Ring Doorbell Fix? Or Butchering? - You Decide!
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
- I bought a faulty ring doorbell for £20 from an eBay seller.
Come with me, as I attempt to repair it or butcher it depending on what you think at the end.
It's not without some interesting moments!
This video is for entertainment purposes only.
Please don't attempt any of what you see, as I MAY do (well I actually do), things that aren't safe :) or things that may potentially burn you, or your house down!
Enjoy!
That was an interesting fix. The sparks added some extra excitement to the video!
Yeah. It caught me by surprise at least twice! Glad you enjoyed it!
That use of solder wick was genius
Cheers!
"Ring Doorbell Fix? Or Butchering? - You Decide!"...
You fixed it. Now, you should go on and butcher it. In my opinion, there's no place in society for those devices.
😂😂😂Agree, I'm definitely not a fan of them 👍
There is no need for nosey neighbours to record everyone as they walk past on the public footpath, but I'm ok with these things being used by people who are vulnerable to see who is at their door.
Waaay to much work for just a doorbell. I think I would rather put in a security system and be done. Doesn't work very well IMO. Thanks for posting this Mick. "loved the sparks" too
😂😂😂Cheers Neil 👍
That latching under volt protection 'feature' is top shelf twattery. I enjoy your videos mate. Getting into electronic repair meself so i'm regularly trawling youtube for tips and wisdom. Your channel is one of me bookmarks. GG mate.
Thanks 🙂👍
It even came pre tinned :D
To avoid damaging the cells I normally keep to a low charge of 50-100ma until the cell reaches its "minimum" voltage often 2.5V. In my experience they either rise rather quickly to that level or are dead.
Thanks for the advice 👍
I was thinking the original cells were LiFePO4 cells, because they have lower voltage. After checking a bit: no. LiFePO4 has 3.2V nominal and 3.65 V max charge. The label on the pack is consistent with normal Li-ion. Nice fix!
Thanks 👍
I used to love Automation and Ring when they first came around. Then when other players came into the market they sold out to government and privacy selling. I too love tech. But I now use all local hosting devices with my own server for external access. I won't even get started on the monthly subscriptions and end of life garbage.
Sounds a very wise choice. I love things like that too, but I don't like closed systems / subscriptions and end of life garbage exactly as you say 🙂👍
You should have tried to plug the charger in, very good chance that would have reset the output, if that fails you could also try applying voltage to the output connections momentarily, that can sometimes reset battery protections (often works on laptop batteries when there is no output after a re-cell job)
I did mate, I even looked for the datasheet to see if there was a way to reset it. One of the datasheets I found said their device was a one shot, so I guess once triggered that's it unfortunately 🙁
@@BuyitFixit
So they go to the trouble of installing an over-discharge protection chip to save the cells, then lock it out so you can never use the cells again anyway.
This must've been an Apple idea...
@@v8snail Remember, it is not a fault. It's a feature.
On the next revision they will strap a light detector to the one shot die battery, to increase sales, after seeing this 😂
@@v8snail Ring is an Amazon company mate.
Magnificent bodge. Classic. Brilliant. Capped only be the decision not to use it.
Thanks, Yes It's still sat in a box somewhere 😂😂
The charging circuit for Ring doorbells have a lot of problems. One of them is that they will NOT charge the battery if it is below freezing outside. Even if they are hard wired to a transformer. In colder climates Ring support says to keep replacing the battery with one that is charged inside your house.
Yes that's down to lithium batteries not charging in cold temperatures and there's a temperature sensor in the battery to monitor for cold and overheating. There was recently a load of Tesla cars that had issues due to cold too 🙂
Great fix and a remarkably interesting and educational video. Great that you found the fault. However, I would not want to use anything in my home that has had a safety feature disabled. Even though I realise it was 'just' the undervoltage protection. I would rather just buy a replacement. Of course, I know that this video was for educational purposes only and have learnt something too. I am in no way disrespecting you or your channel
Thanks Jem, yes it's not great and I don't use it. If I were I'd be buying a replacement, but sometimes it's about showing what went wrong. I've even brought some 'dead' cells back to life in quite a few Milwaukee battery packs and they are still fine almost a year later. Thanks for commenting and hopefully you'll check out my other work as I've done quite a few interesting videos such as the RGB laser, ultrasound scanner and solar inverter repair and subsequent video on hacking the service password 👍
Really should have tried charging it after replacing the cells, it's extremely common to lock out the output until it is charged for a bit so that way it isn't completely discharged before the first use. That way they can install the battery into a device without it turning on while being shipped.
Hmm good point. I did find a datasheet for a similar chip which suggested that once triggered it was a latching output, and didn't say it was resetable. Also I did charge the original cells which seemed to charge to 3.6v which I assumed was too low as 18650s have a max of 4.2v however after making the video, I noticed the pack had 3.6v on the label. So was it set to 3.6v max charge? And just the undervoltage protection had blown? Guess I'll never know.
Fun video to watch. I would suggest you get a spot welder for welding cells. Much easier and a lot more safer
Thanks Eddie 👍I got one a few months back. I used it on the 1950s Radiation Survey Meter video I recently did.
It helps to soak these battery containers in Iso for a bit to ease glue. then warm it up a little. I have repaired many a laptop battery
Thanks for the tip 👍
Looking thru the old back catalogue and had laugh because I make a lot of battery packs up and I break all the rules to and I also get sparks and bits blown out of tools !!! so it aint just me. Regarding the small protection chip nowadays the DW01 is the go to device and that will reset if you clear the fault and put it back on charge and it sees all is well, job's a good one.....cheers.
Thanks AndyMouse, yes this was before I had done much with lithium, I now understand things like the DW01 which I've now came across in a few power banks and on the Stihl headset. Agree it would fit in this and make it work properly again, not that I'd ever use one of these devices personally 😂😂😂👍
Blu Tack. Everybody needs a big lump of blu tack on their bench. It's great for stuff like holding those batteries at the correct distance apart. I use it all the time instead of helping hands.
Good idea! I'll have to see if I can find some. I know we have some... somewhere...
HI some battery packs after the batteries have been changed/charged can be reset by applying a voltage momentarily to the output terminals to trigger a rest.
Interesting, I'll keep that in mind.
And laptop batteries also have this kind of "locked" system in the BMS, there's an equipment called NLB1 to unlock the chip and it's stupid expensive. On top of it, you have to have the subscription to use the device, wow.
Thanks 👍yes DJI, Dyson, Dell all have similar. Subscription 😯You'll own nothing but be happy 🤔
Hi mike how about getting off your bum and answering the door no tech needed ha ha. Stay safe. NZ
😂😂😂I wouldn't use one of these if you paid me. Although I do have a doorbell with two receivers that go "ding dong" as it's quite a large house, so you can't always hear people knocking 👍
I gess if you remove the nicel plate of newer battery and soldering carefully not need to modifiy the battery cover and if fit perfectly to device ❤
I've since bought one of those spot welders. I would still replace the protection IC to repair it properly.
That was a sparky repair mate.😂😂
😂😂Yes it did make me jump🤣🤣
My ring doorbell 2 died ironically a few weeks after cancelling their price hiked storage subscription renewal, still had over 6 months left to run on it, coincidence or bricked by Ring, you decide... Battery is up at fully charged but all I get is the ring of LED's flashing blue, which it seems to give up after a while, setup button does nothing. To get the blue lights flashing again, remove and re-insert the battery doesn't do anything but briefly connecting a USB charger to the battery to wake it up then pop it back into the doorbell seems to get it flashing again. Is it the doorbell or the battery? who knows!
Yes rather a coincidence. If you have a test meter available you should be able to test if you are getting 3.7V on the output of the battery.
I seem to remember that there is a way to reset that latch but can not remember how , something to do with putting a revers charge into the device via the charging pins
Thanks for that. I couldn't find the exact data sheet for that exact chip. I did find another data sheet for one with the same pin out but it didn't mention anything about resetting. It just said it was a latching output.
@@BuyitFixit ua-cam.com/video/r_sJd6WaSi0/v-deo.html
This might be what i have seen before . It is like a jump start for the dead battery
Yes, I believe some BMS behave like this. Have to jump them with voltage or reverse voltage to turn them back on
Shouldn't you had put the insulating material you took off on the + side on the tops of both cells ? I believe they are there to prevent shorting to the outside casing material ? Hence the sparking when you were cutting the tabs on the top :) Great Video really enjoy your troubleshooting @@
Thanks John 👍I honestly can't remember, it was a while back when I did this one and I've done a lot more since! It's hard to keep track 😂😂
Great fix, I really enjoy all your videos
Thanks. Really appreciate it! It was a bit more of a "butchering" as I wouldn't use it or sell it in that condition, but at least it works, and it would require a new battery to be fully operational.
@@BuyitFixit sometimes it's all about the journey, but yeah it might need a new battery
I've another video a bit like that coming up soon! A Milwaukee M12 Bluetooth Radio, I had been working on it on and off for a while as I was having trouble finding the fault... eventually I found the problem!
@@BuyitFixit looking forward to it
Nice hack. Love your videos
Thanks 👍 I've done another few hacks like this, on the FLIR thermal camera, and the RGB laser if you haven't seen those ones 😉
Yes sir I saw. I have watched many of your vids. Cheers!@@BuyitFixit
BQ charging IC we've got as well in the devices like Nintendo Switch ;) just by the way.
Thanks for that. I've not looked at a switch yet. I did notice Milwaukee M18 batteries have BQ chips too.
@@BuyitFixit I didn't know about those M18, so, thank you as well :).
Woooh for the skills!
Any chance in using the parts for other unique projects?
Thanks👍
is it possible to get hold of that low voltage protection chip? I couldn't read the number on it.
I couldn't find the part even with the number on it. There was quite a few chips with the same pin out and function.
Min.20:33 try t woke up with charger first...
Unfortunately that didn't work. The protection chip on this seems to be a one shot affair.
bat said 3.65v why change it with 4.2
Been a while but I think it was after being fully charged it rapidly dropped to 3.65. It should have remained around 4.2 as a fully charged cell.
While I applaud your effort to get the Ring working, I'd still bin the Ring due to the fact it's hobbled by subscriptions and the third party video sharing requirement. It's just not worth it, there are better doorbell cams that don't require subscriptions out there.
Totally agree. I wouldn't use it myself. It's still sat in a box somewhere 😂😂😂
These you must NOT use. Ring gives access to your videos to 3rd parties without even informing you. For instance in the us they have given access to the police.
Agree. I've heard about that happening. It's one of the reasons why I'm not a fan of these devices.
@@BuyitFixit for me personally it’s not a big issue if the police come and want access to my cameras. I would let them. The issue is that if I buy a product I want to decide who get access or not, including the supplier. PoE cameras where I decide who has network access to is what I prefer. :) Interlogix truvision is what I install at work for business users. That’s an US company that’s reputable. Never use HiKvision even tho they have similar specs but lower price. That’s China copy of the truvision cameras and guess who has backdoor access to those.
I've got a hikvision system here. I've repaired an IP camera on here too. I should try reverse engineer the firmware at some point to see if it does contain any questionable code.
@@BuyitFixit some models of the HIKvision cameras is such a ripoff that it would work to flash the firmware of its origin. Crazy the Chinese can get away with stuff like that. Makes me angry. In Norway HiKvision is banned for governmental use because they have found stuff in the firmware so you don’t have to look to know. :-P
With over riding so that the mosfet is in effect hard switched on all the time, have you not just over ridden the other safety features such as short circuit and over heat protect? as now nothing can turn the mosfet off as its always clamped in the on state using the resistor jumper lead? (not that those other states are likely to probably happen)
There are two mosfets in series. One is for over charge protection and the other is for under voltage protection. The one is disabled is only for under voltage.
@@BuyitFixit Ah right, thanks...
it’s not a video doorbell 2 probably a plus or a 3 with video doorbells 2 you can’t remove the battery or the face plate
Just checked the label on the back that has the S/N, MAC ID, SKU etc and it has "Model Name: Video Doorbell 2"
Why not just diss the over discharge pin on the protection IC and connecting the MOSFET inputs together?
I guess that would have worked too.
Lol you did it quickly enough. Its fine if its quick.
Yeah, it's not like it was shorted for a long time, I hope the video wasn't too boring, I wasn't sure if I should have edited more bits out. Comments welcome :)
@@BuyitFixit it was good to see it all for me. Im impressed with the final fix as I didn't know about that mosfet doing that. Yes here in the states police dont even need a warrant to get the doorbell information and pics so i avoid those devices.
Yeah that's what I had heard too.
I think its quite common for devices with batteries like this to permanently disable them. I saw a similar video a while back, possible linus tech tips "battery repair blocking" video, where they had similar with some camera or lighting batteries. Also I know DJI drones have protection like this too.
@@BuyitFixit yeah made sense after I thought about it a bit. Its a safety feature because you cant trust state after a failure like that so its better safe than sorry
The best an cheapest agent for Google etc..... 24h/7d
Nice repair👍👍
Thanks 👍
I will probably never buy a wifi, IoT doorbell / camera.
Yep, I'd prefer one that I could manage locally without relying or paying a company and them having access to it.
Lol did the shock throw the tool?
It was the shock of the sparks, not actually an electric shock :)
@@BuyitFixit hah that makes sense. The surprise
Video on restartig a dell battery v=xyeHKKe2z0Q
Bit of a butcher job but fun to watch...
Well at least the title was accurate 😂😂👍
@@BuyitFixitI've noticed your more recent videos are far better analyzed and more competently repaired. i.e. far less butchered... :)
I love to tinker with things as you do and learn as I go.
Love your videos, really glad to see each new one.
Thanks, the next video is a bit of an usual one. It took a lot of time and working out so hopefully you'll enjoy it 🙂