Corbett and Grace Lunsford of Home Performance Diagnostics are putting together a series of online courses on the Manual J, Manual D, and one or more other manuals that I don't remember. Would love to see you review them when they come out.
fantastic vids bro...to the point, well done, no dumb jokes, and you didnt show us your pets...brilliant!🤣 two questions - i have a pit run hole that i have dug for my house pad and road into my property. it sits about 200 ft from the house, about 100ft X 200ft at around 12 ft deep. in the summer the sub water comes up to about 9ft, then recedes to about 20ft during the winter. eventually i will install a pond liner and turn this gravel pit into a pond. i am thinking of putting in pex loops down say 9ft in the bottom of the pond...then coming up to say 12ft to go from the pond to the house. would like your .02 on this. question #2, how did you do your pex joints in the loop field? just regular pex coupler clamps? fyi, i am in south eastern idaho. thanks
#1 - That sounds like an excellent plan. #2 - I used HDPE SDR11 pipe and put all of my joints inside the house. You can have HDPE fused, which eliminates mechanical joints.
so this style of pex u used somehow comes in a massive roll? i was thinking it would come in like 200 ft roles? if your loop runs are say 600ft, you must be able to get roles longer than that? also...you went with a forced air system, why not in floor coils? we will have flat slab with 2 stories, around 10,000 sqft, 2700 of which is a big bonus room above the attached 30x90 shop...thanks
I tried to attach a pic of what i am doing, but i dont think its possible to do so...i think you and your viewers would find it interesting. if there is a way to put one up, let me know, but, i dont think youtube allows it. anyway...i have reached out to bosch and carrier to see if either of them would help size and design the system i need. carrier referred me to a dealer out of boise...bosch said they they will see what they can do...so will see what happens...did you get any help from bosch? i started my coil trench in the bottom of the pond. its like digging in a box of marbles here. we have two to three feet of topsoil, then straight pit run. there is enough moisture left over that the sides of the trench are not caving to bad, i am hoping that they will freeze and i can get close enough to line the bottom with topsoil, or tamp down the rocks flat. i decided that i will go 1 inch black poly to allow a little better flow since this run will be quite long, and rent a joint welder once i get it all laid out. my trench is about 6ft wide and about 10 ft deep. interestingly there was a frozen layer of about a foot...when i got down about 10 ft, i was seeing temps of 40 deg, which should increase some once everything is in and the pond is filled with water. at 10 ft, plus another 12 ft with the dept of the pond, it will put these coils at around 20 ft. right now there is no standing water, but, i know i am very close as the pit run is wet. the pond will have to be lined in order to hold water, so, during the winter months the coils wont have water around them, but, water will be within a few ft so i think the system will transfer fine. you mentioned that for your system you needed 600 ft of coil per ton, which at 5 ft per ft your runs must have been around 120 ft each? i am also doing ICF, no basement, but two story, barndominium style, going for open space. i would put up a pdf if it would allow me to. anyway...question i have is concerning the heat pumps. say i did one long coil run and that i needed three 4 ton units...how do those 4 units get fed what they each need from one coil field? there must be a manifold system with computer controlled valving that allows each unit to push or pull what it needs?
Great info, thank you Garrett. We have a 3000 sf two story, non-zoned 1970 slab home with a down-draft gas furnace on one acre we're just starting to scratch our heads about retrofitting to Geo-Thermal. Do you have any idea the extra cost associated with vertically boring, is that remotely a possibility? Even if I have to dig down to construct an exterior boxed-in wall below frost line, knock some flooring out and run to furnace room. Building forever I know almost anything is possible, and of course I would do much of the work myself. We're just east of you in central Missouri. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
You can definitely do a vertical system. Your best bet is to call your local water well drilling companies to see what they charge per foot of bore. That will give you an idea.
Might be a strange question but I am running Gas, Water, and Electric 500' underground to my house, ( I have 10 acres). I plan on digging 3 trenches at 500' each for each utility. I plan to place 3 "Slinky" 600' coils in 1 trench (3 ton unit) and 5 "slinky" 600 ft coil run in the center trench (5 Ton Unit). Lastly 1 600 ft slinky run in the last trench (1 ton Unit). Instead of having a manifold for each, can I simply connect each slinky in each run together for a total of 3 individual runs ( 1 long run in each trench). This would allow me to not have to have a manifold and only have 2 lines for each run coming int the house in the area of their respected HVAC system.
What are your thoughts on direct exchange system in which copper pipes are buried in the ground and refrigerant is pumped through them??? Since Copper is a good conductor of electricity, shorter lengths are required. Corrosion is managed through cathodic protection.
Hi Garrett, What about drilling down for a U shaped down-and-back (closed loop) run of pipe instead of making the loop fields? would multiple shallow wells 50' deep require less total pipe length since they would be deeper in the earth? A small 4" bore hole DIY drilling rig might be fairly quick and cost effective.
I was thinking about your question. My take on that is this. The down and back piping would be rather near each other. So, in cooling mode, some of the heat from the tubing that was intended to be absorbed into the earth would be transferred into the return tubing, that was intended to be free from heat in order to have the capacity to provide further heat absorption. The hottest part of your tubing would be transferring heat to what was supposed to be the coolest part. The greater the differential, the greater the heat transfer. I hope that makes sense. If you could drill down, and then make a 90 degree turn for 3 or 4 feet and then come back up it would work very well I think.
We are about to begin our long awaited build on the east side of the KC Metro and planning to leverage DIY geothermal. Wondering if there is a functional reason NOT to go with a wide ditch and go all the way down and all the way back (say 10 foot x 50 foot long and running straight 50 foot lengths about a foot apart)? We will be ‘trenching’ with a Bobcat and want to move quickly with the loops so trying to avoid the slinky). Still getting 600 foot per ton.
Im located in Kansas as well and looking to add a geothermal HVAC system to my house. What supplier did you use to help with the materials and sizing of your system?
Any thoughts on running loop fields underneath the septic drain field? Around here the drainage runs are usually only 2-3 feet deep. Seems like an ideal place for dual use of the ground.
@@Challenged1 just watched your Step-by-Step DIY Geothermal part 2 video where you suggest this. 🤦♂️ I should’ve watched the entire series before asking.
building new home and to level home pad moving dirt and building pond would it work to put loop field in soil of pond before it fills thus soil will be moist and have better tranfer
Is there an efficiency advantage/disadvantage to adding another 600 feet of pex while I'm at it? I'd like to err on the safe side and add extra while I have the trench open.
Any Chance you would take a zoom call for a couple of questions. I'm quite literally building the same house you did, almost 6k sqft as well. Just would like to pick your brain a bit
@@AddictedCreationz I misread your first question. While you may be able to shorten the lines a little, I don't know the calculation. You want the liquid in the line to have as much contact with the edge of the pipe as possible, so there is maximized heat transfer. The larger the pipe, the further the distance of the liquid in the center of the pipe to the outer edge of the pipe. If I were you, I'd stick to the 600' circuits.
I have high ground water at about 10ft which is great for a heat transfer medium. I’m trying to find a liquid that doesn’t freeze but is non toxic just in case the pipe develops a leak into the ground water-any ideas?
I've seen multiple videos of HVAC companies putting 3 loops in the same wide trench and they can't be more than a foot or two apart. In your video you mention loops need to be 10 feet apart. Why are these companies putting 3 of them so close together? Thanks!
@@Challenged1 your way made way more sense anyway! I thought that may be the case. What's bad is people just don't know to question it. Thanks for the reply.
@@Challenged1 I am joking with you, not at you. I am interested in running Geo thermals lines and designing things for our OFF-grid home, dont mind me, just interested in actually doing it too!!! Thank you Garrett!!!
Hi from Istanbul Garrett. Thank you very much for these valuable info. All the best
I appreciate you watching!!!
Corbett and Grace Lunsford of Home Performance Diagnostics are putting together a series of online courses on the Manual J, Manual D, and one or more other manuals that I don't remember. Would love to see you review them when they come out.
Is there anything we need to bear in mind if we attempt to get rebates/tax credits from the Inflation Reduction Act for this system?
fantastic vids bro...to the point, well done, no dumb jokes, and you didnt show us your pets...brilliant!🤣 two questions - i have a pit run hole that i have dug for my house pad and road into my property. it sits about 200 ft from the house, about 100ft X 200ft at around 12 ft deep. in the summer the sub water comes up to about 9ft, then recedes to about 20ft during the winter. eventually i will install a pond liner and turn this gravel pit into a pond. i am thinking of putting in pex loops down say 9ft in the bottom of the pond...then coming up to say 12ft to go from the pond to the house. would like your .02 on this. question #2, how did you do your pex joints in the loop field? just regular pex coupler clamps? fyi, i am in south eastern idaho. thanks
#1 - That sounds like an excellent plan.
#2 - I used HDPE SDR11 pipe and put all of my joints inside the house. You can have HDPE fused, which eliminates mechanical joints.
so this style of pex u used somehow comes in a massive roll? i was thinking it would come in like 200 ft roles? if your loop runs are say 600ft, you must be able to get roles longer than that? also...you went with a forced air system, why not in floor coils? we will have flat slab with 2 stories, around 10,000 sqft, 2700 of which is a big bonus room above the attached 30x90 shop...thanks
@@ultimateconcealcarry4671 You can get many different lengths of pipe. The pipe you want is either, PEX-A or HDPE SDR11. My HDPE came in 600' rolls
thanks...i appreciate the info.
I tried to attach a pic of what i am doing, but i dont think its possible to do so...i think you and your viewers would find it interesting. if there is a way to put one up, let me know, but, i dont think youtube allows it. anyway...i have reached out to bosch and carrier to see if either of them would help size and design the system i need. carrier referred me to a dealer out of boise...bosch said they they will see what they can do...so will see what happens...did you get any help from bosch? i started my coil trench in the bottom of the pond. its like digging in a box of marbles here. we have two to three feet of topsoil, then straight pit run. there is enough moisture left over that the sides of the trench are not caving to bad, i am hoping that they will freeze and i can get close enough to line the bottom with topsoil, or tamp down the rocks flat. i decided that i will go 1 inch black poly to allow a little better flow since this run will be quite long, and rent a joint welder once i get it all laid out. my trench is about 6ft wide and about 10 ft deep. interestingly there was a frozen layer of about a foot...when i got down about 10 ft, i was seeing temps of 40 deg, which should increase some once everything is in and the pond is filled with water. at 10 ft, plus another 12 ft with the dept of the pond, it will put these coils at around 20 ft. right now there is no standing water, but, i know i am very close as the pit run is wet. the pond will have to be lined in order to hold water, so, during the winter months the coils wont have water around them, but, water will be within a few ft so i think the system will transfer fine. you mentioned that for your system you needed 600 ft of coil per ton, which at 5 ft per ft your runs must have been around 120 ft each? i am also doing ICF, no basement, but two story, barndominium style, going for open space. i would put up a pdf if it would allow me to. anyway...question i have is concerning the heat pumps. say i did one long coil run and that i needed three 4 ton units...how do those 4 units get fed what they each need from one coil field? there must be a manifold system with computer controlled valving that allows each unit to push or pull what it needs?
Great info, thank you Garrett.
We have a 3000 sf two story, non-zoned 1970 slab home with a down-draft gas furnace on one acre we're just starting to scratch our heads about retrofitting to Geo-Thermal. Do you have any idea the extra cost associated with vertically boring, is that remotely a possibility? Even if I have to dig down to construct an exterior boxed-in wall below frost line, knock some flooring out and run to furnace room. Building forever I know almost anything is possible, and of course I would do much of the work myself. We're just east of you in central Missouri.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
You can definitely do a vertical system. Your best bet is to call your local water well drilling companies to see what they charge per foot of bore. That will give you an idea.
Hi there, thank you for sharing your experience. Do you mind to share where you purchase your unit? Thank you.
A local supplier in Wichita, KS
Might be a strange question but I am running Gas, Water, and Electric 500' underground to my house, ( I have 10 acres). I plan on digging 3 trenches at 500' each for each utility. I plan to place 3 "Slinky" 600' coils in 1 trench (3 ton unit) and 5 "slinky" 600 ft coil run in the center trench (5 Ton Unit). Lastly 1 600 ft slinky run in the last trench (1 ton Unit). Instead of having a manifold for each, can I simply connect each slinky in each run together for a total of 3 individual runs ( 1 long run in each trench). This would allow me to not have to have a manifold and only have 2 lines for each run coming int the house in the area of their respected HVAC system.
You can, but you may need to upsize the line to overcome the increased friction inside the pipe.
What are your thoughts on direct exchange system in which copper pipes are buried in the ground and refrigerant is pumped through them??? Since Copper is a good conductor of electricity, shorter lengths are required. Corrosion is managed through cathodic protection.
Hi Garrett, What about drilling down for a U shaped down-and-back (closed loop) run of pipe instead of making the loop fields? would multiple shallow wells 50' deep require less total pipe length since they would be deeper in the earth? A small 4" bore hole DIY drilling rig might be fairly quick and cost effective.
I was thinking about your question. My take on that is this. The down and back piping would be rather near each other. So, in cooling mode, some of the heat from the tubing that was intended to be absorbed into the earth would be transferred into the return tubing, that was intended to be free from heat in order to have the capacity to provide further heat absorption. The hottest part of your tubing would be transferring heat to what was supposed to be the coolest part. The greater the differential, the greater the heat transfer.
I hope that makes sense. If you could drill down, and then make a 90 degree turn for 3 or 4 feet and then come back up it would work very well I think.
We are about to begin our long awaited build on the east side of the KC Metro and planning to leverage DIY geothermal. Wondering if there is a functional reason NOT to go with a wide ditch and go all the way down and all the way back (say 10 foot x 50 foot long and running straight 50 foot lengths about a foot apart)? We will be ‘trenching’ with a Bobcat and want to move quickly with the loops so trying to avoid the slinky). Still getting 600 foot per ton.
You can definitely do straight runs, nothing wrong with it other than it takes more digging and more land
Im located in Kansas as well and looking to add a geothermal HVAC system to my house. What supplier did you use to help with the materials and sizing of your system?
Key Refrigeration in Wichita. You'll need to know someone with a refrigeration license/account to make a purchase.
Good stuff!
Is there anything you would do differently if you could go back in time?
Any thoughts on running loop fields underneath the septic drain field? Around here the drainage runs are usually only 2-3 feet deep. Seems like an ideal place for dual use of the ground.
That's a perfect place for them.
@@Challenged1 just watched your Step-by-Step DIY Geothermal part 2 video where you suggest this. 🤦♂️ I should’ve watched the entire series before asking.
@@thatguy7705 It's all good
Hi, how did you go about figuring your loop lengths? I'm wondering how long you would need for a 3 ton system.
It all depends on the soil characteristics
Lots of clay....
@@smeek111 Then it's probably very similar to mine. I used 3 coils of 600ft 3/4" HDPE SDR11 for my 3 ton unit, and 4 of them for my 4 ton unit
building new home and to level home pad moving dirt and building pond would it work to put loop field in soil of pond before it fills thus soil will be moist and have better tranfer
Yes
Is there an efficiency advantage/disadvantage to adding another 600 feet of pex while I'm at it? I'd like to err on the safe side and add extra while I have the trench open.
No disadvantage, but you start hitting the law of diminishing returns with added footage
Any Chance you would take a zoom call for a couple of questions. I'm quite literally building the same house you did, almost 6k sqft as well. Just would like to pick your brain a bit
My LEGO league team is presenting an Innovation project on Geothermal pump. Can they reach out to you anyway to seek some advice?
Can a larger diameter of pipe be used than 3/4" in the ground for an overall less length of pipe? I need about 5400' of pipe in the ground.
Yes
Do you know what the formula or the calculations are to determine the size? Currently 9 circuits @ 600' each based on my research.
@@AddictedCreationz I misread your first question. While you may be able to shorten the lines a little, I don't know the calculation. You want the liquid in the line to have as much contact with the edge of the pipe as possible, so there is maximized heat transfer. The larger the pipe, the further the distance of the liquid in the center of the pipe to the outer edge of the pipe. If I were you, I'd stick to the 600' circuits.
I have high ground water at about 10ft which is great for a heat transfer medium. I’m trying to find a liquid that doesn’t freeze but is non toxic just in case the pipe develops a leak into the ground water-any ideas?
You could look at food grade glycol.
I've seen multiple videos of HVAC companies putting 3 loops in the same wide trench and they can't be more than a foot or two apart. In your video you mention loops need to be 10 feet apart. Why are these companies putting 3 of them so close together? Thanks!
They are lazy and don't care about the end result. There is doing it right, and then doing it cheap.
@@Challenged1 your way made way more sense anyway! I thought that may be the case. What's bad is people just don't know to question it. Thanks for the reply.
Did you use double or triple glazed windows?
Double
😎👌🖖✌👍🤓
It would be great if you would add lots of photo's and slow down and breath!!!
I used to have more pics, but a hard drive crash wiped them out. Learned a valuable lesson on that one
@@Challenged1 I am joking with you, not at you. I am interested in running Geo thermals lines and designing things for our OFF-grid home, dont mind me, just interested in actually doing it too!!! Thank you Garrett!!!
@@2point..0 No offense taken. I seriously wish I had those photos!!!