I was playing around with the diffs on my TT-02 (pretty much identical when it comes to setup as far as I can see, still need to get an upper deck for racing on carpet) and I read a really good way to not quite lock your front diff. You get Tamiya Differential putty (which is designed for diffs so won't break any rules against using non diff stuff in your diff), you stick a 2cm bit to each of the bigger gears then squeeze it all together. this gives a really nice firm diff but with just a little give! Also you get loads of Diff putty for about 15 quid :) Thanks for the tips on tires though, need to order some of those!
Mark I want to give you a huge Thank You for this video. I recently rebuilt and updated my tt01 to run at our local track in the VTA class and was fighting an oversteer problem. I set mine up exactly as your setup for a starting point, and now the car is perfect i bly have to do a couple minor changes to it now to run it on carpet and then change my t back for asphalt. Thank you so much for your tips
Interesting and timely about the chassis flex for the outdoor car makes sense how you explained it and sheds some light to why F1 is banging on about it at the moment 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Valuable info, thanks! I'm just trying to get a stock class setup for practice indoor too. I've got an M-05 pretty ,much set up now for just getting the track time hours in and improving. I'm loving it, total noob at track work but it's great and I love the cheap aspect of these sort of simple setup.
@@PopalongRC I question popped to mind after a fabulous train session today. The M-05 diff. I've seen you thrust diffs full of AW grease. I've used Diff putty in this one and wonder if that's overkill? We're restricted to 60D radials too, I run medium fronts and super soft backs. The fronts have CA around the outside walls and over the first block of the tread. I'm getting quicker but still need to tweak it and my driving.
It is all about smooth lines and carrying speed with the M-chassi cars Taking a wider turn is much better whereas the touring cars are straight in and out with sharper turns . Sounds like you are doing the right things .
Hi PopalongRC, any chance you could do this type of set up video Les for the euro truck and team associated buggy’s you race please?? This video really helped me racing indoors on carpet. Cheers and keep up the good work lads 👌🏻
Just got into touring cars so massive thanks for the videos and advice worlds apart from buggys. Out of interest what pistons do you guys run in the shocks? Just about to build a set.
I’ve had ball diffs on my other touring cars in the past and I really like them. I haven’t used on on the tt01 as our rules don’t allow it, but I rekon it would be real nice👍
Hi Again, a "Few" of questions if you please; When trying to use the wider rear wheel hex on my TT-01E, (with Euro Truck Wheels) there isn't enough thread for the wheel nut to go on completely. Am I doing something wrong or Is there a longer rear axle hub that I could use or do you just locktite the rear wheel nuts. Suggestions? Could you see any advantage to running the truck as a short wheelbase version? We run a parking lot track that usually has about a 80-100ft main straight and couple of TIGHT 180 degree turns and a mix of medium tight corners. Here's a link to the RCTech forum where "The Lap Factory" has it's race results, race day info and track layouts. Note my post at the bottom (pg 26) and reply on the next/last page. So far not many people seem to be following the "Euro Truck" rules and my stock geared (19/61) truck has been getting it's headlights sucked out by other trucks coming from behind down the main straight. "oh it's got stock motor and gearing" they say. Yeah, Right!!!! :-( BTW; They use Sugar Water (Root Beer) sprayed first thing in the AM as a traction aid and the temps these days are 80-90+ degrees F. Sunny So. Cal., eh Wooot! I'm using WD40 on the rear tires and it seems to work quite well. Your thoughts on WD40 vs SXT 3.0. Which version of the SXT 3.0 do you use for outdoor tracks. Red cap/Max or "Light"? What motor are you running in the outdoor car? It looks like it's Brushed? I'm restricted to the Tamiya "Torque Tuned" 25T motor. I used the low voltage ie 4 volts/long slow (3-4hr) break-in method. After 3 practice days and about 600 laps, my brushes are finally fully seated on the Comm. I use Tri-Flow as my motor and bearing oil of choice. Is there a particular brand/type of bearings you prefer? Should I run the Tamiya 53673 3(?) degree (TT-01R?) rear toe in blocks on the Euro Truck? What are you using in your cars? Any thoughts on getting the (Must run) "pogo stick" stock shocks to work better/damping? I'm a pretty aggressive driver and my truck is a bounce myster in the long bumpy high speed sweepers. Should I run the rear shocks at the top inner mount holes or outer? How about the tie rods; inner mount holes or outer? My setup; At the moment I've got the front (shocks)s at the top outer and rears at the top inner. Tie rods in the outer position. I'm using 1 Mil in the front Dif at the moment and noticed it improved the low speed turn-in a bit. Rear Dif has just a light coating of the Kit Tamiya Gears on the gears. I use Powdered Graphite on the Pinion and Spur gears. I've got some Tamiya AW Grease coming to try as well. I'm using the MAN Cabover body shell with the Conventional Buggyra Fox Body waiting in the wings for paint and assembly. I'm aware that Cabover is too tall and heavy so I'd like to try the Bittydesign Cabover but need to get our race director to approve it. I'm getting severe Fr/Rr inner tread wear and would like to figure out a way to change/adjust the Camber. Your thoughts. Thanks in advance for your time, suggestions and consideration. cheers Boots Langley La Mesa, Ca
@@PopalongRC Thanks Mark. Sorry I got carried away with the Q's. I'm returning to RC racing after 25 years and am trying my darndest to get back up to speed ASAP. Thanks for any help you can give. BTW, I finally finished my 2nd Euro truck that I'll use as a Practice rig so I don't wear the "Fresh" off the Race truck. It also has some of the typical TT-01 upgrades (alloy Driveshaft kit, Dog Bones, steering linkage, etc) so it''s not legal to race but will help keep me sharp. Stay safe and healthy. cheers Boots Langley La Mesa, Ca
I just started box stock racing and I did the grease mod to the front diff and guys come up to me asking what I did different. The front end can totally pull it out of a situation being almost locked..😅
I’m very new to this and I just bought the TT-01E clk-gtr. I bought the same esc (hobby wing 1060) and I wanted to know if I can run LiPo with the stock motor ? I ask because I don’t see any 7.2V LiPo Thank you in advance!
Just out of interest, why do you put the blue springs on the front and yellow on the back? According to Yeah Racing the blue are medium and the yellow are soft, so I would have thought they would be the other way around on your car? Same question for the shock oil, you’ve put the more viscous in the front and less in the back? You clearly know your stuff so I’m interested to know
Thanks so much for your insight. I'm running Euro Truck so I can't use most of your tips, but I also have built a 2nd TT-01E chassis as a back up and practice truck. With a body shell change, I can use your tips and run it as a touring car, so I look forward to a Team Tamiya with parts spares and swapability inhouse. Good luck with your future racing. "Break a leg"!!! ;-) cheers Boots Langley La Mesa, Ca PS; I've subscribed and "Liked" all the videos of yours I've seen. Good stuff!!!!!!!!!
I was playing around with the diffs on my TT-02 (pretty much identical when it comes to setup as far as I can see, still need to get an upper deck for racing on carpet) and I read a really good way to not quite lock your front diff. You get Tamiya Differential putty (which is designed for diffs so won't break any rules against using non diff stuff in your diff), you stick a 2cm bit to each of the bigger gears then squeeze it all together. this gives a really nice firm diff but with just a little give! Also you get loads of Diff putty for about 15 quid :) Thanks for the tips on tires though, need to order some of those!
Like the setup videos, keep up the good work, most informative for sure.
Brilliant Mark, thanks. To give the rest of us a chance you should use the controller one handed next meeting.
Mark I want to give you a huge Thank You for this video. I recently rebuilt and updated my tt01 to run at our local track in the VTA class and was fighting an oversteer problem. I set mine up exactly as your setup for a starting point, and now the car is perfect i bly have to do a couple minor changes to it now to run it on carpet and then change my t back for asphalt. Thank you so much for your tips
Cheers Rick, no worries, glad it helped 👍
Thanks gonna purchase a TT02 soon . Getting back into it .
Really helpful man! Great stuff!
excellent vid. What pistons are you using? and where can the longer hexes be had? Cheers.
Nice tamiya AW G. tip. Thank you.
You’re welcome
very good baseline setup. similar setups on my 1/8th scale on road
Solid base line then tweak out those little improvements
Great video as always! Very similar set up to my TT02 👍🏻
Cool
Seeing you racing soon
Interesting and timely about the chassis flex for the outdoor car makes sense how you explained it and sheds some light to why F1 is banging on about it at the moment 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Glad you found the video informative … thanks for watching
Valuable info, thanks!
I'm just trying to get a stock class setup for practice indoor too. I've got an M-05 pretty ,much set up now for just getting the track time hours in and improving.
I'm loving it, total noob at track work but it's great and I love the cheap aspect of these sort of simple setup.
We have had lots of fun racing with M05’s during our M03 days
@@PopalongRC I question popped to mind after a fabulous train session today.
The M-05 diff. I've seen you thrust diffs full of AW grease. I've used Diff putty in this one and wonder if that's overkill?
We're restricted to 60D radials too, I run medium fronts and super soft backs. The fronts have CA around the outside walls and over the first block of the tread.
I'm getting quicker but still need to tweak it and my driving.
It is all about smooth lines and carrying speed with the M-chassi cars
Taking a wider turn is much better whereas the touring cars are straight in and out with sharper turns .
Sounds like you are doing the right things .
Great video.
Cheers buddy
Nice one, valued information.
Hi PopalongRC, any chance you could do this type of set up video Les for the euro truck and team associated buggy’s you race please?? This video really helped me racing indoors on carpet. Cheers and keep up the good work lads 👌🏻
When we have the knowledge we can share …..
On the hpi Nissan body you say you gave it a light coat of paint because it is heavy.
What is the finished weight of the body ?
Cheers
Good Question, not sure if I’m honest, just get it as light as possible I’d say👍
thank you. would the setups work on the tt02? thanks
Our good friend at total Tamiya runs very similar on his TT02.. check out his channel as he races the TT02 and TT01E
@@PopalongRC Thank you very much. Just starting a TT02 class in Toronto.
Great stuff. I'm assuming this information will also apply to the TT02 chassis, or is that not the case?
I think so, I know that gearing is different on the 02👍
Looking at getting one of these, what option parts have you added,? So it can be raced. Cheers
Yeah racing shocks, ball races, ally propshaft and smaller spur gear👍
@@PopalongRC cool, standard drive shafts? As the TT02 ones pop out as soon as you look at them. Looking at revival RC Southampton event. Cheers
@Gnomeology1 cool
Just got into touring cars so massive thanks for the videos and advice worlds apart from buggys. Out of interest what pistons do you guys run in the shocks? Just about to build a set.
Currently running 3 holes
@@PopalongRC amazing thank you I'll give it a try.
How do you feel about Ball diff gearing? have you've tested it on your TT01s
I’ve had ball diffs on my other touring cars in the past and I really like them. I haven’t used on on the tt01 as our rules don’t allow it, but I rekon it would be real nice👍
Hi bud so on the tt01 for in doors you said a bout adding weights how much weight did you add plz 👍love the tt01s
I think I got an extra 40plus grams or so,
@@PopalongRC thanks man I need to add some to mine but was not sure on how much to put on it 👍
@@offsetrc seems to really help indoors for some reason👍
Is that a clip on fan? Do you have a link to buy?
Hi Again,
a "Few" of questions if you please;
When trying to use the wider rear wheel hex on my TT-01E, (with Euro Truck Wheels) there isn't enough thread for the wheel nut to go on completely.
Am I doing something wrong or Is there a longer rear axle hub that I could use or do you just locktite the rear wheel nuts. Suggestions?
Could you see any advantage to running the truck as a short wheelbase version? We run a parking lot track that usually has about a 80-100ft main straight and couple of TIGHT 180 degree turns and a mix of medium tight corners.
Here's a link to the RCTech forum where "The Lap Factory" has it's race results, race day info and track layouts. Note my post at the bottom (pg 26) and reply on the next/last page.
So far not many people seem to be following the "Euro Truck" rules and my stock geared (19/61) truck has been getting it's headlights sucked out by other trucks coming from behind down the main straight.
"oh it's got stock motor and gearing" they say.
Yeah, Right!!!! :-(
BTW; They use Sugar Water (Root Beer) sprayed first thing in the AM as a traction aid and the temps these days are 80-90+ degrees F.
Sunny So. Cal., eh Wooot!
I'm using WD40 on the rear tires and it seems to work quite well. Your thoughts on WD40 vs SXT 3.0. Which version of the SXT 3.0 do you use for outdoor tracks. Red cap/Max or "Light"?
What motor are you running in the outdoor car? It looks like it's Brushed? I'm restricted to the Tamiya "Torque Tuned" 25T motor. I used the low voltage ie 4 volts/long slow (3-4hr) break-in method. After 3 practice days and about 600 laps, my brushes are finally fully seated on the Comm.
I use Tri-Flow as my motor and bearing oil of choice.
Is there a particular brand/type of bearings you prefer?
Should I run the Tamiya 53673 3(?) degree (TT-01R?) rear toe in blocks on the Euro Truck? What are you using in your cars?
Any thoughts on getting the (Must run) "pogo stick" stock shocks to work better/damping? I'm a pretty aggressive driver and my truck is a bounce myster in the long bumpy high speed sweepers.
Should I run the rear shocks at the top inner mount holes or outer? How about the tie rods; inner mount holes or outer?
My setup;
At the moment I've got the front (shocks)s at the top outer and rears at the top inner. Tie rods in the outer position.
I'm using 1 Mil in the front Dif at the moment and noticed it improved the low speed turn-in a bit. Rear Dif has just a light coating of the Kit Tamiya Gears on the gears. I use Powdered Graphite on the Pinion and Spur gears.
I've got some Tamiya AW Grease coming to try as well.
I'm using the MAN Cabover body shell with the Conventional Buggyra Fox Body waiting in the wings for paint and assembly. I'm aware that Cabover is too tall and heavy so I'd like to try the Bittydesign Cabover but need to get our race director to approve it.
I'm getting severe Fr/Rr inner tread wear and would like to figure out a way to change/adjust the Camber. Your thoughts.
Thanks in advance for your time, suggestions and consideration.
cheers
Boots Langley
La Mesa, Ca
Thanks for commenting Boots … there is a lot to cover so we will chip away at this and answer as much as we can .. we will reply properly soon.
@@PopalongRC
Thanks Mark.
Sorry I got carried away with the Q's.
I'm returning to RC racing after 25 years and am trying my darndest to get back up to speed ASAP.
Thanks for any help you can give.
BTW, I finally finished my 2nd Euro truck that I'll use as a Practice rig so I don't wear the "Fresh" off the Race truck. It also has some of the typical TT-01 upgrades (alloy Driveshaft kit, Dog Bones, steering linkage, etc) so it''s not legal to race but will help keep me sharp.
Stay safe and healthy.
cheers
Boots Langley
La Mesa, Ca
I just started box stock racing and I did the grease mod to the front diff and guys come up to me asking what I did different. The front end can totally pull it out of a situation being almost locked..😅
Glad it is working for you … awesome
I’m very new to this and I just bought the TT-01E clk-gtr.
I bought the same esc (hobby wing 1060) and I wanted to know if I can run LiPo with the stock motor ? I ask because I don’t see any 7.2V LiPo
Thank you in advance!
Hi Amir, yes you can run lipo, they are always 7.4v which is fine👍
If you were allowed would you lock out front diff? And is suspension low and stiff? I'm looking at going to RC kicks track day with a tt02 cheers..
Can’t lock the diff, and yes the suspension is pretty low and stiff, hopefully see you at RC Kicks track day👍
@@PopalongRC that's brilliant cheers.
Super helpful, thank you for sharing
No worries, glad it’s helped you👍
Great video guys would love you to do a video about tto2 rc cars 🚗 😀
Stock TT02 on track is impressive
ua-cam.com/video/RLpltWudJj4/v-deo.html
We have few vids on the tt02
Thank you for this
Good luck with your racing ….
@@PopalongRC thank you 🙏
Awesome🤘y'all have a badass day🤘🍻🤘
Cheers Forrest … have a good day
Just out of interest, why do you put the blue springs on the front and yellow on the back? According to Yeah Racing the blue are medium and the yellow are soft, so I would have thought they would be the other way around on your car?
Same question for the shock oil, you’ve put the more viscous in the front and less in the back? You clearly know your stuff so I’m interested to know
Depends on the grip levels you are driving on… the indoor and outdoor set ups are pretty much reversed to get the best out of the cars
So carpet has more grip than outdoors then ?
What shell is that for your outside car mate ? A scoob I’m guessing ?
It is
What about camber and toe in toe out
It’s fixed on these
Thanks so much for your insight.
I'm running Euro Truck so I can't use most of your tips, but I also have built a 2nd TT-01E chassis as a back up and practice truck.
With a body shell change, I can use your tips and run it as a touring car, so I look forward to a Team Tamiya with parts spares and swapability inhouse.
Good luck with your future racing.
"Break a leg"!!! ;-)
cheers
Boots Langley
La Mesa, Ca
PS; I've subscribed and "Liked" all the videos of yours I've seen. Good stuff!!!!!!!!!
Cheers boots
Thanks for the support
Euro trucks are great fun
Spring rates?🤔
Hi there. Do you shim the arms and/or use wheel spacers?
Slightly larger on the rear of outdoor car but NO shims