Awesome. Thanks for posting this. Always appreciate your videos. Hoping I don't have to do this on mine some day, but good to know this is here for reference in case I do!
What do you think the issue would be if I push the start and literally nothing happens? No clicking, no noise and it just shuts everything off completely like it has a dead battery. It started clicking more n more over a few days until now, where it does nothing at all. The battery is brand new, so not that. 2017 with only 30k miles, so this is pretty annoying.
thanks for posting this my starting on mine literally went out at my daughter school today and the car is stuck there. Gonna try to tap on the starter to at least drive it home then order a replacement. If anyone is replacing a starter plz get the original oem new or used cause the one i have i purchased a advance auto part last year September and it started giving trouble a week ago and now its out completely.
helps to have 2 people, one to hit it and another to keep trying to crank it. it took a few mins of my friend beating on it with me trying to start it for it to turn over
I pushed the starter button. Heard metal breaking and falling, hitting what seemed like a metal bottom. Genesis garaged said; engine seized, cause they could not manual turn crack shaft. I took off valve covers...everything is intack. Timing chains intake. I think the flywheel broke? Taking off starter, could I see inside and evaluate flywheel?
Youd need a flexable camera to see in where youd be pulling the starter out of, you might need to suspend the engine and drop the subframe to take off the oil pan and check to see if anything is inside of it
@@GenerationGarage did you put in an exchange starter or did you have yours rebuilt ! BECAUSE you have to count the number of teeth on the pinion gear ( some call it a bendix drive ) I believe one has 9 teeth and the other has 13 or 14 teeth , it has to be the same as what came out or it will lock up the engine good luck Frank T
Wow...I tried every move and wiggle possible. I even took the heat shield off the starter and all wires. It's hitting the motor mount, so it can only moves back and forth about an inch, which stops it from coming out the starter hole.
This is probably what’s wrong with mine and it is completely fuc***. It is not going to come out. I just got this car and now I want to get rid of the fuc*** piece of sh**.
@user-qs2qj2rf8b most likely it's your issue and that was my issue If you have the 5.0 engine, you definitely have to remove tge motor mount. It will be really close like you can maneuver it out. But don't waist your time, like I did. It will not clear no matter what you do. You must remove the mounts.
So it looks like I jinxed myself with my comment a year ago on this video :-(. I think I might have a bad starter. I get an intermittent no start / no crank where I press the start button, but the car acts as if I am not holding my foot on the brake pedal (which I am)...and it just turns the accessories on. I made sure my car battery load tests fine, I replaced the battery in the key fob, I tried putting the key fob in the slot in the console, and I ensured that my brake lights turn on when I press the brake pedal in (seemingly eliminating the brake light switch as an issue). It's now NOT starting more and more frequently. I think I'm left with the starter as the most likely issue. Some questions for you: 1) Do you agree that it's likely an issue with the starter? 2) You have the right front wheel off...did you do this for better filming purposes, easier access to change the starter, or was it already off for another reason? If I have ramps, would it still be easy to change the part with the car on ramps, or do you think the ramp would be in the way? 3) You unplugged the electrical connector AFTER unbolting the starter from the car....is the space too tight to be able to remove it prior to unbolting the starter, to avoid potential strain on the wires? 4) You mentioned you had your restarter rebuilt...what kind of place does that? I only see places to BUY rebuilt ones, but not to have one rebuilt. Do you remember how long they had it for or how much it cost? 5) Is there anything you would have done differently if you had to do it all over again? Any other tips/tricks you have that maybe you forgot to mention in the video? Thanks in advance!
Sounds like a starter if your brake lights still come on, id recommend jumping the starter like I did with a wire to confirm its the starter that's dead because if not then its the break light switch. As for having the right wheel off it dose make it easier to service the starter and also allows a bit more light and movability in the area with it off, make sure you disconnect your battery BEFORE removing the starter because if you don't you could get shocked pretty bad. I'd leave the wire on till the starter comes down just because its easier to access when its lowered down just have something ready to set it on so you don't let it hang off its own wire. Also yea I have a person in my town that rebuilds starters and alternators so I took it to him to get rebuilt, it was only with him for a little over and hour and I got it back like new again for only about $150 As for tips and tricks if you decide to test the starter and jump it like I showed I'd have someone in the drivers seat to turn the ignition on and off as it will need to be in standby ACC mode to kick the starter (Wont do anything if the car isnt "on" even if its not running) just need the dash lights on. Hope this helps 😀🤙
@@GenerationGarage Thanks a lot for getting back to me. Can you explain the jumping the starter a little more to me if you have a few minutes? Maybe you can explain it to me like I'm an 8-year old, because I'm not super mechanically inclined. Is the idea that IF everything is working correctly, the starter relay "engages" when the START button is pressed in the car....so then the relay allows current to pass through to the starter, which then starts the car.....so by jumping the relay, you are simulating what the relay does. In other words, if you jump the relay, and the starter and everything is working correctly the car is supposed to start. If it DOESN'T start, you know that the issue must be the starter itself. If on the other hand, the car DOES start, you know the starter is fine, and it must be something else involved in the circuit that was preventing the car from starting by pushing the START (e.g. the brake light switch, or perhaps even the starter relay itself)? Am I on the right track here? But what if my no-start condition is intermittent, and I jump the starter relay....that might not tell me the whole story....right. Like, let's suppose theoretically that the starter correctly works / doesn't work EVERY OTHER START. So one time it works, then it doesn't, then it does, then it doesn't, and so on with that exact pattern. Let's say I'm on the "it doesn't start this time" attempt, and I try to jump it, and it doesn't start (because it's on the "it won't start this time" attempt). That would seem to correctly point me to the fact that the starter is in fact bad....so everything is good....I have correctly diagnosed the issue. BUT let's say the starter is on the "it DOES start this time" attempt. So I jump it, and it starts (but because it was on the "it DOES start this time" attempt, it would have started anyway).......but because it started, it now leads me to believe the starter is fine, and it's something else that's wrong in the system (when really, I just got "lucky" that the starter was on its "it DOES start this time" attempt). Did that make sense???? Like, might my results be somewhat inconclusive because my car is not starting INTERMITTENTLY vs not starting CONSISTENTLY? Can you explain the actual jumping procedure in a little more detail? Like which "pin slots" do I jump? Thanks!
@@rocktman81 If it starts by jumping the pins while the car is on ACC mode then the starter is most likely gonna be good, I'd test first by trying to start the car like normal first but if you get a no crank then would try jumping the replay. this would indicate if the issue is the starter or somewhere else, Also when you pull the relay out you can see 2 pins that are thicker then the other 2 so the thicker ones are the ones that carry the voltage and amps. if your standing on the passenger side of the car by the wheel its the far left pin and far right not the 2 in the center. Its a good idea to use a good thick wire to make the connection and also don't hold the wire directly as you may get shocked or burnt
Its just a normal thick wire to bridge the contacts bypassing the relay, Old metal coat hangers work great just make sure you don't get shocked holding it without insulation
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Awesome. Thanks for posting this. Always appreciate your videos. Hoping I don't have to do this on mine some day, but good to know this is here for reference in case I do!
Much easier than all other V8 contenders.
Great video. Easiest starter replacement I’ve ever done.
Nice video bought a Genesis and I was gonna flip it but I might just keep it.
What do you think the issue would be if I push the start and literally nothing happens? No clicking, no noise and it just shuts everything off completely like it has a dead battery. It started clicking more n more over a few days until now, where it does nothing at all. The battery is brand new, so not that. 2017 with only 30k miles, so this is pretty annoying.
Probably the starter then
thanks for posting this my starting on mine literally went out at my daughter school today and the car is stuck there. Gonna try to tap on the starter to at least drive it home then order a replacement. If anyone is replacing a starter plz get the original oem new or used cause the one i have i purchased a advance auto part last year September and it started giving trouble a week ago and now its out completely.
helps to have 2 people, one to hit it and another to keep trying to crank it. it took a few mins of my friend beating on it with me trying to start it for it to turn over
I need help, where is starter and my I thought it was my key fob ?
Did your brake pedal turn rock solid after the car didn’t want to start anymore? That’s what’s happened to mine.
Same here
Thats normal since the engine isnt running to create vacuum
I pushed the starter button. Heard metal breaking and falling, hitting what seemed like a metal bottom. Genesis garaged said; engine seized, cause they could not manual turn crack shaft. I took off valve covers...everything is intack. Timing chains intake. I think the flywheel broke?
Taking off starter, could I see inside and evaluate flywheel?
Youd need a flexable camera to see in where youd be pulling the starter out of, you might need to suspend the engine and drop the subframe to take off the oil pan and check to see if anything is inside of it
@@GenerationGarage damn-it; car is perfect with 90,000 miles. It's not worth fixing. Soon it will be on Ebay for parts.
@@jimjenkins1323 dang thats unfortunate
@@GenerationGarage did you put in an exchange starter or did you have yours rebuilt ! BECAUSE you have to count the number of teeth on the pinion gear ( some call it a bendix drive ) I believe one has 9 teeth and the other has 13 or 14 teeth , it has to be the same as what came out or it will lock up the engine good luck Frank T
@@06131942 Mine was rebuilt and worked fine
How you got it out? All my wires and bolts are loose, but starter has no space to move with heat sini around it.
It fits, you just need to wiggle and twist it a bit to slide it past
Wow...I tried every move and wiggle possible. I even took the heat shield off the starter and all wires. It's hitting the motor mount, so it can only moves back and forth about an inch, which stops it from coming out the starter hole.
Your motor mounts might be bad making the engine sit lower, you may be able to lift it a bit with a jack but it only fits in and out one way
This is probably what’s wrong with mine and it is completely fuc***. It is not going to come out. I just got this car and now I want to get rid of the fuc*** piece of sh**.
@user-qs2qj2rf8b most likely it's your issue and that was my issue
If you have the 5.0 engine, you definitely have to remove tge motor mount. It will be really close like you can maneuver it out. But don't waist your time, like I did. It will not clear no matter what you do. You must remove the mounts.
So it looks like I jinxed myself with my comment a year ago on this video :-(. I think I might have a bad starter. I get an intermittent no start / no crank where I press the start button, but the car acts as if I am not holding my foot on the brake pedal (which I am)...and it just turns the accessories on. I made sure my car battery load tests fine, I replaced the battery in the key fob, I tried putting the key fob in the slot in the console, and I ensured that my brake lights turn on when I press the brake pedal in (seemingly eliminating the brake light switch as an issue). It's now NOT starting more and more frequently. I think I'm left with the starter as the most likely issue. Some questions for you:
1) Do you agree that it's likely an issue with the starter?
2) You have the right front wheel off...did you do this for better filming purposes, easier access to change the starter, or was it already off for another reason? If I have ramps, would it still be easy to change the part with the car on ramps, or do you think the ramp would be in the way?
3) You unplugged the electrical connector AFTER unbolting the starter from the car....is the space too tight to be able to remove it prior to unbolting the starter, to avoid potential strain on the wires?
4) You mentioned you had your restarter rebuilt...what kind of place does that? I only see places to BUY rebuilt ones, but not to have one rebuilt. Do you remember how long they had it for or how much it cost?
5) Is there anything you would have done differently if you had to do it all over again? Any other tips/tricks you have that maybe you forgot to mention in the video?
Thanks in advance!
Sounds like a starter if your brake lights still come on, id recommend jumping the starter like I did with a wire to confirm its the starter that's dead because if not then its the break light switch.
As for having the right wheel off it dose make it easier to service the starter and also allows a bit more light and movability in the area with it off, make sure you disconnect your battery BEFORE removing the starter because if you don't you could get shocked pretty bad.
I'd leave the wire on till the starter comes down just because its easier to access when its lowered down just have something ready to set it on so you don't let it hang off its own wire.
Also yea I have a person in my town that rebuilds starters and alternators so I took it to him to get rebuilt, it was only with him for a little over and hour and I got it back like new again for only about $150
As for tips and tricks if you decide to test the starter and jump it like I showed I'd have someone in the drivers seat to turn the ignition on and off as it will need to be in standby ACC mode to kick the starter (Wont do anything if the car isnt "on" even if its not running) just need the dash lights on.
Hope this helps 😀🤙
@@GenerationGarage Thanks a lot for getting back to me. Can you explain the jumping the starter a little more to me if you have a few minutes? Maybe you can explain it to me like I'm an 8-year old, because I'm not super mechanically inclined.
Is the idea that IF everything is working correctly, the starter relay "engages" when the START button is pressed in the car....so then the relay allows current to pass through to the starter, which then starts the car.....so by jumping the relay, you are simulating what the relay does. In other words, if you jump the relay, and the starter and everything is working correctly the car is supposed to start. If it DOESN'T start, you know that the issue must be the starter itself.
If on the other hand, the car DOES start, you know the starter is fine, and it must be something else involved in the circuit that was preventing the car from starting by pushing the START (e.g. the brake light switch, or perhaps even the starter relay itself)? Am I on the right track here?
But what if my no-start condition is intermittent, and I jump the starter relay....that might not tell me the whole story....right. Like, let's suppose theoretically that the starter correctly works / doesn't work EVERY OTHER START. So one time it works, then it doesn't, then it does, then it doesn't, and so on with that exact pattern. Let's say I'm on the "it doesn't start this time" attempt, and I try to jump it, and it doesn't start (because it's on the "it won't start this time" attempt). That would seem to correctly point me to the fact that the starter is in fact bad....so everything is good....I have correctly diagnosed the issue. BUT let's say the starter is on the "it DOES start this time" attempt. So I jump it, and it starts (but because it was on the "it DOES start this time" attempt, it would have started anyway).......but because it started, it now leads me to believe the starter is fine, and it's something else that's wrong in the system (when really, I just got "lucky" that the starter was on its "it DOES start this time" attempt). Did that make sense???? Like, might my results be somewhat inconclusive because my car is not starting INTERMITTENTLY vs not starting CONSISTENTLY?
Can you explain the actual jumping procedure in a little more detail? Like which "pin slots" do I jump?
Thanks!
@@rocktman81 If it starts by jumping the pins while the car is on ACC mode then the starter is most likely gonna be good, I'd test first by trying to start the car like normal first but if you get a no crank then would try jumping the replay. this would indicate if the issue is the starter or somewhere else, Also when you pull the relay out you can see 2 pins that are thicker then the other 2 so the thicker ones are the ones that carry the voltage and amps. if your standing on the passenger side of the car by the wheel its the far left pin and far right not the 2 in the center. Its a good idea to use a good thick wire to make the connection and also don't hold the wire directly as you may get shocked or burnt
@@GenerationGarage Thanks a lot! I will give it a try!
What wire did you use to test relay
Its just a normal thick wire to bridge the contacts bypassing the relay, Old metal coat hangers work great just make sure you don't get shocked holding it without insulation
How different would it be for a 6 cyl.?
probably pretty different unfortunately
What was the motor size on this one?
4.6, same for the 5.0
Thanks for the cursing. My 5 year old was in my lap while I was watching this. 🤬😡
😂😂😂