Silverado Intermittant Electrical Issues Part 2
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- Опубліковано 30 січ 2024
- Its the next day with this 2018 Silverado and we are gonna find the bad connection that I apparently touched to hard and fixed in the first video here • 2018 Silverado Electri...
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#topdon #diagnostics #Picoscope #autorepair - Авто та транспорт
One of the best tools I have found was a 3 piece set of fine abrasive tweezers that allow me to get into connectors to clean off that Fretted oxidation layer. Thanks for taking us on this diagnostic trip.
Jake you do alot showing us all tricks of the trade-many thanks keep up the good work 💯
Clearest explanation of terminal fretting that I’ve heard. Now I understand how it hurts the connection…
I've learned about terminal fretting. My pockets learned about it too. There's that story long ago that i've kept changing and changing Fuel pumps. 3 or 4 i don't remember. These motors don't like voltage drop , and if they work for continuous times at lower voltage than they're intended to - they keep burning one after another. I kept checking everything i know of - fuel pump connector I've checked for terminal tension , i've checked for voltage drop by backprobing the connector while the car was running. Everything was okay. But that darn fretting "secretly" dropped the voltage from the MALE PIN ON THE OUTSIDE of the fuel pump to the inside wires that connect to the motor , you know the 2 wires that are in the fuel pump module and connect directly to the motor. The year was 2012 and the car was Jaguar X-type , the one that must drop the fuel reservoir in order to change the pump. I've learned a lot.😔
To clean the female terminal, I run a file crossways over an old male terminal from a junk connector. I find the scratches help to clean it out better. Keep up the good work. Excellent content.😎
I would use an incandescent test light as a continuity tester. Maybe an 250 milliamp test light. What a test light does is it not only checks continuity but it stress tests the circuit, see if it can handle a load. If you would have used a continuity test light the circuit on the weak corroded junction would have been broken. An ohm meter wouldn't have brought it to light but a test light would.
Interesting Diagnosis jake.
I would say that. This was a
Factory Error.. 9:09 a lapscope
Would be my everyday go Tool.. because its a Vase time saver.
Vehicle has gone advanced these days!. Don't listen to what people will always say!
Dang, that was amazing troubleshooting. 👍
Hindsight is 20/20 👍 Good thing you noticed it when you were manipulating the junction box. I'll remember the lab scope on my next one. Thanks!
Awesome man i myself am learning the diagnostic part of being a great automotive technician.
Thanks.
Good fix Jake. Intermittents are so much fun!
Thanks for sharing fretting cleaning tips. Definitely something we see a lot of. Saving this for future reference to share.
Great diagnoses Jake! Loved the way you worked it out with the ohm meter! Definitely shows how the oscilloscope can make a big difference in the diagnostic world. Just wiggling suspect connectors and watching the scope would get you there faster and make you feel more confident in your diag.
Thanks for another awesome Video and I look forward to future content!
The damaged terminal must be immersed in a solution of ammonia for 10 minutes. Then, rinse with anything. The result is great.
Try to do this, if necessary... I'm waiting for your assessment for this method :)
Jake thanks for the explanation. Guess I wasn’t to from from the cause. I learned about fretting many years ago in Naval Aviation Tech School. Speaking of weird repairs I have a 99 EXL Accord 66K miles that had a slight slip between first and second only on initial drive . There are 3 very fine filters on shift solenoids A & B that everyone said too check along with 3 very small Orings. I checked the solenoids for the correct ohms and functionally checked them numerous times to make sure they weren’t hanging up. The filters were perfectly clean but I changed the O rings reassembled the unit and it’s like brand new. So many videos I watch they clean the filters and use the old o rings. Working with O rings my entire life they are there for a reason. Anyway just some info if you pull the solenoid apart change the O rings. Well that’s my tip of the day Lol. Hope the blisters on everyone’s feet have healed. 😊. Artie Jake what’s the terminology of the terminal . Oh I also used Deoxit 👍
I'm pretty sure you have a Snapon scope. This might be a use case for the graphing ohms function. You can leave the battery unhooked and still have a quick response ohmmeter. I've used it with great success on those pesky front abs harnesses in the early 2k's front pinning at the module. Great vid, thanks for posting!
Yes a graphing ohm meter would work pretty much as good as a scope would.
Good conclusion jake.thanks for sharing.
Deoxit is awesome stuff - been using it for decades. The D100 is pricey, but you don't even use a whole drop on a connector. If you have green fuzzies, you can see the D100 attack it as it foams up and dissolves everything. Leaves a protective coating as well.
What a great find. Great diag.
yep the scope and "do the wiggle watch for squiggle" however since you wanted a diy'er version i might suggest a cheap analog meter with the needle movement. since their sample rate is continuous the needle movement will be easy to see. wally world has them for under$20.00. anyone ever seen or tested can signals to see how many milliamps or microamps they are? never seen a spec but it cant be much.
The 2.5v bias is 42 milliamps by ohms law to make a full loop.
Looks like from all of those connectors you have entered the abyss
Great Job Boss!!
good job Jake
Well done 👍
Another fine video Jake. It's hard to beat Deoxit; I use it on radios etc.
great diag, having the same sort of intermittent problem 2015 yukon , gauges dead, ton of comm DTC's , when car is functioning there are no DTC's, will start with remote but will not start from the push button, will put the scope on it and try what you have done here
The deoxit you and Ivan use so liberally is $50 a can in Canada, and Staballant is 100 for a small bottle.
Good job 👍
What you are doing is very similar to burnishing relay contacts to improve conduction.
Execellent video sir
Terminal fretting was a big problem with 90's GM ABS connectors. Tech would diagnose bad abs/wheel bearing. Change it and fixed for a few months. The act of unplugging and plugging in new sensor scuffed terminal. Then the enviable comeback and bearing is blamed and is warrantied out. Then 2 months later, same thing. Then different tech gets it and diagnosis a bad pigtail and fixes it for good.
for me dielec grease is a problem it create intermittent issue
i seen so many intermittent problem cause by that
always wash it out and problem solve
Nice another one fixed and shipped. I saw the short on the radio issue too.
Have you ever used those tweezers that have abrasive on the end? I have been looking at those and I think they would have been perfect to clean that contact without taking the junction box apart.
Yeah they would have been good on this one to use. I ended up scraping it off with a jeweler file just called se I wasn’t confident in the qtip and solvent.
Great diagnosis Jake. Most people are not going to have the patience to find that. I wish stabilant 22 was only $20. I think I paid $65 or more for mine. I've seen some of it for almost $100.
Wow I didn’t know it had gone up that much
Nice find most would have just shipped it send it down the road Almost like engineering resistance CHEERS
Would the OHM Meter have worked on the BEEP Continuity Mode? When you went from 1K ohm to 0.2 ohm, would the meter BEEP and problem area found? Thank you for the few video series, I marked this up as extra special in my private custom library, cheers.
That’s a tricky question. The way a continuity meter works is it actually will load a circuit a little bit. In a fretting condition it could send enough power through your cause it to burn through the fretting and make connection again.
I wonder if the flickering dome lights are a result of aftermarket LED bulbs.
Nope. It’s shown in the short that I uploaded today also.
👍👍
Jake list the contact cleaner in your store I’ll purchase it along with some other goodies. 👍
I’ll add them tonight
The theft light I think because someone disabled the untitheft from engine ecu by hp tuner
Someone replaced the bcm and didn’t do something right with the immo learn. I got it off be reprogramming it and relearning the keys to it.
Time consuming work, to test terminals one by one, Jake! Agree, it's a lesson, to keep the scope on, while touching a problematic network circuit! Almost jeweler type repair. Flickering dome lights could be another case of fretting or a loose ground wire. Could be very interesting if you diagnose the radio on camera, but your final comment makes believe you didn't have a chance to do it.
I have a short video on the other issues including the flashing lights
@@autodiagyt OK, Thanks! Will be looking forward to it 🙂
Blows my mind how people make out 20.00 to be so expensive it's actual 50.00 for a bottle of stabilitin 22
Yeah it's gone up a lot since the last time I looked at it.
That big connection box why they don’t just put male pins on the plugs
Because of how circuits need to be routed to different harnesses. You would have a lot of smaller connectors
🤣🤣🤣 anit that always tge way with this kind of fault last plug you look in is the one you find the issue with . and it’s always the most pain in the butt to get to
Damn!
I was waiting to be first...
Oh well!😂
Typical gm quality these days