Big wall climbing aid hooks TESTED
Вставка
- Опубліковано 20 жов 2024
- Arrrrr! We tested hooks. Aid climbing hooks. I guess we can’t take granite for granite. Some hooks broke, some wires broke, and the rock kept breaking.
Email passthepitonspete@hotmail.com if you want the book “Hooking Up”.
Dynamometer is LineScale2 www.hownot2.co...
👉 Learn and SHOP at www.hownot2.co...
👉 Best EMAILS on Earth: www.hownot2.co...
👉 SUPPORT US and get gear discounts hownot2.com/su...
👉 10% off ROCKY TALKIE by clicking www.hownot2.co...
Check out our new store! hownot2.store/
this is dude is everything that is right with the climbing/slackline/highline community..sharing information, promoting adventure, and advocating safety to those who may or may not know what theyre doing..im new to climbing, i dont know any climbers and im learning as i go, which is kind of scary considering that i plan on climbing up rocks and could very quickly get hurt or die..but this channel has given me alot of insight on equipment and things to consider when climbing or highlining..god bless this dude and his fam and i hope he is able to continue to put out great content and has great success with his channel..dude literally does this for the love of it and really doesnt need to share any of this, so big ups to him for that...
Thanks. Its nice to see how things fail so you can make critical decisions in critical moments.
Ryan's channel is absolutely fantastic. His, and two others are basically all I watch. And I'm comparing it to Netflix, HBO, Etc.
@@matthewkelly99 FOR REAL BRO!! my girl gets mad cause instead of watching netflix or hulu with her ill be watching this channel on my phone instead loooool
hello future self, nice to meet you
Test the tricams!!! 😬 so we can trust those things. The climbing comunity is thankful for your work!
Definitely waiting for your tricams test. Tricam fan, but it's always in the back of my mind: they haven't been break tested yet lol
why wouldn't' you trust tricams? if they're rated they're rated.
@@ma_ple because they're weird and scary
On horizontal cracks, I'll take a tricam over a regular cam just about any day.
@@TheArmyKnifeNut honestly I don't think I've met anyone that uses tricams on vertical cracks
As someone who *has* taped a hook to a rock as "lead protection" (not ever really expecting it to stay), this was a fun video!
I've thought about using at lead protection but i don't think it would work now without a screamer on it
@@HowNOT2 definitely agree. I also can't imagine the movement of the rope through it during a fall would allow it to stay on the rock
Eye opener video for me!
Specially to see the rock breaking apart (it happens in the same manner when dry tooling).
The peckers... Might add one to my kit.
Cheers!
Awesome vid, loving all the new Nuts / Cams and now hook testing videos, fills me with confidence in my gear. 👌
Stay home
"Can't take this rock for Ganite" hahaha
That Talon is a very clever design. Im not an engineer but it looks like it does a much better job of distributing the load because the hook essentially acts as a pivot, and some of the load is transferred into the other 2 claws.
IMO talon's aren't that great; the other hooks obstruct the placement most of the time. They don't take much force since they're tapered with the rock instead of digging in.
Specifically, the other hooks push the attachment point further from the rock causing the hook to pull more outwards, making the rock much more likely to fail.
Thanks for all the great material. Just bought some coffee too :)
Thanks!
I bought that book it is by far the most informative and detailed book on aid or even climbing in general that I have ever seen.
This is a good rock-testing video.
Have you ever tried break testing a Grigri? Or maybe something smaller like the microtraxion?
I’d like to see that too. It would also be interesting to see how much force you can release with the grigri handle before the handle breaks
Rope breaks before grigri but releasing high tensions could be a good test
@@HowNOT2 How much does the grigri reduce rope strength?
Since it pinches the rope you'd think it weakens it? Probably more than a knot.
@@CrabTunafish Knots will be much worse, they strangle the rope, the grigri’s cam just squashes it.
Great episode!
In some parts of the world we are actually using peckers as lead pro extensively..
Super informative Ryan! Thanks for the amazing footage and data. I'd love to see some data on the rope damage difference between toothed ascenders vs non toothed at different loads. I'm curious if the microtraxion or ushba/uascend would be the best option for top rope solo. They both slide up the rope quite nicely.
id stay away from toothed camming devices for TR soloing. look into the Kong backup or a shunt..non toothed and feed smoothly. it doesnt take much to shred the sheath of the rope with a microtraxion or similar device.
Amazing stuff as always! Thank you for content!!
11:04 family guy laughter
A couple of the talon hooks are intended to be used in different sized drilled holes - old removed 1/4" bolts and 3/8" I think(?). It would be kind of cool to see how that use case fares, since you got rock blowouts from the full-width talon hook tests.
That sounds like a good test
Hiyya guys.
I suggest testing these same hooking tools but this time take note of the type of steel being used. You might have to contact the manufacturers for this info.
I noticed in the end chart it said "steel" under material, there are many types of steel with wildy varying properties.
Cool tests! 👍👍 … FWIW: Some safety glasses would be good form … ya know … flying little bits and such. 😎
At 13:51 the top part of the Rock is moving down about 1mm, you can see it very well when you switch the 2 frames where it slips out of the rock (watch frame by frame with , and . keys while video is paused)
Have you done a video testing heads/bashies? It’d be interesting to see the different sizes in perfect placements.
Could you pull test nut tools like they are pitons
do you use them like that?
@@HowNOT2 Haha, Derik obviously has had some desperate situations.
I can find a way to get a soft shackle in anything... *_wink, wink_*
ROFL! I Died right there!
The outer layers of the rock is weathered from the acids of the lichens. Of course it will flake off when pressure is applied.
Considering that the pecker has the best mechanical design it’s not a surprise that it did so well.
You should do a show on those old school forrest titon nuts. Maybe a show on all the old gear used back in the day.
The pecker was surprisingly strong. Good to know. I forgot I had a bunch of those.
that rock pun was the worst pun i've ever heard😂😂
Interesing, thanks for testing. :-)
Wait... Ball Nuts? We haven't seen that episode yet!
The cable loop breaking at 7.6 for a rating of 3 is exactly what you should expect. Each side of the loop supports half the tension, so it actually broke at 3.8 for a rating of 3.
All those puns man! :) :)
NGL this is pretty reassuring. But I find it funny watching rock climbing videos because im so scared even at home. matter of fact, I've sheathed roofs before, typically 7 over 12, and if i fall, i will easily break my leg, possibly my neck, back, arms, slim chance of death. But i do it carelessly. Im more terrified watching rock climbing than i am actually being at small heights myself hahaha.
If the hook bends out of shape, could you bend it back into shape and reuse it, or would it break way lower after its deformed?
I wonder how many comments have been given, begging mercy for the rocks
*Dwayne Johnson appears in the shadows*
12:15 that wa amazing the wire broke but i guess the most stress due to the edge of the pecker.
Thanks for testing hooks. Hooking up is the aid / big wall Bible, recommend to anyone looking at either.
When are you testing tricams?
Could you test this with a dynamic fall? Doing headpoint routes right now and I want to see how they do
Any chance for a video about water lining? Rigging, tips for mounting the linr, stuff like that. I wanted to try and I'm pretty sure the first time all I'll end up doing is swimming
Take this rock for Granite 😂😂😂😂 hell yeahhh', that's gold bro
First time learning how to jug up a rope was on Lost Arrow Spire. All I had were prusiks to use.
May I suggest some eye protection? Love the channel!
I would love to see you break test some high end ropes.
Great stuff! I’m gonna buy some of your coffee!
hola bon dia este libro no lo tienes en español,gracias un saludo.soys geniales
Standing there is fine, I would chuck on some safety squints though, having metal/rock chucks taken out the eyes'n'balls sucks.
Hi Guys, maybe someone knows which makita drill I can see there on the ground?
Peckers can really get the job done.
Great video ryan
Does someone know what steel they are made of?
I would use these hooks just to give myself some rest mid climb when lead climbing. I would slowly transfer my weight on it and not shock load it and possibly back it up with another hook....
Ill be honest i would not want to stand on sky hooks y your videos are so important
I've taken a near FF2 Daisy fall into a wide cam hook like the one tested. It held! The one I had just been weighting did not...
This really showed me how much the rock matters
I like that you're getting boulder with your pecker jokes all the time.
So doing some hooking on the side?
The scary thing is canyoneers are doing rappel off these things. But some of the things m
Canyoneers do make highlining look like sitting in your lazy boy at home.
That rock is really weathered.
"Didn't realize how much I was into peckers" 😂😂😂
I guess you can't take this rock for granite!!
The reason you broke so many flakes should be obvious with a cursory understanding of geology. As a geologist speaking, a flake is there because there is often a joint leading down into the rock at precisely the angle that you are pulling. This thin skin may be attached quite strongly, or in many cases (as you discovered), quite weakly.
I love your jokes!
But what about titanium Russian bat hooks from eBay!?
Yep, I think I’ll stay away from hooks.
Too bad FISH Hooks are not around anymore. Those long angle hooks are cleaner versions of the original, made in a campfire, cold annealed in a pot of water big flake hooks. And Ken Nichols et al have used hooks as free climbing protection in a variety of modes. And I've taped FISH hooks down as pro on harder routes.
where eye-pro?
Love those pecker jokes!
Pecker moved cause it lifted the cap rock
What is the weight equivalent to 1kn in pounds?
Very roughly, a kilonewton is 100 kg which is around 220 pounds. If you want it exact ask google.
@@JasperJanssen Thanks, I am 1.1 kilonewtons
@@JasperJanssen actually 1 kN is 98,1kg, so it's very close to 100kg. Only 2% difference
C Ollivier yes, that’s what I said. Very roughly.
I’m really surprised with the design of the hooks. For how well engineered some climbing gear is hooks make little to no sense considering that the direction that force is meant to be applied to them is their weakest orientation.
Hooks only need to hold body weight + rack + a little margin. The placement will fail first 99/100 times. As such hooks are optimized for placement & just use enough material to be strong enough.
How long did it take you to take your first pipe up your shoot
so,,,,,,, a constant pull vs an actual fall are two different actions in physics. I like what you do, but the physics won't match up. math is beautiful. keep up the good work. much love. climb higher.
How not to hookup... I have a PhD in this, why was I not consulted?
I don't like hooks, I think I wouldn't feel comfortable sitting on that and then feeling it on my face when it poops out of the rock.
Then don't aid climb. I trust gear more than i do bolts people put in lol.
@Evan Kimber what make me feel unconfortable it's the small edge where you put the gear, with a bolt there is almost 2 inch bolt inside the rock (offcourse it could be less or being rusty) what I fear is the rock fail more than the gear.
@@felipecuervo1 for sure. Everyone has different experiences. I just dont put the bolt in and i dont know if they know what they are doing. I remember my first time putting in a bolt. Youll see aluminim home made hangers sometimes here in the rockies. Or spinning bolts etc. Gear i know i placed it and if i was smart it will hold
Cool I'm first everything
Cool I fist everything
didn't know how into peckers I was either
信势蛋蛋呢？
Why were you testing gear out 3000 feet in the air? super sketchy.
because the instructions said it would work haha
He was "testing" it. He was using it for its designed purpose. If you ever do the Arrow Tip, you'll discover you step out on a little ledge and suddenly you have thousands of feet of exposure with the wind in your hair and the Upper Yo Semite Falls roaring behind you (to give it the Presidential pronunciation). I remember the spot well; it was my first A3 placement, a Leeper and a (I think) 3/4 angle tied off. It took two or three attempts at the placement before it would hold my body weight. One thing to remember about all these placements: They are only should be intended to hold you body weight plus a bit. Don't bounce on them; don't jiggle around on them; be smooth.
Cool but no one aid climbs anymore. NIAD or nothing.
THERE'S A BALLNUT VIDEO?
Eye protection climbing helmet leather gloves
I don't think anything is rated for a Bobby:1.
Tried watching this but there were so many damn ads that I didn't finish it
Owen Wilson "wow" intensifies.
I'm not climbing, but you guys seriously use hooks like that for climbing? WTF
Pretty much aid climbing only.
Usually just body weight. However the peckers can be super bomber
Trackpad does aid climbing mean it’s just to aid and not life support?
Ryan Christensen free climbing is climbing the rock with your hands and feet and you place pro (protection) to save your life if you fall. (Trad, sport, etc.)
Aid climbing is the same as free climbing except the climb is harder than your ability to free climb it, so you place gear as high as you can reach (or place) and you pull up on the gear that you placed instead of the rock, then using aid ladders, you step up higher, rinse & repeat until you get to the next free climbable section, or the top.
Prairie Climber damn, thank you for helping me understand. I have only climbed trees. ✌️
Ryan, you stated that this rock was Granite? I don’t think it is, it looks more like Breccia or some other conglomerate. It is way to crumbly to be Igneous Granite. When a chunk pulls off in your video, it leaves a sandy type bunch of material behind that is uncharacteristic of Granite. Basically, no one gives a sh*t what it is except old farts like me that had to sit through many semesters of Geology back in the day, lol.
Dude, you sound exactly like Chris Kalous. "This episode brought to you by..... no one. Oh by the way here's the coffee I'm selling"
They’re not supposed to hold a whipper.
Repeat that, not designed for fall protection
You only weigh (so fucking much less than that).
So this clip, is just to break shit, including the rock.
not cool to damage rocks to make your youtube fortune
Not cool at all . The rock now Looks more fucked up than a rock with paint on it.
Shut up retard
Damage rocks? WTF are you even talking about bud....
He's not Rio Tinto or Glencoe mate 🫨
Your lack if common sense is scary