Thank you-thank you! Been chasing a very similar problem on my older Sienna and think you're spot on. Different years but evidently similar AC systems.
If you were at the dealer service, and diagnosed an intermittent open wire or connector like that, your service manager would want that car up on the lift, the covers removed, the belt off, and the compressor positioned to inspect if the wire or wire end inside the plastic hardshell connector was damaged, loose, or fit poorly. If you can provide a ground with a jump wire substituted, and it works without an a/c issue or noise, you repair the wire. That's the difference between getting labor to solve the issue versus replacing half the system for the sake of the parts cannon. Now if there's a bulletin, it might specify which is the known to fail part. It could also be a bulletin that provides a part number for a repair connector or the field coil. You should try by inspection, to fix it. If you don't have to replace half the system, then don't. Overselling on ac is what mechanics get accused of sometimes, it's because once you breach the system refrigerant, a bunch of issues are created. Just don't. If there's a good reason during the inspection to repair, then that would change things. Like a cracked field coil, or broken connector on the body of the field coil. When I did these, we identified piece by piece and parts price by price, then management decided with who was paying. That's the best medicine. You can do whatever you like, of course.
Dang. Replaced a perfectly good compressor just because of a loose wire. That sucks. Hopefully they will rebuilt the "old" unit and resell it. Great video, though sir!
Great job,I do this all day everyday,people don't realize how much goes in to diagnosis a A/C problem,just today I fixed a Dodge and a Chevy Traverse with bad TIPM's,no power to the a/c relay's,just remember don't overlook the basics,lol..
I just love your no nonsence logical troubleshooting. Im not a car guy but i work with computers and ive come to realize troubleshooting is a skill that transends fields. As long as you canbreak the problem down logically.
Eric, I hope you're doing extremely well down in the great state of Texas! I've been binge watching all your past videos and am learning so many great things from you. Thank you!
You did an excellent job with the video. It looked and sounded great. I enjoyed how you went through step by step to show everybody what is going on. Not too fast not too slow. Perfect Great job
Hi,it happened to me but with a new compressor from Nissan, I went to an other shop to diagnostic, and find out the female terminal was to open,I did closed them,everything works after that..nice information.
Great diagnostic path!! Good to c the Launch. I Think Launch is getting jealous of all the attention Think is getting. I have the Diagun. So far I don’t c the need to buy the Think. Both seem to b excellent tools.
A very common problem with Toyota is the relay for the clutch, often the horn relay is the same, I swap them and the ac starts working, I try that soon as I verify there's enough freon in the system and compressor clutch doesn't engage
Goodmorning brother , Thank you , really appreciate the information and knowledge. I have a 2002 Sienna and same issue. I believe it may be the same. The belt squeaks when I turn on the ac as the car runs , hoping it isn’t a greater issue. Best regards ✊🏽🙏🏼
absolutely amazing video, just one question, when using bi directional mode on scan tool on ac clutch, i believe it should be done with KOEO and essentially you are only looking for relay click
Im having same problem with 2011 sienna, but this one has an integrated relay for the A/c , wish me luck 😅 . Great video, you make everything look easier.
@@Moturd 3 things were bad, the A/C amplifier, it's location is under the globe box, the integrated relay, it's location front fuse box. And the sensor located on top of the sensor.
When the big bad ass tech says, "what the hell"!!?😁. You're my new favorite. Logic is misleading, too often it's not what you know, it's what you can figure out.
That sienna has the outdated mag clutch relay, toyota came out with a different relay which was Grey in color. The old off white color relay overheats and shuts down the a.c. system.. common on all camrys older corollas and siennas
Great video. I have a 2017 Highlander XLE and a fw years ago my A/c wasn't blowing cool air so I took it to the dealership. My understanding was that they checked everything and then put in some sealant with a UV dye. What they didn't tell me was to bring in back in so they could use a black light or whatever it is to see the dye if that is the logical next step. Th A/c worked fine for th next year and a half but last September the A/C wasn't blowing cold air again. I had noticed a slight "smell" inside the vehicle occasionally while using the A/C for the month or 2 before that. What's a real pain in the a$$ is that the refrigerant used in the 2017 Highlander is R134a which was banned from being sold in Canada back in 2020!!!! Now what? I was going to try a recharge kit but like I said R134a is no long sold here. I'm beginning to think that the Toyota Tech who was probably fairly new didn't take the steps that you showed here ( the Tech who worked on a previous Toyota had over 38 years in when he retired back in 2016 ). Some random non- Toyota guy said that I would have to replace everything in the A/C system to be able to use the " new " refrigerants. Is this true?
on the diagram showing pin 5 is power from fuse and pin 3 goes to ac clutch and in the video you are on pin5, but diagram you using is for tacoma so maybe in sienna 3 and 5 are switched
My sienna doesn't blow that cold when idling, but when I get up to a consistent speed above say 45 mph for any length of time, starts to blow cold; makes me think it's the EcoBoost getting in the way. Thoughts?
last time i had that code set, it was on that model year sienna, i had a pin fitment issue at the connector by the passenger kickpanel, then i found the clutch and coil was replaced by the last toyota dealer for the same code(NOTHING TO DO WITH THE CLUTCH AND COIL ON THE DIAGRAM), so then i had to replace the clutch and coil because the clutch/coil wire was rubbed through due to improper installation
Same intermittent issue in my 2007 Lexus es350. Toyota uses the same compressor in matrix, sienna, and Lexus models. Same exact connector issue as in the vid. In my case the connecter melted together(ac still kicks on somehow). Im getting the ac control valve (eBay 50$) AND the pigtail connecter (22$) changed out. Shop originally wanted to replace whole compressor (600$, not including labor)
Help!! 2011 Sienna not cold air on driver side front to back (xle with dual control) but right passenger side is cool but not cold. Actuator motor on driver side is fine. R235a pressure on low side is spot on using two guages. High side is low though at 100 or less running or not. Could it be an expansion valve or what? Compressor cuts on but does not cycle very often.
@heyradchad actuator motor on left was definitely bad. Had to order a junkyard unit...worked fine...was a beeeotch to install getting teeth to line up...only took 89 attempts
I have 99 toyota camry that does the samething i was cheking it the other day and noticed that when i spun the clutch with a screwdriver it would kick on now i just turn it off and on untill it kicks in...im going to che the wires next i was already going to order a new clitch...
i have a 2011, but there's not even a relay in that spot. It doesn't say MG CLT on my diagram, it just says "PTC HTR NO.3". But my "A/C On" light does flash at times - not all the time, when i press the AC button a few times, it will toggle On to Off, etc. but remains on when I leave it On.
Same here, mine doesn’t have an a/c magnetic relay either. AC turns off rarely. I have noticed it doesn’t blow very cold air. I have a neighbor that has 2003 sienna and his air is much colder than my sienna.
Agreed, those clutch coils are as close to crap as they can get them. They aren't built robust enough therefore not able to weather through the ambient heat including the electrical load heat generated when operating. I've seen many of them burned and overheated yet the compressor is still 100% good and in many cases, only 6 months old rendering the repair to involve a complete compressor replacement vs. just the coil for $40.
Because my Lexus was a 97, it wasn’t worth replacing expensive parts, as a temporary fix, I raised the idle to 950ish to solve my ac problem but I would not recommend doing it on a car you plan to keep for a long time. I ended up selling my Lexus a year later.
Great video Eric, isn't there a AC clutch speed sensors that monitors the RPM of clutch and if it differs from Crank RPM it detects a 'locked clutch' and cutoff the AC clutch relay, therefore disengaging the clutch ? Thanks.
Great video!. I have the same van (2011) and my ac is not really cold , I say 60% cold only.. they say it may be the condenser or evaporator clogged .. any idea I would really appreciate you. 👍
Also when I turn the ac on , right before start cooling poorly smells really bad from the vents . This is why it makes me believe the evaporator is bad
I’m literally having the same issue in my Lexus es350 I’ve known it’s the connector I just haven’t gotten it fixed. It’s crazy how my car has the same exact problem. I was actually finally taking it to the mechanic today too…
Honest technician ❤️
replacing only the faulty part
Awesome problem solving , a methodical approach with logic , nicely done
Your son will always remember,going to work with dad.. keep up the good work.. I always like your videos .
Liked a lot how you test: circuit+relay+compressor+power signal. Brilliant!
Thank you-thank you! Been chasing a very similar problem on my older Sienna and think you're spot on. Different years but evidently similar AC systems.
Thanks for the great support. My a/c was working, then not, then was....such drama.
I honestly appreciate all these a/c diag/fix videos you’ve been putting out. 🙌🏾🙌🏾🙌🏾🙌🏾🙌🏾
If you were at the dealer service, and diagnosed an intermittent open wire or connector like that, your service manager would want that car up on the lift, the covers removed, the belt off, and the compressor positioned to inspect if the wire or wire end inside the plastic hardshell connector was damaged, loose, or fit poorly.
If you can provide a ground with a jump wire substituted, and it works without an a/c issue or noise, you repair the wire.
That's the difference between getting labor to solve the issue versus replacing half the system for the sake of the parts cannon.
Now if there's a bulletin, it might specify which is the known to fail part.
It could also be a bulletin that provides a part number for a repair connector or the field coil.
You should try by inspection, to fix it.
If you don't have to replace half the system, then don't.
Overselling on ac is what mechanics get accused of sometimes, it's because once you breach the system refrigerant, a bunch of issues are created.
Just don't.
If there's a good reason during the inspection to repair, then that would change things.
Like a cracked field coil, or broken connector on the body of the field coil.
When I did these, we identified piece by piece and parts price by price, then management decided with who was paying.
That's the best medicine.
You can do whatever you like, of course.
ERIC, AWESOME logic approach to find the problem thanks for sharing.
Bro did not stutter while he was working. Just spitting out info non stop
I always hate when stuff starts working and you have to figure out what you touched to make it do that.
Dang. Replaced a perfectly good compressor just because of a loose wire. That sucks. Hopefully they will rebuilt the "old" unit and resell it. Great video, though sir!
Very good! My exact problem and I do not yet know where my continuity problem exists, but I know how to find out. Thanks!
thanks for not wasting time -- you get right to it.
Great job,I do this all day everyday,people don't realize how much goes in to diagnosis a A/C problem,just today I fixed a Dodge and a Chevy Traverse with bad TIPM's,no power to the a/c relay's,just remember don't overlook the basics,lol..
It was a bad relay all along, when you replaced the TIPM, you also replaced that relay so you thought it was the TIPM that fixed it.
Very thorough explanation of this sometimes intermittent problem in the Sienna vans
I just love your no nonsence logical troubleshooting. Im not a car guy but i work with computers and ive come to realize troubleshooting is a skill that transends fields. As long as you canbreak the problem down logically.
Bro! You explain good enough for doing that repair!! Thanks for the tip!!
Eric, I hope you're doing extremely well down in the great state of Texas! I've been binge watching all your past videos and am learning so many great things from you. Thank you!
You did an excellent job with the video. It looked and sounded great. I enjoyed how you went through step by step to show everybody what is going on. Not too fast not too slow. Perfect Great job
Sweet, AC troubleshooting!! Gotta have that AC in South Texas!! That AC manifold looks sketchy. Great step by step process!!!
Thanks 👍
Eric I watch every single video you have helped me a lot and I appreciate it very much!
Hi,it happened to me but with a new compressor from Nissan, I went to an other shop to diagnostic, and find out the female terminal was to open,I did closed them,everything works after that..nice information.
Excellent video - had an identical issue. Thank you.
Great diagnostic path!! Good to c the Launch. I Think Launch is getting jealous of all the attention Think is getting. I have the Diagun. So far I don’t c the need to buy the Think. Both seem to b excellent tools.
Replaced the compressor clutch on my 04 Mini. Ebay had the clutch for $29. Mini wanted $900 to replace the compressor
Viewing from a shop owner POV they will always replace the compressor..
Have fun replacing it again soon. 😂🤣 eBay parts. 🥴🥴🥴
Awesome diagnosis! Keep up the good work bro!!!
A very common problem with Toyota is the relay for the clutch, often the horn relay is the same, I swap them and the ac starts working, I try that soon as I verify there's enough freon in the system and compressor clutch doesn't engage
thank you bro. very helpful info video and very clear explaining ☝🏽☝🏽☝🏽☝🏽❤❤❤
Toyota is one of the few brands that even monitor the ac ckt, the blinking ac light was caused by the ac codes
Goodmorning brother , Thank you , really appreciate the information and knowledge.
I have a 2002 Sienna and same issue. I believe it may be the same. The belt squeaks when I turn on the ac as the car runs , hoping it isn’t a greater issue. Best regards ✊🏽🙏🏼
Thank u my boss (A.L.A) for your diagnosis, good work.Habib Auto warching u all day way from Ghana Accra West Africa
Thanks Eric for sharing your videos and knowledge. Stay safe and well Artie 👍
Very professional!
Good job Sr. Thanks!
Thank you for the information.
absolutely amazing video, just one question, when using bi directional mode on scan tool on ac clutch, i believe it should be done with KOEO and essentially you are only looking for relay click
Always a thumbs up from me bro! Great diag and straight to the point!
Very useful video.those sienna compressor have sensors on them i like one or 2 wire compressors siennas always problem with ac and front end
Im having same problem with 2011 sienna, but this one has an integrated relay for the A/c , wish me luck 😅 .
Great video, you make everything look easier.
Did you figure it out? Having same problem
@@Moturd yes ,
@@Moturd 3 things were bad, the A/C amplifier, it's location is under the globe box, the integrated relay, it's location front fuse box. And the sensor located on top of the sensor.
@@kingdom5048 cool thanks for the info man. I think I have other problems.
how do i remove the integrated relay? just pull it out?
Great work Eric keep in bringing more videos love your videos. very entertaining.
Very good diagnostics process :) good video
Thanks for the visit
Thanks, I fix the same mini van with the same problem, but th problem whose a the flow sensor
Great video Eric! Keep them coming, your troubleshooting skills are awesome!
Great help this worked for me
When the big bad ass tech says, "what the hell"!!?😁. You're my new favorite. Logic is misleading, too often it's not what you know, it's what you can figure out.
Thanks for the diagnosis Eric! Honorably seen is the Viper! lol
Great explanation! Thanks.
Summer is here🔥
Done really well. Thanks
Awesome vídeo.
Always look forward to your vídeos
Great video man 👍
Thank you! I appreciate it!
Great video
Great diagnostic video .
can you show how to replace a passenger blend door actuator please
That sienna has the outdated mag clutch relay, toyota came out with a different relay which was Grey in color. The old off white color relay overheats and shuts down the a.c. system.. common on all camrys older corollas and siennas
Good info. thanks
Relay?
Usually touching or tapping them fixes it for a little while.
What kind of scanner is that?
Denso AC Amplifier control module under dash behind glove box
Great video. I have a 2017 Highlander XLE and a fw years ago my A/c wasn't blowing cool air so I took it to the dealership. My understanding was that they checked everything and then put in some sealant with a UV dye. What they didn't tell me was to bring in back in so they could use a black light or whatever it is to see the dye if that is the logical next step. Th A/c worked fine for th next year and a half but last September the A/C wasn't blowing cold air again. I had noticed a slight "smell" inside the vehicle occasionally while using the A/C for the month or 2 before that. What's a real pain in the a$$ is that the refrigerant used in the 2017 Highlander is R134a which was banned from being sold in Canada back in 2020!!!! Now what? I was going to try a recharge kit but like I said R134a is no long sold here. I'm beginning to think that the Toyota Tech who was probably fairly new didn't take the steps that you showed here ( the Tech who worked on a previous Toyota had over 38 years in when he retired back in 2016 ). Some random non- Toyota guy said that I would have to replace everything in the A/C system to be able to use the " new " refrigerants. Is this true?
on the diagram showing pin 5 is power from fuse and pin 3 goes to ac clutch and in the video you are on pin5, but diagram you using is for tacoma so maybe in sienna 3 and 5 are switched
My sienna doesn't blow that cold when idling, but when I get up to a consistent speed above say 45 mph for any length of time, starts to blow cold; makes me think it's the EcoBoost getting in the way. Thoughts?
Your coil condensor may need a real good cleaning with some coil cleaner thrn a good hose down with soapy then plain water.
Thanks for the great lesson man 🍺 🍺 🍺
Thanks for watching!
Great video, Thanks for sharing👍
last time i had that code set, it was on that model year sienna, i had a pin fitment issue at the connector by the passenger kickpanel, then i found the clutch and coil was replaced by the last toyota dealer for the same code(NOTHING TO DO WITH THE CLUTCH AND COIL ON THE DIAGRAM), so then i had to replace the clutch and coil because the clutch/coil wire was rubbed through due to improper installation
Wonder how much dealerships charges to fix this ?
Same intermittent issue in my 2007 Lexus es350. Toyota uses the same compressor in matrix, sienna, and Lexus models. Same exact connector issue as in the vid. In my case the connecter melted together(ac still kicks on somehow). Im getting the ac control valve (eBay 50$) AND the pigtail connecter (22$) changed out. Shop originally wanted to replace whole compressor (600$, not including labor)
Nice job
Thanks!
Genius!
Help!! 2011 Sienna not cold air on driver side front to back (xle with dual control) but right passenger side is cool but not cold. Actuator motor on driver side is fine. R235a pressure on low side is spot on using two guages. High side is low though at 100 or less running or not. Could it be an expansion valve or what? Compressor cuts on but does not cycle very often.
Did you ever find a solution? I have the exact same issue.
@heyradchad actuator motor on left was definitely bad. Had to order a junkyard unit...worked fine...was a beeeotch to install getting teeth to line up...only took 89 attempts
How much was the compressor? Every mechanic I spoke to about my AC probation wanted to replace the compressor.
My dad would be like "u cant pull it !!!!" Pull! got dam it " then id be crying and then mom would start drama over it LOL
I have 99 toyota camry that does the samething i was cheking it the other day and noticed that when i spun the clutch with a screwdriver it would kick on now i just turn it off and on untill it kicks in...im going to che the wires next i was already going to order a new clitch...
i have a 2011, but there's not even a relay in that spot. It doesn't say MG CLT on my diagram, it just says "PTC HTR NO.3". But my "A/C On" light does flash at times - not all the time, when i press the AC button a few times, it will toggle On to Off, etc. but remains on when I leave it On.
Same here, mine doesn’t have an a/c magnetic relay either. AC turns off rarely. I have noticed it doesn’t blow very cold air. I have a neighbor that has 2003 sienna and his air is much colder than my sienna.
Great job
I think I just saw the viper, from purple reign.
Good Job..
Agreed, those clutch coils are as close to crap as they can get them. They aren't built robust enough therefore not able to weather through the ambient heat including the electrical load heat generated when operating. I've seen many of them burned and overheated yet the compressor is still 100% good and in many cases, only 6 months old rendering the repair to involve a complete compressor replacement vs. just the coil for $40.
Please can someone tells me the name of the computer diagnosis he is using
Thanks
Yeah Lon my Lexus es300, the ac would flash if the idle is super low. When I turn it off, rev to 1000, the ac will work as normal
Because my Lexus was a 97, it wasn’t worth replacing expensive parts, as a temporary fix, I raised the idle to 950ish to solve my ac problem but I would not recommend doing it on a car you plan to keep for a long time. I ended up selling my Lexus a year later.
So cool Eric, no pun intended, lol!!!
😁
Damn dude. This isn’t your first rodeo. 👍
How is the Viper doing Eric ?. Would be nice if you could do an update.
Hi,nice video..
Great video Eric, isn't there a AC clutch speed sensors that monitors the RPM of clutch and if it differs from Crank RPM it detects a 'locked clutch' and cutoff the AC clutch relay, therefore disengaging the clutch ? Thanks.
Does the AC not work if the door is open ?
Just have a question for u what scanner do u recommend the most
So where do I buy the refrigerant ?
What happens if there’s not electricity only for the fan but no for the a/c compressor???
Great video!. I have the same van (2011) and my ac is not really cold , I say 60% cold only.. they say it may be the condenser or evaporator clogged .. any idea I would really appreciate you. 👍
Also when I turn the ac on , right before start cooling poorly smells really bad from the vents . This is why it makes me believe the evaporator is bad
welldone , 👏 🙏 👌 🫵 🫶 yout video . Thank you for sharing your knowledge . awesome 🦅 🦅 🦅
Grasias y saludos
Why would it not turn the AC compressor on if the engine is too hot or too cold
If engine is too hot (maybe loss of coolant), computer tries to reduce load on the engine.
@@gaad7938 Thank you
Let do it the Lopez way.. Runing a speaker wire from the battery over to the compressor power connector screw.. 🙄😅😅😅😅
I’m literally having the same issue in my Lexus es350 I’ve known it’s the connector I just haven’t gotten it fixed. It’s crazy how my car has the same exact problem. I was actually finally taking it to the mechanic today too…
When it would stop working and I would wiggle the wires and it would work for a month
I just finished watching the vid… I think i’m going to change the wire connecter and solder a new one AND replace the connecter
If im correct toyota owns lexus.
@@placasowuicho967 correct. Due to my car having the same exact issue as this sienna I think it’s the same compressor/wire connector
I was right, same part numbers and everything haha, I’m changing out the connecter and part instead of buying a new compressor
June and July is the worse possible months for your AC to stop working
Hi can you help me with my 2008 toyota avalon cooling fan not working new cooling fan and new cooling fan ecu it still wont work
Love your videos. Wish i have where i can contact you so i can talk to you, have a couple of questions and doubts.
GREAT
Just replace the flow sensor of the compressor $30. Get it from China. Dealer doesn’t have it. They want you to buy the whole compressor