Converting to External Chainplates? | Sailing Wisdom [S6 Ep6]
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- Опубліковано 20 лип 2024
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The starboard side was built up and completed last time, now it's time to do the same thing on the port side! Herby disassembles the hanging locker on the port side of their Morgan 45-1 and builds up the hull with many layers of fiberglass to make it stronger to better support the loads that the chainplates will impart upon them.
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0:00 Intro
0:11 Breaker Bar vs Ratchet Wrench
1:19 Disassembling the Closet
2:18 Removing the Chainplates
3:00 Making Fillets
3:16 Making the Hull Thicker
5:03 Cleanup after the Fiberglass has Cured
6:39 Building is Completed
8:52 Outro
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The Six Point socket is only used because under high torque, the bolt head or nut will deform (round off the points). The six-sided socket allows the deformation load to be distributed across each entire face of the bolt, as opposed to literally scraping off the points of the bolt head/nut, into the open spaces of the Twelve Point socket head, which occurs with far less torque. That is why impact wrench sockets only come in Six Point.
Thanks for the clarification
That fiberglass Timelapse was one of the most satisfying things I’ve ever watched
Awesome, good luck! I just finished beefing up my hull and added external bronze chainplates too :)
Nice!
Hey Herb, the chainplates might be too thick, but if not, you may be able to use a vibrating multi tool to cut slots and slide the chainplates through the rubrail. It would be tedious, but it might look nicer than cutting chunks out of the rail. Best wishes.
That is exactly what I did today. It took a few hours but it looks worthwhile
I'm suspicious of polyester resin, so I'm looking forward to seeing how your boat holds up.
👍!!!(this job is in my future..got my bronze chain plates already)
Nothing is ever simple. Qudos for genning up on the intricacies of this project.
That toerail bolt won't be a problem at all... Get some long nose vise grips and clamp them on the nut, then go remove the fastener from outside. The epoxy will stop them from spinning.
This is awesome but I really can’t wait for the carbon chain plates on Windpuff
Me either! I’ve been dreaming about them while working on Wisdom
I know I'm in the minority on this one, but I have truly enjoyed watching these how-to videos. Also, the music selection during the fiberglass montage is superb. Also, may have missed this from a prior episode, but why did you decide not to do the carbon fiber chain plates?
You need an oscillating tool. It might make cutting the rub rail easier too.
I bought one and did just that. It was wonderful! Each cut took about 8 minutes
Great video!
Cut notches: Use an appropriate size drill bit. Drill a series of holes (vertical, top to bottom). Use a sharp chisel to square them up. Should be relatively easy. 😄
Great job ! Well done the rig will be bulletproof!
Nice using a brush and not a roller. I am seeing air pockets from the video, hard to say. I hope it's sturdy.
Chaineplates might need a slight angle (meaning not fully flat).
Progress is moving forward ,we'll done Herbie.
Wait until you find out about battery-powered impact wrenches . . . .
🤔
I bought a Ryobi impact wrench for my trailer lugs, but I've found many uses for it.
But even if I were using a breaker bar, I'd use impact sockets. Just because it's a six point socket doesn't mean it will handle the load.
6 point impact sockets are the strong men of the socket world.
Impact sockets aren't stronger by default. They're a softer alloy so the impact doesn't shatter them. Standard chrome sockets are stronger for non-impact work.
@@RiggingDoctor I missed your last episode, or I would have stated the same thing. The choice of the six sided socket was correct, but for stubborn fasteners, the best way to crack them is by sudden impacts rather than sustained and increasing torque, which is what you achieve with a breaker bar. Battery/pneumatic impact wrenches do this extremely well. You do have to consider what you're working on when using impact wrenches as they can cause unintentional damage. We never used them on aircraft.
Seriously strong layup there .
Nice job. Excited to see the transom project and this one.
Thanks!
I _have_ managed to bend a 3/4inch breaker bar :) Probably not on little bolts like you have though.
WOW 😮
Nice job beefing up hull. I like the thinking ahead to keep the rubrail fasteners available.
Fantastic video. a true navigation channel. Greetings from Spain.
Thank you very much!
So awesome 👌 🎉❤
Nicely done...
My favourite tool for cutting fibreglass is an oscillating multi-tool.
I used one for the first time today 😍
Great video, great progress! I plan to do the same on my boat (small Hurley 22). Do you have any hint how to calculate additional laminate thickness that should be added to the hull? Currently my chainplates (300 x 25 x 3mm stainless steel bars) are bolted with two screws to the plywood backing pads and glassed in inside. Cap shrouds are 5mm and lower shrouds are 4mm stainles steel 1x19 wire.
Loved the video
Funny story about resin and plastic melting, I bought some measuring spoons (plastic) from the shop so I could scoop out the right amount of gel coat from the can and use the right amount of hardener and that was all good, then when the can was half full I decided to leave the plastic measuring spoon in the can because I thought it would be easier not having to scrape the gel coat off of it any more. This morning I opened up the can and the black plastic spoon was a floppy black blob mixed together with the gel coat. So that's in the bin. No telling what reactions are going to happen between resin/gelcoat and random plastic lol.
Bummer! So many times I have found that the “easy way” makes a mess!
👍👍👍
Looks like, around 6:24, air gaps between the new fiberglass and hull.
There are a few spots
Looking good. Could you please drop me a comment I'm enamored with the 45' Garcia Expedition Sailboat.🤔
Less than two minutes in and you’ve given me a wealth of information you are a genius, and I look forward to the rest of the video.
Thank you! It’s all thanks to our viewers who pointed out the errors of my ways and aided me in a reformation
Protect those wires above you, run them in corrugated protection loom. I know it is just the first 3 minutes...lol....John
I should but they are just to the forward cabin lights. Nothing too major.
Modeling clay can work in place of cups.
Great tip!
Wow, you weren't messing around. That's one thick layup! You won't have to worry about strength! Are you planning to use an oscillating saw to notch the rub rails?
Yes sir. I got some really long drill bits to mark out the hole and remove as much wood as I can from the slot, and then the plan is to clean it up with the multi tool.
If the boats hull needs any major “adjustments” I plan to use the multi tool as a planer as well to flatten out any curves in the fiberglass so that the chainplate can rest flat
@@RiggingDoctor that's how I would do it!
I relocated my chainplates from being internally glassed into the walls to external mounted but I used the internal plates as a backing as well as placed new additional backing plates on the inside walls. Should I have also increased layers of glass around the walls?
It depends on what the minimum thickness needed in that area is and what thickness the hull already was.
To figure out the thickness: ua-cam.com/video/PJsOzBEuvug/v-deo.htmlsi=oPczox72TPUD-PJq
That video will explain it all to you.
Herby are you sure that you haven't inadvertently created an issue with a super strong area of the hull compared to the rest causing weka points for and aft of the newly laid up area?
That could be an issue but the rest of the hull is really thick and it’s bridging a small gap between bulkheads, so it was already really strong there by virtue of being a short unsupported length.
Question... If your chainplates are glassed into the hull like mine are (Island packet) does this (correct me if I am wrong please) but my thinking is to move them outside with a backing plate inside drilling through and sandwiching to old chainplate would transfer the load just as the original ones did without adding glass to the hull.
If the hull is already able to support the loads, there is no reason you can’t switch the position of the chainplate on the same surface (internal to external on the topsides)
Great job! Wish I didn't sweat like you don't! I'd be completely soaking wet with a rag around my head to keep the sweat out of my eyes!❤🤣🤣🤣
It helps that it is still really cold at night in Baltimore. I actually had heaters on to keep the temperature comfortable
you should try here in sub tropical Queensland... not much fun at all.
@@graeme-sailingskeptic not to much fun in Lower Alabama either! 🥵🥵🥵🥵
just curious. was your mast up while redoing the chainplates? all by itself or you attached it sideways to something?
It’s keel stepped so the mast is supported by the deck hole. I also have the staysail rigging set holding it up 3/4 of the way up.
I put halyards to the sides for fun and peace of mind, but it’s not necessary. In the winter, the rigging goes completely slack and the mast stays up because of the deck/mast interface. If this boat were deck stepped, none of this would be advisable!
What happened to Windpuff?
It’s on hold until I get the chainplates finished. As soon as I’m done here I will attach the transom
You should always have csm on each side of woven roving and roll bubbles out every couple of layers
That is true, but it was very saturated and I have gotten rather skilled with the brush at getting bubbles out. It’s a good thing because I forgot to clean my bubble roller last time and it is out of commission!
Ive Missed A lot recenty . However I can Reverse The Plan of what you both have Achieved so far ...and Hopefully Grasp the Projects beginings ,this is a long winded way of Saying I better watch the Other Videoes 🤔⛩️⚓🔩