Great. I knew something like this had to be possible. Got quoted a crazy price on tile in our laundry room and the guy wanted a huge transition piece. My parents 30 year old custom built home has no transitions from oak to tile with no cracks so I knew UA-cam would have the answer! Thanks!!
@@life_score Sorry to hear that. Mine has held up wonderfully in a high traffic area. I think there are 2 key details: 1) to make sure there is no "lip" of the caulk on the floor surfaces. This is done with the masking to the edge of the floor surface, and the cleanup stage, and (2) that the caulking is counter sunk in the filled gap. Since the caulking will shrink as it dries, you can ensure it's countersunken by "skimming" it when fresh to be either, level, or slightly below level when fresh. It will further shrink slightly to dry counter-sunken.
Thank you for such a great explanation. What brand of sanded caulk did you use ? I’ve looked but I can’t seem to find it by image. (Based on the image a the 50 second mark)
I believe it's Polyblend, or Custom Building Products. It was at Home Depot in right next to the dry bags of grout and is designed to be color matched.
It should. You will have extra shrinkage of the grout caulk so don't level/smooth it too aggressively, so that you don't remove too much caulk during that process. However, due to the height difference, I worry about a trip hazzard. You may want to look into a physical transition piece that will allow a more gradual transition to the new height. (if it's too late to install one, then you could make one of wood (if you have some skill with a router). Affix it to the wood floor and just a thin bead of caulk on the edge meeting the tile.
Those huge tacky 'transition strips' are trash. But there are L-shaped edging strips (the longer part of the 'L' sits under the tile, I guess it could sit under the wood if you preferred) available that are barely visible on the surface of the floor and match every.standard grout color that make a barrier between the wood and the grout/tile. I don't want to promote any brand names here but they are available for as little as $6 for an 8 foot strip at a major flooring and decoring chain and only slightly more costly at the 2 big US box store chains.They work great and there is no need to hodge-podge some hokey solution. Grout and wood don't mix. PERIOD. There needs to be some kind of barrier.
That’s what I was thinking instead of bulky transition strips. Thanks for the video
You are welcome. Yes, I'm very happy with both the functionality and the look since I did this job. Good luck!
Great. I knew something like this had to be possible. Got quoted a crazy price on tile in our laundry room and the guy wanted a huge transition piece. My parents 30 year old custom built home has no transitions from oak to tile with no cracks so I knew UA-cam would have the answer! Thanks!!
Glad that was helpful. How did it turn out?
@@SaveMoneyTV unfortunately, it didn’t last long for me with tables and chairs being dragged over it, so will have to look for different solution.
@@life_score Sorry to hear that. Mine has held up wonderfully in a high traffic area. I think there are 2 key details: 1) to make sure there is no "lip" of the caulk on the floor surfaces. This is done with the masking to the edge of the floor surface, and the cleanup stage, and (2) that the caulking is counter sunk in the filled gap. Since the caulking will shrink as it dries, you can ensure it's countersunken by "skimming" it when fresh to be either, level, or slightly below level when fresh. It will further shrink slightly to dry counter-sunken.
Thank you for such a great explanation. What brand of sanded caulk did you use ? I’ve looked but I can’t seem to find it by image. (Based on the image a the 50 second mark)
I believe it's Polyblend, or Custom Building Products. It was at Home Depot in right next to the dry bags of grout and is designed to be color matched.
This video is very helpful to me, thank you for sharing!
Glad it was helpful!
What a great video. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful. Thank you for watching!
Brilliant!
So happy to hear that it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
This is very helpful and it looks clean Thank you, we do not want a transition strip.
Thank you. I'm still very pleased with it. It is stable, has held up well through the seasons, and still looks like new.
Thanks for watching!
Great idea.
Thanks Ramon, and thank you for watching!
Would it work okay if the tile is approx ¼ inch higher than the hardwood? Thank you.
It should. You will have extra shrinkage of the grout caulk so don't level/smooth it too aggressively, so that you don't remove too much caulk during that process.
However, due to the height difference, I worry about a trip hazzard. You may want to look into a physical transition piece that will allow a more gradual transition to the new height. (if it's too late to install one, then you could make one of wood (if you have some skill with a router). Affix it to the wood floor and just a thin bead of caulk on the edge meeting the tile.
@@SaveMoneyTVdo you recommend sanding down the edges of the tile if the height difference is less than or around 1/8?
Those huge tacky 'transition strips' are trash. But there are L-shaped edging strips (the longer part of the 'L' sits under the tile, I guess it could sit under the wood if you preferred) available that are barely visible on the surface of the floor and match every.standard grout color that make a barrier between the wood and the grout/tile. I don't want to promote any brand names here but they are available for as little as $6 for an 8 foot strip at a major flooring and decoring chain and only slightly more costly at the 2 big US box store chains.They work great and there is no need to hodge-podge some hokey solution. Grout and wood don't mix. PERIOD. There needs to be some kind of barrier.