the edit from learning, "i'm also a Dentist", to shot of grinder...the audio track took me somewhere other than boat work. I really should make an appointment ...
Thanks, it was very fun with the little one. The project is really coming along nicely thanks to the great materials! This weekend I will get the other side of the hull glassed and ready for the plates!
You got that all done in 8 hours? That's awesome! Looked like you only had a couple days in the prep too... Gives me hope that I'll be able to handle it... I feel like I have a bunch of fiberglass in my near future, so I need to learn how to work it.
I have found that I will take as much time as I have. I only had 8 hours to work and I took 8 hours! I feel like I would have been faster if I needed to and taken longer if I could have.
The first step is actually to go over the entire surface you want to bond to with dewaxer followed by the grinder. Then put the new glass in with epoxy not polyester resin. The reason not to use polyester resin is that polyester doesn't make good secondary bonds and epoxy does. Since you used laminating resin, there was no need to rush. Also, all you needed to do to get the laminating resin to cure was to spray some polyvinyl alcohol onto the surface. That is a 2 minute job. Once the resin is fully cured you can wash the PVA off with soapy water. Also you really should have used biaxial fabric rather than woven roving.
Well what the theory tells me: bond glass to glass directly. To do so you would sand away all surface layers of the old polyester. Instead you added a layer of filler on the old resin, then came your glass, this is not really connected to the old structure, just sort of glued to the old laminate. The polyester resin is the weakest part, the only structural strengh comes from the fibers. So basically you need to build the reinforcement as strong as if it would be the only part, the hull itself... This is not something done professionally, sorry.
These are good points. Epoxy has a much stronger bond than polyester, but it is also much more expensive. For the forces put on this area (compressive) the bond of polyester will be strong enough given the surface area it has to bond with. As for dewaxing and grinding, that would be good to do, but this job is actually supplemental. Based on the scantiling numbers for the Morgan, the hull needs to be 3/8” thick (9mm) to support the added load of the chainplate, but the hull is already 3/4” thick (19mm). I added an additional 1/4” (6mm) to the hull to beef it up, especially the tabbing to the bulkheads where roving is preferred over biaxial due to the direction of the fibers. I then put biaxial over it at the end for the added strength that that fiber design yields, but the two layers of roving are the real work horses in the story here. As for the rush to finish: I only had 1 day to get it done so that it would cure as one solid piece. As for the PVA or finishing resin coat: I had been working for 8 hours without a break. My arms were done and the quick finishing coat could wait. My arms would not comply so the job ended at that stopping point.
The reason for the putty layer was to fill any voids in the surface of the old layer so that bubbles would be less likely to occur. I sanded the surface and wiped it down with acetone, but that doesn’t guarantee that a small void won’t occur between the old and new glass. Also, a stray strand sticking up would hold up the laminate and cause an incurable air bubble!
Aye Captain. Would it be possible for you to make a video of the process of X-ray'ing you old chainplates? Thanks, Mark in Santa Clara, CA (SFO bay area)
Wow, that's alot of great looking work!! We're in the middle of replacing a rotten bulkhead in the chain locker of our Westsail. Using 1708 and epoxy resin, have you any thoughts on using peelply? A couple of small projects have come out pretty well with it. Any thoughts, thanks for your time. Jeff and Julie s/v OoLaLa Westsail 32 hull #81
I'd love to see the x-rays. I'm amazed that a dental x Ray machine has the power to go through steel. As a one time industrial radiographer we used much more potent machines!
For dental with digital I have the machine set to 9 milliseconds, but with film it used to be up around 25 milliseconds. For metals, I just crank up the settings until I can see through it :)
Sorry! The fumes are so strong in there that I can’t stand a moment of it without the respirator! I’ll use a different mic that’s closer to my mouth in the future with the respirator so that you can hear me better. The GoPro struggles to pick up the sound but the other cameras use Rode mics that hear me well and clear.
I was wondering what you would think of this. I love the dipping lug rig, but this requires an unstayed mast. Difficult to dismount because it is keel mounted. How about a mast where it only goes halfway up the mast. If you were ever dismasted, then it would likely leave you a short mast where it broke. You could also lower the mast and stow it in the length of the boat.
@RiggingDoctor No what I mean is all the tops of all the stays being fixed at halfway up the mast. It is a hybrid between being an unstayed mast and a stayed mast. The mast could be deck mounted and because it is a dipping lug, it could be dismountable and stowed within the length of the boat. I have figured out how to make your own carbon fibre masts by the way. It's so easy and cheap. One day, I will build a boat of my own design. No keel leeboards, water ballast and dipping lug schooner rig.
We would have needed to remove two bulkheads to do it properly, and then reinstall them. It was going to be too much so we are going to do bronze on Wisdom. Windpuff is a different story and since we are going to gut that boat completely, we will have access to build the CF chainplates correctly. I’m so excited for that part of the project!
Hull glass work appears bulletproof in good condition. I forget what the problem was. The body shop pros at Chevrolet would sometimes reconstruct a broken fender using the super glue, like putting a puzzle together. GM literally has factory super glue with a GM part number. 😊
That’s wild about the Corvettes. They weee ahead of their time using composites to save weight. The hull is thick enough to support the load because it’s over built, but I’m just adding a little extra insurance to make sure that it’s up for the task.
Hello thanks for all your videos I just Watch your videos for the first time today, so Nice videos. I still have a lot of questions so if you get to Denmark “ Maybe again” then White to me il arange Lot of diffrent stuff 😊 Maybe if you could make a video around Rolling head sails Booth mast and bom. Keep up the god work. Happy Easter. Best regards. Thomas Thomsen
Sounds like a plan! We loved our time up there but we only made it as far as The Netherlands. We were a ferry ride away from your country!! We have this video about furling sails: ua-cam.com/video/PLTDpT1TAVw/v-deo.htmlsi=B2GT6CioAlouxoYs They definitely have their place and it depends on what the boat will be used for. I love furling and at the same time, don’t like it. It really depends on what you want to do with the boat and where you will be sailing. For what we do, we chose to not have furling. For coastal sailing, furling is excellent!
Happy Easter everyone. It looks like next couple episodes of yours will be a bit boring for me because my boat is all steel (hull/deck) and my chainplates are welded on and beefy enough that I can probably lift my whole boat on it. Anyway, enjoy the project. I will peak in occasionaly to see how you guys doing. . . Cheers
I need to make my boat strong enough where your boat is already a tank! Today I’m going to beef up the port side, then it’s metal polishing to finish up the cast bronze, then install them. After that we will go back to Windpuff and keep working on connecting the transom.
Hi, there. Greetings from Brazil. Congrats about you channel. Tons of info here. Maybe you can help us. My family is planning to build a 32 feet bermudian sailboat with a 35 feet wooden keel mast. I was wondering the average force the mast will apply to the keel after tensioning the stays. I know the range could vary a lot, but we would like to know the scale we could expect. We appreciate any kind of information about that. Thanks in advance.
Why not just replace the chain plates with the same stuff that was there ? At least you would know the replacements would last about as long as the originals.
He has a ton of good info on working with polyester resin. Most of my info actually comes from a guy who had a company making fiberglass items and race boats. I find him to be an excellent resource as he has a lifetime of working with the stuff and was building boats back when Wisdom was being made!
Only a dentist would own a sailboat named Wisdom with the extraordinary feature of x-rayed chain plates. Of course you would fill any cavities with a putty layer. And we can tell you are sinking your teeth into this project, with the external x-rayed plates your crowning achievement. When you're done - Wisdom is going to smile back at you. I'm having second thoughts about posting this, but what the heck. :¬) Webhead USA
@@RiggingDoctor I love it! Perfect for Wisdom. I wonder how many cruisers at anchor seeing Wisdom and Tooth Ferry get the really creative connection. :¬) Webhead USA
Haven't you two beat the bones out that old Morgan? Don't you think it is time to upgrade, perhaps to something only 10 or 20 years old. Be happy, be safe, get a new boat.
I think the older boats are better built and safer than the newer boats. All boats need maintenance and parts changed out to keep them safe, but when well maintained, I think the older designs are better than the new designs. Doing these kinds of repairs keeps these boats alive. All boats will need this kind of work eventually so it doesn’t make sense to get a new boat every time something needs to be worked on.
@@RiggingDoctor Doc everything has a life span. You, me and boats. When a boat turns 30+ it's best days are way behind it. You end up spending money keeping a corpse going. I wish you luck, but why choose to spend your lives in the ghetto? There are some great boats out there under 10 years old that would serve you well. Be happy, be safe
I agree with Herbie, I am just buying a 45 year old boat. Around all the thru hulls the glass is over an inch thick. Around the ports it's still almost 3/4 of an inch thick. When you run aground with it it will most likely survive with very little damage. Whereas a similar new boat could easily have a big hole left behind.
@@RiggingDoctor Sorry Doc, I should drop this but but for goodness sakes I think you are off base here. Your saying you prefer a 40+ year old boat because it is better built and better desighned then newer boats. What about Island Packet? Nautor Swan? Amel? Oster? Alubat Ovni? Discovery? Hallberg-Rassy? Contest? I could go on. Get my drift Doc? Have you been hit on the head recently? Be happy, be safe
![Can X-Rays Find the Crack in our Chainplates? | Sailing Wisdom [S6 Ep9]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/F0RJnXEgOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
![Can X-Rays Find the Crack in our Chainplates? | Sailing Wisdom [S6 Ep9]](/img/tr.png)
![Converting to External Chainplates? | Sailing Wisdom [S6 Ep6]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dGTwBMgTUn0/mqdefault.jpg)
![DYNEEMA [Part 4]: Installing Synthetic Standing Rigging | Sailing Wisdom](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pVzHyC2EqoY/mqdefault.jpg)
![That's not Supposed to do that: Removing Interior Chainplates | Sailing Wisdom [S6 Ep4]](/img/n.gif)
the edit from learning, "i'm also a Dentist", to shot of grinder...the audio track took me somewhere other than boat work.
I really should make an appointment ...
Awesome job!!! Hope you guys had a great easter, too!
Thanks, it was very fun with the little one.
The project is really coming along nicely thanks to the great materials! This weekend I will get the other side of the hull glassed and ready for the plates!
You got that all done in 8 hours? That's awesome! Looked like you only had a couple days in the prep too... Gives me hope that I'll be able to handle it... I feel like I have a bunch of fiberglass in my near future, so I need to learn how to work it.
I have found that I will take as much time as I have. I only had 8 hours to work and I took 8 hours! I feel like I would have been faster if I needed to and taken longer if I could have.
The first step is actually to go over the entire surface you want to bond to with dewaxer followed by the grinder. Then put the new glass in with epoxy not polyester resin. The reason not to use polyester resin is that polyester doesn't make good secondary bonds and epoxy does. Since you used laminating resin, there was no need to rush. Also, all you needed to do to get the laminating resin to cure was to spray some polyvinyl alcohol onto the surface. That is a 2 minute job. Once the resin is fully cured you can wash the PVA off with soapy water. Also you really should have used biaxial fabric rather than woven roving.
Well what the theory tells me: bond glass to glass directly. To do so you would sand away all surface layers of the old polyester. Instead you added a layer of filler on the old resin, then came your glass, this is not really connected to the old structure, just sort of glued to the old laminate. The polyester resin is the weakest part, the only structural strengh comes from the fibers. So basically you need to build the reinforcement as strong as if it would be the only part, the hull itself...
This is not something done professionally, sorry.
These are good points. Epoxy has a much stronger bond than polyester, but it is also much more expensive. For the forces put on this area (compressive) the bond of polyester will be strong enough given the surface area it has to bond with.
As for dewaxing and grinding, that would be good to do, but this job is actually supplemental. Based on the scantiling numbers for the Morgan, the hull needs to be 3/8” thick (9mm) to support the added load of the chainplate, but the hull is already 3/4” thick (19mm). I added an additional 1/4” (6mm) to the hull to beef it up, especially the tabbing to the bulkheads where roving is preferred over biaxial due to the direction of the fibers. I then put biaxial over it at the end for the added strength that that fiber design yields, but the two layers of roving are the real work horses in the story here.
As for the rush to finish: I only had 1 day to get it done so that it would cure as one solid piece.
As for the PVA or finishing resin coat: I had been working for 8 hours without a break. My arms were done and the quick finishing coat could wait. My arms would not comply so the job ended at that stopping point.
The reason for the putty layer was to fill any voids in the surface of the old layer so that bubbles would be less likely to occur. I sanded the surface and wiped it down with acetone, but that doesn’t guarantee that a small void won’t occur between the old and new glass.
Also, a stray strand sticking up would hold up the laminate and cause an incurable air bubble!
There you go. I guy that knows his glass work. Layup with Poly but repair with epoxy every time. I was going to comment but you already said it all.
The music... Love the music.
Who, song??? Beautiful
I thought that using the small plastic cups to protect the bolts was a great idea!
The X-ray machine is good, but what I have always done is a process called Magnafluxing. It gives just x-raying a better shot at finding problems.
I will look into that!
HAPPY EASTER!! ✝️ 🙏 🙏🙏❤️❤️❤️
I'm not a fan of polyester resin, hope it works for you. Delamination is my concern.
Top notch. Why polyester over epoxy, other than cost? Asking for a friend 🙂
It’s easier to work with on big projects. The amount of working time is incredible and that makes it easier to build the layup before it sets on you.
Wishing you all a very happy Easter
Aye Captain. Would it be possible for you to make a video of the process of X-ray'ing you old chainplates?
Thanks,
Mark in Santa Clara, CA (SFO bay area)
I certainly will do that!
Wow, that's alot of great looking work!! We're in the middle of replacing a rotten bulkhead in the chain locker of our Westsail. Using 1708 and epoxy resin, have you any thoughts on using peelply? A couple of small projects have come out pretty well with it. Any thoughts, thanks for your time. Jeff and Julie s/v OoLaLa Westsail 32 hull #81
Peel ply is great for two reasons: it makes it so you don’t worry about blushing, and it gives it a smooth surface.
I'd love to see the x-rays. I'm amazed that a dental x Ray machine has the power to go through steel. As a one time industrial radiographer we used much more potent machines!
For dental with digital I have the machine set to 9 milliseconds, but with film it used to be up around 25 milliseconds.
For metals, I just crank up the settings until I can see through it :)
@@RiggingDoctor Interesting, how many kV? we used 200kV machines or gamma rays.
Great job - amazing! But with the respirator I can’t understand a word you said but that your tired and exhausted! LOL
Sorry! The fumes are so strong in there that I can’t stand a moment of it without the respirator!
I’ll use a different mic that’s closer to my mouth in the future with the respirator so that you can hear me better. The GoPro struggles to pick up the sound but the other cameras use Rode mics that hear me well and clear.
I was wondering what you would think of this. I love the dipping lug rig, but this requires an unstayed mast. Difficult to dismount because it is keel mounted. How about a mast where it only goes halfway up the mast. If you were ever dismasted, then it would likely leave you a short mast where it broke. You could also lower the mast and stow it in the length of the boat.
I don’t completely follow, but tall ships masts are actually multiple masts connected together on their way up. Maybe something like that?
@RiggingDoctor No what I mean is all the tops of all the stays being fixed at halfway up the mast. It is a hybrid between being an unstayed mast and a stayed mast. The mast could be deck mounted and because it is a dipping lug, it could be dismountable and stowed within the length of the boat. I have figured out how to make your own carbon fibre masts by the way. It's so easy and cheap. One day, I will build a boat of my own design. No keel leeboards, water ballast and dipping lug schooner rig.
I was hopping for the carbon cp ;(
Really. I thought we were already settled on that. I love the other catamaran that did it
We would have needed to remove two bulkheads to do it properly, and then reinstall them. It was going to be too much so we are going to do bronze on Wisdom.
Windpuff is a different story and since we are going to gut that boat completely, we will have access to build the CF chainplates correctly. I’m so excited for that part of the project!
@@RiggingDoctor Ok nice. i am looking forward for that. :D
Hull glass work appears bulletproof in good condition. I forget what the problem was. The body shop pros at Chevrolet would sometimes reconstruct a broken fender using the super glue, like putting a puzzle together. GM literally has factory super glue with a GM part number. 😊
That’s wild about the Corvettes. They weee ahead of their time using composites to save weight.
The hull is thick enough to support the load because it’s over built, but I’m just adding a little extra insurance to make sure that it’s up for the task.
Was that epoxy you went over? Thank you
Unrelated question ish, so many kinds of Dyneema out there, does it matter which kind of Dyneema to use for crusing standing rigging, SK78 VS dux ETC?
Hello thanks for all your videos
I just Watch your videos for the first time today, so Nice videos.
I still have a lot of questions so if you get to Denmark “ Maybe again” then White to me il arange Lot of diffrent stuff 😊
Maybe if you could make a video around Rolling head sails Booth mast and bom.
Keep up the god work.
Happy Easter.
Best regards.
Thomas Thomsen
Sounds like a plan! We loved our time up there but we only made it as far as The Netherlands. We were a ferry ride away from your country!!
We have this video about furling sails: ua-cam.com/video/PLTDpT1TAVw/v-deo.htmlsi=B2GT6CioAlouxoYs
They definitely have their place and it depends on what the boat will be used for. I love furling and at the same time, don’t like it. It really depends on what you want to do with the boat and where you will be sailing. For what we do, we chose to not have furling. For coastal sailing, furling is excellent!
Happy Easter everyone. It looks like next couple episodes of yours will be a bit boring for me because my boat is all steel (hull/deck) and my chainplates are welded on and beefy enough that I can probably lift my whole boat on it. Anyway, enjoy the project. I will peak in occasionaly to see how you guys doing. . .
Cheers
I need to make my boat strong enough where your boat is already a tank!
Today I’m going to beef up the port side, then it’s metal polishing to finish up the cast bronze, then install them. After that we will go back to Windpuff and keep working on connecting the transom.
I hope your polyester doesn't delaminate.
Me too
Hi, there. Greetings from Brazil. Congrats about you channel. Tons of info here. Maybe you can help us. My family is planning to build a 32 feet bermudian sailboat with a 35 feet wooden keel mast. I was wondering the average force the mast will apply to the keel after tensioning the stays. I know the range could vary a lot, but we would like to know the scale we could expect. We appreciate any kind of information about that. Thanks in advance.
Hello, could you email me at RiggingDr@gmail.com? There is a lot of information I will need but I can calculate that for you.
@@RiggingDoctor Thank you for your quick reply. I´ll email you soon.
Why not just replace the chain plates with the same stuff that was there ? At least you would know the replacements would last about as long as the originals.
It works well and rusts its entire life. I’m a bit tired of chipping rust and painting yearly.
you are the fasted glasser I've ever seen on youtube! hahaha
is boatworkstoday part of your research?
He has a ton of good info on working with polyester resin. Most of my info actually comes from a guy who had a company making fiberglass items and race boats. I find him to be an excellent resource as he has a lifetime of working with the stuff and was building boats back when Wisdom was being made!
👍👍👍
Only a dentist would own a sailboat named Wisdom with the extraordinary feature of x-rayed chain plates. Of course you would fill any cavities with a putty layer. And we can tell you are sinking your teeth into this project, with the external x-rayed plates your crowning achievement. When you're done - Wisdom is going to smile back at you. I'm having second thoughts about posting this, but what the heck. :¬) Webhead USA
I love it!
Don’t forget about the dinghy named Tooth Ferry
@@RiggingDoctor I love it! Perfect for Wisdom. I wonder how many cruisers at anchor seeing Wisdom and Tooth Ferry get the really creative connection. :¬) Webhead USA
Herbie, what dental school did you attend? I remember a "Herbie" from WVU who looked just like you.
That’s a crazy coincidence! I went to University of Maryland BCDS. I graduated in 2012.
Nice watch. Dont get goop on it, take it off.
Curious, is the polyester epoxy non-blush or will you need to sand it so the “finishing” epoxy adheres?
Epoxy gets the blush, polyester does not, so you don’t need to worry about that
Great job as always!!✝️🙏❤️🇺🇸⛵️👣🍍😊
Being an anti-dentite I should have picked up on you being a dentist............yada, yada.
Good video !
😂
:)
Haven't you two beat the bones out that old Morgan? Don't you think it is time to upgrade, perhaps to something only 10 or 20 years old. Be happy, be safe, get a new boat.
I think the older boats are better built and safer than the newer boats. All boats need maintenance and parts changed out to keep them safe, but when well maintained, I think the older designs are better than the new designs.
Doing these kinds of repairs keeps these boats alive. All boats will need this kind of work eventually so it doesn’t make sense to get a new boat every time something needs to be worked on.
@@RiggingDoctor Doc everything has a life span. You, me and boats. When a boat turns 30+ it's best days are way behind it. You end up spending money keeping a corpse going. I wish you luck, but why choose to spend your lives in the ghetto?
There are some great boats out there under 10 years old that would serve you well. Be happy, be safe
I agree with Herbie,
I am just buying a 45 year old boat. Around all the thru hulls the glass is over an inch thick.
Around the ports it's still almost 3/4 of an inch thick.
When you run aground with it it will most likely survive with very little damage.
Whereas a similar new boat could easily have a big hole left behind.
@@RiggingDoctor Sorry Doc, I should drop this but but for goodness sakes I think you are off base here. Your saying you prefer a 40+ year old boat because it is better built and better desighned then newer boats. What about Island Packet? Nautor Swan? Amel? Oster? Alubat Ovni? Discovery? Hallberg-Rassy? Contest? I could go on. Get my drift Doc? Have you been hit on the head recently?
Be happy, be safe