Jason. Thank You! This UA-cam is priceless. You could be a Professional Teacher as you explain enough for understanding and clarity but don't go on and on just to prove how much you know. You show us just how to do it. I am so thankful I found this UA-cam of yours.
Awesome! Thank you for the compliments! Sometimes I get told I talk to much,but I like to explain things the best I can. I could go on and on,but realize I'll lose people's attention. Unfortunately this day in age people just want a quick answer and nothing else.
This is a great video that should be used as an example by some other UA-cam channels on how to film, edit and narrate a repair job. Everything covered in the right amount of detail. Great job.
Thanks Tom I appreciate the compliment. I try to give the most amount of info in my videos especially things to look out for common things that can happen. Some people complain I talk too much. 😆 I guess you can't please everyone.
This is a great informative and detailed video about the rebuilding process of the Sherman transmission. It’s awesome they still make many parts to rebuild them like new. It brings back memories when I rebuilt my Silver King tractor’s transmission. I had to make all my detents, balls, springs, and shafts. That was a fun process. I liked all your sneaky backgrounds throughout the video too. I can’t wait for the spring season so you can show off more of your collection and projects. Keep the videos coming, love your content! 🤟
This has been the best information I have been able to find for the Sherman combination transmission I obtained for my 8N recently. I wanted to make sure the Sherman is in spec and rebuild it if required before putting it in the tractor. This video solves that problem for me. Thanks!
Glad it helped. There isn't much video information online that's why I wanted to do it. If you didn't see my other video about installing it you'll want to check it out.
Yeah there is a lot going on. It always amazes me haw small the parts are. No matter if it's new or old equipment it's amazing how well things hold up.
Jason, I watched this about a week ago, was going to comment, and got side tracked.... Great video! I have one of these in my 2N and I think it's in need of a rebuild. Thanks for sharing your process. It makes it much less daunting! Great work!
This video is excellent information for the project im going to undertake next winter. Fitting a Hupp dual drive gearbox into my 1955 Ferguson Tea20 that is. Thanks for sharing this with us!
Awesome Job Jason!!! I Was Concerned about how you were going to deal with the Hardened Shaft and then you pulled a Rabbit Out Of The Hat!!!! Excellent!!! Wish I had one of those on old Henry!!! Sure would make pulling in low gear better!!! Looking Forward To Seeing It Installed!!! Keep Rocking It Out Brother!!!
Thanks Pat!! Yeah I'm no machinest,but every now and then I can pull something off. 😆 It's going to be fun installing this and even more more fun test driving it!! Stay tuned!
I just got a 52 8n yesterday for $270 +$130 for fuel to make the long trip to my excitement upon seeing the left side it has this combo handle by looking at the foot peddle s brake n clutch no wear the draw bars aren't beat up hymen joints are tight steering is tight unfortunately engin is stuck she's getting a full rebuild I hope to put it in creeping gear and leave it there many thanks for your videos
That's awesome!! It's so hard to find any old tractor these days that are not worn-out. I leave my Sherman in Standard drive. Only use High to go down the road in 4th. To me the regular gearing is fine other then reverse. Even with the Sherman in low it still doesn't slow it down enough. The Sherman is a good conversation piece, but I'd never invest in another one again.
Thanks Jason. I think I may need to renew the seals and gaskets. But when i do I will check the other stuff that yoy point out. Im pretty sure the overal condition of my Sherman is good other than leaking oil. Thanks.
I hope so!! This particular one in the video I had to do more to it actually. I ended up having a new counter shaft made. After further inspection there was some minimal flat spots developing that I didn't like. Also the brand new shaft was garbage and I went back with the old one. It's a couple thousands worn too much and growls a little when in high range and in neutral, but for what I'm going to use it for it will be ok. I spent way too much on this project. Never again. If it annoys me too much some day I'll take it out.
😆 Honesty I wouldn't do another one unless it was in the tractor already. To buy one,restore it, and install it is pretty expensive adventure with very little gain in my opinion. I left out a couple things in the video to save time but I ended up having a new counter shaft made and heat treated. That cost more then the transmission did. Also in my other video when I put it in I found out the the brand new output shaft wasn't working good. Went past the point of returning it. Another 200 bucks down the drain. 😆 Even if I get another tractor with one already installed if it isn't perfect I'd remove it. To me they still don't slow them down enough.
@@Jason1Pa well, I do appreciate your honest opinions. I know my 8N moves too quickly for the work I do around here and slowing the speed would be an ideal thing. Thank you for the great job and showing it the way you did
@@knuckle47 I appreciate the compliments. Just to give you a idea of low range and in reverse the tractor is only slowing down 1 mph (going by GPS) even at idle. It's hardly noticeable. Now going in high down the road is a big difference you are almost double your speed. This particular tractor maxes out at 22 mph. Feels life 40 though. 😆
Hi Jason I really appreciate your video I learned a lot and I am looking forward to seeing your installation video but I was wondering what kind of grease you were using was it assembly lube or just regular all season grease from a grease gun cartridge? Thanks Jason keep them coming!
Just regular old grease from a cartridge. Lucas Red and Tacky. Assembly lube doesn't have a lot of stick to it. I only used some grease just to keep the bearings and such in place. They like to flop out if not.
Damn, were you a Ford tractor mechanic in a past life. Is that something I could add to my 52 8N? Reverse is such a high ratio and its part of why I dont use for plowing snow in my driveway. Gotta love sockets for press tool, they are my go to as well. Im telling you, aside from checkered flooring and plain gray paint on all the walls this was like an episode of Horsepower TV!
😆 No past life here. I've just read,studied,and messed with Ford's my whole life even at a young age. Yes this particular transmission would fit in yours. And it's funny you mentioned about the reverse gear because that is pretty much the main reason I'm putting this in the 8N. Reverse is pretty much useless If you can't gear it down. Then the extra road gear is a added bonus. I can't wait to get it in and try it.
On a Ford jubilee with the hydraulically operated pinion clutch for live pto, can you remove that clutch unit by removing the rockshaft housing, or do you have to split the tractor?
I've never personally worked on the optional live pto but I do believe you'd need to take the top cover off then split the tractor I'm half at the back of the transmission and rear end.
Jason I have another question that I hope you can help me with . I put the top cover back together and high/low side will shift but I can't shift it into conventional range . i don't even have the detent ball or spring in that side . The dog point screws both look good and the shift interlock pin is in good shape . Any suggestions ?
Try it without the interlock pin once. It still may be getting hung up. If nothing is bent there wouldn't be anything holding it up other then the pin.
Fantastic video! Is there a source for oil slingers? I wasn't able to find one when I started my Combo rebuild. It's just been sitting apart for years now waiting for me to get back to it.
I've personally never done it,but I've heard of others do it. However I would expect if they are that worn I'd bet all the other important parts are worn-out beyond repair. Like the output shaft and counter shaft. At that point I'd call the whole thing junk
Would you have a part # for that input shaft you got, When I called them they said they didn't have any. Maybe the parts guy wasn't aware of what they had. Thanks and great job with the video.
If you watch my installation video I could not use that new shaft. I was upset. The gears (teeth) did not mesh well at all. It was very rough sounding even just by turning it by hand. Long story short there have been multiple times these shafts have been made wrong. I went with the old one even though it was a hair worn more then I like.
dumb question to ask but i love to shift gears, and Id love to use as many gears for towing heavy as I'd like, Im planning on using an rto-610 (or 6610 which is the same as a 610 except the 6"6"10 designation indicates that the way the teeth are cut or the "pitch" is different, meaning it has a helical cut on a particular set of gears for little to no noise.) on my project f250 "Super" 10 that I'll be naming 'er "emily", a forest green truck with a dana 60 rear axle. And she's in great condition. The question: If for whatever reason I can't get my hands on an rto-610, could I instead get my hands on a Sherman Combo aux transmission and adapt it to an NP435 transmission and use that as my "brownie" box?
The Sherman transmission is designed for 25-30 input horsepower, and survives in that use quite well. Is the installation you are suggesting for a higher horsepower motor? If so, you probably want to look elsewhere.
I have a friend that has a combination Sherman in a 2n. When it is shifted into low range or high range the tractor moves fine but makes a knocking noise. When you shift it for the regular tractor gears its quiet, and the tractor moves fine. Any thoughts?
I would guess excessive ware on the input shaft. Does it make the knocking noise when in high or low with your foot off the clutch and tractor transmission in neutral? Or only when tractor is in motion?
Hi Jason I’m having trouble with my Sherman like the one to rebuilt, it came already installed on my 8n the area where the Allen set screw on the upper housing I removed and there is no 5/16” hard rolled pin. What was the length of the the new one made? What mine is doing is locking up I’m able to play with it to unlock until now it wouldn’t go in or out of gear the shift handle wouldn’t budge, I had to push into garage to remove the Sherman transmission. Let me know thanks Rick
Rick unfortunately I did not measure it. What I did was pulled the two shifting rails out far enough to expose the groove on each rail where the pin get pushed back and forth and eyeballed it then rounded the ends off. It doesn't really need to be a precise length. Actually a little short would be better then too much. Place one end of the rod in the groove and have the other end on the smooth part of shaft on the opposite side. Make sure there is some wiggle room. This pin keeps the transmission from going into two gears. And by the sound of it is exactly what is happening to you. One shifting fork is engaging the "Standard" gear and the other fork is engaging high or low range. I'd suggest testing the pin by removing the detent balls and springs. It's much easier to shift and listen to the pin moving back and forth. If one fork is forward grab the other one and try to move it. It shouldn't.
Thanks Jason, that’s what I did, seems to be working, I planning on installing the Sherman shortly hopefully it’ll work. By the way your videos are very detailed thanks for the reply.
Google "N Tractor Club Sherman Combonation Transmission Rebuild " It's a great article that's 43 pages long. Scroll all the way to the bottom and it gives you part numbers for all the parts. I'd recommend getting a kit it's actually cheaper then buying individual parts if you need a good bit.
Simply look at the input shaft of the Sherman and count the splines. For a N series and NAA /Jubilee you need 10 splines to fit. If it is 15 splines it won't. Those are for the newer 100 series tractors.
@@Jason1Pa just to clarify. It has 10 spline input. The man I got it from said it came off a 9n with a 3 speed. And mine is a golden jubilee with a 4 speed. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge!
@jessieharris8204 OK sounds good!! Are you sure it is a combo transmission with Standard, High, and Low? They will fit a 9N,but it's not as common to have those in a 9N or 2N simply they were not available at the time when the 9N/2Ns were being produced. If it is a combo it just means someone put it in that 9N way later in life. If the shifting lever is curved like the one in the video then you for sure have a combo. If the lever is straight you have a step up transmission.
@Jason1Pa I'm not home to double check. But I might have my son make a video of it and send it. I think it's freedom eagle TV is the channel name. Thank you again!
No. I actually had one made for this one locally. Halfway way though the video I noticed a slight flat spot on the shaft. I left it out of the video. It was a expensive adventure because it needs to be heat treated and all. I would never do it again. Those shafts need to be perfectly round or those needle bearings won't last long.
Yes there is a "Standard" which is using your tractor transmission gear ratios then you have a high and low. I'll send you a link to my other video explaining it.
Go to the 20:20 minute mark and I explain about the pin you are probably having a issue with. If you go farther in the video you will see me make a new one. They can not be bought.
Hi Jason I bought a ford 1821. It has the same Sherman transmission. I rebuilt the motor and now time for the transmission. I jacked up the tractor to test the transmission. When the Sherman is in neutral the standard 4 gears are not working. When the Sherman is in high or low the wheels turn. I thought it would have 12 gears. 4 low 4 standard 4high. I removed the Sherman and will go through it and rebuild it. My question is should it have 12 gears? Also I messaged you recently and you told me what you soaked the Sherman in to clean it. Was it mineral spirits? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Hi Mike!! Sounds like your not finding the "Standard" position with the lever. When you're say it's in neutral the lever should pull away from the tractor a hair then pull it back. When in this position the Standard gear ratios will be in effect. In my other video of the installation I believe I showed the shifting pattern. It kind of takes some practice. Yes I use mineral spirits and brake clean to clean with. Anything with paint on it that you want to keep don't use brake clean it may take it off. Mineral spirits works well and doesn't damage paint. Plus it is fairly cheap and doesn't seem as toxic as some cleaners. I'd still wear gloves though. I get both mineral spirits and brake clean at Wal-Mart they seem to be the cheapest. Hope this helps. *update* At 26:16 in this video I show how it shifts to get 12 speeds. ua-cam.com/video/0raEGuIkSqY/v-deo.html
@@Jason1Pa I watched the video. I neglected to pull it back when in neutral. I still will take apart and rebuild. The shifter was very sloppy. Also clutch components need replacement. Thanks for your help. Have a great day!!
Hi Jason. I took apart and cleaned in mineral spirits the entire Sherman transmission. Wow it is spotless. I didn’t buy the rebuild kit yet .All the parts look good. There is a lot of movement in the cluster gears where the thrust washers are. I probably should have 1or two washers made. Also there is a lot of movement in the drive shaft sliding in and out. Did you have that movement on the drive shaft? Normal? If not normal did the rebuild kit take care of that in and out movement? Thanks for all your advice.
@Michael Bourque Are you referring the input shaft or output shaft as the drive shaft? The input shaft (that goes into the clutch/flywheel) shouldn't move. The output (the gear that meshes with the tractors transmission gear) will have movement but once you bolt it all up it is held together. Yes you don't want to much slop in the bottom cluster gears. Will put a lot of stress on the teeth cause it wants to float around.
They are exactly the same as the ones used in the tractors main transmission. I had some used ones. If you can't find used ones you could make them ,but that can get kind of expensive.
If you post a Wanted Add somewhere like Yesterday's Tractors, Old Iron Garage Smok Stak ,etc you will find one. Facebook Ford Groups are very helpful as well. There are thousands out there HOWEVER I would not buy one unless I was able to inspect it myself. There are a lot of junk ones being sold as "Good" and they are far from it. This particular one was in ok shape but still cost a fortune to fix. I personally would never invest money in another one to rebuild.
@@Jason1Pa I picked up one with good gears and dogs. Can you tell me the bearing mfg and numbers on the countershaft and input bearings tho please? Trying to see if sourcing the individual parts is cheaper than the $180 kit from Just 8Ns. The trans I have has been dicked with using the wrong (ie caged) needle bearings in the past and its no wonder they failed. Actually using needle bearings in this way is an engineering design mistake, but thats another discussion. Google hits on the bearing numbers using Torrington 1412 and 1616 are the wrong bearings. Thanks for any info!
@@maniagokm3186 I'm pretty sure it's more economical to buy the kit. I can guarantee you won't be able to find everything local then by the time you pay for shipping and all you'll be way over. The big front bearing on the input shaft is very expensive alone I've noticed. However if you Google Rebuilding a Sherman Combo Transmission you'll find a 42 page instructional article. If your scroll all the way down you'll find all the individual part numbers. I left out the fact that I did get another counter shaft made. I wasn't 100% happy with the old one. The problem is a lot of the ware on that shaft only happens right at the very top of it where the needle bearings ride. It may look ok but good chance it's not when you really measure it from several different ways. If any of the cages are loose chances are the shaft is bad. Hope this helps.
@@Jason1Pa Thanks yes, I picked up on those Hyatt numbers, and have found the cross reference numbs as well now. Each of those bearings are about $10 a piece, so apart from having the gaskets, which I ought to be able to get separately anyway, even with shipping its about half cost. And if you know your way around bearing sizings vs part numbers, its just more leg work than anything. Thanks again!
Sorry Francis that I didn't get back to you sooner. I saw your post on Yesterday's Tractor and it jogged my memory. I looked back on the video and can't believe I didn't show popping it. I mention it at 19:39 and show how to do it in the video but you don't actually see it pop out. Just tap on the shaft or put it in the a press and drive the shaft threw as if your taking it out and the cap pops right out. Then at 26:39 you can see me put it back in with a small hammer.
@@Jason1Pa Yes thanks. I have another question . When you reinstall the detent balls do both of the balls sit in the first groove ? Also you can find alot of these parts at Arthurs Tractor .
@@francisalvini617 I think they are in the first groove but they will find there way once you put them in. Arthur's has used parts and the chances of finding perfect used parts is pretty hard anymore. Plus I've dealt with Arthur's a few times. Never answers phone or returns calls. Says he will go look for a part but never hear from him. Kind of expensive too. It's a shame they ain't that far from me. Wish he could be more reliable. He's got a big body shop and seems to tend to that more. That's been my experience anyhow.
Do you ever rebuild Sherman step up step down transmission for other people I have one that needs rebuilt I would feel more comfortable with you doing it
@JeffSmallwood-p8i I do not. Sadly some of the key components are not available. For example the counter shaft in this particular one I later found out was worn too much to my liking so I had a local company make me one and heat treat it. That alone was 400 dollars. They are a very expensive adventure and most people would not pay or wait for someone to scrounge up parts. Even with all the work and expenses put in to this one it growls too much for my liking. If you watch my other video of me installing it into the tractor we found out that the brand new shafts teeth on the gears was not meshing well with the tractors gears so I went with the original shaft. Finding a original shaft that meets the specs would be difficult. Most of the tractors you see are pretty well beat up and so are the Sherman's. I personally would not feel comfortable rebuilding one for someone.
I wouldn’t mind trying it myself but like that pin that you made I took my plug out and mine is either broken and down under that rod or it’s just plain missing and I do not have anything to go by, also I can’t shift it that’s why I think it’s under the rod, also the main gear the one that goes in the transmission has a lot of play I can actually pull it out enough to see the bearing I may be better off parting it out
@@JeffSmallwood-p8i That is normal for the gear to come out like that. It's held in place when it's bolted together in the tractor. Finding the proper amount of shims will adjust the back and forth moments just right.
Any ideas on that pin I honestly think I could rebuild this if I know what size to make this thing, also I never saw on the video of how to start taking those two shift rods out
@JeffSmallwood-p8i The pin is 5/16 hardened steel. As far as the length I don't remember I just took a little but off here and there until it fit to my liking. It doesn't need to be real precise. As far as those rods once the detent balls/springs are removed and the set screws of the forks are removed they should slide right out.
In other videos I have I've shown people if they don't have a press just grab a small propane torch. Heat up the center of the bearing for a few seconds and it will pop on. No need to Heat in oil or worry about a freezer. I prefer just to press them on. Simple and fast.
This likely wasn’t your intent with this video (very well presented by the way) but…..I was looking at a ford 8N with a Sherman transmission in it, but after watching this video, I have decided to steer clear of it.
Probably a smart move. If you watched my other video of the installation I ran into some other issues. I didn't add in this video I actually decided to have another counter shaft made and heat treated. This was a expensive adventure.
@@Tinkerbell227 It was worn below specs. When it's sitting in there the very top part of the shaft gets worn then the sides and the bottom of the shaft especially the end that is closest to the input that. If the shaft is not 100% round it puts a lot stress on those needle bearings. They will growl at you when in operation. If you ever take one of these apart and the needle bearings fall out of its carrier you instantly know the shaft is junk.
Jason. Thank You! This UA-cam is priceless. You could be a Professional Teacher as you explain enough for understanding and clarity but don't go on and on just to prove how much you know. You show us just how to do it. I am so thankful I found this UA-cam of yours.
Awesome! Thank you for the compliments! Sometimes I get told I talk to much,but I like to explain things the best I can. I could go on and on,but realize I'll lose people's attention. Unfortunately this day in age people just want a quick answer and nothing else.
This is a great video that should be used as an example by some other UA-cam channels on how to film, edit and narrate a repair job. Everything covered in the right amount of detail. Great job.
Thanks Tom I appreciate the compliment. I try to give the most amount of info in my videos especially things to look out for common things that can happen. Some people complain I talk too much. 😆 I guess you can't please everyone.
Excellent video on the Sherman rebuilding process. Thanks for producing the video, Jason.
Thanks!! Thanks for watching!!
Great video, and a guide for others on how to make videos of transmission overhauls!
Thanks for your kind words John !!!
This is a great informative and detailed video about the rebuilding process of the Sherman transmission. It’s awesome they still make many parts to rebuild them like new. It brings back memories when I rebuilt my Silver King tractor’s transmission. I had to make all my detents, balls, springs, and shafts. That was a fun process. I liked all your sneaky backgrounds throughout the video too. I can’t wait for the spring season so you can show off more of your collection and projects. Keep the videos coming, love your content! 🤟
Thanks Brendan!! I can't wait for warmer weather either!! Can't wait to see some more Silver King updates as well.
@@Jason1Pa Look at the trend of views! I can tell this video will be pretty popular.
@@ctyankeejr Hoping! 😆 I shared it a lot on social media. I didn't realize that the comments were turned off until a few hours ago. 😕 Got it fixed.
This has been the best information I have been able to find for the Sherman combination transmission I obtained for my 8N recently. I wanted to make sure the Sherman is in spec and rebuild it if required before putting it in the tractor. This video solves that problem for me. Thanks!
Glad it helped. There isn't much video information online that's why I wanted to do it. If you didn't see my other video about installing it you'll want to check it out.
As usual, great job. Always appreciate your comprehensive videos.
Thank you Sir!! I appreciate it. I posted the installation video of this a few days ago if you arn't aware.
It's amazing how many pieces fit in that little case 😂 Great informative video!
Yeah there is a lot going on. It always amazes me haw small the parts are. No matter if it's new or old equipment it's amazing how well things hold up.
Glad to see you continue with this very helpful information.
Thanks Stephen!! Thanks for checking in all this year's 😃
Very important information...well done. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and skills. A well done, easy to follow video.
Thanks Ron 👍
Jason, I watched this about a week ago, was going to comment, and got side tracked.... Great video! I have one of these in my 2N and I think it's in need of a rebuild. Thanks for sharing your process. It makes it much less daunting! Great work!
Awesome! Are you sure it's a combination Sherman or a Step up Sherman in your 2N? It's more common to have the Step Up version in the 9N/2N
@@Jason1Pa mine is a combo - 3 ranges
@@TractorHoarders Good deal !!
This video is excellent information for the project im going to undertake next winter. Fitting a Hupp dual drive gearbox into my 1955 Ferguson Tea20 that is. Thanks for sharing this with us!
Kenny I'm sorry I didn't see your comment until now for some reason. Thanks for watching and your Hupp project sounds really fun! Best of luck!
Awesome Job Jason!!! I Was Concerned about how you were going to deal with the Hardened Shaft and then you pulled a Rabbit Out Of The Hat!!!! Excellent!!!
Wish I had one of those on old Henry!!! Sure would make pulling in low gear better!!! Looking Forward To Seeing It Installed!!!
Keep Rocking It Out Brother!!!
Thanks Pat!! Yeah I'm no machinest,but every now and then I can pull something off. 😆
It's going to be fun installing this and even more more fun test driving it!! Stay tuned!
I just got a 52 8n yesterday for $270 +$130 for fuel to make the long trip to my excitement upon seeing the left side it has this combo handle by looking at the foot peddle s brake n clutch no wear the draw bars aren't beat up hymen joints are tight steering is tight unfortunately engin is stuck she's getting a full rebuild I hope to put it in creeping gear and leave it there many thanks for your videos
That's awesome!! It's so hard to find any old tractor these days that are not worn-out.
I leave my Sherman in Standard drive. Only use High to go down the road in 4th. To me the regular gearing is fine other then reverse. Even with the Sherman in low it still doesn't slow it down enough. The Sherman is a good conversation piece, but I'd never invest in another one again.
Thanks Jason. I think I may need to renew the seals and gaskets. But when i do I will check the other stuff that yoy point out. Im pretty sure the overal condition of my Sherman is good other than leaking oil. Thanks.
I hope so!! This particular one in the video I had to do more to it actually. I ended up having a new counter shaft made. After further inspection there was some minimal flat spots developing that I didn't like. Also the brand new shaft was garbage and I went back with the old one. It's a couple thousands worn too much and growls a little when in high range and in neutral, but for what I'm going to use it for it will be ok. I spent way too much on this project. Never again. If it annoys me too much some day I'll take it out.
Love the Sherman's! A little fast in low gear but not bad. Step up is amazing🤣 faster than an atv...
It's so nice to be able to go faster down the road but even nicer to slow down the fast reverse on a 8N.
@@Jason1Pa exactly! I wish they still had Sherman's in newer tractors.😥
Jason, you’ve got me hooked…. I may start looking for a Sherman transmission for my 8N
😆 Honesty I wouldn't do another one unless it was in the tractor already. To buy one,restore it, and install it is pretty expensive adventure with very little gain in my opinion. I left out a couple things in the video to save time but I ended up having a new counter shaft made and heat treated. That cost more then the transmission did. Also in my other video when I put it in I found out the the brand new output shaft wasn't working good. Went past the point of returning it. Another 200 bucks down the drain. 😆 Even if I get another tractor with one already installed if it isn't perfect I'd remove it. To me they still don't slow them down enough.
@@Jason1Pa well, I do appreciate your honest opinions. I know my 8N moves too quickly for the work I do around here and slowing the speed would be an ideal thing. Thank you for the great job and showing it the way you did
@@knuckle47 I appreciate the compliments. Just to give you a idea of low range and in reverse the tractor is only slowing down 1 mph (going by GPS) even at idle. It's hardly noticeable. Now going in high down the road is a big difference you are almost double your speed. This particular tractor maxes out at 22 mph. Feels life 40 though. 😆
Reminds me of my Dad working on the family Plymouth station wagon back in the day.
It's amazing how memories are made when wrenching on stuff.
Hi Jason I really appreciate your video I learned a lot and I am looking forward to seeing your installation video but I was wondering what kind of grease you were using was it assembly lube or just regular all season grease from a grease gun cartridge? Thanks Jason keep them coming!
Just regular old grease from a cartridge. Lucas Red and Tacky. Assembly lube doesn't have a lot of stick to it. I only used some grease just to keep the bearings and such in place. They like to flop out if not.
Damn, were you a Ford tractor mechanic in a past life. Is that something I could add to my 52 8N? Reverse is such a high ratio and its part of why I dont use for plowing snow in my driveway. Gotta love sockets for press tool, they are my go to as well. Im telling you, aside from checkered flooring and plain gray paint on all the walls this was like an episode of Horsepower TV!
😆 No past life here. I've just read,studied,and messed with Ford's my whole life even at a young age.
Yes this particular transmission would fit in yours. And it's funny you mentioned about the reverse gear because that is pretty much the main reason I'm putting this in the 8N. Reverse is pretty much useless If you can't gear it down. Then the extra road gear is a added bonus. I can't wait to get it in and try it.
@@Jason1Pa Im really curious to see how it goes in, cant wait!
That is one fine set of bearing/seal press pucks. Where do I get a set of those for my press?
Harbor Freight has them.
On a Ford jubilee with the hydraulically operated pinion clutch for live pto, can you remove that clutch unit by removing the rockshaft housing, or do you have to split the tractor?
I've never personally worked on the optional live pto but I do believe you'd need to take the top cover off then split the tractor I'm half at the back of the transmission and rear end.
Jason I have another question that I hope you can help me with . I put the top cover back together and high/low side will shift but I can't shift it into conventional range . i don't even have the detent ball or spring in that side . The dog point screws both look good and the shift interlock pin is in good shape . Any suggestions ?
Try it without the interlock pin once. It still may be getting hung up. If nothing is bent there wouldn't be anything holding it up other then the pin.
@@Jason1Pa Thanks again
Fantastic video! Is there a source for oil slingers? I wasn't able to find one when I started my Combo rebuild. It's just been sitting apart for years now waiting for me to get back to it.
To my knowledge NO I've never seen new ones. Should be really easy to make one though.
Could you/can you build up worn shift forks with weld and then grind back down to original dimension(s) at those wear points you showed us?
I've personally never done it,but I've heard of others do it. However I would expect if they are that worn I'd bet all the other important parts are worn-out beyond repair. Like the output shaft and counter shaft. At that point I'd call the whole thing junk
how long is the 5/16 hardened rod that you ground down the ends . bullet shaped. it keeps the sherman from going into 2 gears.
I don't recall. I just kind of whittled it until it fit properly.
Would you have a part # for that input shaft you got, When I called them they said they didn't have any. Maybe the parts guy wasn't aware of what they had. Thanks and great job with the video.
If you watch my installation video I could not use that new shaft. I was upset. The gears (teeth) did not mesh well at all. It was very rough sounding even just by turning it by hand. Long story short there have been multiple times these shafts have been made wrong. I went with the old one even though it was a hair worn more then I like.
dumb question to ask but i love to shift gears, and Id love to use as many gears for towing heavy as I'd like, Im planning on using an rto-610 (or 6610 which is the same as a 610 except the 6"6"10 designation indicates that the way the teeth are cut or the "pitch" is different, meaning it has a helical cut on a particular set of gears for little to no noise.) on my project f250 "Super" 10 that I'll be naming 'er "emily", a forest green truck with a dana 60 rear axle. And she's in great condition.
The question: If for whatever reason I can't get my hands on an rto-610, could I instead get my hands on a Sherman Combo aux transmission and adapt it to an NP435 transmission and use that as my "brownie" box?
I honestly have no idea,but many things can be made to work if you have the skill and patience to make it happen
The Sherman transmission is designed for 25-30 input horsepower, and survives in that use quite well. Is the installation you are suggesting for a higher horsepower motor? If so, you probably want to look elsewhere.
I have a friend that has a combination Sherman in a 2n. When it is shifted into low range or high range the tractor moves fine but makes a knocking noise. When you shift it for the regular tractor gears its quiet, and the tractor moves fine. Any thoughts?
I would guess excessive ware on the input shaft. Does it make the knocking noise when in high or low with your foot off the clutch and tractor transmission in neutral? Or only when tractor is in motion?
Awesome video Sir, Question do you sell rebuilt Sherman transmissions for 8n or 641, let me know, thks
Thanks Scott! No I don't sell any sorry.
Hi Jason I’m having trouble with my Sherman like the one to rebuilt, it came already installed on my 8n the area where the Allen set screw on the upper housing I removed and there is no 5/16” hard rolled pin. What was the length of the the new one made? What mine is doing is locking up I’m able to play with it to unlock until now it wouldn’t go in or out of gear the shift handle wouldn’t budge, I had to push into garage to remove the Sherman transmission. Let me know thanks Rick
Rick unfortunately I did not measure it. What I did was pulled the two shifting rails out far enough to expose the groove on each rail where the pin get pushed back and forth and eyeballed it then rounded the ends off. It doesn't really need to be a precise length. Actually a little short would be better then too much. Place one end of the rod in the groove and have the other end on the smooth part of shaft on the opposite side. Make sure there is some wiggle room. This pin keeps the transmission from going into two gears. And by the sound of it is exactly what is happening to you. One shifting fork is engaging the "Standard" gear and the other fork is engaging high or low range. I'd suggest testing the pin by removing the detent balls and springs. It's much easier to shift and listen to the pin moving back and forth. If one fork is forward grab the other one and try to move it. It shouldn't.
Thanks Jason, that’s what I did, seems to be working, I planning on installing the Sherman shortly hopefully it’ll work. By the way your videos are very detailed thanks for the reply.
Do you have the number for the seal and the front bearing. I’m gonna rebuild mine and would like those numbers to get the parts before hand thanks
Google "N Tractor Club Sherman Combonation Transmission Rebuild " It's a great article that's 43 pages long. Scroll all the way to the bottom and it gives you part numbers for all the parts. I'd recommend getting a kit it's actually cheaper then buying individual parts if you need a good bit.
Thanks for the reply and the information really like both your videos lotta information thank you
@@sf-vk6ui Thank you and thanks for watching!
I hear that you know my buddy Ron from Texas
Hi Lawrence! Sorry I didn't reply sooner but I just noticed your comment. Ol Ron talks about you often. Thanks for stopping in.
I have a jubilee. I purchased a step up/ down. How do I make sure it's correct for my tractor? Hate to split it if it's incorrect.
Simply look at the input shaft of the Sherman and count the splines. For a N series and NAA /Jubilee you need 10 splines to fit. If it is 15 splines it won't. Those are for the newer 100 series tractors.
@@Jason1Pa just to clarify. It has 10 spline input. The man I got it from said it came off a 9n with a 3 speed. And mine is a golden jubilee with a 4 speed. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge!
@jessieharris8204 OK sounds good!! Are you sure it is a combo transmission with Standard, High, and Low? They will fit a 9N,but it's not as common to have those in a 9N or 2N simply they were not available at the time when the 9N/2Ns were being produced. If it is a combo it just means someone put it in that 9N way later in life. If the shifting lever is curved like the one in the video then you for sure have a combo. If the lever is straight you have a step up transmission.
@Jason1Pa I'm not home to double check. But I might have my son make a video of it and send it. I think it's freedom eagle TV is the channel name. Thank you again!
Jason, or anyone watching. Any idea where I could find a replacement countershaft?
No. I actually had one made for this one locally. Halfway way though the video I noticed a slight flat spot on the shaft. I left it out of the video. It was a expensive adventure because it needs to be heat treated and all. I would never do it again. Those shafts need to be perfectly round or those needle bearings won't last long.
Good day from Ontario. So is there 3 ranges, h & l & your tractor range? Thanks
Yes there is a "Standard" which is using your tractor transmission gear ratios then you have a high and low. I'll send you a link to my other video explaining it.
Go to the 26:20 minute mark in this video for a explanation.
ua-cam.com/video/0raEGuIkSqY/v-deo.html
@@Jason1Pa Good day Boy I did watch rest of it. I wonder how much that would have cost new? I did sub & rung beii. Thanks
I've got a sherman combo transmission when taking the top off ot doesn't want to shift even when it's off the transmission what's the problem? Thanks
Go to the 20:20 minute mark and I explain about the pin you are probably having a issue with. If you go farther in the video you will see me make a new one. They can not be bought.
Hi Jason
I bought a ford 1821. It has the same Sherman transmission. I rebuilt the motor and now time for the transmission.
I jacked up the tractor to test the transmission. When the Sherman is in neutral the standard 4 gears are not working. When the Sherman is in high or low the wheels turn. I thought it would have 12 gears. 4 low 4 standard 4high.
I removed the Sherman and will go through it and rebuild it.
My question is should it have 12 gears?
Also I messaged you recently and you told me what you soaked the Sherman in to clean it. Was it mineral spirits?
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Hi Mike!! Sounds like your not finding the "Standard" position with the lever. When you're say it's in neutral the lever should pull away from the tractor a hair then pull it back. When in this position the Standard gear ratios will be in effect. In my other video of the installation I believe I showed the shifting pattern. It kind of takes some practice.
Yes I use mineral spirits and brake clean to clean with. Anything with paint on it that you want to keep don't use brake clean it may take it off. Mineral spirits works well and doesn't damage paint. Plus it is fairly cheap and doesn't seem as toxic as some cleaners. I'd still wear gloves though. I get both mineral spirits and brake clean at Wal-Mart they seem to be the cheapest. Hope this helps.
*update*
At 26:16 in this video I show how it shifts to get 12 speeds.
ua-cam.com/video/0raEGuIkSqY/v-deo.html
@@Jason1Pa I watched the video. I neglected to pull it back when in neutral. I still will take apart and rebuild. The shifter was very sloppy. Also clutch components need replacement.
Thanks for your help. Have a great day!!
Hi Jason. I took apart and cleaned in mineral spirits the entire Sherman transmission. Wow it is spotless.
I didn’t buy the rebuild kit yet .All the parts look good. There is a lot of movement in the cluster gears where the thrust washers are. I probably should have 1or two washers made.
Also there is a lot of movement in the drive shaft sliding in and out. Did you have that movement on the drive shaft? Normal? If not normal did the rebuild kit take care of that in and out movement? Thanks for all your advice.
@Michael Bourque Are you referring the input shaft or output shaft as the drive shaft? The input shaft (that goes into the clutch/flywheel) shouldn't move. The output (the gear that meshes with the tractors transmission gear) will have movement but once you bolt it all up it is held together. Yes you don't want to much slop in the bottom cluster gears. Will put a lot of stress on the teeth cause it wants to float around.
@@Jason1Pa yes it is the gear that meshes up with the transmission. I will then focus on the cluster gears. New thrust washers. Thanks
Where do you find the shims for this transmission?
They are exactly the same as the ones used in the tractors main transmission. I had some used ones. If you can't find used ones you could make them ,but that can get kind of expensive.
Will one of those fit a ford 600
There are ones for them. This particular one in the video would not work because the splines on the input shaft are different for the 600.
I’ve looked high and low for a combo Sherman for my 1948 8N with no luck. Anyone have any suggestions or recommendations for attaining one. Thanks
If you post a Wanted Add somewhere like Yesterday's Tractors, Old Iron Garage Smok Stak ,etc you will find one. Facebook Ford Groups are very helpful as well. There are thousands out there HOWEVER I would not buy one unless I was able to inspect it myself. There are a lot of junk ones being sold as "Good" and they are far from it. This particular one was in ok shape but still cost a fortune to fix. I personally would never invest money in another one to rebuild.
@@Jason1Pa thank you for the advice and I appreciate your videos.
Im looking for a lever sherman combo with good gears and dogs for my 48 8N if you know of one - I can rebuild the rest also.
Sorry don't know of any. They are all pretty beat up by now. Be careful when purchasing one. There are somethings that can not be repaired.
@@Jason1Pa I picked up one with good gears and dogs. Can you tell me the bearing mfg and numbers on the countershaft and input bearings tho please? Trying to see if sourcing the individual parts is cheaper than the $180 kit from Just 8Ns. The trans I have has been dicked with using the wrong (ie caged) needle bearings in the past and its no wonder they failed. Actually using needle bearings in this way is an engineering design mistake, but thats another discussion. Google hits on the bearing numbers using Torrington 1412 and 1616 are the wrong bearings. Thanks for any info!
@@maniagokm3186 I'm pretty sure it's more economical to buy the kit. I can guarantee you won't be able to find everything local then by the time you pay for shipping and all you'll be way over. The big front bearing on the input shaft is very expensive alone I've noticed. However if you Google Rebuilding a Sherman Combo Transmission you'll find a 42 page instructional article. If your scroll all the way down you'll find all the individual part numbers.
I left out the fact that I did get another counter shaft made. I wasn't 100% happy with the old one. The problem is a lot of the ware on that shaft only happens right at the very top of it where the needle bearings ride. It may look ok but good chance it's not when you really measure it from several different ways. If any of the cages are loose chances are the shaft is bad.
Hope this helps.
@@Jason1Pa Thanks yes, I picked up on those Hyatt numbers, and have found the cross reference numbs as well now. Each of those bearings are about $10 a piece, so apart from having the gaskets, which I ought to be able to get separately anyway, even with shipping its about half cost. And if you know your way around bearing sizings vs part numbers, its just more leg work than anything. Thanks again!
@@maniagokm3186 Sounds good! Good luck
How do you remove and reinstall the welsh plugs ?
Sorry Francis that I didn't get back to you sooner. I saw your post on Yesterday's Tractor and it jogged my memory. I looked back on the video and can't believe I didn't show popping it. I mention it at 19:39 and show how to do it in the video but you don't actually see it pop out. Just tap on the shaft or put it in the a press and drive the shaft threw as if your taking it out and the cap pops right out. Then at 26:39 you can see me put it back in with a small hammer.
@@Jason1Pa Yes thanks. I have another question . When you reinstall the detent balls do both of the balls sit in the first groove ? Also you can find alot of these parts at Arthurs Tractor .
@@francisalvini617 I think they are in the first groove but they will find there way once you put them in.
Arthur's has used parts and the chances of finding perfect used parts is pretty hard anymore. Plus I've dealt with Arthur's a few times. Never answers phone or returns calls. Says he will go look for a part but never hear from him. Kind of expensive too. It's a shame they ain't that far from me. Wish he could be more reliable. He's got a big body shop and seems to tend to that more. That's been my experience anyhow.
@@Jason1Pa Thanks for your help !
@@francisalvini617 Anytime
Do you ever rebuild Sherman step up step down transmission for other people I have one that needs rebuilt I would feel more comfortable with you doing it
@JeffSmallwood-p8i I do not. Sadly some of the key components are not available. For example the counter shaft in this particular one I later found out was worn too much to my liking so I had a local company make me one and heat treat it. That alone was 400 dollars. They are a very expensive adventure and most people would not pay or wait for someone to scrounge up parts. Even with all the work and expenses put in to this one it growls too much for my liking. If you watch my other video of me installing it into the tractor we found out that the brand new shafts teeth on the gears was not meshing well with the tractors gears so I went with the original shaft. Finding a original shaft that meets the specs would be difficult. Most of the tractors you see are pretty well beat up and so are the Sherman's. I personally would not feel comfortable rebuilding one for someone.
I wouldn’t mind trying it myself but like that pin that you made I took my plug out and mine is either broken and down under that rod or it’s just plain missing and I do not have anything to go by, also I can’t shift it that’s why I think it’s under the rod, also the main gear the one that goes in the transmission has a lot of play I can actually pull it out enough to see the bearing I may be better off parting it out
@@JeffSmallwood-p8i That is normal for the gear to come out like that. It's held in place when it's bolted together in the tractor. Finding the proper amount of shims will adjust the back and forth moments just right.
Any ideas on that pin I honestly think I could rebuild this if I know what size to make this thing, also I never saw on the video of how to start taking those two shift rods out
@JeffSmallwood-p8i The pin is 5/16 hardened steel. As far as the length I don't remember I just took a little but off here and there until it fit to my liking. It doesn't need to be real precise.
As far as those rods once the detent balls/springs are removed and the set screws of the forks are removed they should slide right out.
Heat the Bering in hot oil ,cool shaft in fridge ., will slip on
In other videos I have I've shown people if they don't have a press just grab a small propane torch. Heat up the center of the bearing for a few seconds and it will pop on. No need to Heat in oil or worry about a freezer. I prefer just to press them on. Simple and fast.
This likely wasn’t your intent with this video (very well presented by the way) but…..I was looking at a ford 8N with a Sherman transmission in it, but after watching this video, I have decided to steer clear of it.
Probably a smart move. If you watched my other video of the installation I ran into some other issues.
I didn't add in this video I actually decided to have another counter shaft made and heat treated. This was a expensive adventure.
@@Jason1Pa Why a new counter shaft?
@@Tinkerbell227 It was worn below specs. When it's sitting in there the very top part of the shaft gets worn then the sides and the bottom of the shaft especially the end that is closest to the input that. If the shaft is not 100% round it puts a lot stress on those needle bearings. They will growl at you when in operation. If you ever take one of these apart and the needle bearings fall out of its carrier you instantly know the shaft is junk.
@@Jason1Pa So you aren't taking about the counter shaft gears. You are talking about that pressed in rod the counter shaft gears ride on?
@@Tinkerbell227 correct