Great diag, I love the uIsolate makes easy work of class 2 networks. Thanks for sharing! When you have a separate issue like the battery light, do you just add on more time, or it's a separate diag, so a whole new fee?
In this instance I did not charge any more ( I was making a vidoe too..) I do try to get something extra for multiple issues, just because we can fix an issue quickly does not mean that we should not be compensated for the skill and knowledge.. a not so good mechanic might charge 3 hours and get Paid lol..
Just had a 2010 impala bad low speed can had 4 bad modules hvac ipc theft deterrent and airbag module. Unhooked the splice pack and hooked one up at a time pulled the network down. It was on the west side of Columbus before I got called it was a gem
It was at different shops the customer says they jumped it backwards. Do you know of a tool that can correct mileage on s as 2014 fusion used cluster? Or could I just swap the eeprom from the original to donor it’s a used car lot the original has a busted lcd screen
Nice job Brian. From the Identifix fix details "Disconnect the negative battery cable and touch it to the positve.... and then reconnect the cable." I don't recommend following that instruction. 😊
Yes, that was meant to be satire to the poor way this was written. Of course you did this correctly with BOTH cables disconnected from the battery. If someone followed the procedure as written they would be in for a suprise. Also, good point about the possibilty of having an auxiliary battery. @@BrianMann216
The scope is an AES wave U spope, the splice test leads are AES wave U Isolate. www.aeswave.com/uScope-Basic-Kit-p9621.html www.aeswave.com/uIsolate-Network-Isolator-p9669.html
I came across your video since I am working on a no start in a Chev Express. At 0.34 i see that octopus test lead, What is it called? I think my issue is in the canbus and that test lead would work there a lot easier than making a bunch of leads.
Thanks for the link, maybe i will have one for next time. Today I found that it is the ABS module putting voltage into my canbus causing the no start. The diagnostic paperclips did the job but a harness like that would be handy.
Why can’t these computer nerds make a scan / diagnostic tool that can scan the vehicle vin and know everything on the vehicle. Rather than adding it when scanning 🤷♂️.. great diag 👊🏻
Great work, Brian!
Excellent job. I like that wire harness isolater you have
Thanks! That network isolation kit is great
Nice job Brian!
Thanks!
Great diag, I love the uIsolate makes easy work of class 2 networks. Thanks for sharing! When you have a separate issue like the battery light, do you just add on more time, or it's a separate diag, so a whole new fee?
In this instance I did not charge any more ( I was making a vidoe too..) I do try to get something extra for multiple issues, just because we can fix an issue quickly does not mean that we should not be compensated for the skill and knowledge.. a not so good mechanic might charge 3 hours and get Paid lol..
@@BrianMann216 I agree, I charge multiple issues as if it's a separate car. If I'm making a video I'll usually give them a break .
AWESOME and great thought process to fix the issue thanks for sharing Brian cheeeeers from CANADA.
Thanks for watching!
thanks for sharing
For sure
Just had a 2010 impala bad low speed can had 4 bad modules hvac ipc theft deterrent and airbag module. Unhooked the splice pack and hooked one up at a time pulled the network down. It was on the west side of Columbus before I got called it was a gem
Was it a flood car?
It was at different shops the customer says they jumped it backwards. Do you know of a tool that can correct mileage on s as 2014 fusion used cluster? Or could I just swap the eeprom from the original to donor it’s a used car lot the original has a busted lcd screen
Not sure, I would try auto pro pad 1st via obd
Very nice sir
Nice job Brian. From the Identifix fix details "Disconnect the negative battery cable and touch it to the positve.... and then reconnect the cable." I don't recommend following that instruction. 😊
I agree , that's why I jump it with a bulb or load, i feel that is much better in case there is a secondary or auxiliary battery.
Yes, that was meant to be satire to the poor way this was written. Of course you did this correctly with BOTH cables disconnected from the battery.
If someone followed the procedure as written they would be in for a suprise. Also, good point about the possibilty of having an auxiliary battery. @@BrianMann216
Was there codes set in any modules? At least anything benificial?
I like the can bus scope with the splice tester, what brand is it, or where I can Buy one sir??
The scope is an AES wave U spope, the splice test leads are AES wave U Isolate. www.aeswave.com/uScope-Basic-Kit-p9621.html www.aeswave.com/uIsolate-Network-Isolator-p9669.html
So the bad radio put down the low can network, that disabled the theft deternt module and the bcm causing a no crank no start im guessing.
Yes. When the radio pulled down the low speed network, the bcm and therefore the pcm did not recieve the proper start enable code
Thanks.
I came across your video since I am working on a no start in a Chev Express. At 0.34 i see that octopus test lead, What is it called? I think my issue is in the canbus and that test lead would work there a lot easier than making a bunch of leads.
www.aeswave.com/uIsolate-Network-Isolator-p9669.html
Thanks for the link, maybe i will have one for next time. Today I found that it is the ABS module putting voltage into my canbus causing the no start. The diagnostic paperclips did the job but a harness like that would be handy.
❤❤❤❤❤
Why can’t these computer nerds make a scan / diagnostic tool that can scan the vehicle vin and know everything on the vehicle. Rather than adding it when scanning 🤷♂️.. great diag 👊🏻
I don't even think g m knows what they made
@@BrianMann216 😂😂 I’ll bet I was a goodwrench technician in the 70s soooo much has changed. Trying to Learn. Love your channel