Not watched the whole video yet (part way through) so you may have worked this out for yourself. Thought I'd chime in anyway. You mentioned compensating for stone thickness, and this is definitely a concern. However, it is dealt with very simply with this particular sharpener. Most sharpeners fix the blade at a given angle and all adjustments are made with the guide rod. Switch to a stone with a different thickness and the rod raises or lowers, and the angle in relation to the blade changes. You then need to change the angle of the rod to compensate. With the Xarilk, you adjust the sharpening angle by adjusting the angle of the clamp. The guide rod should always stay horizontal, hence the inclusion of the spirit level. With the Xarilk, change the stone thickness, and the guide rod will no longer be horizontal. Use the spirit level - or better still, your digital angle cube - to bring the rod back to horizontal, and you will have automatically corrected for the stone thickness. Hope that helps (and makes sense!)
@@tipsyrippers I bought the gen 3 and the only thing better is the holder. I use it on my gen 2. The rest of the gen 3 sits in a box in the other room.
The knife is flexing right and left I had same issue on my work sharp just bought gen 3 of this model hope it's better. We all have same issue with the tip if blade curves the farther you get away from center worse it gets if you don't adjust.
Yea, I mean you could try the little spacer support for the work sharp. It seems like it’s a cheap fix for a major issue. There’s so many better systems out there but they are all good budget friendly sharpeners.
You're using it wrong... That is not the correct way of using a sharpening rig like this. You should be using a sawing motion or push motion towards the spine of the blade , NOT pushing it along the edge..... Look up Neeves Knives , he has tons of vids on all kinds of systems.
Hmm. I’m not sure theres just one way to sharpen knives using a guided system though. The goal is to get a consistent burr. The motion I am using is pushing. On a small knife it’s easier to get a consistent apex performing a consistent motion. The goal itself is to create a burr. I don’t think you’re wrong but there’s more ways to sharpen than one. I’ve watched 30 videos from 30 different content creators and not one of them does it the same way. I don’t mind being informed of things that are wrong because I’m here to learn. I’ve done it both ways, with very similar results and I find the method I used easier on small knives and the blade results in the same form. I fully appreciate tips and suggestions but saying I’m doing it wrong is subjective.
@@tipsyrippers I havent seen a single vid of someone using a guided system like this. Everyone tries to use the full length of the stone with the saw motion or the push. It's the fastest way of taking of material , gives a nice consistent scratch patern , keeps the wear on the stone nice and even. Watch ANY sharpening vid from someone that knows what they're doing , they ALWAYS try to use the full length of the stone.
To add to Danny's comments, the side to side motion CAN be useful, but only very lightly, at the end of each stone progression, as a deburring step. With regards to the sharpening, you can 'scrub' up and down to remove metal quickly, only push up, which is better for forming your burr, or just use downstrokes - this is a stropping motion. Only use downstrokes with strops or polishing tapes, or you will cut in to them. Using up and down strokes as you sharpen creates microscopic saw teeth along the edge, and it is these that do the cutting.
@@stephenwallace2423 Worksharp did a vid on the first Precision Adjust model compairing saw motion vs push cuts. Saw motion was quicker in removal , but push cuts created a much cleaner edge with better defined "teeth". I've bought the same unit , its pretty nice... Only gripe i have with it is the stoneholder , there's too much flex in it. Should be able to fix it with some Loc-tite and a bushing for the bolt holding them together.
Not watched the whole video yet (part way through) so you may have worked this out for yourself. Thought I'd chime in anyway.
You mentioned compensating for stone thickness, and this is definitely a concern. However, it is dealt with very simply with this particular sharpener.
Most sharpeners fix the blade at a given angle and all adjustments are made with the guide rod. Switch to a stone with a different thickness and the rod raises or lowers, and the angle in relation to the blade changes. You then need to change the angle of the rod to compensate.
With the Xarilk, you adjust the sharpening angle by adjusting the angle of the clamp. The guide rod should always stay horizontal, hence the inclusion of the spirit level. With the Xarilk, change the stone thickness, and the guide rod will no longer be horizontal. Use the spirit level - or better still, your digital angle cube - to bring the rod back to horizontal, and you will have automatically corrected for the stone thickness.
Hope that helps (and makes sense!)
Thanks very helpful.
I prefer this model over the gen 3. Except for the gen 3's stone holder.
Yea, I think if they gave the gen 2 a new stone holder it would be great.
@@tipsyrippers I bought the gen 3 and the only thing better is the holder. I use it on my gen 2. The rest of the gen 3 sits in a box in the other room.
The knife is flexing right and left I had same issue on my work sharp just bought gen 3 of this model hope it's better. We all have same issue with the tip if blade curves the farther you get away from center worse it gets if you don't adjust.
Yea, I mean you could try the little spacer support for the work sharp. It seems like it’s a cheap fix for a major issue. There’s so many better systems out there but they are all good budget friendly sharpeners.
@tipsyrippers I have one the clamp flex if it's not under 3" blade
Yea that’s unfortunate. You’re speaking about the work sharp sharpener right?
@@tipsyrippers yes
You're using it wrong...
That is not the correct way of using a sharpening rig like this.
You should be using a sawing motion or push motion towards the spine of the blade , NOT pushing it along the edge.....
Look up Neeves Knives , he has tons of vids on all kinds of systems.
Hmm. I’m not sure theres just one way to sharpen knives using a guided system though. The goal is to get a consistent burr. The motion I am using is pushing. On a small knife it’s easier to get a consistent apex performing a consistent motion. The goal itself is to create a burr.
I don’t think you’re wrong but there’s more ways to sharpen than one. I’ve watched 30 videos from 30 different content creators and not one of them does it the same way.
I don’t mind being informed of things that are wrong because I’m here to learn. I’ve done it both ways, with very similar results and I find the method I used easier on small knives and the blade results in the same form. I fully appreciate tips and suggestions but saying I’m doing it wrong is subjective.
@@tipsyrippers
I havent seen a single vid of someone using a guided system like this.
Everyone tries to use the full length of the stone with the saw motion or the push. It's the fastest way of taking of material , gives a nice consistent scratch patern , keeps the wear on the stone nice and even.
Watch ANY sharpening vid from someone that knows what they're doing , they ALWAYS try to use the full length of the stone.
Strops and stones.
To add to Danny's comments, the side to side motion CAN be useful, but only very lightly, at the end of each stone progression, as a deburring step.
With regards to the sharpening, you can 'scrub' up and down to remove metal quickly, only push up, which is better for forming your burr, or just use downstrokes - this is a stropping motion. Only use downstrokes with strops or polishing tapes, or you will cut in to them.
Using up and down strokes as you sharpen creates microscopic saw teeth along the edge, and it is these that do the cutting.
@@stephenwallace2423
Worksharp did a vid on the first Precision Adjust model compairing saw motion vs push cuts.
Saw motion was quicker in removal , but push cuts created a much cleaner edge with better defined "teeth".
I've bought the same unit , its pretty nice... Only gripe i have with it is the stoneholder , there's too much flex in it. Should be able to fix it with some Loc-tite and a bushing for the bolt holding them together.