@@aneeshprasobhan The problem is that when something is clipping, you get distorion, you will get peaks that are much higher than the rest of the music. Loudness does matter, but of course everybody can destroy their hearing by cranking up too much, and that goes for most audio gear. But 600W is more safe than 50W on demanding speaker load. Listening levels should be below 85 dB for normal music listening regardless of the power of the speaker. But a weak amplifier might have to be cranked up to max to get 85 dB out of the speakers. And there is no headroom left in the amplifier for the transients that comes.
I contacted Emotiva about 2ohm load for my Martin Logan and they said that it should handle it but that they just don't test for it because of cost.If you want real power you go with QSC only problem is that you have to turn on manually, Class D you wont notice any single difference , Studios and cinemas use class D
if only i could use the ever so efficient and light class D at festivals, alas given their ability for voltage irregularities cooking classD's am stuck with 30-40kg class A/Bs, H's and "i"s
Have you ever heard of an amp company named ATI? They do OEM/ODM work for a number of top tier boutique audio companies. Their amplifiers are module like the Emotiva ones. They are also made in the USA. Another American company worth mention is Parasound. Perhaps you could contact them for a review sample?
Hey! Just wanted to say that I’m really happy i found this channel! I love sound but I’m still a beginner, and I’m enjoying your show! Nice content!! Keep it up!
I have couple of the Crown 2502's. I can max the volume without pushing a signal to the amp... I only hear a slight hiss with my ear almost against the tweeter. Not enough that you could even hear in a dead silent room. I have had vintage audio equipment of pristine status that was on par with the Crowns. My speakers sensitivity are 98db SPL too. I have owned quite a bit of high end gear. The Crown's can hold their own. For the money, they can't be beat for power, efficiency and features. Not yet... The Crowns match very well with the Emotiva PT-100 (which has a decent DAC built in, or use of a different good DAC (Aune X8 Magic DAC, JDS Labs EL DAC II, The ES9038Q2M SABRE32 Reference DAC, AK4490 - AK4499 etc.) and also using tubes as a buffer, if you want a fuller bodied richer sound. I would use good quality JBL or Klipsch speakers at least. People can get Audiophile grade gear on the cheap these days!!! What can be had for $5,000 today, would have cost you $50,000 or more 20yrs ago. Think about it...
Since the signal going into the crowns has to be converted back to digital, does that nullify any high end dac used upstream. Or is the high end dac upstream still helping the final product do to speak once its all converted back to analog again? Just wondering if this amp will essentially become my dac and render my processors dac useless?
I really want to thank you for finally convincing me to move towards Pro amplifiers for home use. I hesitated for a long long time...then finally took the plunge. Granted I had to add an ART CleanBox Pro for my Crown XLS1500 due to VERY low voltage output from my Onkyo receiver, but after that it was pure gold! Absolutely amazing, open sound stage, crystal clear audio for both movies and music, and more power/$$$ that I can believe. Thanks so much!
I've watched this video a couple of times and I can't, for the life of me, believe that there's enough of a power supply to produce that kind of wattage and be coherent.
i don't see those pushing anywhere near that wattage. just thinking out loud, 120v main on lets be generous 20amp breaker will supply a max of 2400watts and maybe a hair more before the breaker trips. so unless you have each one on its own breaker then that "2400watt" rating is maybe a lie or musical max with clipping. also see on the back just above the plug "425w" so i am assuming that's what the draw from the wall. if so and with the ~87% efficiency a class D amps have, i'm seeing maybe a max of 360watts rms.
Keith Raufer i don't know, im thinking he is living in a nice apartment and i doubt they would be willing to run a dedicated circuit for him. love his reviews just some info could be clarified more.
Greg Mushen IIRC Z had 20A circuits installed. And everyone: Sure, your 2400W amp will trip a breaker IF it runs a circa 2200W sine wave for a few seconds, but will deliver 2400W into any _normal_ music signal, i.e. anything above a certain liberal crest factor (anything above 4:1). The reason is that the PS filter capacitors will deliver full power with steady AC power well below 2400VA. That power will decrease steadily only if the voltage of those caps runs down and _only_ when there is a similar, _steady_ AC input power decrease. Remember, Zeos ran PA sound with his dad for years: power calculations are critival in that application. Of course he's still Zeos, so that remains an issue. 😉
None of you know wtf you're talking about, it's hilarious..CLASS D high wattage work by shifting the sample frequency at which they operate up to extremely high frequencies. In doing so, they use MUCH smaller power transformers. I suggest you so called "experts" to look up BigDwiz where he shows and even proofs you little fools wrong, he puts Class D amps on the benchmark that exceeds by far 1000watt RMS without clipping in a car amp (small enough for ya) None of you understand how a class D works which is obvious. Crown is well known in PA world to drive speakers none of you will ever own nor touch in watts driving huge venues. The specs are very real and tested and proven...
How in all hell did you run out of power with 600 watts per channel in a regular living-room? Must be either a weak source (I know it shouldn't be in your case), or something about the 110 mains power in the US is under-supplying the amps, because I've had some of the same speakers connected to my Pioneer Reference Series M90, which is A/B ~200 watts@8ohm, weighs 21kg, (in Denmark, so 220v power), and it rips those speakers a new one, without breaking a sweat. At normal listening volume (~80dB) in a similar sized room the VU's rarely go much above 10watts... I don't know how this makes sense, but I'm utterly bewildered... I guess thats just Zeos for ya...
I saw another comment which said that the Behringer amp's actual output is way lower than 600 watts, something closer to 125 per channel the way he was using them.
Those Behringer a500’s are a joke. They are pushing about 60 Watts a channel into 8 and 100 into 4. Bridged less than 200 at 8 ohms. They are only $199 dollars each.
Well I would have given possibly against the amps if the Vidar didn't show up at a rated 400w in bridge and underpush against the A500. And low signal is possible except the MiniDSP HD shows me to the decibel what is happening. So I have run the number and figures and I am telling you just what I know from testing live in my room.
200 or not the parts inside are real. You can see the transformer and the caps. You have to know what kind of REAL build costs most amps entail. Behringer is just taking the smallest cut to corner the market.
I'm extremely happy with my class D amp by a company called D Sonic. Drives my Maggie's like a champ with plenty of headroom. It's 1500 watts at 8 ohms and 2100 Watts at 4 Ohms. Dual mono in a single chassis. And it never gets hot.
It's only a matter of time before you have two Funktion One Dance Stacks on either side of your screen. I DJed a handful of times on a 120kW Funktion One system. Imagine taking the amount of power it takes to run a cul-de-sac of upper middle class homes and putting it into speakers pointed right at your face.
I took my sound meter to the club in question once. The middle of the dance floor was about 112dB, which isn't sufficient to cause pain, but is definitely instantly damaging to hearing. Custom sound-attenuating earplugs are a must. If I crank 250 Watts/channel through my KEF Q350s + 1500W into My Dayton Audio sub (Dayton Audio is right down the street from me, #937Fam), I hit about 95dB in my large living room, for reference.
I have a power cord that has a few inches of the outer sheath removed so I can clamp a current meter on one of the leads to measure the current. Class A is about 25% efficient, Class AB is about 50% efficient, Class D about 85% efficient. So that could give you an estimation of the max output power you could get.
I used to have 6 Macro Tech (crown) 3600's amplifiers in a active 3 way bridged mono system; running JBL's - if memory serves me correctly we were dropping ~1Kw over each transducer with remarkable damping rates. It was an awesome system that (sometimes) rivaled my ATC SCM 150's. Moral of the story; can't go wrong with crown amps. They are very well designed.
Those old MacroTechs were beasts. I installed lots into dance clubs back in the day. They kicked hard. Often with the older JBL scoop bins 4520 before we started using the 4720s later.
Wow, you TV folks are crazy. Some would call me a audiophile on a budget but 3000+ watts is insane numbers. At the moment I'm running 200 watts total and waiting on my QSC Amp that will take 4 speakers (Infinity RS IIIa's) up to 1000 watts at 4 ohms. I can already rattle the walls now....
True, but you're clipping the input signal or the preamp section of the amplifier. If you clip the output side or the power amp section of a guitar amp things will go bad. Most guitar speakers are very efficient and don't need much power to be loud anyway. Tube amps can also handle some clipping and still sound good, maybe better in some cases.
I've found if you set the gain to about medium on the preamp and put the master of the power amp right at the point of break up and get the tubes and output transformer all nice and saturated it has a wonderful sound.
how can a 600 watts mono amplifier clip any of the spkrs you have reviewed? I can't imagine a spkr taking two hundred.. three hundred... four hundred...and still live; so I don't think anybody needs such big amps unless you live in a medieval castle or your spkrs are the infinity irs
Roberto Rodríguez Or maybe you've never heard of speaker efficiency Or maybe you have no clue of the correlation between power and SPL increase? You need 10 times the power for a 10 decibel increase, as the old rudimentary saying goes. Next thing you'll say is that all amplifiers of similar power output sound the same BUT in your defence I'm pretty sure Behringer just got their power ratings a bit a tad bit higher than they actually have
Roberto Rodríguez peaks in music. Go Google the subject. You need far more power than you realize and anything else is just marketing to sell cheap amps. Even at normal volumes a small amp will distort and clip slightly all the time. Youll be used to hearing it, it won't bother you until you get a superior amp in the room and hear its absence. The only exception is like ultra high sensitive speakers and tube amps.
To actually need and clip 600 watts into 8 ohms in a room that size, a speaker would need to have an efficiency in the low 70s. I don't know if you understand efficiency related to required power output.
aaron phillips Find me a speaker that has unchanging impedance throughout its frequency response, I'll wait Or a speaker that has equal sensitivity throughout its response curve (hehehe I'll wait) After that prove to me that shit amps don't exist (hint: oooooooooh they do) A 10 times increase in power means a 10dB SPL increase, as the old saying goes So as far as I'm concerned you're literally just talking shit or you make a habit of listening exclusively to sine waves
Given that they’re fan cooled and made to be racked, have you considered dropping like $200-300 on a pair of wood cases for them? I’m not saying that it would magically turn then into a pair of ‘70s hifi amps but it would go a long way toward dressing them up for fancy home duty.
I bought the crown xls1502 amp a year or so ago and I really like it depending on what I am trying to do with it. It does have an audible hiss/buzz when it's on and you aren't running sound through the speakers or you are doing low level listening. That hiss/buzz is exacerbated if you use the .775 input sensitivity. I bought mine because i had a 5 channel amp and needed two more channels for surrounds, but found that the hiss in my surround speakers drove me crazy so I had to find another solution. Using the Crown for a sub now and it functions perfectly in that capacity.
get an ART CleanBox Pro and you'll a) eliminate your hiss b) be able to go from rca inputs to xlr outputs c) reduce the gain settings on your XLS 1502 amp thereby eliminating your hiss (set to about 1 o'clock) d) boost your output signal with the cleanbox to very high levels allowing you to use the 1.4 input voltage instead of the 0.775 e) be happy and thank me later!!! :-)
Jinx Canada will all this actually work? I tried two different crown amps and couldn't get either to not have a horrible hum or buzz when trying to use them conjunction with my denon avr. would love a solution that would work.
You should do a video with your old amp/speaker/song/dac etc combo and recreate it with the new amp. I'd be very curious to see if we could hear a difference between the Class A/B vs the Crown Class D.
They're cheater amps! They produce more power then rated! Wilson Audio Labs tested a few Crowns already! People fail to realize class d amplifiers circuit comes rate off the transformers power source!
@@derekstanley1624 VERY familiar with all that. i come from a car audio competition backround and worked with many large companies over the years. but id still like to have one on the test bench here. ive actually build and designed car amps from scratch here as well. and there are many variants of class d out there now. not all class d are created equal either
Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't American breakers usually trip at 15 amps? In that case, sorry Z, assuming both amps are on the same circuit, you've only got 825 wpc. Any serious audiophile runs each of their mono blocks on a separate 220V supply! ;-)
I think you should check out the Thomann T.Amp TSA 4-1300. It can run 4x1220w at 8ohm, 4x1670w at 4ohm, and if you bridge it, it does 2x4000w at 8ohm! The amazing thing is that this amp is available for only $485, very low for that kind of power. Also, it is a 4 channel amp, so may be useful for some form of surround sound?
ART TPS II 2-channel Tube Microphone Preamp 2-Channel Microphone/Instrument Preamp with Variable Valve Voicing, Variable Impedance, and Output Limiting Zeos, this ART TPS II supports balanced line level inputs. This valve pre-amp has variable valve voicing so you can better match audio material you play though it.
"Breathing. My amplifiers aren't stressed anymore..." Exactly. There is a benefit, an aural, sonic, musical benefit to having much more power available than one needs. That headroom is what gives life and vitality, a richer 3-D depth to the sound coming from speakers. Better speakers reveal the benefit better, and I am very happy for you that you discovered the Ohms. Its like the difference in sound (talking amps, here) between mp3 VS flac. There is a big difference in the sound of the two file types. It is in the detail of the music, the little things like the sound from the last three inches of a guitar string. Its there, but very few people hear it, and of the few who detect it, they do not know its origin, only that it is there. Their ears detect the vibrations (if present, all hardware considered, etc.) More power, clean and unstressed as you noted, is part of that delivery system. Love your passion for sonic excellence, Z.
Am I missing something here? I used Yamaha as-500 an 80w per channel AB class integrated amp, and it pushed anything that I plugged into it to painfully loud levels, from Dali epicon 6 to massive 4 ohm monitor audio towers, and a bunch of bookshelf speakers, and I never clipped it.
@@ilpatongi I CARE!! Maybe for pro audio setups it doesn't matter to roadies n rockers whos hearing is mostly gone, but this is being reviewed as a home audio piece! (Audiophiles n enthusiasts who likely actually protected their hearing over the years!! ) So, if it doesn't matter, then why talk about it at all?! Pro audio horn speakers are already so sensitive, that any amp will drive these setups!. THEN it probably doesn't matter...
@@ilpatongi Close! Lol. However I've spent my life protecting my very good hearing, thank you! Oh I can hear a difference. And there definitely is one! When you review sound equip, should know how it, well um, actually sounds, imo. But then I guess you millennials just need to know if it turns on, and if the blue lights work! Youre doing it right though
@@alexanderscott3790 You can't protect against frequency perception loss you genius, unless you have found a potion of eternal youth. I've worked with PA and high end stuff well enough to know that to you old rags there's no difference because you literally can't hear it. What a useless boomer comment, yeah, try protecting against old age...
Zeos is the only other channel I would patreon, the first being the water jet channel. Problem being that my debit card is basically empty most of the time as it only has money when I want to buy something epic at which point I spend all my monies. Throw ontop of that, my income is random and I can't do any payment's on a given day. At any rate, love you Zeos! Every time I get that audiophile bug I have to scratch it and watch your video's. Though I try not to a whole lot because my wallet has ADD and can't focus on one place let alone a saving's account. This video makes me want to tear apart my plebishly competent HT setup and start over with a rack mount.
oh, random thought. If you ever want to get maximum satisfaction out of your setup have a listening session with a blind man who has similar tastes in music, it helps if he hasn't experienced much hifi if any. Such a satisfying experience
You had to say Prodigy............. haven't heard that in I don't know how long. I'm about to clip my DX7 and/or HE400i's............ smack my bitch up! Oh what are your thought's on an equalizer, I found your friends channel Metal571 and he gives a tutorial on an EQ. My take is I wanted to buy a pair of m1060's until I EQ'd my hifiman's. I don't know what I'm doing on it but the signature is so much nicer.
For music I use the DAC built into the MiniDSP HD. So it is very much in charge for music. Movies go through the dual conversion as they use the Analog input of the Receiver's Pre-out to funnel signal to the front channels. Honestly can't tell it is happening.
3db requires double the power so it doesnt make sense to get more power for your current speakers. IMO you should upgrade your speakers to something larger and more sensitve
Why the need for that much power? Do you turn the volume up that high? Out of curiosity what volume do you regularly play your home theater stereo system at? I play mine between 9 and 13 on the volume scale. But then I'm very happy with my Sony Strdh 130 receiver,Sony DVP SR510H player,Optimus STS 100 speakers and Optimus Pro SW 12 subwoofer. I built my system strictly for my music cd collection. I have always been very budget conscious.
On the Crowns XLS 2502 where the power cable plugs in , it says 425 watts. How can they put out even 250 watts RMS per channel? If these amps were even 95 percent efficient they would only be capable of about 200 Watts RMS per channel. I have 2 each AT/Amplifier Technologies Inc, AT2505 amplifiers. Each are rated at 250 Watts RMS into 8ohm and 375 Watts RMS into 4 ohm all channels driven Simultaneously. Each amp needs its own 20 amp outlet to plug into. Where the Power cord plugs into the amplifiers it says 2400 watts. I had an 80 amp 120vac sub-panel box installed just outside of my A/V room. I installed 4 each 20 amp dual outlets to power all my equipment. The 2505 amps will run on a 15 amp circuit but if push hard I am certain will trip the breakers. 375 X 5 = 1875 Watts. The ATI 2505 are maybe 80 percent efficient.
Maybe I’m missing something but I really don’t think you can clip a speaker. Anything in the chain before the speaker can clip as clipping is essentially a dc signal while exceeding voltage rail limits
Physically you can reach the limits of what the magnet and voice coil are capable of. When that happens you have crashed the driver and bad things happen.
I don’t think SVS pb16 is enough at 1500watts rms ... I’m thinking on building subwoofer box for a Sundown 12” subwoofer .... here’s my issue now i need to be able to plug it all into my gaming laptop.. the subwoofer is rated for 2000-2500watts rms but you can safely push 3,000 .. I think on doing a sealed box sense it’s so much power . What’s your take ?
23:16 you can say that again. Crown professional are made for driving huge ass PA systems in venues or rehearsal rooms 😂 but damn dawg, I ain't never heard anything but praise for crown
I know this video is over a year old. My FIOS ONT has a battery box in the garage that makes that same sound because it wants a new battery... might be worth a look.
How can I have individual volume control remotely of each channel? Preferable under $30 Thought about splicing up two RCA bass knobs + - input with the sub wire then the other out RCA on the knob directly into the amp....but I don't understand how to determine if that is suitable for the 100-300 watt RMS draw from each channel Will this work and if so any concerns/cons? Or any better options? Would appreciate replies from anyone that would be knowledgeable on best way to accomplish this. Cheers!
I'm running a Pair of "Pro Audio" Bag End TA15's in my living room. They have a 103db sensitivity. I get them to CRANK beyond anyone would want them to with a 4 watt SET amp. George Wright 3.5 2A3 SET monoblock amps to be exact. He passed away alas but they were not that expensive when i purchased them new 15 years ago. All this speak of thousands of watts boggles my mind when i am driving these Bag End speakers to clean high output levels with only 4 watts. And it sounds fantastic! Is there THAT much of a difference between speaker sensitivities where you can kill with these speakers with only 4 watts and yet be clipping with speakers that are less sensitive with 600 watts? I don't get it
Actually it gets harder for amps to do their jobs as the number of ohms goes up. As the the number of ohms go down the amplifier can put out more watts but it’ll also run hotter.
Good evening Zeos, I also use a Crown XLS2502 for a subwoofer in one of our rooms. I recently purchased a few of these XLS2502 amps to use as mono block amps in a home theater (same as you). To my dismay, I quickly found the hiss (noise floor?) to be very noticeable. (various speakers tested) Have you not noticed the hiss when these are run full range? I took one away from all my equipment to a spare room, with only a small speaker hooked up (no signal cable), and they still hissed just as loudly!
I love class a a/b, in winter all i have to do is turn my amps on and they heat the room in no time. In summer not so much fun, on a very hot day i don't turn them on without a fan blowing on them.
i downloaded the behringer a500 manual pdf, and look here: RMS power bridge mono 8ohms with 1%THD is 375watts. that is why you feel the low power on this amp. new Crown 2502 amp is 1550 watts 8ohm bridged 0.5%thd and 4ohm listed as you say. easier to compare when you use 8 ohms numbers on both. also lower distortion on the crown, meaning that the behringer is actually lower than 375 watts if you want to play it without distrion.
How can you clipp 600 watts amp when powering a bookshelf speakers? I would say the 600 watts spec is not true. I have 80wpc amp and I never pass the 10 oclock position with my floorstand speakers because the speakers cant handle more power. On 9 oclock it is very loud already. It shakes the room with bass. You can check my videos..
Are you able to just plug these both into standard 15A outlets? Do you need 20 amp circuits, would running them on 220V making any difference? Looking in the manual for these I didn’t see anything on switching them from 110 to 220, or any of the circuit requirements 🤔 just curious.
The power supplys are multivoltage and switch automatically. So yeah you can run them on a 120v 15A circuit fine, you just wont be able to get the full output power.
I have a question about your crown amps: Do have the crossovers set on your amps, and if so where? Or should I just let the speaker crossovers do the work?
The wattage isn’t everything, also the damping factor (not sure this is the right translation) plays a very important role in how the amp is able to control the speakers.
i had my tweeters shoot out the front when my shit amp decided to play a loud popping sound on both channels the voice coil was physically infront of the magnet instead inside the slit
Before I get lambasted for challenging your video, I must admit I enjoy your material. It is fun to watch and you have the "gift of gab", which is really essential in this type of presentation. Keep up the good work and thank you for the content! However with this video I think your train has left the tracks and is now traveling on a gravel road at full throttle. I had to pause the video half-way and type this. Anyway on to the topic at hand....How is 600 watts per channel too little power for driving primary speakers in a living room? And you have a third amp driving the subs right? How could an old school Mark Levinson ML-2, which is spec'd @ under 50 watts, melt the voice coil of any of your speakers if you demanded it to do so? A solid amp, putting out a solid 100 watts will have the police at your doorstep. Besides, the math really doesn't work. If each amp is potentially outputting 2400 watts then it must be potentially consuming more than 2400 watts. You say both amps are running through an Alexa wifi controlled switch on a single circuit? That would have to be an awesome switch to handle a 4800 watt load. Me thinks that wifi switch would need a hefty sized contactor in it to be worthy. That Alexa thingy probably has a small cube relay in it. At that weight and published spec there is no way those amps are not Class-D. Not enough iron in there. Didn't you say earlier in the video you didn't want a Class-D amp? You love the Ohm branded speaker, which I must admit I would love to own a pair myself. When you added the new Class-D amps how did the spacial imaging of music (not movies) change if they even changed at all?
I did hear that sound two times second time when he go hi in is voice a heard it, its acoustic feed back, sounds like the speakers works like a microphone and get a feed back signal in to the amplifiers. It can happens and with powerful amplifiers you can also pic up emitted peak radio signals Through the speaker wire!, therefore use shielded cables for the speakers and signal path
When you are Clipping you are sending a Square Wave (if you clip it bad enough) instead of a Sinusoidal Wave. On a sidenote most Recievers put out between 2-4v/RMS, and on the low end of that scale you won't even be getting full power out of some Amps. Other then that I think your someone was fucking with you.
Mytek running away from Brooklyn Amp review!... so strange that there are no reviews at all of this while the DAC and DAC+ had so much attention. It seems they must have some concern not sending any unit for review since its release until now. The units did have some delay issues and some were even released without a manual and preinstalled with
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"i need more power, 600w per channel isn't enough for me. also whats that whistling noise in my ear?"
Zeos, (an intellectual) 2018
nano®(ch) haha maybe it is tinnitus? 😉
hahaha
Actually, it is more risk of damaging your ears with a clipping underpowered amp than an amp with lots of headroom.
@@oysteinsoreide4323 oh..so you mean loudness doesnt matter at all ?
@@aneeshprasobhan The problem is that when something is clipping, you get distorion, you will get peaks that are much higher than the rest of the music. Loudness does matter, but of course everybody can destroy their hearing by cranking up too much, and that goes for most audio gear. But 600W is more safe than 50W on demanding speaker load. Listening levels should be below 85 dB for normal music listening regardless of the power of the speaker. But a weak amplifier might have to be cranked up to max to get 85 dB out of the speakers. And there is no headroom left in the amplifier for the transients that comes.
This is the part where Z edits in slide whistle sounds to make it look like he's not insane. :)
"I'm going to shoot a whistle man"
~Zeos 2018
LOL'd at "This is the best video ever, 'cause I'm going to shoot a 'whistle man'."
What's a Whistle man?
The sound is there
David Norris sounds like a knife
it sounds digital
Maybe he added the sound in post?
The Infinity subs get 525 watts each since the driver is 4Ω. Which is enough.
Z Reviews can they all together run crysis?
Just buy a sansui ba5000
I contacted Emotiva about 2ohm load for my Martin Logan and they said that it should handle it but that they just don't test for it because of cost.If you want real power you go with QSC only problem is that you have to turn on manually, Class D you wont notice any single difference , Studios and cinemas use class D
if only i could use the ever so efficient and light class D at festivals, alas given their ability for voltage irregularities cooking classD's am stuck with 30-40kg class A/Bs, H's and "i"s
Have you ever heard of an amp company named ATI? They do OEM/ODM work for a number of top tier boutique audio companies. Their amplifiers are module like the Emotiva ones. They are also made in the USA.
Another American company worth mention is Parasound. Perhaps you could contact them for a review sample?
how are chewbaca’s ears still ok ??
She just said.. WHAT, meow
They genuinely probably aren’t she an old lady anyways 🤷🏽
Hey! Just wanted to say that I’m really happy i found this channel!
I love sound but I’m still a beginner, and I’m enjoying your show!
Nice content!!
Keep it up!
I have couple of the Crown 2502's. I can max the volume without pushing a signal to the amp... I only hear a slight hiss with my ear almost against the tweeter. Not enough that you could even hear in a dead silent room. I have had vintage audio equipment of pristine status that was on par with the Crowns. My speakers sensitivity are 98db SPL too. I have owned quite a bit of high end gear. The Crown's can hold their own. For the money, they can't be beat for power, efficiency and features. Not yet... The Crowns match very well with the Emotiva PT-100 (which has a decent DAC built in, or use of a different good DAC (Aune X8 Magic DAC, JDS Labs EL DAC II, The ES9038Q2M SABRE32 Reference DAC, AK4490 - AK4499 etc.) and also using tubes as a buffer, if you want a fuller bodied richer sound. I would use good quality JBL or Klipsch speakers at least. People can get Audiophile grade gear on the cheap these days!!! What can be had for $5,000 today, would have cost you $50,000 or more 20yrs ago. Think about it...
Since the signal going into the crowns has to be converted back to digital, does that nullify any high end dac used upstream. Or is the high end dac upstream still helping the final product do to speak once its all converted back to analog again? Just wondering if this amp will essentially become my dac and render my processors dac useless?
Those amps look like something out of blade runner now.
I approve
I really want to thank you for finally convincing me to move towards Pro amplifiers for home use. I hesitated for a long long time...then finally took the plunge. Granted I had to add an ART CleanBox Pro for my Crown XLS1500 due to VERY low voltage output from my Onkyo receiver, but after that it was pure gold! Absolutely amazing, open sound stage, crystal clear audio for both movies and music, and more power/$$$ that I can believe. Thanks so much!
I've watched this video a couple of times and I can't, for the life of me, believe that there's enough of a power supply to produce that kind of wattage and be coherent.
i don't see those pushing anywhere near that wattage. just thinking out loud, 120v main on lets be generous 20amp breaker will supply a max of 2400watts and maybe a hair more before the breaker trips. so unless you have each one on its own breaker then that "2400watt" rating is maybe a lie or musical max with clipping.
also see on the back just above the plug "425w" so i am assuming that's what the draw from the wall. if so and with the ~87% efficiency a class D amps have, i'm seeing maybe a max of 360watts rms.
Greg Mushen Hard Agree.
Greg Mushen didn’t he say he had dictated circuits?
Keith Raufer i don't know, im thinking he is living in a nice apartment and i doubt they would be willing to run a dedicated circuit for him. love his reviews just some info could be clarified more.
Greg Mushen IIRC Z had 20A circuits installed.
And everyone:
Sure, your 2400W amp will trip a breaker IF it runs a circa 2200W sine wave for a few seconds, but will deliver 2400W into any _normal_ music signal, i.e. anything above a certain liberal crest factor (anything above 4:1). The reason is that the PS filter capacitors will deliver full power with steady AC power well below 2400VA. That power will decrease steadily only if the voltage of those caps runs down and _only_ when there is a similar, _steady_ AC input power decrease.
Remember, Zeos ran PA sound with his dad for years: power calculations are critival in that application. Of course he's still Zeos, so that remains an issue. 😉
None of you know wtf you're talking about, it's hilarious..CLASS D high wattage work by shifting the sample frequency at which they operate up to
extremely high frequencies. In doing so, they use MUCH smaller power
transformers. I suggest you so called "experts" to look up BigDwiz where he shows and even proofs you little fools wrong, he puts Class D amps on the benchmark that exceeds by far 1000watt RMS without clipping in a car amp (small enough for ya)
None of you understand how a class D works which is obvious. Crown is well known in PA world to drive speakers none of you will ever own nor touch in watts driving huge venues. The specs are very real and tested and proven...
How in all hell did you run out of power with 600 watts per channel in a regular living-room? Must be either a weak source (I know it shouldn't be in your case), or something about the 110 mains power in the US is under-supplying the amps, because I've had some of the same speakers connected to my Pioneer Reference Series M90, which is A/B ~200 watts@8ohm, weighs 21kg, (in Denmark, so 220v power), and it rips those speakers a new one, without breaking a sweat. At normal listening volume (~80dB) in a similar sized room the VU's rarely go much above 10watts...
I don't know how this makes sense, but I'm utterly bewildered... I guess thats just Zeos for ya...
I saw another comment which said that the Behringer amp's actual output is way lower than 600 watts, something closer to 125 per channel the way he was using them.
Those Behringer a500’s are a joke. They are pushing about 60 Watts a channel into 8 and 100 into 4. Bridged less than 200 at 8 ohms. They are only $199 dollars each.
Well I would have given possibly against the amps if the Vidar didn't show up at a rated 400w in bridge and underpush against the A500. And low signal is possible except the MiniDSP HD shows me to the decibel what is happening. So I have run the number and figures and I am telling you just what I know from testing live in my room.
200 or not the parts inside are real. You can see the transformer and the caps. You have to know what kind of REAL build costs most amps entail. Behringer is just taking the smallest cut to corner the market.
Continuous power/peak power discrepancy.... As for voltage : "For sine waves, the multiplication factor is 1.414" - rocketroberts....
Never stop making videos. I love just sitting back and watching the whole thing. I learn so much. You give all of your fans such high quality content
Try some Magnepan Panel Speakers now that you have the wattage!!!
2 years later still no magnepan review. :(
@@jorgefernandez281 my review of the LRS is 🥵. So good. My friend was giddy when he sat in the sweet spot and let it rip.
I'm extremely happy with my class D amp by a company called D Sonic. Drives my Maggie's like a champ with plenty of headroom. It's 1500 watts at 8 ohms and 2100 Watts at 4 Ohms. Dual mono in a single chassis. And it never gets hot.
It states that it does 1200 per channel at 2ohms. Does it actually do 2 ohms with no issues
It's only a matter of time before you have two Funktion One Dance Stacks on either side of your screen. I DJed a handful of times on a 120kW Funktion One system. Imagine taking the amount of power it takes to run a cul-de-sac of upper middle class homes and putting it into speakers pointed right at your face.
As long as you have a Gain control I would have no issue. All the safety measures.
I took my sound meter to the club in question once. The middle of the dance floor was about 112dB, which isn't sufficient to cause pain, but is definitely instantly damaging to hearing. Custom sound-attenuating earplugs are a must. If I crank 250 Watts/channel through my KEF Q350s + 1500W into My Dayton Audio sub (Dayton Audio is right down the street from me, #937Fam), I hit about 95dB in my large living room, for reference.
Who needs Funktion 1's when you can get the RC1 system instead?
I have a power cord that has a few inches of the outer sheath removed so I can clamp a current meter on one of the leads to measure the current. Class A is about 25% efficient, Class AB is about 50% efficient, Class D about 85% efficient. So that could give you an estimation of the max output power you could get.
Very clever project. very top shelf '80s look. A vaporwave hit.
I used to have 6 Macro Tech (crown) 3600's amplifiers in a active 3 way bridged mono system; running JBL's - if memory serves me correctly we were dropping ~1Kw over each transducer with remarkable damping rates.
It was an awesome system that (sometimes) rivaled my ATC SCM 150's.
Moral of the story; can't go wrong with crown amps.
They are very well designed.
Those old MacroTechs were beasts. I installed lots into dance clubs back in the day. They kicked hard. Often with the older JBL scoop bins 4520 before we started using the 4720s later.
Wow, you TV folks are crazy. Some would call me a audiophile on a budget but 3000+ watts is insane numbers. At the moment I'm running 200 watts total and waiting on my QSC Amp that will take 4 speakers (Infinity RS IIIa's) up to 1000 watts at 4 ohms. I can already rattle the walls now....
"Nothing good can happen from clipping anything" - I present to you, the guitar amplifier
True, but you're clipping the input signal or the preamp section of the amplifier. If you clip the output side or the power amp section of a guitar amp things will go bad. Most guitar speakers are very efficient and don't need much power to be loud anyway. Tube amps can also handle some clipping and still sound good, maybe better in some cases.
People of the Jewish faith would also disagree with Z on this point.
I've found if you set the gain to about medium on the preamp and put the master of the power amp right at the point of break up and get the tubes and output transformer all nice and saturated it has a wonderful sound.
how can a 600 watts mono amplifier clip any of the spkrs you have reviewed? I can't imagine a spkr taking two hundred.. three hundred... four hundred...and still live; so I don't think anybody needs such big amps unless you live in a medieval castle or your spkrs are the infinity irs
Roberto Rodríguez Or maybe you've never heard of speaker efficiency
Or maybe you have no clue of the correlation between power and SPL increase? You need 10 times the power for a 10 decibel increase, as the old rudimentary saying goes.
Next thing you'll say is that all amplifiers of similar power output sound the same
BUT in your defence I'm pretty sure Behringer just got their power ratings a bit a tad bit higher than they actually have
Roberto Rodríguez peaks in music. Go Google the subject. You need far more power than you realize and anything else is just marketing to sell cheap amps. Even at normal volumes a small amp will distort and clip slightly all the time. Youll be used to hearing it, it won't bother you until you get a superior amp in the room and hear its absence. The only exception is like ultra high sensitive speakers and tube amps.
To actually need and clip 600 watts into 8 ohms in a room that size, a speaker would need to have an efficiency in the low 70s. I don't know if you understand efficiency related to required power output.
aaron phillips Find me a speaker that has unchanging impedance throughout its frequency response, I'll wait
Or a speaker that has equal sensitivity throughout its response curve (hehehe I'll wait)
After that prove to me that shit amps don't exist (hint: oooooooooh they do)
A 10 times increase in power means a 10dB SPL increase, as the old saying goes
So as far as I'm concerned you're literally just talking shit or you make a habit of listening exclusively to sine waves
aaron phillips apparently you didn't even watch the video.
Given that they’re fan cooled and made to be racked, have you considered dropping like $200-300 on a pair of wood cases for them? I’m not saying that it would magically turn then into a pair of ‘70s hifi amps but it would go a long way toward dressing them up for fancy home duty.
I bought the crown xls1502 amp a year or so ago and I really like it depending on what I am trying to do with it. It does have an audible hiss/buzz when it's on and you aren't running sound through the speakers or you are doing low level listening. That hiss/buzz is exacerbated if you use the .775 input sensitivity. I bought mine because i had a 5 channel amp and needed two more channels for surrounds, but found that the hiss in my surround speakers drove me crazy so I had to find another solution. Using the Crown for a sub now and it functions perfectly in that capacity.
get an ART CleanBox Pro and you'll a) eliminate your hiss b) be able to go from rca inputs to xlr outputs c) reduce the gain settings on your XLS 1502 amp thereby eliminating your hiss (set to about 1 o'clock) d) boost your output signal with the cleanbox to very high levels allowing you to use the 1.4 input voltage instead of the 0.775 e) be happy and thank me later!!! :-)
Jinx Canada will all this actually work? I tried two different crown amps and couldn't get either to not have a horrible hum or buzz when trying to use them conjunction with my denon avr. would love a solution that would work.
My amp (Naim Supernait 1) is only 90W @ 8ohm and 149W @ 4 ohm. It drove my Magnepan 1.7s to painful volumes at the 12 o'clock position.
Whats the wattage at the wall for everything (itemized if separate pls...pls)
You should do a video with your old amp/speaker/song/dac etc combo and recreate it with the new amp. I'd be very curious to see if we could hear a difference between the Class A/B vs the Crown Class D.
I'd love to test one of those crowns on my test bench and see what the actual power at 14lbs is.
They're cheater amps! They produce more power then rated! Wilson Audio Labs tested a few Crowns already! People fail to realize class d amplifiers circuit comes rate off the transformers power source!
@@derekstanley1624 VERY familiar with all that. i come from a car audio competition backround and worked with many large companies over the years. but id still like to have one on the test bench here. ive actually build and designed car amps from scratch here as well. and there are many variants of class d out there now. not all class d are created equal either
27:41 what song is that
Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't American breakers usually trip at 15 amps? In that case, sorry Z, assuming both amps are on the same circuit, you've only got 825 wpc. Any serious audiophile runs each of their mono blocks on a separate 220V supply! ;-)
Cowboy Bebop Swordfish II painting above the TV/Monitor!!!
I think you should check out the Thomann T.Amp TSA 4-1300. It can run 4x1220w at 8ohm, 4x1670w at 4ohm, and if you bridge it, it does 2x4000w at 8ohm!
The amazing thing is that this amp is available for only $485, very low for that kind of power.
Also, it is a 4 channel amp, so may be useful for some form of surround sound?
So... What you are telling me is that my Sprout 100 will not be enough to drive the pair of Walsh 1000's I have on order?
ART TPS II 2-channel Tube Microphone Preamp
2-Channel Microphone/Instrument Preamp with Variable Valve Voicing, Variable Impedance, and Output Limiting
Zeos, this ART TPS II supports balanced line level inputs. This valve pre-amp has variable valve voicing so you can better match audio material you play though it.
i would like to check those wattage ratings with a oscilloscope, because that much power is silly
Around @5:40 I blew a speaker and it was partly my fault. Ummm... was the cat responsible too?
Do they double their distortion when you bridge them? S/n levels when bridged?
"Breathing. My amplifiers aren't stressed anymore..." Exactly. There is a benefit, an aural, sonic, musical benefit to having much more power available than one needs. That headroom is what gives life and vitality, a richer 3-D depth to the sound coming from speakers. Better speakers reveal the benefit better, and I am very happy for you that you discovered the Ohms. Its like the difference in sound (talking amps, here) between mp3 VS flac. There is a big difference in the sound of the two file types. It is in the detail of the music, the little things like the sound from the last three inches of a guitar string. Its there, but very few people hear it, and of the few who detect it, they do not know its origin, only that it is there. Their ears detect the vibrations (if present, all hardware considered, etc.) More power, clean and unstressed as you noted, is part of that delivery system. Love your passion for sonic excellence, Z.
Am I missing something here? I used Yamaha as-500 an 80w per channel AB class integrated amp, and it pushed anything that I plugged into it to painfully loud levels, from Dali epicon 6 to massive 4 ohm monitor audio towers, and a bunch of bookshelf speakers, and I never clipped it.
Maybe it's the speakers? I'll try borrowing ohm speakers from someone.
Chubbaca has learnt how to whistle OMG hilarious
Loud doesn't equal good, right?
Yeah loud seems to be all he wants with Crown
Was there anything in this review that compared actual sound quality? I must a missed that part
Alexander Scott No because who cares. It’s a pro amp, will sound good enough.
@@ilpatongi I CARE!!
Maybe for pro audio setups it doesn't matter to roadies n rockers whos hearing is mostly gone, but this is being reviewed as a home audio piece! (Audiophiles n enthusiasts who likely actually protected their hearing over the years!! )
So, if it doesn't matter, then why talk about it at all?! Pro audio horn speakers are already so sensitive, that any amp will drive these setups!. THEN it probably doesn't matter...
@@alexanderscott3790 He didn't talk about it.
You're probably 50, your hearing can't even tell the difference...
@@ilpatongi Close! Lol. However I've spent my life protecting my very good hearing, thank you! Oh I can hear a difference. And there definitely is one!
When you review sound equip, should know how it, well um, actually sounds, imo.
But then I guess you millennials just need to know if it turns on, and if the blue lights work!
Youre doing it right though
@@alexanderscott3790 You can't protect against frequency perception loss you genius, unless you have found a potion of eternal youth.
I've worked with PA and high end stuff well enough to know that to you old rags there's no difference because you literally can't hear it.
What a useless boomer comment, yeah, try protecting against old age...
Zeos is the only other channel I would patreon, the first being the water jet channel. Problem being that my debit card is basically empty most of the time as it only has money when I want to buy something epic at which point I spend all my monies. Throw ontop of that, my income is random and I can't do any payment's on a given day. At any rate, love you Zeos! Every time I get that audiophile bug I have to scratch it and watch your video's. Though I try not to a whole lot because my wallet has ADD and can't focus on one place let alone a saving's account. This video makes me want to tear apart my plebishly competent HT setup and start over with a rack mount.
oh, random thought. If you ever want to get maximum satisfaction out of your setup have a listening session with a blind man who has similar tastes in music, it helps if he hasn't experienced much hifi if any. Such a satisfying experience
You had to say Prodigy............. haven't heard that in I don't know how long. I'm about to clip my DX7 and/or HE400i's............ smack my bitch up! Oh what are your thought's on an equalizer, I found your friends channel Metal571 and he gives a tutorial on an EQ. My take is I wanted to buy a pair of m1060's until I EQ'd my hifiman's. I don't know what I'm doing on it but the signature is so much nicer.
meh, headphones are still lacking in bass
If you have to eat ramen EVER out of a Styrofoam cup don't bother throwing money at me. Save it for food my Brenden
Doesn't the Mini DSP convert analog input to digital then back to analog essentially rendering whatever dac you use before useless?
For music I use the DAC built into the MiniDSP HD. So it is very much in charge for music. Movies go through the dual conversion as they use the Analog input of the Receiver's Pre-out to funnel signal to the front channels.
Honestly can't tell it is happening.
Are these ratings full bandwidth 20 to 20K or at 1 Khz?
your neighbors are gonna love those
Your things have a kind of metal sound.How?amp? or speakers?
So is that RMS power or max because max is like nothing it should not be on anything ever
3db requires double the power so it doesnt make sense to get more power for your current speakers. IMO you should upgrade your speakers to something larger and more sensitve
Ever figure out the phantom sound which to me sounded like feedback?
Why the need for that much power? Do you turn the volume up that high? Out of curiosity what volume do you regularly play your home theater stereo system at? I play mine between 9 and 13 on the volume scale. But then I'm very happy with my Sony Strdh 130 receiver,Sony DVP SR510H player,Optimus STS 100 speakers and Optimus Pro SW 12 subwoofer. I built my system strictly for my music cd collection. I have always been very budget conscious.
27:45 remember when that was a futuristic thing for rich people, now a guy with a cat in his apartment is doing it
On the Crowns XLS 2502 where the power cable plugs in , it says 425 watts. How can they put out even 250 watts RMS per channel? If these amps were even 95 percent efficient they would only be capable of about 200 Watts RMS per channel. I have 2 each AT/Amplifier Technologies Inc, AT2505 amplifiers. Each are rated at 250 Watts RMS into 8ohm and 375 Watts RMS into 4 ohm all channels driven Simultaneously. Each amp needs its own 20 amp outlet to plug into. Where the Power cord plugs into the amplifiers it says 2400 watts. I had an 80 amp 120vac sub-panel box installed just outside of my A/V room. I installed 4 each 20 amp dual outlets to power all my equipment. The 2505 amps will run on a 15 amp circuit but if push hard I am certain will trip the breakers. 375 X 5 = 1875 Watts. The ATI 2505 are maybe 80 percent efficient.
Maybe I’m missing something but I really don’t think you can clip a speaker. Anything in the chain before the speaker can clip as clipping is essentially a dc signal while exceeding voltage rail limits
Physically you can reach the limits of what the magnet and voice coil are capable of. When that happens you have crashed the driver and bad things happen.
can you run a sub one channel.. using internal crossover filters.. and the other channel a regular full pass ?
Nope
I don’t think SVS pb16 is enough at 1500watts rms ... I’m thinking on building subwoofer box for a Sundown 12” subwoofer .... here’s my issue now i need to be able to plug it all into my gaming laptop.. the subwoofer is rated for 2000-2500watts rms but you can safely push 3,000 .. I think on doing a sealed box sense it’s so much power . What’s your take ?
23:16 you can say that again. Crown professional are made for driving huge ass PA systems in venues or rehearsal rooms 😂 but damn dawg, I ain't never heard anything but praise for crown
With that said; I think a couple of Electrocompaniet mono block would do nicely in your livingroom
I know this video is over a year old. My FIOS ONT has a battery box in the garage that makes that same sound because it wants a new battery... might be worth a look.
How can I have individual volume control remotely of each channel? Preferable under $30
Thought about splicing up two RCA bass knobs + - input with the sub wire then the other out RCA on the knob directly into the amp....but I don't understand how to determine if that is suitable for the 100-300 watt RMS draw from each channel
Will this work and if so any concerns/cons? Or any better options? Would appreciate replies from anyone that would be knowledgeable on best way to accomplish this. Cheers!
I want to get for of those but what do I hook these up too. I for the front and the others for the back wide and my front and back heights
I'm running a Pair of "Pro Audio" Bag End TA15's in my living room. They have a 103db sensitivity. I get them to CRANK beyond anyone would want them to with a 4 watt SET amp. George Wright 3.5 2A3 SET monoblock amps to be exact. He passed away alas but they were not that expensive when i purchased them new 15 years ago. All this speak of thousands of watts boggles my mind when i am driving these Bag End speakers to clean high output levels with only 4 watts. And it sounds fantastic! Is there THAT much of a difference between speaker sensitivities where you can kill with these speakers with only 4 watts and yet be clipping with speakers that are less sensitive with 600 watts? I don't get it
I thought it was the lower the ohm the easier it is to power. Our show that only apply to headphones?
Actually it gets harder for amps to do their jobs as the number of ohms goes up. As the the number of ohms go down the amplifier can put out more watts but it’ll also run hotter.
hi, wich is the player in your screen with the wallpapers on...?
Good evening Zeos, I also use a Crown XLS2502 for a subwoofer in one of our rooms. I recently purchased a few of these XLS2502 amps to use as mono block amps in a home theater (same as you). To my dismay, I quickly found the hiss (noise floor?) to be very noticeable. (various speakers tested)
Have you not noticed the hiss when these are run full range? I took one away from all my equipment to a spare room, with only a small speaker hooked up (no signal cable), and they still hissed just as loudly!
What is that contraption on your ceiling?
I love class a a/b, in winter all i have to do is turn my amps on and they heat the room in no time. In summer not so much fun, on a very hot day i don't turn them on without a fan blowing on them.
i downloaded the behringer a500 manual pdf, and look here:
RMS power bridge mono 8ohms with 1%THD is 375watts. that is why you feel the low power on this amp.
new Crown 2502 amp is 1550 watts 8ohm bridged 0.5%thd and 4ohm listed as you say.
easier to compare when you use 8 ohms numbers on both. also lower distortion on the crown, meaning that the behringer is actually lower than 375 watts if you want to play it without distrion.
How can you clipp 600 watts amp when powering a bookshelf speakers?
I would say the 600 watts spec is not true.
I have 80wpc amp and I never pass the 10 oclock position with my floorstand speakers because the speakers cant handle more power.
On 9 oclock it is very loud already. It shakes the room with bass.
You can check my videos..
Thank you for this video it is the answer to my problems!
Z Man, enjoy your reviews. Quick question, how are you sending the same signal to all your Crowns...are you using the 1/4 inch outputs on the Crowns?
Are you able to just plug these both into standard 15A outlets? Do you need 20 amp circuits, would running them on 220V making any difference? Looking in the manual for these I didn’t see anything on switching them from 110 to 220, or any of the circuit requirements 🤔 just curious.
The power supplys are multivoltage and switch automatically. So yeah you can run them on a 120v 15A circuit fine, you just wont be able to get the full output power.
I have a question about your crown amps: Do have the crossovers set on your amps, and if so where? Or should I just let the speaker crossovers do the work?
What are those subs?
The wattage isn’t everything, also the damping factor (not sure this is the right translation) plays a very important role in how the amp is able to control the speakers.
Usually on most name brand PA amplifiers the dampening factor is pretty solid.
i had my tweeters shoot out the front when my shit amp decided to play a loud popping sound on both channels the voice coil was physically infront of the magnet instead inside the slit
COOOOOL.. Don't sign me up.
Before I get lambasted for challenging your video, I must admit I enjoy your material. It is fun to watch and you have the "gift of gab", which is really essential in this type of presentation. Keep up the good work and thank you for the content! However with this video I think your train has left the tracks and is now traveling on a gravel road at full throttle. I had to pause the video half-way and type this. Anyway on to the topic at hand....How is 600 watts per channel too little power for driving primary speakers in a living room? And you have a third amp driving the subs right? How could an old school Mark Levinson ML-2, which is spec'd @ under 50 watts, melt the voice coil of any of your speakers if you demanded it to do so? A solid amp, putting out a solid 100 watts will have the police at your doorstep. Besides, the math really doesn't work. If each amp is potentially outputting 2400 watts then it must be potentially consuming more than 2400 watts. You say both amps are running through an Alexa wifi controlled switch on a single circuit? That would have to be an awesome switch to handle a 4800 watt load. Me thinks that wifi switch would need a hefty sized contactor in it to be worthy. That Alexa thingy probably has a small cube relay in it. At that weight and published spec there is no way those amps are not Class-D. Not enough iron in there. Didn't you say earlier in the video you didn't want a Class-D amp? You love the Ohm branded speaker, which I must admit I would love to own a pair myself. When you added the new Class-D amps how did the spacial imaging of music (not movies) change if they even changed at all?
I no is so ,,kool
You get it. Power numbers always make me laugh because you'll fry a home circuit running a few of these if they were actually pushing these numbers
When can we expect that SVS tower sub review?
How do you bridge mono?
Thumbs up for the awesome intro track! Lost Boys forever!
Ever look into QSC amps???
Father had an old one. Seemed solid but never did up-close SQ testing.
I have a friend that works there if you want me to ask him anything
qsc are about the best there is...truly top end gear
doubleu dee no
That Engrish?
What is that giant orange vu meter/eq display? It does not seem like the one linked in the description
Is a fake af fireplace is what it is.
I bet your neighbours love you dude!
So are you saying if a sound occurs that drives this amp to its peak wattage on both channels, that it could theoretically be pulling 40A @120VAC?
or 20A at 240 seeing as these were rated with a 240v input in mind
And here I thought Zeos doesn't do cuts. What's next? Editing?
Higher quality amp Vs tons of headroom?
is the minidsp hd being used as a preamp also?
Can someone create time stamps of all the times we hear the noise
I did hear that sound two times second time when he go hi in is voice a heard it, its acoustic feed back, sounds like the speakers works like a microphone and get a feed back signal in to the amplifiers. It can happens and with powerful amplifiers you can also pic up emitted peak radio signals Through the speaker wire!, therefore use shielded cables for the speakers and signal path
How is it that Naim power amp worth 3000 dollars plus only output 60w per channel and this stuff outputs 700+ watts per channel?
A Person But most speakers don't take more than 100w per channel. So why would you ever need 700w per channel?
For Sustained 110db sessions with 84db/w speakers running at 4 or 6Ω
hmm, but my kef q350 go up to 120 DB with no more than 70 w per channel?
Wait... just how expensive are those speaker stands you are using...
$1,400 each is the street price. Made in Brooklyn
You may have set a new record.
could these be used to amp a vinyl record player?
3:21, Like that pic on the TV XD
Someone once told me that a clipping amp sends line level current through to the speaker. Is this true?
When you are Clipping you are sending a Square Wave (if you clip it bad enough) instead of a Sinusoidal Wave. On a sidenote most Recievers put out between 2-4v/RMS, and on the low end of that scale you won't even be getting full power out of some Amps. Other then that I think your someone was fucking with you.
@Z reviews so you control the volume via the minidsp hd? What is your volume indicator (besides your ears, obviously)? Thanks
Mytek running away from Brooklyn Amp review!... so strange that there are no reviews at all of this while the DAC and DAC+ had so much attention. It seems they must have some concern not sending any unit for review since its release until now. The units did have some delay issues and some were even released without a manual and preinstalled with