I have never used AN hoses before, I have always used rubber hose. However, I am installing a custom oil cooler (oil to coolant heat exchanger) in my Honda Civic very shortly and that will be my first time. I am going to be making my own 10AN oil lines. I am a bit worried that I am going to mess up since I never made AN lines before, but everyone has to start somewhere and your video was very helpful. Wish me luck LOL!
Best of luck. I would say the biggest rookie mistake is letting the stainless weaving fray when cutting the hose. A lot of people like to wrap the spot they are going to cut with electrical tape or masking tape tightly. That helps prevent fraying. I used to do this but now that I have the hose cutters that I use I don't have any issue with fraying anymore.
@@HotRodHippie That's a great tip, thank you! What is your preference on the material that the lines are made of? I know Teflon is good because it resists extreme heat and chemicals very well and is good for high pressure applications, but I have also heard that it isn't as flexible as standard rubber AN lines? Thanks
@@averyalexander2303 Teflon lined is good for pressure applications but that is the only time I use it. So like Brake lines, Clutch Lines, Power Steering, and AC hoses. It's far less flexible than regular braided so it has to make large sweeping turns, and the fittings don't swivel. So you have to orient your fittings just right when installing them or things won't line up properly. I only use it when I have to at this point. For oil lines you will be fine with standard AN hose. I personally have been using Russell Pro Classic hose lately. It has a Nylon black weave on the outside. It isn't as strong as regular stainless braided but it's good enough for my applications and has less of a race car look. For the driver/ hot rod cars I'm building that look fits better.
Alan: Great video, thank you! I have been plumbing racers and boats since 1972 when hose and fittings were available from Earl's Surplus. Ya, the stuff was still a Korean war surplus issue. I learned how to plumb cars from the crew at All American Racers in the early 70s. One thing we did was to wash the hoses and cap them until they were ready to be installed. The cutting process can generate some metal shards that can eventually find their way into the engines and such.
"as long as i use a chrome wrench and im careful i dont tear up these fittings." >>>proceeds to tear up the shoulder of the red fitting. lol jk but who fuckin cares anyway my fittings are all scratched to shit too. it ain't a show car..
I used AN AEROQUIP on everything on my 1940 Ford. It was very expensive, as you said. The AC hose and fittings cost more than twice that of the Vintage Air system. Some of the AC fittings were hundreds of dollars, each. I bought some must have assembly tools from KOUL TOOLS. The Koul Tool stuff works really well. Another must have tool I added to my tool inventory is the MASTERCOOL hydraulic tube flare system. This is an expensive tool, but it works properly first time every time. I agree with you 100% on using a chrome combination wrench. Another important and good video. Thanks again BTW. Sharpie colours will cover minor scratches.
I want to get he Koul Tool stuff and will start doing that soon. I have the Mastercool flaring tool and I love it, but I don't have the 37 degree portion of the kit yet. I actually almost ordered it after I made this video, ha. Thanks for the comment. I'm glad to hear you like the Koul Tool stuff, I've heard good things but I'm glad to hear more.
Aeroquip has become quite expensive. Earl's is more affordable and their products are more readily available and they are more attractive. PS: Something that I find no one mentions in these AN hose videos is that the hoses should be washed and capped before installation. You never know what could have gotten inside the hoses and fittings and the cutting process creates little metal shards that will eventually find their way into the engine. appliedspeed.com
What rules of thumb are there for the the correct AN size for the application? For example, fuel line vs remote oil cooler lines. Presumably the fuel line would be smaller, maybe an 6 AN or something but what about the oil cooler? 8AN? 10 AN? How much volume is too large for an oil system vs too small?
Generally I base my choices off of factory line sizing. Factory Oil Cooler Lines are generally 1/2" to 5/8" in my experience. So -8/-10. Fuel LInes, Power Steering, and Transmission Cooler lines are generally 3/8" or 5/16" so -6 is a good choice there. But if your system is modified to produce more pressure/flow (Fuel Systems most commonly) then you may need to size up for those needs. Such as -8AN Fuel feeds for higher performance engines. Or -10AN (or -12) for Suction side of a Fuel pump. Contacting the manufacturer of parts you are looking to use would likely be a good way to go. Such as a Fuel Pump manufacturer often (in aftermarket cases) has a recommendation for line sizes for use with their systems. The same will likely apply with Oil Cooler Adapters, Power Steering Setups, Etc. Hope this helps. I don't really have a chart to show this. It might be a good idea for me to compile something like that. Maybe I can work with some manufacturers on that and put it on my website.
Are those hose cutters forged or cast? Are they still cutting braided lines well? How do you guys feel about barbed fittings for transmission cooler lines? Were talking low pressure, around 150psi in reverse. AN fittings are going ro cost more.
My gas tank has two different sized hard lines. One has OD of 1/4 and the other has an OD of 5/16. I want to run -6 AN lines. The only adapters I can find that goes from 1/4 to -6 and 5/16 to -6 are compression fittings?? Am I missing something or are there no tube nuts that convert a 5/16 hardline w/ 37 degree flare to -6 line and 1/4 hardline w/ 37 degree flare to a -6 line?
Can I use an fittings to repair the rack and pinnion hydraulic hard line of a 2007 jeep liberty. They don't make the hard hydralic lines for it and was wondering if I can use a an fitting on new made hydralic line to mate the ends of the cut off orginial ends so to make it work ?
I have a 6AN-M12*1.5 o-ring fitting. It seems if I tighten this up too much and it bottoms out it will squish out the o-ring. For a universal inline electric fuel pump. I've never tightened me up before but it doesn't have a 1/2 round mating groove to accept o-ring...like i would think it should have. Once the o-ring initially touches mating surface, it's only about 2 full turns till its almost squished out. I assumed with any O ring it would have a machine groove in the mating surface so no matter how tight you got it it would only allow so much compression. This is an o-ring going up against the flat part of the fitting on the pump. I hope I made sense and if anyone can help I greatly appreciate it. Thank you for your video
I'm having a nightmare of a time trying to find a way to run a hose from my motorcycle crankcase to a catch can/breather. The barbed fitting is a single barb on the crank case and is vary close to the exhaust would need a bend to keep it away from the heat as I keep blowing through hoses do to melting. On top of that the OD of the crank case fitting is 16.80mm on a micrometer or I call it 17mm even and the OD on the fitting for the canister is 8mm I cant find any way to step a hose down from 17mm ID to 8mm ID. Any help would be much appreciated as I basically just shove the smaller hose down the bigger one and call it a day since I burn through them so often.
just curious, but what would you still use a regular braided rubber line for over PTFE? PTFE is the new goodness for fuel, brake, p/s.. although pricey.. rubber safe for oil lines? also, did you forget a tube nut @ 9:00? another quick tip would be to wrap some tape/teflon around the base of a fitting before threading on the end to make sure it doesn't push the hose out.
Teflon lined hose is very inflexible when compared to standard braided rubber line. Teflon line is superior in many ways but much more difficult to route cleanly. Also it is smaller in outside diameter than Braided so many aftermarket tube clamps (for attaching and organizing hoses) don't fit it. And it looks small so it isn't as aesthetically pleasing. Many people think they got the wrong size the first time they see -6 Teflon lined hose compared to rubber braided. Rubber braided is fine for oil lines as long as it is properly pressure rated (which almost all of them usually are). The only places I use teflon line hose is Hydraulics (steering, brakes, clutches) or AC lines when folks want the braided look. But honestly I moved away from those uses even. Mostly for the difficulty in routing. As for the tube nut, there wasn't one on there for that demonstration. I was just demoing the flare process. Should have probably noted the easy mistake of not putting the nut on but I just chose not to do it cause I didn't need it for the demo.
@@HotRodHippie cool cool.. ya, i figured it may have just been a short demo piece you were making. what do you use for fuel line if not the teflon? i hate the way the push lock/vapor gaurd stuff looks.. Earls makes some flexible stuff.. if you can afford it.. ultrapro is about $10 a foot and ultra flex is about $20 a foot.. they're only rated for 500 and 1000 psi roughly though..
I've primarily been using the Earl's Pro-Lite braided nylon hose lately. They list it lower on their ratings for pump gas but I've had zero issues. Its good looking, softer outside means it's less likely to rub paint off things, and I haven't had any deterioration issues yet. I agree on the looks of the vapor guard. I'll try and check out the Ultra-Pro. If it's close to as flexible as normal braided I'd be glad to try it out.
The AN NTP fittings, the fuel pressure regulator you have on the video is the exact one I have and not sure what fittings I need to convert to AN 6. What size is needed, all new to this
Great vid. Really informative. I’m just starting to use AN lines for the first time, so I’m trying to get as much information before I start the swap out.
I am building a full 3/8 Stainless hard line fuel system (delivery and return) with 316 non ferritic -6 AN fittings for a carburetor to throttle body fuel injection set up. Some of the lines and fittings were gleaned from an HP O2 charging system that uses some kind of 37' slip/press on (?) tapered ferrule, for lack of a better term that serves as the seal between junctions/elbows and tubing. Can you or do you have a video that shows a system with only or mostly AN stainless fittings and lines? I'm learning a lot from your videos. Thank you.
I think I know what you are referring to. I rarely use those type of fittings but I do from time to time. I will see if I have some pieces around to make a video about the topic with.
I usually apply a spot of air tool oil to the threads. There are specific assembly lubes I’ve just never bothered to order. 😬😅 I only do Anti-Seize if using dissimilar metal fittings. So an aluminum fitting onto a steel adapter, I’d use a small spot of A-S. Or when assembling Stainless fittings at all. Stainless on Stainless can gaul, so anti-seize is a must there.
Yes I will be doing AC lines on a project in May or June. 👍👍 When I do AC lines I use Stainless steel tube from Vintage Air and standard Rubber Flex Hose. I would LOVE to be able to use Aluminum tubing but after years of searching I cannot find any way to swage the tubing to attach it to any types of fittings. Aside from $10,000+ shop equipment intended for hydraulic shops.
Great video. I learned some good stuff from this that didn't know about AN fittings. I'm definitely going to look into using AN fittings on my 56 Bel Air project to give a clean look to the fuel system.
Outstanding video again--you're really kind of my favorite "car craft" you tuber. Question--running a new lines from tank using 6an--I am thinking of trying black nylon-stainless threaded line. Any thoughts? I've had some people say it doesn't seal as well---but on a test fitting--seems fine...any advice would be appreciated.
I use the black nylon braided stuff more often these days. It just looks better and is less abrasive so less concerns about it rubbing a painted surface down the road. I’ve had zero issues with it so far but I’ve only been using it for a few years so far. Thank you very much also. 🙏
Omfg @5:10 this awnsered a simple question i been looking for 2 days straight so thank you for detailing this simplest of facts.Unreal how the smallest things give you a headache when you dont know.
Glad to be of help. I VERY often have to work hard to find the smallest but most critical details. It's really annoying sometimes how some things just fly under the radar. Whether they are assumed to be common knowledge or unimportant, it happens far too often.
I've switched from hard line to soft on my brake lines. Will never go back. Cost more but it's worth it. Nicopp line is hands down the best line for brakes period. And it does not give you a spongy pedal.
I've had more leaking fittings on the NiCop stuff than any other material. I find it is just too soft and as such it is easy to improperly flare even with good flaring tools. Also it is so soft it doesn't lend to good looking bends as it is too easy to accidentally reform after your intended bend. To each their own. People are paying me for the look that I can produce with stainless and it's going to last longer than any other option on the market so I will stick with stainless.
Little holes? You mean in the side of the fittings like right next to the hex/wrench flat spots? Those are for the retainer pins. The fittings spin on themselves (Swivel Fittings) with o-rings sealing inside of them. That little hole is where a pin is driven into the fitting to hold the fitting together.
Very nice watching a professional at work! Very informative. I have an aluminum radiator with AN- fittings instead of the normal nipples where the radiator hoses connect. It is a retired NASCAR radiator. I want to plumb it with an AN- fitting and braided hose , but I'm having a hard time finding out what size fitting to use. Any suggestions? I'd guess a 24- AN. Great video.
You'll need to measure the outside diameter of the threads. Here is a chart with size information: toplinemachinery.com/pages/jic-fittings-size-chart -16, -20, and -24 are fairly common radiator sized fittings. And to match their size they are usually pricey.
whats the pressure rating of the actual fittings? i had to use some AN fittings on a project. some sites said no pressure rating on the fittings because hose will blow first. this was hard line compression fitting to AN oil cooler.
The only spec I've been able to find is 1,500psi on aluminum fittings. However as you said the hose would fail long before that, so I can understand why manufacturers don't bother listing that spec. Doesn't really matter when you can set them up with a hose that holds that high.
It depends on the carb you have. Most Dual Feed Holleys use a 7/8"-20 Inlet, so you need an adapter fitting with that size on it. Or you can use a dual rail feed that has the AN fitting on the end. Banjo fittings can be helpful for tight fit applications such as with a Drop Base Air Cleaner, but I cannot find Banjo->AN fittings for 7/8" Holley. There are also 3/4" and 9/16" Holley inlets depending on the carb. Here are links to all of the fittings I just referred to, but I cannot guarantee fit for your situation: *** Dual Feed Line Kit: amzn.to/31DuRHY *** 7/8" Adapter Pair: amzn.to/2Sd8DcV
nice. what about nominal vs actual sizes, specifically the id? and physical sizes of the fittings when considering tight areas? would be interesting to know before shelling out..
Fittings dimensions vary wildly depending on brand or design so I cannot provide that. Hoses measure in 1/16" of an inch though. -1 = 1/16". So -6 hose is 3/8" ID. Hard Line Tubing measure in OD so -6 is 3/8" OD. Just subtract material thickness of the tubing to find the final ID. But the reduced friction of the smooth Hard Line tube inside more than makes up for a loss in ID. Some manufacturers make a point of specially designing their couple fittings and hose ends to maximize flow and minimize neck down points. Again that wildly varies so you'll have to research specific brands to learn more. I'm
Every major AN fitting company produces Hardline ends. They basically consist of two parts: 1) Tube Sleeve 2) Tube Nut (aka B-Nut) I did a video dedicated to some hard line tube bending that features them more. ua-cam.com/video/wayKqBT7z00/v-deo.html If you need more clarification feel free to ask and I will try to help further.
Can you disassmble AN fittings and re-use them? I ordered a custom line for my turbo application, but it is too long. Can I take the AN fitting off, cut the line, and re-use the fitting? Thanks!
I cannot say for certain your line can be, but generally yes you can. I try to avoid it personally since the chances of cross threading a fitting, scarring up the look of them, and damaging the hose increase. All that said, if it is just a standard AN hose assembly, then yes you should be able to dissassemble it, cut it down, and reassemble. Just take your time and make sure it goes smoothly. If it is Teflon lined hose they use a different design that I haven't covered yet. They are more difficult to reuse and may require a replacement ferrule to do so.
@@HotRodHippie Thanks for the quick response. My line isn't teflon lined so I'm going to give it a shot. If it doesn't work I'll have to purchase some hose and additional fittings, but I'll give disassembly a shot first. I appreciate the help. Just suscribed. Keep up the great work!
Last time I did anything like that was when I had to redo the fuel system on a Citroen 2CV. 1/4" fuel hard line for the fuel feed and no clamps on the rubber lines, ha.
@@HotRodHippie my cousin has a 2cv. Great little sardine cans. I'm running a few Ladas in stock configuration....but that'll change, I've got a 1st generation rx7 that's giving up its heart to go into a 1980 Lada sedan. That'll about double the HP and lighten it by about 100 lbs.
Nice video, very helpful. Just curious what you think of push lock hoses? They just push over the barb on the fitting and don't get clamped down. I have never used them, but seems like a bad idea to me. Thanks
Push Lok is quite common in racing applications. I can easily see why it seems like a bad idea but it really isn't. I don't use it simply because it is a pain in the rear. It is VERY difficult to fit into the hoses. It fits so tightly that after you install one hose onto a fitting you figure out how they get away without a clamp. The last time I used it was for the oil lines on my CB750 motorcycle. Never had a single problem with those hoses. A company called Koul Tools makes a press tool to assemble the fittings. If I ever do Push-Lok again I'll buy that tool. Doing it by hand is a nightmare.
Although I definitely applaud your anally retentive nature about lining up both halves of the fitting they weren't designed to line up. I would do the same as you but several years as an Aircraft crew chief on military aircraft has made me become painfully aware of the inspection requirements of assembled hoses. Oh and just a sidenote, aircraft do have "allowable leakage" from fittings and only require replacement if the standard is exceeded or there is enough down time to allow it!
"Allowable Leakage" is a phrase I don't think I ever care to hear. Haha In a lot of ways these fittings are overkill for car uses so I like to make sure they are as close to tight as I can get them with them lined up. Very often I actually end up giving them just a hair more of a tighten to achieve it. Maybe over tight but I've not run into an issue yet. Thanks for the input as someone with experience. 👍👍
That just reminded me of when I worked at a Ford dealership. For Warranty BallJoint failure Ford had an allowable tolerance. But in Pennsylvania the State Inspection failure tolerance was less than the Ford BallJoint tolerance. So your balljoints could be bad enough to fail State Inspection but not be Warranty replaced.
More focus on the actual depth of hose into the line nut as it tends to be a vatlruable often overlooked. There are brand specific details i have discovered. "Russell" vs "Aeroquip" vs "Redhorse" vs "Evil Energy". Evil Energy does not push on it uses a left hand thread to thread nut onto hose jacket. It also features a rounded transition pinch portion. Most companies talk about how to botyom out the hose into the nut but do not illustrate that key feature. "Aeroquip" for example has a steep edge champher in the section some call the cutter area. This is where the cross brand compatibility ceases. Inside they have what appears to be a directional concentric angled rings very one way barb oriented vs threaded. The area of notice is where the hose is considered bottomed out. Perhaps that is why mine started leaking 3 years after install. Or maybe it was a hose material degradation. It was on engine oil at less than 250°. Time to retrofit. I am fond of the "Russell" brand because it is also my name but they may not be the best design vs cost effective. So champher vs rounded, steep angle vs shallow, threaded vs push on nylon btlraided vs steel braided. There is so much engineeri g goes intovan AN design fitting. You shiuld also tuch base onvtge different thread tolerances of AN at 3 vs JIC at 2. Thank goodness thread spec 1 has all but disappeared.
HotRodHippie you’re totally right. I most likely won’t use them for my coolant. That would look really cool though. Probably too hard to adapt my fittings too.
Great video. I learned alot. But I got a question as i'm unclear about it and I'm going to diy install. Any particular size of an for oil cooler? I'm installing an oil cooler with a sandwich adapter and I'm unsure of AN6, AN8 or AN10? I'm installing it on my CFMoto 650nk, its basically a chinese version of a Ninja 650. Thanks a million.
I would say -8 or -10 for oil lines. Last motorcycle I plumbed was a CB750 and I used -8. However most cars I use -10 for oil lines. The last thing you want is a restriction in your oil system. I would look at the ports you are using to plumb your oil cooler. Are they 1/2"NPT ports? If so -8 is 1/2" equivalent and as such likely won't be a restriction for you.
@@HotRodHippie Thanks for the swift reply. I'm sorry I'm a bit of a newbie to DIY and I'm unsure of the terms you're using. However I haven't bought the sandwich adapter nor the oil cooler radiator yet, but the options available is AN8 and AN10 sandwich adapter for the oil filter. And AN6, AN8 and AN10 oil cooler radiator. Since you recommend AN8 for motorcycle I should go for AN8s for both the sandwich adapter and the oil cooler radiators right? And you mention restrictions, what would happen if I installed a AN10s instead? It's bigger hence better flow right? Thanks!
@@munkeemunks I would go with AN8 personally. AN10 would technically have less restriction, but I just think the tubing would look silly on a motorcycle. As it is around 3/4"+ outside diameter. That is almost as large as many frame tubes on a bike. 8AN should flow plenty fine for a motorcycle engine and won't look quite as silly. Though you may like that look, if you think you would AN10 would flow fine. I just thing it may be a "law of diminishing returns" type of thing. Will 10 flow better than 8? Probably, but the percentage more it would flow is probably not that much compared to smaller sizes. Does that make sense?
@@HotRodHippie Omg yes. Now that you mention it. Hahahahha... It will look like a cyborg Picard. XD Yes, it does make sense. Thanks for the insight and explanation good sir. I'll use the AN8 then. Much obliged!
Thanks for the very nice video. I have a 2001 4Runner and I am replacing the transmission cooling lines. I want to go soft tube. Would you know what fitting I need to connect to a metric fitting. The old tube was flare and had an inverted nut. I appreciate any information you could provide.
Hi there, I want to build an aftercooler for a compressor using a condenser, similar to this: ua-cam.com/video/HdvcnKrfMSI/v-deo.html. But I want to use as little copper as possible as I heard copper reacts with the aluminium in the condenser. These fittings look good. Can they handle heat and high air pressure?
Great vid, I changing out my badly rusted out f150 lighting fuel rail. Ford stop making lots of parts. I have to go aftermarket, never used AN fittings before, so your video is very helpful. Thanks.
Great video thank you for sharing. Is it advisable to use 3/16'' Copper nickel tubing with -3AN fittings ? This is specifically for running bulkhead connectors for braking application. Appreciate your advice
With most stock steal/brass/alum./etc. fuel lines you can cut the raised barb off, throw on appropriate sized tube nut, and flare the end, or put a ano-tuff hardline -an fitting on. Turning your crap connection into an actual hardline with a -an end. You can screw on a -an shut off/petcock right to it, making any maintenance super easy and clean. Also makes a great anti theft devise, just turn a lever, and no fuel.
Depends on which lines you are replacing. Most recently I did a couple of LS3 PCV hoses that I replaced with -6(3/8") SS tube. If you have some smaller hoses going to some components of your turbo setup -3 or -4 would probably be fine. (3/16" / 1/4"). I've used those sizes on older vehicles often for vacuum lines. What lines are you needing to replace?
They are 1/4” poly. One (1) melted and I had to fix it while traveling (yes, I daily my 1100rwhp car, LOL) so to avoid a repeat of this type of issue I’m going hard line. Your videos are excellent~! Keep up the great work.
@@scotthodges5214 thank you very much. Then for 1/4" I'd be looking at -4 stainless or aluminum tubing. 👍 Rock on with your daily. Always good when folks actually enjoy their cars.
One of the best and thorough explanations of these I’ve seen. Al from the SkidFactory did a good one but this is way better. Clearly an experienced guide as well. Off to look for some hardline info from you. I subscribed.
Hey, how would I be able to converter my soft fuel line set up on my 96 jeep Cherokee to AN fitting? The factory-style pump has just a hard line with a nipple at the end of it where the soft line just slides over and is secured with a clamp. Also, would it then be possible to get a filter that used an fitting? The current filter is the same slip on set up.
So how would you attach that AN flare on that brake line you did to something? Do they make an AN nut that you put on first before the flare like a normal flare nut? Essentially, how would you attach that to an AN fitting?
It depends on the brake line. Are you referring to the 45 degree double flare that most brake lines have? Or banjo bolts? There are dozens of different brake line fittings on the market so you need to determine what type of fitting you are adapting to. Then locate an adapter that goes to the AN line you need. Or do you mean how to attach a hard line to AN Hose? That’s the 37 degree single flare and a tube sleeve / nut combo that I’m fairly sure I mentioned. I can’t know your applications details to tell you what you need. Even the same brand can use multiple different fittings on the same vehicle.
@@HotRodHippie thanks for the super fast reply! In this video you showed us how to use the 37° flare tool. How would you then attach that line to a male AN fitting? I saw you put the blue collar on, but I don't know what that is, how does that attach to the other half?
@@HotRodHippie nvm, I went back and watched it again, in the video you didn't put the tube nut on, just the sleeve. I understand now *liiiiight bulb* 🤦
Swivel fittings do. Every hose end fitting I should in this video was a swivel fitting. (Except the straight ones.) I personally prefer them. I’ve never had a fitting failure and the ease of plumbing with them is a big pro. There are Swivel and Non-Swivel fittings so just watch out when purchasing.
Do you use AN fittings often? If so what is your most common use case?
6 and 10 ;)
I have never used AN hoses before, I have always used rubber hose. However, I am installing a custom oil cooler (oil to coolant heat exchanger) in my Honda Civic very shortly and that will be my first time. I am going to be making my own 10AN oil lines. I am a bit worried that I am going to mess up since I never made AN lines before, but everyone has to start somewhere and your video was very helpful. Wish me luck LOL!
Best of luck. I would say the biggest rookie mistake is letting the stainless weaving fray when cutting the hose. A lot of people like to wrap the spot they are going to cut with electrical tape or masking tape tightly. That helps prevent fraying. I used to do this but now that I have the hose cutters that I use I don't have any issue with fraying anymore.
@@HotRodHippie That's a great tip, thank you! What is your preference on the material that the lines are made of? I know Teflon is good because it resists extreme heat and chemicals very well and is good for high pressure applications, but I have also heard that it isn't as flexible as standard rubber AN lines? Thanks
@@averyalexander2303 Teflon lined is good for pressure applications but that is the only time I use it. So like Brake lines, Clutch Lines, Power Steering, and AC hoses. It's far less flexible than regular braided so it has to make large sweeping turns, and the fittings don't swivel. So you have to orient your fittings just right when installing them or things won't line up properly. I only use it when I have to at this point. For oil lines you will be fine with standard AN hose.
I personally have been using Russell Pro Classic hose lately. It has a Nylon black weave on the outside. It isn't as strong as regular stainless braided but it's good enough for my applications and has less of a race car look. For the driver/ hot rod cars I'm building that look fits better.
Alan: Great video, thank you! I have been plumbing racers and boats since 1972 when hose and fittings were available from Earl's Surplus. Ya, the stuff was still a Korean war surplus issue. I learned how to plumb cars from the crew at All American Racers in the early 70s. One thing we did was to wash the hoses and cap them until they were ready to be installed. The cutting process can generate some metal shards that can eventually find their way into the engines and such.
Man, to have a fraction of your knowledge on the topic would be incredible. I imagine you pick up a thing or two over the course of 50 years lol
O ring fitting.......ORB is what they’re called.
AN compression fittings - how tight should the components be tightened?
"as long as i use a chrome wrench and im careful i dont tear up these fittings."
>>>proceeds to tear up the shoulder of the red fitting.
lol jk but who fuckin cares anyway my fittings are all scratched to shit too. it ain't a show car..
I used AN AEROQUIP on everything on my 1940 Ford. It was very expensive, as you said. The AC hose and fittings cost more than twice that of the Vintage Air system. Some of the AC fittings were hundreds of dollars, each. I bought some must have assembly tools from KOUL TOOLS. The Koul Tool stuff works really well. Another must have tool I added to my tool inventory is the MASTERCOOL hydraulic tube flare system. This is an expensive tool, but it works properly first time every time.
I agree with you 100% on using a chrome combination wrench. Another important and good video. Thanks again BTW. Sharpie colours will cover minor scratches.
I want to get he Koul Tool stuff and will start doing that soon. I have the Mastercool flaring tool and I love it, but I don't have the 37 degree portion of the kit yet. I actually almost ordered it after I made this video, ha.
Thanks for the comment. I'm glad to hear you like the Koul Tool stuff, I've heard good things but I'm glad to hear more.
Aeroquip has become quite expensive. Earl's is more affordable and their products are more readily available and they are more attractive. PS: Something that I find no one mentions in these AN hose videos is that the hoses should be washed and capped before installation. You never know what could have gotten inside the hoses and fittings and the cutting process creates little metal shards that will eventually find their way into the engine. appliedspeed.com
Nice tutorial. You have taken much of the mystery out of AN systems.
Thank you very much 👍👍
This is the best video on AN that i've seen so far!!! Thanks!!!
Thank you
What rules of thumb are there for the the correct AN size for the application? For example, fuel line vs remote oil cooler lines. Presumably the fuel line would be smaller, maybe an 6 AN or something but what about the oil cooler? 8AN? 10 AN? How much volume is too large for an oil system vs too small?
Generally I base my choices off of factory line sizing. Factory Oil Cooler Lines are generally 1/2" to 5/8" in my experience. So -8/-10. Fuel LInes, Power Steering, and Transmission Cooler lines are generally 3/8" or 5/16" so -6 is a good choice there. But if your system is modified to produce more pressure/flow (Fuel Systems most commonly) then you may need to size up for those needs. Such as -8AN Fuel feeds for higher performance engines. Or -10AN (or -12) for Suction side of a Fuel pump.
Contacting the manufacturer of parts you are looking to use would likely be a good way to go. Such as a Fuel Pump manufacturer often (in aftermarket cases) has a recommendation for line sizes for use with their systems. The same will likely apply with Oil Cooler Adapters, Power Steering Setups, Etc.
Hope this helps. I don't really have a chart to show this. It might be a good idea for me to compile something like that. Maybe I can work with some manufacturers on that and put it on my website.
Are those hose cutters forged or cast? Are they still cutting braided lines well? How do you guys feel about barbed fittings for transmission cooler lines? Were talking low pressure, around 150psi in reverse. AN fittings are going ro cost more.
It’s crazy I found you here. I watch you on tiktok for 3D printing!
You should check out my 3D printing channel, aka the one I'm commenting from now! 😂
Brake lines I stick mostly to 45° double inverted flare. I use AN where it makes sense, custom power steering lines, and some fuel system lines.
Hi bro ... thanks for the great video ... I was wondering if the AN fittings and hoses will compatible with metric equivalent hose sizes?
My gas tank has two different sized hard lines. One has OD of 1/4 and the other has an OD of 5/16. I want to run -6 AN lines. The only adapters I can find that goes from 1/4 to -6 and 5/16 to -6 are compression fittings?? Am I missing something or are there no tube nuts that convert a 5/16 hardline w/ 37 degree flare to -6 line and 1/4 hardline w/ 37 degree flare to a -6 line?
Can I use an fittings to repair the rack and pinnion hydraulic hard line of a 2007 jeep liberty. They don't make the hard hydralic lines for it and was wondering if I can use a an fitting on new made hydralic line to mate the ends of the cut off orginial ends so to make it work ?
I have a 6AN-M12*1.5 o-ring fitting. It seems if I tighten this up too much and it bottoms out it will squish out the o-ring. For a universal inline electric fuel pump. I've never tightened me up before but it doesn't have a 1/2 round mating groove to accept o-ring...like i would think it should have. Once the o-ring initially touches mating surface, it's only about 2 full turns till its almost squished out.
I assumed with any O ring it would have a machine groove in the mating surface so no matter how tight you got it it would only allow so much compression. This is an o-ring going up against the flat part of the fitting on the pump. I hope I made sense and if anyone can help I greatly appreciate it. Thank you for your video
Thanks for posting I'm having fuel problems and changing out stock fuel system and didn't know how to put on my ans fittings. AWESOME post!!👌😎
I'm having a nightmare of a time trying to find a way to run a hose from my motorcycle crankcase to a catch can/breather.
The barbed fitting is a single barb on the crank case and is vary close to the exhaust would need a bend to keep it away from the heat as I keep blowing through hoses do to melting.
On top of that the OD of the crank case fitting is 16.80mm on a micrometer or I call it 17mm even and the OD on the fitting for the canister is 8mm I cant find any way to step a hose down from 17mm ID to 8mm ID.
Any help would be much appreciated as I basically just shove the smaller hose down the bigger one and call it a day since I burn through them so often.
P.S. Your braided hose cutter link is dead: "no longer available".
Thank you. It is hard to keep up with links changing all the time. I'll see about updating it shortly.
Haha, yeah, i'll bookmark something on Amazon, and the next day the link is dead :'(
How to connect PC radiator with Air conditioning refrigerant copper line? It's these small radiators with water hose clamp connections...
just curious, but what would you still use a regular braided rubber line for over PTFE? PTFE is the new goodness for fuel, brake, p/s.. although pricey.. rubber safe for oil lines? also, did you forget a tube nut @ 9:00? another quick tip would be to wrap some tape/teflon around the base of a fitting before threading on the end to make sure it doesn't push the hose out.
Teflon lined hose is very inflexible when compared to standard braided rubber line. Teflon line is superior in many ways but much more difficult to route cleanly. Also it is smaller in outside diameter than Braided so many aftermarket tube clamps (for attaching and organizing hoses) don't fit it. And it looks small so it isn't as aesthetically pleasing. Many people think they got the wrong size the first time they see -6 Teflon lined hose compared to rubber braided.
Rubber braided is fine for oil lines as long as it is properly pressure rated (which almost all of them usually are). The only places I use teflon line hose is Hydraulics (steering, brakes, clutches) or AC lines when folks want the braided look. But honestly I moved away from those uses even. Mostly for the difficulty in routing.
As for the tube nut, there wasn't one on there for that demonstration. I was just demoing the flare process. Should have probably noted the easy mistake of not putting the nut on but I just chose not to do it cause I didn't need it for the demo.
@@HotRodHippie cool cool.. ya, i figured it may have just been a short demo piece you were making. what do you use for fuel line if not the teflon? i hate the way the push lock/vapor gaurd stuff looks.. Earls makes some flexible stuff.. if you can afford it.. ultrapro is about $10 a foot and ultra flex is about $20 a foot.. they're only rated for 500 and 1000 psi roughly though..
I've primarily been using the Earl's Pro-Lite braided nylon hose lately. They list it lower on their ratings for pump gas but I've had zero issues. Its good looking, softer outside means it's less likely to rub paint off things, and I haven't had any deterioration issues yet.
I agree on the looks of the vapor guard. I'll try and check out the Ultra-Pro. If it's close to as flexible as normal braided I'd be glad to try it out.
The AN NTP fittings, the fuel pressure regulator you have on the video is the exact one I have and not sure what fittings I need to convert to AN 6. What size is needed, all new to this
Try the Ridgid 377 flaring tool… you won’t be disappointed bro
This video has helped me to replace a lot of the regular fuel and vacuum lines on my turbo build! thank you!
I’m really glad to hear this could be of help. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Teflon tape is not a sealer.The also have 37 degree crush alumnium washers .
Great vid. Really informative. I’m just starting to use AN lines for the first time, so I’m trying to get as much information before I start the swap out.
Me too.
Is it ok to mate a stainless AN bulkhead to an aluminum AN fitting?
I am building a full 3/8 Stainless hard line fuel system (delivery and return) with 316 non ferritic -6 AN fittings for a carburetor to throttle body fuel injection set up. Some of the lines and fittings were gleaned from an HP O2 charging system that uses some kind of 37' slip/press on (?) tapered ferrule, for lack of a better term that serves as the seal between junctions/elbows and tubing. Can you or do you have a video that shows a system with only or mostly AN stainless fittings and lines? I'm learning a lot from your videos. Thank you.
I think I know what you are referring to. I rarely use those type of fittings but I do from time to time. I will see if I have some pieces around to make a video about the topic with.
Can you a video tell us how too look them up like a power steering for a dsm 4g63 and more please
Is a quick connect transmission cooler line a 37 degree flare ?
Lol I’ve followed you on tictok and this vid randomly started playing.
do you suggest any lubricants or anti-seize when installing onto the treads at final installation?
I usually apply a spot of air tool oil to the threads. There are specific assembly lubes I’ve just never bothered to order. 😬😅
I only do Anti-Seize if using dissimilar metal fittings. So an aluminum fitting onto a steel adapter, I’d use a small spot of A-S. Or when assembling Stainless fittings at all. Stainless on Stainless can gaul, so anti-seize is a must there.
Good Video. I found the editing and pace to be good. Informative and not boring.
Thank you. Glad you liked it.
How tight should female end be for AN fittings?
Thank u I’m getting ready to do my oil cooler fuel lines n steering lines 🤘🏽😎
Glad to be of help. You may find tomorrows video of interest too. It is going to be tips and tricks on bending hard line tubing for those purposes. 👍👍
Can you make a video on making custom AC Hardline.
Is AC hardline special or can I purchase a coil of aluminum pipe.
Thank you
Yes I will be doing AC lines on a project in May or June. 👍👍
When I do AC lines I use Stainless steel tube from Vintage Air and standard Rubber Flex Hose.
I would LOVE to be able to use Aluminum tubing but after years of searching I cannot find any way to swage the tubing to attach it to any types of fittings. Aside from $10,000+ shop equipment intended for hydraulic shops.
Great video. I learned some good stuff from this that didn't know about AN fittings. I'm definitely going to look into using AN fittings on my 56 Bel Air project to give a clean look to the fuel system.
can you please help me with tbss trans line fitting size i need?
You have an excellent way of explaining your info. Thank you for this video.
Outstanding video again--you're really kind of my favorite "car craft" you tuber. Question--running a new lines from tank using 6an--I am thinking of trying black nylon-stainless threaded line. Any thoughts? I've had some people say it doesn't seal as well---but on a test fitting--seems fine...any advice would be appreciated.
I use the black nylon braided stuff more often these days. It just looks better and is less abrasive so less concerns about it rubbing a painted surface down the road. I’ve had zero issues with it so far but I’ve only been using it for a few years so far. Thank you very much also. 🙏
I was just thinking about how do I word this question in the search bar after many attempts this video popped up. Thanks brotha!
Glad this video found you then. Thanks and I hope my videos give you the info you need.
Omfg @5:10 this awnsered a simple question i been looking for 2 days straight so thank you for detailing this simplest of facts.Unreal how the smallest things give you a headache when you dont know.
Glad to be of help. I VERY often have to work hard to find the smallest but most critical details. It's really annoying sometimes how some things just fly under the radar. Whether they are assumed to be common knowledge or unimportant, it happens far too often.
Quick disconnect to an fitting I think that's what I may need for my application??? Thanks!
What is your application? Quick Connects can vary so I don’t want to just show you the most common ones.
great video. I don't see any Hiippies here!
I've switched from hard line to soft on my brake lines. Will never go back. Cost more but it's worth it. Nicopp line is hands down the best line for brakes period. And it does not give you a spongy pedal.
I've had more leaking fittings on the NiCop stuff than any other material. I find it is just too soft and as such it is easy to improperly flare even with good flaring tools. Also it is so soft it doesn't lend to good looking bends as it is too easy to accidentally reform after your intended bend.
To each their own. People are paying me for the look that I can produce with stainless and it's going to last longer than any other option on the market so I will stick with stainless.
Are those tiny holes on the fittings meant for anything? I don’t see anyone ever talk about it
Little holes? You mean in the side of the fittings like right next to the hex/wrench flat spots? Those are for the retainer pins. The fittings spin on themselves (Swivel Fittings) with o-rings sealing inside of them. That little hole is where a pin is driven into the fitting to hold the fitting together.
What tool do you use when the hose pushes out?
Very nice watching a professional at work! Very informative. I have an aluminum radiator with AN- fittings instead of the normal nipples where the radiator hoses connect. It is a retired NASCAR radiator. I want to plumb it with an AN- fitting and braided hose , but I'm having a hard time finding out what size fitting to use. Any suggestions? I'd guess a 24- AN. Great video.
You'll need to measure the outside diameter of the threads. Here is a chart with size information: toplinemachinery.com/pages/jic-fittings-size-chart
-16, -20, and -24 are fairly common radiator sized fittings. And to match their size they are usually pricey.
Great subject. I learned a lot today. Thanks.
wyattoneable I'm glad to hear it, thank you!
When selecting tubing for a -6 project, is it 3/8 ID or OD? TIA.
Outside Diameter 👍
whats the pressure rating of the actual fittings?
i had to use some AN fittings on a project. some sites said no pressure rating on the fittings because hose will blow first.
this was hard line compression fitting to AN oil cooler.
The only spec I've been able to find is 1,500psi on aluminum fittings. However as you said the hose would fail long before that, so I can understand why manufacturers don't bother listing that spec. Doesn't really matter when you can set them up with a hose that holds that high.
I use them on my fuel and power steering. great video 👍
what AN do I use to connect it to a holley carb? should I just uses a banjo?
It depends on the carb you have. Most Dual Feed Holleys use a 7/8"-20 Inlet, so you need an adapter fitting with that size on it. Or you can use a dual rail feed that has the AN fitting on the end. Banjo fittings can be helpful for tight fit applications such as with a Drop Base Air Cleaner, but I cannot find Banjo->AN fittings for 7/8" Holley. There are also 3/4" and 9/16" Holley inlets depending on the carb.
Here are links to all of the fittings I just referred to, but I cannot guarantee fit for your situation:
*** Dual Feed Line Kit: amzn.to/31DuRHY
*** 7/8" Adapter Pair: amzn.to/2Sd8DcV
How do I find conductive fuel line?
So the standard brake flare tool kits you can get from the parts store will not do a 37 degree flare is this correct?
That is correct. Totally different angle (45 degree) on that. Sadly ones that can do stainless tubing at 37 degrees are pricey for the most part.
nice. what about nominal vs actual sizes, specifically the id? and physical sizes of the fittings when considering tight areas? would be interesting to know before shelling out..
Fittings dimensions vary wildly depending on brand or design so I cannot provide that. Hoses measure in 1/16" of an inch though. -1 = 1/16". So -6 hose is 3/8" ID. Hard Line Tubing measure in OD so -6 is 3/8" OD. Just subtract material thickness of the tubing to find the final ID. But the reduced friction of the smooth Hard Line tube inside more than makes up for a loss in ID.
Some manufacturers make a point of specially designing their couple fittings and hose ends to maximize flow and minimize neck down points. Again that wildly varies so you'll have to research specific brands to learn more. I'm
@@HotRodHippie 👌
Where do you source your a/n hardline ends? I'm having a tough time finding them!
Every major AN fitting company produces Hardline ends.
They basically consist of two parts:
1) Tube Sleeve
2) Tube Nut (aka B-Nut)
I did a video dedicated to some hard line tube bending that features them more. ua-cam.com/video/wayKqBT7z00/v-deo.html
If you need more clarification feel free to ask and I will try to help further.
Can the stainless steel braided hose and AN fittings be used for on board air system with load leveling and a train horn?
Absolutely. I use it to plumb air ride suspensions.
Can you disassmble AN fittings and re-use them? I ordered a custom line for my turbo application, but it is too long. Can I take the AN fitting off, cut the line, and re-use the fitting? Thanks!
I cannot say for certain your line can be, but generally yes you can. I try to avoid it personally since the chances of cross threading a fitting, scarring up the look of them, and damaging the hose increase.
All that said, if it is just a standard AN hose assembly, then yes you should be able to dissassemble it, cut it down, and reassemble. Just take your time and make sure it goes smoothly.
If it is Teflon lined hose they use a different design that I haven't covered yet. They are more difficult to reuse and may require a replacement ferrule to do so.
@@HotRodHippie Thanks for the quick response. My line isn't teflon lined so I'm going to give it a shot. If it doesn't work I'll have to purchase some hose and additional fittings, but I'll give disassembly a shot first. I appreciate the help. Just suscribed. Keep up the great work!
On mine, I only have fuel lines and system runs only 3psi. An fittings are just over kill. Good video though.
iambeeman1 I mean in a fan of overkill. But yea that's pretty darn overkill.
Yup, serious overkill. If your rubber is good and tight, you can get away without clamps....not a good idea but doable.
Last time I did anything like that was when I had to redo the fuel system on a Citroen 2CV. 1/4" fuel hard line for the fuel feed and no clamps on the rubber lines, ha.
@@HotRodHippie my cousin has a 2cv. Great little sardine cans. I'm running a few Ladas in stock configuration....but that'll change, I've got a 1st generation rx7 that's giving up its heart to go into a 1980 Lada sedan. That'll about double the HP and lighten it by about 100 lbs.
iambeeman1 a rotary Lada, I dig it.
Nice video, very helpful. Just curious what you think of push lock hoses? They just push over the barb on the fitting and don't get clamped down. I have never used them, but seems like a bad idea to me. Thanks
Push Lok is quite common in racing applications. I can easily see why it seems like a bad idea but it really isn't. I don't use it simply because it is a pain in the rear. It is VERY difficult to fit into the hoses. It fits so tightly that after you install one hose onto a fitting you figure out how they get away without a clamp. The last time I used it was for the oil lines on my CB750 motorcycle. Never had a single problem with those hoses. A company called Koul Tools makes a press tool to assemble the fittings. If I ever do Push-Lok again I'll buy that tool. Doing it by hand is a nightmare.
@@HotRodHippie Thanks, sounds like more trouble than it's worth then.
Dope video. New sub👍🏽
Thank you and thank you for subscribing
Although I definitely applaud your anally retentive nature about lining up both halves of the fitting they weren't designed to line up. I would do the same as you but several years as an Aircraft crew chief on military aircraft has made me become painfully aware of the inspection requirements of assembled hoses. Oh and just a sidenote, aircraft do have "allowable leakage" from fittings and only require replacement if the standard is exceeded or there is enough down time to allow it!
"Allowable Leakage" is a phrase I don't think I ever care to hear. Haha
In a lot of ways these fittings are overkill for car uses so I like to make sure they are as close to tight as I can get them with them lined up. Very often I actually end up giving them just a hair more of a tighten to achieve it. Maybe over tight but I've not run into an issue yet.
Thanks for the input as someone with experience. 👍👍
That just reminded me of when I worked at a Ford dealership. For Warranty BallJoint failure Ford had an allowable tolerance. But in Pennsylvania the State Inspection failure tolerance was less than the Ford BallJoint tolerance. So your balljoints could be bad enough to fail State Inspection but not be Warranty replaced.
this guy is awesome. great for diy help very clear and to the point
Much appreciated and I’m glad you liked it. 👍🏻
gotta link for vazleen?
More focus on the actual depth of hose into the line nut as it tends to be a vatlruable often overlooked. There are brand specific details i have discovered. "Russell" vs "Aeroquip" vs "Redhorse" vs "Evil Energy". Evil Energy does not push on it uses a left hand thread to thread nut onto hose jacket. It also features a rounded transition pinch portion. Most companies talk about how to botyom out the hose into the nut but do not illustrate that key feature. "Aeroquip" for example has a steep edge champher in the section some call the cutter area. This is where the cross brand compatibility ceases. Inside they have what appears to be a directional concentric angled rings very one way barb oriented vs threaded. The area of notice is where the hose is considered bottomed out. Perhaps that is why mine started leaking 3 years after install. Or maybe it was a hose material degradation. It was on engine oil at less than 250°. Time to retrofit. I am fond of the "Russell" brand because it is also my name but they may not be the best design vs cost effective. So champher vs rounded, steep angle vs shallow, threaded vs push on nylon btlraided vs steel braided. There is so much engineeri g goes intovan AN design fitting. You shiuld also tuch base onvtge different thread tolerances of AN at 3 vs JIC at 2. Thank goodness thread spec 1 has all but disappeared.
This helps a lot. I’m thinking of going with A/N fittings for my projects fuel fittings. Maybe my coolant and oil coolers if I can get away with it.
Large enough hose and fittings for coolant are pricy as heck but sure do look good.
HotRodHippie you’re totally right. I most likely won’t use them for my coolant. That would look really cool though. Probably too hard to adapt my fittings too.
Great video. I learned alot. But I got a question as i'm unclear about it and I'm going to diy install.
Any particular size of an for oil cooler? I'm installing an oil cooler with a sandwich adapter and I'm unsure of AN6, AN8 or AN10?
I'm installing it on my CFMoto 650nk, its basically a chinese version of a Ninja 650.
Thanks a million.
I would say -8 or -10 for oil lines. Last motorcycle I plumbed was a CB750 and I used -8. However most cars I use -10 for oil lines. The last thing you want is a restriction in your oil system.
I would look at the ports you are using to plumb your oil cooler. Are they 1/2"NPT ports? If so -8 is 1/2" equivalent and as such likely won't be a restriction for you.
@@HotRodHippie
Thanks for the swift reply.
I'm sorry I'm a bit of a newbie to DIY and I'm unsure of the terms you're using.
However I haven't bought the sandwich adapter nor the oil cooler radiator yet, but the options available is AN8 and AN10 sandwich adapter for the oil filter.
And AN6, AN8 and AN10 oil cooler radiator.
Since you recommend AN8 for motorcycle I should go for AN8s for both the sandwich adapter and the oil cooler radiators right?
And you mention restrictions, what would happen if I installed a AN10s instead? It's bigger hence better flow right?
Thanks!
@@munkeemunks I would go with AN8 personally. AN10 would technically have less restriction, but I just think the tubing would look silly on a motorcycle. As it is around 3/4"+ outside diameter. That is almost as large as many frame tubes on a bike. 8AN should flow plenty fine for a motorcycle engine and won't look quite as silly.
Though you may like that look, if you think you would AN10 would flow fine. I just thing it may be a "law of diminishing returns" type of thing. Will 10 flow better than 8? Probably, but the percentage more it would flow is probably not that much compared to smaller sizes. Does that make sense?
@@HotRodHippie
Omg yes. Now that you mention it. Hahahahha...
It will look like a cyborg Picard. XD
Yes, it does make sense. Thanks for the insight and explanation good sir. I'll use the AN8 then.
Much obliged!
Thank you for the video 👍
Huge thanks! 👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks for the very nice video. I have a 2001 4Runner and I am replacing the transmission cooling lines. I want to go soft tube. Would you know what fitting I need to connect to a metric fitting. The old tube was flare and had an inverted nut. I appreciate any information you could provide.
Hi there, I want to build an aftercooler for a compressor using a condenser, similar to this: ua-cam.com/video/HdvcnKrfMSI/v-deo.html. But I want to use as little copper as possible as I heard copper reacts with the aluminium in the condenser. These fittings look good. Can they handle heat and high air pressure?
Some of my Best education Yet !!!! Thank you , John
Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching and commenting. 👍👍
Great vid, I changing out my badly rusted out f150 lighting fuel rail. Ford stop making lots of parts. I have to go aftermarket, never used AN fittings before, so your video is very helpful.
Thanks.
Great video thank you for sharing. Is it advisable to use 3/16'' Copper nickel tubing with -3AN fittings ? This is specifically for running bulkhead connectors for braking application. Appreciate your advice
With most stock steal/brass/alum./etc. fuel lines you can cut the raised barb off, throw on appropriate sized tube nut, and flare the end, or put a ano-tuff hardline -an fitting on. Turning your crap connection into an actual hardline with a -an end. You can screw on a -an shut off/petcock right to it, making any maintenance super easy and clean. Also makes a great anti theft devise, just turn a lever, and no fuel.
I have a Twin Turbo Cadillac CTS-V with a vacuum leak. I think I will hard line it. What size line and fittings do you recommend?
Depends on which lines you are replacing. Most recently I did a couple of LS3 PCV hoses that I replaced with -6(3/8") SS tube. If you have some smaller hoses going to some components of your turbo setup -3 or -4 would probably be fine. (3/16" / 1/4"). I've used those sizes on older vehicles often for vacuum lines. What lines are you needing to replace?
They are 1/4” poly. One (1) melted and I had to fix it while traveling (yes, I daily my 1100rwhp car, LOL) so to avoid a repeat of this type of issue I’m going hard line. Your videos are excellent~! Keep up the great work.
@@scotthodges5214 thank you very much. Then for 1/4" I'd be looking at -4 stainless or aluminum tubing. 👍 Rock on with your daily. Always good when folks actually enjoy their cars.
One of the best and thorough explanations of these I’ve seen. Al from the SkidFactory did a good one but this is way better. Clearly an experienced guide as well. Off to look for some hardline info from you. I subscribed.
I’m about to replace all the lines in my 2015 Silverado with high end stainless and braided lines and hoses. ALL OF THEM. Hope she looks good!
Hey, how would I be able to converter my soft fuel line set up on my 96 jeep Cherokee to AN fitting? The factory-style pump has just a hard line with a nipple at the end of it where the soft line just slides over and is secured with a clamp.
Also, would it then be possible to get a filter that used an fitting? The current filter is the same slip on set up.
@HotRodHippie are you related to Charles from #HumbleMechanic ? You sound, act, and look very similar.
Great content ! You have a great way of teaching and explaing basics of AN fittings and hardline systems . Thank you .
Fantastic video! Good info and delivery!
Glad you liked it! Thank you
Amazing. Informative. Great video
Thank you very much
Thanks. I'm thinking of installing a oil cooling system on my motorcycle because it seems to struggle after awhile
You are the man
So how would you attach that AN flare on that brake line you did to something? Do they make an AN nut that you put on first before the flare like a normal flare nut?
Essentially, how would you attach that to an AN fitting?
It depends on the brake line. Are you referring to the 45 degree double flare that most brake lines have? Or banjo bolts? There are dozens of different brake line fittings on the market so you need to determine what type of fitting you are adapting to. Then locate an adapter that goes to the AN line you need. Or do you mean how to attach a hard line to AN Hose? That’s the 37 degree single flare and a tube sleeve / nut combo that I’m fairly sure I mentioned.
I can’t know your applications details to tell you what you need. Even the same brand can use multiple different fittings on the same vehicle.
@@HotRodHippie thanks for the super fast reply! In this video you showed us how to use the 37° flare tool. How would you then attach that line to a male AN fitting? I saw you put the blue collar on, but I don't know what that is, how does that attach to the other half?
@@HotRodHippie nvm, I went back and watched it again, in the video you didn't put the tube nut on, just the sleeve. I understand now *liiiiight bulb* 🤦
@@mjminino Yea, my mistake, not helpful for folks learning. IN this video I did break lines on a build: ua-cam.com/video/TBEDVi_e3qg/v-deo.html
Thanks for the video. I needed to know how to fit two AN fittings together for a fuel line project.
sweet tatz dawg
Great video, very informative. I dont use AN fittings but I'm starting too now that my race cars are evolving. I learned quite a but here. Thanks
Thank you
Great Video. Very clean work..
Appreciated, thanks
on your hose cutters, remove the metal stop , it allows -10 & -12 hose to fit
Good tips thanks
That was good & explained very clearly.
Thanks😊
Thank you I want to learn more how do we find the size to make the hole engine with an fitting
Nice
heard some of the cheaper fittings are not built that well (shocker)
Do some of them pivot or rotate while tight?
Swivel fittings do. Every hose end fitting I should in this video was a swivel fitting. (Except the straight ones.) I personally prefer them. I’ve never had a fitting failure and the ease of plumbing with them is a big pro. There are Swivel and Non-Swivel fittings so just watch out when purchasing.
what about the version without a shoulder on the outer nut, how far does the hose go in?
Da Os I am not familiar with what you are talking about. Or at least not understanding from that description. Sorry.
@@HotRodHippie no worries, thanks for the reply.