I have needed a solution for a VERY old 2wd Rustler. Mine is so old the hubs don't accept the new bearings, and came with bushings from the factory. So I was already looking at replacing the hubs to get a reliable bearing set installed. This kit solves 2 of my problems at once!
This upgrade is SO needed! It feels like the Slash was engineered back in the day before brushless, then they dropped the brushless in. It just wants to eat itself on brushless/3S every time it goes out. I have replaced SO manny diffs, driveshafts, gearbox housings etc. Finally have settled on the Traxxas 9052X driveshafts which have held up. Would have gone with this kit had it been known to me at the time!
This isi a very useful upgrade for Slash owners. I think it will really help. One thing about this type of the drive shaft is the pin that holds it all together. If you break a rear hub and have to remove it you have to be very careful not to lose it if your changing it quickly at the track.
@@RoadsideRC I have seen build videos or articles and some people use a tiny bit of super glue, nail polish or something to hold them in place. I have lost those pins before.
That tekno rear hub. I really like. Looks thicker / beefier. Lots of camber adjustments so it will be nice for racing. Its nice that tekno offered 2 different size hexes. So more tuneability if you need it.
Been there done that. I use MIP X duty shafts. I only been running on 2s. And brushless. Traxxas has the plastic extreme heavy duty shafts from the rustler 4x4 and hoss. Direct fit on the 2wd. Idk how good they are. For driveshafts, I always go steel. Tekno shafts are nice too. Note: Any part from traxxas is weak, terrible or not so good design. Its a traxxas thing. (Traxxas, not the fastest name in radio control) I use mostly RPM parts for more durable and flexible plastic. I use Atomik RC for any aluminum parts. Atomik rc parts are better quality, more tuneability, and its half the price of the traxxas aluminum parts (when I last checked, traxxas 2wd aluminum rear hubs were 35 USD. Atomik RCs aluminum rear hubs were 14 USD.) Also, with me getting into racing more and more. Im trying to get my slash 2wd and rustler 2wd ready and dialed in for the carpet track. Its not going so well. Car has way to much traction. With the slash, the body catches lots of air which is no bueno. Ill just stick with my AE B74.1 and Losi mini b for racing. I might turn my slash into a drag car for my local carpet drag strip at my track. 66 feet. Not really full size 1/10 strip, its just for fun :)
the X duty shafts are really nice but they wont fit my 2wd slash because they hit the turnbuckles at full ride height. i would either have to significantly lower the rear end or change the shock tower roll center position to make it work, so now i have $60 paperweights lol. i have the MIP cvd kit which is like the teknos but they sometimes pop out when i take a crash because the dogbones are barely in the drive cups at full ride height, so im looking to try the teknos in hopes they solve my problem. i have the hcg slash btw
Another great video Roadside. Say I have come across videos where people are stating that this kit will not allow the rear suspension to compress fully and use all the travel. Have you encountered this? Thanks
Will these fit a 2wd VXL rustler? I would assume they do but a review on amazon said they didnt fit the rustler. Hoping he was just dumb because these are what i want.
I have a slash chassis im "going" to be building to be a rwd drift car. Any tips? Its bare bones as of now. No electronics no shocks no drivetrain and nothing from the casters out. Im upgrading a bandit vxl as of now and ill be using the transmission from that in the slash.
Honestly - my tip is to just get a proper RWD drift chassis. You can get the Sakura D5 for just over $100...so not really worth attempting to mod a Slash to attempt to be a drift car. IF you really want to go that way - study the front suspension geometry of drift cars closely. You will need to modify the front end of that Slash a lot to try and mimick the proper steering geometry.
Any reason to pick this over the traxxas versions (TRX1951R/TRX9052X)? Was indeed the first thing that broke after brushless upgrade on our 2wd stampede.
Any recommendations on a replacement bellcrank my original plastic ones are so wore out and sloppy I don't bash mine to hard just zipping around in grass and gravel
This one should do GREAT: www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=el&merchant_id=4b85b2b7-558e-4304-89fc-54958c8f47f0&website_id=caf4cba5-8e5f-43be-93b7-934f1a36d50d&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amainhobbies.com%2Fhot-racing-traxxas-slash-aluminum-steering-bellcranks-draglink-set-black-hrate48g01%2Fp649847
@@RoadsideRC the same one my arms where a little but more flexible then stuck so i think thats why it broke i landed on the side and it pushed itself into the cup braking the peace that goes into the wheel where the pin is
Oh my goodness I can’t wait to put this on the slash. I’ve had to squeeze them back together countless times.
Yes! A common thing. Good luck with the upgrade!
I have needed a solution for a VERY old 2wd Rustler. Mine is so old the hubs don't accept the new bearings, and came with bushings from the factory. So I was already looking at replacing the hubs to get a reliable bearing set installed. This kit solves 2 of my problems at once!
Nice! Glad you found the solution! It should work really well for you.
Troy my boy got doing what we need 🙏
Glad it was helpful!
Great upgrade recommendation. I wish I would have done these instead of the MIP race shafts
These really do look high quality.
This upgrade is SO needed! It feels like the Slash was engineered back in the day before brushless, then they dropped the brushless in. It just wants to eat itself on brushless/3S every time it goes out. I have replaced SO manny diffs, driveshafts, gearbox housings etc. Finally have settled on the Traxxas 9052X driveshafts which have held up. Would have gone with this kit had it been known to me at the time!
Agree 100% The overall design is just not durable enough and out-dated at this point.
you wonder why they never had metal drive shafts to start with certainly a good upgrade
*big like👍Au👀its a full watch💯*
I agree 100%!
Fantastic timing finding this vid, i just broke my Traxxas cv shafts, will be getting these!!! Thank you for sharing!
Glad I could help!!
This isi a very useful upgrade for Slash owners. I think it will really help. One thing about this type of the drive shaft is the pin that holds it all together. If you break a rear hub and have to remove it you have to be very careful not to lose it if your changing it quickly at the track.
Great point!
@@RoadsideRC I have seen build videos or articles and some people use a tiny bit of super glue, nail polish or something to hold them in place. I have lost those pins before.
Definitely a weak point on the brushless models,didn't know that tekno had the kit,Definitely be used next go around, great how to video
That tekno rear hub. I really like. Looks thicker / beefier. Lots of camber adjustments so it will be nice for racing. Its nice that tekno offered 2 different size hexes. So more tuneability if you need it.
Agree! Really nice kit.
Been there done that. I use MIP X duty shafts. I only been running on 2s. And brushless. Traxxas has the plastic extreme heavy duty shafts from the rustler 4x4 and hoss. Direct fit on the 2wd. Idk how good they are. For driveshafts, I always go steel. Tekno shafts are nice too. Note: Any part from traxxas is weak, terrible or not so good design. Its a traxxas thing. (Traxxas, not the fastest name in radio control) I use mostly RPM parts for more durable and flexible plastic. I use Atomik RC for any aluminum parts. Atomik rc parts are better quality, more tuneability, and its half the price of the traxxas aluminum parts (when I last checked, traxxas 2wd aluminum rear hubs were 35 USD. Atomik RCs aluminum rear hubs were 14 USD.) Also, with me getting into racing more and more. Im trying to get my slash 2wd and rustler 2wd ready and dialed in for the carpet track. Its not going so well. Car has way to much traction. With the slash, the body catches lots of air which is no bueno. Ill just stick with my AE B74.1 and Losi mini b for racing. I might turn my slash into a drag car for my local carpet drag strip at my track. 66 feet. Not really full size 1/10 strip, its just for fun :)
Sounds like you have a lot of work ahead of you!
I also have used MIP a few time with good success, but this Tekno kit is really nice.
the X duty shafts are really nice but they wont fit my 2wd slash because they hit the turnbuckles at full ride height. i would either have to significantly lower the rear end or change the shock tower roll center position to make it work, so now i have $60 paperweights lol. i have the MIP cvd kit which is like the teknos but they sometimes pop out when i take a crash because the dogbones are barely in the drive cups at full ride height, so im looking to try the teknos in hopes they solve my problem. i have the hcg slash btw
another great how to video Troy!!
Thanks!
i got burshels couple years ago with 2s survived no problem. drove 10minutes with 3s and boom
(rustler)
Yes - that happens!
thanks for the video. I might pick that kit up.
Hope you enjoy it!
Perfect timing my slash just broke the tabs on the shaft
Yeah - it happens.
Good luck with the fix!
Another great video Roadside. Say I have come across videos where people are stating that this kit will not allow the rear suspension to compress fully and use all the travel. Have you encountered this? Thanks
Interesting! I had no such issues.
Will these fit a 2wd VXL rustler? I would assume they do but a review on amazon said they didnt fit the rustler. Hoping he was just dumb because these are what i want.
I would need to check. Not 100% sure.
If you confirm the Rustler and Slash have the same rear control arm (width), then I expect they will work.
Best parts you can put on a Traxxas.
Yes!
I have a slash chassis im "going" to be building to be a rwd drift car. Any tips? Its bare bones as of now. No electronics no shocks no drivetrain and nothing from the casters out. Im upgrading a bandit vxl as of now and ill be using the transmission from that in the slash.
Honestly - my tip is to just get a proper RWD drift chassis. You can get the Sakura D5 for just over $100...so not really worth attempting to mod a Slash to attempt to be a drift car.
IF you really want to go that way - study the front suspension geometry of drift cars closely. You will need to modify the front end of that Slash a lot to try and mimick the proper steering geometry.
@@RoadsideRC I've been looking for a few months now. The smaller ones caught my eye. Maybe I'll do a street bash or something with the slash.
Any reason to pick this over the traxxas versions (TRX1951R/TRX9052X)? Was indeed the first thing that broke after brushless upgrade on our 2wd stampede.
Yes - the Traxxas upgrade parts are known to he weak.
Any recommendations on a replacement bellcrank my original plastic ones are so wore out and sloppy
I don't bash mine to hard just zipping around in grass and gravel
slash 4x4 one with bearings instead of bushings
This one should do GREAT: www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=el&merchant_id=4b85b2b7-558e-4304-89fc-54958c8f47f0&website_id=caf4cba5-8e5f-43be-93b7-934f1a36d50d&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amainhobbies.com%2Fhot-racing-traxxas-slash-aluminum-steering-bellcranks-draglink-set-black-hrate48g01%2Fp649847
Hey roadside, what tires you got on for the 2wd slash in this video? Thanks
They were on it when I bought it. Just some cheapo Amazon tires.
had one on my stampede it broke won't last the average person 3-4 months lasted me 2 weeks would be good for racing not bashing
Interesting! I habe had good luck with them.
Which driveshaft do you use?
@@RoadsideRC the same one my arms where a little but more flexible then stuck so i think thats why it broke i landed on the side and it pushed itself into the cup braking the peace that goes into the wheel where the pin is
@@RoadsideRC 7:55
ua-cam.com/video/ZptaoiwA7wE/v-deo.html
i made a video and it broke while driving
Mine don't look broken but they're super wobbly cant tell what's wrong but my back wheels are not rotating properly? Any clue?
Need new bearings?
What weight diff fluid do you recommend for the 2wd Slash VXL for general bashing?
Honestly - the rear diff on this truck has never been opened. It still has whatever Traxxas put in there.
just had to replace the ones on my neighbors, for this exact reason
Hope this was helpful!
Es traxxas 🤮que esperabas 🤮yo no buelvo a comprar esa marca en la vida🤮🤮🤮
Tienes razón. Este es un problema muy común.