Це відео не доступне.
Перепрошуємо.
Soils - Step-by-Step DIY Geothermal (Part 1)
Вставка
- Опубліковано 1 кві 2021
- Here, I am giving you a step-by-step guide to diy geothermal. In part 1 I am talking about the soils. If you saw my original diy geothermal video and was wondering exactly how to install the geothermal system, this series is for you. While not all aspects of ground source heat pumps are diy, some of it is. Get to know the soils you will be placing your ground loops within. The more information you can find out about your soils, the more accurate your loop lengths will be. DO NOT SCREW THIS UP!!! If you get this wrong, you can waste a whole lot of money!!!
DIY Geothermal - What You Need To Know - • DIY Geothermal - What ...
How Much My Geothermal System Cost - • How Much My DIY Geothe...
Cheap Geothermal - • My DIY Geothermal Syst...
► Passive Real Estate Investing: www.groundfloo...
International Ground Source Heat Pump Association - igshpa.org/#
Manual J - amzn.to/3axIfE4
Understanding Manual J - amzn.to/2LPkdtW
Manual S - amzn.to/3mH57n7
Manual D - amzn.to/2KocdQc
Closed-Loop Geothermal Systems Slinky Installation Guide - amzn.to/37BOBR8
3 Circuit Closed Loop Header - amzn.to/3mAfby5
4 Circuit Closed Loop Header - amzn.to/37DKjZq
5 Circuit Closed Loop Header - amzn.to/3pcPjdp
Trion Air Bear 20X25X5 Air Filters - amzn.to/34FmMFI
//Camera Gear Used:
My Camera - amzn.to/3p7Vdxh
My Lighting - amzn.to/38oBHH2
My Camera Remote - amzn.to/3k4pqtm
My Microphone - amzn.to/2JIiNAl
//TOOLS & SERVICES I USE:
○ Keyword research tool for UA-cam (TubeBuddy) - www.tubebuddy....
SEND ME STUFF:
PO Box 354
Rose Hill, KS 67133
DISCLAIMER: Links included in this description might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you!
I think it'll be cheaper to just do Overkill. I'm using solar so I could care less if I'm using an extra 50 or 100 Watts with a bigger pump. The surveys and time that it'll take to get this done would be ridiculous in my opinion. Drill the hole throw in the pipe have a nice day. If it's too much again I don't care, but if it's too little which is very unlikely then I'll just dig another trench and throw on an extra solar panel if necessary. But I've watched all of your videos and I really do like them. You do an excellent job, so thank you very much. I have subscribed to your channel and have learned a lot.
Ive been looking all over for that soil thermal conductivity chart, it's a game changer. Digging an extra few cm to get close to the groundwater for my clay soil gives almost 4x the thermal conductivity. Thank you!
This is just what I wanted ... I stopped my A/C project - an excavation beside our house on the Philippines because I wanted to know what is the best thermal conductive soil to backfill with.. My rock bottom temperature is 21 C or 70 F I will have a combination of a large horizontal non-overlapping coil only 1 foot deep under shaded cement and a dug well ( over a yard across) to hold a Wearhouse received coil of black water pipe( PE) both are only !/2 inch in diameter. Together there will be 300 meters ( 1000 feet ) . My soil is limestone rock most of which must be jackhammered to excavate. Thinking of making the dug well part another meter down to make it 2 and a half meters in total and adding one more 150 meter coil to increase my cooling capacity.
I will also be making available roof drainage water as well at outside tap water to keep the dug well part saturated with water. Your video has helped me to decide to fill my dug well section with a pea type sand gravel to mix with the water. There will be no pipe connections made under the cement slab all connections will be made on the surface side of the house. This will be strictly water to a fan cooled radiator by low volume pump cooling system no refrigerating system..
I'm so excited to see this series! I want to put in a geothermal system this summer, but can't get a specialist to call me back. Looks like I'll be doing it myself!
I hope it's helpful
I'm interested in doing this someday. Ideally I want a house that's nearly runs off grid. Love the clock in the background.
Thank you for the videos , we are trying to figure out how to do this on our 6000sqft new build
I was having PE flashbacks when you were discussing moisture content!!😅 Glad I finally passed...lol
7:21 I worked as a certified lab tech doing soil proctors for soil density testing. 24 hours?!?!?!!!! No, when it's dry, it's dry. Any one can see when a soil sample is dry and then touch it (after it's cool) and when it's dry, it's dry. our oven was just a toaster oven and we put the pan just under the heating element. Took about 15 minutes. Our sample size was small. Don't need a shovel full to determine moisture content. As long as your scale is accurate you can us about a cup of soil but I usually used about two cups of soil to make sure I got a good sample. Spread thin.
Doesn't the moisture content vary a lot from week to week based on the recent rainfall?
@@hickorydragon8114 In the field you are correct. In the lab an oven is used to drive off all the moisture from the soil sample. The idea that it takes a 300 degree oven 24 hours to drive off all the moisture from a 300 gram sample is just ridiculous. The sample is baked for about a half hour. With all the said, if there is a .001% moisture content it won't skew the proctor enough to worry about. Honestly, the proctor is designed as a lab test to give documentation for a process the can be done by judgement just as well. One of the job sites I worked at we couldn't get a proctor because there were too many +3 inch material so the entire site was done by judgement. That puts a whole lot of responsibility on one person that has no way to document that it was done properly. I do take solace that on this job site every company that had to do excavation (plumber, electrician, etc) complained that they had never worked their equipment so hard to get the job done. Yes, that was a long winded response but I felt like it. Bit of a brag with loads of facts along with it.
Good videos. Thanks.
Awesome content! I’m building a timber from guest house on a 9 acre parcel on a small lake in Wisconsin. Should be wet sand 6 feet down. Considering trenching towards the lake and possibly using lake loop or at least will be able to get major water saturation near the shoreline. Need to further research my local shoreline zoning but seems possible.
Hey! Love your channel.
Just trying to find PEX for my project, and it seems to be super expensive. When I googled HDPE pipe this came up...
Very good video
Thanks for the comment
ty
Omg thank you so much!
If I have dry gravel can’t I just put the loops below my leach field to make it constantly wet gravel?
Yes
I've been looking all over youtube at ground source heat pump videos for a while now Garrett. I have to say, yours is the most informative I've found. Do you have an opinion on manufacturers? I realize you don't put these things in all the time but how was your experience with the folks you went with? Are you happy with the equipment you bought?
I have two Bosch units and can't say anything but good things about it.
@@Challenged1 Excellent! I'll look into Bosch then. I have always appreciated the quality of their tools. Thanks.
I will be contacting an old timer contractor that installed a vertical system in my last house in town due to space. He already told me not to go that route in my rural new build because well drilling in my area has tripled over the last 12 years and recommended an air/air system. I'm building on a sloped lot with solid granite only a couple feet below the surface. To grade my lot will require up to 8 feet of fill in areas, making coil loops pretty easy to install, leading me to think ground source could be the way to go. How will close proximity to bed rock affect the performance of the loops and how close to the foundation can you run them? Any reason not to run a loop under the driveway? Will there be issues establishing even flow rates in the loops if they are not all the same elevation? I suppose valves on all the loops could allow optimizing performance by monitoring return temperatures of each loop and balancing the system.
You would definitely need valves and temperature ports on each line to balance the system. Granite has excellent thermal conductivity, so I wouldn't see a problem with it. Loops can be wherever you want as long as they aren't under the house. I would recommend at least 10' away from the foundation, so you don't start effecting the temperature of the ground immediately around your house which could suck heat out of your house.
I was wondering, does your system have temperature probes for the outlet and inlet of each loop?
No, just one for the the combined on each. However, you can use a laser thermometer to measure the outside temp of each line if you wanted.
Can I do geothermal tubes in a ground with high water table?
It will work great if you do.
thanks for series. in heatmode, could i at one moment have hp run furnance then later, switch valve and heat water.
Not that I know of
I live in the Ozarks and on the south side of the hills it is mostly dry clay combined with limestone rock for the first two feet. After that in most place you hit bed rock. Hard limestone. If I dig a horizontal loop in a ditch carved into rock would I maybe use gravel to fill it? Solid rock trenches in limestone... what soil would be best to replace the stone when backfilling a trench in solid limestone?
Clay if you can figure a way to keep it moist.
another great vid & sounds like an invaluable series, Garrett. here in Phx we're known for caliche, but i got lucky while planting my trees & found great soil about 4ft down. i'm not sure what to expect in NM (where we plan to buy/build), as they've got naturally growing pine & pinion trees but it's also visibly very rocky & dry on top. love the tip to layer clean fill below/above the coils ...think the moisture content & thermal conductivity would remain? or would it potentially dry/harden over time & perform worse? or maybe the goal of that is just to pack tightly around the lines to make the best of a less-than-ideal situation instead of rocky soil that'd have air gaps?
It all depends on the moisture content of the virgin soil at your loop depths. That will tell you what you need to know. If it's too dry, a supplemental watering system can be installed to periodically water the loop trenches. More details to come in another video.
@@Challenged1 ..."supplemental watering system" -brill, thx man!
We also have land in NM and I've heard stories of caliche, although I have no idea yet if we have it. We are putting our dreams to paper at this point. I'd love to hear any more of Krazie Ivan's experiences in NM, and, anything that Garrett can add to sinking geothermal in that high desert area, north of Albuquerque. Thank you!
@@vickimorales2144 ...geothermal just wasn't going to work out for us due to a few things, so instead, i'm taking a layered approach in-effort to get close to PassivHous.
it's mainly design & positioning of the ICF structure, then using rainwater collection + solar HW heating + Trombe walls + greenhouse to "store" energy in the water & pre-heat incoming ERV. closer i can get to equilibrium, the less i need to spend on PV panels, batteries, etc... but harsh days/nights will be handled by mini-split.
only on paper so far, but closer to starting.
Thanks for putting the video out, super informative and helps with understanding the basics. Question I have - if my soil is basically wet sand (groundwater running through the land at about 5-6 feet) should I still worry about the density of the soil?
Nope, you are good
Garrett, much of the area I live in, Dallas County, Texas, has a large sandstone formation anywhere from at the surface to a maximum of 14 feet of cover. It's hard to be sure in many areas without and soil sample before buying. I am fairly familiar with with this- I have been digging trenches in it since the '80s as a plumber. You soil lists don't really seem to have a line for this- vertical systems in this area that I have looked into are 100-125' deep, one loop per ton. I am aware I haven't given any moisture numbers- if you test for moisture soon after a rains storm, the numbers are high, as the water is running across the face of this "chalk", less so for the higher points on the chalk, and dry as dust for periods with low rainfall. My take at this point is that a horizontal system might not be practical- even with much longer tubing runs. I guess I'm hoping you can tell me there is a silver lining here. Any light you might offer would help. Also, thanks for the source listings for the manuals- I' ll try to catch up will them. FR
In your case, you may want to install a supplemental watering system that periodically keeps your trenches moist. Perforated pipe buried a couple feet above the loops that can be connected to a water source. If you have a septic system with a lateral field, you can bury your loops under it.
@@Challenged1 Thanks, GG!
@@Challenged1 Thanks! Another thought dawns on me- use the grey water from washer/tub line as feed for the perf line. FR
What would you reccommend under and backfilling with if a person found rocky sandy stuff? Like topsoil?
soil with the highest content of clay you can find.
Awesome thank you. Where im at now is entirely clay. Im buying land here in the near future and building as big of a shop as i can afford. Probably back a small travel trailer inside and live in that lol
Wont moisture content change a lot throughout the year?
Usually at depth, not much
I think you made this too technical..
I think it could be a lot easier than the way you are saying it..
Most people if they saw this video would just say screw it I'm going to put in a wood boiler...
I know a little bit about geothermal and it can be done fairly easy and cheap..
And that's what the public needs to know..
I understood what you were saying..
Thank you
I wouldn't recommend anyone do this on their own without a little bit of education. The education is what's going to make it fairly easy and cheap, and it will actually work.
I am having to unlike your videos. Not that I don’t like the videos. It is UA-cam, not you. I like your geothermal videos and now my feed is just a spamfest of geothermal 73 things I swish I had known, geothermal companies don’t want you to know this cooking life hack, and so on. I really do appreciate your videos, I am just having to not like or save or subscribe anymore. I didn’t know UA-cam spammed you so much just because you liked a video.
Did you ever install something in your garden on this subject?.... Only theories... and nothing practical... I did not see anything made with your hands but a lot of pictures from the internet...
Does moisture content of soil change to a meaningful degree throughout the season. I’m asking because if I do this in the spring vs. mid summer am I going to get meaningfully different moisture contents that could doom my system?
At the depths I'm suggesting, no. It's pretty darn consistent at depth.