Bolting Ethics - When and where should we bolt
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- How do highlining bolts affect other people? We discuss the things we should consider before bolting.
This is the first chapter of the Bolting Bible www.hownot2.co...
Anthony Chandler translated subtitles to Portuguese!
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This is a great video. I really like that you encourage natural anchors. Bolts are sometimes the only way to rig but I hope people take your advice and not install them irresponsibly. It's good for our safety as well as continued access.
We hope to teach a lot more all natural techniques. Very rarely are bolts required.
5:00 "I'm really excited about having all that gear" as he stands in his gear room!
Clearly you can tell what gets me excited :)
There are pretty simple ethics in Scotland - do not bolt any place, under any circumstances, that does not already have bolts. Most climbers would be incredibly angry with anyone bolting. If there is a random bolt, they might cut it out. The default is no bolts, trad gear only. There are a few crags bolted for sport, but very very few, and no new areas are being bolted.
Rigging all natural is pretty easy and we hope more people do it everywhere.
That ended abruptly :) I thought my device glitched on me or I accidently hit a button.
I would like to give you an advice from a matematician perspective...
the 7th commandament of the bible is technically wrong as perpendicularity is a propriety of lines, not of surfaces.
So you need to drill the hole orthogonal to the face of the rock :p
Apart from that, great job, really
Literally just googled it and fell asleep reading the difference between the two. But I did learn something haha
I can't like this comment enough!!! Deserved more thumbs up!!!
Love a good pedant. Another misuse of mathematical terms that bug me, saying "and" in a number when you aren't denoting a decimal point. It's not "two thousand and seven" it's just "two thousand seven". :D
Every time I’m climbing and I find highline bolts, I remove the glue because it’s a polymer that shouldn’t be there. I have a small toolkit of a thin chisel, hammer, small crowbar and needle nose pliers. What happened to Leave No Trace guys?
i have a bolting ethics story. at a local wall in tahoe that was slowly being bolted up. some guy started a new route up the wall. he would top rope it off a tree but never bolted the route. after a while the guy stopped showing up. so some friends decided to finish the route and bolt the top anchors and put up a sport route that every one loved. a few months later the dude that 1st started the route came back and was ready to finish "his route" and bolt it. when he saw it was already done. he came back with tools cut the bold and chipped the holds and left a sign saying to never bolt some one else project.
Sounds like he's a bit of a self absorbed jerk. It's not his wall.
Especially if he stopped showing up he shouldn't be mad.
if he already tried it on top rope, and knows the route goes, he should already have bolted it and left a Red Tag or a sling in the first bolt, to signify that this is a project. and not keep to keep the project longer than a year if he isnt able to send it.
In saxony we have a really weird projecting ethic, if you place the first bolt you have 3 years to ascend the route ground up, if those three years pass its fair game for everyone.. tricky part is only ground up acsends are allowed so no toproping or abseiling the climb before hand. Also all bolts need to be placed atleast 3m appart, prefered distance is 5m and if there is a possible natural protection like a knoted sling or a ufo then no bolt should be placed.
here in Germany they bolt more or less everything in alot of areas, even when the lines are splitter Cracks, I might start leaving a green point at the bottom of climbs that I did trad to Show they have been freed clean.
Du kommst offensichtlich nicht aus sachsen 😂 i freu mich über jeden ring den ich finde 😜
Awsome project ! I live everything that is open source and help the community
Keep your great work 👍
The end was abrupt but the rest of the video was great
I mean it ended at a weird time
I've bolted in caves where no natural anchors existed
or I have no trust in a found cave anchor. I usually
do it outside caves. I began the practice single-jacking
my star-drill using a 2 pound sledge hammer. Using
steel anchors made from angle iron before purchase
of same became retail available in the 1970's.
I'd enjoy watching my reader share double-jacking
with another Bolting Bible believer. To avoid power
drill restriction or simply a hands-on history lesson.
If your using expansion bolts, although bulky, ALWAYS bring your torque wrench to the crag. You can get torque wrenches that only weigh 100-200 g. So bringing that up multiple pitches isn't going to be a hassle. Remember it is someones life/ your own.
If you don't want to ruin your house also you can always go to a local quarry, or the side of the road/blasted rock cut and find a piece of rock and practice on that.
We did some break tests on mechanical bolts and used a torque wrench because we are trying to be "sciencey" about it and i can't believe how tight 30torque lbs was. We are going to test undertorqued bolts as well. We did a 3/8" x 2.25" power bolt in granite and did not wrench it at all, 0 torque lbs, and it broke in shear at 22kn where the others broke at 36 and 37kn. Its important to wrench it, and wrench it correctly but every bolt we have tested is stronger than the gear we are attaching to it.
@@HowNOT2 Thanks for this info!
Do slack liners ever drill holes at angles till the hole meets to make something like a natural V anchor sort of like the "one shot" ice anchor system from black diamond? Then tourist wouldn't see bolts but might stick stuff in the holes lol anywho if it could work it could change the game abit I guess? Sorry if you cover that I have never seen it done.
V threading rock is very very rare. I don't know why but these are two things that would stop me from doing it. Debris like you said, could get in hole if in the top of a cliff and not directly into the side of a cliff... and that would be annoying and the 2nd one is the point of the V could be sharp on a rock where as a v thread on ice doesn't pose that threat. The sharpness on ice gets eliminated pretty quickly but could cut a rope if in hard rock.
@@HowNOT2 yeah that's a great point, im just shooting the shit now but maybe a process can be made after the holes are drilled an abrasive line can be run threw it to "polish" a few times. Then instead of rope use steel cable, a little much to avoid bolts i know, but it would be interesting to see if it made a way stronger anchor (safety first) then a bolt. Also id imagine that it would last forever and ever. lol maybe plugs can be installed to look like rock. lol Pull the plug run your cable and rig to that. I guess the biggest cons would be twice the holes and a harder process to make right. Thanks for the conversation! p.s im a little biased I dont like seeing bolts until I need one lol
@@BetaClimbers i think steel cable weakens even more tight bends. It would require a lot of grinding to make the point at the bottom rounded. Removable bolts are super bomber and only require 1 hole. 1 bolt is a 5:1 safety ratio... 2 is redundant... 3 is overkill... and we often have 4 haha
@@HowNOT2 wow that is really interesting. Yea when you put it like that its just a bit to overkill to avoid bolting. For sure it would definitely need alot of grinding till the v turned into a U really. I guess a new machine would need to be invented like a chain saw but the chain went threw the holes, if that makes sense, and the chain was some kind of diamond cutting rope. Just having fun a thought experiments now lol
Just curious, have you ever used something like a large vehicle as part of an anchor? I've considered using my 6,000 lb van as a climbing top rope anchor, but haven't heard of anyone needing to do it.
he did ua-cam.com/video/h-jstozas-0/v-deo.html
Ok, so it's been three years. I'll let you know that is definitely bomber.
@@bobbypatton4903 Haha good to know. Still haven't found anywhere to actually do this yet.
What did the nut say to the bolt ?? Not with out the washer you don't.. I like your videos 👍👍
Sketchy andy!!!!!!!!
Love the work
The cover so clever
3:30 - "Butt plug leashes", oookay then
Amigo, cómo hago para fijar bolds en roca arenisca ya que al colocar tres por seguridad para realizar una reunión por la consistencia de la roca, dos no aguantan la tensión y se rompe como un pedazo de pastel ??
Hahahaha the butt plug leashes ad, at 3:31 hahahahaha
What is that black piece under the rappelling rings?
A long running joke... the mascot of the channel :) ua-cam.com/video/ucSDLJgLryM/v-deo.html
Its his but plug leash
HowNOTtoHIGHLINE that video appears to have been deleted - too off color for high stakes UA-cam?
what does it mean to "spray bolts"? and why is it bad? i have heard this term but cant google it to find out what it means.
It means to place too many.
Nice and tight bro
I may not be Rocket science, but it's Rock science
Ja ja ja muy grandes
Well, I am a metalworker, installing bolts is kinda a big part of my profession. So I can confidently say that I will install the bolts correctly. It ain't witchery, but there are some things to look out for. Mosz importantly: clean your f*ing holes!
There’s a butt toy hanging on the lower left
3 min and change advertisment
B est
I nstructions
B efore
L eaving
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Not sure how i feel about the book title "Bible" and the 10 Commandments, feels too cheesy and that is (I am sure) enough to put some people off . Its a great thought though and you do well in sharing your research.
I don`t do slackline stuff but more Climbing\Ziplines and rope-swing activities. However i still find this channel interesting to look at mostly because of your interest in rigging an sharing the way you rig each project.
Thanks for your input. It is definitely different and "edgy" (get it?)... see I can't help but be cheesy. :) I liked the theme "Bible because it is a subtle way for me to tease those who treat their way of bolting as doctrine. In our sport, some people act like they are holier than thou in their techniques but I can poke holes in everyone's past installs including my own. Nothing is perfect but things get to a point where they are super good enough. As far as teaching style goes, I like to make things 50% entertaining and 50% educational. It is hard to make bolting fun, but I tried! Glad you enjoy the content. More bolting bible videos to come out soon.
Ken nicals 🤣
I loved the documentary about the drug addicts climbing El cap (I think) and some hardcore guys climbed up and cut all their bolts😂
I liked your content man, why did you have to go and make a mockery of my religion with that thumbnail?
I swear on the life of my kids I'm not trying to be offensive, I thought you were gay. It's not a bad thing to be gay and I don't know why you would be offended I just didn't know you were married to a woman. Congratulations on making a marriage work I'm currently married also and it's a very difficult thing
Pushing the religion thing a bit hard dude. It gets old quick.
It just a theme. Relax. Some people act about bolting like people use to in the religion i use to follow and the parallels are hilarious. Everyone is so dogmatic about non-evidence based opinions. We are doing BoltBusters to break bolts to find out if anything in the BoltingBible is even true. We follow science, its rad.
Take a constructive crit for what it is, not downplay it because it suits you're gimmick.
You obviously care about what you do but obviously care nothing about how you come across. The whole thou shalt not bollocks got more tired in 2 minutes than my eyes looking at your tshirt.
@@slinkytreekreepermay want to get ur eyes checked then
Congratulations on being married truthfully I thought you were gay