I was taught to always pull away from the edge to sharpen any blade. The main reason being to prevent all the particulate you are grinding off not to be pushed back in to the steel of the blade. It contaminates the steel and gives a rougher edge since the particles change the grit. The idea, the basis for sharpening, it to expose a clean fresh edge pulling away until you are down to an edge that is microscopic, and therefore, sharp. And finishing with a strop bends the burr back and forth until it breaks off, leaving a perfectly clean, microscopic edge that will be sharp long after the first cut.
Grinding against the wheel rotation goes faster and creates a shorter burr, therefore when we grind bevels and remove a lot of metal, we grind into the wheel. But we deburr and hone the edge with the wheel rotation, away from the edge, as this stresses the metal less and we get a sharper apex. So, when we have to remove lots of metal, grind into the edge, but when we work on the thin edge near the apex hone away from the edge.
Hello Vadim, I was wondering what your thoughts are on the three different grit diamond wheels from Tormek and if you recommend them? Thank you in advance and I must say that your videos are the absolute best knife sharpening videos I have come across online. Thank you for all your high end and precise knowledge from Vernon BC, Canada 🇨🇦
CBN is better for grinding than diamonds. knifegrinders.com.au/11CBN.htm Tormek chose diamonds, first, because the diamonds are cheaper than CBN crystals, and second, because the word "diamonds" has more marketing power.
Hi Wadim, thank you for sharing your extensive knowledge about knife sharpening! Didn’t Tormek choose the diamonds so it is possible to sharpen also Carbide? Because Carbide doesn’t sharpen very well on CBN?!
@@manr.9106 That is correct. Carbide will wreck a CBN wheel. Carbide scrapers and some inserts are best sharpened on a diamond wheel. CBN is good for high-speed grinding. Diamond is for slow speed grinding.
Interesting, I am currently trying to find a way to thin fast behind the edge knives. Looks I could use the side of that wheel to avoid using a belt grinder. You think one can freehand on the side of the wheel to thin the primary bevel of San mai forged knives?
Great result -I’m sure the customer will be so pleased! Have you noticed any effect of the jig protrusion when sharpening on the side? In other words does it matter where the edge contacts the wheel in the vertical axis? Loved the casual 33 BESS at the end, with no reaction. In my workshop there would have been fireworks and dancing :)
Thanks Brad. This is a training knife, not a customer's. The jig protrusion has no effect on the quality of the grind. Yet in the Tormek MB-100 booklet a knife is clamped in the knife jig with the shortest protrusion, probably because the grinding goes faster at the rim of the wheel compared to its centre. I think I could improve sharpness at the tip segment by giving it more stropping, just the video was not about stropping.
thanks for your videos. I see that you have the fixing knobs on the MB-100 facing down. You can screw them off and put them from the top side. It’s written in the manual.
How much we charge for single-bevel Japanese? Depends. When we can quickly polish the primary bevel on a buffer, and grind only the edge bevel, we charge $15. When we have to re-grind the primary bevel, we may charge $30. This is less than others charge - for prices in Sydney Australia see www.chefsarmoury.com/pages/knife-sharpening-service
Keep up the great work. Always enjoy your uploads, though it only makes me wish you were still shipping to the uk haha. Any advice on small blades? I still seem to find problems with centring the blade with the small jig
The SVM-140 knife jig got in the way and prevented the entire original bevel from making contact with the wheel. You can probably fashion a knife holder jig using strong neodymium magnets to hold the knife on the other side and eliminate this clearance problem.
this is actually a great idea, since you only sharpen one side, I have many requests for japanese knives, I will take this into consideration. Thank you :)
Thank you so much for your fast reply, can you please post a link where I can sign up to be on the list for a kangaroo leather tail strop? Thanks again.
Thank you for the inspiring video. I observed that since some time you are using the old style knife fulcrum on the sharpness tester and not the new type. Is there a reason for it?
Good idea but why does a double-edged blade not work this way? Does not work does not exist 😎 The cbn wheel (or a second cbn wheel) on the side with the leather wheel. Then it is exactly the mirror of the grinding work !? Or do I have a mistake in my thinking ? By the way, i like your videos a lot Learned a lot from it. Keep it up please ! Many greetings, from Germany , Markus
What I meant is that you shouldn't try to sharpen double-bevel knives with the MB-100. We do sharpen double-bevel knives on the sides of our CBN wheel, but using a different attachment with guides.
firstly that's not made to use on the standard stones it's designed for the diamond wheel, and as the son of a chef personally i know i prefer a hollow grind over a flat grind, the edge is much faster and a much lower final angle at the edge and my father prefers it too, i also like a hollow better because in the even that i need to use the honing rod, it only takes 4 passes and there's a slight bevel in the very tips of the hollow
Vielen Dank. Explained and demonstrated by a Craftsman. So many unseen support tools.
Einstein of sharpeners
I was taught to always pull away from the edge to sharpen any blade. The main reason being to prevent all the particulate you are grinding off not to be pushed back in to the steel of the blade. It contaminates the steel and gives a rougher edge since the particles change the grit. The idea, the basis for sharpening, it to expose a clean fresh edge pulling away until you are down to an edge that is microscopic, and therefore, sharp. And finishing with a strop bends the burr back and forth until it breaks off, leaving a perfectly clean, microscopic edge that will be sharp long after the first cut.
Grinding against the wheel rotation goes faster and creates a shorter burr, therefore when we grind bevels and remove a lot of metal, we grind into the wheel. But we deburr and hone the edge with the wheel rotation, away from the edge, as this stresses the metal less and we get a sharper apex.
So, when we have to remove lots of metal, grind into the edge, but when we work on the thin edge near the apex hone away from the edge.
Hello Vadim, I was wondering what your thoughts are on the three different grit diamond wheels from Tormek and if you recommend them? Thank you in advance and I must say that your videos are the absolute best knife sharpening videos I have come across online. Thank you for all your high end and precise knowledge from Vernon BC, Canada 🇨🇦
CBN is better for grinding than diamonds. knifegrinders.com.au/11CBN.htm
Tormek chose diamonds, first, because the diamonds are cheaper than CBN crystals, and second, because the word "diamonds" has more marketing power.
Hi Wadim, thank you for sharing your extensive knowledge about knife sharpening!
Didn’t Tormek choose the diamonds so it is possible to sharpen also Carbide?
Because Carbide doesn’t sharpen very well on CBN?!
@@manr.9106 That is correct. Carbide will wreck a CBN wheel. Carbide scrapers and some inserts are best sharpened on a diamond wheel.
CBN is good for high-speed grinding. Diamond is for slow speed grinding.
Hi Vadim, superb like always. I true the side of my sg wheel on a Veritas tempered glass with silicon powder. It's a lot of work but it works.
Interesting, I am currently trying to find a way to thin fast behind the edge knives. Looks I could use the side of that wheel to avoid using a belt grinder. You think one can freehand on the side of the wheel to thin the primary bevel of San mai forged knives?
What is thé name of thé wheel you are using ?? Thank you . André Québec Canada
Great result -I’m sure the customer will be so pleased! Have you noticed any effect of the jig protrusion when sharpening on the side? In other words does it matter where the edge contacts the wheel in the vertical axis?
Loved the casual 33 BESS at the end, with no reaction. In my workshop there would have been fireworks and dancing :)
Thanks Brad. This is a training knife, not a customer's.
The jig protrusion has no effect on the quality of the grind. Yet in the Tormek MB-100 booklet a knife is clamped in the knife jig with the shortest protrusion, probably because the grinding goes faster at the rim of the wheel compared to its centre.
I think I could improve sharpness at the tip segment by giving it more stropping, just the video was not about stropping.
thanks for your videos. I see that you have the fixing knobs on the MB-100 facing down. You can screw them off and put them from the top side. It’s written in the manual.
Thank you, I have the knobs down not to be in the way of the AngleCube when I put it on the base.
Your camera man is very good
Great work. How much did you charge the customer for this knife?
How much we charge for single-bevel Japanese? Depends. When we can quickly polish the primary bevel on a buffer, and grind only the edge bevel, we charge $15. When we have to re-grind the primary bevel, we may charge $30. This is less than others charge - for prices in Sydney Australia see www.chefsarmoury.com/pages/knife-sharpening-service
Keep up the great work. Always enjoy your uploads, though it only makes me wish you were still shipping to the uk haha.
Any advice on small blades? I still seem to find problems with centring the blade with the small jig
The SVM-140 knife jig got in the way and prevented the entire original bevel from making contact with the wheel. You can probably fashion a knife holder jig using strong neodymium magnets to hold the knife on the other side and eliminate this clearance problem.
this is actually a great idea, since you only sharpen one side, I have many requests for japanese knives, I will take this into consideration. Thank you :)
Thank you so much for your fast reply, can you please post a link where I can sign up to be on the list for a kangaroo leather tail strop? Thanks again.
just email us
Thank you for the inspiring video. I observed that since some time you are using the old style knife fulcrum on the sharpness tester and not the new type. Is there a reason for it?
I do not like the wider slot of the new fulcrum. The narrow slot in the older one helps me keep the blade perpendicular to the test line.
Good idea but why does a double-edged blade not work this way?
Does not work does not exist 😎
The cbn wheel (or a second cbn wheel) on the side with the leather wheel.
Then it is exactly the mirror of the grinding work !?
Or do I have a mistake in my thinking ?
By the way, i like your videos a lot
Learned a lot from it. Keep it up please !
Many greetings, from Germany , Markus
What I meant is that you shouldn't try to sharpen double-bevel knives with the MB-100.
We do sharpen double-bevel knives on the sides of our CBN wheel, but using a different attachment with guides.
@@knifegrindersaustralia5158 thanks for the answer
Wow nice job
firstly that's not made to use on the standard stones it's designed for the diamond wheel, and as the son of a chef personally i know i prefer a hollow grind over a flat grind, the edge is much faster and a much lower final angle at the edge and my father prefers it too, i also like a hollow better because in the even that i need to use the honing rod, it only takes 4 passes and there's a slight bevel in the very tips of the hollow
Fair enough!
Hope you're not putting single bevel knives on a hone.
Can you ship a kangaroo strop and. rock hard felt wheel to me in Canada?
I can when we have them. Please email to get to the waiting list.
Why can't you do this with a regular stone?
Because after grinding some quantity of blades the stone side will wear and there is no way to true it properly. Actually this is how Tormek explains.
Japanese wheel grind number
1 side only
Wow!
This guy don’t know Japanese knife 👎
still he ended up with a pretty good result