Hey Guys! I just wanted to add that you can also do a resistance measurement using an ohm meter to test the control valve. I did not film this procedure because I was not sure of a specification. After comparing the old valve with the new one, I found that they both measure to about 10 ohms. That seems to be normal. The resistance measurement test can tell you if the valve is faulty electronically but not mechanically. The valve plunger could still be sticking even though the magnet is working fine.
I heard through my research that you can put a balloon over part of the end of the valve and blow it up and if it deflates with power given to the valve then it is bad and if it doesn't deflate then it is good....basically testing to make sure when power is given to it, it opens correctly and is not stuck where it doesn't fully open....you could also breathe through it using something that fits around it
Hi, exellent video. Thanks for posting. By the way there is a tool to test the duty cycle of the compressor. It is expensive but you don't have to guess what the problem is. It even allows you to test the resistance on the valve, no need to get the multimeter out.
Thank you for actually posting this. 2 years later and you just saved me hella money on replacing my compressor AND gave me the false confidence I needed to try and do this myself 😅
I love you man and you are a master mechanic and I am a shadetree mechanic with a degree in Chem Eng. The static pressure of the refrigerant doesn't tell much. Much of the refrigerant is liquid and the pressure is determined only by the ambient temperature when the car is shut off and cold. The pressure will stay the same until all of the liquid has evaporated and then if more is lost, the pressure will stop dropping. For example, if you had a gauge on a can of refrigerant, the pressure will remain the same until all of the liquid has evaporated and then it will stop dropping. Great diagnosis by the way!
Great info! For my purposes, I look at the static pressure because that’s what the cars computer is looking at to determine whether or not it should turn the compressor on. If the A/C pressure sensor is reading low pressure then the compressor will not activate. Thanks for watching!
You know you are serious about your work with a garage floor like that (epoxy)! Cleaner than the plates I eat off of. Another great video! These are the best videos to post...the real world issues and headaches that happen to technicians and DIYrs. Thanks!
Excellent video. A lot of people don't understand that you often have to do some trial and error to make the repair. AC work diagnosis is an art and a science, along with a lot of experience and the right tools. Nice job.
I'm glad you did post this video. It was very informative. When everything goes exactly as planned, you don't really learn anything new. It's when things go sideways that you discover and learn. God bless!
From simple to some of the list complicated issues you make them all seem quite easy bro! I commend you on all you do for the automotive community and I’m sure ppl who take the time to watch your videos who are not techs/mechanics can appreciate and take something away from your content as well! Thanks Eric!
Here's my theory: The original root cause of the poor A/C performance was the sticking temperature door, which you solved. However, previously another mechanic simply shot the parts cannon and replaced the compressor with that aftermarket unit. The aftermarket compressor is a cheap knock-off, so it failed early. That brought the customer to you. Chrysler has used Denso compressors for a while (the same manufacturer associated with Toyota), so likely the parts changer mechanic caused the customer additional grief with inferior parts by not doing a thorough diagnosis. Lots of compressors get changed for no good reason, aside from the fact that the mechanic does a bad diagnosis. That's likely why the cost is so high. The replacement valve would likely have worked in an OE compressor. I'm sure your friend appreciates that you were able to fix the problem. Keep up the good work!
I don’t know why every time I see you post a new video a get really excited!!!! It’s really nice to see that every-time I watch your videos I learn something new ….. nice job parcero keep it up!!!!
Great diagnosis and fix Eric! I do the same looking for the best possible and affordable solution to fix my friends vehicles. In this case, replacing the compressor assembly is the best case scenario and avoiding other cooling problems. Cheers!
Hey mad respect to you we don’t win them all on the first diagnosis. We learn from our mistakes you can’t be scared to try in life. This is a Amazing video I appreciate the time which will save the next guy some time.
I understand trying to save a friend some money but that was a risk that I wouldn't be willing to take. I would have called a compressor over giving him the option. If you give ANYONE a option they will always choose the cheapest route even if it's not the correct option. Great video. Jeeps are money pits 🤣
I love the work you do on jeeps...based on what you did I'm going to replace the compressor on my 2012 jeep liberty...you're a true professional...thanks!
Thank you for this video. Your right about ANY Chrysler product, especially a used one. Newer vehicles have that full time on with the control valve. Some have the clutch with the RPM pickup in the rear of the compressor. That oil leak didn't help any, that's for sure! Good work. Your thorough in testing and it shows in the repair.
I always like to come up with a hypothesis at the beginning of your videos based off the customer complaint, definitely off on this one. Was fairly certain there was a lack of air flow over the condenser, didn't even know this style of A/C compressor existed either. Thanks again for another great and educational video.
Yes I know why you thought that way which is good initial thinking. That's why a few more tests to rule it out is so worth it. Pressure of the system definitely would rule that out and point you right towards the problem being compressor related...
I want to say, you should record the videos that create and develop into 1 or 2 more levels of difficulties. This is new knowledge to me. And now I don’t do much at all AC work like before. Gracias 😊
You're videos actually informative to me I own a 2015 Jeep Patriot latitude and it's doing the same thing thinking about replacing just the valve on it more than likely going to replace the whole AC compressor it's $165 for a new compressor from Amazon!
My favorite videos are where everything doesn't go perfectly or as planned. I want to see how you determine when to change the focus of your testing and why you changed the focus of your testing.
Well trying to help out a friend I understand. .. I bought a vw and I had to replace the compressor because it would not make the correct pressure. I think the compressor works simular to this one . I did not change out the valve that controls the squash plate . Those blend doors can cause you grief . I like to isolate the hot water some times to help cooling . Your right about the quality in my option on those products lol
It doesn't look like the control valve solenoid does *anything to move/angle the swash plate* . It only seems to be a valve, so I'm thinking it is just actuating a refrigerant bypass within the compressor, basically when commanded off, it allows full bypassing of the refrigerant going directly from the outlet back to the inlet. When fully ON, it blocks any refrigerant bypass and allows it to flow through the whole refrigeration loop. The solenoid probably could have been fixed by cleaning and lubrication, as there is nothing to really break, except for the valves the fairly weak magnet actuates to get stuck. You could have tried that before full replacement. Also, since the blend door was broken the whole time to a degree, that means the evaporator wasn't getting proper airflow, making it run cold, restricting gas flow to the compressor inlet, and causing the symptoms you saw... I bet with the blend door fixed and the original control solenoid valve cleaned, the old parts would have worked!
Interesting theory but the blend door got stuck during the time we where waiting for the part. During that week we had a random cold front come out of nowhere and he turned his heater on for the first time this year. The next day he tried to turn it back to cold, but it wouldn’t cool anymore like it did before. Plus, after replacing the compressor, I saw an immediate change in the pressures. The pressures read good even though the cabin was being filled with hot air. That’s when I knew the blend door had gotten stuck. I’ve seen this happen before on Jeeps. These were two separate problems.
@@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO I can agree on the blend door being a new issue. But don't you agree that the control valve is just a solenoid opening or closing a valve. As long as the coil is not shorted or open circuit, it is electrically in order. That just leaves the valves themselves to be INOP, and apart from damage to the sealing surfaces, it seems most logical to me that the valve was sticky, and thus limiting the function of the compressor by bypassing most of the refrigerant.
@@jovangrbic97 The valve controls the swash plate angle by allowing refrigerant pressure to enter the compressor crankcase. Here is an article that explains it pretty well. ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/clutchless-ac-compressor-how-it-works/
I noticed the temperature guage read 60 Fahrenheit and to most that's not cold at all especially when it's really hot outside! mid 30's-40 is normally a good working system which everyone is happy with and comfortable! but there's most likely other a/c components that would have to be replaced to reach that goal which obviously is an additional $$$ and the vehicle's got so many issues it just ain't worth it to fix it all to where it should be like new you would go and buy new!lol. Hey great video great job and being honest and saying how it is and what the best option and decision is to be made for the costumer!,
Great video. There you knew it was an AC problem. For the next videos on this car can you tell us what you checled and how you know this or this has to be fixed . What are your the controls you make and in what order. If you could show us on a paper board this woukd really be awesome.
GM has used the variable displacement compressors since the 80s but they still had magnetic clutches to engage the compressor. It just didn't cycle with low load the valve would shift and unload. So the magnetic clutch has been omitted altogether? Does the compressor always turn and does it have the capability of unloading completely with no call for compressor operation i.e. HVAC turned off? Interested to know. Been out of the auto field for awhile now but still do HVAC and refrigeration daily.
I bought PT Cruiser super cheap, but the only reason I agreed to buy it was it has a manual trans. Little things are always going wrong, but at least the trans is not an issue!
Eric you're an Honest Guy. That Jeep is a money pit short on life. Do the Minimum repairs until he can afford to replace the vehicle with a more reliable one.
Good informative video thanks, we have replaced several compressor new / used it works for about 5 days then stops working. Not missing freon. wondering if you may know other possible fuse/ relay issues?
It never fails when you try to save a friend some money that it will escalate quickly. At least the car is generating some revenue and all the new parts are not a total loss.
2 cans Walmart Engine Degreaser= $7 DIY car wash high pressure wand for 5 minutes= $6 Not showing up to the ER covered in blood & feces and expecting Doctors to help you- Priceless
2015 Jeep Compass 2.0….when I turn on the AC the compressor makes loud knocking noise but still cools. My best guess is the compressor needs replaced. There are no coolant leaks, but would you advise replacing the condenser, dryer, expansion valve, and etc while doing the job….or just replace the compressor?
2011 highlander charged using robin air machine to max 1.81 lbs listed ac compressor turns off below 1000rpm works above just fine. Low side around 30 when reved and working high side 175-200 Should I add more ? New compressor condenser and expansion valve
hello i have the same car like your friend. i need to ask you a question about my AC? so when i turn my AC on my car makes a clicking noise and when the heat is on it does the clicking noise as well what could it be.
I just had my local dealer install an aftermarket uac compressor from partsgeek The compressor wants to work when it wants to, dealer took a look and figured it had an obstruction they pumped it back down and filled system and it was fine 2 days ago today me and wife got in car to go for lunch and its blowing all warm/hot compressor not kicking in..with the difference in the uac control valve and the oem control valve could it be the point of failure ?
Did good for the blue Eric! ..I'm all for the guys if I coukd do something for them I would try to fix it as well , sorry he's giving a hard time with just starting out ....I had a jeep but sold it after I did a few things because of expense on upkeep ...made more sense to get into a Ford f150......thanks for up load Eric look forward to next .....oh , and I have a 2x4 cut just the right size for a hood prop ....it will cost you 25 dollars plus shipping ....may up load a vedio for free give away bro .....lol
My 2014 jeep compass latitude 4wd 2.4 engine ac isn't getting cold and there's a rattling noise when I turn on my airconditioner I was told I need a condenser before the mechanic finished talking he said a compressor pump are these two parts the same just different names help me to understand what is it I need
Sounds exactly like my o5 legacy leaks like a sieve (oil) major suspension bushing failure and evap leak my head is spinning cannot afford another car right now…how would you go about cleaning that oil mess?
My a/c is intermittent in my Mercedes I can hear the compressor clutch but it sounded weak and I can't find a wiring diagram for the clutch also the radiator fan isn't working I wonder if the fan controller is making the clutch have a weak signal
Dude, sometimes the customer, friend or not, just has to eat it. Logistics always come into play when working on vehicles and more so on other people's vehicles. Honestly, I didn't know how hard it was going to be to procure one of those solenoid valves but I'm a big fan of component replacement in whole, especially when it's so worn and bathed in oil.
Why do these valves fail so frequent? On my car after frequent failure of these solenoid i decided to convert to fixed displacement compressor, now i have forgotten all the problems variable displacement compressors
I thought the electrical control valves would set a code in HVAC or body mods if conditions didn't meet the computer expectations. Am I mistaken? Seems I seen another video on this somewhere.
Great educational material video like always thank you so much for time you take to share your knowledge. Just an observation can your a/c gages manifold hoses for low and high pressures be attached to de manifold backwards because the angle ends look funny.
@@DylanL69 yes I understand that but What I saw is that the end of the hoses I believe it goes on the fittings instead of the manifold if you pay attention one end of the hose has an angle and the other end is straight. So my theory is that the straight end goes attached to the manifold and the angle end goes on the fittings.
Nice video. Please do not lean items such as the tire up against the body panels of the vehicle, you are teaching DIYers here on the channel of if they do not follow all safety procedures such as lower the vehicle down to the safety stand or they don't have one and their jack leaks, that tire is going to leave a nice dent in the door. I am wondering about the backing plate on the end of the entire compressor if the shape of it or the overall diameter of it would be a telltale sign as to the overall length of the solenoid control valve? A complaint that I have is when Providers show a bad PWM waveform but do not show a good PWM waveform after the repairs are completed. The AC Head unit or the PCM may be trying to control the PW based on pressure feedback from a pressure sensor? No problem that you didn't go fully into the AC theory of operation but a known good PWM Waveform would have been nice in the end. For a solenoid test I would do an on vehicle bench test with the scope amp clamp, just give the connector full 12 volts and monitor the amp wave to see if the initial charge was ringing and angled normally or if it goes vertical immediately showing a shorted coil, the same as an ignition coil or injector coil. Thanks for the bonus door linkage. Thanks for the case study.
Hey Guys! I just wanted to add that you can also do a resistance measurement using an ohm meter to test the control valve. I did not film this procedure because I was not sure of a specification. After comparing the old valve with the new one, I found that they both measure to about 10 ohms. That seems to be normal. The resistance measurement test can tell you if the valve is faulty electronically but not mechanically. The valve plunger could still be sticking even though the magnet is working fine.
Can we check it like intake camshaft?!
I heard through my research that you can put a balloon over part of the end of the valve and blow it up and if it deflates with power given to the valve then it is bad and if it doesn't deflate then it is good....basically testing to make sure when power is given to it, it opens correctly and is not stuck where it doesn't fully open....you could also breathe through it using something that fits around it
Hi, exellent video. Thanks for posting.
By the way there is a tool to test the duty cycle of the compressor.
It is expensive but you don't have to guess what the problem is. It even allows you to test the resistance on the valve, no need to get the multimeter out.
Thank you for actually posting this. 2 years later and you just saved me hella money on replacing my compressor AND gave me the false confidence I needed to try and do this myself 😅
I love you man and you are a master mechanic and I am a shadetree mechanic with a degree in Chem Eng. The static pressure of the refrigerant doesn't tell much. Much of the refrigerant is liquid and the pressure is determined only by the ambient temperature when the car is shut off and cold. The pressure will stay the same until all of the liquid has evaporated and then if more is lost, the pressure will stop dropping.
For example, if you had a gauge on a can of refrigerant, the pressure will remain the same until all of the liquid has evaporated and then it will stop dropping. Great diagnosis by the way!
Great info! For my purposes, I look at the static pressure because that’s what the cars computer is looking at to determine whether or not it should turn the compressor on. If the A/C pressure sensor is reading low pressure then the compressor will not activate. Thanks for watching!
You know you are serious about your work with a garage floor like that (epoxy)! Cleaner than the plates I eat off of. Another great video! These are the best videos to post...the real world issues and headaches that happen to technicians and DIYrs. Thanks!
This video has a lot of value. Many things can be learned here. Especially that the PM/MK platform should have never been called a Jeep!
Excellent video. A lot of people don't understand that you often have to do some trial and error to make the repair. AC work diagnosis is an art and a science, along with a lot of experience and the right tools. Nice job.
I'm glad you did post this video. It was very informative. When everything goes exactly as planned, you don't really learn anything new. It's when things go sideways that you discover and learn. God bless!
From simple to some of the list complicated issues you make them all seem quite easy bro! I commend you on all you do for the automotive community and I’m sure ppl who take the time to watch your videos who are not techs/mechanics can appreciate and take something away from your content as well! Thanks Eric!
Here's my theory: The original root cause of the poor A/C performance was the sticking temperature door, which you solved. However, previously another mechanic simply shot the parts cannon and replaced the compressor with that aftermarket unit. The aftermarket compressor is a cheap knock-off, so it failed early. That brought the customer to you. Chrysler has used Denso compressors for a while (the same manufacturer associated with Toyota), so likely the parts changer mechanic caused the customer additional grief with inferior parts by not doing a thorough diagnosis. Lots of compressors get changed for no good reason, aside from the fact that the mechanic does a bad diagnosis. That's likely why the cost is so high. The replacement valve would likely have worked in an OE compressor. I'm sure your friend appreciates that you were able to fix the problem. Keep up the good work!
I don’t know why every time I see you post a new video a get really excited!!!! It’s really nice to see that every-time I watch your videos I learn something new ….. nice job parcero keep it up!!!!
Great diagnosis and fix Eric! I do the same looking for the best possible and affordable solution to fix my friends vehicles. In this case, replacing the compressor assembly is the best case scenario and avoiding other cooling problems. Cheers!
Hey mad respect to you we don’t win them all on the first diagnosis. We learn from our mistakes you can’t be scared to try in life. This is a Amazing video I appreciate the time which will save the next guy some time.
Facing this very symptom right now on my 2016 Jeep Compass. Now I know where to look first. Ty for posting his video, very much appreciated.
So what did you find?
I understand trying to save a friend some money but that was a risk that I wouldn't be willing to take. I would have called a compressor over giving him the option. If you give ANYONE a option they will always choose the cheapest route even if it's not the correct option. Great video. Jeeps are money pits 🤣
I love the work you do
on jeeps...based on what you did I'm going to replace the compressor on my 2012 jeep liberty...you're a true professional...thanks!
Thank you for this video. Your right about ANY Chrysler product, especially a used one.
Newer vehicles have that full time on with the control valve. Some have the clutch with the RPM pickup in the rear of the compressor. That oil leak didn't help any, that's for sure!
Good work. Your thorough in testing and it shows in the repair.
I always like to come up with a hypothesis at the beginning of your videos based off the customer complaint, definitely off on this one. Was fairly certain there was a lack of air flow over the condenser, didn't even know this style of A/C compressor existed either. Thanks again for another great and educational video.
I was thinking the same thing at first til I saw the fans on
Yes I know why you thought that way which is good initial thinking. That's why a few more tests to rule it out is so worth it. Pressure of the system definitely would rule that out and point you right towards the problem being compressor related...
I want to say, you should record the videos that create and develop into 1 or 2 more levels of difficulties. This is new knowledge to me. And now I don’t do much at all AC work like before. Gracias 😊
You're videos actually informative to me I own a 2015 Jeep Patriot latitude and it's doing the same thing thinking about replacing just the valve on it more than likely going to replace the whole AC compressor it's $165 for a new compressor from Amazon!
This is a great video, Eric! You are a superb diagnostician and a great human being.
Best regards to you and your family.
Great video and learned alot again. Thank you for your work in making it
My favorite videos are where everything doesn't go perfectly or as planned. I want to see how you determine when to change the focus of your testing and why you changed the focus of your testing.
Regarding of is being planned or not, your content is always great to watch and educational as I learn something from every video you watch.
Well trying to help out a friend I understand. .. I bought a vw and I had to replace the compressor because it would not make the correct pressure. I think the compressor works simular to this one . I did not change out the valve that controls the squash plate . Those blend doors can cause you grief . I like to isolate the hot water some times to help cooling . Your right about the quality in my option on those products lol
It doesn't look like the control valve solenoid does *anything to move/angle the swash plate* . It only seems to be a valve, so I'm thinking it is just actuating a refrigerant bypass within the compressor, basically when commanded off, it allows full bypassing of the refrigerant going directly from the outlet back to the inlet. When fully ON, it blocks any refrigerant bypass and allows it to flow through the whole refrigeration loop. The solenoid probably could have been fixed by cleaning and lubrication, as there is nothing to really break, except for the valves the fairly weak magnet actuates to get stuck. You could have tried that before full replacement. Also, since the blend door was broken the whole time to a degree, that means the evaporator wasn't getting proper airflow, making it run cold, restricting gas flow to the compressor inlet, and causing the symptoms you saw... I bet with the blend door fixed and the original control solenoid valve cleaned, the old parts would have worked!
Interesting theory but the blend door got stuck during the time we where waiting for the part. During that week we had a random cold front come out of nowhere and he turned his heater on for the first time this year. The next day he tried to turn it back to cold, but it wouldn’t cool anymore like it did before. Plus, after replacing the compressor, I saw an immediate change in the pressures. The pressures read good even though the cabin was being filled with hot air. That’s when I knew the blend door had gotten stuck. I’ve seen this happen before on Jeeps. These were two separate problems.
@@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO I can agree on the blend door being a new issue. But don't you agree that the control valve is just a solenoid opening or closing a valve. As long as the coil is not shorted or open circuit, it is electrically in order. That just leaves the valves themselves to be INOP, and apart from damage to the sealing surfaces, it seems most logical to me that the valve was sticky, and thus limiting the function of the compressor by bypassing most of the refrigerant.
@@jovangrbic97 The valve controls the swash plate angle by allowing refrigerant pressure to enter the compressor crankcase. Here is an article that explains it pretty well. ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/clutchless-ac-compressor-how-it-works/
i have a automotive shop in alabama and in the south jeeps give very little problems most shops are full of chevys and fords the dodges hold up good
You are a very good mechanic, the Jeep just shows up problem after problem. I won't touch the vehicle from Chrysler.
Loved your analogy for the a/c compressor
You should have become a teacher. You are very good at explaining things.
Excellent video! Great visuals too. Good thorough explanation, but electrical and mechanical. Nice job!
The compressor looks to pull down when you raise idle , suggesting to me the valves in compressor are good. So I think you made a good call.
I noticed the temperature guage read 60 Fahrenheit and to most that's not cold at all especially when it's really hot outside!
mid 30's-40 is normally a good working system which everyone is happy with and comfortable! but there's most likely other a/c components that would have to be replaced to reach that goal which obviously is an additional $$$ and the vehicle's got so many issues it just ain't worth it to fix it all to where it should be like new you would go and buy new!lol.
Hey great video great job and being honest and saying how it is and what the best option and decision is to be made for the costumer!,
Great video. There you knew it was an AC problem. For the next videos on this car can you tell us what you checled and how you know this or this has to be fixed . What are your the controls you make and in what order. If you could show us on a paper board this woukd really be awesome.
I would normally get a junkyard compressor. Had good luck doing it. Great video Eric! Thank you!!
GM has used the variable displacement compressors since the 80s but they still had magnetic clutches to engage the compressor. It just didn't cycle with low load the valve would shift and unload. So the magnetic clutch has been omitted altogether? Does the compressor always turn and does it have the capability of unloading completely with no call for compressor operation i.e. HVAC turned off? Interested to know. Been out of the auto field for awhile now but still do HVAC and refrigeration daily.
I’m glad you posted this video
I bought PT Cruiser super cheap, but the only reason I agreed to buy it was it has a manual trans. Little things are always going wrong, but at least the trans is not an issue!
Eric you're an Honest Guy. That Jeep is a money pit short on life. Do the Minimum repairs until he can afford to replace the vehicle with a more reliable one.
Make sure the cabin filter is good to
Your the best Eric Man learned a lot from you on a/C.
Thank you for your video,
I learned a lot about my 2016 Jeep compass
Great charts and diagrams of the a/c system! thanks :) wonder if the oil leak will destroy another a/c compressor sooner or later ?
Love the hood prop.
Floor jack handle works great!
Good informative video thanks, we have replaced several compressor new / used it works for about 5 days then stops working. Not missing freon. wondering if you may know other possible fuse/ relay issues?
Yes, It's tough. Hard work and sometimes not so good. We do what we have to,
Thank you for the Knowledge, very much appreciated.
It never fails when you try to save a friend some money that it will escalate quickly. At least the car is generating some revenue and all the new parts are not a total loss.
2 cans Walmart Engine Degreaser= $7
DIY car wash high pressure wand for 5 minutes= $6
Not showing up to the ER covered in blood & feces
and expecting Doctors to help you- Priceless
You explained things very clear
🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
Excellent video. Love the long repair videos. 👍👍
Glad you posted it.
Awesome great video. It's just like real life that things don't happen as you think it will
many informations as always good job thx
2015 Jeep Compass 2.0….when I turn on the AC the compressor makes loud knocking noise but still cools. My best guess is the compressor needs replaced. There are no coolant leaks, but would you advise replacing the condenser, dryer, expansion valve, and etc while doing the job….or just replace the compressor?
It is a Chrysler product. You said it!
Thanks Eric for sharing this really good educational video ..
Thanks for your video post. I do like to see how it works in real life.
Excellent video, Thanks for posting.
2011 highlander charged using robin air machine to max 1.81 lbs listed ac compressor turns off below 1000rpm works above just fine. Low side around 30 when reved and working high side 175-200 Should I add more ? New compressor condenser and expansion valve
Great video bro learning a lot from you
hello i have the same car like your friend. i need to ask you a question about my AC? so when i turn my AC on my car makes a clicking noise and when the heat is on it does the clicking noise as well what could it be.
I just had my local dealer install an aftermarket uac compressor from partsgeek
The compressor wants to work when it wants to, dealer took a look and figured it had an obstruction they pumped it back down and filled system and it was fine 2 days ago today me and wife got in car to go for lunch and its blowing all warm/hot compressor not kicking in..with the difference in the uac control valve and the oem control valve could it be the point of failure ?
Great Vid so many topics
Brake kleen and compress air works better.
While spraying the BK on the part put your blow gun air stream into the BK stream.
😁
So why would the magnet unlock like that, in order to replace only the magnet ? So does the whole part need to be replaced?
Very helpful thank you soo much 🙏
Excellent video, I learned a lot. Definitely going to subscribe
Great vid man
Did good for the blue Eric! ..I'm all for the guys if I coukd do something for them I would try to fix it as well , sorry he's giving a hard time with just starting out ....I had a jeep but sold it after I did a few things because of expense on upkeep ...made more sense to get into a Ford f150......thanks for up load Eric look forward to next .....oh , and I have a 2x4 cut just the right size for a hood prop ....it will cost you 25 dollars plus shipping ....may up load a vedio for free give away bro .....lol
I'll keep you in mind about that 2x4 giveaway lol
My 2014 jeep compass latitude 4wd 2.4 engine ac isn't getting cold and there's a rattling noise when I turn on my airconditioner I was told I need a condenser before the mechanic finished talking he said a compressor pump are these two parts the same just different names help me to understand what is it I need
Great. To learn. About. A c
Sounds exactly like my o5 legacy leaks like a sieve (oil) major suspension bushing failure and evap leak my head is spinning cannot afford another car right now…how would you go about cleaning that oil mess?
Great video! Is the blender door video available?
I would like to ask where can I get a nice labscope like yours ,I'm in South Africa
My a/c is intermittent in my Mercedes I can hear the compressor clutch but it sounded weak and I can't find a wiring diagram for the clutch also the radiator fan isn't working I wonder if the fan controller is making the clutch have a weak signal
Dude, sometimes the customer, friend or not, just has to eat it. Logistics always come into play when working on vehicles and more so on other people's vehicles. Honestly, I didn't know how hard it was going to be to procure one of those solenoid valves but I'm a big fan of component replacement in whole, especially when it's so worn and bathed in oil.
Thank u for the tips cus my door does same thing
It would’ve been interesting to see if the control valve would’ve fixed it
Does the duty cycle controller uses a temperature sensor in the cabin????
Thanks for sharing . Best video real life 👍
What if you turn the ac on and the fans don't come on? They work when direct power is applied
Nice,nice , video, very nice animations , what's the par#for the snap on pliers.
Why do these valves fail so frequent? On my car after frequent failure of these solenoid i decided to convert to fixed displacement compressor, now i have forgotten all the problems variable displacement compressors
Awesome video man
How much a/c compressor oil did you put into compressor?
Good stuff bro!
Good video thank you !
Nice job .
Wen u change the valve they loose the freon ?
Yeah I tell what buy one of reliable Ford explorers with that great v6 engine they have 👍
Super vidéo thanks 👌😁
Save your self the headache and just replace the compressor.
Nice hood stand
Just when I thought Rainman Ray was a superior automotive technician.
I thought the electrical control valves would set a code in HVAC or body mods if conditions didn't meet the computer expectations. Am I mistaken? Seems I seen another video on this somewhere.
The valve may still be electrically good but mechanically sticking.
Great educational material video like always thank you so much for time you take to share your knowledge.
Just an observation can your a/c gages manifold hoses for low and high pressures be attached to de manifold backwards because the angle ends look funny.
No I believe the high and low ports are 2 different sizes
@@DylanL69 yes I understand that
but What I saw is that the end of the hoses I believe it goes on the fittings instead of the manifold if you pay attention one end of the hose has an angle and the other end is straight.
So my theory is that the straight end goes attached to the manifold and the angle end goes on the fittings.
👌👌👌 good video
Informative vedio
My brackets in the back of the heater unit are broken
Nice video. Please do not lean items such as the tire up against the body panels of the vehicle, you are teaching DIYers here on the channel of if they do not follow all safety procedures such as lower the vehicle down to the safety stand or they don't have one and their jack leaks, that tire is going to leave a nice dent in the door. I am wondering about the backing plate on the end of the entire compressor if the shape of it or the overall diameter of it would be a telltale sign as to the overall length of the solenoid control valve? A complaint that I have is when Providers show a bad PWM waveform but do not show a good PWM waveform after the repairs are completed. The AC Head unit or the PCM may be trying to control the PW based on pressure feedback from a pressure sensor? No problem that you didn't go fully into the AC theory of operation but a known good PWM Waveform would have been nice in the end.
For a solenoid test I would do an on vehicle bench test with the scope amp clamp, just give the connector full 12 volts and monitor the amp wave to see if the initial charge was ringing and angled normally or if it goes vertical immediately showing a shorted coil, the same as an ignition coil or injector coil. Thanks for the bonus door linkage. Thanks for the case study.