It is a fine balance to figuring out what should be kept stock standard and what to upgrade. Love how you share all your good and bad experiences. We all have them.
Nice to have updates along the way. Helpful for fellows like us. Your bad experiences and researches makes it easier for us when looking for solutions 👍
Forgot to mention that the MGB I owned back in the 60’s had very little problems even though I drove it like a eighteen year old that I was. That says a lot about English engineering.
I recently ran into this issue on my 1999 130. (Summertime) It was definitely just a clogged thermo. A good radiator flush and thermo change did great! The basics of diesel engines never change I think. Thank You for the videos!
Cheers for the info. Love the channel for the information provided and watching you guys touring around the place. We have a 2013 Defender 130 2.2 with remap. We had a larger intercooler fitted when the remap was done. We are heavy and tow camper trailer always. Engine would occasionaly derate with turbo actuator fault, due to heat we think?? We would consistently see coolant temps of up to 102-106 degrees Celsius going uphill's with ambient temperatures of 35 degrees or more. The 130 would sit on 94-97 degrees consistently on level roads. We changed the thermostat that you guys suggested, didn't add spacer. Temps started lower at around 88 degrees as expected but still climbed when going uphill. Highest we had was 112 degrees on a 45 degree day. We always had to keep an eye on coolant temps and drive accordingly. Backing off on the throttle as the temps started to increase. We have just put a PWR radiator into the 130, 3 months ago and the difference is noticeable. Temps sit at 87 degrees consistently, where 94-97 would have been common. Highest we have seen is 97 degrees on a 35 degree day on the same hill we would seen 105 degrees previously. The larger PWR radiator has made a big difference in my opinion. The thermostat and intercooler would be helping to I would say. As a side note we never have overheated the engine on coolant temp causing it to derate. Been close but!!
We're heavy but dont tow so your situation is different and sharing this will certainly help other viewers that might have a similar setup as you have. Good to know the radiator mod did help and monitoring while driving is also a must I think.
I recently had some overheating on my TD5 on hills on long motorway journeys, turned out to be the viscous van. No issue on the flat but as soon as you got to a hill the fan wasn’t working properly so the engine was overheating. The fan would turn fine at idle but you have to test it by trying to stop the fan with a bunched rag, if you can stop it then your viscous coupling is shot and the fan needs replacing. Britannica Restorations have a very good video talking about viscous fans. First thing to check in overheating defenders is the viscous fan.
Great advice, thank you. Can you advise what scan tool you show? I'm in Australia where very hot temps are not unusual but not found a good scan tool to stick on the dash of my 90 (which is my daily driver). Thanks, Jerry
I’ve never had the opportunity to own a Land Rover of any kind. I did have an old 60’s Plymouth and spent a lot of money on it’s over heating problem because of the folks at the parts store. Finally I ran into an old timer that told me too leave the radiator cap loose. Couldn’t believe it actually worked!
I'm guessing that with the spacer, the weight of the fan is further away from the bearing & causing a torque on the bearing that it wasn't designed for. If you find you still need the spacer (if the cooling issue comes back), you may need to find a more heavy duty bearing. Been loving your videos ever since I found your channel to feed my Landy addiction. (Though my knowledge was more 300tdi & TD5.)
Fans are generally irrelevant at speed, they only make a difference when crawling or stationary. Changing to a lower thermostat isn't a good idea either as the engine will run cooler when not at high loads. Ideally you want it to run at the same temperature all the time, so the clearances of everything remain the same, reducing wear. Assuming there's no other issue causing overheating, it would be better to address this by increasing the capacity of the radiator. Also (I learned this the expensive way) strongly recommend having additional temperature sensors for the oil, block, exhaust, along with an audible alarm. If you lose coolant suddenly for some reason the coolant temp sensor will not work, so you need the other channels to notify you of the problem ASAP.
Yip Agree. In South Africa there is a company who make the MadMan EMS... currently its at EMS3. monitors everything from coolant level to gearbox and transfer case oil temp and EGT etc
Seems right, we will certainly also add other sensor such as EGT. As our weight most often remains the same as the setup we have stays as it is even during our everyday life, the thermostat that runs cooler goes well.
If you have a press you can just replace the bearing not the whole casting. Had the same issue (no spacer just old) have a spacer and thermostat (needed when I see temps very regularly over 30 deg C.
The extended fan spacer probably caused the bearing failure, fan further out, more leverage on the bearing, bin it and put electric fans on. Move your spot lights, they are restricting air flow into the radiator grill, compounded by the winch front bumper you have fitted blocking air flow, low speed pulling with less flow through will cause overheating, check that the fins on the radiator are not blocked with mud blocking flow through the core. The remap will most likely run higher boost, compressing air heats it which is why you have an intercooler, fit a bigger intercooler to increase cooling, if the intake manifold is running hotter it will raise combustion temps and in turn engine temps, consider a bigger exhaust, more power means more exhaust gas, if its not flowing properly it will back up heat in the engine. You may also want to upgrade your oil cooler, oil traps heat in the engine which is why oil coolers are fitted. When you remap an ecu people don't realise that you have to upgrade alot of other things to cope with the extra hp, clutches, gearboxes, prop shafts, drive shafts, diffs, suspension components and even wheel bearings all have to cope with the extra stresses involved, usually results in lower service life for parts concerned, your fan bearing is an example of this. Hope this helps!!!!!!
It'll certainly help, thanks for sharing. And yes when modifying to a remap as much as modifying to a camper setup or a lift, some other mods and maybe more maintenances are required
Thank you for another great video. I too had a "spacer" for the viscous fan on my 90 2.4. I just went to find it from my old spares pile and have it in my hand. Mine was bought by a "land rover mechanic" from a "land rover parts Company" Its made out of aluminum seems bigger than yours, and I had a different issue. Measuring in it now (excluding threads) edge to edge it measures 60mm, how big was yours? Mine, positioned the fan very close to the radiator and during a very steep obstacle that went up and down and up. The fan managed to hit my radiator and made holes in it. There was a "whipping" action from the up and down (it was very steep :). We patched the radiator with Pratley weld putty to get home, luckily, we were not too far from home. But as you say, this was on advice from the "experts" to bring the fan closer to the radiator, for better cooling. In conclusion there are probably some mods that are good, but I'm afraid not all are. I wish I had read an honest review like yours or mine prior to making the change.
That was a really bad experience and glad you were able to make it home with temporary fix. Yours was much longer, as ours was 2.5cm without threads. Yes we always need to keep in mind mods aren't especially beneficial and need to question them if another problem occurs.
I have a 2009 TDCi the same as yours with a remap. Same overheating problem. Agree can be bloody dangerous! I have replaced the thermostat that operates at a lower temperature also. Vehicle runs fine on its own fully loaded, but when you tow a loaded trailer up a decent hill it will happen again. i didnt bother with the fan spacer and am now going down the uprated intercooler track.
I also have overheating issues since my tuning sometimes when going uphill. Mainly in Summer, but also had them in Winter too...mounted the Fan-Spacer you had, but still the same Problem 😏
Do I get it right? The temp normally is between 78 and 88 C° , on average 82°C? What is the max temp you reached on hill climbing fully loaded or digging through soft sand? Can you read the oil temp as well? What brand and model is the OBD dongel, guess BT connected the mobile app, pls? Perhaps, I upgrade my 2.4 TDCi Transit Puma in my Camping Car (2008) , which runs still fine, after replacing head gasket at 4TSD km ( now 110TKM). Our 109 S3 (1984), 200TDi swap, runs hot under load, but this may be due to the TD5 intercooler in front of the radiator, which is the oil-water combined one. Ventilation is done by a Kenlowe 2-stage sucker.
Puma engine will stop at 117 C, we avoid going up to 100 C which is already very hot. You can still overheat if driving up hill in 6th and fully loaded, staying in 5th gear can help. OBD is cheap one from Amazon and app is Torque Pro but we now mainly use nanocom to monitor while driving.
Hi. Your videos are very good. I think that you can solve the problem of overeating, by change your Discovery by the new Mitsubishi L200 or the Toyota. 😊
I also changed the thermostat and I am not convinced it is good idea. I find it runs too cold. The setup was made to run quite hot, over 92C. I may fit the original stat and not to push the pedal in 6th at low speeds.
This vehicle does not have a catalizer so I can smell the exhaust gases when the engine us still cold at start up. With the original stat I did not notice any smell when the engine was running hot (>90C). Now with the alternative stat it smells a bit more at running temperature. I know the engine, injectors, turbo etc are working well.
Tropenthermostat in Verbindung mit dem größeren Ladeluftkühler von Nakatanenga oder Matzker sind die wohl besten Upgrades für 2.4 und 2.2TdCI um die Lebensdauer des Motors zu maximieren.
@@offtrackfamily Yes, was the best decision. I've been driving for 65,000km with the moderate performance increase from Nakatanenga with 150hp and 430Nm. Temperatures are significantly better than before, torque is already absolutely sufficient from 1200 rpm, consumption has fallen by 0.7-1.0l/100km on average. Before, I always had problems with the temperature, especially when driving over mountain passes or long motorway journeys in summer with a trailer. In addition, both 2.4 and 2.2TdCi benefit enormously from high-quality oil and a reduction in the interval to 10,000 km. I had a service in Macedonia last year and only got cheap oil, which ended up being almost 4 degrees more oil temperature.
I just watched your video. You did not mention if you used the 76°c thermostat or the 86°c thermostat. The original thermostat is 88°c. Land rover put the 88°c thermostat in to make the engine run hot so that it meets the environmental regulations (EURO Standards) if the engine runs cooler you have more unburnt gasses and toxins leaving the exhaust. This is also why an EGR valve is installed. Do you guys have the BAS Turbo upgrade? Because for me in my heavily loaded 2.4 puma 130. That made the biggest drop in temps, yes I measure the temps precisely also. Also I will add I have the Nugget airbox like you and I believe the Nugget airbox is restricting airflow along with the snorkel. I am about to change the airbox and do some before and after tests. But it's my belief that not enough air is able to get through and this is causing temps to rise prematurely. I have also been told that the rubber hose between the turbo and airbox is a restriction also and should be changed to silicone. BAS sells these. That will be another test.
Thermostat we have opens at 82. We also have a modified turbo, not the BAS. Would love to have feedback on your tests because we don't feel nugget stuff airbox restrains air.
300tdi doesn't go 130kph because that would be breaking the speed limit on UK motorways. I did do 420 miles in one day on motorways at 70mph without any problems.🙂
When you look at the fan shroud it is obvious that the extender wouldnt make any difference to cooling as the fan was already in a good positionn. You will also run hot with the weight you are carrying. Add to this speed you are driving. Its a landrover defender not a fast SUV! You spend most of your time on road so maybe going to all terrain tyres would also help. It will certainly help noise and fuel usage.
At the time, this extender was the thing so we followed what was recommended by other owners. Now with more experience, we see it differently. this is how we learn :) We have some of the necessary mods regarding our always heavy weight and being able to drive at a regular speed. Didn't hear a noticeable difference regarding ATs and either don't think it'll make a significant difference in fuel consumption. We had winter tires on every winter and fuel consumption didn't change significantly compared to mud tires.
Defenders should never run over 100 km/h. They aren't laid out for such high speed. Your LR has a camper roof and that means, the drag is higher than on standard vehicles without roof racks etc. On hot/warm summer periods or in hot climate region, you can reduce the glycol percentage of your coolant to 25:75. Water is a better coolant than glycol. I keep a motorway speed of 97 km/h. Not too much noise and 8 l diesel fuel for 100 km.
Don't agree with the speed limit. Might be true for older Defenders but not for a td4 like ours. We use it as an everyday car and drive it like a regular car since we have it. Having an upgraded transmission because of the setup we have, the only weakness I see now might be the LT230, it handles it well . Yes our fuel consumption is higher than yours certainly because of our heavy setup. Regarding the coolant as we have temperature variations where we live, we don't play with that. What are your recommendtion on that, at what outdoors temperature would you go for the 25:75 ?
I have the spacer sold by Nakatanenga since 2015 in my 90 without any problems, no tumbling at all. To be honest, your spacer looks quite abused indeed (5:44) so I wouldn't discount the possibility that your problem lies on the human side and not on the material side.
Don't agree with that, our Defender Puma goes well also at a regular speed on highways. Going up to 160km/h is a bad idea though, super scary and brakes will start to burn ;)
Maybe I understood differently but if you had overheating problems after remap I would think the remap wasn’t a good one, if I understood wrong forgive my comment
Always remember, you have a Ford engine from the Ford Transit !!!! I would never want a Ford engine in my life and so I bought the last BMW engine in the TD5 vintage 2016 and have never regretted it. Ok, ok, today I only drive a 300TDI, it's older but much better!
Don't agree with that as we never had any failure on the engine. It goes well for our way of enjoying our Defender, it handles well long distances at good speed and offroading. In any case we cannot do any engine swap in our country, so if we weren't happy with it we'd had to go for another vehicle.
It is a fine balance to figuring out what should be kept stock standard and what to upgrade. Love how you share all your good and bad experiences. We all have them.
Absolutely ! We're happy to share our experiences to help, it's the main purpose of this channel :)
Love y’all’s channel and rig. Her voice and accent are addicting lol.
🙌
Nice to have updates along the way. Helpful for fellows like us. Your bad experiences and researches makes it easier for us when looking for solutions 👍
Happy it helps 👍
Good info , yes often stock is better than modifying.
For this particular part, staying stock & without is indeed better
Forgot to mention that the MGB I owned back in the 60’s had very little problems even though I drove it like a eighteen year old that I was. That says a lot about English engineering.
I recently ran into this issue on my 1999 130. (Summertime) It was definitely just a clogged thermo. A good radiator flush and thermo change did great! The basics of diesel engines never change I think. Thank
You for the videos!
thanks for sharing :)
Cheers for the info. Love the channel for the information provided and watching you guys touring around the place. We have a 2013 Defender 130 2.2 with remap. We had a larger intercooler fitted when the remap was done. We are heavy and tow camper trailer always. Engine would occasionaly derate with turbo actuator fault, due to heat we think?? We would consistently see coolant temps of up to 102-106 degrees Celsius going uphill's with ambient temperatures of 35 degrees or more. The 130 would sit on 94-97 degrees consistently on level roads. We changed the thermostat that you guys suggested, didn't add spacer. Temps started lower at around 88 degrees as expected but still climbed when going uphill. Highest we had was 112 degrees on a 45 degree day. We always had to keep an eye on coolant temps and drive accordingly. Backing off on the throttle as the temps started to increase. We have just put a PWR radiator into the 130, 3 months ago and the difference is noticeable. Temps sit at 87 degrees consistently, where 94-97 would have been common. Highest we have seen is 97 degrees on a 35 degree day on the same hill we would seen 105 degrees previously. The larger PWR radiator has made a big difference in my opinion. The thermostat and intercooler would be helping to I would say. As a side note we never have overheated the engine on coolant temp causing it to derate. Been close but!!
We're heavy but dont tow so your situation is different and sharing this will certainly help other viewers that might have a similar setup as you have. Good to know the radiator mod did help and monitoring while driving is also a must I think.
I recently had some overheating on my TD5 on hills on long motorway journeys, turned out to be the viscous van. No issue on the flat but as soon as you got to a hill the fan wasn’t working properly so the engine was overheating. The fan would turn fine at idle but you have to test it by trying to stop the fan with a bunched rag, if you can stop it then your viscous coupling is shot and the fan needs replacing. Britannica Restorations have a very good video talking about viscous fans.
First thing to check in overheating defenders is the viscous fan.
Thanks for sharing that, adding the link to BR video : ua-cam.com/video/bW610FFME54/v-deo.html
Great advice, thank you. Can you advise what scan tool you show? I'm in Australia where very hot temps are not unusual but not found a good scan tool to stick on the dash of my 90 (which is my daily driver). Thanks, Jerry
We have the nanocom. You can check out this video ua-cam.com/video/HL25l-bL2bo/v-deo.html&feature=share7
Even the aftermarket grill can reduce cooling. I like it though, i might get one. The spot lights as well contribute to less cooling. 👍
👍
I’ve never had the opportunity to own a Land Rover of any kind. I did have an old 60’s Plymouth and spent a lot of money on it’s over heating problem because of the folks at the parts store. Finally I ran into an old timer that told me too leave the radiator cap loose. Couldn’t believe it actually worked!
Crazy how some old timers can get you out of it in a sec :)
I'm guessing that with the spacer, the weight of the fan is further away from the bearing & causing a torque on the bearing that it wasn't designed for. If you find you still need the spacer (if the cooling issue comes back), you may need to find a more heavy duty bearing. Been loving your videos ever since I found your channel to feed my Landy addiction. (Though my knowledge was more 300tdi & TD5.)
Happy you're enjoying! As we monitored no real temperature difference with or without the spacer we don't think this mod is worth a bearing upgrade
Fans are generally irrelevant at speed, they only make a difference when crawling or stationary. Changing to a lower thermostat isn't a good idea either as the engine will run cooler when not at high loads. Ideally you want it to run at the same temperature all the time, so the clearances of everything remain the same, reducing wear. Assuming there's no other issue causing overheating, it would be better to address this by increasing the capacity of the radiator. Also (I learned this the expensive way) strongly recommend having additional temperature sensors for the oil, block, exhaust, along with an audible alarm. If you lose coolant suddenly for some reason the coolant temp sensor will not work, so you need the other channels to notify you of the problem ASAP.
Could i ask you what brand of temperature sensor you would recommend?
Yip Agree. In South Africa there is a company who make the MadMan EMS... currently its at EMS3. monitors everything from coolant level to gearbox and transfer case oil temp and EGT etc
Seems right, we will certainly also add other sensor such as EGT. As our weight most often remains the same as the setup we have stays as it is even during our everyday life, the thermostat that runs cooler goes well.
Thanks for the great update. Could I ask what are you using to monitor the vitals of your engine. The display that you have mounted on your dash
It's a nanocom
Yes nanocom
If you have a press you can just replace the bearing not the whole casting. Had the same issue (no spacer just old) have a spacer and thermostat (needed when I see temps very regularly over 30 deg C.
Convert to electic fan(s)?
Saw revotech one, might be a future upgrade :)
The extended fan spacer probably caused the bearing failure, fan further out, more leverage on the bearing, bin it and put electric fans on. Move your spot lights, they are restricting air flow into the radiator grill, compounded by the winch front bumper you have fitted blocking air flow, low speed pulling with less flow through will cause overheating, check that the fins on the radiator are not blocked with mud blocking flow through the core. The remap will most likely run higher boost, compressing air heats it which is why you have an intercooler, fit a bigger intercooler to increase cooling, if the intake manifold is running hotter it will raise combustion temps and in turn engine temps, consider a bigger exhaust, more power means more exhaust gas, if its not flowing properly it will back up heat in the engine. You may also want to upgrade your oil cooler, oil traps heat in the engine which is why oil coolers are fitted.
When you remap an ecu people don't realise that you have to upgrade alot of other things to cope with the extra hp, clutches, gearboxes, prop shafts, drive shafts, diffs, suspension components and even wheel bearings all have to cope with the extra stresses involved, usually results in lower service life for parts concerned, your fan bearing is an example of this. Hope this helps!!!!!!
It'll certainly help, thanks for sharing. And yes when modifying to a remap as much as modifying to a camper setup or a lift, some other mods and maybe more maintenances are required
What is that display unit you are using, with all the engine info?
Nanocom
What temp read are you using please ?
Mainly with obdII and torque pro app
Thank you for another great video. I too had a "spacer" for the viscous fan on my 90 2.4. I just went to find it from my old spares pile and have it in my hand. Mine was bought by a "land rover mechanic" from a "land rover parts Company" Its made out of aluminum seems bigger than yours, and I had a different issue. Measuring in it now (excluding threads) edge to edge it measures 60mm, how big was yours? Mine, positioned the fan very close to the radiator and during a very steep obstacle that went up and down and up. The fan managed to hit my radiator and made holes in it. There was a "whipping" action from the up and down (it was very steep :). We patched the radiator with Pratley weld putty to get home, luckily, we were not too far from home. But as you say, this was on advice from the "experts" to bring the fan closer to the radiator, for better cooling. In conclusion there are probably some mods that are good, but I'm afraid not all are. I wish I had read an honest review like yours or mine prior to making the change.
That was a really bad experience and glad you were able to make it home with temporary fix. Yours was much longer, as ours was 2.5cm without threads. Yes we always need to keep in mind mods aren't especially beneficial and need to question them if another problem occurs.
I have a 2009 TDCi the same as yours with a remap. Same overheating problem. Agree can be bloody dangerous! I have replaced the thermostat that operates at a lower temperature also. Vehicle runs fine on its own fully loaded, but when you tow a loaded trailer up a decent hill it will happen again. i didnt bother with the fan spacer and am now going down the uprated intercooler track.
Good to know, thanks for sharing! Would be nice to have an update if the intercooler upgrade helps.
I also have overheating issues since my tuning sometimes when going uphill. Mainly in Summer, but also had them in Winter too...mounted the Fan-Spacer you had, but still the same Problem 😏
maybe should remove that spacer and see for the other useful mods for clearing this issue
@@offtrackfamily yes, i'm not sure at the moment...maybe there is a small hole in the exhaust manifold. This can also cause problems...
@@stefanpalfi504 best to check one thing at a time to solve properly the issue. If you think it's this, might want to start with this.
Do I get it right? The temp normally is between 78 and 88 C° , on average 82°C? What is the max temp you reached on hill climbing fully loaded or digging through soft sand? Can you read the oil temp as well? What brand and model is the OBD dongel, guess BT connected the mobile app, pls? Perhaps, I upgrade my 2.4 TDCi Transit Puma in my Camping Car (2008) , which runs still fine, after replacing head gasket at 4TSD km ( now 110TKM). Our 109 S3 (1984), 200TDi swap, runs hot under load, but this may be due to the TD5 intercooler in front of the radiator, which is the oil-water combined one. Ventilation is done by a Kenlowe 2-stage sucker.
Puma engine will stop at 117 C, we avoid going up to 100 C which is already very hot. You can still overheat if driving up hill in 6th and fully loaded, staying in 5th gear can help. OBD is cheap one from Amazon and app is Torque Pro but we now mainly use nanocom to monitor while driving.
@offtrackfamilyThanks for the quick Response. Heinz
Hi. Your videos are very good. I think that you can solve the problem of overeating, by change your Discovery by the new Mitsubishi L200 or the Toyota. 😊
sure we'd had other problems too ;)
That's why you must get rid of the Defender 😊.
I also changed the thermostat and I am not convinced it is good idea. I find it runs too cold. The setup was made to run quite hot, over 92C. I may fit the original stat and not to push the pedal in 6th at low speeds.
did you notice other issues because you feel it runs too cold?
This vehicle does not have a catalizer so I can smell the exhaust gases when the engine us still cold at start up. With the original stat I did not notice any smell when the engine was running hot (>90C). Now with the alternative stat it smells a bit more at running temperature. I know the engine, injectors, turbo etc are working well.
👍👍👍
🙌👍
Tropenthermostat in Verbindung mit dem größeren Ladeluftkühler von Nakatanenga oder Matzker sind die wohl besten Upgrades für 2.4 und 2.2TdCI um die Lebensdauer des Motors zu maximieren.
Have you done these two modifications?
@@offtrackfamily
Yes, was the best decision. I've been driving for 65,000km with the moderate performance increase from Nakatanenga with 150hp and 430Nm. Temperatures are significantly better than before, torque is already absolutely sufficient from 1200 rpm, consumption has fallen by 0.7-1.0l/100km on average. Before, I always had problems with the temperature, especially when driving over mountain passes or long motorway journeys in summer with a trailer. In addition, both 2.4 and 2.2TdCi benefit enormously from high-quality oil and a reduction in the interval to 10,000 km. I had a service in Macedonia last year and only got cheap oil, which ended up being almost 4 degrees more oil temperature.
That is the thermostat for a 1.8 Freelander. I did the same mod when I had a V8 Discovery.
I just watched your video. You did not mention if you used the 76°c thermostat or the 86°c thermostat. The original thermostat is 88°c. Land rover put the 88°c thermostat in to make the engine run hot so that it meets the environmental regulations (EURO Standards) if the engine runs cooler you have more unburnt gasses and toxins leaving the exhaust. This is also why an EGR valve is installed.
Do you guys have the BAS Turbo upgrade? Because for me in my heavily loaded 2.4 puma 130. That made the biggest drop in temps, yes I measure the temps precisely also.
Also I will add I have the Nugget airbox like you and I believe the Nugget airbox is restricting airflow along with the snorkel. I am about to change the airbox and do some before and after tests. But it's my belief that not enough air is able to get through and this is causing temps to rise prematurely.
I have also been told that the rubber hose between the turbo and airbox is a restriction also and should be changed to silicone. BAS sells these. That will be another test.
Thermostat we have opens at 82. We also have a modified turbo, not the BAS. Would love to have feedback on your tests because we don't feel nugget stuff airbox restrains air.
Never had any overheating in the past 14 years with the mighty 300tdi ! 😁
I'm certain of that as much as you might never have driven heavily loaded at 130km/h for long hours on the highway 😜
@@offtrackfamily 300tdi doesn't go 130 :)
@aryesXNA was implied in my answer ;)
300tdi doesn't go 130kph because that would be breaking the speed limit on UK motorways.
I did do 420 miles in one day on motorways at 70mph without any problems.🙂
When you look at the fan shroud it is obvious that the extender wouldnt make any difference to cooling as the fan was already in a good positionn. You will also run hot with the weight you are carrying. Add to this speed you are driving. Its a landrover defender not a fast SUV! You spend most of your time on road so maybe going to all terrain tyres would also help. It will certainly help noise and fuel usage.
At the time, this extender was the thing so we followed what was recommended by other owners. Now with more experience, we see it differently. this is how we learn :) We have some of the necessary mods regarding our always heavy weight and being able to drive at a regular speed. Didn't hear a noticeable difference regarding ATs and either don't think it'll make a significant difference in fuel consumption. We had winter tires on every winter and fuel consumption didn't change significantly compared to mud tires.
👍
👍
It's a LR. It's a living, breathing thing with a mind of its own. Good summary though. 👍
😄👍
Defenders should never run over 100 km/h. They aren't laid out for such high speed. Your LR has a camper roof and that means, the drag is higher than on standard vehicles without roof racks etc. On hot/warm summer periods or in hot climate region, you can reduce the glycol percentage of your coolant to 25:75. Water is a better coolant than glycol. I keep a motorway speed of 97 km/h. Not too much noise and 8 l diesel fuel for 100 km.
Don't agree with the speed limit. Might be true for older Defenders but not for a td4 like ours. We use it as an everyday car and drive it like a regular car since we have it. Having an upgraded transmission because of the setup we have, the only weakness I see now might be the LT230, it handles it well . Yes our fuel consumption is higher than yours certainly because of our heavy setup. Regarding the coolant as we have temperature variations where we live, we don't play with that. What are your recommendtion on that, at what outdoors temperature would you go for the 25:75 ?
After 23 years of ownership, I find your advice spot on . I have covered thousands of kms using this principle with terrible reliability.
Terrific reliability, dam that spell check ✔️
😊
🙌
I think the problem is the viscous balancing of the fan clutch.
I have the spacer sold by Nakatanenga since 2015 in my 90 without any problems, no
tumbling at all. To be honest, your spacer looks quite abused indeed (5:44) so I wouldn't discount the possibility that your problem lies on the human side and not on the material side.
Dragging those tyre's on a highway makes engine work twice as hard unless is raining... they are not ment for highway speeds...
Don't agree with that, our Defender Puma goes well also at a regular speed on highways. Going up to 160km/h is a bad idea though, super scary and brakes will start to burn ;)
Maybe I understood differently but if you had overheating problems after remap I would think the remap wasn’t a good one, if I understood wrong forgive my comment
Always remember, you have a Ford engine from the Ford Transit !!!!
I would never want a Ford engine in my life and so I bought the last BMW engine in the TD5 vintage 2016 and have never regretted it. Ok, ok, today I only drive a 300TDI, it's older but much better!
Don't agree with that as we never had any failure on the engine. It goes well for our way of enjoying our Defender, it handles well long distances at good speed and offroading. In any case we cannot do any engine swap in our country, so if we weren't happy with it we'd had to go for another vehicle.
Get a 300tdi.
Un véhicule comme ça ne devrait jamais chauffer normalement 🔥🔥👎👎😡😡
C est vrai mais on fait avec et trouve une solution durable 👍🏼