I have watched 3-4 videos on caulking a shower. Even the people I followed to build my shower did not describe and or show “how to” as well as you did. Thank you so much for the lesson, it will help me finish my shower the way it should be done.
Good deal, Scott, and thanks for your comment! Yes, a nice caulk job makes the difference in finishing off a project and is really pretty easy once you get the hang of it!
You are an expert caulker! The previous video I watched featured one of those silly spatula tools. Your way - using side pressure of the finger is the way I was taught forty years ago when I was a new cabinet installer. It is refreshing to see such a fine job done the 'old school' way. I would say that your gun leaves a little bit of room for improvement. I use the orange skeleton types which offer much precision.
Thanks for watching and for your comment, Rick! Yep, we older guys have our ways of doing things that have always worked so it’s kind of hard to make a switch to something else! I don’t know that I’ve ever tried a more expensive gun than the $2 ones. I have enough of them around that I typically just grab whichever one is handy and go with it! May have to check out your brand!
Are you kidding me? Expert caulker that is hilarious.I have been a professional caulker for over 40 years.1 expert caulkers do not use their fingers to “tool” the sealant. We use caulking tools or slickers of various shapes and sizes. 2. An “ expert” caulker would not use sanded caulk. It severely impedes the sealants ability to perform properly. 3. An “expert” caulker would NEVER use latex, any type of latex siliconized or not,in a wet area. The one thing he gets right is when he says “ I don’t know what I’m doing” These are all extremely amateur.
I went to redo the silicone in my bathroom of the new place I moved into not too long ago.. I remembered this video and watched it again to see how its done. It was a great tutorial!
Good video. Thanks. I’ve had a lot of luck using the cheap red no drip caulk guns. They work so much better than the pressure release ones with the thumb lever.
Thanks, Jaysp! There was a period of time when that particular brand of caulk I was using gave me fits as in when I was making this video. I could remove the tube completely from the caulk gun and caulk would still continue to ooze for several minutes. It must have been a manufacturing issue that was resolved because it has no longer been a problem for the past several years. I appreciate your comments and you watching!
Great video im sure you have helped many diy'rs. A good friend of mine did a great job tiling a tub surround and it went well all the way to the end and he butchered the caulk job. He asked me to help and i couldnt help but laugh. I told him to go slow little by little and dont rush keep your finger clean and it will be fine
Enjoyed your story, Recovery! I hate to caulk because it almost always takes twice the amount of time that I think it should. But, you have to do it right and well regardless of how long it takes because it makes the final result look so great! I feel for your friend but am glad you must have come off looking like a genius! That was sage advice!
Hey Rusty, you can relieve the pressure on most caulk guns by pressing the trigger release lever. (It's the lock-tab-thing that lets you pull the plunger back.) It should stop the caulk from continuing to flow out the tip!
Thanks, Gardonian. I love the brand of caulk I use because of the great color match, sanded or unsanded, with the available grout colors. But the issue I'm describing is not with the caulk gun. Once you advance the plunger and caulk begins to flow, you can literally pull the tube out of the caulk gun, set it on the floor and caulk will continue to flow out of the tube for several minutes. The cap that is provided for the caulk tube can be snapped in place and that will stop the flow. But that is a pain too. So, I pull the trigger to get the caulk flowing, release the pressure with the lever and then continue caulking the joint until the flow stops on its own. The plastic end that pushes the caulk forward in the tube is designed in such a way that it doesn't slide backwards when the pressure of the gun is removed. This particular brand of caulk is the worst I have ever seen for that issue but it is a great product otherwise.
Rusty Dobbs Thanks for the reply! I appreciate the great advice, it's going to help a lot to make a 300 meter caulking project look good. I may have to try your brand of caulk now! Cheers.
Rusty Dobbs hey! I bet it's air bubbles in the sealant that are pushing it out of the nozzle. I have the same problem with the pvc gap filler I use for fitting windows and doors. It's a bit of a procedure to get the air out for each new tube but makes it easier to apply and less wasteful. m.ua-cam.com/video/Ffsp3aOZOlw/v-deo.html I think the two dislikes are cos I put my open knife back in my pocket..😂 hope that helps..
@@RustyDobbs I've done a lot of caulking also over the years, not only tile but also windows, doors, pre-finished siding, etc. I made the switch to an air caulking gun and it's THE way to go. First off, when you're using a thick sealant like QuadMax, you won't get hand cramps from having to squeeze so hard. More important, it's so much easier to get a smooth bead (without bulges or ripples) and for the types of caulk I've used, it almost completely gets rid of the continued flowing when you stop pulling on the trigger. The gun I use is Chicago Pneumatic brand (about $50); it's solidly made, requires no maintenance except cleaning, and runs on very low pressure, 25 PSI or less, depending on the sealant. It does not require a large compressor either, so it's easy to move around. Add a poly hose and quick connects and you're good to go. I think the material you save will pay for the rig in short order.
Just happened along to this video... nice work! One thing to emphasize to anyone new to caulking, is to FILL the joint being caulked... don't just bridge it. You showed yourself doing it, but didn't make mention. Sometimes the angle you hold the caulk gun will help to push caulking into joint before smoothing it. If joint is bridged with caulk instead of filled with caulk, it will likely fail.
Thanks, Forlorn, and you make a great point! Yes, the subtle things we do when caulking feel right and become intuitive to folks who do it a lot, but someone new to the process will tend to just lay a bead of caulk on the joint and not let the pressure from and angle of the caulk gun force the caulk to really fill the joint. Boy, you know we have some time on our hands when we are discussing the finer technical points of caulking! 🙂 Thanks for watching!
PEOPLE, IT'S NOT THE CAULK GUN RELEASE. Like Randy said in the comments the issue is with the caulk itself. I've used the same caulk and it's so thin and watery that even with the pressure released some will still flow out. Not sure, but I suspect if they didn't make this type of caulk so thin you would have major balling and clumping issues.
Yeah, John, I'm not so sure the manufacturers haven't modified the plastic plunger at the back of the tube so that it is so tight it doesn't move backwards at all when the pressure is released from the caulk gun plunger. The fact that they now add a tight snap on cap to the nozzle indicates they are well aware of the issue. Unfortunately, the snap on cap is a huge pain to take on and off every time you need to add another bead of caulk to your line. Love the caulk, Not the tube!
I have found in the past few years, I can even remove the tube of caulk from the gun and still get a run out of caulk at times. I think the plastic plungers in the tube are manufactured so tight now that they don't move backwards even when pressure is removed.
This is a special demon i have tried a caulk gun that cost 40 bucks that retreats an 8th inch after you release the trigger and it still oozed. You just have to work through it lol
Do not use tape because when you remove it you will have 2 edges that will be bacteria holders. Plus it’s tedious & a waste of time. After calking spray water or water with a drop of dish soap on both the backsplash and counter top, then spray your finger and smooth out the calk in about 5” strokes, then wipe your finger clean, then respray you finger and continue. Repeat until the desired width of calk you like.😊 When you don’t use water the width of the calk can spread too wide on both the backsplash and counter.
Yep, good suggestions, John, that come from experience it sounds like! For me, I am trying to get the right amount of a bead of caulk in the joint the first pass so I don't get the joint too wide when I make my first pass with my finger. Pretty frustrating to have to remove more caulk because you laid down to much from the gun. A lousy caulk job can ruin an otherwise great tile installation. Thanks for your comments and for watching!
Yes, Jennifer, you can. When using a siliconized acrylic caulk like I am here that is water soluble, just be aware to too much water will cause the surface to run. You need to strike a balance between getting just the right amount of caulk coming out of the tip for the speed you are moving in order to only have a joint where you only wipe away a minimal amount of caulk. With your finger tip slightly damp, you can get a nice finish. It takes a little practice but is not hard once you get the hang of it.!
Thank you this was very informative, it will make the next time I do caulking a whole lot less messy. You were very clear but I was left with one question; how do you clean the sponge?
Thanks for your comment and question, W.A. I use a 5 gallon bucket of clean water that I keep two sponges in when I am caulking. After I run out of a clean spot on my sponge to wipe my finger, I drop it into the bucket. I pull out the other sponge, wring and squeeze it out a couple of times until most of the caulk is rinsed out of it then continue using it until it is covered with caulk again. Then repeat the process. This works great with siliconized acrylic caulk which is what I use to caulk tile. If you are using a caulk that is not water soluable like silicone, use the same caulking process but keep a roll of paper towels handy to wipe your finger on after a pass through the caulk. You'll use a bunch of paper towels but get a nice result. Hope that helps!
Not really. Any store that sells tile grouting supplies will have sponges available that are for grouting and those will work fine. I buy mine at Lowes in packs of 6. Thanks for your comment!
Not sure if I am following the reason behind your question, Mist. If you are sealing the tub edge where it rests on/in the platform as in this case, I don't fill the tub with water in order to caulk that joint. I'm assuming you are wondering if the tub needs to be under some tension before it caulking it in. With this particular tub, it would not have mattered either way.
Yes, Home Depot and Lowe’s both carry this type of caulk, Mark. In the tile departments, you should find siliconized acrylic latex caulk in both sanded and unsanded versions to match colors of grout that they carry.
It's really on an as needed basis particularly in areas that do not get wet. In wet areas, I would suggest checking your caulk joints on an annual basis and recaulk as needed.
Buy a better caulking gun because to be honest this is really sloppy and the gun is part of the problem. You are putting way too much caulk down which you end up having to wipe off anyway. The tip should be cut at a slight angle and when caulking don't tilt the gun so much you should be almost perpendicular to the joint so that the caulk is going into the joint and not laid across the top of the joint. Don't drag the tip instead the tip should lead or be ahead of the gun. Your pushing the tip not pulling it and the gun should be slightly angled behind the tip. If you cut the tip to the right width/angle and hold the gun at the right angle the tip will tool the caulking if you move at the correct pace and it will leave a bead that requires very little smoothing. It's a real art and takes some practice to get it right. what about caulks like silicon or polyurethane that are not water soluble and are better choices for wet areas like bathroom. Not the best idea to smooth those with your fingers. The Silicone Acrylic caulks are easier to work with but don't last for shit around a toilet or bathtub. All the little ridges on our fingertips (uh.. fingerprints) makes fingers great finish tools. But it doesn't take long for wet skin to soften and you abrade the ridges down. Then the finger doesn't wipe as well and eventually your in pain. Try using your finger to finish sanded grout as the cement will make you fingers burn so bad you won't be able to sleep that night. No don't try that.
Well George, I appreciate you taking the time to comment and I think you are genuinely trying to be helpful. I have not taken offense to your comments, but I have to say that you are the first person in 40+ years of doing tile work to have anything negative to say about my caulking jobs, in fact, quite the opposite is the case. I will concede that your comments are very thorough and I really think that you have probably done a lot more caulking than I have. So, I will happily relinquish my Caulking King crown to you! 😀 But since I am a creature of habit, I suspect the next time I cut the tip off a tube of caulking, I’m sure I’ll do it the same way I always have.
@@RustyDobbs That was the most diplomatic, classy response I think I've ever seen. Thanks for the video, I was just using that Spectrum Caulk today and wanted to get some pointers on how the pros do it. Also, DGeorge, if touching grout a couple times with your finger tip makes them burn when you go to bed at night, I suggest maybe trying some other brand and/or working on those callouses just a little bit.
@@ethandyer9262 Thanks for your comment, Ethan! Yeah, I had to think about that for a few days before I responded because I really wasn’t quite sure how to take his comments. In the end, I concluded that he actually may know a lot more about the caulking than I do, which is fine with me! That particular job I think I spent a full day caulking corners with all the nooks and crannies in that bathroom. I hate those kinds of days! But caulking is one of those things you have to do and have to be meticulous about because it ultimately makes the tile job.
Releasing the pressure lever works with this type of caulk when you are down to about 1/8th of a tube of caulk left. With a new tube, one click of pressure from the caulk gun keeps caulk flowing for several minutes even if you pull the tube completely out of the gun. I think they are making the plungers in the caulk tubes so tight these days that they only move forward in the tube and not backwards. There are caps for the tips of the caulk tubes that snap in place and will stop the flow, but are a huge pain to be taking off and on when doing a lot of caulking. Just something you deal with using this type of caulk.
This caulk is siliconized acrylic caulk that comes in sanded and unsanded versions in colors that match the color of grout you are using... or you can use white or clear silicone if you want.
I have watched 3-4 videos on caulking a shower. Even the people I followed to build my shower did not describe and or show “how to” as well as you did. Thank you so much for the lesson, it will help me finish my shower the way it should be done.
Good deal, Scott, and thanks for your comment! Yes, a nice caulk job makes the difference in finishing off a project and is really pretty easy once you get the hang of it!
You are an expert caulker! The previous video I watched featured one of those silly spatula tools. Your way - using side pressure of the finger is the way I was taught forty years ago when I was a new cabinet installer. It is refreshing to see such a fine job done the 'old school' way. I would say that your gun leaves a little bit of room for improvement. I use the orange skeleton types which offer much precision.
Thanks for watching and for your comment, Rick! Yep, we older guys have our ways of doing things that have always worked so it’s kind of hard to make a switch to something else! I don’t know that I’ve ever tried a more expensive gun than the $2 ones. I have enough of them around that I typically just grab whichever one is handy and go with it! May have to check out your brand!
Are you kidding me? Expert caulker that is hilarious.I have been a professional caulker for over 40 years.1 expert caulkers do not use their fingers to “tool” the sealant. We use caulking tools or slickers of various shapes and sizes. 2. An “ expert” caulker would not use sanded caulk. It severely impedes the sealants ability to perform properly. 3. An “expert” caulker would NEVER use latex, any type of latex siliconized or not,in a wet area. The one thing he gets right is when he says “ I don’t know what I’m doing”
These are all extremely amateur.
I went to redo the silicone in my bathroom of the new place I moved into not too long ago.. I remembered this video and watched it again to see how its done. It was a great tutorial!
Hey, thanks Adam! I'm glad you found it helpful! Yeah, once you get the hang of it, its not difficult to get a really nice caulk job.
Thanks, Rusty :) I removed old caulk and replaced it. This really helped.
Yes, Natalie, new caulk makes all the difference in the world! I appreciate you watching! 🙂
Good video. Thanks. I’ve had a lot of luck using the cheap red no drip caulk guns. They work so much better than the pressure release ones with the thumb lever.
Thanks, Jaysp! There was a period of time when that particular brand of caulk I was using gave me fits as in when I was making this video. I could remove the tube completely from the caulk gun and caulk would still continue to ooze for several minutes. It must have been a manufacturing issue that was resolved because it has no longer been a problem for the past several years. I appreciate your comments and you watching!
Great video im sure you have helped many diy'rs. A good friend of mine did a great job tiling a tub surround and it went well all the way to the end and he butchered the caulk job.
He asked me to help and i couldnt help but laugh. I told him to go slow little by little and dont rush keep your finger clean and it will be fine
Enjoyed your story, Recovery! I hate to caulk because it almost always takes twice the amount of time that I think it should. But, you have to do it right and well regardless of how long it takes because it makes the final result look so great! I feel for your friend but am glad you must have come off looking like a genius! That was sage advice!
Absolutely beautiful bathroom
Thanks, Roddy!
Hey Rusty, you can relieve the pressure on most caulk guns by pressing the trigger release lever. (It's the lock-tab-thing that lets you pull the plunger back.) It should stop the caulk from continuing to flow out the tip!
Thanks, Gardonian. I love the brand of caulk I use because of the great color match, sanded or unsanded, with the available grout colors. But the issue I'm describing is not with the caulk gun. Once you advance the plunger and caulk begins to flow, you can literally pull the tube out of the caulk gun, set it on the floor and caulk will continue to flow out of the tube for several minutes. The cap that is provided for the caulk tube can be snapped in place and that will stop the flow. But that is a pain too. So, I pull the trigger to get the caulk flowing, release the pressure with the lever and then continue caulking the joint until the flow stops on its own. The plastic end that pushes the caulk forward in the tube is designed in such a way that it doesn't slide backwards when the pressure of the gun is removed. This particular brand of caulk is the worst I have ever seen for that issue but it is a great product otherwise.
Rusty Dobbs Thanks for the reply! I appreciate the great advice, it's going to help a lot to make a 300 meter caulking project look good. I may have to try your brand of caulk now! Cheers.
300 meters??? Good luck with that one, Gardonian! Glad I am NOT there to help you!
Rusty Dobbs hey! I bet it's air bubbles in the sealant that are pushing it out of the nozzle. I have the same problem with the pvc gap filler I use for fitting windows and doors. It's a bit of a procedure to get the air out for each new tube but makes it easier to apply and less wasteful.
m.ua-cam.com/video/Ffsp3aOZOlw/v-deo.html
I think the two dislikes are cos I put my open knife back in my pocket..😂 hope that helps..
@@RustyDobbs I've done a lot of caulking also over the years, not only tile but also windows, doors, pre-finished siding, etc. I made the switch to an air caulking gun and it's THE way to go. First off, when you're using a thick sealant like QuadMax, you won't get hand cramps from having to squeeze so hard. More important, it's so much easier to get a smooth bead (without bulges or ripples) and for the types of caulk I've used, it almost completely gets rid of the continued flowing when you stop pulling on the trigger. The gun I use is Chicago Pneumatic brand (about $50); it's solidly made, requires no maintenance except cleaning, and runs on very low pressure, 25 PSI or less, depending on the sealant. It does not require a large compressor either, so it's easy to move around. Add a poly hose and quick connects and you're good to go. I think the material you save will pay for the rig in short order.
Just happened along to this video... nice work! One thing to emphasize to anyone new to caulking, is to FILL the joint being caulked... don't just bridge it. You showed yourself doing it, but didn't make mention. Sometimes the angle you hold the caulk gun will help to push caulking into joint before smoothing it. If joint is bridged with caulk instead of filled with caulk, it will likely fail.
Thanks, Forlorn, and you make a great point! Yes, the subtle things we do when caulking feel right and become intuitive to folks who do it a lot, but someone new to the process will tend to just lay a bead of caulk on the joint and not let the pressure from and angle of the caulk gun force the caulk to really fill the joint. Boy, you know we have some time on our hands when we are discussing the finer technical points of caulking! 🙂 Thanks for watching!
Nice job!
Thanks, Inspectors! I appreciate you watching!
PEOPLE, IT'S NOT THE CAULK GUN RELEASE. Like Randy said in the comments the issue is with the caulk itself. I've used the same caulk and it's so thin and watery that even with the pressure released some will still flow out.
Not sure, but I suspect if they didn't make this type of caulk so thin you would have major balling and clumping issues.
Yeah, John, I'm not so sure the manufacturers haven't modified the plastic plunger at the back of the tube so that it is so tight it doesn't move backwards at all when the pressure is released from the caulk gun plunger. The fact that they now add a tight snap on cap to the nozzle indicates they are well aware of the issue. Unfortunately, the snap on cap is a huge pain to take on and off every time you need to add another bead of caulk to your line. Love the caulk, Not the tube!
Thank you for this lesson! Going to try it now!
Good luck, Jeremy! Takes a little practice to feed out just the right amount of caulk to make cleanup easy but I bet you figured out.
“Always cut toward your chum, never cut toward your thumb.”
But what if I like to live dangerously, Bhakti?
Rusty Dobbs this is definitely one of the best caulking jobs that I have seen - first class! Thanks!
Thanks, Bhakti!
An anti-drip caulking gun really helps to prevent the continuous run of caulk out of the gun...
I have found in the past few years, I can even remove the tube of caulk from the gun and still get a run out of caulk at times. I think the plastic plungers in the tube are manufactured so tight now that they don't move backwards even when pressure is removed.
This is a special demon i have tried a caulk gun that cost 40 bucks that retreats an 8th inch after you release the trigger and it still oozed. You just have to work through it lol
I have always just released pressure on that metal clip that locks the piston not sure what it's called that usually stops the flow.
Do not use tape because when you remove it you will have 2 edges that will be bacteria holders. Plus it’s tedious & a waste of time. After calking spray water or water with a drop of dish soap on both the backsplash and counter top, then spray your finger and smooth out the calk in about 5” strokes, then wipe your finger clean, then respray you finger and continue. Repeat until the desired width of calk you like.😊 When you don’t use water the width of the calk can spread too wide on both the backsplash and counter.
Yep, good suggestions, John, that come from experience it sounds like! For me, I am trying to get the right amount of a bead of caulk in the joint the first pass so I don't get the joint too wide when I make my first pass with my finger. Pretty frustrating to have to remove more caulk because you laid down to much from the gun. A lousy caulk job can ruin an otherwise great tile installation. Thanks for your comments and for watching!
Can we smooth the caulk with a wet finger?
Yes, Jennifer, you can. When using a siliconized acrylic caulk like I am here that is water soluble, just be aware to too much water will cause the surface to run. You need to strike a balance between getting just the right amount of caulk coming out of the tip for the speed you are moving in order to only have a joint where you only wipe away a minimal amount of caulk. With your finger tip slightly damp, you can get a nice finish. It takes a little practice but is not hard once you get the hang of it.!
Thank you this was very informative, it will make the next time I do caulking a whole lot less messy. You were very clear but I was left with one question; how do you clean the sponge?
Thanks for your comment and question, W.A. I use a 5 gallon bucket of clean water that I keep two sponges in when I am caulking. After I run out of a clean spot on my sponge to wipe my finger, I drop it into the bucket. I pull out the other sponge, wring and squeeze it out a couple of times until most of the caulk is rinsed out of it then continue using it until it is covered with caulk again. Then repeat the process. This works great with siliconized acrylic caulk which is what I use to caulk tile. If you are using a caulk that is not water soluable like silicone, use the same caulking process but keep a roll of paper towels handy to wipe your finger on after a pass through the caulk. You'll use a bunch of paper towels but get a nice result. Hope that helps!
I was also wondering about the sponge. Thanks for your detailed answer.
Does the type of sponge matter?
Not really. Any store that sells tile grouting supplies will have sponges available that are for grouting and those will work fine. I buy mine at Lowes in packs of 6. Thanks for your comment!
@@1thinkhealthy Me too does the sponge have to be yellow or can it be a different color?
do you have to fill the tub with water before calking
Not sure if I am following the reason behind your question, Mist. If you are sealing the tub edge where it rests on/in the platform as in this case, I don't fill the tub with water in order to caulk that joint. I'm assuming you are wondering if the tub needs to be under some tension before it caulking it in. With this particular tub, it would not have mattered either way.
Does Home Depot or Lowes carry this product?
Yes, Home Depot and Lowe’s both carry this type of caulk, Mark. In the tile departments, you should find siliconized acrylic latex caulk in both sanded and unsanded versions to match colors of grout that they carry.
@@RustyDobbs thank you Rusty, for your help.
Isn't it hazardous to get the caulk in your fingertips
Not as hazardous as a lot of things I do, edge.
How often do you recommend to re-caulk?
It's really on an as needed basis particularly in areas that do not get wet. In wet areas, I would suggest checking your caulk joints on an annual basis and recaulk as needed.
@@RustyDobbs thank you.
Practice. Practice. Practice.
... makes perfect, perfect, perfect!!!
Buy a better caulking gun because to be honest this is really sloppy and the gun is part of the problem. You are putting way too much caulk down which you end up having to wipe off anyway. The tip should be cut at a slight angle and when caulking don't tilt the gun so much you should be almost perpendicular to the joint so that the caulk is going into the joint and not laid across the top of the joint. Don't drag the tip instead the tip should lead or be ahead of the gun. Your pushing the tip not pulling it and the gun should be slightly angled behind the tip. If you cut the tip to the right width/angle and hold the gun at the right angle the tip will tool the caulking if you move at the correct pace and it will leave a bead that requires very little smoothing. It's a real art and takes some practice to get it right.
what about caulks like silicon or polyurethane that are not water soluble and are better choices for wet areas like bathroom. Not the best idea to smooth those with your fingers. The Silicone Acrylic caulks are easier to work with but don't last for shit around a toilet or bathtub.
All the little ridges on our fingertips (uh.. fingerprints) makes fingers great finish tools. But it doesn't take long for wet skin to soften and you abrade the ridges down. Then the finger doesn't wipe as well and eventually your in pain. Try using your finger to finish sanded grout as the cement will make you fingers burn so bad you won't be able to sleep that night. No don't try that.
Well George, I appreciate you taking the time to comment and I think you are genuinely trying to be helpful. I have not taken offense to your comments, but I have to say that you are the first person in 40+ years of doing tile work to have anything negative to say about my caulking jobs, in fact, quite the opposite is the case. I will concede that your comments are very thorough and I really think that you have probably done a lot more caulking than I have. So, I will happily relinquish my Caulking King crown to you! 😀 But since I am a creature of habit, I suspect the next time I cut the tip off a tube of caulking, I’m sure I’ll do it the same way I always have.
@@RustyDobbs That was the most diplomatic, classy response I think I've ever seen. Thanks for the video, I was just using that Spectrum Caulk today and wanted to get some pointers on how the pros do it. Also, DGeorge, if touching grout a couple times with your finger tip makes them burn when you go to bed at night, I suggest maybe trying some other brand and/or working on those callouses just a little bit.
@@ethandyer9262 Thanks for your comment, Ethan! Yeah, I had to think about that for a few days before I responded because I really wasn’t quite sure how to take his comments. In the end, I concluded that he actually may know a lot more about the caulking than I do, which is fine with me! That particular job I think I spent a full day caulking corners with all the nooks and crannies in that bathroom. I hate those kinds of days! But caulking is one of those things you have to do and have to be meticulous about because it ultimately makes the tile job.
I wish it was that easy to work with 100% silicone.
Yep, JC, silicone is such a great and versatile product, but what a pain to work with!
And press the release so it does release from the tube
Releasing the pressure lever works with this type of caulk when you are down to about 1/8th of a tube of caulk left. With a new tube, one click of pressure from the caulk gun keeps caulk flowing for several minutes even if you pull the tube completely out of the gun. I think they are making the plungers in the caulk tubes so tight these days that they only move forward in the tube and not backwards. There are caps for the tips of the caulk tubes that snap in place and will stop the flow, but are a huge pain to be taking off and on when doing a lot of caulking. Just something you deal with using this type of caulk.
Silicon bro
This caulk is siliconized acrylic caulk that comes in sanded and unsanded versions in colors that match the color of grout you are using... or you can use white or clear silicone if you want.