Had that chain tensioner stick into the block on a motor that sat 19 years. Had to pull the distributor and oil pump. then climbed up and down with a big screwdriver as I popped it in and out until it began to travel freely. It was really stuck
The distributor timing is mechanical as well. Once set correctly, it will not change unless you have points and they wear, which changes your dwell angle. Reset the points correctly and you don't have to adjust the dizzy. I don't mind being contradicted...I typically learn from it, but that was pretty weak......try again :)
My understanding is that the timing on L Motors is optimal for top end power. Retarding it moves the powerband up so high that it is above the usable RPM range. On the other hand advancing timing on a stock L motor yields more low end which can improve your hole shot at the cost of top end power. At any point, did you look at the notch in the gear and compare it to the mark on the cam tower to make sure you were starting your modifications from the right reference point?
MY1PATH I'm sorry, but quite honestly, I don't remember the details. I actually shot this vid quite awhile before I put it up on youtube....which was about 2.5years ago. The vid is probably at least 5yrs old....I haven't had that car for almost 5yrs. lol I knew all the reasoning at the time, but I can't recall at this point. The adjustment is to account for a stretched chain. There was a book....How to race a datsun....or something like that. It explained why. I think I was doing it to troubleshoot a really bad backfiring problem with the engine. It had the problem when I got it and I had no clue what had been done to the motor....only that a previous owner did some work do it. I did check all the references before I moved it the first time....which I didn't film. You may be exactly right with your info. Again....sorry I can't remember the details. Someone on Ratsun.net can probably tell you why. BTW.....Jonas...your climbing son...amazing!! lol Does he still climb as much? Thanks!! Mike
Douglas Feldman......I got a comment from you, but it doesn't come up anywhere now. Maybe you already found the timing chain wedge. If not it's on my site ...here.... www.bluehandsinc.com/l-series-timing-chain-tension-retainer.html .....or there's a link to a photobucket pic of it....address is in the info box above.
follow the book!! ... there is no point in trying to change the mechanical timing... you should be trying to adjust the distributor if you want to tweek on something...
Had that chain tensioner stick into the block on a motor that sat 19 years. Had to pull the distributor and oil pump. then climbed up and down with a big screwdriver as I popped it in and out until it began to travel freely. It was really stuck
I don't think they were meant to stay in there for 19yrs! lol I'll be that was a lot of work! Glad to hear you got it out. :)
@@bluehandsvideo Pulling the dist. and pump provides great working access and line of sight.. It was easier than pulling the cover, by far. LOL.
@@johnwick-ii6il I'm sure. Pulling that cover is never fun. lol
The distributor timing is mechanical as well. Once set correctly, it will not change unless you have points and they wear, which changes your dwell angle. Reset the points correctly and you don't have to adjust the dizzy.
I don't mind being contradicted...I typically learn from it, but that was pretty weak......try again :)
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My understanding is that the timing on L Motors is optimal for top end power. Retarding it moves the powerband up so high that it is above the usable RPM range.
On the other hand advancing timing on a stock L motor yields more low end which can improve your hole shot at the cost of top end power.
At any point, did you look at the notch in the gear and compare it to the mark on the cam tower to make sure you were starting your modifications from the right reference point?
MY1PATH I'm sorry, but quite honestly, I don't remember the details. I actually shot this vid quite awhile before I put it up on youtube....which was about 2.5years ago. The vid is probably at least 5yrs old....I haven't had that car for almost 5yrs. lol I knew all the reasoning at the time, but I can't recall at this point. The adjustment is to account for a stretched chain. There was a book....How to race a datsun....or something like that. It explained why. I think I was doing it to troubleshoot a really bad backfiring problem with the engine. It had the problem when I got it and I had no clue what had been done to the motor....only that a previous owner did some work do it.
I did check all the references before I moved it the first time....which I didn't film. You may be exactly right with your info. Again....sorry I can't remember the details. Someone on Ratsun.net can probably tell you why.
BTW.....Jonas...your climbing son...amazing!! lol Does he still climb as much?
Thanks!!
Mike
Douglas Feldman......I got a comment from you, but it doesn't come up anywhere now. Maybe you already found the timing chain wedge. If not it's on my site ...here.... www.bluehandsinc.com/l-series-timing-chain-tension-retainer.html .....or there's a link to a photobucket pic of it....address is in the info box above.
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I'm a little confused ,do you move the gear sproket or chain ? I need to do mine plz advise thx
You don't want the crank to move so you do not move the chain. You walk the sprocket inside the chain, then turn the cam to line up with the sprocket
do you have any L series cars or trucks anymore?
Two 521s with L16's.
en español
No
follow the book!! ... there is no point in trying to change the mechanical timing... you should be trying to adjust the distributor if you want to tweek on something...
calholli super late reply but as he stated those degrees are in there to compensate for chain stretch
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