How to Fix Wood Rot 4 of 4
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
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Wood petrified used in the video: amzn.to/48zPXZe
Epoxy used in video: amzn.to/37Nr8zi
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www.AsktheBuild... founder, Tim Carter, shows you step by step in this four part video series how to repair wood rot and SAVE hundreds and thousands of dollars. Go to: www.askthebuild...
Carter reveals an amazing wood fortifier product and a two-part wood epoxy that can be sanded, stained, and painted.
After the fortifier and epoxy are cured, you can shape them and completely restore rotted wood.
Rotted wood railings, rotted window sills, rotted decking boards, rotted siding can all be repaired with these magical products.
Discover more wood rot repair tips at askthebuilder.com:
www.askthebuild...
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Did my video above HELP you? Look under the video and click the THANKS text link. Do what Riku did!
What name of that I need to fix my wood
I think that is exactly what I was looking for. Now I’m gonna try it !!! Thank you
Are you related to "BOB the BUILDER " ? LOL
Miss you, Tim. You were one of the first and always were the best. Ron Hazelton is ok, but honestly can’t compare to your detailed, comprehensive, elegant, and economical solutions to building maintenance and repair. One knows when one sits at the feet of a master. I’m no longer a homeowner; I now repair my sister’s home.
Many thanks for your kind words. God had a different plan for me. I did record a pilot for a national TV show, but a very large PBS show stole my idea after I showed the pilot to the GM at the Cincinnati PBS affiliate. I didn't have the resources to fight them in court.
Thank so much for the helpful DIY window repair series! Ordered the materials and doing this for my stuccco'd house w/ 96 yo wood sills that are in the same shape. Feel confident I can accomplish this after watching. The tips are quite helpful as well - especially the drip kerf!
If you ever get into a real bind, I do phone coaching: shop.askthebuilder.com/15-minute-phone-or-video-conversation-with-tim/
Thank you for making this. Watched all the 4 videos. They are were very helpful.
Since I helped you, why not treat me to a mocha-chip ice cream cone? shop.askthebuilder.com/tims-tip-jar/
I think i'd fix the window sill first then the concrete underneath it and make it water proof so it doesn't go inside the home, fix it right the first time and you won't have to do it again, that's how i was brought up, doesn't matter what your doing, that saying applies to everything.
The stucco under the sill is in great shape. The homeowner just neglected the wood window and sill. But it's all in great shape now.
Exactly, expensive hacking.
I purchased the Arbatron epoxy products in the late 90's and used them on a front door sill with southern exposure. I used glazing compound thinned with linseed oil on the window sills that had the same southern exposure. Both solutions did ok for about a decade but the oily glazing compound has held up better after 25 years. The door and windows have roughly the same height. Just one data point. At this point the door sill needs to be completely replaced. We are putting in a white oak door sill next week.
That is a remarkable tale. Almost hard to believe. I suspect very little direct exposure to sunlight contributed to your results.
Thank you for the four part series. I am living in a 120 year old house and have this very issue to deal with. I am a rookie and so have to ask about the next step. Do you just sand it down to prepare the new surface for painting? If so, what are the options for sanding (?grit).
Glad to help. If you really want to thank me, click the THANKS text link under the video. I offer phone coaching to help answer detailed questions: shop.askthebuilder.com/consult-tim/
If the repair gets direct sunlight, the continual expansion and contraction of the wood will gradually cause the filler to detach from the wood . The same thing happens with oil based paint films. It doesn't seem to happen with linseed oil putty for some reason.
Can you please share the scientific data to support your claim that the epoxy will detach from the wood? It's now been installed in that window sill for about ten years and it looks as good as the day I put it in. How many contraction/expansion cycles of the wood does it take before the failure happens? Or, are you *speculating* there might be a failure?
@@askthebuilder My observation was based on using the stuff on the many windows in my Victorian house for over forty years. On the side of the house receiving no direct sun it lasts for many years, probably around 15 - 20, but on the side getting direct sun it's around 4 - 5 years before it's cracking. My winows are soft wood and at least 100 years old so that might have some bearing on the matter.
Thanks for sharing this. I will put this to good use.
Since I helped you, why not treat me to a mocha-chip ice cream cone? shop.askthebuilder.com/tims-tip-jar/
Excellent but it would be nice to let viewers know what brand of epoxy to use
Polo, did you see the title to the video? It's the last video in a 4-part series. Do you think it's possible I revealed the name in videos 1 or 2? Such a sad mistake.
It’s called PC Woody. Good stuff! Thanks for the videos.
Tim, a stiffer putty knife would allow you to more effectively drive the epoxy into the cracks.
I'm not so sure I agree with that. Do you have any independent test data to back up that speculation of yours?
Still replying after 6 years. I salute you gramps 😎
I have a t-shirt that says, "If Grumpa Can't Fix It, NO ONE Can". That's why I have to continue to reply. You can do a real salute by clicking that THANKS text link under the video and reciprocate for any help I gave you. :-)
You are a Star! Thanks for the tutorial :)
Any time! If this helped you, maybe you can buy me a mocha chip ice cream cone, that seems like the right thing to do: shop.askthebuilder.com/tims-tip-jar/
Great tips, thank you 💪🏆
You're welcome. If you're really serious about the thank you, then go up and click the *THANKS* text link and consider buying me a beer.
So very smooth English to my ears made in Japan ^_^
Where are you from? May I ask?
I hale from the North American continent on the Earth Ball. The rest is nice-to-know information. Where are you from? A place of many rocks with abundant hares hopping about????
Excellent thank you
You are very welcome. Did you see the new THANKS icon below the video? If my video helped you, you now can leave me a tip like you would a waitress or your barber.
Thanks!
Thanks so much! That was very generous of you. You'll love the PC Woody product. Don't glob it on. You want to keep your sanding to a minimum.
Excellent video! Exactly what I needed and will be using your links in the description! Quick question... I assume you sanded the entire area of that window sill before doing any work? And if so, was it a very thorough sand or just a quick light sand? Thanks!
Yes, I sanded it pretty well using 60-grit paper. I then dusted it off well before putting on the PC Petrifier. See the THANKS button under the video? Please click it and do the right thing. :-)
@@askthebuilder Will do!
I'd like to see what this looks like when it's all finished.
Well, I can tell you that once sanded and painted the sill looked like it was brand new. I saw photos of the finished sill. My job was to just put in the epoxy and then I flew back to NH. The homeowner finished the project a few months later. It was in Los Angeles, CA.
@@askthebuilder can you color or stain that stuff?
Also dig your channel!
You mention liquid petrifier at the beginning. Do you use both a liquid petrifier as a seal and then apply the paste? I'm confused. Thanks.
You should probably watch my additional video I did on this topic to eliminate confusion: ua-cam.com/video/Cl4BiMhzuTo/v-deo.html
@@askthebuilder Thank you!
Tim, you should vacuum that windowsill before applying the epoxy.
Why? Isn't brushing the dust away good enough?
Tim, would this work on small patches of water-damaged wood siding?
Yes. Since I helped you, why not treat me to a mocha-chip ice cream cone? shop.askthebuilder.com/tims-tip-jar/
All the wood on the top of my pergola looks like that. What would be a good temporary fix? The pergola is 25 ft by 10 ft. I'm afraid paint would just go down the cracks and take gallons and gallons.
Why a temp fix??? Why don't you do it the right ways as I show in this series????
@@askthebuilder because it's to big of a project for this old lady. I just want to get by for a couple of years looking acceptable to me.
Hmmm.....wouldn't it be easier to replace the sill. I'm in the middle of replacing all the sills on my home. Switching to white maintenance free PVC or similar molding. So far, it looks great and I won't have to worry about rot in the future, especially on the north side.
Bill I don't know about anyone else, but I'd LOVE to see you upload a video of you switching out one of your old sills for a new PVC one. Start to finish... I want to see how you get out the old sill, how you create a matching profile with the new material, then how in the world you screw the new sill up into the vertical window jambs. Please come back and paste in the URL to your video right below this comment once you have it uploaded to your channel. Thanks in advance!
Yes it would, but you're normal
Dang I gotta pull the caulking I used on the drip curve 😒
Glad you like my videos. If one or more helped save you time and $$$, check out the *THANKS* text link under all my videos.
might as well do it right and replace the window. Epoxy and the wood hardener are expensive.
+DIY Home The window sash, the frame and trim were all in excellent shape. Just the sill was let go. Plus, the homeowner wanted to keep the house historically accurate. A new window with all the work required to put it in, would be about $700 or more. You can fix this sill for less than $40 using the epoxy.
$40 including labour?
No. The $40 is for material in 2016 cost.
What the name of this please
That's odd. I thought I showed it in the video. Here it is: amzn.to/3mhczdW
"Wood petrifier?" What kind? What brand? Too bad this video skipped over this critical step!
Some good info, but the specs on the wood petrifier, and on that epoxy being used, are critical facts I want to know!
Great catch. I thought years ago when I posted the video the video title would help you figure it out. I *assumed* you'd watch videos #1, 2 and 3 before this one or just after it in case this one was first on your list. I've just revised the description and put the link there. Here it is as well: amzn.to/48zPXZe
@askthebuilder Thanks. My phone didn't immediately display the "part 4" bit, so I didn't realize until later there were 3 videos before. I eventually did see them however. Thanks!
Lol Ive just been rewatching Breaking bad,l.
Would like to restore my 30 year old deck but that epoxy is to expensive just like lumber.
Your comment is a fantastic example of why regular maintenance is so important. If you let something go, then the price to bring it back can be outrageous as you're now discovering.
I was surprised how poorly your wood petrifier product works. We purchased a GALLON of wood pretrifier, and when we asked for a refund because it actually made the repqir worse, your Sales Director (Rich Baker) offered to remedy the problem by offering us a 16 OUNCE replacement, and went so far as to deny us ANYy amount of refund from the company who actually makes the product - and yes we have all receipts. I don't know why the product performed so poorly, but we went to Home Depot and bought a bottle of VARATHANE, wood hardener, and it worked perfectly. It's one thing to make a product that customers cannot benefit from, but to refuse to refund a customers money -- YOU HAVE NO WARRANTY WHATSOEVER -- BEWARE.
As we all know, there's TWO sides to every story. I think I'll ask Rich Baker to come here and tell his half. Something tells me, Kevin, that you might not have followed the written instructions. We'll see what Rich has to say.
Why not just put a new piece of wood on top of the rottten one
Yes very helpful but I debate the permanence of this solution.
+Robert Sheffey I can tell you the epoxy is not going to rot. The PC Hardener also helps prevent wood rot. I can't think of a better way to minimize the wood rot. The only way it's going to fail is if you somehow allow the wood to continue to get wet.
Thanks for the response, I believe the hardener will slow the rot, but you can't stop water it will find a way in.
+Robert Sheffey
if you know what you are doing the water will not "find a way in"
thats what you would be getting paid for!
ads every 30 seconds. look elsewhere
I don't put the ads in. UA-cam does. Why are you complaining???? You get the content for FREE! Would you rather pay me a subscription price each month to watch ad-free versions of my videos? If the answer is NO, then why in the heck are you complaining?????