.)
That is a good point, but this is the only socket I have on the boat in the size needed (15/16”)
I realize you go to war with the army you have, not the army you wish to have. However, drive around the corner to the Ace hardware store in Tracys Landing and buy the correct socket! Sean's input is solid advice. @@RiggingDoctor
Yes you are correct... It is a risk. But if you pay attention to where you will go, or what the wrench will hit when the socket breaks, it is an easily acceptable- and manageable risk. And once the 12pt socket is broken, you can always get a 6 pointer to replace it. OSHA can F off... This is not a commercial enterprise.
On a boat you use whatever you have.
The transfer of the load from the chain plates to the hull should not just be by the bolts (in shear) but by friction. The bolts clamp together and then load is transmitted by friction. That's why the bolts need to be nice and tight.
Yes indeed, the good ol’ slip critical joint
Definitely the time to use an impact driver!
I got it and I’m ready to get whacking!
I prefer to use a breaker bar (not a ratchet) when using a cheater extension pipe. I agree that a 6 point socket or a 6 point impact socket is the way to go. I have split open regular 6 point sockets and broken ratchets when using a cheater extension pipe. I prefer using a breaker bar with an impact socket when using a cheater pipe extension instead of an impact driver because you can feel what you are doing. I have had to use a 36mm 1” socket, 1” breaker bar and a 12 ft pipe to get a 36mm nut off. No impact driver will give you that much torque.
Always tighten the fasteners by tightening the nuts, not the bolts. Ootherwise torque specifications are incorrect and the bolts can defect. Loosening the nuts first on removal is easier and saves broken bolts.
Very good point!
I just want to say how satisfying it was to see you rip out that rusty metal! Nice episode this week! 😁
Thank you! It was incredibly satisfying to behold first hand as well 😌
Harbor Freight 1/2 impact or at least small torque multiplier would save lot of sweat and tension. But this power tools vibrates a lot so keep that in mind to not cause cracks
I’ll stick to the slow way with a cheater stick
@@RiggingDoctor Omnes viae Romam ducunt. Whichever is fiberglass friendly should work ( so no heat and beat this time) Stubborn bolts are places where expextations meets reality.
I think an impact wrench (air or electric) might have helped to break the bolts free from the holes through the bracing, unless impact is a no-no on these boats.
Also, a little blaster or acetone-ATF mixture might help as well a little time before applying force.
I ended up needing to use an impact wrench on a few of them and it was not successful. In the end, one of the iron bars had to be cut off by a grinder!
The issue with oil is contamination in the future.
should use a beaker bar not ratchet to undo tight bolts alot of load on small ratchet teeth
That is a very good point
At 10:00 you say the the highest one carries the most load. No with s/s cp’s on ply the lowest. Bolt carries the most, because of the relative stiffness (modulus) of the materials.
Then why does the top hole almost always form the crack?
Wonderful balls of rust❤ so glad you're getting that mess out of there
I’m so glad we didn’t cut them off and leave part of it behind!
Probably wouldn't have guessed that you were a DDS. But since I do now, I couldn't help noticing that your approach and tool handling extracting the chainplate hardware reminded me of tooth extractions I have had and seen. Keep up the great wirk. Mark, from SFO bay area (Santa Clara).
It’s my training 🤓
Gives new meaning to the name of the boat too 🦷
I very much enjoy your videos and a lot of very practical working methods and items shown on a regular basis. A lot of good comments and hints below, Sean Flanagan, has made some good points. If I can add something of use it would be, don't use a torque increaser extention bar, with a ratchet, the ratched will be damaged and may fail suddenly under excessive (for its designed function) load.
That is a very good point and I have since ordered a beaker bar for when I tackle the other side. The tools I carry on the boat are limited, but I don’t want to abuse older “Made in USA” Craftman because it is irreplaceable. The “Made in China” Craftman doesn’t hold up to the abuse as well.
Wow, nice Rolex !!
Sometimes a heatgun on the nuts can make it expand enough to loosen.
Another idea when hammering the bolts out is to leave the nuts on half way so not to expand the end that way when eventually it goes through the hole it slides through, or also if re using it doesn't damage the threads.
I find your videos highly interesting, a lot of knowledge. I have learned lots from you. Exelente work
Thank you, it’s a vintage one too, from 1964
@01:25 Wish I had been there: I would highly recommend on assemblies that old and corroded or encapsulated, backing nuts off until flush with the bolt end then whacking it with a heavy hammer to free the bolt head.
Guess you will find a way to get the bolts out from the other side.
If I was going to reuse the bolts, I would have done it that way, but these bolts are on a one way trip!
🥰
Reminds me of my old m34 1969 mast step - easier yet messy replacement
This one is from 1968. I guess that’s how they did it back then
I'm really glad to see this kind of video. It's really interesting. Carry on!
I love your username 😎
I love that you talked yourself out of it.
When I heard myself, I was thinking “what am I doing? This is stupid!” 🤣
I'm surprised you'd not needed a cordless impact driver prior to now.
I have a mental block against power tools for some reason. If there is a manual way to do it, it’s the way my mind gravitates.
EVERYONE IN FORUMS: "Your Island Packet chainplates need to be replaced"
ME LOOKING AT RIGGING DOCTORS RUSTED OUT CHAINPLATES: "Na, mine are great!"
😂 we crossed the Atlantic twice with them like that.
The difference is these are iron so they rust like crazy where stainless looks fine…and then snaps
I have an IP35. My Chainplates needed replacement.
Impact driver, easier, safer, faster. I've been working on rusty stuff for decades, my first air impact driver changed working on rusty stuff forever.
so... where are you getting the bronze hardware from?
A foundry in Pennsylvania
You should keep the old bolts, for tough residential jobs like hanging pictures or attaching plant brackets. If you have a lathe you can also turn them into pretty piles of blue / brown useless chips. 8^) Cheers!
I have a bad habit of holding onto “good junk”
I've noticed that I never have enough tools on a sailboat. Your "cheater stick" is called a snipe, around where I live.
You just have to make do with what you have sometimes
What a hard job.
The worst part is I still have to do the same on the other side!
“Give to me a fulcrum on which to plant my lever, and I will move the world.” Archimedes. The beefiness of your rigging is making me feel inadequate lol. My boats rigging seems chintzy by comparison
That is the exact phrase I was thinking when I pushed on the cheater stick!
@@RiggingDoctor 😁
Use 6 point socket!!!
It’s the tool I had on hand 🤷♂️
I had this amazing experience once when I was assisting the engineers to remove huge three inch nuts from the four axles of an oversized overweight extremely hot and deadly chemical trailer. I needed a six foot long cheater stick to jump up and down using all of my 325 pound six six oversized headed self to overcome the break over torque. Anyway, the engineers handed me their six foot cheater stick and it was surprisingly lightweight. They said it is super dooper High modulus composite pipe designed for chemical plant high temperature extreme pressure non corrosive piping. They likely saw the amazed look on my face then handed me a featherweight little ratcheting wrench that felt like a feather. Seriously, my chrome Vanadium wrench weighs like a bowling ball. I literally jumped down as hard as I could on the featherlight tools trying to break them as I retorqued the semi trailer axles spindle nuts. Im telling you these tools were stronger than steel but light as a feather plus they don't rust.
That’s amazing! The best water pump I have is a “little giant” like this one: amzn.to/3VADjWz
It has been submerged three times when my bilge filled with water, and it still runs without missing a beat! It’s expensive and runs on AC, but when you need a really dependable pump, it’s the one for the job. The previous owner put it in to run his refrigeration and when I looked it up to get a second one, I was shocked that the thing can run submerged in hot acid!
The equipment for the chemical industry is on an entirely different level!
@@RiggingDoctor Nobody makes a better mag drive pump than Little Giant. I've owned three in my life pumping 24-7 for 20-15-10+ years. Started building live miniature reefs back in the early 90's. My living room to dining room wall grew like a natural reef. The propagation was so abundant I ran adds in the Denver Post and Rocky Mountain News classifieds every month.
Lead pipes work great for cheater bar
Won’t they bend? I got a steel pipe with some pretty thick walls to resist bending.
I will need lead pipe when I’m finishing the bulwarks on Windpuff, it makes great hawse pipe fairings, molded to fit the hole perfectly. Lead really is an incredible metal!
👍👍👍
👍
I'm pleased you are using your tools not mine. I would use what we call a breaker bar with the proper sockets on a job like this, ratchets are not made to do what you are doing and could break with devastating results, don't teach bad habits that could injure someone else.
Good point, I just don’t have those tools on the boat. I will source a 1/2” breaker bar for when I go to do the other side.
Why not g10 backing plates and oversized dyneema soft shackles for chain plates? No metal, corrosion…. CHEAP, Easy to inspect and replace. Only downside would be no turnbuckles which I know you’d prefer. But no bolts seems like the best way with salt!!!
I am not sure what size G10 you have in mind but I have seen many instances where G10's strength was over estimated. Failure here would be catastrophic. I know dyneema chain plates are used on racing vessels but I would think long term sealing against water intrusion would be an issue. Racers are less concerned with long term problems than cruisers.
The biggest problem with Dyneema soft shackles for chainplates is the point loading. Chainplates are a very complicated structure that needs to accomplish many things or the whole system fails. In smaller setups, the loads are lighter so the points of failure might never show up. In my case, the loads are about 64,000 pounds and that is more load than the deck or one hole in the topsides can support.
I love Dyneema but this is not a good application for the material. You would be much better off with carbon fiber or even fiberglass for the chainplate and then Dyneema for the rest of the rigging.
Any sealant can be soaked into the dyneema to seal the hull. Seems it’d be easy to build up glass tapered out from the load to a thickness that can hold multiple times the weight of the boat.
Surely stronger than the stay the load could possibly create???hmmm. Or easily stronger than that tetanus trap!!!!
I saw another UA-camr test and do just this. The math seemed simple and a huge safety factor naked in. Forget the name
Huge fan btw and love the new build. I’m adding a bowsprit to the bowsprit of my Downeaster 45 ketch soon. Yep sketchy home built chaos for me also!!
So... any new thought/feeling about bonding? I've heard both arguments, and this mess seems to support the "anti" camp's view on it.
Bonding works beautifully IF everything is working as it should. If there is a break in the chain, the spot next to the broken link will act as the anode and get eaten away instead of the actual anode.
When it was explained to me (by a marine electrician who is in favor of bonding) it seemed obvious to me that it’s not a great idea if you are of the mindset that something will go wrong, and the greater the complexity, the greater the chance that something will fail.
If the boat is bonded, and working properly, only the anode will get destroyed and everything is protected.
If the boat is not bonded, everything below the water will get attacked slowly and the anode faster than the rest.
I removed the bonding system from all my through hull and have been removing it from the above the waterline components gradually over the years.
When I build out Windpuff, there will be no bonding (but there will also only be 1 through hull and one prop shaft, so not much to interact anyways.
Wait... What happened to the carbon fiber chainplates? Also, forgive me for criticizing your use of tools. I hope you take this as constructive criticism... I don't mean to be rude. First... Buy a few boxes of disposable gloves. They will keep your hands clean and protect them from chemicals that can get into your blood- think cancer. Also get some slightly thicker gloves- like for gardening and such- the kind you get from Costco in a 12 pack. They help protect your hands from slivers and bruises while manipulating the not-so-delicate parts- like the rusty chainplates. You can wear the latex gloves inside of them even for added protection. I only use latex gloves at work (mechanic), for the tactile feedback/dexterity, but at home (carpentry/plumbing/electrical) I generally use the thicker gloves. I use both together at home when the temperature drops below ~30F, because the latex gloves help retain heat in my fingers, but I can still generally manipulate relatively small items. Second... Pay more attention to how you position your hands while applying heavy force to your tools... When your tool slips, you want your fingers clear, so you don't smash them in the byte. Third... Get a bigger hammer (with a short handle), and keep the nuts on the bolts- almost flush with the end of the bolts- when you smack them. The nut will protect the threads on the bolts. I know you are replacing the bolts, but still... In my opinion, those expensive bolts are reusable. Yes, replace the nuts with nylocks, but the bolts have not been work hardened, and the threads have not been stretched beyond their yield. Those very expensive bolts apply a clamping force to the chainplates, and the connection does not rely on a shear force. I believe the bolts are perfectly fine to reuse. Fourth... when you apply force to your ratchet- especially on an extension- support the ratchet opposite the force you apply, so you get more turning, and less sideways force on your socket. Normally you can use your other hand for this, but you could also use blocking in a tight space where you can't effectively reach. You could even push with your foot, while you pull the handle toward yourself if you need the strength of both hands. Just pay attention to where you will fall if the tool/fastener slips suddenly, while one foot is occupied in your work. Unless you are too obese to do a pull-up, you have more power pulling with your muscles, than you have pushing with your weight. But also be mindful of where the tool will hit you if it slips while pulling it toward yourself. Don't let your mouth- and teeth- be in the way... Ask me how I know. Fifth... Get an impact gun. You'll still need to loosen stubborn fasteners by hand, but the gun will spin the nuts off/on quickly once you get them loose. Source: My own lifetime of mistakes. Looking forward to your fiberglass work... I still need to learn that.
Thank you for the pointers! If I slip, my fingers are getting a smacking!! I will change how I push to protect them.
I wear nitrile gloves and multiple layers of them pretty much all the time.
I meet my match tonight with three bolts that would not come out. I’m getting an impact tool tomorrow so I can break them free.
The foot trick came in handy tonight with the other bolts!
Thanks for the advice!
Can you not use penetrating oil like WD-40? Or did you not show it?
Since I’m going to be glassing in this area, I don’t want to introduce any oils that I would later need to remove. I am trying to use good ol’ fashioned elbow grease to get the job done that way the next steps will flow normally.
Better safe than sorry. I would have emptied a couple of cans of WD-40 onto all that rust and went to lunch while I let it soak. But I get your point. You will probably sand and soap the area before you start but why add more oil. And lastly, if you were pulling my tooth, I would hate if you sprayed my mouth with WD-40 first.@@RiggingDoctor
If you do need to use release oil just buy a can of brake and clutch cleaner it should lift and destroy any grease.
Break the seal then get a battery torque driver on to a socket ... If you can get in... Leave the old nut on the head of the bolt but proud of the bolt head so if you have to drive the bolt out you don't damage bolt thread. Incase you need to put it back in and don't have a set of taps and dies.
Learn not only the grades of metals but also the marking codes for the types and grades of bolts ..and sett screw/ bolts or those that are threaded all the way up to the head ...they are weaker than true bolts with a plain shoulder or shank...but you have to make sure the latter can actually tighten enough before they run out of thread...to reach the required compressive torque. At a push you can add heavy duty spacers or washers to take up slack and prevent compression of the glass ..wood or composite.
My friend why just Borrow an electric impact gun, or use a longer break a bar or ratchet ?
Now I have a long pipe (a 3 foot and a 4 foot) on hand for all the bolts I will need to pull out.
Next time borrow a small compressor and an air hammer ... knocking the bolts back and separating the chain plates would have went much quicker.
That would have been faster! Not where my mind went as you can see, but definitely faster!
Looks like fun..... not. 😂😂 But, great patience! ✝️🙏❤️🇺🇸⛵️👣🍍😊
I'll bet it felt good to get that rusty old iron out of Wisdom.
So satisfying! I’ve been dealing with it since I bought her!
What scares me here, is boatbuilders get parts and material at wholesale cost. This is all retail.
But the budget for the project isn’t that expensive either. The biggest cost in having this done is the labor and since I do all the labor myself, it’s just the cost of the raw materials.
@@RiggingDoctor Some good news. OK.
Good video!
From watching other sailing channels, if you want to increase your Patreon numbers it would be helpful to get your wife in a bikini ..................or maybe you in a bikini, whatever floats your boat I guess.
(grin)
Haha! We have discussed it in the past and decided against it. We want to be able to show our kids these videos in the future.
Wise decision. So many women are willing to trade their souls and dignity for the views and likes. To be honest, being a complete misogynist, I'm glad those kinds of women are around (grin)@@RiggingDoctor